I think its funny how many people have opinions on things without ever doing tests or experiments. Thanks for being one of the few who actually find REAL answers.
Loved this video and thank you for the follow up. Did the same on my 05 Toyota Tundra. Used needle scaler, air impact, wire wheel on angle grinder, pressure wash, phosphoric acid (kleen strip concrete metal prep) (PS do not rinse phosphoric acid) Rustoleum rust reformer, then flat black rustoleum. It's a frame in the rust belt... It's a war...Of course we have to keep going back for touch ups. We could nuke... pull the box and cab everything off the frame, sandblast, stop at the bank then epoxy coat, but if we had we still would have to do periodic maintenance. The way we did it, rust does not gain ground and our truck will be good for as long as we have them. Matthew 6:19,20-Lay not up for yourselves treasures upon earth, where rust corrodes, but in heaven where rust doth not corrode.
This was a good informative video and I appreciate your time in making it. We’ve got to keep up good maintenance and make our trucks last for the long haul. Keep up the good work.
To get rust of the boxed in part of the frame you can get a cheap drain auger, tie on a few chain links, put the auger in there and connect a drill. It chips the rust off pretty well! I’m using oil coating inside my frame.
people on the internet always bugging, completely unrelated, but i crashed my old dodge dakota bent the frame in 2 places i pulled it straight as much as i could with a chain and a pole and putting the truck in reverse, hurt my neck straightened the frame a bit. and drove the truck problem free for over 3 years. i got rid off it because i blew 2 rear axles in it from doing a bunch of burnouts.
Yep, in my opinion it’s worth it to put more than an old truck is worth into it if you’re doing it yourself. It’s cheaper than a new vehicle and you can fix it yourself! Unlike a new one! And the tools are always cheaper than getting it done professionally unless it’s A/C work, which is optional.
You can only ever do what you can do to help frames in conditions like this. As long as you fight the fight you'll be OK, only offering this as suggestion, no criticism at all. 1) Use an anti salt wash in spring and give the whole frame a good cleaning with it and touch up any bare rusty spots. The wash kills off the chemical action that causes the rust. 2) In autmn before the salting begins again spray the whole thing with chainsaw bar oil or other oil based protection that can be washed off if necessary including the inside of the rails etc. Good work keeping it on the road and good luck.
In Canada an Oil Spray is sometimes used .It will seep into joints and cracks that paint cannot go . it woks good But just like any thing else if it is in a spot that gets hit with water or dirt it must be replaced in those areas.There are shops that spray oil for $100.00
Just a heads up that Rustoleum came out with a new "Rust Reform and Seal" Rubberized, rust dissolving paint for vehicles that's been getting rave reviews everywhere. It is much more effective at dissolving rust, keeping rust away, and the finish is much more durable than paint.
You want to keep away from the rubberized stuff. Paint is OKAY but not great. What you really should do with paint is get a wire wheel/grinder and take each section you're preping down to bare metal before you paint. Oil coating is best because if you paint over rust, it compounds the problem.
Would it help to set up a sprinkler on your drive and drag it under from front to back when you get home or even park on it with a 1 min timer set to wash the salt off at night? I don’t have this problem in Aus though
Your frame repair is fine. I wouldn’t waste my time repainting just oil coat it. Brush painting with rust oleum does last longer but is a pain in the ass to do.
Not bad considering you didn't remove the body or bed to get to the frame $80 bucks not bad the frame repair was completely adequate maybe next time paint and then later treat with fluid film.
HELD UP 💯 I REMEMBER THE OTHER VIDEO DOESN'T SEEM LIKE 2 YEARS AGO. O YES WE LOST 2 YEARS WITH THE COVI.. I REMEMBER WAITING FOR THE NEXT VIDEO DURING THAT TIME WHILE MESSING WITH MY OWN MOWERS IN A BONE DRY FIELD WE HAD A HEATWAVE THAT YEAR . 😎💯
Not bad, if it’s working for you- let the haters hate… I’ve seen where there’s some better stuff than rusoleum out there, but it costs more… so go for it and keep your rig on the road…
Looks like it worked to me pretty good. After you get it all done again some guys would spray the entire underside with bar and chain oil or fluid film. Just another idea. Maybe that does not help or work--I do not know. Thanks for the videos.
The problem with that is when the paint chips, the fluid film can’t creep over and self-heal. And then water and salt is free to creep under the paint and wreak havoc. That’s just my opinion.
Авто/Мото
I think its funny how many people have opinions on things without ever doing tests or experiments. Thanks for being one of the few who actually find REAL answers.
Loved this video and thank you for the follow up. Did the same on my 05 Toyota Tundra. Used needle scaler, air impact, wire wheel on angle grinder, pressure wash, phosphoric acid (kleen strip concrete metal prep) (PS do not rinse phosphoric acid) Rustoleum rust reformer, then flat black rustoleum. It's a frame in the rust belt... It's a war...Of course we have to keep going back for touch ups. We could nuke... pull the box and cab everything off the frame, sandblast, stop at the bank then epoxy coat, but if we had we still would have to do periodic maintenance. The way we did it, rust does not gain ground and our truck will be good for as long as we have them. Matthew 6:19,20-Lay not up for yourselves treasures upon earth, where rust corrodes, but in heaven where rust doth not corrode.
Watched the original video and thought I would like to see how that hods up after a few years. Thanks for the update, good job
This was a good informative video and I appreciate your time in making it. We’ve got to keep up good maintenance and make our trucks last for the long haul. Keep up the good work.
