I've watched a few of these videos about replacing valve seals and other DIY auto projects and I have to say. Your video was one of the best one I've seen. You don't repeat yourself just to hear yourself talk you didn't get sidetracked about other projects you didn't make us watch useless video like taking off the valve covers (you got right to the point.) Perfect!! And because of that, I subscribed and liked and I'll definitely watch your videos again.
Gotta do mine on my yukon, driver side head is good but passenger side needs replacing especially the first two cylinders. I know this because when i pulled my plugs those two had the most build up, the plugs on the driver's side were perfect.
I used those seals but they were garbage and leaked over time. I wound up putting on L31 / LT1 style valve stem seals. Yes they fit on the TBI heads. I just put each cylinder to TDC and let the valve drop and hit the piston. Was easy just took alot of time
@@SuburbanRanch Well.... Yours looked 100% rotted I noticed a slight puff sometimes after I dunno. 6-7500 or so miles. I forget. Did the job again. Used the LT1/ l31 seals and put on all new valve springs. TDC is awesome you can swap 2 cylinders at a time w/o repositioning the crank.
Thought I had to remove the heads and stuff. This looks like an easy job with the right tools. I'll consider doing this to my Iroc! Thanks for this video, really helpful!
Valve lash needs to be set in order and engine needs to be started on top dead center on 1 cylinder then rotated and reset 90 degrees as you go in order for each valve
Good catch. That's how I set my lash - every 90 degrees in the firing order. You have to be on TDC on the cylinder your setting the lash on. He leaves that part out.
So what is the PSI pressure in the spark plug hole? and where do i get a pressure hose with the two different ends like you are using in this video, spark plug hole and air hose fitting
Ty for this video. About to tackle this project on my 97 Silverado. Just wondering what type of air compressor was used to keep the valve from falling down. I have a little cheap 80psi compressor. Not sure it'll keep continuous pressure while swapping the seals out tho.
Thank you for the video, very helpful. I think I need to replace the valve stem seals on my 92, on cold startup it smokes for a couple minutes and when I rev it throws bluish smoke out the pipe so a bit of oil is entering the combustion chamber, once it’s fully warmed up it doesn’t smoke so i’m definitely sure it’s the valve stem seals because I don’t think it could be piston rings the spark plugs are clean no oil on them or the head gaskets there’s no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. It’s a 350 with only 127k miles so do you think it’s the valve stem seals?
I have a question on the exhaust seal.. do you just push down till it bottoms out or do you have to use a tool and hammer to compress down like the intake valve? Really need you help on that. Thanks!
Awesome video! I have a 1990 K1500 5.7 with TBI. In choosing valve stem seals for my truck/engine, would the same valve seal kits that you used work for my truck as well?
Looking to replace my valve seals on my 88” project truck. This will be my biggest DIY mechanic job lol. I had a few questions, how do you rotate the motor and how do you know when the piston is top dead center? And where do you get that hose to connect to the compressor to the spark plug thread? Any certain psi it should be on? Thanks!
Rotate the motor using a socket on the crank bolt, use the alignment mark on the damper to find cylinder 1 TDC and rotate 90 degrees from there, link to the hose is in the description, and I usually run my compressor around 90-100 psi.
I have a 350 ZZ4 86 on. When my heads were skimmed and refreshed they put the blue seals you used on exhaust and inlet. I've noticed that 1 or 2 of them are partially lifting. Do they need replacing again? And which ones should I use on inlet and exhaust. Thanks.
@Jason Mellinship They used the same seals on intake and exhaust? That seems odd. I would expect different seals. The intake seal needs to be much tighter to prevent oil from being sucked in.
@Suburban Ranch Thanks for your reply. The machine shop put the same seals on the exhaust. In the Reinz kit I had there was 8 inlet with the metal rings and 8 umbrella type, those, I'm guessing, should have gone on the inlet. The ZZ4 has the late 80s alloy heads.
Great information but I have a question.... What happens if oil intrudes at the bottom of the valve stem seal where it sits on the valve guide? Are the valve stem seals also sealed inside or is it just on top?
Big fan of the series u are doing on k1500. I have a 98 k1500. Going to do this valve job on mine soon. How big of an air compressor do I need to complete this job?
