I was thinking about buying a Slam Simulator 2000, but after this review I think I’m just going wait for the 3000. Once they figure out how to make it stronger.
That’s true! The 2000 has a feature I didn’t have time to showcase called “where’s the toaster?”. This feature had my wife testing the durability of the cabinet doors inside the house as well. Pretty neat!
If MDF is tough enough to take the abuse of being made into a car subwoofer box, suffer the hot/cold cycles of a being in a car trunk, slamming junk into it while making tight turns, not rattle apart from the bass, and still look decent after all that time... it can be a cabinet door haha. Thanks for proving it! Certain materials get a bad rap, but this goes to prove that the reputation is not always deserved.
@@WoodNerds I agree mostly but the moment you get a crack in the paint you never believed would happen because you "made this right" and it starts slowly warping and disintegrating..... Ask me how I know. I primed my MDF until they looked like white wood. I used Benjamin Moore Bath and Spa paint. I had a very very solid coating. It looked factory made. Got a tiny split where the panel met the style and ignored it. It was about 5ft from my guest bath shower that never gets used so I figured no problem. The door quickly became wet paper after a few months of random multi night guests showering. I know it's a non issue if this doesn't happen to you with the split but this wouldn't have been an issue at all with Plywood. Maybe it's where I am in California but plywood is about $25 more for 4x8 Baltic birch 3/4 ply than the MDF equivalent. I guess I just don't think it's worth cheaping out on if you're already investing the effort to build it. But like I said I agree MDF gets a bad wrap. I've built closets with it and it's fantastic.
All I got is a Circular Saw and a drill. I'm tired of these diy videos with expensive machines...wait a God dang minute...woah, this is awesome. THANK YOU!
Haha! I know the struggle! Happy to make videos for makers that don’t have a full shop! Going to keep it in mind for future videos as well. Thanks for watching and for leaving a comment!
You got this!! I mess things up so often haha. If I can make them, you can too. Thanks for watching and taking time to leave a nice comment! I appreciate it.
I don't have the space, money, or desire to purchase a table saw and it's really tough to find videos that don't require one, or a gazillion dollars of high end equipment. So from the bottom of my fledgeling woodworker heart, THANK YOU 🙏
This was very helpful. I desperately need 3 Binet doors or I’ll be forced to hang curtains. 😮 So I am happy to see an alternative to buying “all the equipment.” Thank you for the video! Very entertaining as well.
I appreciate it! I plan to make more videos using less expensive tools for this reason. It can be challenging to figure out a legit building method without them but people have been building amazing things with their hands for ever! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
Just watched the work bench vid from 4 years ago, then clicked into this bearded lumber jack bro immediately after. Talk about evolving into ultimate form!
Of course! Thanks for watching! If probably cared for, it will last! Just make sure if it sustains damage and the raw mdf is exposed, that you touch up the paint. Water is the main enemy of mdf and the paint acts as a barrier to protect it. Other than that, should be a solid door. I’ve had some I made in my high use/high moisture bathroom for almost two years and they are still perfect.
Excellent video! I'll be making my mock shakers with 1/2" panel and 1/4" trims to give it weight and less depth from edges to panel but really appreciate the circular saw method! I've built a work table with DIY drop-down saw guide but that Kreg jig is brilliant. Subbed.
You are such a great teacher! I am just watching videos to learn to build things and have been purchasing some tools, but I don't have the space for a table saw and this really helped me to start my first project which will be a drawer. ❤ Thank You!
Best "unconventional" usage of toaster I've ever seen on YT. Not the worst paint job to be honest. Nice circular saw skills as well. I'd go with table saw anyways, even if I'd had to by new one. But you've made your point, man. The only one grumping - I'd fill pocket holes with Dyna Patch Pro patching putty before gluing. And I'd use No More Clamp Wood Glue Adhesive for that pocket joinery - 15 mins approx to dry enough to keep working. Great job, neat video - thank you, man!
Haha! My wife was less amused! I appreciate the perspective! I’ll have to look that stuff up. Being able to keep working would make this process much more efficient! Thanks for watching and taking time to leave your thoughts! Cheers, man!
Great video. And for anyone who is on a real budget and cannot afford a lot of tools, this is perfect. I have tool but cam appreciate making this way so that everyone can have something that look nicer. Also, these would be a great cabinet refresh for rental properties. If they get messed up by a bad tennant, its an easy and cheap replacement, while looking modern and stylish.
I build things with mdf all the time. My whole miter station is entirely mdf.It's very underrated. It's strong, flat, and stable. The only down side is It's dusty.
I was able to accomplish a similar look and design by using 1/2” MDF panels and 1/4” strips glued to the front to simulate rails and styles. Glued and nailed down, gaps filled with spackling and sanded smooth. You can’t even tell they’re MDF once they’re painted.
Getting ready to down size houses. My expensive solid wood 38” cabinet doors are twisting and curved and they are only 3 years old! Next house, building my own! Thank You!
Thanks man. Im buying my first house but can only afford smaller older homes. I can drywall, fix siding, and general construction stuff all day, but millwork is a much finer end product. Most places I can afford have old cabinets, many broken/missing doors and this is giving me confidence in being able to fix/replace.
amazing video!! In Canada where I live, a sheet of MDF is actually same price, if not slightly more than a full sheet of plywood of the same thickenss. Its crazy this used to be considered a "cheap" alternative. Not for me :(
I’m sorry to hear that! Things are wound so tight these days. I have hope we’re close to a point where it starts to swing back. I appreciate you watching and taking time to leave a comment!
Great video. To be honest I’ve always shied away from MDF but I’ll be giving it a go now thanks to you! New sub, blame Mitt. But so glad for the suggestion. And as the master himself says, keep up the good work. Wow that top setting on Slam Simulator, otherwise known as “little brother ate the last pop-tart” was impressive!
I do own a table saw, but for the application I have (basement storage cabinet doors) I don't need the fancy dados/mortise and tenon joinery. This should be super easy and good to go.
The explanations along the way were so helpful. A couple of questions: 1. Was the primer water-based? I've heard that could raise the MDF fibers but maybe just sanding would take care of that. 2. The edges didn't need to be filled to conceal the two pieces of MDF coming together? It maybe was addressed when you talked about using MDF for both. Nothing wrong with MDF doors! And the tool cost is so minimal. I don't understand the people who complained about that. The fence is reasonably priced, a cheaper pocket hole jig could be used, and one wouldn't really need a jig for the handles. I actually think I could do this!
