Thank you! I have the Hornady AP LNL and have been debating getting this swager tool… I’m definitely going to get it now as your video explained it well
Cmax Arms Okay, I over estimated how many were in the bin. (I am used to pistol cases I guess) I timed a session and it was 180 cases in 12 minutes. That's 15 cases per minute.
New to reloading. I purchased Hornady LNL about six months ago. I have been reloading for about 9 mm, 45 ACP and 50 Beowulf. It is time to start 223. I have a ton of lake City Brass and this tool looks perfect for the job. Next gotta buy the dies from sizing, de-priming, seating / crimp. Plus the tool for trimming, chamfer and debur.
Speaking of aneurysms put the case in and then take the old one out on one trip. I am getting aneurysms watching you make two trips to the press for each pull. Then the time the case went in while it was down xD
I almost had an aneurysm when you put it in station 4 and not 3. I Almost Lost It. Then I went to midway and saw $86.....and commenced with the aneurysm.
UPDATE; I have hand primed with the RCBS Universal hand primer and I did not have any problems (ZERO PROBLEMS) seating the primers. I had expected to have some cases that need a "deeper reaming" due to differences in cases and crimping/staking the primers into the case....It is too much setup to do a couple of cases, but for a bunch of cases, it is a home run.
Would like to have seen a before and after crimped primer pocket, and how easy or difficult to seat the primer after the swaging, some say that you have to also debur or ream out the primer pocket as well because the primers will still show signs of being difficult to seat.
Do you have to use any case lube? I recently bought this exact set up and was wondering if any case lube was needed. All brass has been deprimed ,resized, and washed. Just swage and trim but was curious about case lube. Thank you in advance
Question - how does the case not get stuck on the upstroke, in the swaging die? They just announced a tool for their single stage that I really want to get, but I can't figure out how it doesn't get stuck.
I have not experienced any stuck cases at all. I still think it is the only way to go for swagging large amounts of brass.....I hope you didn't jinx me! Thanks for watching.....
Drew Coleman, I am also looking for an answer to the case sticking/ hanging up in the die. I have the 223 and it works great. Just got the 308 but not so well at all. Cleaned and re Cleaned! Tried lube. No help. My sense is the die is not set correctly from the factory! Frustrating
It’s simple answer when you resize your case your stretching it causing friction between your case and die so if you don’t have lube in the case it’ll get stuck. This tool doesn’t do that it’ll be like running your die through a universal decapper you’ll notice you don’t need lube for that because there is not stretching and reforming involved this tool is just that no friction no stuck cases no pre lube required hoped that helped.
Oh and another thing different brass have different styles of crimp so different force my be needed to remove such crimp if I’m wrong please feel free to correct me.
wow that's sweet. I wish I was able to have more guns to were I could reload and save money. but only got a 3006 for my daughters first hunt which prob never happen. the clothes she needs we just can't afford. but we fish she likes that. of course she liked more before she hit 15 and shell be 16 this DEC. its more about phones internet fb and boys. yea have to out that was last cause if it was before phones or fb Ide be using the 3006. lol. but we both have a 22 rifle mines 10/22 and I have 22 pistil and 9mm which I don't really like. but I need a shoot gun for her and me to hunt. still looking. but I don't no if it would be worth buying reload stuff or me I trade for most if what I got. easier to trade than buy. but good video I learned something. thanks. god bless.
On reloading, aside of any money saving...... I really like reloading...I mean it literally...Doing it makes me feel good........it's kind of weird, but actually makes me feel good....very therapeutic........
heath schwab the price to get into reloading makes it only a money saver if you shoot enougj to recoup the cost. and if you mostly trade it will make it hard as you will need specific tools to reload. can't just do a deal if it is a good deal. so it sounds like reloading might not be financially a good decision for you right now. just being honest. but then again what do I know. maybe you can make it happen. best of luck to you.
Citizen8700 thanks sir. yea o checked into it. unless I found the stuff cheap or on sale for just 22 and 3006 I've got melter and I can get lead. but yea prob cheaper to just buy ammo. I can't work so can't make fast enough money to do it my self. thanks for the comment but your right. god bless.
The CH-4D swagging die kit is just as fast because you're still feeding the cases one at a time with this Hornady kit. In fact the CH-4D die is faster at a fraction of the cost.
Ch 4D is a great company that makes great dies. They have been around for a very long time. If I didn't already have the dies that I need I would definitely use their products. Their designs were cutting edge even before Lee and Dylan. They stock many dies that you just can't find anymore. I spoke with the owner several years ago and he knew his stuff.
@Kmichael168 thanks for the reply. I was talking about the die that does the swaging however. I did get my answer though. I ended up buying a set myself.