I have a Chevy 88 s10 2.5 and replacing the gasket but I can’t figure out we’re the washers go and the Load spacers go and mine is a flat surface cover
I’m gonna replace seals today. I have been mechanicing for many years but never had to deal with rocker arms and adjusting valves. Lemme get this straight…i put the rocker arms back on and tighten until they are just snugged up to the valve stems and push rods, then turn 1 full turn in order to compress the lifter slightly below its keeper clip. Doesnt matter what stroke the cylinders are on..right? As long as i snug and tighten 1full turn. Right?
@scooter The position of each cylinder is important. The valves need to be closed on the cylinder you are adjusting. You need to take up the slack in the pushrod (this is done by feel, wiggling it up and down) and then go another 1/2 to full turn.
I did this to '88 Chevy truck, several years ago. I am doing it again to another 350. I have watched a few videos, jut to refresh my memory, It seems to me, everyone is making the same mistake. The hose I have going into my cylinder is from my compression tester. It has a Schrader valve in the end of it. If you don't remove that, you're gonna be in trouble me thinks.
You said you did the the first 2 off video so is the front 1 always the intake seal and the 1 next to it always the exhaust seal all the way down the line?
Ok so I'm doing mine as we speak. Problem is that my 6 gallon 150psi air compressor drops down to 35psi when connected to hold valves up. Am I doing something wrong? I do have my piston up.
The intake seal looks like a positive seal. Why doesn't the exhaust seal visually look the same. (Ive got an '88 4.3 and assuming it uses the same seals as a V8) ...im not talking sbout the color difference. It doesn't have the metal band like the intake. Great video. Also.... Isnt there quite a risk if you don't get the piston at exactly TDC and having the piston forced down when you apply pressure?
The exhaust seal is never under suction like the intake seal is. You definitely want to be careful not to drop a valve into the cylinder when changing the seals!
Thanks for the video..my 93 suburban has about 270,000 miles and does smoke alot at crank up and does smoke for a minute or so but not as I'm driving down the road and it seems strong even with 37's and stock gears...I hope the piston rings ar good because I cannot afford a new engine
Hate to break it to you but with that many miles you will need to afford a new car. If you get a little 4 cylinder you might have the same payment seeing as the suburban gets 12 MPG
@Steve Wolff We just gently pushed the o-ring into the second groove on the valve stem. The reason it was not in the video is because you couldn’t see anything except a hand and fingers haha. I think we said we’d get a better shot on the next one and never filmed it... if it gets into the first groove it slides out pretty easily down to the second groove.
I have a 99 K1500 GMC suburban and it appears the parts should be the same but the seals you list are listed as not fitting my vehicle. Curious why you list two different seals and not just one, should the seals for the intake and exhaust be the same?
@Nachoman The exhaust and intake valve seals are different. The exhaust valve seal is an umbrella style seal and the intake seal fits much tighter as it needs to seal against the engine sucking oil in on the intake stroke.
@@SuburbanRanch OK thanks, I found FEL-PRO SS 72861 which says it fits mine for intake/exhaust, but in the picture they all like the same guess maybe just the picture.
@@igende the intake and exhaust are the same on vortec heads which is what you have in a 99 suburban. That truck he is working on is a throttle body truck which does not have vortec heads.
What grade of motor oil do you put in? I have a 1995 cheyenne 305 tbi 5.0-liter manual transmission 240 thousand miles I do not have the vehicle manual nor do I know what manual gear oil carries the climate where I live is warm. in winter it is 71.6 Fahrenheit
@Wesley Voltage Just a backup in case the compressor fails I guess. Holding up great so far but we haven’t driven it a ton as we started other projects on it.
@Patrick R I’m not sure exactly what it’s call other than o-ring. Our seal set came with them. The part number is in the description, maybe you can get it from that?
I did the drivers side of valve seals without any issues, however when I got to the last one the air compressor would not push up the valve enough to put the new seal on. So I moved onto the passenger side and ran into the same problem. Anyone got any tips/tricks?
You can put some nylon rope in the cylinder through the plug hole , rotate the engine to compress the rope and it holds the valves closed. Then rotate back and remove the rope when you finish.
