Great technique. You can also add bubbling rust by sprinkling fine stone powder where rust would be bad like door corners and dabbing it with rust coloured paint.
Have you ever tried using Hairspray or Chipping Fluid? It would make the weathering a lot easier by requiring less sanding to break through the layers. You just black base it as usual then spray it with Chipping Fluid or Hairspray, then paint it as usual and when it's time to weather it lightly wet sand it, the water will help loosen the Chipping medium and reveal the layers. I really like this resin cast body, it's the trunk/rear quarter panels that make it. 👍👍
Forgot to mention that after you've sanded it to where you like it to seal it with a matte varnish/sealer before doing your final weathering or else you could expose more of the chipping medium to moisture and it will expose more of the layers than you may want. 👌
3 coats Light Metal Grey, 2 light Coats Off White, then 2 coats there on of the Paint job History of Your Choice. Vary the Grit usage spiratically once it loiks knackered use an M3 buff Pad to blend the Grit varient and then use a Spray Bottle to apply dirty Water colour. Once dried keep Layering till the weathering is where Your at. Quick Buff pad again and then Matte Clear coat. Optional when the Clear coat is Tacky throw some Mixed Yellow, Red, and Multi Brown Pastel dust at it to give Live Dirt effect. Looks EPIC when done. Clear coat between Dusting Layers so if Ya like a Previous part and think youve wrecked it You can buff it out
Newbie here, I'm planning to make some 1/64th scale 30's car fur my brothers railroad layout. Will this work will on a black car. A lot of the cars in the 30's are black. Seen some great photos on google. Currently the die cast is white, going to strip it down to bear metal. Thanks for the great video and your techniques
It acts a little different on black paint. I have a build coming up the first of the year that I do in black that may help. But even just the rust streaks over a matte or satin black really gives it the right look, and I imagine at that scale car it would look great.
Man you e inspired me to try to weather or patina my first hard body. I applied the fist layer of black waited 5 hours and did next color or flat brick red. My question is how long do I wait to do a wet sand to bring the black through before I apply final color? I know temp and humidity play a toll in cute time but kinda just looking for a ball park idea so I don’t screw this up. Love your work and hope to get to your level one day.
The longer you can wait the better, I still rush everything to a fault. At least overnight should be plenty. The good thing about patina is its really hard to mess up. Once you start wetsanding youll know if it is dry enough, if it needs more time it will gum up the sandpaper still. It all depends on how thick a coat you applied as well. Just remember, no stress, its not shiny! Have fun with it and once you get to the final color for sanding, less is more is the absolute best advice.
@ man I’m so inpatient it makes my life hard and for sone reason I never learn and slow down. Where do you find that stuff you brushed on and wiped off?
The ak rust streaks. A lot of hobbytowns sell it but it’s on amazon as well. Just be careful if you are using rustoleum paint. I use a vht high temp satin clear once I’ve sanded everything to seal it. The rust streaks will strip the rustoleum right off without it. It’s available at autozone and oreillys. Discovered it by accident and it has really improved the finish a ton. Adds depth to the color while protecting the paint from the streaks.
@@RCeveryday thanks for all the input. I’ll get that vht tomorrow and I just ordered the AK rust probably just let the body sit till next weekend that I know it’s dry enough and I’ll have all the supplies I need.
That is a solid plan, itll be fully cured and ready to go without a doubt then. Good luck with it and remember, less is more, at least on the final layer of sanding, lol
It could, for lexan you have to scuff the outside of the body very good to get paint to attach. Check out my videos on the redcat hauler, I repainted all the lexan on the outside and weathered it.
Tamiya paints are very fine spraying and very durable. If you are going to do a patina style paint job I wouldnt. The few times I tried it doesnt sand through easily enough. Going shiny or solid color tamiya all the way
@@RCeveryday I’m planning to do the pizza planet truck from Toy Story which would require a weathered yellow color with rust and dents. Would that be considered patina? If so what kind of paint do you use? Up until now I’m only familiar with lexan bodies so pardon my ignorance
Rust and dents would be patina. Most of what I have done is a bit more extreme patina compared to the pizza planet truck. There are a ton of great videos on faded and peeling paint effects from the model railroaders on youtube. Chipping fluid and or the hair spray effect would fit the bill. Ive not done any of that yet, but some great videos on it out there.
