I tried your spline test as you professionally demonstrated. I shot a 400 axis and couldn’t obtain a bullet hole than switched to a 340 axis and got a bullet hole with my line at the bottom. Thank you.
I just did this test about 10 days ago with a dozen Gold Tip Hunter XT's 300 spine and had 12 bullet holes AMAZING 😜. After watching your 1st and 2nd videos on this arrow bend process this has changed the way I tune my arrows. Your results conform that as well. Great video, Brother 😉👊🇺🇸
I've experienced that if you put a little hot melt in the end of the shaft as well as on the insert, the bond will be stronger. If you only put it on the insert, the edge of the shaft will push most of it out and the bond won't be as strong. when you put some in the end of the shaft, the glue that is pushed out gets replaced by what you put in the end of the shaft. Just make sure you heat the end of the shaft so the glue is not set when you insert the insert. This is only from my experience so, there may be some debate about this. Thanks for the video by the way ❤.
I call it a win because your processing perfect arrow flight . First of twelve steps of maxing penetration . Troy Fowler aka Ranch Fairy Nock tuning concept brings awareness of why you should first spine test for accuracy , how ever you get there just get there. Great Video shows how shooting paper can teach perfect arrow flight .
Very informative videos. Thanks! I now run the bend test when building arrows, and have noticed a pretty crucial parameter. The straightness of the arrow makes a big difference as there is already crookedness built into the shaft. When I bend test shafts with .001 in straightness I get different results each time. For example, Easton X10s are almost impossible to bend test. Otherwise, the bending test is by far the easiest way to check where the spine is.
I find your discovery very interesting!!! I'm wondering if you happen to have then mounted broad heads to see if they shoot like the field points, or, is there even more diddling around to get them to shoot the same?
Getting them to tune through paper doesn’t mean broadheads will fly perfect. You’ll have to get outside and broadhead tune. This process makes broadhead tuning very easy. I’ve got a video about it on here too.
Used that hot melt for years with great results. Just clean out the carbon in the shaft. Plus I can heat it lightly and clock my broadhead to my liking. Cool video. I made an adapter for my Last Chance press for spine testing. 👍👍
Mat great video. I enjoy your testing and tinkering. If you later change to the heavier brass inserts, I am wondering if these paper results would change significantly. Thanks. JT
Thanks for stopping by! I’ve already applied this method to the heavier arrows for the MXR. When I swap this set of Warriors to the brass inserts, I’ll run all of them through the bend test again, but I’m not expecting to see any changes.
Hi. I have used hot melt glue and after a year the inserts come off my shaft in the target, which is not fun fishing it out. I used black eagle arrows and they specifically say not to use hmg. I also built a spine stiffness tester with a runout guage. I also free spin them and see if they have a heavy side. In my results the stiffness Guage is the hardest to use and the spinning was easiest and most arrows gave same stiff side on both tests. I like your method better and I'll set that up on my next dozen arrows. I wonder how the sanlida arrows spin test and nock tune. I may get some of those to test at $85 for 2 dozen arrows it's the least expensive arrow on the market... all arrows but some eastons are made in China anyway...
This is absolutely changing the way I am going to tune new arrows, as well as stripping the vanes and tuning my old arrows this way. Thank you! How do you like the Modsaw, and how long have you had it?
I always use the Bohning blue,never had a problem. To take them out just put the points in a cup of boiling water for a minute or two,that's enough to take them out.
Just some thoughts......Going off the fact that the bow tries to first bend the arrow into a U shape: If you put stiff spine at the top (effective weak spine at the bottom) then like you say this will aid/facilitate the arrow taking this first bend. Now if you were on the stiff side with your arrow spine, this might be a good way to get the arrow to bend to its fullest extent thereby dynamically softening it. But if you were potentially on the soft side it might make sense to put the stiff spine line on the bottom. The arrow would then conversely resist this first bending force so that its down range oscillations would be smaller. ie dynamically stiffening it. You would probably need to make rest adjustments in the vertical plane for each of these spine positions because it would have to affect nock travel. Think of it as a way to adjust dynamic spine without changing any components on the arrow or settings on the bow like poundage. The former would surely allow broader oscillations than the latter because you've set the weakest line to facilitate the bend that the bow is putting into the arrow. Victory themselves say 12 oclock or 6 oclock is fine for where you set the arrow, suggesting that you really just need to experiment with your gear. Nick Fisher from AAE sets his VAP's with the stiff line down. The type of rest would have an impact too. eg a limb driven dropaway has arrow contact for far longer than a QAD cable driven. I know with my QAD, nock lows can be harder than usual to dial out compared to a hamskea and I'm thinking that flipping the spine in the vertical plane might be well worth playing around with.
