I found the video very interesting and informative. Regarding your peeve about putting flats on the LNL bushings, I might offer this. One of the intentions to make operation easy is to have a bushing for every die. You would adjust the die once and then insert or remove it with a quick twist. This is beneficial for us for quick and easy operation, and it is beneficial for Hornady, because they can sell more bushings (a symbiotic relationship) however that first time that you are inserting a bushing is when you will have the issue, and to avoid that you can temporarily lock it on the die with or without the wrench and twist insert, then then loosen with the wrench for set-up. If you are ambitious you can lock and die on a bushing and trace the lock ring flats onto the bushing with a razor blade then grind in a vise, now you can insert dies with the lock ring wrench. Maybe you could do a video of that and send it to Hornady.
+Rollin Shultz Hi Rolin, believe me, I've tried that. The problem is that once you have the bushing locked in, then try to unfasten the lock ring with the wrench, the bushing turns with it and you're back to where you started. I can turn the bushing with my hand to get it locked well enough to adjust a die so it's not a big deal. My point in the video I suppose was that the bushing should have flats to begin with...without having to grind anything. I've been using that press for about 20 years so I'm well aware of the reasons for the bushings and the "symbiotic relationship" it creates. But there are several little details that Hornady could/should have designed a bit better with some of their products...that is one of them.
+HornadyLoader Cool, you have experience, I am just now putting my reloading station together. I am using a corner and two end pieces computer desk setup, because it is already there in my garage and it is free. It is surprisingly sturdy. I have some storage units with various size bins and dies sets for .40, .45 and .454 Casull. I need to figure out how I am going to organize the sizes so that all parts for a caliber are easy to find and set-up. I don't know if I'll use bins for that or like you did, use those screw driver holders. I also need to plan storage for bullets and I think bins are too flimsy for any volume of bullets, so any tips you have let me know. Do you have a video of your set-up. I am installing the LNL AP factory. Some things I still need to purchase before I can even get started: 1. A scale 2. A case trimmer and supporting tools. 3. I anticipate storing the powder and primers indoors somewhere during winter, to prevent issues from freezing weather. I am collecting multiple size casings from my gun range and may have a large amount of .223s and I am thinking about reforming them for 300AAC. Other than that I have a lot to learn and I will be here attending RUclips U. to get as much heads-up as possible.
+Rollin Shultz Hi Rolin, I have a video on RUclips titled "My Reloading Bench" that goes over all the stuff I have on the bench. I've changed the component storage layout a bit since the video was done and it's another one of those videos I did before upgrading my camera so the resolution isn't the best. Those die holders aren't screwdriver holders, they are actual die holders from Inline Fabrication and they're sized to fit the LNL bushings properly so they work great with Hornady Presses. However, I would suggest keeping the dies in the die boxes that they came with. If you use die holders like I have, then you have to be very conscientious about putting them back in the proper spot before pulling down more dies because some of them aren't marked for the caliber they're for and they can get mixed up easily. I would also store your powder indoors during the summer if you live in a humid environment. Here in Florida it's very humid during the summer and I worry that my powders will be affected if I store it outdoors. I also have videos on trimmers, scales, and powder measures, mostly Hornady products since that's what I have but there are many manufacturers who have similar products. Some not as good, some about the same, and some better.
A well produced instructional video on this product. I should like to point out, however, that not all crimps are round so some reloaders, especially new to reloading, may be confused and not think that it's crimped. Some cases have three point crimps and still need to be swaged.
Allen Lucas Good point Allen, all of my military brass has the round crimp so I didn't think about the point crimps. I'll have to annotate the video with that. Thanks!
Nice video informative like all the videos you put out. Just a though on my part. I would not bother with the stage 3 and 4 dies and to get around not having flats on the lock and load inserts I would just put the die part way in lock it in place then put the insert in with the help of the dies flat sides then complete the adjustments, just my thoughts on the subject all the best Robert McMillan.
