Thank you for this video! I have exactly the same machine, and as you know, there is very little on-line information about it. Question: Have you had an trouble with wood being pulled to the Left or Right as it goes through the planer? I've found that adjusting the infeed rollers is very tedious, and the corrections don't seem to last... Thanks!
Great video! How flat are the tables? Did you ever have to re-calibrate the tables for coplanar? How sturdy is the fence, is it ever out of square if you pull it to a certain spot on the tables?
My tables are within 2 thou over the whole surface. I haven't had to adjust anything since I've had it. The fence is great. The fence design, added table length and rigidity are why I wanted the upgraded machine as I am generally working with larger components. The fence stays true no water where you have it. Its nice having the heavy support post where it matter.
I came here hoping to find SOMEONE who could easily explain how to adjust these machines. I bought an FS41 Elite S in 2006, and after daily professional use, I still don't totally understand the dynamics when you have 4 fixed hinge points, and 4 adjustable set screw points (which are super annoying). My tables were never flat from day 1, but I got by. Checking them again last week, I found they were both dished by over 1/32". I didn't want to take the whole thing apart and pay for grinding, so -using files and dead-flat heavy aluminum square tube with 40 grit paper, I slowly flattened them out -coating the surfaces with ink to see the scratch patterns and high spots. But, the co-planar adjustment is still a head scratcher. The castings are weak enough that 1/4 turn on a set screw can warp them. (Also, the whole design is a little Mickey-Mouse -I'm only 150lb. but if you lean some weight on the end of the outfeed table, you can flex the whole assembly easily.) I would LOVE a clear step-by-step manual about how to set-up the machine, but the manual I received only covered operation. So far as I can tell, the process is -first, set the outfeed table height to the apex of the knives at the end of the table closest to the hinge. Then, adjust the set screws at the front so the entire width of the table is consistent with the apex of the knives. The SUPER ANNOYING thing is that the set screw has a lock nut, and because the set screw threads are a relatively coarse pitch, the amount of slack in the threads that the lock nut takes up -throws your adjustment off. For example, let's say you get it dialed in with the set screw (even keeping the lock but pretty tight). When you go to cinch the lock nut home (not allowing the set screw to turn), your previously perfect adjustment is now thrown off. The set screws should have a super fine thread pitch, AND they should be hardened (type 8, etc.) because these soft bolts engaging an even softer cast-iron surface is a recipe for disaster. For the record, my design is a tiny bit different than this newer model but not by much. In the 17 years I've had mine, I've moved it 4-5 times and each time requires an extensive set-up/adjustment. I hate it. It feels like an abusive relationship. But, having a single machine footprint is worth it when you consider what you pay in workshop rent over many years in an expensive real estate market. And, the Tersa head is a dream -which is the main reason I bought it. I do a lot of laminated parts and some salvaged material, and it's such an advantage to be able to throw some older knives in there in less than a minute, and then swap back to sharp ones for clean material. But, I'd never buy another SCM machine. I can't wait to find a used Martin or convert an older Oliver or similar to a newer cutterhead. Final tip: if you accidentally put a board that's too thick through the planer -drop the table immediately. Recently, a new helper did this and hesitated -not sure what to do. In that short interval, where the feed rollers were stopped, the cutterhead (which engages the friction wheels to drive the feed rollers) wore a deep groove in the friction wheel. It was a HUGE pain to order a replacement from SCM, took many months, and cost almost $300. So, don't do that. Also, I'm not sure why but the design of the planer/feed rollers prevent you from planing multiple parts side by side (I guess because they're just steel vs. rubber-coated?) so -if you expect to be able to run a bunch of stuff together, forget that... it's only end-to-end.
Развлечения
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Thank for the video, think I’m going to get the Felder AD941 though.
Great follow up!
Great comment!
Can you tell me more about the noise and what you did to fix it? I have a similar machine, it just started making a loud noise.