Guys that shoot blade rests say they align it with the stiff side down like your explaining. They say it helps with blade clearance. Honestly, I don’t think it matters which way it’s aligned, just as long as they’re all doing the same thing, they all fly the same way.
So, what do you mean when you are referring to nock up? So essentially you mark the opposite side of the slope of the bend. For example, it is marked on the side that doesn’t have the bent carbon towards. Is this because you are reflecting under pressure it bends and curves out, the non curved is the weak spot? Then you mentioned you want the Knox up? But also referred to wanting the bend down. So the indicator of the weak side is down? Or the curve is down. So, to simplify it, the slit needs to correspond with the line? Sorry I’m over thinking it. And just learning.
All good friend. Asking questions is how we figure stuff out. I actually have another video that I go into depth on how to do this. This was more demonstration of the paper tuning. Go check it out. It should answer most of your questions.
So i just built this and tried this method. I think that there is too much slop in the drive head of the bar clamp. I had 3 trouble arrows out of 9 so 6 where bullet holes. These arrows have vanes on them as well. Im trying to come up with a way to tighten up that fitment of the pipe and the head that moved to squeezethe arrow.
I think it's more just wanting to see the complete build process and if anymore adjusting takes place. That's what I was wondering anyway. I'll check out the broadhead tune video it probably explains some of it.
@@mat_in_texas I assumed but I figured I would check first, this is a fabulous process that saves a whole lot of time , and has a homeloader that knows 800/1000 rounds months we all know time is limited so and you buy the equipment and develop process to complete the task in math, obviously I will follow up make a paper but this seems to be in second process .
So my clamps got delivered today already had a 4 foot pipe, already tested it on six arrows that I had sitting around, yes as well noticed testing that laying it horizontally versus hanging it vertically there is a difference, more of a consistent flex vertically so once again glad I came across your videos this is definitely a timesaver, still will run through paper and not to but this is gonna save me so much time
HY SIR.First of all thank you for good work.Since I have seen that with one of the arrows you shot did have small problems I wanted to test why was that .I did buy 12 arrows and started to straight test them and I was preaty suprised that quality of the arrows are so gut for the price of them and offcorse there is sometimes an arrow or two that are just not that great and that should be the problem why did the one arrow flyed little bit wired . so from 12 arrows I got 1x arrow with straitness .000 2xarrows with straitness .001 3xarrows with straitness .002 2x arrows with straitness .003 2xarrows with straitness .004 and 2xarrows straitness .010 and my opinion is that arrow with not so good tolereneces has caused small problem in paper test.but realy this is great results for the price wee are paying for this arrows
There was a channel Samual White that used the cheapest Wallyworld arrows and just nocked tuned them. Shot amazing groups at 100 yards. But when a guy does this he’s running out of excuses, lol. 👍👍
Mr. John Davis explain how it goes out the window, your arrow is going to flex no matter whether it's fletched or not the strong side/weak side of your spine is its DNA if you will that does not change once Fletching is added , now flight path might change so paper tuning is definitely a must follow up but your spine is your spine, please correct me if I'm wrong I'm always willing to learn
@Aldocello1 yes your right with your response I should of re worded my statement better the tune changes from paper tuning bareshafts then paper tuning fletched shafts it's just easier to skip the step of bareshaft thru paper and just paper tune fletched arrows since that's how we all shoot arrows in the end anyways it's just a wasted step in my opinion
I dont know much, but try opening your grip. From the camera angle i can't tell, but it looks like you are letting your fingers rest on the front of the grip.
@@Lugnutz89 I relax my fingers which results in them closing slightly and resting on the front of the grip. I’m not applying any pressure whatsoever though.
