12:31 after removing the rocker arms you need to smack the side of the valve retainer with a dead blow hammer so the valve gets seated. Then you won’t hear an air leak. Plus after hitting the retainer, it will loosen the keeper locks. When installing the small oil seal on the 2nd groove, you do it when your compressing the spring down using a wooden coffee stir stick. Why, because if you install it before the spring then you have a great chance of tearing it when compressing the spring and this is why you can’t use a 1 handed compress tool as seen here. You need either the 2 claw spring compressor tool or the 1 arm bandit tool. Do not spin the pushrod when locating 0 lash, it’s not accurate compared to the up/down movement. Once 0 lash is set, turn nut 1/2 turn for performance. GM liked 3/4 turn from 0 lash so the customer didn’t complain about chatter. IMO 3/4 to 1 turn is way too tight. 23:44 set the 1/2 turn on the nut now. Or if not running use the EOIC method. If setting running, the get an old valve cover and cut the top area for an access hole for your socket or use cardboard as your oil dam on the lower part of the head.
I like your additional input, but don't understand the coffee stir stick part. ....yeah, I know this was a while back. One more.... ...on an old head, one that probably needs a full rebuild, would you use both the O-ring and the umbrella seals? I've read every combo possible.
Started mine 2days ago got spring tool was junk so I made one power steering pump had to come off got a pulley puller I saved time made another spring tool someone was in the motor spring caps few upsidedown I'm going to do one at a time great vidio great timing to see it you're great..
Pro Tip: Check your push rods while you're at it. I had a plugged one. A week after doing the valve seals it started ticking again because oil wasn't being pushed up through the hollow push rod.
Hey bud there is an easier way to do this that ensures the valve doesn't fall down I. The bore... takes a bit longer but way safer. Run about a 3 foot length of old spark plug wire in the sp hole whilst the engine is at TDC bang no worries mate
When you install the new o-ring oill seal onto the valve you did it wrong. The oring must be installed after the spring because the spring will push the oring down and out of the lower groove on the valve and not seal anything. It won't cut it it'll push it down rendering it useless. It needs to go on top of the spring and get sandwiched in from the top to form a seal otherwise it's completely useless and does nothing. That's why they developed the umbrella seals because even if you don't know what you're doing they will seal. If you noticed that every single o-ring you removed was cut in half, that's because I'm correct in saying that when you push the valve spring down over top of that oring once it's on the valve it will push the oring out of the valve and cut in half if it's old and brittle or if it's new it'll just push it further down the valve. Again install your spring and then put the o-ring on top so it gets sandwiched between the valve in the spring retainer creating a seal so the oil runs overtop the valve and spring retainer as designed and NOT down between the valve and spring retainer. Again this is one of the reasons why they made the umbrella type seal because with the umbrella type seal you don't need the o-ring.
This is good advice. I’m doing valve seals on my old SBC and if you put the o ring on first the spring hat will 100% push it down past where it sits on the valve stem.
I appreciate that info, not needing the O-ring. I called Felpro and the tech guy said umbrella on both sides but no O-ring. He had two part numbers with the exhaust receiving a Viton umbrella because of the heat. 👍
If I've already done some like this, with the umbrella seals and the o-ring before spring, will the pushed down o' rings cause any detrimental effects? I'm really hesitant to open them back up after the fact given the time it took, and all intake and exhausts have umbrella now
@@EkulGgats no Eric you'll be ok if you installed some orings (incorrectly) AND the umbrella seals. The umbrella seals will be doing all the work sealing the valve and guide clearance. The worst thing is the o-ring will disintegrate and lay in there.. just as it would after a bunch of miles from the factory build.
@roberts5118 Since the umbrella seals do all the work, would it be ok to just leave the o-rings out entirely or do they absolutely have to be installed from the top of the spring?
Enjoy the video. Very informative. Some constructive criticism, you don't have to play the music so loud when you're not talking. When I turn the volume up where I can hear you perfect and then the music comes on its blasting. Just thought I'd let you know
Him turning the crank 180 degrees while the rockers were removed and the engine at TDC cannot possibly make him loose pressure. With the rockers removed the valves are closed and should seal regardless of the piston being at TDC or ANY position! He can rotate the piston to any position and it should hold pressure because the valves are closed since there is no rocker arm to open them.
Thanks for the video. I have an '89 305 that I need to do this on. May be a silly question; but do you think a smaller pancake compressor would have enough capacity to do the job?