I think it is water based. I didn’t experience any raised fibers when I used it. In my experience, MDF can be exposed to a little water here and there without it blowing up. It’s sitting in water and lots of exposure over time that really hurts it. Plus, once you have a light coat on the MDF, every coat afterwards isn’t touching the MDF, it’s only building on previous layers of paint so you should be fine with that. I didn’t have to do anything special outside of what I showed in the video. I try to showcase every step so you know what to expect and can plan accordingly. Making sure your cuts are square and accurate will ensure you don’t have a lot of messy cleanup to worry about when it comes to gaps and such. It was much easier than I thought. Safety is most important here. Just be aware of where those blade are, and where they are going to be and keep your hands out of that path.
A bulge on the opposite side or the side of the hardware? Could try a bigger pilot hole. If it’s on the opposite side of the hardware, might need shorter screws!
Hi! Thanks for watching! The two seem to be very similar. If anyone sees this and knows better, please correct me, but I believe hardboard is just like mdf but a higher density.
Of course! It’s “clary sage” satin finish, using a “cabinet and furniture paint” base to help mitigate wear and tear. I think the manufacturer is sherwin Williams!
thank you for this helpful advice and demonstration :) now I know MDF is OK. another good test would be to slam the panel door in the other direction, a reverse slam. to see when and how the hinges might fail.
Love this video, have a question about paint though. Our kitchen cabinet frames have all been painted with oil based gloss white so of course we would want the doors to match. Will the MBF accept the oil based paint without swelling or would a primer need to be painted first to seal it? The paint will be spray painted.
Hey! I’ve tried both on MDF and haven’t had any issues. Any time I talk to a paint specialist, they say primer is a must regardless the material or top coat paint type.
Thanks for the video! Glad to have found a video not requiring a table saw.... new to wood projects so I was wondering why you used pocket screws instead of a nail gun? Is it a matefial difference in quality/sturdyness? I am trying to do MDF to an existing flat panel wood door
I think the screws will help hold the rails and stiles together in a way that you’d get if you used joinery (dado and tenon joinery in this case). Otherwise, if the panel flexes, you might end up with the rails and stiles separating. I haven’t actually tried this out so it’s an assumption but I’d rather the extra hold there in case the little bit of glue holding them together wants to give up the ghost.
No issues that I can speak of. If you want it super smooth you can use a gloss or even semigloss paint. The higher the coat count the more plastic like and smooth it will be.
I'm glad youtube brought you through my algorithm! I like how this worked up and I might have to use these doors on a wall cabinet set i want to build in the living room
Great video! I have a question for you... since I don't have local access to 1/8 inch MDF, can I glue up 1/8 inch HDF with the 1/2 inch MDF? Thanks in advance!
Hey! Thanks for taking time to comment! I don’t think that would be an issue! It’s all compressed fiber board so the transition should look similar (I believe).
Thank you Lynn, Of course! It’s “clary sage” satin finish, using a “cabinet and furniture paint” base to help mitigate wear and tear. my wife picked it up at Lowe’s. I think the color manufacturer is sherwin Williams!
Many, Many Thanks for posting this DIY for cabinet doors without a table saw or router and the little details & tips throughout are extremely helpful. Will this method work just a well with 1/4" & 1/2" plywood? I only ask because that is what I purchased for this project, before finding out it was going to require more tools/skills than I have...LOL!
Plywood can be used but you’ll want to use edge banding or some type of filler on the edges to get a clean result. In my experience the ply’s in plywood are too visible and often times contain voids that show through when painted without treating the edges first.
Great video! When you explained the benefit of mdf to mdf, it made me question what you could use for a trim piece for added design. I know you can use the router, but that doesn’t exactly apply to the lack of equipment that is the focus of this video. There’s lots of small trim options. Wonder if you could glue trim where the rails/styles meet the panel for added detail? Thoughts?
That’s a great point! There is a bunch of trim options that could spice the basic shaker design up with almost no added effort, and since the doors are the same size, you could easily batch them together. I’m partial to adding coves in my trim work and think they would dress this up. I’ll have to try that out. Great idea!
These videos are fantastic! I can't afford the store prices and have never tried anything like this, so thanks for making this so easy. However, do you think MDF would work for a slab cabinet? I’m kind of a minimalist and I think slab cabinets just look clean.
Thank you! Yeah, I think mdf would work perfectly for that. Would be much easier if a project as well. You’ll likely have to get a thicker sheet though so you don’t cut through with when drilling the holes for the hinges!
Hi Tyler. Where did you purchase the MR50 rated MDF from? I've checked the big box stores like HD and Lowe's and could only find MR10 rated board at Lowe's.
Hey! I picked mine up from a local lumberyard! If you have one within driving distance, give them a call. I’ve saved a bunch of money buying from a lumberyard vs big box store. Better quality and people on staff that actually know about their products.
Dude you made this look so doable I can't wait to give it a try. My last quote for Cabinet Door Shaker Style $98 per door. I have 40 doors in my Kitchen so $3,920. What do I have to lose. Thank you for the video and your time.
It’s really not hard. Try a couple to get the process down and make sure they turn out how you want, then batch the process and make the rest. Making sure to test fit and dry assemble along the way. Good luck!
Thanks for the video, everything is great and beautiful. But when I drilled the holes for the handles from the back side, it didn’t turn out nicely, so that this wouldn’t happen, put an unnecessary piece of MDF under the drilling site, and then drilling into it wouldn’t happen. The doors turned out wonderful!
@@WoodNerds Dude you're so welcome! I have seen countless videos thinking I would need a table saw, router table, trim router, planer, jointer, DIY crosscut table saw sled, furniture grade birch ply and woodgrain filler to make a competent cabinet door. Your doors are great looking, clearly sturdy enough and way easier to build than the alternatives.
@ShaneTheGeek I’m stoked the video was helpful! I got some feedback on my last cabinet door video that a lot of people didn’t have table saws etc. and wanted an alternative way to make them. Took me a bit to figure it out but I’m glad I was able to come up with an easy solution!
Great video! Thanks for all the helpful info! And forget the haters commenting about the extra tools needed to make a really good quality cabinet door….they can certainly not use a track saw or jigs and make themselves wonky cabinet doors! Question-I can’t find the $0.50 paint can pourer; where did you get it?