Honestly with any amount of hearing loss (most people past a certain age and probably ALL hunters past a certain age) any background music just makes it harder to follow the words. In my opinion when your talking no music is best. Good vids, thanks for making them.
Spend more time shooting and less time fiddling with arrows and tunes. You'll see way better results. Paper tunes are just a starting point and mean nothing in terms of accuracy.
Tired it, 5 out of 6 bare shaft arrows were spot on through paper, one nock had to be rotated maybe 20°. Thanks Matt 👍
Awesome!
I tried your spline test as you professionally demonstrated. I shot a 400 axis and couldn’t obtain a bullet hole than switched to a 340 axis and got a bullet hole with my line at the bottom. Thank you.
@@jimmer308 Check out my video on Weak Arrow Spine, that might be interesting for you too
I just did this test about 10 days ago with a dozen Gold Tip Hunter XT's 300 spine and had 12 bullet holes AMAZING 😜. After watching your 1st and 2nd videos on this arrow bend process this has changed the way I tune my arrows. Your results conform that as well. Great video, Brother 😉👊🇺🇸
That’s awesome to hear!
I've experienced that if you put a little hot melt in the end of the shaft as well as on the insert, the bond will be stronger. If you only put it on the insert, the edge of the shaft will push most of it out and the bond won't be as strong. when you put some in the end of the shaft, the glue that is pushed out gets replaced by what you put in the end of the shaft. Just make sure you heat the end of the shaft so the glue is not set when you insert the insert. This is only from my experience so, there may be some debate about this. Thanks for the video by the way ❤.
I call it a win because your processing perfect arrow flight . First of twelve steps of maxing penetration . Troy Fowler aka Ranch Fairy Nock tuning concept brings awareness of why you should first spine test for accuracy , how ever you get there just get there. Great Video shows how shooting paper can teach perfect arrow flight .
Very informative videos. Thanks! I now run the bend test when building arrows, and have noticed a pretty crucial parameter. The straightness of the arrow makes a big difference as there is already crookedness built into the shaft. When I bend test shafts with .001 in straightness I get different results each time. For example, Easton X10s are almost impossible to bend test. Otherwise, the bending test is by far the easiest way to check where the spine is.
@@jimmyhinterlach9485 You are correct. This helps most with the more “affordable” arrows. The higher tolerance arrows are more expensive for a reason.
I find your discovery very interesting!!! I'm wondering if you happen to have then mounted broad heads to see if they shoot like the field points, or, is there even more diddling around to get them to shoot the same?
Getting them to tune through paper doesn’t mean broadheads will fly perfect. You’ll have to get outside and broadhead tune. This process makes broadhead tuning very easy. I’ve got a video about it on here too.
Used that hot melt for years with great results. Just clean out the carbon in the shaft. Plus I can heat it lightly and clock my broadhead to my liking. Cool video. I made an adapter for my Last Chance press for spine testing. 👍👍
What kind of adapter? I’d like to see it
@@mat_in_texas it’s just some wood blocks that shorten the gap between the horizontal arms. I use the wheel to gently squeeze the shaft.
@@timbow50 a bow press is on my short list.
No Press Needed. Just Press Down With 2 Blocks of Wood. Fast and Easy.
Cool idea. Can't wait to try it out.
I found this to be a very interesting and well presented video. Thank you for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Mat great video. I enjoy your testing and tinkering. If you later change to the heavier brass inserts, I am wondering if these paper results would change significantly. Thanks. JT
Thanks for stopping by! I’ve already applied this method to the heavier arrows for the MXR. When I swap this set of Warriors to the brass inserts, I’ll run all of them through the bend test again, but I’m not expecting to see any changes.
Interesting video sir. Job well done.
Thank you
Thanks for the video! Good information!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video and trouble shooting. 🎯
Thank you
Hi. I have used hot melt glue and after a year the inserts come off my shaft in the target, which is not fun fishing it out. I used black eagle arrows and they specifically say not to use hmg. I also built a spine stiffness tester with a runout guage. I also free spin them and see if they have a heavy side. In my results the stiffness Guage is the hardest to use and the spinning was easiest and most arrows gave same stiff side on both tests. I like your method better and I'll set that up on my next dozen arrows. I wonder how the sanlida arrows spin test and nock tune. I may get some of those to test at $85 for 2 dozen arrows it's the least expensive arrow on the market... all arrows but some eastons are made in China anyway...