My dodge spew out smoke only when you park and idle it for 5 or 10 minutes and then you rev it , thats when the blue smoke come out. Doesn’t really spew out blue smoke on start up . Would the be still valve stem seals leaking?
@@SuburbanRanch so by chance is it known on which two cylinders are aligned at tdc? So rather than going through each cylinder can you sequence two at a time? For example when cylinder 1 is at tdc so is cylinder 6, what are the remaining cylinders in sequence..
OK fine, Yes you have reduced the oil leakage at the valve stems, BUT----, if you don't pull the heads and clean the years of carbon accumulations from your heads and valves, and replace the head gaskets, you will still be running an engine that is way down on power and fuel efficiency. When you do a complete top end maintenance, you will transform your tired old small block into the fire breather it was when new. Just try not to smoke your tires off having too much fun. If you had good compression before the carbon removal, along with good oil pressure, you will add another 100K + miles to your SBC.
I've watched a few of these videos about replacing valve seals and other DIY auto projects and I have to say.
Your video was one of the best one I've seen.
You don't repeat yourself just to hear yourself talk you didn't get sidetracked about other projects you didn't make us watch useless video like taking off the valve covers (you got right to the point.)
Perfect!!
And because of that, I subscribed and liked and I'll definitely watch your videos again.
Excellent demo, tks
I've watched several how-to videos on replacing the seals and yours was by far the best. Thank you.
Very nice... Best valve seal video on youtube. With lash adjustment in 1 sentence!
glad the valve spring compressor is working for you, I bought one a few years back at Advance and it didnt work to save its life
I guess we got a good one? The hand did start hurting at the end though with all that twisting ha
Just did mine and it was an all day job but glad I got them done no smoke now at start up 😊 thanks for the video just like I did it
Gotta do mine on my yukon, driver side head is good but passenger side needs replacing especially the first two cylinders. I know this because when i pulled my plugs those two had the most build up, the plugs on the driver's side were perfect.
Concur...this is the best video on replacing Valve Seals...NICE JOB!!!
I used those seals but they were garbage and leaked over time. I wound up putting on L31 / LT1 style valve stem seals. Yes they fit on the TBI heads. I just put each cylinder to TDC and let the valve drop and hit the piston. Was easy just took alot of time
@Ghetto Wagon thanks for the info! Hope they don’t leak tho!
@@SuburbanRanch Well.... Yours looked 100% rotted I noticed a slight puff sometimes after I dunno. 6-7500 or so miles. I forget. Did the job again. Used the LT1/ l31 seals and put on all new valve springs. TDC is awesome you can swap 2 cylinders at a time w/o repositioning the crank.
@@GhettoWagondo you have a link by any chance for those l31/LT1 style valves?
@@TalFulano_ Just search valve stem seals for a 1996 5.7 Chevy truck I have felpro ones now
I wonder if those would work on a 1988 TBI 4.3. I'm thinking yes.
This video has helped me so much. I now know how to replace my springs and seals thank you so much
Love this series of videos on the gmt400. Very Well done
Great video. Doing valve seals on a 79 Oldsmobile tomorrow.
Great videos guys. Having fun applying your knowledge on my 1996 k1500 I just picked up for 2k :)
Thought I had to remove the heads and stuff. This looks like an easy job with the right tools. I'll consider doing this to my Iroc! Thanks for this video, really helpful!
I think with power tools it should'nt take more than half a day or a full day even for a DIY mechanic who knows his way around an engine.
Valve lash needs to be set in order and engine needs to be started on top dead center on 1 cylinder then rotated and reset 90 degrees as you go in order for each valve
Good catch. That's how I set my lash - every 90 degrees in the firing order. You have to be on TDC on the cylinder your setting the lash on. He leaves that part out.
I’ll replace mine this weekend, wish me good luck...🍀
The best of luck Mr.
Howd it go
Any luck?
I’ll be doing mine tomorrow
3years later, any luck?? 😂
I love your guys videos!
Thank you. How much air pressure should you use ?
So what is the PSI pressure in the spark plug hole? and where do i get a pressure hose with the two different ends like you are using in this video, spark plug hole and air hose fitting
Ty for this video. About to tackle this project on my 97 Silverado. Just wondering what type of air compressor was used to keep the valve from falling down. I have a little cheap 80psi compressor. Not sure it'll keep continuous pressure while swapping the seals out tho.