@@jasonwoody8041 I bought a set myself. I had over 1500 rounds ready cleaned resized and deprimed just needed those primer pockets done and I was putting it off because of the work involved. Between the Lyman electric case trimmer and the swage die set has made life tremendously easy and I get excited now instead of dragging my feet.
aznazguy the swaging tool has one adjustment. And that adjustment is depth. I’m not sure how you arrived to any other conclusion. Controlling the variables would literally be to precisely size the shoulder and trim the neck. The better job you do, the better the swaging tool will work.
@@MTNcorps I'll use a similar tone in my reply as you have. Depth of what though? It's not the case or shoulder length. It's the web inside the case, as I wrote and as the Hornady instruction read. The distance from the inside web to the swager. Are you claiming that this tool touches the end of the case mouth or the shoulder? If so, that's funny! Take another closer look at it and re-read the instructions and see if you still think that. I don't have this tool, and I can clearly see and understand from the videos and pictures that the inverted case is supported inside on the swage plate support anvil, only. Nothing stops downward travel of the case by touching the exterior shoulder nor end of the case mouth. Put a case on the anvil and see what stops it. It has nothing to do with what you've mentioned. No swaging tool that I've seen is indexed off of the shoulder or case mouth, nor would you want it to be. If that were the case it would be a horrible design. You wouldn't want your precisely located dimension to be used to force a swage through the base of the case. Why would you, when you could use the inside web like this tool or the case rim like several other designs? From the instructions for the tool that you have in your possession: "IMPORTANT: Sort cases by manufacturer and lot number, if possible. Different brands have varying web thicknesses, which can cause swage variation." They don't say anything about trim length or shoulder. They mentioned possibly having to run an expander or full length size them, but it's just to get them to fit through the dies. This is obvious if one pays attention even to just this video and will see that the end of the case mouth isn't bottomed out by anything on the anvil. If you still think your thought process makes sense, please explain how trimming your brass is going to do anything about the varying web thicknesses among different manufacturers, so that you wouldn't have to adjust the depth of the swage. Think about what you're saying.
aznazguy I have the tool. So I will tell you that shoulder and trim must be done prior to swaging. Often times after swaging I have to resize the neck. This means that the dowel doesn’t always contact the web first. Or possibly that the dowel is under sized from the long end of sammi dimensions. But the tool functions flawlessly when all casings are full length sized and trimmed. When I said depth I meant the setting in the die. It goes up and down. So please spare me your guessing games and go buy the tool and use it.
aznazguy you will find the same result as me if you’re half as good as your words allude you to be. The dowels on the plate have a shoulders that the case mouth contacts. If the dowel were sized .02 longer than sammi you might be correct. But your not.
Looks to me...if you rotate they're locations by 2 stations clockwise, you can keep your hand on the lever, and use your left hand to drop in and extract cases. Don't need no directions.
Measure In Grains I also don't see the need for the 1st die in the sequence. Does that just guide the case onto the rod? Because that seems kind of unnecessary.
+brian andre .. I hope answers your question, if not let me know..here is my VR response/answer to your question......Cmax ruclips.net/video/YjSZ7pKUmt0/видео.html
Wow, way to much work and to many tools and adjustments. I will not be buying it and i don't use the Hornady priming system either. Hand prime my brass and use a Dillon swage for primer pockets. Great job with the video though.
your not missing anything i had a dillon 650 and there was issues with that, expensive changeovers, and when the press goes souith it really goes south, and can take a hour to fix a problem, at the end of the day if u have money burning a whole in yoru pocket buy a dillon and u want to make ammo that goes bang buy a lee pro 1000 that rickety pice of crap loaded 8k rounds without a hiccup 3 station and simple but im a hornady guy now
Thank you! I have the Hornady AP LNL and have been debating getting this swager tool… I’m definitely going to get it now as your video explained it well
I literally did somewhere between 200-300 cases in 10 minutes....I am very pleased...now if I can only get them trimmed that fast!
Cmax Arms Okay, I over estimated how many were in the bin. (I am used to pistol cases I guess) I timed a session and it was 180 cases in 12 minutes. That's 15 cases per minute.
Nice and clear instructions. Simple and easy approach is the best .
Bear 775 Thanks Bear, it works great!
New to reloading. I purchased Hornady LNL about six months ago. I have been reloading for about 9 mm, 45 ACP and 50 Beowulf. It is time to start 223. I have a ton of lake City Brass and this tool looks perfect for the job. Next gotta buy the dies from sizing, de-priming, seating / crimp. Plus the tool for trimming, chamfer and debur.
Wow! Look at that! Why has no one told about this!? Time to do a little shopping. Great video. Thanks for posting.
It works great..........I hope you'ii give me a thumbs up! Cmax
Done!
Love my hornady reloading tools!
