Free table saw classes (In SNU Courses section)►www.stumpynubs.com/ ISOtunes Bluetooth hearing protection (Use $10 off code STUMPY): bit.ly/2mdAqcn Video about homemade splitters►ruclips.net/video/gzdF-bLXc8Q/видео.html Free table saw class (In SNU Courses section)►www.stumpynubs.com/ AMAZING Hedgehog featherboards (seen in video)► amzn.to/3b4KcVl (We may get a small commission if you use one of the above affiliate links.)
I will sign up as soon as I get my contractor table saw set up. I am trying to decide what I am going to do about an Outfeed table. Never used a table saw before outside my shop class a million years ago. :)
@StumpyNubs thanks for the lesson. It's worth noting that mdf should always be cut/drilled while wearing a filtered mask. It's manufactured with toxic chemicals like formaldehyde. James I normally use reclaimed materials like pallets because I can get them free. If I wanted to make a vertical slat panel in the door...should I glue the slats together and not the outside edges or use only tongue and groove?
James I know this is just one more comment but I do need to tell you that THIS video was amazing. I've been building a box riser for a lady's mini refrigerator so she doesn’t have to bend down so far. The door part was the only part I was nervous about and I didn’t want to just put hinges on a piece of plywood and watch it warp in a week. I wanted a proper door. YOU saved me. Trust me when I say you are an outstanding teacher and that is something I know a lot about. For over 40 years I taught thousands of people all over the country and wrote 5 books on a very technical topic. Nothing at all connected with wood working. What makes you a fantastic teacher is that you never assume that the student already knows the terms or is reading between the lines. You teach like its our first day in the wood shop and THAT is what makes you a fantastic teacher. I built this door using oak for the rails and styles and then sandwiched three sheets of 1/8 masonite for the panel and the result was as perfect as what you showed in your video. Great instructions make for a better student. My confidence has grown as a result. I have never seen any woodworking videos that are as clear as yours. I admire you as a teacher and a person. Please don't ever change. I have an entire folder in my RUclips library and nothing is in it but Stumpy videos. Thats the good stuff. Thank you most sincerely.
I am not a native english speaker (and listener), but the way you teach, the words you choose, make my not-good-English seems to disappear. Thanks for every video you post.
James is the neighbor every woodworker wishes they had especially during the early learning period. I'm building doors similar to this and thought "let's see if stumpy has a video for that!"
Absolutely the best cabinet door video I've seen. Clear, precise, great reminders for safety, hopefully I can turn out a door or two. Maybe even a cabinet to put them on. Now off to watch the table saw tutorial on your website. This 60yr old lady is about to build cabinets.
I feel like I'm serving an apprenticeship when I watch one of your instructional videos. The voice of experience speaks with authority. Thanks for being a patient teacher.
What a clear and informative video, James. Thank you for taking the time to make and share this. I'm a novice, but with guides like this, my path to becoming a semi-decent woodworker is easier to follow.
AWESOME setup tips for the TS doing dados and rabbets. Doing the rough center then flip technique removes all possible errors in getting the grooves centered and stiles/ rails flush with each other. With a good flat top blade, the machining steps shouldn't take long at all.
Perfect, absolutely perfect. That was the easiest, and by far the most useful cabinet door video I have watched. Thank you. Your clear and step by step process gives a great sense of confidence for this beginner. Now on to a cabinet box.
Was going to do pocket hole technique but then stumbled upon this video. I'm a beginner. Mistakes to avoid: Make sure fence is lined up correctly. Don't clamp so tight that it bows the door. I didn't realize i did this until everything dried. Be patient with rails and make sure the tongue fits good. Get a decent mask especially when cutting the mdf board.
As always James a fine job of presenting solid information without lots of jump cuts and distracting music. I continue to look forward to your videos! Stay well & stay safe! Cheers from Nova Scotia 🇨🇦
Great video!!! You explain everything so a novice to a pro can appreciate the process. Your explanation of why it’s ok to used a feather board was perfect. Many people gloss over things they feel are obvious but you take the time just to ensure what you are showing is understandable to all who watch. Thank you.