I just have a small compressor as well. Let it rest between valves!
Thank you for the video, very helpful. I think I need to replace the valve stem seals on my 92, on cold startup it smokes for a couple minutes and when I rev it throws bluish smoke out the pipe so a bit of oil is entering the combustion chamber, once it’s fully warmed up it doesn’t smoke so i’m definitely sure it’s the valve stem seals because I don’t think it could be piston rings the spark plugs are clean no oil on them or the head gaskets there’s no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. It’s a 350 with only 127k miles so do you think it’s the valve stem seals?
@Ken Figueroa I would say you probably need new valve seals.
I have a question on the exhaust seal.. do you just push down till it bottoms out or do you have to use a tool and hammer to compress down like the intake valve? Really need you help on that. Thanks!
@Simon Garza Just push it down
Were the intake seals positive lock and the exhaust seals umbrella style? Thanks.
@rivervallyray yes they are
Great video this will help me out a lot
Nice video does anyone know if all valves need the o-ring I don't see them in the valve seal kits for my 94 ranger 3L
It’s more of an old school GM thing. Your valves probably don’t have a groove for that o ring so you don’t need it.
Awesome video! I have a 1990 K1500 5.7 with TBI. In choosing valve stem seals for my truck/engine, would the same valve seal kits that you used work for my truck as well?
Yes it would!
Looking to replace my valve seals on my 88” project truck. This will be my biggest DIY mechanic job lol. I had a few questions, how do you rotate the motor and how do you know when the piston is top dead center? And where do you get that hose to connect to the compressor to the spark plug thread? Any certain psi it should be on? Thanks!
Rotate the motor using a socket on the crank bolt, use the alignment mark on the damper to find cylinder 1 TDC and rotate 90 degrees from there, link to the hose is in the description, and I usually run my compressor around 90-100 psi.
@@SuburbanRanch Got it. Any chance you have a video showing how to rotate the video? Thanks man. Much appreciated
No, we don’t. But I’m sure there are others that have a video showing how to rotate the motor
@@SuburbanRanch Thanks. Appreciate you 🙏🏼
How did you determine that you had the piston at TDC?
@Johnny Dawson You can check the height of the piston through the spark plug hole
you made that look super simple, come on over and fix mine, I will let you make a new video of you fixing my truck, thanks and I love you.
@R Monkey Thanks but once was enough for us!
So how do you get that o ring on if you put the spring on first..
I have a 350 ZZ4 86 on. When my heads were skimmed and refreshed they put the blue seals you used on exhaust and inlet. I've noticed that 1 or 2 of them are partially lifting. Do they need replacing again? And which ones should I use on inlet and exhaust. Thanks.
@Jason Mellinship They used the same seals on intake and exhaust? That seems odd. I would expect different seals. The intake seal needs to be much tighter to prevent oil from being sucked in.
@Suburban Ranch Thanks for your reply. The machine shop put the same seals on the exhaust. In the Reinz kit I had there was 8 inlet with the metal rings and 8 umbrella type, those, I'm guessing, should have gone on the inlet. The ZZ4 has the late 80s alloy heads.
@Jason Mellinship Umbrella type seal should go on the exhaust
Curious as to the pressure you put in the cylinder.
@tracy miller It was around 100psi
@@SuburbanRanch How much pressure would you recommend for a 4 cylinder Accord?
@Supernova I would do the same pressure
great work thank you for sharing
Great information but I have a question....
What happens if oil intrudes at the bottom of the valve stem seal where it sits on the valve guide? Are the valve stem seals also sealed inside or is it just on top?
@DJ Ali Fam-Ali Ent. Exhaust seal is an umbrella type of seal. Intake seal locks onto the top of the guide.
What happens if I just do all the work without moving the pistons?
Big fan of the series u are doing on k1500. I have a 98 k1500. Going to do this valve job on mine soon.
How big of an air compressor do I need to complete this job?
I have just a small compressor, let it rest between valves to cool off!
I have a Chevy 88 s10 2.5 and replacing the gasket but I can’t figure out we’re the washers go and the Load spacers go and mine is a flat surface cover
Is it the same process on the 93' 6.5 diesel motor. That truck has the same double exhaust the diesel has but appears to be gas motor.