This is absolutely changing the way I am going to tune new arrows, as well as stripping the vanes and tuning my old arrows this way. Thank you! How do you like the Modsaw, and how long have you had it?
The modsaw is fantastic. Awesome do-all tool for an average guys. No frills, just gets stuff done. I couldn’t recommend it enough.
@@mat_in_texas heck yes! Stripped, bend tested 10 arrows and 10 bullet holes through paper followed all on the first shot. 🙌🙌
@@greenem23 Dude! That’s awesome!
Great video, does this system also work on bolts, I realize you might use a little more force to make the bolt bend.
@@danlacourciere898 never tried it on bolts. 🤷♂️
@@mat_in_texas Thank you for answering me back, I think that I will try it anyway, thanks again.
@@danlacourciere898 let me know if it works. I’ve had others ask, but I’ve never shot a crossbow so I have no idea.
I always use the Bohning blue,never had a problem. To take them out just put the points in a cup of boiling water for a minute or two,that's enough to take them out.
Good to hear
Just some thoughts......Going off the fact that the bow tries to first bend the arrow into a U shape: If you put stiff spine at the top (effective weak spine at the bottom) then like you say this will aid/facilitate the arrow taking this first bend. Now if you were on the stiff side with your arrow spine, this might be a good way to get the arrow to bend to its fullest extent thereby dynamically softening it. But if you were potentially on the soft side it might make sense to put the stiff spine line on the bottom. The arrow would then conversely resist this first bending force so that its down range oscillations would be smaller. ie dynamically stiffening it. You would probably need to make rest adjustments in the vertical plane for each of these spine positions because it would have to affect nock travel. Think of it as a way to adjust dynamic spine without changing any components on the arrow or settings on the bow like poundage. The former would surely allow broader oscillations than the latter because you've set the weakest line to facilitate the bend that the bow is putting into the arrow. Victory themselves say 12 oclock or 6 oclock is fine for where you set the arrow, suggesting that you really just need to experiment with your gear. Nick Fisher from AAE sets his VAP's with the stiff line down. The type of rest would have an impact too. eg a limb driven dropaway has arrow contact for far longer than a QAD cable driven. I know with my QAD, nock lows can be harder than usual to dial out compared to a hamskea and I'm thinking that flipping the spine in the vertical plane might be well worth playing around with.
Guys that shoot blade rests say they align it with the stiff side down like your explaining. They say it helps with blade clearance. Honestly, I don’t think it matters which way it’s aligned, just as long as they’re all doing the same thing, they all fly the same way.
So, what do you mean when you are referring to nock up? So essentially you mark the opposite side of the slope of the bend. For example, it is marked on the side that doesn’t have the bent carbon towards. Is this because you are reflecting under pressure it bends and curves out, the non curved is the weak spot? Then you mentioned you want the Knox up? But also referred to wanting the bend down. So the indicator of the weak side is down? Or the curve is down. So, to simplify it, the slit needs to correspond with the line? Sorry I’m over thinking it. And just learning.
All good friend. Asking questions is how we figure stuff out. I actually have another video that I go into depth on how to do this. This was more demonstration of the paper tuning. Go check it out. It should answer most of your questions.
How does the bend test not introduce a permanent bend into the arrow?
So i just built this and tried this method. I think that there is too much slop in the drive head of the bar clamp. I had 3 trouble arrows out of 9 so 6 where bullet holes. These arrows have vanes on them as well. Im trying to come up with a way to tighten up that fitment of the pipe and the head that moved to squeezethe arrow.
If you have a bow press, that works really well too
Great video . fletch those arrows and shoot them through paper again and see what happens?
You think it will change?
I think it's more just wanting to see the complete build process and if anymore adjusting takes place. That's what I was wondering anyway. I'll check out the broadhead tune video it probably explains some of it.
I still buy the most expensive bows and arrows as well do this bend test as I have an archery addiction 😂🤣
It’s a fun, expensive, but fun addiction.