These are the videos I look for as a fellow New Englander. Great job man
To get rust of the boxed in part of the frame you can get a cheap drain auger, tie on a few chain links, put the auger in there and connect a drill. It chips the rust off pretty well! I’m using oil coating inside my frame.
Go back to kitchen
Thanks for easing my conscience! I will definitely use this frame paint and primer on my car frame now :)
people on the internet always bugging, completely unrelated, but i crashed my old dodge dakota bent the frame in 2 places i pulled it straight as much as i could with a chain and a pole and putting the truck in reverse, hurt my neck straightened the frame a bit. and drove the truck problem free for over 3 years. i got rid off it because i blew 2 rear axles in it from doing a bunch of burnouts.
Great going, with how expensive vehicles are getting. We've gotta make what we have last.
Yep, in my opinion it’s worth it to put more than an old truck is worth into it if you’re doing it yourself. It’s cheaper than a new vehicle and you can fix it yourself! Unlike a new one! And the tools are always cheaper than getting it done professionally unless it’s A/C work, which is optional.
You can only ever do what you can do to help frames in conditions like this. As long as you fight the fight you'll be OK, only offering this as suggestion, no criticism at all. 1) Use an anti salt wash in spring and give the whole frame a good cleaning with it and touch up any bare rusty spots. The wash kills off the chemical action that causes the rust. 2) In autmn before the salting begins again spray the whole thing with chainsaw bar oil or other oil based protection that can be washed off if necessary including the inside of the rails etc. Good work keeping it on the road and good luck.
Yeah that held up real good Goodwell thank you for the video tell John I said hi
$80.00 in product and probably 8 hours of Physical Labor saved your Ranger for another 2 Years.
GOOD JOB!
In Canada an Oil Spray is sometimes used .It will seep into joints and cracks that paint cannot go . it woks good But just like any thing else if it is in a spot that gets hit with water or dirt it must be replaced in those areas.There are shops that spray oil for $100.00
Wire brush. Clean and degrease. Owterol rust inhibitor. Red oxide then two top coats
Have you looked into doing oil undercoating?
Just a heads up that Rustoleum came out with a new "Rust Reform and Seal" Rubberized, rust dissolving paint for vehicles that's been getting rave reviews everywhere. It is much more effective at dissolving rust, keeping rust away, and the finish is much more durable than paint.
You want to keep away from the rubberized stuff. Paint is OKAY but not great. What you really should do with paint is get a wire wheel/grinder and take each section you're preping down to bare metal before you paint. Oil coating is best because if you paint over rust, it compounds the problem.
Would it help to set up a sprinkler on your drive and drag it under from front to back when you get home or even park on it with a 1 min timer set to wash the salt off at night? I don’t have this problem in Aus though
It aint stupid when it works, gave me an idea now 👍🏻
I say that performed decent. Fair amount of rust showing up again. I’d bet if you used a lanolin coating every year you’d fully stop the rust.
Your frame repair is fine. I wouldn’t waste my time repainting just oil coat it. Brush painting with rust oleum does last longer but is a pain in the ass to do.
Where did you buy or how did you build that lift?
Rust reformer works wonders
How many coats the first time?
Not bad considering you didn't remove the body or bed to get to the frame $80 bucks not bad the frame repair was completely adequate maybe next time paint and then later treat with fluid film.
I get that it worked well but, why not just use an oil spray like NH oil? They are far superior since they flow around where its needed.
Nice, the danger Ranger soldiers on
I feel like I'm getting a dissertation from Mr Gilbert Gottfried. I watched the whole video. :)
HELD UP 💯 I REMEMBER THE OTHER VIDEO DOESN'T SEEM LIKE 2 YEARS AGO. O YES WE LOST 2 YEARS WITH THE COVI.. I REMEMBER WAITING FOR THE NEXT VIDEO DURING THAT TIME WHILE MESSING WITH MY OWN MOWERS IN A BONE DRY FIELD WE HAD A HEATWAVE THAT YEAR . 😎💯
Man can’t even tell it was patch but good looking work. Where about s in Maine do you live? We should get together some time and ride some tractors
Come join the Drag racers.
@@redneckcomputergeek where about s is that and I Ben wanting to build one
facebook.com/groups/228498694268316
Not bad, if it’s working for you- let the haters hate…
I’ve seen where there’s some better stuff than rusoleum out there, but it costs more… so go for it and keep your rig on the road…
Thank god there's no snow in Southeast TX 😂😂
If it works it works. Most people with opinions never work on there own junk.
Looks like it worked to me pretty good. After you get it all done again some guys would spray the entire underside with bar and chain oil or fluid film. Just another idea. Maybe that does not help or work--I do not know. Thanks for the videos.
Bar & chain oil dissolves right away under salt and gravel, because it's less of a protective barrier and more of a moisture repellent.
Man I’d hate to live in snowy salty conditions year round. Luckily Texas doesn’t get much snow
Two years, wow. Talk about a road tax..
Should have just oiled it down after you painted it, or used Fluid Film.
The problem with that is when the paint chips, the fluid film can’t creep over and self-heal. And then water and salt is free to creep under the paint and wreak havoc. That’s just my opinion.
@@KekeeBlack that's exactly what fluid film does I'm guessing you've never used it?
Love the attitude change in the comments😂
As a fellow mainah I enjoyed this video good job neighbor