The diesel doesn’t have spark plug holes, you won’t be able to follow the same procedure.
I’m gonna replace seals today. I have been mechanicing for many years but never had to deal with rocker arms and adjusting valves. Lemme get this straight…i put the rocker arms back on and tighten until they are just snugged up to the valve stems and push rods, then turn 1 full turn in order to compress the lifter slightly below its keeper clip. Doesnt matter what stroke the cylinders are on..right? As long as i snug and tighten 1full turn. Right?
@scooter The position of each cylinder is important. The valves need to be closed on the cylinder you are adjusting. You need to take up the slack in the pushrod (this is done by feel, wiggling it up and down) and then go another 1/2 to full turn.
@@SuburbanRanch like the rock and adjust method? Rock cyl 1 and adjust cyl 6?
@scooter I’m not sure what the rock and adjust method is
I did this to '88 Chevy truck, several years ago. I am doing it again to another 350. I have watched a few videos, jut to refresh my memory, It seems to me, everyone is making the same mistake. The hose I have going into my cylinder is from my compression tester. It has a Schrader valve in the end of it. If you don't remove that, you're gonna be in trouble me thinks.
@Wayne W The hose we used did not have a schrader valve.
How many miles was on that thing?
Thinking about trying this on my 4.3 with 251k
@Andrew Richardson 160k miles
Where can I buy the air hose piece that screws into sparkplug hole?
@Tuck Fryants Here ya go. Lisle 19700 Valve Holder www.amazon.com/dp/B000COC7ZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9BEZVHNY1YK1E48BQR0X?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@SuburbanRanch Thank you brother great video!
Do you put on new O-Rings along with the stem seals? Looks like some people do and some don't.
@William Barnes Yes, we did.
You said you did the the first 2 off video so is the front 1 always the intake seal and the 1 next to it always the exhaust seal all the way down the line?
@Mikey Hicks No. If you look at the exhaust manifold, the exhaust valves will line up with the manifold pipes.
@@SuburbanRanch cool thanks man!
If I were to replace alll of the seals, how many would I need for a 91 s10 v6 4.3? Where did you get the replacement o-rings?
@Ron K 12 seals for a 4.3. You can order a kit from Rockauto.
I was wondering do i only take out the spark plug of the cylinder im working on or do i take them all out
I would take them all out, it will make it easier to turn the engine over
Ok so I'm doing mine as we speak. Problem is that my 6 gallon 150psi air compressor drops down to 35psi when connected to hold valves up. Am I doing something wrong? I do have my piston up.
You probably have some worn rings! The valve will probably still hold at 35 psi.
What size air compressor should be used I've got a little pancake compressor to use would it be enough?
@that_sicksix Yes, but let it cool off between each cylinder.
Hey man does the LT1 96 have the same seals? Because I found fully rubber ones and metal ones I don't know wich fit my LT1.
@adam jam It’s a different engine. I would assume the seals are different but I don’t know for sure.
The angle of your intake bolts makes me assume you have vortec heads?
I do not have vortec heads.
The intake seal looks like a positive seal. Why doesn't the exhaust seal visually look the same.
(Ive got an '88 4.3 and assuming it uses the same seals as a V8)
...im not talking sbout the color difference. It doesn't have the metal band like the intake.
Great video.
Also....
Isnt there quite a risk if you don't get the piston at exactly TDC and having the piston forced down when you apply pressure?
The exhaust seal is never under suction like the intake seal is. You definitely want to be careful not to drop a valve into the cylinder when changing the seals!
Thanks for the video..my 93 suburban has about 270,000 miles and does smoke alot at crank up and does smoke for a minute or so but not as I'm driving down the road and it seems strong even with 37's and stock gears...I hope the piston rings ar good because I cannot afford a new engine
Hate to break it to you but with that many miles you will need to afford a new car. If you get a little 4 cylinder you might have the same payment seeing as the suburban gets 12 MPG
@@rmmm6725 I have never bought a vehicle with payments and I'm not a four cylinder kind of guy...thanks for the reply
@@vegansaxon3962 I agree payments are for chumps!!