Hey Matt! I really appreciate it man! Channel isn’t cooked yet haha just taking a break! Wife is pregnant so all my time has gone to finishing up some long overdue house projects haha. I have a bunch of videos I’ll be working on in the near future! Thanks for watching!
Loved this video! I am planning to redo all my cabinet doors and was hoping to make a “thinner” door and this will work great. Is the 1/8 inch panel ACTUALLY MDF , or is is tempered hardwood? For some reason I can’t find 1/8 mdf where I live.
Mine is mdf, might be listed as 3mm sheet. I have some hardboard as well and while I haven’t used it for the panel before, I don’t think it would cause any issues to use that instead. I say this without experience using that material for that purpose of course so take that with a grain of salt.
hey im planning on using this method on my cabinets! one question is for the drawer faces, would you just not do rails/ styles on the drawer faces? or same type of build and mount the hardware to the panel... just doesn't seem like a good idea to attach drawer handles to the panel material since its so thin! Super new to stuff like this but it seems like a project i could easily handle!
Basically im debating between 2 options... 1st option is just doing solid/ slab face drawer front to have the hardware be centered on the drawer face.. not sure if it would look weird with different style of cabinet doors.. 2nd option is to do rails / stiles on the drawer faces and mount the hardware on the top rail so its sturdy enough to hold... but i also don't know if that would look weird lol.. Let me know which option would be best, or if there are any alternative methods for the drawer faces!
Hey! Thanks for watching! As long as you don’t hulk the hardware down, I don’t think there would be any problems with mounting to the panel as the screw would also be supported by the drawer it’s attached to. Also, due to how well the panel is supported, it’s quite rigid in the drawers.
@@WoodNerds Thankyou so much for the reply!! I actually got lucky and showed my girl a few different options of drawer faces and she preferred the slab drawer face! I'm happy since they're a little easier lol! Also didn't love the idea of attaching the hardware to the panel since we plan on renting out the home after renovating and I could imagine someone leaning on the drawer handle and breaking the panel. Very excited to start this build, I watched a few other videos building rail and stile faces with a slot cut into the rails and laying the stiles inside. They all seemed very intimidating for a beginner to wood working, but your method is AWESOME for a DIY option and not having to use hardwood is a huge cost saver! Thanks again, you've earned a subscriber!
It depends on your skill level, the quality of the pine, and the tools you have. In my opinion, mdf is great because it won’t warp, it comes flat and as straight as you can cut it. If the pine isn’t the right cut from the tree it has a high chance of warping. Also, it seems counterintuitive but mdf is actually harder to dent than pine since pine is super soft.
@@WoodNerds Thank you for your reply! I will see if I can get pre cut MDF and if not I’ll get the cutting guide jig and do it myself haha I only have hand tools and a small drop saw but it should do. I need to make 4 large cupboard doors which is nerve wracking
@nontrickpony wherever you get your lumber might be able to make the cuts for you for free or a small fee. If not, often there will be a local woodworker you can reach out to and pay them to make the cuts for you. When I first started I knew a guy who would make cuts for free, just because he was happy to see someone still interested in making things.
Do u use mdf board to make the cabinet frame too or just to make the cabinet doors ? I was wondering to see if I should make the whole cabinets in my kitchen with mdf .
Im sure you could. I know they make cabinets out of particle board. In my opinion though, plywood is the industry standard and when it comes to structural integrity in a bigger box like that where force can be applied across multiple axis, I’d probably stick with plywood. I could be mistaken so take that opinion lightly!
Hi, I’ve been wanting to redo my walking closet, the one that came with the house has no drawers, only a bar for hanging… Do you have a video for closets?
Hey! Thanks for commenting! I haven’t done a closet video yet, but I am remodeling our house so I’m sure it’ll come up in the future. I haven’t specifically looked for any videos that might be out there on the topic to recommend either. I believe the wood whisperer did one not too long ago for his wife that I’m sure has a lot of good info in it.
The center panel should still be good at 1/8”. Using 3/4” for the frame on top of that will make a pretty thick door(7/8”). It’s all preference so maybe try a sample before fully committing. Shouldn’t cause any issues though.
I bet you could! I think trying to glue that together and keep it all straight might ruin your day haha. I haven’t tried it that way yet but I can see it being a pain.
Well welcome to a great hobby and super valuable skills to build. The reason you’d use the filler for plywood is to help hide the layers in the plywood. Even after painting (if untreated) you’ll see the layers so the putty or filler helps even them out. You can also use edge banding for plywood to help hide those plies. Mdf does not have layers or plies so nothing to hide. A quick sanding on the edges and it’s ready for the painting process. In my opinion, I find the mdf route to be easier to get a finer painted finish.
Hey! I’m just using the standard construction grade blade that comes with the saw but that is typically true. More teeth means smaller teeth though and that makes it harder to cut. As long as you’re steady, it won’t matter too much in my experience. You’ll have to sand the tool marks off the edges either way and with mdf that isn’t too hard of a task. If you plan to do this, maybe make a test cut with the saw and blade you have, to see if the results are acceptable to you. I find that the best when it comes to making decisions.
Thanks for the suggestion! I’ve seen them before. The models I’ve found are $1k+ machines. I was thinking of getting the kreg foreman($300+). Any experience with the foreman vs the castle?
@@WoodNerds I just upgraded from the kreg foreman to the foot operated castle machine. I built my cabinet company with the foreman. I am thrilled with the castle because it’s so much stronger of a connection and it’s shocking how much easier and forgiving the alignment is. There isn’t much forgiveness with the kreg foreman, however with the castle you can back the screw out as many times as you need to re align the work pieces and it’ll suck tight every time. I really like it for plywood to plywood connections, super strong.
@Theuniverseisstrange I appreciate the information! I plan on building out my garage in the near future. Probably 18 cabinets (10 floor, 8 upper). Having a quality machine would really improve the process. I’ll have to weigh that price tag.
@MAE74961 I think it’s a great way to gain some skill. So in that way it’s totally worth it, however, you can buy cabinet carcasses for pretty cheap these days. If you’re just trying to get it done and save time and effort, buying and assembling is probably the way to go.