Nice machine , i have fs52ex , 4 knifes .....7kw ...its a monster
Thank you for this video! I have exactly the same machine, and as you know, there is very little on-line information about it. Question: Have you had an trouble with wood being pulled to the Left or Right as it goes through the planer? I've found that adjusting the infeed rollers is very tedious, and the corrections don't seem to last... Thanks!
It pulls because of the curve of the cutters head. A straight blade machine wouldn’t do it.
Great video!
How flat are the tables? Did you ever have to re-calibrate the tables for coplanar? How sturdy is the fence, is it ever out of square if you pull it to a certain spot on the tables?
My tables are within 2 thou over the whole surface. I haven't had to adjust anything since I've had it.
The fence is great. The fence design, added table length and rigidity are why I wanted the upgraded machine as I am generally working with larger components. The fence stays true no water where you have it. Its nice having the heavy support post where it matter.
I came here hoping to find SOMEONE who could easily explain how to adjust these machines. I bought an FS41 Elite S in 2006, and after daily professional use, I still don't totally understand the dynamics when you have 4 fixed hinge points, and 4 adjustable set screw points (which are super annoying). My tables were never flat from day 1, but I got by. Checking them again last week, I found they were both dished by over 1/32". I didn't want to take the whole thing apart and pay for grinding, so -using files and dead-flat heavy aluminum square tube with 40 grit paper, I slowly flattened them out -coating the surfaces with ink to see the scratch patterns and high spots. But, the co-planar adjustment is still a head scratcher. The castings are weak enough that 1/4 turn on a set screw can warp them. (Also, the whole design is a little Mickey-Mouse -I'm only 150lb. but if you lean some weight on the end of the outfeed table, you can flex the whole assembly easily.)
I would LOVE a clear step-by-step manual about how to set-up the machine, but the manual I received only covered operation. So far as I can tell, the process is -first, set the outfeed table height to the apex of the knives at the end of the table closest to the hinge. Then, adjust the set screws at the front so the entire width of the table is consistent with the apex of the knives. The SUPER ANNOYING thing is that the set screw has a lock nut, and because the set screw threads are a relatively coarse pitch, the amount of slack in the threads that the lock nut takes up -throws your adjustment off. For example, let's say you get it dialed in with the set screw (even keeping the lock but pretty tight). When you go to cinch the lock nut home (not allowing the set screw to turn), your previously perfect adjustment is now thrown off. The set screws should have a super fine thread pitch, AND they should be hardened (type 8, etc.) because these soft bolts engaging an even softer cast-iron surface is a recipe for disaster.
For the record, my design is a tiny bit different than this newer model but not by much. In the 17 years I've had mine, I've moved it 4-5 times and each time requires an extensive set-up/adjustment. I hate it. It feels like an abusive relationship. But, having a single machine footprint is worth it when you consider what you pay in workshop rent over many years in an expensive real estate market. And, the Tersa head is a dream -which is the main reason I bought it. I do a lot of laminated parts and some salvaged material, and it's such an advantage to be able to throw some older knives in there in less than a minute, and then swap back to sharp ones for clean material. But, I'd never buy another SCM machine. I can't wait to find a used Martin or convert an older Oliver or similar to a newer cutterhead.
Final tip: if you accidentally put a board that's too thick through the planer -drop the table immediately. Recently, a new helper did this and hesitated -not sure what to do. In that short interval, where the feed rollers were stopped, the cutterhead (which engages the friction wheels to drive the feed rollers) wore a deep groove in the friction wheel. It was a HUGE pain to order a replacement from SCM, took many months, and cost almost $300. So, don't do that.
Also, I'm not sure why but the design of the planer/feed rollers prevent you from planing multiple parts side by side (I guess because they're just steel vs. rubber-coated?) so -if you expect to be able to run a bunch of stuff together, forget that... it's only end-to-end.
Hey Plexus, can you make video how you make a bed ??
Will do
If you want to sale that and upgrade to the three phase I’d be interested 😬😬😬
Mrp