What it mean to “rotate the motor” for top dead center piston? Trying to understand that part before starting lol
I like to put the piston near the top of the stroke so that the valve cannot fall all the way down just in case.
@@SuburbanRanch you turn it manually? Take the fan off and crank it by hand ?
Just put a socket in the crank bolt and turn it with a ratchet
I would have like to see how you installed the seal into the groove. Why did you leave that out of the video?
@Steve Wolff We just gently pushed the o-ring into the second groove on the valve stem. The reason it was not in the video is because you couldn’t see anything except a hand and fingers haha. I think we said we’d get a better shot on the next one and never filmed it... if it gets into the first groove it slides out pretty easily down to the second groove.
so the rocker reinstall/adjusting the lash should only be done at tdc?
@leemp337 It should be done when both valves are closed on that particular cylinder. Both valves are closed at TDC for a particular cylinder.
Would a 10 gallon compressor work for this job?
@Oldstyle67 A 10 gallon compressor should be fine
What’s up bro,
Is nesssary the compressor? I don’t have any and my ask for solve is, if you have a another metod from the valve don’t fall
@Sebastian RG You can use the string method instead of the compressor
Long cardboard box 3 lb hammer 7/8 socket or 18 mm 1/2 in extension 2 minutes tops for both heads
I have a 99 K1500 GMC suburban and it appears the parts should be the same but the seals you list are listed as not fitting my vehicle. Curious why you list two different seals and not just one, should the seals for the intake and exhaust be the same?
@Nachoman The exhaust and intake valve seals are different. The exhaust valve seal is an umbrella style seal and the intake seal fits much tighter as it needs to seal against the engine sucking oil in on the intake stroke.
@@SuburbanRanch OK thanks, I found FEL-PRO SS 72861 which says it fits mine for intake/exhaust, but in the picture they all like the same guess maybe just the picture.
@@igende the intake and exhaust are the same on vortec heads which is what you have in a 99 suburban. That truck he is working on is a throttle body truck which does not have vortec heads.
@@98Z71 Yup thanks I figured it out and changed them. Much appreciated for the response.
@@igende no problem dude. Wish I had seen your comment sooner and saved you a little trouble lol
What are the caps called on the valve spring
Retainers?
What grade of motor oil do you put in? I have a 1995 cheyenne 305 tbi 5.0-liter manual transmission 240 thousand miles I do not have the vehicle manual nor do I know what manual gear oil carries the climate where I live is warm. in winter it is 71.6 Fahrenheit
@Freddy Benitez 5W30
What's the point of setting it to TDC if you are using an air compressor? Also how is it holding up currently?
@Wesley Voltage Just a backup in case the compressor fails I guess. Holding up great so far but we haven’t driven it a ton as we started other projects on it.
My SBC has the blue seals on all the valves. Intake and exhaust. ?? Is that bad?
@Just1Spark Are the seals a different brand?
Excellent video
will 100 psi compressor hold up valves?
@jeff Cook Yes.
does the exhaust valve seal ride up and down with the valve?
@oracle wisdom Yes it does. It’s not snapped into anything
What air pressure should I use? Thank you
About 80psi
what is that O ring called under the keeper i cannot find it!
@Patrick R I’m not sure exactly what it’s call other than o-ring. Our seal set came with them. The part number is in the description, maybe you can get it from that?
Awesome video! Liked and subbed
Loved the video because I am going to do mine in a few weeks. Anyone know of a part number for the o-rigs?
@chris harris The o-rings we used came in the kit, part number in the description of the video.
@@SuburbanRanch I must not have seen them in there. I bought the same kit. I’ll look a little more closely. Thanks for the response
Hi. Where can I find the items
Rockauto
How much pressure to put in cylinder?
@Jalen Hawkins I think we used around 80-100 psi
I did the drivers side of valve seals without any issues, however when I got to the last one the air compressor would not push up the valve enough to put the new seal on. So I moved onto the passenger side and ran into the same problem. Anyone got any tips/tricks?
Stuff a rope into the spark plug hole to hold the valves up
You can put some nylon rope in the cylinder through the plug hole , rotate the engine to compress the rope and it holds the valves closed. Then rotate back and remove the rope when you finish.
What happens if you dont pressurize the cylinder prior, out of curiosity
@Mat Fortin The valve could fall down into the cylinder
@@SuburbanRanch ok so you why do you turn the engine to get it top dead? Is it just in case it falls?