Your comments on cleaning and maintaining the dies makes me want to see a video on that topic as well. I just got several sets of RCBS dies and I want to make sure I properly care for them. Also, how common are military crimps on 308 brass? I've only ever seen it on 5.56 brass, namely the ZQI brand they sold at Walmart for awhile.
grinc333 Hi grinc333, The .308 Winchester is basically the civilian version of the 7.62x51 NATO round, just like the .223 Remington is the civilian version of the 5.56 NATO. There are some differences and there are issues with using the 7.62x51 NATO in a rifle chambered for .308. Similarly, there are issues with using 5.56 NATO in a rifle chambered for .223. SAAMI considers it safe for a .308 rifle to fire 7.62, but firing a 5.56 in a rifle chambered for .223 is more problematic. So, just like you are more likely to see the military crimp on 5.56 and not .223, you are more likely to see the crimp on 7.62 and not .308. You should contact the manufacturer of your rifle before using 7.62 (or 5.56 for that matter). As far as a cleaning video, I might just do that although I doubt people would be interested in seeing me spray a die with Hornady One-Shot and wiping it down. Thanks for the question! Hornady Loader
HornadyLoader Does all reloading equipment need to be wiped and sprayed down before first use? For example, my Rock Chucker press and dies come a certain way from the factory and it almost makes me want to clean and oil the press first and clean the dies like how you recommended with the One Shot.
grinc333 I always use a cleaner/dry lube on all exposed metal parts, not just the dies. The ram, sub-plate, shell plates, shell holders, etc. It's a good idea to make sure your equipment remains rust free and operates smoothly. Many of the tolerances are very tight, like the ram for example, and even a light rust can interfere with the smooth operation of your press and other tools. I do the press and other tools about once a year, and the dies about every 6 months or so. On rotating joints, like the ram handle mechanism, I usually disassemble them and apply a light grease. Make sure you're not voiding any warranties before you do that though.
+parigott4 Hi, no, it just removes the crimp from the rim of the primer pocket and gives it a radiused edge. You still need to use your primer pocket uniformer, cleaner, etc. Thanks for watching!
Thank You for very nice video. Just received my Swage tool today. I didn't see in the comments of anyone having stuck cases in the swage tool. As you said I took my time and was very careful when setting up the tool. I have about 1000 rds of Lake City brass with the slotted crimps around the primer. These little slots make is just a little harder to set your correct swage. As I was running some brass I had several stick up inside the swage tool. Is this caused by too deep a swage setting? Or the slotted crimps around the primer?
+Steve9083 Hi Steve, I've never had a case get stuck, regardless of the type of crimp (round or slotted). I can see how setting the swage tool too deep into the primer pocket would cause a case to get stuck however. What you're trying to accomplish is to radius the edge of the primer pocket so you really don't need it to be very deep at all. If you are able to determine what is causing your issue, I'd be interested in hearing what happened. Thanks!
+HornadyLoader Thanks for the reply. I think all reloaders can relate to the fact that after a few 1000 rds of using what ever press we may own. We get used to the feel of when a primer goes in, the bullet is seated correctly etc. For those of us that are new to this swage FORGET ALL THAT. Hornadyloader is correct. It doesn't take much to swage with this new system. I was thinking in my head that I should feel that primer pocket expand just a little . Nope you don't feel anything. That brass is so soft compared to the LNL Press its like you didn't do anything when a case is cycled. After carefully backing the swage off and doing some testing putting in a few primers. I didn't have any more trouble with the case sticking. Thank You! I hope this helps others. P.S. I couldn't find this swage tool anywhere instock, but Midway USA for $88.
HL, I didn't see a reference or comment on trimming before swaging. It seems to me that the overall case length would have an affect on the radius on the swage. Did you trim all of your cases to length before swaging or not? If cases are trimmed prior to swaging, then batch separation by manufacturer or lot probably wouldn't be necessary. I'm getting ready to run about 750 mixed LC and IMI 5.56 cases and am looking for a little guidance on this point. Sure would be great to be able to set the swage tool just once for a particular case OAL length (1.750) and then not have to adjust it again. Any thoughts on this point? Thanks in advance, Haas
Different makers of mil-spec brass and even cases from the same maker but in different lots sometimes have thicker or thinner case head dimensions. Separating lots and cases by headstamp should be done for proper swaging depths. For example, I have a bunch of 7.62x51 NATO mil-spec brass with headstamps, WRA 66 and WRA 70. Even though they are both made by Winchester Repeating Arms they might have different head thicknesses so I separate them in two different boxes and set my die for each lot. I Hope that helps.
