Change Ball Joints on Twin I Beam Ford truck F150 250 350
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- Buy Upper Joints HERE -- amzn.to/2abH7Xp
Buy Lower Joints HERE -- amzn.to/2a8nOkt
Buy Camber/Caster Bushing HERE -- amzn.to/2a0lIkW
This video shows how to change the upper and lower ball joints on a Ford F250 but will also apply to F350 F-150 of old body style trucks from roughly 1986 to 1997. Any truck that uses an I-beam suspension. I was replacing the ball joints in this truck because I had a steering wheel "Return to center" problem while making a turn. The culprits in this case was the lower ball joints although they were not loose or clunking they were actually too stiff. Although this is a 2 wheel drive truck the four wheel drive truck replacement is similar. Make sure to check out my other videos covering these Old Body Style, OBS, Fords..
Hey guys this guy is a professional, the video is in HD and he has the right tools. If you want to learn the right way to change your Super Duty upper and lower ball joints spend the 23 minutes and watch this video. Thank you Foxboss9 for the great work.
William Moug 👍😁
Great instruction and illustration on how to change the upper and lower ball joints, as well as your previous video on the caster/camber bushing. Your video helped me save $600. Thank you!
Thank you , Thank You, Thank you. I was about to give up trying to replace the ball joints on my truck myself , but thanks to your video.....Mission accomplished.
5yrs later still helping out with this video I appreciate you posting it
I’m doing them this weekend. Thank you for the video. I’ve replaced a few ball joints on different vehicles, this’ll be the first twin I beam ford I’ve done them on. Thank you for the information.
Finished my front end replacement this past Saturday! Thanks for the video for ball joints and the one for caster/camber replacement. I also changed out the entire steering linkage and also the wheel bearings. All told it took about 12 hours. I took my time to clean up some parts but all in all it went without a hitch. Your videos we’re key in my planning. Have the right tools is a huge factor too; ball joint removal and a pickle fork. Thanks again for the videos!!
Best ball joint video I have ever seen. Nice work Sir!!
Your videos are so awesome because I recently picked up a Ford F-250 Heavy Duty and all of these repairs apply. Thank you.
Thanks for all of your videos. I have a 1995 F-250 4x2 7.5L. You have saved me $'s. Somehow I relate to your energy.
I continue to enjoy your videos , we have a 95 camper special, and being farther into the rust belt (Watkins Glen NY area) definitely have chemical welding on are truck, have changed all calipers and rotors ,had to cut front shocks offs ,to save time on the rear were going to cut the upper mounts off ($9 each on Amazon with prime shipping and included all mounting bolt shocker) the shocks we choose were sky jacker 7000s truck rides like a Cadillac over what are called roads in NY, soon we will be putting the set of hedman headers on we bought from summit now that spring is arriving ( still had 8 inches of snow a week ago) because of rust we waited because we're also replacing front fenders (were the 3rd owners had the truck for a year and it just hit 89k) also did the rear differential cover and was 100% surprised the fill bolt back out with ease . thanks again. for your videos as I like them just for familiarity before I take thinks apart.
Awesome, Us Rusty Trusty drivers need to stick(or unstick) Together!!
I've seen those "roads" you're talking about. Not much better if any here in PA. Also road salt is a killer for those old classic trucks.
Excellent video both in content and camera quality. Thanks for sharing your time and resources... For those in and around the rust belt .. My two cents.... Spray generous amounts of penetrating oil on all fasteners you are going to remove. Do this once a day for three days before you do your ball joint service. Of course this would assume you drive the vehicle daily for the three days .The vibration from driving around will help the penetrating oil work down the bolt threads and soften the dry rust accumulation. Works for me.👍
I have hit the knuckle on my truck at least 100 times and the lower ball joint hasn’t budged. It’s not even rusty I live in GA. I’m at my wits end
Ball joint puller. Go to the auto parts store and rent it for free. Meaning you buy it and then return it for full refund
atf and acetone my man. open up a 1894 winchester 3030 that was sitting under a leaky roof in an old farm house for about 10 years. opened up in 20-30 minutes
Great job my friend.. you really know how to get things over to a guy!
From doing alignments on these ford style balljoints i wouldn't recommend just buying a bushing for the camber caser adjustment. Since they offer a lot of different sizes available with different degrees of adjustment
Thanks for your Videos around working at the Ford F Trucks.
Here in Germany only a few Trucks are on the Road so it´s not easy to get
Informations.
I´m very glad to get Working instructions and Tips wich spare parts you are used.
Thanks a lot and go on.