I don’t understand why you wouldn’t leave the piston at TDC for the cylinder you’re working on. If the valve slipped somehow it’s not gonna disappear. If the piston is at the bottom then you’ll definitely lose valves.
If it's not perfectly at TDC, the piston will immediately go down. Heaven forbid if you left a ratchet or breaker bar on the crank bolt. ......WHACK!!!
I thought maybe you can help me . I have 2003 dodge caravan, bluish white smoke comes out the tail pipe. But only when you idle the car for 5 or 10 minutes and then you rev it, thats when the blue smoke comes out. No blue smoke during start up.does that still mean the valve seals are worn out?
I did this to '88 Chevy truck, several years ago. I am doing it again to another 350. I have watched a few videos, jut to refresh my memory, It seems to me, everyone is making the same mistake. The hose I have going into my cylinder is from my compression tester. It has a Schrader valve in the end of it. If you don't remove that, you're gonna be in trouble me thinks.
I would have added zinc as all flat tappit cams need zinc they don’t put in oil any more not needed they say since 80 I think the oil formula changed . Jut a thought
Beings back memories from the 60s for me. I used clips on the rockers to contain the oil so you could adjust the rockers with the engine running..As I recall the procedure called for establishing zero clearance and the 3/4 turn clockwise to get the lifter in the center of it's travel..
My car BMW Serie1 116d 2012 190k km. It is burning oil 800g every 800km. There is no liking There is no smoke at all, black o blue There is no oil in the exhausted Engine behave pretty normal what Flippen is?
Bought it, and sold it back to him ? WTF!!! This is your dad!!! You buy it and over pay, then you fix it and give it back!!!! That is what I did for my son !!!
Авто/Мото
12:31 after removing the rocker arms you need to smack the side of the valve retainer with a dead blow hammer so the valve gets seated. Then you won’t hear an air leak. Plus after hitting the retainer, it will loosen the keeper locks. When installing the small oil seal on the 2nd groove, you do it when your compressing the spring down using a wooden coffee stir stick. Why, because if you install it before the spring then you have a great chance of tearing it when compressing the spring and this is why you can’t use a 1 handed compress tool as seen here. You need either the 2 claw spring compressor tool or the 1 arm bandit tool.
Do not spin the pushrod when locating 0 lash, it’s not accurate compared to the up/down movement. Once 0 lash is set, turn nut 1/2 turn for performance. GM liked 3/4 turn from 0 lash so the customer didn’t complain about chatter. IMO 3/4 to 1 turn is way too tight.
23:44 set the 1/2 turn on the nut now. Or if not running use the EOIC method. If setting running, the get an old valve cover and cut the top area for an access hole for your socket or use cardboard as your oil dam on the lower part of the head.
Appreciate your comment 👍 ima be doing this for the first time
I like your additional input, but don't understand the coffee stir stick part.
....yeah, I know this was a while back.
One more....
...on an old head, one that probably needs a full rebuild, would you use both the O-ring and the umbrella seals? I've read every combo possible.
Started mine 2days ago got spring tool was junk so I made one power steering pump had to come off got a pulley puller I saved time made another spring tool someone was in the motor spring caps few upsidedown I'm going to do one at a time great vidio great timing to see it you're great..
Pro Tip: Check your push rods while you're at it. I had a plugged one. A week after doing the valve seals it started ticking again because oil wasn't being pushed up through the hollow push rod.
Hey bud there is an easier way to do this that ensures the valve doesn't fall down I. The bore... takes a bit longer but way safer.
Run about a 3 foot length of old spark plug wire in the sp hole whilst the engine is at TDC bang no worries mate
When you install the new o-ring oill seal onto the valve you did it wrong. The oring must be installed after the spring because the spring will push the oring down and out of the lower groove on the valve and not seal anything. It won't cut it it'll push it down rendering it useless. It needs to go on top of the spring and get sandwiched in from the top to form a seal otherwise it's completely useless and does nothing. That's why they developed the umbrella seals because even if you don't know what you're doing they will seal. If you noticed that every single o-ring you removed was cut in half, that's because I'm correct in saying that when you push the valve spring down over top of that oring once it's on the valve it will push the oring out of the valve and cut in half if it's old and brittle or if it's new it'll just push it further down the valve. Again install your spring and then put the o-ring on top so it gets sandwiched between the valve in the spring retainer creating a seal so the oil runs overtop the valve and spring retainer as designed and NOT down between the valve and spring retainer. Again this is one of the reasons why they made the umbrella type seal because with the umbrella type seal you don't need the o-ring.
