With their poor choice of a name it is no wonder why this company went out of business. The concept they had was on the right path but there were some mistakes in the design along the way as well. If you combine the two you can see why they didn't make it. First and foremost NONE of us high volume reloaders/bullet casters (myself included) waste time melting down LARGE batches of scrap into 1 pound ingots. I pour my bulk ingots into 4# and 11# ingots for storage and ease of operation. I also made and welded my own out of 3/16" x 2 1/2" angle iron that are 8" long and 3 cavities wide each. Could you imagine a full ton or more of lead ingots in 1# bars?! Lol Not only would they be hard to store and be easily knocked over but moving them would take forever. I usually use a 20 quart cast iron Dutch oven heated on a LP 80,000 BTU turbo burner. I use a Rotometals #6 ladle (bottom pour) to do the bulk of my refining of lead scrap. I am planning on building a bottom pour pot of my own, but built to my own specs. I am planning 18" or 20" steel pipe 3/8" thick and about 6" or 8" high with a 3/8" or 1/2" steel bottom I would weld on. The heavy bottom would be cut with a torch or plasma cutter then ground to match the diameter of the pipe. My valve would be made from 1/2" or 5/8" threaded rod with a 45 degree taper on the seating. You would have to lap the final seat shape in with valve lapping compound to get a precise fit. I would fabricate two 3/8" or 1/2" brackets to hold and support the valve both at the top and near the bottom. The one near the bottom is for keeping it in perfect alignment of the spout. You could weld nuts on or you could drill and tap the holes for the threaded rod. The bottom nut or bracket would have no threads and is just there to help align the valve. You either drill the threads out of the bottom nut or drill a bare hole in your custom bottom bracket. Instead of welding a fixed T-handle to the top it would be better to have a nut welded on so you could make a valve tool with a socket that fits the nut and a t-handle or ratchet that fits the socket. That way it wouldn't be setting permanently getting hot while it wasn't needed. For the spout you could use 1/4" or 3/8" Black NPT pipe and fittings. I think 1/2" would be too big and would be hard to precisely control the flow of molten lead. You would have to weld up a stand out of 1/4" x 1 1/2" or 2" angle iron to set everything on and get it up off the ground. Whatever you build is going to be 10x stronger than those cheap sheet metal fish/turkey fryers you can buy. Next you would have to make some dollies on wheels to roll your larger ingot molds around under the discharge pour spout and out of the way to cool.
Great information I have one question I need to melt high volumes of lead I get all of this but what kind of burner do you guys recommend it needs to be more than a turkey cooker thanks for all the great information
@@huxmetalworks7371 The one like I have is $75.99 on Amazon currently. ARC Outdoor Propane Burner Stove, 13" Single Propane Burner, Cast Iron Portable Propane Burner With 0-20 PSI Adjustable Regulator And Stainless Steel Hose, Perfect For Outdoor Wok Burner
50,000 BTU turkey fryer from Menards, Lowe's, Home Depot for about $39.00 - $50.00 if you are trying to save money and are on a budget. 80,000 BTU turbo burner from Amazon for $75.00 if you aren't and want "faster"...."more production".
By far, the best ingot melter I've seem.
Are you still producing these? If so, where do I find information for purchasing? Thanks
I've heard that company went out of business.
I'm purchasing off this camical
Great video. Where did you purchase that. I’ve been trying to find one
I believe the company went out of business. It was Satan's Little Smelter
Is that digital night urban camo that I am seeing?
With their poor choice of a name it is no wonder why this company went out of business. The concept they had was on the right path but there were some mistakes in the design along the way as well. If you combine the two you can see why they didn't make it. First and foremost NONE of us high volume reloaders/bullet casters (myself included) waste time melting down LARGE batches of scrap into 1 pound ingots. I pour my bulk ingots into 4# and 11# ingots for storage and ease of operation. I also made and welded my own out of 3/16" x 2 1/2" angle iron that are 8" long and 3 cavities wide each. Could you imagine a full ton or more of lead ingots in 1# bars?! Lol Not only would they be hard to store and be easily knocked over but moving them would take forever. I usually use a 20 quart cast iron Dutch oven heated on a LP 80,000 BTU turbo burner. I use a Rotometals #6 ladle (bottom pour) to do the bulk of my refining of lead scrap.
I am planning on building a bottom pour pot of my own, but built to my own specs. I am planning 18" or 20" steel pipe 3/8" thick and about 6" or 8" high with a 3/8" or 1/2" steel bottom I would weld on. The heavy bottom would be cut with a torch or plasma cutter then ground to match the diameter of the pipe. My valve would be made from 1/2" or 5/8" threaded rod with a 45 degree taper on the seating. You would have to lap the final seat shape in with valve lapping compound to get a precise fit. I would fabricate two 3/8" or 1/2" brackets to hold and support the valve both at the top and near the bottom. The one near the bottom is for keeping it in perfect alignment of the spout. You could weld nuts on or you could drill and tap the holes for the threaded rod. The bottom nut or bracket would have no threads and is just there to help align the valve. You either drill the threads out of the bottom nut or drill a bare hole in your custom bottom bracket.
Instead of welding a fixed T-handle to the top it would be better to have a nut welded on so you could make a valve tool with a socket that fits the nut and a t-handle or ratchet that fits the socket. That way it wouldn't be setting permanently getting hot while it wasn't needed. For the spout you could use 1/4" or 3/8" Black NPT pipe and fittings. I think 1/2" would be too big and would be hard to precisely control the flow of molten lead. You would have to weld up a stand out of 1/4" x 1 1/2" or 2" angle iron to set everything on and get it up off the ground. Whatever you build is going to be 10x stronger than those cheap sheet metal fish/turkey fryers you can buy. Next you would have to make some dollies on wheels to roll your larger ingot molds around under the discharge pour spout and out of the way to cool.
Great information I have one question I need to melt high volumes of lead I get all of this but what kind of burner do you guys recommend it needs to be more than a turkey cooker thanks for all the great information
@@huxmetalworks7371
The one like I have is $75.99 on Amazon currently.
ARC Outdoor Propane Burner Stove, 13" Single Propane Burner, Cast Iron Portable Propane Burner With 0-20 PSI Adjustable Regulator And Stainless Steel Hose, Perfect For Outdoor Wok Burner
@@huxmetalworks7371
80,000 BTU turbo burner from Amazon.
$75.00 currently
50,000 BTU turkey fryer from Menards, Lowe's, Home Depot for about $39.00 - $50.00 if you are trying to save money and are on a budget.
80,000 BTU turbo burner from Amazon for $75.00 if you aren't and want "faster"...."more production".
What is the name of camical
Hello, what materials did you mix with lead?
I was melting lead shot. I use candle wax and sawdust to clean the lead.
Thanks
Plz tell me
Galena? What's the flux that use
Caning wax and wood shavings.
@@ericwertz419so you didn't use soda ash?
@@karlscraft6631 No.
@@ericwertz419 thank you sir..caning wax & shaving wood? What is that? How about the temperature to get that lead from galena ore?
@@karlscraft6631 Saw dust is another for wood shavings. Lead melts at 500 degrees or more.