Great video sir 👍I have a question for you sense you have been reloading for 30 years. I just bought a Hornady AP lock and load press im currently reloading 9mm my problem is when I punch out the spent primer it's getting jammed up and I have to wiggle the case to make the spent primer drop out is there a easy fix to this problem. Thank you in advance 👍
Great video.. I'm looking for a swager and I've got an AP press. My question is this; Does all 5.56 brass have a crimp? I've been reload handgun cartridges for a few years now but with the exception of 30-30 I haven't done much rifle reloading. Thanks!!
+FOGHORNNC If the ammo was loaded for the military, it will have a crimp. Typically all 5.56 ammo will have a crimp, at least in my experience. If it's new brass that has never had a primer inserted, it won't have a crimp. If it's ammo that has been reloaded, the crimp will most likely have been removed, at least if the person reloading it did it properly. You will find that even some commercial .223 ammo has a crimp now too (I've heard some Federal ammo is being crimped). In any case, the crimp only needs to be removed once for the lifetime of the brass. Hope that helps.
+HornadyLoader Thanks!! That does help. Now I just need to decide on a swager.. I like the hornady one but if I'm using my single stage It might be nice to have a separate one... That said it looks like the hornady will be faster once it's set. Thanks again!!!
+FOGHORNNC A few of my reloading buddies have the RCBS swager, it works well. I like the Hornady version on the AP press because of the speed. I can crank em out much faster than with the standalone units. So even if I'm doing the actual loading on my single stage, I still use the AP to do the swaging.
+groovymoon Hi, it takes some practice and there are several things I wish they would change on it, but now that I have it mastered, I use it for ALL of my trimming and case prep sessions. You WILL be frustrated with it at first, but if you practice with it for a while, you'll find it actually does work very well. There are some things you need to know about it though and I have a video out on it that you might be interested in. You can view it at ruclips.net/video/K7S2Q0e1VsI/видео.html I apologize in advance for the video quality on that one, I did it before I upgraded my camera equipment. Thanks for watching!
+CORZER0 Hi CORZERO, Yup, Dillon has some quality products. One of these days I'll probably pick up a 650 or 1050 for my shop. I get their catalog in the mail every once in a while and I have to lock up my credit cards while I look through it, lol.
Using a Dillon swagger tool would be 1000 times quicker and easier to set up. I don’t think I would enjoy taking my press set up apart and putting it back together each time I wanted to swage some brass.
I love Hornady Products. Although I have now got a Hornady LNL Case feeder on order with them Since October 2014, As well as a Range Bag. They keep giving excuses for not shipping to me. So their customer Service is seriously going down hill. And Ive invested a lot into Hornady Equiptment.
Skilpadjie1 Ouch, sorry to hear that. Did you order it directly from Hornady? MidwayUSA and Amazon have them in-stock for $130 less. Manufacturers don't like to compete with their distributors so they typically charge full retail. If you need the 220 volt version, amazon has em for $100 less than Hornady. Not much you can do about the range bag I suppose. I wouldn't put up with a 10 month delay. You might consider canceling your order with Hornady and find a dealer who charges reasonable prices and has the case feeders in stock.
Looking for the LNL AP Electric case feeder in 220v. Live in South Africa. Ordered it from Hornady's biggest importer as recommended by Hornady. Never came then Hornady said to use others they gave. They just say it has to come through the main one. Told Hornady and begged them to please send it. asd importer even sent me copy of order to Hornady of items. Hornady just never send. I begged them on emails. To the point they now just ignore me. And all my machines are Hornady and accessories. They have really let me down. Steve and Lori Parachini.