Perfectly executed! Now, if the three large panel doors I must make from 3/4" oak (rails & styles) and 1/4" oak veneer plywood that fit onto the patio cabinet (each door 29 3/8" x 65 1/8") would be the 1,000 or so panel doors I had made instead of my first, I would be proud to show the confidence you bring to your video! But, they aren't and I don't... but I will do my best. I am forever grateful to you (and others) who take the time and produce such great training videos for which this one is just one more of the hundreds before it have been. I am ever grateful and much appreciative... thanks just does not seem sufficient! THANKS! (still insufficient 😉)
All I had to learn from was the new yankee workshop back in the 80’s. Old Norm. My hats off to Norm but what you do here on RUclips is phenomenal. If I would have just had this back then. Wow. Except then the world would already be over as we know it now. Well I never get tired of learning and it feels great to be learning from you here. Even if I can’t see as well as back then. 👍❤️✌️
Watch this video before I built some bathroom cabinets for my neighbor. Used Alder frames and 1/2 " birch for faces. Very easy built 5 door and 3 drawer fronts. They loved the. And Iiked the simplicity of the build . Thanks again
I cannot thank you enough for this video. I'm in the middle of building a new cabinet bench for my basement and it has 4 doors. Having never made cabinet doors before, I am...less than confident. This is an incredibly timely video (at least for me) and makes the prospect so much less daunting. Thank you.
Great tips. Your 2nd feather board seems to be pushing the work piece and pushing your fence away from the blade. At least it seems that way in the footage.
There are two locking points for the Incra fence, one on the positioner arm, another on the fence rail itself. I did not have the fence rail lock engaged. It looked way worse in a video closeup than it actually was. I didn't even notice it, and it didn't affect the cut.
The details you give are always gold. And you deliver information with grace. Been watching you for a while. You're one of the best on RUclips my friend!
Word! While I was in college, I ran the door crew at a furniture mill. I later managed a kitchen cabinet mill for the family that owned the furniture mill. I mention that not to brag, but to help establish credibility when I say: James got it exactly right in this brief video. These are exactly the methods we used to make doors -- sometimes 200+ doors on a shift in the furniture mill. If you pay attention to the details, anyone can make a well-crafted door with relatively few tools.
@Heloise O'Byrne Heloise -- Cabinet doors were being made with nothing but hand tools long before power tools were invented. So, yes, they can be made without a table saw. However, sawing accurately with a hand saw is a skill few of us have anymore. (It's a skill that virtually all of us could master, but it takes a sharp saw and a lot of practice.) Given that, I would recommend using a track saw, such as the Makita SP6000J1 or the Kreg ACS-SAW. (There are other track saws that would work. These two are only examples -- not the most expensive nor the least expensive, but quality saws that will serve a hobbyist well.) A track saw can do virtually everything a table saw can, with similar accuracy and cut quality. They take up a lot less space to store. The downside is repetitive cuts with a track saw take longer than with a table saw. HTH
DUDE!!!! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! Seriously, thank you! The information in this video is thorough, detailed & complete. All of the videos I’ve watched just completely gloss over the entire issue of choosing the materials!
Great job with all of your instructions James. You’re doing a great job and service to the woodworking communities. Thanks for sharing with us on RUclips also. Fred. 👏🏻👏🏻👍👍
Several years ago I used your techniques to build fifty doors and drawer fronts for a house I was flipping. At one point I had 250 pieces laying around, sorted into piles and my son came in an started handling them. I ran him off. One suggestion: If you are going to use 1/4" plywood for the panels, buy it and measure the thickness and use that for the thickness of your grooves and tongues. Much of it is not really a 1/4" anymore. Thanks for the really good presentation.
Very cool!! I am new to your channel and finding myself binging a bunch at a time. I really appreciate how you take time and explain each step instead of time lapsing the entire process.
Great video, I’m making some doors just just like this for my shop cabinets. I’m using scrap 3/4 inch plywood for the rails and stiles. It doesn’t look the best but for the shop it’s fine. This is nice practice for when I build a new set of cabinets for the house.
There are two locking points for the Incra fence, one on the positioner arm, another on the fence rail itself. I did not have the fence rail lock engaged. It looked way worse in a video closeup than it actually was. I didn't even notice it, and it didn't affect the cut.