In my opinion and experience, if you simply pay attention to the paint on the doors and touch up any spots that might have sustained damage, exposing unprotected mdf then you shouldn’t have any issues. Water won’t penetrate waterproof paint and water is the main concern when using mdf as a material. I made cabinet doors for my bathroom (in another video I posted) and I’ve had them up for almost two years at this point and the bathroom is high use, high humidity, high temperature fluctuations with zero issues. If you’re unsure, maybe try them out first in your bathroom. This will give you an opportunity to try the building process, and abuse them on a smaller scale before committing to a whole kitchen.
Cool idea, but I will stay with solid wood for door frames. Pretty much no worries about cracking or stripping out. Pocket holes are not an issue with solid wood. Not to mention how heavy MDF sheets are and how much more nasty dust they create working with them. Also, why not use dowels instead of screws? Doweling jigs are cheap, they are hidden, with no big ugly pocket hole, holes to fill. Dowels have been around much longer than pocket hole screws. Course just my opinions. :)
I guess it takes some practice or perhaps your circular saw blade isn’t in line with the baseplate? I had a Ryobi circular saw that was impossible to use with the rip cut guide because the saw was far out of alignment.
I was thinking about buying a Slam Simulator 2000, but after this review I think I’m just going wait for the 3000. Once they figure out how to make it stronger.
That’s true! The 2000 has a feature I didn’t have time to showcase called “where’s the toaster?”. This feature had my wife testing the durability of the cabinet doors inside the house as well. Pretty neat!
I think the 3000 is semi-fully automatic.
🤣🤣
I dunno. They just don’t make Slam Simulators like they used to. Probably made overseas.
It’s a shame, really!
If MDF is tough enough to take the abuse of being made into a car subwoofer box, suffer the hot/cold cycles of a being in a car trunk, slamming junk into it while making tight turns, not rattle apart from the bass, and still look decent after all that time... it can be a cabinet door haha. Thanks for proving it! Certain materials get a bad rap, but this goes to prove that the reputation is not always deserved.
Great points! I appreciate you man! Thanks for watching!
Unless you plan on putting those cabinets in the kitchen near the sink, liquids or moisture from steam/hot water…….. oh wait
@JameyKing. Sure, if you don't protect it with paint, or caulk, or something else... oh, wait.
Chill out man, the point is still valid haha
If it’s sealed with a top layer, then moisture cannot reach the material.
@@WoodNerds I agree mostly but the moment you get a crack in the paint you never believed would happen because you "made this right" and it starts slowly warping and disintegrating..... Ask me how I know.
I primed my MDF until they looked like white wood. I used Benjamin Moore Bath and Spa paint. I had a very very solid coating. It looked factory made. Got a tiny split where the panel met the style and ignored it. It was about 5ft from my guest bath shower that never gets used so I figured no problem. The door quickly became wet paper after a few months of random multi night guests showering. I know it's a non issue if this doesn't happen to you with the split but this wouldn't have been an issue at all with Plywood. Maybe it's where I am in California but plywood is about $25 more for 4x8 Baltic birch 3/4 ply than the MDF equivalent. I guess I just don't think it's worth cheaping out on if you're already investing the effort to build it. But like I said I agree MDF gets a bad wrap. I've built closets with it and it's fantastic.
All I got is a Circular Saw and a drill. I'm tired of these diy videos with expensive machines...wait a God dang minute...woah, this is awesome. THANK YOU!
Haha! I know the struggle! Happy to make videos for makers that don’t have a full shop! Going to keep it in mind for future videos as well. Thanks for watching and for leaving a comment!
You still need those exp Creg jigs
I’m starting my life over alone. I think I can do this thanks to you and people like you on RUclips. Thank you for your hard work and explanations.
You got this!! I mess things up so often haha. If I can make them, you can too. Thanks for watching and taking time to leave a nice comment! I appreciate it.
I don't have the space, money, or desire to purchase a table saw and it's really tough to find videos that don't require one, or a gazillion dollars of high end equipment. So from the bottom of my fledgeling woodworker heart, THANK YOU 🙏
Of course!! I’m glad this video was helpful! Thank you for watching and taking time to comment!
Same here! This is an awesome vid!
Thank you! I really appreciate it!
This was very helpful. I desperately need 3 Binet doors or I’ll be forced to hang curtains. 😮 So I am happy to see an alternative to buying “all the equipment.” Thank you for the video! Very entertaining as well.
I appreciate it! I plan to make more videos using less expensive tools for this reason. It can be challenging to figure out a legit building method without them but people have been building amazing things with their hands for ever! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
I've always been more impressed what someone can do without a table saw.
I agree! Or craftsman that can make beautiful furniture with hand tools only. Technology helps bridge the skill gap for sure.
If you wanted to just reface your cabinets, this has got to be the best way to do it east and fast with great results. Great videos.
Man, for someone living on a rental and wanting to give an upgrade to the old cabinets, this is perfect.
I’m glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching and for leaving a comment! I appreciate it! Cheers!
Love all the "experts" who give advice here...
Just watched the work bench vid from 4 years ago, then clicked into this bearded lumber jack bro immediately after. Talk about evolving into ultimate form!
Hahaha! I appreciate it man! Thanks for watching!
THANK YOU! What a great tutorial! Everyone says stay away from mdf, it's not for water place etc... This makes me feel so much better.
Of course! Thanks for watching! If probably cared for, it will last! Just make sure if it sustains damage and the raw mdf is exposed, that you touch up the paint. Water is the main enemy of mdf and the paint acts as a barrier to protect it. Other than that, should be a solid door. I’ve had some I made in my high use/high moisture bathroom for almost two years and they are still perfect.
Another awesome video brother. Keep up the good work. I can’t wait for the next one.!!!
I appreciate you man! Thank you!
Nicely done! I used this same technique to make a plywood 4’x8’ door and it turned out great.
I’ve been wanting to do the same to satisfy my wife’s need for a sliding barn door! Thanks for watching!
Wonderful Video with paint process and everything, and I need that Slam Simulator!!!
Thank you! They just had a Black Friday sale on them!
LOL. 🤣 The Slaminator did not meet the expectations. Good shaker style construction. 👍
Hahaha thanks for watching!
I've got to get me Slam Simulator 2K, but I think I'll upgrade the control module to a toaster oven. Lol. Great job on the cabinets.
lol! That’s too boojiee for me! Thanks! I appreciate it!