Skilpadjie1 That's extremely disappointing. You'd think Hornady would make an exception based on the fact that you're already a Hornady customer and have been waiting 10 months. I know they don't typically sell directly to customers because they don't want to compete with their distributors. That's a common practice for companies here in the states. I've tried to buy stuff form them directly when I couldn't find an item elsewhere but they wouldn't do it for me either. Not sure what the laws are regarding selling to South Africa. If you're able to buy from Amazon.com, they have them in stock. I don't know what price you got from the local distributor, or what the shipping charges would be to South Africa, but it's worth a shot. Good luck Steve. I hope you can get this resolved...10 months is ridiculous.
Hornady direct charges about double what others are asking excluding shipping. Mainly due to not want to compete with Retailers. Also feel they could have offered it to me maybe at same rate they would have charged the local retailer. But oh well they not interested. Spoke to Lori Parachini from Hornady. who actually said she spoke to Steve. But nothing.
Am I the only one who looks at this and thinks that 2 of the dies are pointless? When the ram is up, you put a case over the rod @ first station, remove the crimp @ 2nd station and just manually remove the case @ 3rd station. Eff funnel and removal dies. It's a waste of money.
Спорт
Thank you for doing this one. Very thorough and setup of mine went without a hitch. Keep them coming..
What?!? No NATO auto case feeder & ejector? :) Seriously, thanks for doing these. Very "to the point" and still thorough.
Thanks for the orientation.
Thank you so much for ths excellent video t answered all my questions
I found the video very interesting and informative.
Regarding your peeve about putting flats on the LNL bushings, I might offer this. One of the intentions to make operation easy is to have a bushing for every die. You would adjust the die once and then insert or remove it with a quick twist. This is beneficial for us for quick and easy operation, and it is beneficial for Hornady, because they can sell more bushings (a symbiotic relationship) however that first time that you are inserting a bushing is when you will have the issue, and to avoid that you can temporarily lock it on the die with or without the wrench and twist insert, then then loosen with the wrench for set-up.
If you are ambitious you can lock and die on a bushing and trace the lock ring flats onto the bushing with a razor blade then grind in a vise, now you can insert dies with the lock ring wrench. Maybe you could do a video of that and send it to Hornady.
+Rollin Shultz Hi Rolin, believe me, I've tried that. The problem is that once you have the bushing locked in, then try to unfasten the lock ring with the wrench, the bushing turns with it and you're back to where you started. I can turn the bushing with my hand to get it locked well enough to adjust a die so it's not a big deal. My point in the video I suppose was that the bushing should have flats to begin with...without having to grind anything. I've been using that press for about 20 years so I'm well aware of the reasons for the bushings and the "symbiotic relationship" it creates. But there are several little details that Hornady could/should have designed a bit better with some of their products...that is one of them.
+HornadyLoader Cool, you have experience, I am just now putting my reloading station together. I am using a corner and two end pieces computer desk setup, because it is already there in my garage and it is free. It is surprisingly sturdy. I have some storage units with various size bins and dies sets for .40, .45 and .454 Casull. I need to figure out how I am going to organize the sizes so that all parts for a caliber are easy to find and set-up. I don't know if I'll use bins for that or like you did, use those screw driver holders. I also need to plan storage for bullets and I think bins are too flimsy for any volume of bullets, so any tips you have let me know.
Do you have a video of your set-up. I am installing the LNL AP factory. Some things I still need to purchase before I can even get started:
1. A scale
2. A case trimmer and supporting tools.
3. I anticipate storing the powder and primers indoors somewhere during winter, to prevent issues from freezing weather.
I am collecting multiple size casings from my gun range and may have a large amount of .223s and I am thinking about reforming them for 300AAC. Other than that I have a lot to learn and I will be here attending RUclips U. to get as much heads-up as possible.