This is great timing. I am just about to start some cabinet doors for a desk I'm building. Been spending the last couple days looking at building methods that will work with the tools I have.
@ 13:55 if you look closely you can see the fence move away from the blade as the work piece encountered the feather board, I was quite surprised, to say the least. Especially considering it is a Incra fence system (which I highly respect), and I watched as the video continued and it happened again . . .
I am looking at building some cabinet doors similar to this only instead of MDF center, I plan on inserting glass to see what is inside. Thank You for this
im relatively new to carpentry i have always made this style of doors with my table saw but i bought one dado set i am going to try it now that way i hope you make a video with dado set it's Nice to learn from a guy like you!!!
There are so many useful approaches in this video that can be applied to other jobs...been looking for a way to build a picture frame for a large poster and can easily adapt this as well as for cabinet doors with glass inserts (will just miter in molding).
Thanks James for this straightforward tutorial. I appreciate the pace of the lesson - very “absorbable” for my brain. Kudos for showing how this can be done with a Job Site or Contractor Table Saw. Sincerely, very Satisfied Subscriber [just when I thought that I’d watched all of your videos…I found this one. I’m glad that I did.]
New carpenters and wood workers have it made these days. Good for y’all. Run with all this knowledge and skill and make stuff like they used to even before my time. I fear the truly skilled has somewhat been suppressed when it comes to really creative woodworking. I could just be to much of a hermit to actually know what is creatively new these days but I don’t see it when I visit new architecture (buildings and houses).
I have made several doors using similar processes (Including and entire kitchen with oak door frames with tongue and groove cedar closet lining inserts). I have also made doors with rabbets all the way around holding in panels of either 1/4 in plywood or raised panel solid wood. The plywood was covered on the "outside with fabric wallpaper selected to match the room décor and can thus be changed relatively easily. (Just a few thoughts)
Every time I watch one of your videos I have an "ah-ha moment" I have always struggled with centering dados. Flipping the board is genius yet stupid simple. Thanks for the video.
Very good video. Thank you. Have a table saw but it's just a contractor saw that doesn't take dado stacks, and i don't have a planer or jointer so this is perfect to make doors for a small cabinet i'm planning.
Stumpy, speaking of cabinet doors, could you do a piece on the multitude of different hinge hardware? Not so much the fancy disappearing hinges most of us won't use, but just the basic types and where and how you use them?
This was one of the best tutorials I've seen in some time. Thank you for the detail, I was thinking a few times during the video that I wish Norm would have narrated answers to questions someone might have like you did. One constructive criticism is I would have liked to hear. a brief discussion on the seasonal panel movement, MDF/Ply/Panel etc. when you were gluing all four edges of the panel.
Excellent and easy to understand description of one of the most practical ways to get frame & panel parts (not just doors) that I am aware of. BTW, I like using my isotunes ear phones for listening and watching how to videos while my CNC machine is running.
I just made some doors following almost exactly the same procedure. The biggest issue I ran into was, cutting the groove this way makes the groove thickness related to the thickness of the board because each face is a reference. There was enough variation in the poplar I bought that it was a problem, and I spent a lot of extra time checking and re-cutting grooves. My 1/4 inch baltic birch plywood also had a little variation in thickness, enough to notice. Also note that any twist in the boards makes it hard or impossible to cut accurately and results in doors that aren't flat. My hardwood dealer doesn't sell any straight wood, not even the S4S stuff, so I desperately need a jointer and planer.
Using dry timber is essential. Many projects has looked good direct, but kind of warped after a few months. The construction lumber in the lumberjard is usually not even close to dry enough.
Recommend using a zero clearance insert. I tried this vertical technique a while back and had some scary stuff happen. Made a zero clearance insert and it worked much better. I use a dado blade now.
Hai Jim, I very much like the simplicity of This way of working😁 I always try to let the measurments "work" for me instead of against me, if if that means slightly adjusting my workpiece. I find it to be better to have exact, simpel but spot on cuts than using a more comprehansive way wich I Just don't get to fit perfectly😒 thanks for This one!!!
i have done this before, its a nice learning experience but getting a cabinet making adjustable tongue & groove pair of router bits makes this process alot easier & faster ...