@Mat Fortin Yep!
How much would this cost on a 89 Caprice Classic usually?
Could just be your valve cover holding oil. Then the oil is getting sucked up on start up
Gonna do this on my 1990 c1500 sierra
How long did this take you?
@Luke took us at least a couple hours as we were filming as well. I would set aside the day to do it though just in case
My dodge spew out smoke only when you park and idle it for 5 or 10 minutes and then you rev it , thats when the blue smoke come out. Doesn’t really spew out blue smoke on start up . Would the be still valve stem seals leaking?
@@migosmadeira9892 never figure it out Sold the truck awhile back We never knew what the cause was
How do you know when the right piston is top dead center ?
The #1/6 TDC are marked on the harmonic balancer, the others are 90 degrees from there based on the firing order
I thought this was my problem but the motor just started knocking on it thanks for the reply though
You look too clean cut to be so knowledgeable lol, nice job, great channel
Can you put a link to the valve stem seals? I have an 89 350 K1500, thank you.
@Cole’s Chronicle The part numbers are in the description, we got ours from rockauto
@@SuburbanRanch okay awesome thank you so there are two separate valve stem seals one for the intake side and the other for the exhaust?
@Cole’s Chronicle Yes, that’s correct.
@@SuburbanRanch so by chance is it known on which two cylinders are aligned at tdc? So rather than going through each cylinder can you sequence two at a time? For example when cylinder 1 is at tdc so is cylinder 6, what are the remaining cylinders in sequence..
@Cole’s Chronicle Allegedly this works but we haven’t tried it. www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/299826-adjusting-valves-350-sbc.html
What is the point for the Oring?
@Chicken Foundation To prevent oil from running down the valve?
Thank you
ncie video! should have added a start up.
eit Dude how much PSI did you put on the cilynder?
@Julio Rojo I think it was around 90 PSI
U r the man 😅
Gracias
Thank you!
I wonder if this is the same on a 94 Camaro 5.7 lt1
@Jack Johnson It should be similar
I use some fancy soft rope instead of the compressor.
Perfectooo!!
ok this makes sense now. the valves in my engine arent original and don't have that second groove for the oring
Same here...im guessing we don't need it
He for got to mention that you want the valve you’re adjusting to be at the bottom of your cam before tightening
Yes, that is correct
Nice Job!
OK fine, Yes you have reduced the oil leakage at the valve stems, BUT----, if you don't pull the heads and clean the years of carbon accumulations from your heads and valves, and replace the head gaskets, you will still be running an engine that is way down on power and fuel efficiency. When you do a complete top end maintenance, you will transform your tired old small block into the fire breather it was when new. Just try not to smoke your tires off having too much fun. If you had good compression before the carbon removal, along with good oil pressure, you will add another 100K + miles to your SBC.
👍
I've got my cylinder heads off replacing the head gaskets. Too bad I don't got those tools to change the valve seals while everything is off :/
@Cgp1998 Oh man if you have the heads off you should take them to a shop to be rebuilt
Is that always necessary? My truck didn't overheat when the head gaskets busted. I was just going to replace the gaskets if I could.
@Cgp1998 Not necessary, just recommended! Since you did all that work to get them off I would have it done.
Oh okay. Thank you for the info. If I got some $ to spend on that I will try
Mine does it while idling.
Question my truck burns oil could this be the problem
@Raunel Cruz Could be, does it smoke on startup? Might be rings.
@@SuburbanRanch smokes like On idle and when I step on it
@Raunel Cruz Could try the valve seals, I’m sure it wouldn’t hurt
@@SuburbanRanch it smokes on start to
Very good very good
are all valve seals the same size for every sbc head or do they depend on the head casting number?
@Jose Zamudio I would assume there are different ones. If you go to rockauto you can look up your vehicle and it will give you compatible parts.
What happens if I just do all the work without moving the pistons?
Awesome! Can you put a link to the tool that you used? Thanks!
@Supernova The name of the tool is in the description. If you put it into Amazon you can find it. Hope that helps!
@@SuburbanRanch . Thanks!
If you replaced the intake gaskets you should have took the heads to the machine shop