+Rollin Shultz Hi Rolin, I have a video on RUclips titled "My Reloading Bench" that goes over all the stuff I have on the bench. I've changed the component storage layout a bit since the video was done and it's another one of those videos I did before upgrading my camera so the resolution isn't the best. Those die holders aren't screwdriver holders, they are actual die holders from Inline Fabrication and they're sized to fit the LNL bushings properly so they work great with Hornady Presses. However, I would suggest keeping the dies in the die boxes that they came with. If you use die holders like I have, then you have to be very conscientious about putting them back in the proper spot before pulling down more dies because some of them aren't marked for the caliber they're for and they can get mixed up easily. I would also store your powder indoors during the summer if you live in a humid environment. Here in Florida it's very humid during the summer and I worry that my powders will be affected if I store it outdoors. I also have videos on trimmers, scales, and powder measures, mostly Hornady products since that's what I have but there are many manufacturers who have similar products. Some not as good, some about the same, and some better.
A well produced instructional video on this product. I should like to point out, however, that not all crimps are round so some reloaders, especially new to reloading, may be confused and not think that it's crimped. Some cases have three point crimps and still need to be swaged.
Allen Lucas Good point Allen, all of my military brass has the round crimp so I didn't think about the point crimps. I'll have to annotate the video with that. Thanks!
Nice video informative like all the videos you put out.
Just a though on my part.
I would not bother with the stage 3 and 4 dies and to get around not having flats on the lock and load inserts I would just put the die part way in lock it in place then put the insert in with the help of the dies flat sides then complete the adjustments, just my thoughts on the subject all the best Robert McMillan.
Did you find in order to get the proper swage you had to adjust to cam over?
Good video and to the point I use the Dillon Super Swage 600 works great and fast.
+Lou Flores The Dillon selkls for $100.00 bucks.? To rich for the amount of Military brass that I do & use.?
+A REDTAIL I use a very large amount of LC Brass I would put it 98% is Military brass
My edges hav a chunk missing, wat am I doin wrong? thx for ur help
I dont have a Hornady press but I do enjoy your vids. Thanks for doing them. And put some "flats" on those LNL bushings Hornady!!! HAHAHAHA
Why doesn't the case get stuck in the swage die? What makes it drop free?
Your comments on cleaning and maintaining the dies makes me want to see a video on that topic as well. I just got several sets of RCBS dies and I want to make sure I properly care for them.
Also, how common are military crimps on 308 brass? I've only ever seen it on 5.56 brass, namely the ZQI brand they sold at Walmart for awhile.
grinc333 Hi grinc333, The .308 Winchester is basically the civilian version of the 7.62x51 NATO round, just like the .223 Remington is the civilian version of the 5.56 NATO. There are some differences and there are issues with using the 7.62x51 NATO in a rifle chambered for .308. Similarly, there are issues with using 5.56 NATO in a rifle chambered for .223. SAAMI considers it safe for a .308 rifle to fire 7.62, but firing a 5.56 in a rifle chambered for .223 is more problematic. So, just like you are more likely to see the military crimp on 5.56 and not .223, you are more likely to see the crimp on 7.62 and not .308. You should contact the manufacturer of your rifle before using 7.62 (or 5.56 for that matter). As far as a cleaning video, I might just do that although I doubt people would be interested in seeing me spray a die with Hornady One-Shot and wiping it down. Thanks for the question! Hornady Loader
HornadyLoader
Does all reloading equipment need to be wiped and sprayed down before first use? For example, my Rock Chucker press and dies come a certain way from the factory and it almost makes me want to clean and oil the press first and clean the dies like how you recommended with the One Shot.
grinc333 I always use a cleaner/dry lube on all exposed metal parts, not just the dies. The ram, sub-plate, shell plates, shell holders, etc. It's a good idea to make sure your equipment remains rust free and operates smoothly. Many of the tolerances are very tight, like the ram for example, and even a light rust can interfere with the smooth operation of your press and other tools. I do the press and other tools about once a year, and the dies about every 6 months or so. On rotating joints, like the ram handle mechanism, I usually disassemble them and apply a light grease. Make sure you're not voiding any warranties before you do that though.