This is another great video. I have two comments. First, consider purposefully cutting a couple of "test" rails and/or stiles. This will help "dial in" when getting to the desired groove width without over committing on the actual work pieces. You can later use these test pieces when "dialing in" on the tongues. Second, the half-inch MDF is a great idea, but it may be a bit heavy on large doors. This is something to consider.
There seems to be no reason to test cut the grooves since the width is arbitrary. The tongues and rabbets are cut to match whatever grooves you end up with. As for weight, I have some 5 foot tall pantry doors with MDF panels in my house. I would not trust a door like that to stay flat with a 1/4 inch panel. The added weight just means using three hinges instead of two on such a large door.
Love the simplicity, usefulness and honesty in your videos!! There are so many great nuggets of knowledge to be picked up, from the greenest beginner to the most seasoned veteran woodworkers. But....anyone else cringe a little watching the table saw fence flexing with the double featherboard set up?
There are two locking points for the Incra fence, one on the positioner arm, another on the fence rail itself. I did not have the fence rail lock engaged. It looked way worse in a video closeup than it actually was. I didn't even notice it, and it didn't affect the cut.
Great vid as usual. I noticed though that the fence is moving slightly during the latter part of each cut (i.e. cutting grooves on edge). I assume this is due to pressure from the feather boards. Doesn't that make a slightly irregular cut line leading to small gaps between the panel and stile?
This is a phenomenal video. It doesn't make assumptions about the viewers, it doesn't immediately assume the viewer has a table saw that will accept a dado stack, and it makes reasonable assumptions about what kind of material a person trying this for the first time might have access to or be willing to spend on an experiment. Follow-up question, would using a router table to cut the dados be a good idea here? I understand that a router table isn't a tool that most beginners will have on hand, but I'm in a weird place with my equipment where I've built up at least something for most of my tool needs but not necessarily great tools.
If using solid wood panels, and you want to keep them fixed in the groove, use a little silicone which will still allow for minor expansion and contraction.
Free table saw classes (In SNU Courses section)►www.stumpynubs.com/
ISOtunes Bluetooth hearing protection (Use $10 off code STUMPY): bit.ly/2mdAqcn
Video about homemade splitters►ruclips.net/video/gzdF-bLXc8Q/видео.html
Free table saw class (In SNU Courses section)►www.stumpynubs.com/
AMAZING Hedgehog featherboards (seen in video)► amzn.to/3b4KcVl
(We may get a small commission if you use one of the above affiliate links.)
I'd love to hear stumpy's thoughts on the incra fence.
I just tried the stumpy nubs discount code for Ridge carbide for my 2nd table saw blade. What I found that the discount code is good for one purchase.
I will sign up as soon as I get my contractor table saw set up. I am trying to decide what I am going to do about an Outfeed table. Never used a table saw before outside my shop class a million years ago. :)
@StumpyNubs thanks for the lesson. It's worth noting that mdf should always be cut/drilled while wearing a filtered mask. It's manufactured with toxic chemicals like formaldehyde.
James I normally use reclaimed materials like pallets because I can get them free. If I wanted to make a vertical slat panel in the door...should I glue the slats together and not the outside edges or use only tongue and groove?
@fdort3971 Glue them together to make a single panel, then let that float in the frame. Otherwise, gaps can open between the loose slats.
I always like your ability to explain your build. As a beginner in woodworking your knowledge is impeccable. Thanks Jim
James I know this is just one more comment but I do need to tell you that THIS video was amazing. I've been building a box riser for a lady's mini refrigerator so she doesn’t have to bend down so far. The door part was the only part I was nervous about and I didn’t want to just put hinges on a piece of plywood and watch it warp in a week. I wanted a proper door. YOU saved me. Trust me when I say you are an outstanding teacher and that is something I know a lot about. For over 40 years I taught thousands of people all over the country and wrote 5 books on a very technical topic. Nothing at all connected with wood working. What makes you a fantastic teacher is that you never assume that the student already knows the terms or is reading between the lines. You teach like its our first day in the wood shop and THAT is what makes you a fantastic teacher. I built this door using oak for the rails and styles and then sandwiched three sheets of 1/8 masonite for the panel and the result was as perfect as what you showed in your video. Great instructions make for a better student. My confidence has grown as a result. I have never seen any woodworking videos that are as clear as yours. I admire you as a teacher and a person. Please don't ever change. I have an entire folder in my RUclips library and nothing is in it but Stumpy videos. Thats the good stuff. Thank you most sincerely.