Greets from Germany
Wolfgang
good tutorial video. I don't have the funds to do this job at the same time as my u joint and brake rotors, so it's good news seeing that these can be done without taking the hubs off. I'm no stranger to ball joints, so I really just needed the dissasembly to make sure I didn't have to go in a second time. Plus, my ball joints don't have slop in them, (wish i could say the same about my u joints haha)
P.S. when installing ball joints, I like to throw mine in the freezer. The metal slightly contracts and 9 times out of 10 you can even just tap them in with a hammer!
edit: just kidding. rip. i have to take the hub apart since its 4x4 haha
Well done, sir. I am currently in the works of changing out my balls joints for my 92 F 150. I will give a piece of advice, DO NOT ORDER from eBay. Sometimes, they do not get it right. Anyway, you make it look so simple.
Yes Ebay is a crap shoot.... That's why I included the links for Amazon..... the pricing is usually so much better on Amazon and they have a much easier return policy and shipping is much faster too.
great job explaining the process
I love the way you explain it!!!! You Rock!
Thanks for this video. Well done! Very straight forward.
Sure thing! Thanks for watching 👍
Yes, the Kroil has been tested as #1 among all the leading Penetrates. I think Liquid Wrench next then PB Blast. Google it!
Ah yes the $25 can that never sprays the last 20% out so you waste $7.14 in product before throwing it away. LOVE how they cannot figure out how pressure works.
thank u for this information was great going about it all the wrong way waisted the day till I watched your video
☑😁
Ball joint is tricky my f150 was tight no play went through state inspection didn't know they was bad until the disassembly
Great video. I’m cringing at the thought of doing this on a 4x4 lol
good camera work, good explanations. nice job.
Joe f. 👍😁
Just wanted to let you know you did a great video on working on ball joints OBS, I've got a 1995 F350 2wd, we are a rare few most of these trucks on RUclips are 4x4. I wasn't sure i could handle doing the ball joints, but after watching you video, I know I can. Again Thanks PS I also watched your other videos as well. :)
j cla Thanks! glad it helped out and I'm always happy to hear the OBS trucks are still out there and are being maintained😀
Suggestion PB BLASTER NIGHT BEFORE, Please SHOW UPPER BALL JOINT GOING DOWN AND TIGHTENING THE UPPER "pinch" nut especially for beginner. Also a Torque wrench is critical for steering, gutentight is sketchy at best. Appreciate the effort! Oh yes the circular ring was called a snap ring back in the day, that Was on lower ball joint, we use to add zerk, fill upper & lower ball joint, remove zerks as to not damage then, this way no need to fill once attached back onto housing. It is difficult to do a repair and record, then doing edits takes even more time! Thank you for the video, this old man was sent back in time!
what a great video triple thumbs up man!the link for the camber caster boushing, is that one of both included?
Seth Moore ball joints are sold each
Very nice video. My 93 f250 truck steering has a mind of its own. Wants to take off in one direction or the other. had alignment checked, no issues there. Found driver side lower ball was lose. Will be replacing it with same moog parts you used. Hope this fixes my problem.
TheIronshaper 😊👍
pretty good video.. i prefer adding leverage through adding anther wrench or cheater bar with a breaker bar and then ratchet instead of hammering a wrench, but other wise thank you for this video, i learned a lot.
Also if you have play in steering check steering shaft slip joint for play ,its right before steering gear has a rubber dust cover over it
oh man, you're just like me pouring drops of sweat everywhere too! good insight, camera angles etc too.
You da man! Thanks good useable video!
great very helpful however I did not get any rubber seals for my lower ball jointsand good luck trying to get them
They should have come with them if originally equipped
The new Moog ball joints have pre installed integral dust boots.
Great job on the ball joints .
But wtf is that on your left wrist?
Is that a big screen TV ?
I bet it has that ole internet.
Knocker loose is some great penetrating oil .
I was thinking the exact same thing.
you're awesome thankyou very much , just bought a 1993 f350 diesel dually. tyvm for the info
Rust wasn't bad. For my truck, it was the grease smeared everywhere. Hands were filthy from trying to get the knuckle back in place....and get that castle nut on.
This method looks wayyy easier than removing the rotor and hub. Why do some people remove that hub? I watched a video where they removed the hub to change the ball joints
obviously this is for 2WD version...
I watched a video of you changing a radius arm on a 1995 Ford F-150 I think I need to know where you got the radius arm no auto part store has it and I can’t find your video I have a 1996 Ford F-150
I think you need a wire wheel and some rusteoleum :-) interesting and good video!
Do pb blaster work? I have an old ford contour (mondeo here) that the driveaxle was frosen in the bearing..i sprayed crc 5-56 on that sucker 3-4 times a day for 3-4 days..nothing had penetrated..
My father use to work as a Millwright at the Chrysler Stamping plant and he had given me a can of industrial penetrant that had always worked,no matter how bad. I cant remember the name on the can is was a black label bordered by yellow with yellow lettering, we just refereed to it as "deep creep".. I finally ran out of it about 12 years ago..