Excellent video! I'll be making my mock shakers with 1/2" panel and 1/4" trims to give it weight and less depth from edges to panel but really appreciate the circular saw method! I've built a work table with DIY drop-down saw guide but that Kreg jig is brilliant. Subbed.
I’ll have to try that method out! Thanks for watching and following along!
@@WoodNerds I'm now thinking your method with 1/2" edges might allow for a decorative bead inside it so thanks for the inspiration!
@NealosMetropolos of course! Would also be cheaper by about 50% as the more expensive plywood makes up just the border rather than the full panel.
@@WoodNerds I'm a scientist (physics) and fully approve your Slam Simulator 2000 testing methodology and results! 🖖
@NealosMetropolos hahaha thank you! It’s official!
You are such a great teacher! I am just watching videos to learn to build things and have been purchasing some tools, but I don't have the space for a table saw and this really helped me to start my first project which will be a drawer. ❤ Thank You!
I’m glad the video was helpful! Congratulations on starting with your new hobby! I hope your projects turn out well!
Excellent job as usual. Happy that you keep the content easy to follow. Subbed for the videos, rang the bell for the awesome t-shirts lol!
Thank you! Haha I was just replying to another comment about needing to work on more designs! I seriously appreciate the support! Cheers!
GREAT video for folks that don't own a router or table saw!
Thanks for watching! I remember the struggle! Trying to think of those without all the goodies.
Results are a total surprise. I have only used MDF as sacrificial layer to protect "good wood" or as the inner panel on a painted door.
Best "unconventional" usage of toaster I've ever seen on YT.
Not the worst paint job to be honest.
Nice circular saw skills as well. I'd go with table saw anyways, even if I'd had to by new one. But you've made your point, man.
The only one grumping - I'd fill pocket holes with Dyna Patch Pro patching putty before gluing.
And I'd use No More Clamp Wood Glue Adhesive for that pocket joinery - 15 mins approx to dry enough to keep working.
Great job, neat video - thank you, man!
Haha! My wife was less amused!
I appreciate the perspective! I’ll have to look that stuff up. Being able to keep working would make this process much more efficient!
Thanks for watching and taking time to leave your thoughts! Cheers, man!
Great video. And for anyone who is on a real budget and cannot afford a lot of tools, this is perfect. I have tool but cam appreciate making this way so that everyone can have something that look nicer. Also, these would be a great cabinet refresh for rental properties. If they get messed up by a bad tennant, its an easy and cheap replacement, while looking modern and stylish.
Great points! Thank you for the kind words!
Loving those kreg jigs
You can make a lot of them yourself but they are very handy!
I build things with mdf all the time. My whole miter station is entirely mdf.It's very underrated. It's strong, flat, and stable. The only down side is It's dusty.
I’ve been using it for about lot of projects for those reasons exactly! Dude! Dusty is an understatement haha. Routing it is the worst!!
Perfect
Now all I need to know is how to make the cabinets.
I’m working on plans for this as we speak!
I was able to accomplish a similar look and design by using 1/2” MDF panels and 1/4” strips glued to the front to simulate rails and styles. Glued and nailed down, gaps filled with spackling and sanded smooth. You can’t even tell they’re MDF once they’re painted.
I’ll have to try that out too! Thanks for watching and sharing your experience!
I like how the name of the paint matches you!
Getting ready to down size houses. My expensive solid wood 38” cabinet doors are twisting and curved and they are only 3 years old! Next house, building my own! Thank You!
Dang! Sorry that happened. Of course! Glad the video helped! Mine are in great shape still.
Thanks man. Im buying my first house but can only afford smaller older homes. I can drywall, fix siding, and general construction stuff all day, but millwork is a much finer end product. Most places I can afford have old cabinets, many broken/missing doors and this is giving me confidence in being able to fix/replace.
You can do this no problem! If I can do it, anyone can (I mean that). Cabinets seem much more daunting than they really are once you get into them.
amazing video!! In Canada where I live, a sheet of MDF is actually same price, if not slightly more than a full sheet of plywood of the same thickenss. Its crazy this used to be considered a "cheap" alternative. Not for me :(
I’m sorry to hear that! Things are wound so tight these days. I have hope we’re close to a point where it starts to swing back. I appreciate you watching and taking time to leave a comment!
Great video. To be honest I’ve always shied away from MDF but I’ll be giving it a go now thanks to you! New sub, blame Mitt. But so glad for the suggestion. And as the master himself says, keep up the good work. Wow that top setting on Slam Simulator, otherwise known as “little brother ate the last pop-tart” was impressive!
“Mitt” is ruining RUclips for me! Haha thanks for watching and leaving a comment man! Bagel mode was too much for the simulator to handle.
Great video
Thanks man! I appreciate it! Same for you. Your recent cabinet video helped a bunch of people. Cheers!
I do own a table saw, but for the application I have (basement storage cabinet doors) I don't need the fancy dados/mortise and tenon joinery. This should be super easy and good to go.
Nothing wrong with quick and easy!
Fantastic tutorial! Now I just got figure out how to make the actual cabinets..
Thanks man! I’m working on some plans for cabinets as we speak haha.
@@WoodNerds oh wow,I didn’t think you would actually make one, now I’m def subscribing to get the video when it’s out!
Haha I appreciate that!
The explanations along the way were so helpful. A couple of questions: 1. Was the primer water-based? I've heard that could raise the MDF fibers but maybe just sanding would take care of that. 2. The edges didn't need to be filled to conceal the two pieces of MDF coming together? It maybe was addressed when you talked about using MDF for both. Nothing wrong with MDF doors! And the tool cost is so minimal. I don't understand the people who complained about that. The fence is reasonably priced, a cheaper pocket hole jig could be used, and one wouldn't really need a jig for the handles. I actually think I could do this!
I think it is water based. I didn’t experience any raised fibers when I used it. In my experience, MDF can be exposed to a little water here and there without it blowing up. It’s sitting in water and lots of exposure over time that really hurts it. Plus, once you have a light coat on the MDF, every coat afterwards isn’t touching the MDF, it’s only building on previous layers of paint so you should be fine with that.
I didn’t have to do anything special outside of what I showed in the video. I try to showcase every step so you know what to expect and can plan accordingly. Making sure your cuts are square and accurate will ensure you don’t have a lot of messy cleanup to worry about when it comes to gaps and such.