It does not get any easier to follow than that James. You have a great teaching method, clear and concise and no attitude! Thank you
ha, refreshing that this is a video targeting DYIers that don't have a full blown wood shop with every pro tool available. Cheers!
I am not a native english speaker (and listener), but the way you teach, the words you choose, make my not-good-English seems to disappear. Thanks for every video you post.
James is the neighbor every woodworker wishes they had especially during the early learning period. I'm building doors similar to this and thought "let's see if stumpy has a video for that!"
Absolutely the best cabinet door video I've seen. Clear, precise, great reminders for safety, hopefully I can turn out a door or two. Maybe even a cabinet to put them on. Now off to watch the table saw tutorial on your website. This 60yr old lady is about to build cabinets.
I feel like I'm serving an apprenticeship when I watch one of your instructional videos. The voice of experience speaks with authority. Thanks for being a patient teacher.
That's funny...I feel like a student back in woodworking class!
What a clear and informative video, James. Thank you for taking the time to make and share this. I'm a novice, but with guides like this, my path to becoming a semi-decent woodworker is easier to follow.
AWESOME setup tips for the TS doing dados and rabbets. Doing the rough center then flip technique removes all possible errors in getting the grooves centered and stiles/ rails flush with each other. With a good flat top blade, the machining steps shouldn't take long at all.
Thank you for the tip about using 1/2 MDF or Plywood and cutting the 1/4 rabbet on all 4 sides.
I can’t wait for the solid wood doors video.
Perfect, absolutely perfect. That was the easiest, and by far the most useful cabinet door video I have watched. Thank you. Your clear and step by step process gives a great sense of confidence for this beginner. Now on to a cabinet box.
Sharpening chisels, sliding dovetails, cabinet doors and much more. Your videos are always appreciated.
Was going to do pocket hole technique but then stumbled upon this video. I'm a beginner. Mistakes to avoid: Make sure fence is lined up correctly. Don't clamp so tight that it bows the door. I didn't realize i did this until everything dried. Be patient with rails and make sure the tongue fits good. Get a decent mask especially when cutting the mdf board.
Thanx. I watch a lot of videos as curiosity because they are things I will never do. This one speaks directly to me.
As always James a fine job of presenting solid information without lots of jump cuts and distracting music. I continue to look forward to your videos! Stay well & stay safe!
Cheers from Nova Scotia 🇨🇦
Great video!!! You explain everything so a novice to a pro can appreciate the process. Your explanation of why it’s ok to used a feather board was perfect. Many people gloss over things they feel are obvious but you take the time just to ensure what you are showing is understandable to all who watch. Thank you.
Perfectly executed! Now, if the three large panel doors I must make from 3/4" oak (rails & styles) and 1/4" oak veneer plywood that fit onto the patio cabinet (each door 29 3/8" x 65 1/8") would be the 1,000 or so panel doors I had made instead of my first, I would be proud to show the confidence you bring to your video! But, they aren't and I don't... but I will do my best. I am forever grateful to you (and others) who take the time and produce such great training videos for which this one is just one more of the hundreds before it have been. I am ever grateful and much appreciative... thanks just does not seem sufficient! THANKS! (still insufficient 😉)
All I had to learn from was the new yankee workshop back in the 80’s. Old Norm. My hats off to Norm but what you do here on RUclips is phenomenal. If I would have just had this back then. Wow. Except then the world would already be over as we know it now. Well I never get tired of learning and it feels great to be learning from you here. Even if I can’t see as well as back then. 👍❤️✌️
Watch this video before I built some bathroom cabinets for my neighbor.
Used Alder frames and 1/2 " birch for faces. Very easy built 5 door and 3 drawer fronts. They loved the. And Iiked the simplicity of the build . Thanks again
I cannot thank you enough for this video. I'm in the middle of building a new cabinet bench for my basement and it has 4 doors. Having never made cabinet doors before, I am...less than confident. This is an incredibly timely video (at least for me) and makes the prospect so much less daunting. Thank you.
very informative, without talking down to the viewer. good job!!!!!!