This is good advice. I’m doing valve seals on my old SBC and if you put the o ring on first the spring hat will 100% push it down past where it sits on the valve stem.
I appreciate that info, not needing the O-ring. I called Felpro and the tech guy said umbrella on both sides but no O-ring.
He had two part numbers with the exhaust receiving a Viton umbrella because of the heat. 👍
If I've already done some like this, with the umbrella seals and the o-ring before spring, will the pushed down o' rings cause any detrimental effects? I'm really hesitant to open them back up after the fact given the time it took, and all intake and exhausts have umbrella now
@@EkulGgats no Eric you'll be ok if you installed some orings (incorrectly) AND the umbrella seals. The umbrella seals will be doing all the work sealing the valve and guide clearance. The worst thing is the o-ring will disintegrate and lay in there.. just as it would after a bunch of miles from the factory build.
@roberts5118 Since the umbrella seals do all the work, would it be ok to just leave the o-rings out entirely or do they absolutely have to be installed from the top of the spring?
New carb too lol
Enjoy the video. Very informative. Some constructive criticism, you don't have to play the music so loud when you're not talking. When I turn the volume up where I can hear you perfect and then the music comes on its blasting. Just thought I'd let you know
if you already know what to do... this makes sense. To a passing 'tourist' it makes no sense at all ...
How many psi did it take to hold the valve. 60psi isn’t working on mine
I think him turning the crank 180 degrees after the engine was already at TDC is what made him loose pressure.
Him turning the crank 180 degrees while the rockers were removed and the engine at TDC cannot possibly make him loose pressure. With the rockers removed the valves are closed and should seal regardless of the piston being at TDC or ANY position! He can rotate the piston to any position and it should hold pressure because the valves are closed since there is no rocker arm to open them.
Thanks for the video. I have an '89 305 that I need to do this on. May be a silly question; but do you think a smaller pancake compressor would have enough capacity to do the job?
I don’t understand why you wouldn’t leave the piston at TDC for the cylinder you’re working on. If the valve slipped somehow it’s not gonna disappear. If the piston is at the bottom then you’ll definitely lose valves.
If it's not perfectly at TDC, the piston will immediately go down.
Heaven forbid if you left a ratchet or breaker bar on the crank bolt.
......WHACK!!!
I thought maybe you can help me . I have 2003 dodge caravan, bluish white smoke comes out the tail pipe. But only when you idle the car for 5 or 10 minutes and then you rev it, thats when the blue smoke comes out. No blue smoke during start up.does that still mean the valve seals are worn out?
Thank you random internet man
I’ve ton a ton of these but I put cap back on instead of ring
Air it up and get it done
my 305 does not have these stem seals do they need them . i actually have 2 305s never been rebuilt and neither has these seals
Did you set the rockers while at top dead centet on that cylinder?
how you identify its have a bad seal
I did this to '88 Chevy truck, several years ago. I am doing it again to another 350. I have watched a few videos, jut to refresh my memory, It seems to me, everyone is making the same mistake. The hose I have going into my cylinder is from my compression tester. It has a Schrader valve in the end of it. If you don't remove that, you're gonna be in trouble me thinks.
I would have added zinc as all flat tappit cams need zinc they don’t put in oil any more not needed they say since 80 I think the oil formula changed . Jut a thought
Your suppose to put the o ring on after the spring
I enjoy Ed watching learned a lot now I think I try to replace my seals thanks much
Best to use cap type seal and not oring
i know its old video but never put o rings on first you risk tearing them they go on after the spring is put down
Where did you get that spring compressor bar??? Thing looks handy
Beings back memories from the 60s for me. I used clips on the rockers to contain the oil so you could adjust the rockers with the engine running..As I recall the procedure called for establishing zero clearance and the 3/4 turn clockwise to get the lifter in the center of it's travel..
Do you want to sell it?
My car BMW Serie1 116d 2012 190k km. It is burning oil 800g every 800km.
There is no liking
There is no smoke at all, black o blue
There is no oil in the exhausted
Engine behave pretty normal
what Flippen is?
1st time wrencher
Bought it, and sold it back to him ? WTF!!! This is your dad!!! You buy it and over pay, then you fix it and give it back!!!! That is what I did for my son !!!
the old truck will live an other 20 years ,I would rather rebuild that whole truck then make payments on a new piece of computerized crap .
My Chevy is hamster-powered
If you don't even change your oil, how do you expect to have any credibility at any level of automotive maintenance or repair..?