@@mat_in_texas can you do a bend test for recurve bows? As I also have an archery addiction😅
@@elbacon158 I believe so, just index the weak side away from the raiser and they will probably fly great.
you can use your bow press to do the same thing.
Yup, bow press works great!
So question , do this test before or after cutting arrows to length ?
Yes, you’ll want to have them cut to length and have the insert or point glued into the front
@@mat_in_texas I assumed but I figured I would check first, this is a fabulous process that saves a whole lot of time , and has a homeloader that knows 800/1000 rounds months we all know time is limited so and you buy the equipment and develop process to complete the task in math, obviously I will follow up make a paper but this seems to be in second process .
So my clamps got delivered today already had a 4 foot pipe, already tested it on six arrows that I had sitting around, yes as well noticed testing that laying it horizontally versus hanging it vertically there is a difference, more of a consistent flex vertically so once again glad I came across your videos this is definitely a timesaver, still will run through paper and not to but this is gonna save me so much time
seems interesting but hard to understand over the sound track.
@@stickboy6772 yup, I got a lot of similar feedback. I’ve since refrained from putting background music on my videos.
HY SIR.First of all thank you for good work.Since I have seen that with one of the arrows you shot did have small problems I wanted to test why was that .I did buy 12 arrows and started to straight test them and I was preaty suprised that quality of the arrows are so gut for the price of them and offcorse there is sometimes an arrow or two that are just not that great and that should be the problem why did the one arrow flyed little bit wired . so from 12 arrows I got 1x arrow with straitness .000 2xarrows with straitness .001 3xarrows with straitness .002 2x arrows with straitness .003 2xarrows with straitness .004 and 2xarrows straitness .010 and my opinion is that arrow with not so good tolereneces has caused small problem in paper test.but realy this is great results for the price wee are paying for this arrows
I Do Not Care For the "Blue" Glue. EASTON ARCHERY LOW TEMP HOT MELT is Great Stuff. Cool Tip in Water. Thanks For Sharing.
I’ve been told the glue that Iron Will sells is really good too.
There was a channel Samual White that used the cheapest Wallyworld arrows and just nocked tuned them. Shot amazing groups at 100 yards. But when a guy does this he’s running out of excuses, lol. 👍👍
Ya, I think I’ve watched those
This method can work but when adding fetching that goes out the window. Once Fletcher the paper tears change once again
Challenge accepted….
Mr. John Davis explain how it goes out the window, your arrow is going to flex no matter whether it's fletched or not the strong side/weak side of your spine is its DNA if you will that does not change once Fletching is added , now flight path might change so paper tuning is definitely a must follow up but your spine is your spine, please correct me if I'm wrong I'm always willing to learn
@Aldocello1 yes your right with your response I should of re worded my statement better the tune changes from paper tuning bareshafts then paper tuning fletched shafts it's just easier to skip the step of bareshaft thru paper and just paper tune fletched arrows since that's how we all shoot arrows in the end anyways it's just a wasted step in my opinion
How far are you from the paper ?
@@ernestroger3326 10-15 ft
Hey mat! Next time use plain hot glue sticks that are made for craft stuff. Much stronger than bohning blue
Noted
I concur , craft glue and much cheaper
This things legit!
It’s been working for me for years.
I dont know much, but try opening your grip. From the camera angle i can't tell, but it looks like you are letting your fingers rest on the front of the grip.
@@Lugnutz89 I relax my fingers which results in them closing slightly and resting on the front of the grip. I’m not applying any pressure whatsoever though.
@mat_in_texas I noticed that on the last video I watched about weak spine.
Great video, creepy music. Don't need that.
Thanks for the feed back. I used about half a dozen songs, which ones didn’t you like?
Honestly with any amount of hearing loss (most people past a certain age and probably ALL hunters past a certain age) any background music just makes it harder to follow the words. In my opinion when your talking no music is best. Good vids, thanks for making them.
I was legitimately waiting for the jump scare while watching. I scrolled through the comments because I knew someone had to feel the same way.
The excess glue. Make sure you save it. Cause you can still use it. Instead of throwing it away
🤦 I should have known that…
Spend more time shooting and less time fiddling with arrows and tunes. You'll see way better results. Paper tunes are just a starting point and mean nothing in terms of accuracy.
But fiddling is fun. You should try it sometime