Thank you so much with these details. You are such a great teacher. I learnt a lot. just in this video!!! From South Africa.
Great tips.
Your 2nd feather board seems to be pushing the work piece and pushing your fence away from the blade. At least it seems that way in the footage.
There are two locking points for the Incra fence, one on the positioner arm, another on the fence rail itself. I did not have the fence rail lock engaged. It looked way worse in a video closeup than it actually was. I didn't even notice it, and it didn't affect the cut.
The details you give are always gold. And you deliver information with grace. Been watching you for a while. You're one of the best on RUclips my friend!
Word! While I was in college, I ran the door crew at a furniture mill. I later managed a kitchen cabinet mill for the family that owned the furniture mill. I mention that not to brag, but to help establish credibility when I say: James got it exactly right in this brief video. These are exactly the methods we used to make doors -- sometimes 200+ doors on a shift in the furniture mill. If you pay attention to the details, anyone can make a well-crafted door with relatively few tools.
@Heloise O'Byrne Heloise -- Cabinet doors were being made with nothing but hand tools long before power tools were invented. So, yes, they can be made without a table saw.
However, sawing accurately with a hand saw is a skill few of us have anymore. (It's a skill that virtually all of us could master, but it takes a sharp saw and a lot of practice.) Given that, I would recommend using a track saw, such as the Makita SP6000J1 or the Kreg ACS-SAW. (There are other track saws that would work. These two are only examples -- not the most expensive nor the least expensive, but quality saws that will serve a hobbyist well.)
A track saw can do virtually everything a table saw can, with similar accuracy and cut quality. They take up a lot less space to store. The downside is repetitive cuts with a track saw take longer than with a table saw.
HTH
DUDE!!!! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! Seriously, thank you! The information in this video is thorough, detailed & complete. All of the videos I’ve watched just completely gloss over the entire issue of choosing the materials!
Best Shaker style door video on RUclips!
Great job with all of your instructions James. You’re doing a great job and service to the woodworking communities. Thanks for sharing with us on RUclips also. Fred. 👏🏻👏🏻👍👍
Several years ago I used your techniques to build fifty doors and drawer fronts for a house I was flipping. At one point I had 250 pieces laying around, sorted into piles and my son came in an started handling them. I ran him off.
One suggestion: If you are going to use 1/4" plywood for the panels, buy it and measure the thickness and use that for the thickness of your grooves and tongues. Much of it is not really a 1/4" anymore. Thanks for the really good presentation.
Very cool!! I am new to your channel and finding myself binging a bunch at a time. I really appreciate how you take time and explain each step instead of time lapsing the entire process.
Another advantage of using 1/2" panels w/ rabbeted edge is it makes a flush back that's ideal for drawer fronts.
Great video, I’m making some doors just just like this for my shop cabinets. I’m using scrap 3/4 inch plywood for the rails and stiles. It doesn’t look the best but for the shop it’s fine. This is nice practice for when I build a new set of cabinets for the house.
That tablesaw fence deflects quite a bit when cutting the grooves.
There are two locking points for the Incra fence, one on the positioner arm, another on the fence rail itself. I did not have the fence rail lock engaged. It looked way worse in a video closeup than it actually was. I didn't even notice it, and it didn't affect the cut.
This is great timing. I am just about to start some cabinet doors for a desk I'm building. Been spending the last couple days looking at building methods that will work with the tools I have.
Thank you for the free course ! Looking forward to learning how to use the saw correctly .
The self-centering is so simple and ingenious! Thanks a lot.
The level of expertise is shown with the amount of hand planers 😂. This guy is hundreds of levels above most carpenters
Might also help to add a taller sacrificial board to the fence, when doing that panel, so you have more surface to ride against.
@ 13:55 if you look closely you can see the fence move away from the blade as the work piece encountered the feather board, I was quite surprised, to say the least. Especially considering it is a Incra fence system (which I highly respect), and I watched as the video continued and it happened again . . .
I am looking at building some cabinet doors similar to this only instead of MDF center, I plan on inserting glass to see what is inside. Thank You for this
im relatively new to carpentry i have always made this style of doors with my table saw but i bought one dado set i am going to try it now that way i hope you make a video with dado set it's Nice to learn from a guy like you!!!