That IS Bob Ross ! Did you say that was printed? I used this technique years ago, but since the invention of the interweb, literally 5000 ways to weathering, so confusing thank you for reminding me of how this should be done, and just about the same in real life, From Ocala Florida
I’ve started using the vht flame proof matte clear on all of mine before the rust streaks. Seals it and adds some depth. Allows you more time to adjust the rust to your liking too.
would those weathering/rust wash colors work over a matte black finish? i have an Element Enduro with the scratch n wear finish (matte black w brick red underneath), but i would like to put more effort into it instead of just sanding off the black. thanks for any help!
I love the tiny black spots all over. Looks like you would expect on a car that's been painted several times and then sat in a junkyard for 50 years!
I love using AK’s streaking grime.
Great technique. You can also add bubbling rust by sprinkling fine stone powder where rust would be bad like door corners and dabbing it with rust coloured paint.
It looks great, I'll be applying your techniques in my next project. Thanks
Have you ever tried using Hairspray or Chipping Fluid? It would make the weathering a lot easier by requiring less sanding to break through the layers.
You just black base it as usual then spray it with Chipping Fluid or Hairspray, then paint it as usual and when it's time to weather it lightly wet sand it, the water will help loosen the Chipping medium and reveal the layers.
I really like this resin cast body, it's the trunk/rear quarter panels that make it. 👍👍
Ive got some chipping stuff, just havent tried it yet. Honestly I keep forgetting lol
Forgot to mention that after you've sanded it to where you like it to seal it with a matte varnish/sealer before doing your final weathering or else you could expose more of the chipping medium to moisture and it will expose more of the layers than you may want. 👌
All I want to know is that Bob Ross in the corner, and when will he start painting happy trees and happy mountains?? Nice work!
Yeah turned out beautiful dude as always, I really like the Coop body just don’t know what kind of chassis would work with Yep I’m here watching
It looks super good. 1 of the best yet
Heck yeah, I’d buy the kit for the five window coupe 👍👍😎 well I’ll catch you on the next one until then peace and chicken grease 😁👍👍😎
3 coats Light Metal Grey, 2 light Coats Off White, then 2 coats there on of the Paint job History of Your Choice. Vary the Grit usage spiratically once it loiks knackered use an M3 buff Pad to blend the Grit varient and then use a Spray Bottle to apply dirty Water colour. Once dried keep Layering till the weathering is where Your at. Quick Buff pad again and then Matte Clear coat. Optional when the Clear coat is Tacky throw some Mixed Yellow, Red, and Multi Brown Pastel dust at it to give Live Dirt effect. Looks EPIC when done. Clear coat between Dusting Layers so if Ya like a Previous part and think youve wrecked it You can buff it out
Newbie here, I'm planning to make some 1/64th scale 30's car fur my brothers railroad layout. Will this work will on a black car. A lot of the cars in the 30's are black. Seen some great photos on google. Currently the die cast is white, going to strip it down to bear metal.
Thanks for the great video and your techniques
It acts a little different on black paint. I have a build coming up the first of the year that I do in black that may help. But even just the rust streaks over a matte or satin black really gives it the right look, and I imagine at that scale car it would look great.
I actually mean "Off" white. Years ago Pure White was concidered a Premium Color for finish so it was More of a Creamy White Primer.
Looks great 🎉
Man you e inspired me to try to weather or patina my first hard body. I applied the fist layer of black waited 5 hours and did next color or flat brick red. My question is how long do I wait to do a wet sand to bring the black through before I apply final color? I know temp and humidity play a toll in cute time but kinda just looking for a ball park idea so I don’t screw this up. Love your work and hope to get to your level one day.