Why not put all three dies in sequence? Why skip station 2?
Thanks for the explanations! Do these tools also uniformize the size/depth of the primer pockets?
+parigott4 Hi, no, it just removes the crimp from the rim of the primer pocket and gives it a radiused edge. You still need to use your primer pocket uniformer, cleaner, etc. Thanks for watching!
Thanks!!
Thank You for very nice video. Just received my Swage tool today. I didn't see in the comments of anyone having stuck cases in the swage tool. As you said I took my time and was very careful when setting up the tool. I have about 1000 rds of Lake City brass with the slotted crimps around the primer. These little slots make is just a little harder to set your correct swage. As I was running some brass I had several stick up inside the swage tool. Is this caused by too deep a swage setting? Or the slotted crimps around the primer?
+Steve9083 Hi Steve, I've never had a case get stuck, regardless of the type of crimp (round or slotted). I can see how setting the swage tool too deep into the primer pocket would cause a case to get stuck however. What you're trying to accomplish is to radius the edge of the primer pocket so you really don't need it to be very deep at all. If you are able to determine what is causing your issue, I'd be interested in hearing what happened. Thanks!
+HornadyLoader Thanks for the reply. I think all reloaders can relate to the fact that after a few 1000 rds of using what ever press we may own. We get used to the feel of when a primer goes in, the bullet is seated correctly etc. For those of us that are new to this swage FORGET ALL THAT. Hornadyloader is correct. It doesn't take much to swage with this new system. I was thinking in my head that I should feel that primer pocket expand just a little . Nope you don't feel anything. That brass is so soft compared to the LNL Press its like you didn't do anything when a case is cycled. After carefully backing the swage off and doing some testing putting in a few primers. I didn't have any more trouble with the case sticking. Thank You! I hope this helps others. P.S. I couldn't find this swage tool anywhere instock, but Midway USA for $88.
HL,
I didn't see a reference or comment on trimming before swaging. It seems to me that the overall case length would have an affect on the radius on the swage. Did you trim all of your cases to length before swaging or not? If cases are trimmed prior to swaging, then batch separation by manufacturer or lot probably wouldn't be necessary.
I'm getting ready to run about 750 mixed LC and IMI 5.56 cases and am looking for a little guidance on this point. Sure would be great to be able to set the swage tool just once for a particular case OAL length (1.750) and then not have to adjust it again. Any thoughts on this point?
Thanks in advance,
Haas
Different makers of mil-spec brass and even cases from the same maker but in different lots sometimes have thicker or thinner case head dimensions. Separating lots and cases by headstamp should be done for proper swaging depths. For example, I have a bunch of 7.62x51 NATO mil-spec brass with headstamps, WRA 66 and WRA 70. Even though they are both made by Winchester Repeating Arms they might have different head thicknesses so I separate them in two different boxes and set my die for each lot. I Hope that helps.
Great video sir 👍I have a question for you sense you have been reloading for 30 years.
I just bought a Hornady AP lock and load press im currently reloading 9mm my problem is when I punch out the spent primer it's getting jammed up and I have to wiggle the case to make the spent primer drop out is there a easy fix to this problem.
Thank you in advance 👍
My first thought is that you might need to adjust the punching depth of the pin on your decapping die.
Great video.. I'm looking for a swager and I've got an AP press. My question is this; Does all 5.56 brass have a crimp? I've been reload handgun cartridges for a few years now but with the exception of 30-30 I haven't done much rifle reloading. Thanks!!
+FOGHORNNC If the ammo was loaded for the military, it will have a crimp. Typically all 5.56 ammo will have a crimp, at least in my experience. If it's new brass that has never had a primer inserted, it won't have a crimp. If it's ammo that has been reloaded, the crimp will most likely have been removed, at least if the person reloading it did it properly. You will find that even some commercial .223 ammo has a crimp now too (I've heard some Federal ammo is being crimped). In any case, the crimp only needs to be removed once for the lifetime of the brass. Hope that helps.