Well said about the position of Your featherboards Sir . I do the same and have a pair of vertical featherboards as well .
There are so many useful approaches in this video that can be applied to other jobs...been looking for a way to build a picture frame for a large poster and can easily adapt this as well as for cabinet doors with glass inserts (will just miter in molding).
This was very helpful and practical as I am building the doors for a bathroom cabinet. Thanks.
Thanks James for this straightforward tutorial. I appreciate the pace of the lesson - very “absorbable” for my brain. Kudos for showing how this can be done with a Job Site or Contractor Table Saw. Sincerely, very Satisfied Subscriber [just when I thought that I’d watched all of your videos…I found this one. I’m glad that I did.]
This guy is the best. Wonderful teacher.
Thank you! It's very much like you said, many presenters in videos on this subject assume a novice such as myself knows the steps they are taking.
Glad I came across your site. Very helpful to me as I start building cabinets for myself. Very good instruction.
New carpenters and wood workers have it made these days. Good for y’all. Run with all this knowledge and skill and make stuff like they used to even before my time. I fear the truly skilled has somewhat been suppressed when it comes to really creative woodworking. I could just be to much of a hermit to actually know what is creatively new these days but I don’t see it when I visit new architecture (buildings and houses).
Great Lesson by an Experienced Craftsman, when you go over the best hinges to hang this type of door.
Great info James. Clear and simple. Why can't everything be that way?
I have made several doors using similar processes (Including and entire kitchen with oak door frames with tongue and groove cedar closet lining inserts). I have also made doors with rabbets all the way around holding in panels of either 1/4 in plywood or raised panel solid wood. The plywood was covered on the "outside with fabric wallpaper selected to match the room décor and can thus be changed relatively easily. (Just a few thoughts)
Made some doors this way just for the shop, using 1/4”MDF panel. Good enough for the shop. Nice video!
Simple but very well explained thanks.
A bit more advanced but always like watching your videos James, thanks again you never disappoint!
Another video filled with great info. Really appreciate what you do, James.
Every time I watch one of your videos I have an "ah-ha moment" I have always struggled with centering dados. Flipping the board is genius yet stupid simple. Thanks for the video.
Very good video. Thank you. Have a table saw but it's just a contractor saw that doesn't take dado stacks, and i don't have a planer or jointer so this is perfect to make doors for a small cabinet i'm planning.
Great video. I may be doing this with a radial arm saw, but I at least see the basic technique of how to cut and fit fit the corners together.
Stumpy, speaking of cabinet doors, could you do a piece on the multitude of different hinge hardware? Not so much the fancy disappearing hinges most of us won't use, but just the basic types and where and how you use them?
This was one of the best tutorials I've seen in some time. Thank you for the detail, I was thinking a few times during the video that I wish Norm would have narrated answers to questions someone might have like you did. One constructive criticism is I would have liked to hear. a brief discussion on the seasonal panel movement, MDF/Ply/Panel etc. when you were gluing all four edges of the panel.
MDF and plywood doesn't move enough seasonally to be a factor in this case. That's why it is used. I briefly referred to that at the end of the wideo.
@@StumpyNubs my apologies, I missed that at the end for some reason, Thank you again
Awesome video Mr. Nubs. I'm about to make some garage cabinets so this will help a lot. I enjoy this format.
What an EXCELLENT video!! Thank you for this video.
I subscribed within 2min (first time, now permanent viewer).
Excellent and easy to understand description of one of the most practical ways to get frame & panel parts (not just doors) that I am aware of.
BTW, I like using my isotunes ear phones for listening and watching how to videos while my CNC machine is running.
I just made some doors following almost exactly the same procedure. The biggest issue I ran into was, cutting the groove this way makes the groove thickness related to the thickness of the board because each face is a reference. There was enough variation in the poplar I bought that it was a problem, and I spent a lot of extra time checking and re-cutting grooves. My 1/4 inch baltic birch plywood also had a little variation in thickness, enough to notice.
Also note that any twist in the boards makes it hard or impossible to cut accurately and results in doors that aren't flat.
My hardwood dealer doesn't sell any straight wood, not even the S4S stuff, so I desperately need a jointer and planer.