1500 per hour on my auto press! luvin it
Speaking of aneurysms put the case in and then take the old one out on one trip. I am getting aneurysms watching you make two trips to the press for each pull. Then the time the case went in while it was down xD
I almost had an aneurysm when you put it in station 4 and not 3. I Almost Lost It. Then I went to midway and saw $86.....and commenced with the aneurysm.
Measure In Grains LOL.....
I am your newest subscriber
UPDATE; I have hand primed with the RCBS Universal hand primer and I did not have any problems (ZERO PROBLEMS) seating the primers. I had expected to have some cases that need a "deeper reaming" due to differences in cases and crimping/staking the primers into the case....It is too much setup to do a couple of cases, but for a bunch of cases, it is a home run.
Would like to have seen a before and after crimped primer pocket, and how easy or difficult to seat the primer after the swaging, some say that you have to also debur or ream out the primer pocket as well because the primers will still show signs of being difficult to seat.
Thank you very nice review. I need to get one
+Laird Walsh ..thanks for watching... it works great for "mass quantities"! Cmax
Do you have to use any case lube? I recently bought this exact set up and was wondering if any case lube was needed. All brass has been deprimed ,resized, and washed. Just swage and trim but was curious about case lube. Thank you in advance
wish this worked on my Lee turret press some how. hate to have to buy a whole new press just for this.. nice tool tho
It works great.......thanks for watching.....
I’m red and like it.
Question - how does the case not get stuck on the upstroke, in the swaging die? They just announced a tool for their single stage that I really want to get, but I can't figure out how it doesn't get stuck.
I have not experienced any stuck cases at all. I still think it is the only way to go for swagging large amounts of brass.....I hope you didn't jinx me! Thanks for watching.....
Cmax Arms so some sort of dark magic then! Thanks for the video, hopefully they'll start shipping the single stage version soon.
Drew Coleman, I am also looking for an answer to the case sticking/ hanging up in the die. I have the 223 and it works great. Just got the 308 but not so well at all. Cleaned and re Cleaned! Tried lube. No help. My sense is the die is not set correctly from the factory! Frustrating
It’s simple answer when you resize your case your stretching it causing friction between your case and die so if you don’t have lube in the case it’ll get stuck. This tool doesn’t do that it’ll be like running your die through a universal decapper you’ll notice you don’t need lube for that because there is not stretching and reforming involved this tool is just that no friction no stuck cases no pre lube required hoped that helped.
Oh and another thing different brass have different styles of crimp so different force my be needed to remove such crimp if I’m wrong please feel free to correct me.
I love mine also. I got the 308 and 223 version
+Chris Adams .....yeah , Hornady came up with a winner.......223 & 308 that covers it......thanks for watching......
@@CmaxArms does it work for 9mm and 300 blackout? thanks for the great video
wow that's sweet. I wish I was able to have more guns to were I could reload and save money. but only got a 3006 for my daughters first hunt which prob never happen. the clothes she needs we just can't afford. but we fish she likes that. of course she liked more before she hit 15 and shell be 16 this DEC. its more about phones internet fb and boys. yea have to out that was last cause if it was before phones or fb Ide be using the 3006. lol. but we both have a 22 rifle mines 10/22 and I have 22 pistil and 9mm which I don't really like. but I need a shoot gun for her and me to hunt. still looking. but I don't no if it would be worth buying reload stuff or me I trade for most if what I got. easier to trade than buy. but good video I learned something. thanks. god bless.
On reloading, aside of any money saving...... I really like reloading...I mean it literally...Doing it makes me feel good........it's kind of weird, but actually makes me feel good....very therapeutic........
heath schwab the price to get into reloading makes it only a money saver if you shoot enougj to recoup the cost. and if you mostly trade it will make it hard as you will need specific tools to reload. can't just do a deal if it is a good deal. so it sounds like reloading might not be financially a good decision for you right now. just being honest. but then again what do I know. maybe you can make it happen. best of luck to you.
Citizen8700 thanks sir. yea o checked into it. unless I found the stuff cheap or on sale for just 22 and 3006 I've got melter and I can get lead. but yea prob cheaper to just buy ammo. I can't work so can't make fast enough money to do it my self. thanks for the comment but your right. god bless.
The CH-4D swagging die kit is just as fast because you're still feeding the cases one at a time with this Hornady kit. In fact the CH-4D die is faster at a fraction of the cost.
I like that tool, looks easy to set up and use.....i like the price as well...But I don't see how it could be faster. thanks for watching
Ch 4D is a great company that makes great dies. They have been around for a very long time. If I didn't already have the dies that I need I would definitely use their products. Their designs were cutting edge even before Lee and Dylan. They stock many dies that you just can't find anymore. I spoke with the owner several years ago and he knew his stuff.
i know this is a old video but how does the case get kicked off the swager die? i assume a powerfull spring is in the die.