+HornadyLoader Thanks!! That does help. Now I just need to decide on a swager.. I like the hornady one but if I'm using my single stage It might be nice to have a separate one... That said it looks like the hornady will be faster once it's set. Thanks again!!!
+FOGHORNNC A few of my reloading buddies have the RCBS swager, it works well. I like the Hornady version on the AP press because of the speed. I can crank em out much faster than with the standalone units. So even if I'm doing the actual loading on my single stage, I still use the AP to do the swaging.
How do you like that LnL case prep center? Worth the $$$$$?
+groovymoon Hi, it takes some practice and there are several things I wish they would change on it, but now that I have it mastered, I use it for ALL of my trimming and case prep sessions. You WILL be frustrated with it at first, but if you practice with it for a while, you'll find it actually does work very well. There are some things you need to know about it though and I have a video out on it that you might be interested in. You can view it at ruclips.net/video/K7S2Q0e1VsI/видео.html I apologize in advance for the video quality on that one, I did it before I upgraded my camera equipment. Thanks for watching!
Nice system. Dillon Super Swage 600 for me though. Looks like both systems retail for around $100.
+CORZER0 Hi CORZERO, Yup, Dillon has some quality products. One of these days I'll probably pick up a 650 or 1050 for my shop. I get their catalog in the mail every once in a while and I have to lock up my credit cards while I look through it, lol.
Like the video! Thank you. looks like it does a graet job, but it's Basically a 3 die set just to swage?!!! renders a case feed and eject useless.
Using a Dillon swagger tool would be 1000 times quicker and easier to set up. I don’t think I would enjoy taking my press set up apart and putting it back together each time I wanted to swage some brass.
For real!!!
I love Hornady Products. Although I have now got a Hornady LNL Case feeder on order with them Since October 2014, As well as a Range Bag. They keep giving excuses for not shipping to me. So their customer Service is seriously going down hill. And Ive invested a lot into Hornady Equiptment.
Skilpadjie1 Ouch, sorry to hear that. Did you order it directly from Hornady? MidwayUSA and Amazon have them in-stock for $130 less. Manufacturers don't like to compete with their distributors so they typically charge full retail. If you need the 220 volt version, amazon has em for $100 less than Hornady. Not much you can do about the range bag I suppose. I wouldn't put up with a 10 month delay. You might consider canceling your order with Hornady and find a dealer who charges reasonable prices and has the case feeders in stock.
Looking for the LNL AP Electric case feeder in 220v. Live in South Africa. Ordered it from Hornady's biggest importer as recommended by Hornady. Never came then Hornady said to use others they gave. They just say it has to come through the main one. Told Hornady and begged them to please send it. asd importer even sent me copy of order to Hornady of items. Hornady just never send. I begged them on emails. To the point they now just ignore me. And all my machines are Hornady and accessories. They have really let me down. Steve and Lori Parachini.
Skilpadjie1 That's extremely disappointing. You'd think Hornady would make an exception based on the fact that you're already a Hornady customer and have been waiting 10 months. I know they don't typically sell directly to customers because they don't want to compete with their distributors. That's a common practice for companies here in the states. I've tried to buy stuff form them directly when I couldn't find an item elsewhere but they wouldn't do it for me either. Not sure what the laws are regarding selling to South Africa. If you're able to buy from Amazon.com, they have them in stock. I don't know what price you got from the local distributor, or what the shipping charges would be to South Africa, but it's worth a shot. Good luck Steve. I hope you can get this resolved...10 months is ridiculous.
Hornady direct charges about double what others are asking excluding shipping. Mainly due to not want to compete with Retailers. Also feel they could have offered it to me maybe at same rate they would have charged the local retailer. But oh well they not interested. Spoke to Lori Parachini from Hornady. who actually said she spoke to Steve. But nothing.
11:26 ROFLMAO!!!
Am I the only one who looks at this and thinks that 2 of the dies are pointless?
When the ram is up, you put a case over the rod @ first station, remove the crimp @ 2nd station and just manually remove the case @ 3rd station. Eff funnel and removal dies. It's a waste of money.