You can still get Deep Creep from industrial supply houses. Pretty good stuff but it can't hold a candle to Aero Kroil. First time you try Kroil, you'll kick yourself for wasting time and money on other penetrants. Cheers!
I'l have to look that up on ebay..from Norway..
I'm doing this along with rotors with 4x4 so I'm in for a huge job. Did this fix your returning problem? I've got an issue where when I lift the vehicle up I can rock the wheel up and down vertically. I've been told thats because of ball joints.
It helped return to center problem... That and a good alignment... Wheel movement while suspended in air could be ball joints for sure
I have a Dana 50 twin I beam 1992 f250....the ball joint press s I am seeing say Dana 30/44. What kind did you use?
Awesome video! I am about to tackle my 96 F250. Is the process the same for a four wheel drive?
Eric Garland should be similar unless it's a kingpin setup..
I love you! Perfect video 11/10¡ thank you so much for the tutorial!
Great video, thank you!!!
Great video, thanks for making this
Thanks for the video.
Thank you for your excelent video i'll do that the right way like you.
so this would be similar to doing my upper and lower ball joints on my 1996 f250 superduty with twin i beam. had to ask i am a woman asking because my 7.3 needs the ball joints replaced and the ford dealerships here are not equipped to replace them.
Jamie Yazzie all 1996 F-Series trucks with I-beam will be the same.
Foxboss9 okay thank you
My local Autozone rents the ball joint tool completely free of charge.
Jack Krinkov so does Advance Auto parts..
I spray every bolt down in wd40 everyday for about a week or two b4 i even attempt to fight them off. it might b over kill but hey what ever gets the job done right.
As always GREAT VIDEO! Thank You!
Very detailed, I believe I have the nerves to do my neighbors f250hd. Thanks and keep up the good work. By the way, do you have any videos on 1981 ford f100 kingpin bushings? Shop want to do them for $600.00, with me supplying the parts. Than, Bobby
Bobby Benn Thanks... Sorry no king pin stuff.. 👍😁
I wonder if it's the same part number for a 97 f250HD 4x4
J Cortes click the link in the description and then it should ask you to enter your vehicle information.
Are these ball joints the ones i need if mine is a twin beam 4x4? Awesome video
Did you ever get an answer to this? I’m preparing to do mine for my TTB 4x4
How heavy is it with out taking the disk rotor off?
Jeffrey Kumjian it's gotta be close to 70 lbs plus it's awkward because the rotor still pivots on the ball joints..
I thank It would be good too take the rotor off before doing the ball joint. Agree?
is it a dana 44 ?
Great video.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you so much! Super helpful.
👍😊
Moog last the longest and Better then Ford?
Moog last long time and much much cheaper than Ford..And in stock locally
great
Forgot E-97 7.3 was the last obs
I sure wish this had captions..I dont hear well.
My 1991 F150 has a. Front end popping noise when i break or first accelerate. Could these ball joints be the problem? I have already replaced berrings and steering arms.
check the bushings on the radius arms..
radius arm video HERE -- ruclips.net/video/uya0_R5TSGU/видео.html
great video thank u so much
thanks Sr
Victor T martinez 👍😁
wouldn't a C-clamp and a big socket work for pushing them out instead of buying the kit?
Yes but a really big C-clamp. Even then most c-clamps don't have a hex head to tighten. But you could. But remember like I said in the video you're not doing anything but buying the kit and returning it for all your money back.
My Twin I Beam Ford doesn't have ball joints.
John Dough king pins
Yep.
The 23 piece kit I got from AutoZone doesn't have the correct installation pieces.
I got mine from Advance auto
Did replacing the ball joints solve your problem?
jumaane butler I've been told it's because of the high-dollar Michelin tires and the profile that is Factory on those for trucks that the truck has a Wandering situation that just can't be resolved unless I go to a wider footprint Tire maybe a lower profile Tire too.. I replace the steering gear box, all the shocks front and rear, also all the sway bar bushings and sway bar end links front and rear, and I have had to separate shops do three wheel alignments. I have talked to other F250 owners that have the old body style Ford and they say that the factory tire combo is just a bad and basically these tires are sort of low rolling resistance so they don't have enough drag to make the steering return the center happen the way that it should... Towing a 6000 pound trailer and on the highway the truck doesn't do near as bad as if it's empty and as far as getting blown around on the highway there's none of that at all..
You might've been good but, Dude, you're just way too long winded. You need to get to the friggen point.
There's too many people out there that need all the details. It's a lot easier for you to fast forward then it is for me to answer every stupid question that comes across RUclips asking why, how, why not, and many other assorted things.