The first case goes in and stays until the next pushes it out. No spring in the dies. Your stroke of the handle is what pushes it out
@Kmichael168 thanks for the reply. I was talking about the die that does the swaging however. I did get my answer though. I ended up buying a set myself.
@@jasonwoody8041 I bought a set myself. I had over 1500 rounds ready cleaned resized and deprimed just needed those primer pockets done and I was putting it off because of the work involved. Between the Lyman electric case trimmer and the swage die set has made life tremendously easy and I get excited now instead of dragging my feet.
I just got this. Wouldn’t it be easier to trim all your brass first so you can set the swage die once and not have to adjust?
It's the potential web thickness variation between head stamps, not the case length.
aznazguy the swaging tool has one adjustment. And that adjustment is depth. I’m not sure how you arrived to any other conclusion. Controlling the variables would literally be to precisely size the shoulder and trim the neck. The better job you do, the better the swaging tool will work.
@@MTNcorps I'll use a similar tone in my reply as you have.
Depth of what though? It's not the case or shoulder length. It's the web inside the case, as I wrote and as the Hornady instruction read. The distance from the inside web to the swager.
Are you claiming that this tool touches the end of the case mouth or the shoulder? If so, that's funny! Take another closer look at it and re-read the instructions and see if you still think that.
I don't have this tool, and I can clearly see and understand from the videos and pictures that the inverted case is supported inside on the swage plate support anvil, only. Nothing stops downward travel of the case by touching the exterior shoulder nor end of the case mouth. Put a case on the anvil and see what stops it. It has nothing to do with what you've mentioned.
No swaging tool that I've seen is indexed off of the shoulder or case mouth, nor would you want it to be. If that were the case it would be a horrible design. You wouldn't want your precisely located dimension to be used to force a swage through the base of the case. Why would you, when you could use the inside web like this tool or the case rim like several other designs?
From the instructions for the tool that you have in your possession: "IMPORTANT: Sort cases by manufacturer
and lot number, if possible. Different
brands have varying web thicknesses, which can cause swage variation."
They don't say anything about trim length or shoulder. They mentioned possibly having to run an expander or full length size them, but it's just to get them to fit through the dies. This is obvious if one pays attention even to just this video and will see that the end of the case mouth isn't bottomed out by anything on the anvil.
If you still think your thought process makes sense, please explain how trimming your brass is going to do anything about the varying web thicknesses among different manufacturers, so that you wouldn't have to adjust the depth of the swage.
Think about what you're saying.
aznazguy I have the tool. So I will tell you that shoulder and trim must be done prior to swaging. Often times after swaging I have to resize the neck. This means that the dowel doesn’t always contact the web first. Or possibly that the dowel is under sized from the long end of sammi dimensions. But the tool functions flawlessly when all casings are full length sized and trimmed. When I said depth I meant the setting in the die. It goes up and down. So please spare me your guessing games and go buy the tool and use it.
aznazguy you will find the same result as me if you’re half as good as your words allude you to be. The dowels on the plate have a shoulders that the case mouth contacts. If the dowel were sized .02 longer than sammi you might be correct. But your not.
go big red!
Looks to me...if you rotate they're locations by 2 stations clockwise, you can keep your hand on the lever, and use your left hand to drop in and extract cases. Don't need no directions.
Measure In Grains or even 1 station
Measure In Grains I also don't see the need for the 1st die in the sequence. Does that just guide the case onto the rod? Because that seems kind of unnecessary.
Measure In Grains yeah you can change the stations and yes that last die is so you can feed it fast, it just guides it on the shaft.
how hard is the resistance on the swager?
+brian andre .. I hope answers your question, if not let me know..here is my VR response/answer to your question......Cmax
ruclips.net/video/YjSZ7pKUmt0/видео.html
@@CmaxArms Is the VR intentionally private? I can play the video.
Now all you need is a case feeder and a plastic jug on top of the ejection die, like on bulge buster or bullet sizing dies. {;>))
mine is ejected into a plastic bucket via a 1/2 inch plastic tube. 1500 per hour
With a buddy loading and unloading you can do 1000/hr I bet
still only swaging one at a time......
Wow, way to much work and to many tools and adjustments. I will not be buying it and i don't use the Hornady priming system either. Hand prime my brass and use a Dillon swage for primer pockets. Great job with the video though.
your not missing anything i had a dillon 650 and there was issues with that, expensive changeovers, and when the press goes souith it really goes south, and can take a hour to fix a problem, at the end of the day if u have money burning a whole in yoru pocket buy a dillon and u want to make ammo that goes bang buy a lee pro 1000 that rickety pice of crap loaded 8k rounds without a hiccup 3 station and simple but im a hornady guy now