Using dry timber is essential. Many projects has looked good direct, but kind of warped after a few months. The construction lumber in the lumberjard is usually not even close to dry enough.
I like the idea of using half inch MDF for the panels. I’ve been using quarter inch-ish plywood, but it seems flimsy.
Great video and safety procedures on the table saw.. thanks
I like your Incra fence. They have the most accurate and repeatable fence systems around.
Recommend using a zero clearance insert. I tried this vertical technique a while back and had some scary stuff happen. Made a zero clearance insert and it worked much better. I use a dado blade now.
that's a new way for me to cut the MDF, excellent idea
Well done James
One of the best instructional videos I've ever seen...on any topic. You're a cool dude🙂
This was a great tutorial. I have to make a 60” shaker door so this is very helpful.
Hai Jim, I very much like the simplicity of This way of working😁 I always try to let the measurments "work" for me instead of against me, if if that means slightly adjusting my workpiece. I find it to be better to have exact, simpel but spot on cuts than using a more comprehansive way wich I Just don't get to fit perfectly😒 thanks for This one!!!
Dude......Do you think you have ENOUGH planes :) LOL Thanks for the video! "Go Wings!"
ruclips.net/video/-pFmUsrtKlI/видео.html
Thanks Stumpy! Much appreciated 😊
i have done this before, its a nice learning experience but getting a cabinet making adjustable tongue & groove pair of router bits makes this process alot easier & faster ...
A woodworker on RUclips using a blade guard! 🥳
This is another great video. I have two comments. First, consider purposefully cutting a couple of "test" rails and/or stiles. This will help "dial in" when getting to the desired groove width without over committing on the actual work pieces. You can later use these test pieces when "dialing in" on the tongues. Second, the half-inch MDF is a great idea, but it may be a bit heavy on large doors. This is something to consider.
There seems to be no reason to test cut the grooves since the width is arbitrary. The tongues and rabbets are cut to match whatever grooves you end up with. As for weight, I have some 5 foot tall pantry doors with MDF panels in my house. I would not trust a door like that to stay flat with a 1/4 inch panel. The added weight just means using three hinges instead of two on such a large door.
As usual, wonderful video and explanations. Question: What is the roller out feed table you are using?
Love the simplicity, usefulness and honesty in your videos!! There are so many great nuggets of knowledge to be picked up, from the greenest beginner to the most seasoned veteran woodworkers. But....anyone else cringe a little watching the table saw fence flexing with the double featherboard set up?
There are two locking points for the Incra fence, one on the positioner arm, another on the fence rail itself. I did not have the fence rail lock engaged. It looked way worse in a video closeup than it actually was. I didn't even notice it, and it didn't affect the cut.
James perhaps you should compare pre and after assembly finishing
Thank you for all of your content. You are a great teacher.
Two great uses for those hedgehogs. I wasn’t sure I’d get my money’s worth until now. Thanks!
Great video! Thanks for sharing your expertise
Great vid as usual. I noticed though that the fence is moving slightly during the latter part of each cut (i.e. cutting grooves on edge). I assume this is due to pressure from the feather boards. Doesn't that make a slightly irregular cut line leading to small gaps between the panel and stile?
Brilliant! just what I wanted. Greetings from Ireland👍
This is a phenomenal video. It doesn't make assumptions about the viewers, it doesn't immediately assume the viewer has a table saw that will accept a dado stack, and it makes reasonable assumptions about what kind of material a person trying this for the first time might have access to or be willing to spend on an experiment. Follow-up question, would using a router table to cut the dados be a good idea here? I understand that a router table isn't a tool that most beginners will have on hand, but I'm in a weird place with my equipment where I've built up at least something for most of my tool needs but not necessarily great tools.
Very clear and informative.
Brilliant video Nubs.
Thanks for bringing value to my life!
If using solid wood panels, and you want to keep them fixed in the groove, use a little silicone which will still allow for minor expansion and contraction.
Excellent instructional video. Thank you. I definitely intend to use your method.
Really good information and demonstration
Love the wings can holder!
Love this one, it gave me some incentive to use the router after you demonstrated how easy it can be.
Great video and timely for me since I am about to make these type doors for a pantry. Thanks!