It was much easier than I thought. Safety is most important here. Just be aware of where those blade are, and where they are going to be and keep your hands out of that path.
@@WoodNerds thanks so much for the reply!
Happy to help :)
Thanks for the great video. The screws are causing a bulge in the MDF. Any tips for that?
A bulge on the opposite side or the side of the hardware? Could try a bigger pilot hole. If it’s on the opposite side of the hardware, might need shorter screws!
DWL . Love this video. Your slam simulator is the icing on the cake😆
Hello, great video thanks for sharing your awesome skills!
Question: Is 1/8" MDF the same thing as 1/8" hardboard?
Hi! Thanks for watching! The two seem to be very similar. If anyone sees this and knows better, please correct me, but I believe hardboard is just like mdf but a higher density.
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing. Sending you some beer money 😀
Lesleigh! Thank you so much! I really appreciate it! Cheers! 🍻
Great video, thank you so much. Quick question, what paint color you used?
Of course! It’s “clary sage” satin finish, using a “cabinet and furniture paint” base to help mitigate wear and tear. I think the manufacturer is sherwin Williams!
thank you for this helpful advice and demonstration :) now I know MDF is OK.
another good test would be to slam the panel door in the other direction, a reverse slam. to see when and how the hinges might fail.
Dude! Great idea. Might have to order a slam simulator 3k for that test!
Love this video, have a question about paint though. Our kitchen cabinet frames have all been painted with oil based gloss white so of course we would want the doors to match. Will the MBF accept the oil based paint without swelling or would a primer need to be painted first to seal it? The paint will be spray painted.
Hey! I’ve tried both on MDF and haven’t had any issues. Any time I talk to a paint specialist, they say primer is a must regardless the material or top coat paint type.
Awesome 👍🏼 video! Like the music and style a lot
Thank you! I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
The toaster was the icing on the cake.
My wife wasn’t thrilled but it had to be done.
Thanks for the video! Glad to have found a video not requiring a table saw.... new to wood projects so I was wondering why you used pocket screws instead of a nail gun? Is it a matefial difference in quality/sturdyness? I am trying to do MDF to an existing flat panel wood door
I think the screws will help hold the rails and stiles together in a way that you’d get if you used joinery (dado and tenon joinery in this case). Otherwise, if the panel flexes, you might end up with the rails and stiles separating. I haven’t actually tried this out so it’s an assumption but I’d rather the extra hold there in case the little bit of glue holding them together wants to give up the ghost.
Curious how it feels to clean, Is it rough to the touch with a wet wash cloth? Any snagging the wash cloth? Cleans easy?
No issues that I can speak of. If you want it super smooth you can use a gloss or even semigloss paint. The higher the coat count the more plastic like and smooth it will be.
Really like your design, thanks
Have a look at Stuart at Proper DIY exact cuts circular saw. Put the two ideas together? Just an ixea
Thanks for watching! I’ll check it out! Thanks for the recommendation!
I'm glad youtube brought you through my algorithm! I like how this worked up and I might have to use these doors on a wall cabinet set i want to build in the living room
Thanks for watching! If you do make them, I’d love to hear how they turned out!
Great video! I have a question for you... since I don't have local access to 1/8 inch MDF, can I glue up 1/8 inch HDF with the 1/2 inch MDF? Thanks in advance!
Hey! Thanks for taking time to comment! I don’t think that would be an issue! It’s all compressed fiber board so the transition should look similar (I believe).
@@WoodNerds Good to hear. I will give it a go and report back in due time.
@munchkyn56 awesome! Yeah, I’d be interested to hear the results!
Thank you, you demonstrated this very well. Love the doors and can you tell me the color you painted it.
Thank you Lynn,
Of course! It’s “clary sage” satin finish, using a “cabinet and furniture paint” base to help mitigate wear and tear. my wife picked it up at Lowe’s. I think the color manufacturer is sherwin Williams!
Many, Many Thanks for posting this DIY for cabinet doors without a table saw or router and the little details & tips throughout are extremely helpful. Will this method work just a well with 1/4" & 1/2" plywood? I only ask because that is what I purchased for this project, before finding out it was going to require more tools/skills than I have...LOL!
Plywood can be used but you’ll want to use edge banding or some type of filler on the edges to get a clean result. In my experience the ply’s in plywood are too visible and often times contain voids that show through when painted without treating the edges first.
Great video! When you explained the benefit of mdf to mdf, it made me question what you could use for a trim piece for added design. I know you can use the router, but that doesn’t exactly apply to the lack of equipment that is the focus of this video. There’s lots of small trim options. Wonder if you could glue trim where the rails/styles meet the panel for added detail? Thoughts?
That’s a great point! There is a bunch of trim options that could spice the basic shaker design up with almost no added effort, and since the doors are the same size, you could easily batch them together. I’m partial to adding coves in my trim work and think they would dress this up. I’ll have to try that out. Great idea!
These videos are fantastic! I can't afford the store prices and have never tried anything like this, so thanks for making this so easy. However, do you think MDF would work for a slab cabinet? I’m kind of a minimalist and I think slab cabinets just look clean.
Thank you! Yeah, I think mdf would work perfectly for that. Would be much easier if a project as well. You’ll likely have to get a thicker sheet though so you don’t cut through with when drilling the holes for the hinges!
@@WoodNerds Awesome! Thank you so much! We need an update STAT, so I’ll let you know how it goes! 😅😁
Hi Tyler. Where did you purchase the MR50 rated MDF from? I've checked the big box stores like HD and Lowe's and could only find MR10 rated board at Lowe's.
Hey! I picked mine up from a local lumberyard! If you have one within driving distance, give them a call. I’ve saved a bunch of money buying from a lumberyard vs big box store. Better quality and people on staff that actually know about their products.
Very well explained! Thanks
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the very through tutorial 👍
Of course! Hope it was helpful!
Dude you made this look so doable I can't wait to give it a try. My last quote for Cabinet Door Shaker Style $98 per door. I have 40 doors in my Kitchen so $3,920. What do I have to lose. Thank you for the video and your time.
It’s really not hard. Try a couple to get the process down and make sure they turn out how you want, then batch the process and make the rest. Making sure to test fit and dry assemble along the way. Good luck!
That was a thoughtful and methodical tutorial, kudos.
Thank you, Mark! I appreciate you taking time to respond!
Great video
Thank you! I appreciate it!
