People need to worry about consistent form, grip torque, and just good old practice more then they worry about a 400 or 300. I shot my old Hoyt on 64 pounds with 30” draw and 400 spine arrows for years and it shot great. 284fps. Shot competition and hunted with that same setup I just swapped between scope and pins and stabilizers. 99.999% of the population can’t tell a bit of difference in the spine. A properly tuned bow will shoot almost any arrow. Ive got a rx8 ultra and a lift 33. I’ve experimented with both on 31.5” draw length 62 pounds and they’ll tear the same bullet hole with a 400 (380 grain) down to a 340 (458) grain. Practice 2-3 times a week for close to an hour (preferably longer) and all these made up problems will go away
Was shooting a 350 spine and switched to a 300 spine. Cut them to 25.5” and they may be closer to a 250 spine now. 175 grains up front for total arrow weight of 400 grains and I’ve never had arrows fly better.
Interesting video for sure. I’m wondering if I need to switch to 400 spine arrows. I’m currently shooting 500 spine 28” long 100 grain points. My bow is an Elite energy 35 set at 50 lbs 28” draw length. Both Victory spine chart and archer’s advantage tells me I’m at optimum spine
I’m starting to believe that the spine charts are out of date and need to be updated with current bow models. I’m thinking a lot of guys are under-spined and would benefit from stepping up one spine. Everyone is so worried about speed though that they don’t want the extra 30 grains slowing them down.
400's were too soft....a better bet would've been to compare 340's and 300's. I bet ya 340''s will group the best. You shouldn't have to re-tune if all you change is spine.....stiff enough is stiff enough. Tuning is simply to get the powerstroke directly behind the shaft.
Yes and no, changing spines will require a little bit of tweaking to get it just right. If your bow is tuned well, it will shoot another spine decently, but to get the most out of it will require a little bit of tinkering.
People need to worry about consistent form, grip torque, and just good old practice more then they worry about a 400 or 300. I shot my old Hoyt on 64 pounds with 30” draw and 400 spine arrows for years and it shot great. 284fps. Shot competition and hunted with that same setup I just swapped between scope and pins and stabilizers. 99.999% of the population can’t tell a bit of difference in the spine. A properly tuned bow will shoot almost any arrow. Ive got a rx8 ultra and a lift 33. I’ve experimented with both on 31.5” draw length 62 pounds and they’ll tear the same bullet hole with a 400 (380 grain) down to a 340 (458) grain. Practice 2-3 times a week for close to an hour (preferably longer) and all these made up problems will go away
So…..just to clarify, your argument is that ANY bow can shot ANY arrow and setting up gear properly has ZERO affect on your ability to hit the middle….thats an interesting position to take. As for the 99.999%- I consider myself to be very average and I can see the difference. Does that mean I’m part of the 0.001%!?!
Target archers generally group tune. The best shooters I have met don’t paper or bare shaft. They just group tune at distance. Hunting is a completely different subject, because you can get away with a lot with a field point.
There’s a hundred ways to skin a cat, it seems like every pro has their own method. Group tuning is probably the most advanced way to tune, and requires a high level of skill. I don’t possess that skill….😢 I’m hoping if I keep at it I’ll get to that level some day.
@@willc3384 there are plenty of people who argue that’s it’s unnecessary, but it’s a simple way to get things headed the right direction. But I fully agree that it’s not the end of the tuning process.
People need to worry about consistent form, grip torque, and just good old practice more then they worry about a 400 or 300. I shot my old Hoyt on 64 pounds with 30” draw and 400 spine arrows for years and it shot great. 284fps. Shot competition and hunted with that same setup I just swapped between scope and pins and stabilizers. 99.999% of the population can’t tell a bit of difference in the spine. A properly tuned bow will shoot almost any arrow. Ive got a rx8 ultra and a lift 33. I’ve experimented with both on 31.5” draw length 62 pounds and they’ll tear the same bullet hole with a 400 (380 grain) down to a 340 (458) grain. Practice 2-3 times a week for close to an hour (preferably longer) and all these made up problems will go away
Well said and thank you. I needed to hear this.
How far are you shooting?
50 yds
Was shooting a 350 spine and switched to a 300 spine. Cut them to 25.5” and they may be closer to a 250 spine now. 175 grains up front for total arrow weight of 400 grains and I’ve never had arrows fly better.
I’m glad you found something that works awesome!
Interesting video for sure.
I’m wondering if I need to switch to 400 spine arrows.
I’m currently shooting 500 spine 28” long 100 grain points.
My bow is an Elite energy 35 set at 50 lbs 28” draw length.
Both Victory spine chart and archer’s advantage tells me I’m at optimum spine
I’m starting to believe that the spine charts are out of date and need to be updated with current bow models. I’m thinking a lot of guys are under-spined and would benefit from stepping up one spine. Everyone is so worried about speed though that they don’t want the extra 30 grains slowing them down.
@@mat_in_texas I ran the 400 spine on archer’s advantage and it shows marginal stiff for the spine so I’m going to give that a try.
@@georgemyers6518 I’m learning that being a little over is much better than a little under.
400's were too soft....a better bet would've been to compare 340's and 300's. I bet ya 340''s will group the best. You shouldn't have to re-tune if all you change is spine.....stiff enough is stiff enough. Tuning is simply to get the powerstroke directly behind the shaft.
Yes and no, changing spines will require a little bit of tweaking to get it just right. If your bow is tuned well, it will shoot another spine decently, but to get the most out of it will require a little bit of tinkering.
Why not try 340
Because I had 300’s
Just use 3 vanes...
People need to worry about consistent form, grip torque, and just good old practice more then they worry about a 400 or 300. I shot my old Hoyt on 64 pounds with 30” draw and 400 spine arrows for years and it shot great. 284fps. Shot competition and hunted with that same setup I just swapped between scope and pins and stabilizers. 99.999% of the population can’t tell a bit of difference in the spine. A properly tuned bow will shoot almost any arrow. Ive got a rx8 ultra and a lift 33. I’ve experimented with both on 31.5” draw length 62 pounds and they’ll tear the same bullet hole with a 400 (380 grain) down to a 340 (458) grain. Practice 2-3 times a week for close to an hour (preferably longer) and all these made up problems will go away
So…..just to clarify, your argument is that ANY bow can shot ANY arrow and setting up gear properly has ZERO affect on your ability to hit the middle….thats an interesting position to take.
As for the 99.999%-
I consider myself to be very average and I can see the difference. Does that mean I’m part of the 0.001%!?!
Target archers generally group tune. The best shooters I have met don’t paper or bare shaft. They just group tune at distance. Hunting is a completely different subject, because you can get away with a lot with a field point.
There’s a hundred ways to skin a cat, it seems like every pro has their own method. Group tuning is probably the most advanced way to tune, and requires a high level of skill. I don’t possess that skill….😢
I’m hoping if I keep at it I’ll get to that level some day.
@@mat_in_texas tbh, same here. I feel weird if I don't at least paper tune first with my target setup.👍
@@willc3384 there are plenty of people who argue that’s it’s unnecessary, but it’s a simple way to get things headed the right direction. But I fully agree that it’s not the end of the tuning process.