The longer you can wait the better, I still rush everything to a fault. At least overnight should be plenty. The good thing about patina is its really hard to mess up. Once you start wetsanding youll know if it is dry enough, if it needs more time it will gum up the sandpaper still. It all depends on how thick a coat you applied as well. Just remember, no stress, its not shiny! Have fun with it and once you get to the final color for sanding, less is more is the absolute best advice.
@ man I’m so inpatient it makes my life hard and for sone reason I never learn and slow down. Where do you find that stuff you brushed on and wiped off?
The ak rust streaks. A lot of hobbytowns sell it but it’s on amazon as well. Just be careful if you are using rustoleum paint. I use a vht high temp satin clear once I’ve sanded everything to seal it. The rust streaks will strip the rustoleum right off without it. It’s available at autozone and oreillys. Discovered it by accident and it has really improved the finish a ton. Adds depth to the color while protecting the paint from the streaks.
@@RCeveryday thanks for all the input. I’ll get that vht tomorrow and I just ordered the AK rust probably just let the body sit till next weekend that I know it’s dry enough and I’ll have all the supplies I need.
That is a solid plan, itll be fully cured and ready to go without a doubt then. Good luck with it and remember, less is more, at least on the final layer of sanding, lol
Would this work on the standard Lexan RC body or is it to flimsy and just chip off?
It could, for lexan you have to scuff the outside of the body very good to get paint to attach. Check out my videos on the redcat hauler, I repainted all the lexan on the outside and weathered it.
@ I will. Thank you!
Looks sweet. I’m about to paint my first rc4wd hard body and not sure if I need to use tamiya?
Tamiya paints are very fine spraying and very durable. If you are going to do a patina style paint job I wouldnt. The few times I tried it doesnt sand through easily enough. Going shiny or solid color tamiya all the way
@@RCeveryday I’m planning to do the pizza planet truck from Toy Story which would require a weathered yellow color with rust and dents. Would that be considered patina? If so what kind of paint do you use? Up until now I’m only familiar with lexan bodies so pardon my ignorance
I’m also wondering which yellow I should use for a weathered and faded peeling yellow. Appreciate the help!
Rust and dents would be patina. Most of what I have done is a bit more extreme patina compared to the pizza planet truck. There are a ton of great videos on faded and peeling paint effects from the model railroaders on youtube. Chipping fluid and or the hair spray effect would fit the bill. Ive not done any of that yet, but some great videos on it out there.
@@RCeverydaywhat was the purpose of sanding the red primer, is that just to thin it down a little bit for later?
That came out pretty good!.
That IS Bob Ross ! Did you say that was printed? I used this technique years ago, but since the invention of the interweb, literally 5000 ways to weathering, so confusing thank you for reminding me of how this should be done, and just about the same in real life, From Ocala Florida
I'm about to use the all rest streak but it seems to be removing the paint in the test piece any tips?
I’ve started using the vht flame proof matte clear on all of mine before the rust streaks. Seals it and adds some depth. Allows you more time to adjust the rust to your liking too.
Are you mixing it with mineral spirits at all?
The rust streaks? I use it straight out of the bottle.
would those weathering/rust wash colors work over a matte black finish? i have an Element Enduro with the scratch n wear finish (matte black w brick red underneath), but i would like to put more effort into it instead of just sanding off the black. thanks for any help!
You could. It would be more subtle over that finish.
That looks incredible, as always! Will your kits eventually be cast as well?
I doubt I’ll do my kits in resin casting. Hope to eventually have them injection molded like Rc4wd bodies though.
@@RCeveryday That'd be awesome!
Would you recommend this same process on a factory Marlin Crawler body? I’m bored with the red body.
Yes it would work well on that. Since that body is smoother it would take less sanding too.
Very helpful thank you.
Looks good..
Great video. Love the result. ❤️💯
Hey.. your awesome
Will this body fit on your shorty kit thanks
It doesn’t work in the kit chassis without modification. The rear step of the frame is too big to fit under the trunk.
Great video man!! I’ve been wanting to try my hand at a patina body and this technique seems like a great place to start! 🦾🦾🦾