Thanks for the video, everything is great and beautiful. But when I drilled the holes for the handles from the back side, it didn’t turn out nicely, so that this wouldn’t happen, put an unnecessary piece of MDF under the drilling site, and then drilling into it wouldn’t happen. The doors turned out wonderful!
Dude! Glad to hear they turned out nicely! Thanks for sharing your results!
🎉 thanks for the information 🙏 👍🏻 🇿🇲
Thanks!
Dude! Thank you! I really appreciate it!
@@WoodNerds Dude you're so welcome!
I have seen countless videos thinking I would need a table saw, router table, trim router, planer, jointer, DIY crosscut table saw sled, furniture grade birch ply and woodgrain filler to make a competent cabinet door.
Your doors are great looking, clearly sturdy enough and way easier to build than the alternatives.
@ShaneTheGeek I’m stoked the video was helpful! I got some feedback on my last cabinet door video that a lot of people didn’t have table saws etc. and wanted an alternative way to make them. Took me a bit to figure it out but I’m glad I was able to come up with an easy solution!
Awesome video! Well done, sir.
Thank you, Scott! I appreciate you taking the time to comment! It helps! Cheers man!
Great video! Thanks for all the helpful info! And forget the haters commenting about the extra tools needed to make a really good quality cabinet door….they can certainly not use a track saw or jigs and make themselves wonky cabinet doors! Question-I can’t find the $0.50 paint can pourer; where did you get it?
Just found your channel. Good pacing, humor, and straight to the point. Looks like your channel might have died out before I found it though. Bummer.
Hey Matt! I really appreciate it man! Channel isn’t cooked yet haha just taking a break! Wife is pregnant so all my time has gone to finishing up some long overdue house projects haha. I have a bunch of videos I’ll be working on in the near future! Thanks for watching!
LOVE YOUR CONTENT BRO!
I really appreciate that! Thanks for watching and taking time to leave a comment! Cheers man!
Loved this video! I am planning to redo all my cabinet doors and was hoping to make a “thinner” door and this will work great. Is the 1/8 inch panel ACTUALLY MDF , or is is tempered hardwood? For some reason I can’t find 1/8 mdf where I live.
Mine is mdf, might be listed as 3mm sheet. I have some hardboard as well and while I haven’t used it for the panel before, I don’t think it would cause any issues to use that instead. I say this without experience using that material for that purpose of course so take that with a grain of salt.
great build whats the name of that paint color?
Hey! Thank you! It’s “clary sage” by sherwin Williams! Satin sheen!
Question: do you have visible seams where the 2 pieces of mdf meet?
Hey! Very slight indication that two pieces meet. If you watch my other cabinet door video, you can see similarly what it looks like in detail.
Would it be an issue to use 1/4” MDF instead of 1/8”? I can’t find 1/8” at any of my local options.
1/4” will increase the overall thickness and heft of the door. Should be fine.
I like your content and style.
Thank you for the compliment! I appreciate you taking time to say something!
I am happy to view. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Here in Brazil we use MDF a Lot, for everything. There is waterproof MDF for wet areas
Thanks for sharing your insight Ronie! Much appreciated!
Awesome video!
Thank you! I appreciate it! Cheers!
hey im planning on using this method on my cabinets! one question is for the drawer faces, would you just not do rails/ styles on the drawer faces? or same type of build and mount the hardware to the panel... just doesn't seem like a good idea to attach drawer handles to the panel material since its so thin! Super new to stuff like this but it seems like a project i could easily handle!
Basically im debating between 2 options...
1st option is just doing solid/ slab face drawer front to have the hardware be centered on the drawer face.. not sure if it would look weird with different style of cabinet doors..
2nd option is to do rails / stiles on the drawer faces and mount the hardware on the top rail so its sturdy enough to hold... but i also don't know if that would look weird lol..
Let me know which option would be best, or if there are any alternative methods for the drawer faces!
Hey! Thanks for watching! As long as you don’t hulk the hardware down, I don’t think there would be any problems with mounting to the panel as the screw would also be supported by the drawer it’s attached to. Also, due to how well the panel is supported, it’s quite rigid in the drawers.
@@WoodNerds Thankyou so much for the reply!! I actually got lucky and showed my girl a few different options of drawer faces and she preferred the slab drawer face! I'm happy since they're a little easier lol! Also didn't love the idea of attaching the hardware to the panel since we plan on renting out the home after renovating and I could imagine someone leaning on the drawer handle and breaking the panel.
Very excited to start this build, I watched a few other videos building rail and stile faces with a slot cut into the rails and laying the stiles inside. They all seemed very intimidating for a beginner to wood working, but your method is AWESOME for a DIY option and not having to use hardwood is a huge cost saver!
Thanks again, you've earned a subscriber!
Love when that happens haha. I appreciate it! Good luck with your project!
Would MDF be better than pre cut pine planks?
It depends on your skill level, the quality of the pine, and the tools you have. In my opinion, mdf is great because it won’t warp, it comes flat and as straight as you can cut it. If the pine isn’t the right cut from the tree it has a high chance of warping. Also, it seems counterintuitive but mdf is actually harder to dent than pine since pine is super soft.
@@WoodNerds Thank you for your reply! I will see if I can get pre cut MDF and if not I’ll get the cutting guide jig and do it myself haha I only have hand tools and a small drop saw but it should do. I need to make 4 large cupboard doors which is nerve wracking
@nontrickpony wherever you get your lumber might be able to make the cuts for you for free or a small fee. If not, often there will be a local woodworker you can reach out to and pay them to make the cuts for you. When I first started I knew a guy who would make cuts for free, just because he was happy to see someone still interested in making things.
Do u use mdf board to make the cabinet frame too or just to make the cabinet doors ? I was wondering to see if I should make the whole cabinets in my kitchen with mdf .
Im sure you could. I know they make cabinets out of particle board. In my opinion though, plywood is the industry standard and when it comes to structural integrity in a bigger box like that where force can be applied across multiple axis, I’d probably stick with plywood. I could be mistaken so take that opinion lightly!
FN well done!
Haha Thank you! I appreciate it!
Can you do a follow-up where you accidentally bonk the door with a heavy pot? Have to wash a mustard off?
Haha! Yeah! I’ll have to Make a video like that!
Try Flotrol in your paint... it will level much better and not "dry" up on you when brushing or rolling. I don't paint without Flotrol
I’ve seen this mentioned a few times! I’ll have to experiment with it. Thanks for the recommendation!
Still not sure if I am measuring cabinets correctly. I need 9 doors. Do you sell the ones you make??
Wonderful Video and
Very enlightening. Tyvm 👌👌👍👍😊😊
I appreciate it! YWVM!
What depth did you set your pocket hole jig?
Will 1/4 inch mdf work? Having trouble finding 1/8 mdf
For this method I think 1/4 inch would be fine. The thicker you go, the heavier the door will be but 1/4 inch isn’t a crazy jump.
Hi, I’ve been wanting to redo my walking closet, the one that came with the house has no drawers, only a bar for hanging… Do you have a video for closets?
Hey! Thanks for commenting! I haven’t done a closet video yet, but I am remodeling our house so I’m sure it’ll come up in the future. I haven’t specifically looked for any videos that might be out there on the topic to recommend either. I believe the wood whisperer did one not too long ago for his wife that I’m sure has a lot of good info in it.
Where can I find mdf for $10?? Great vido!!
If I used 3/4" MDF how thick should the center panel be? Or the same 1/8"?
The center panel should still be good at 1/8”. Using 3/4” for the frame on top of that will make a pretty thick door(7/8”). It’s all preference so maybe try a sample before fully committing. Shouldn’t cause any issues though.
When drilling/positioning for the handles, be aware of where the pocket hole screws are. That can be quite frustrating.
Great point!
Would you even need to screw the original frame? If you have straight edges between rails and stiles, couldn’t you just glue to panel directly?
I bet you could! I think trying to glue that together and keep it all straight might ruin your day haha. I haven’t tried it that way yet but I can see it being a pain.
you dont need to go through the paint process you do with plywood if mdf material is being used?
Are you talking about using some sort of filler on the edges with plywood before painting?
@WoodNerds yeah2 the wall putty thing or body filler in the whole playwood and sanding something like that. btw im beginner of this
Well welcome to a great hobby and super valuable skills to build.
The reason you’d use the filler for plywood is to help hide the layers in the plywood. Even after painting (if untreated) you’ll see the layers so the putty or filler helps even them out. You can also use edge banding for plywood to help hide those plies.
Mdf does not have layers or plies so nothing to hide. A quick sanding on the edges and it’s ready for the painting process.
In my opinion, I find the mdf route to be easier to get a finer painted finish.
I was wondering what blade you were using - does it matter ? Someone said the more teeth it has the smoother the cut
Hey! I’m just using the standard construction grade blade that comes with the saw but that is typically true. More teeth means smaller teeth though and that makes it harder to cut. As long as you’re steady, it won’t matter too much in my experience. You’ll have to sand the tool marks off the edges either way and with mdf that isn’t too hard of a task. If you plan to do this, maybe make a test cut with the saw and blade you have, to see if the results are acceptable to you. I find that the best when it comes to making decisions.
@@WoodNerds thanks for info !!
Of course! Happy to help!
Checkout the castle pocket cutter. Way better than kreg and much stronger. You could definitely get two screws in with a castle.
It’s much easier and forgiving to align pieces due to their patented low angle pocket.
Thanks for the suggestion! I’ve seen them before. The models I’ve found are $1k+ machines. I was thinking of getting the kreg foreman($300+). Any experience with the foreman vs the castle?
@@WoodNerds I just upgraded from the kreg foreman to the foot operated castle machine. I built my cabinet company with the foreman.
I am thrilled with the castle because it’s so much stronger of a connection and it’s shocking how much easier and forgiving the alignment is. There isn’t much forgiveness with the kreg foreman, however with the castle you can back the screw out as many times as you need to re align the work pieces and it’ll suck tight every time.
I really like it for plywood to plywood connections, super strong.
@Theuniverseisstrange I appreciate the information! I plan on building out my garage in the near future. Probably 18 cabinets (10 floor, 8 upper). Having a quality machine would really improve the process. I’ll have to weigh that price tag.
Awesome!
Thanks for taking the time to watch and leave a comment!
Would it be worth making my own cabinets as well as drawers and doors?@WoodNerds
@MAE74961 I think it’s a great way to gain some skill. So in that way it’s totally worth it, however, you can buy cabinet carcasses for pretty cheap these days. If you’re just trying to get it done and save time and effort, buying and assembling is probably the way to go.
@@WoodNerds okay thanks for the advice!
@MAE74961 happy to help! Good luck with your project!
Do you think these would hold up in a kitchen? Or should I bite the bullet and use better wood? I hate my current cabinet doors
In my opinion and experience, if you simply pay attention to the paint on the doors and touch up any spots that might have sustained damage, exposing unprotected mdf then you shouldn’t have any issues. Water won’t penetrate waterproof paint and water is the main concern when using mdf as a material. I made cabinet doors for my bathroom (in another video I posted) and I’ve had them up for almost two years at this point and the bathroom is high use, high humidity, high temperature fluctuations with zero issues. If you’re unsure, maybe try them out first in your bathroom. This will give you an opportunity to try the building process, and abuse them on a smaller scale before committing to a whole kitchen.
@@WoodNerds good deal. Thank ya sir!
Of course! Good luck with your project! I’d love to hear how it goes if/when you end up making them.
@@WoodNerds I’ll be sure to let ya know!
That door is too pretty for the slam simulator!!!
Haha! Still looks good! I’ll save it in case I need to replace one of my other doors I guess!
Cool idea, but I will stay with solid wood for door frames. Pretty much no worries about cracking or stripping out. Pocket holes are not an issue with solid wood. Not to mention how heavy MDF sheets are and how much more nasty dust they create working with them. Also, why not use dowels instead of screws? Doweling jigs are cheap, they are hidden, with no big ugly pocket hole, holes to fill. Dowels have been around much longer than pocket hole screws. Course just my opinions. :)
Abso f*#%’n lutly going to try this build method out!! I love the video for a number of reasons!! 😜😂😂
Hey Misty! Thanks for watching and taking time to leave a comment! If you do, id love to know how your cabinet doors turn out!
As soon as I saw the Kreg rip cut, I was out. 😂 I've tried and I could *not* get a consistent width.
I guess it takes some practice or perhaps your circular saw blade isn’t in line with the baseplate? I had a Ryobi circular saw that was impossible to use with the rip cut guide because the saw was far out of alignment.