@@steveford5763 From what I researched it's just a more expensive version of the regular Rustoleum enamel. You're paying for the color matching for your tractor.
I would be interested in starting with rusty parts, and then seeing if any of the "rust" paints actually do control the rust (and do a few with normal paint, etc. just to see how significant the difference is).
Technically if you analyze this closely, although I question wether the edges of the metal actually got evenly or thick enough paint on them. Still if you examine this you can kind of see how they would do. Steel it & Rustoleum enamel will be better than nothing & buy you some time to get it worked on later. The others will buy you less time based on how they failed so fast I would say Krylon is third since it is a enamel but I wouldn't buy it, just if you already have bought it, it'll help.
I've been redoing snow plows for years. If you really want to make the Rustolem paint last a LONG time and resist chipping along with making the shine from gloss paints last longer, buy the Rustoleum by the quart or gallon and use a small touch up gun from Harbor Freight. Both Valspar and Majic (Tractor supply) paints sell pint bottles of hardener that you can mix in before you spray. Only mix what you need, use acetone for the thinner, NOT naptha. READ the labels, Lol Once mixed, the pot life is around 4 or 5 hours and it will still harden inside your sprayer if left overnight etc. Not only will you save a lot of money over spray cans, cleanup is minimal and the paint will dry 3 times faster, 3 times shinier,and 3 times harder and last more than double the length of time. It will resist chips and cracking better also, IF YOU DO IT SAFELY! WARNING: Now the bad part, the hardener contains nasties called isocyanates! This shit is evil. When mixing, wear gloves and keep it off of your skin. When spraying it, you MUST wear a respirator! Not a dust mask, but a cartridge based unit designed for painting. If you spray it inside, cover all exposed skin areas, wear your mask and try to create some ventilation. Our friends at OSHA require a full suit and outside pumped in air to the mask for breathing (no masks with filters) when used in commercial or industrial environments. This garbage can get in your body through skin, your eyes or whatever. Your body can not remove it and like lead it will build up over time until one day your central nervous system shuts off and you flop around like a just caught fish in the floor of a row boat and then die. Why did I even mention it then, right? Well, it really works well, is easier than powder coating and does a great job when used safely. However, we all know that some moronic idiot will try it, in a small garage with no ventilation, no mask, and no gloves. All because they are tough and don't have time to worry about stupid safety procedures. In all honesty, if you spray it outside, upwind with no mask you will probably be ok? However, about 1 in every 10,000 people seem to be extremely sensitive to isocyanates and when even briefly exposed, an ambulance ride is next, hospital second and possible permanent damage to their CNS (Central Nervous System) third. If you are stupid and that happens? I'm sorry it did but my conscience is clear.
Is the reason the Rustoleum Farm & Implement and Professional High Performance paint has all the Prop 65 warnings because of the hardeners? Is that the reason those paints are so expensive and do so well in the tests people do on RUclips? Is it possible to DIY or semi-DIY a linseed oil-based paint that can go over top old paint jobs? I am building a greenhouse from discarded security doors, most of which are iron. Since this project is happening in my small back yard, I don’t want to poison the soil by sanding it sandblasting down to the bare metal. I’m trying to go the least toxic route, because my daughter is in remission from cancer.
@@monkeytrainer8135 Rustoleum Farm and implement paint by itself is just an oil based enamel if I remember correctly/ It works good but does not have a hardener in it. Using it out of the can will work. It takes a long time to dry but works well in most cases.Adding the hardener will cut the drying time by 2/3rds, double the shine and UV resistance and the paint job itself will last twice as long. You can use foam rollers or a paint brush to apply it with the hardener in it, just mix small batches at a time so you run out of paint BEFORE it sets up. Now, as I mentioned before, KEEP IT OFF OF YOUR SKIN.Since it isn't being applied as an aerosol you may not need a mask if done outside? Your call? It takes longer to paint this way but the end result is almost as good as spraying it and you don't need an OSHA approved hazmat balloon suit like I wear, Lol. PS- Did I mention keeping this garbage off your skin? It seems to go in but never comes out, EVER.
@@superdog1964 - you did mention keeping it off the skin - multiple times. I remembered what you said, when I watched a bunch of car painting videos, and I noticed there were guys who were definitely heeding that danger, wearing black rubber gloves and those white tyvek suits, or at least long sleeves.
Leaving square edges on steel pretty much guarantees coating failure. The reason is that unless an impractical number of coats are applied, there is no thickness and little protection. Regarding the Rust Reformer, it is designed to neutralize existing corrosion. It should be applied, then topcoated after 24 hours. During this time, the chemical reactions essentially consume its ability to convert rust. It basically runs out of ammo. It must be topcoated to prevent recurring corrosion. I've used this product for quite a few years in refurbishing commercial and residential handrails, and have had great results. Note: I topcoat with Rustoleum because it works well, and the customer has no problems finding paint for recoats and touch-ups.
I will say, I really like your professionalism you put into your videos. You have really grown as a RUclipsr and your videos are showing it. Keep putting out amazing content
Me and guys at work had performed almost the same test. We took rusted pieces and painted them. Paint that seals out oxygen would prove to be the best paint. Rustoleum paint won that contest too. Good job!
I think for best test results they should have been primed and painted and then allowed to dry for 48-72 hours. They normally have a cure time of a least 48 hours.
I just caught this video, thanks for putting it together. I just checked the price of Steel-It, 4 years after this video was done. It's now $35.69 for a 14oz aerosol can!
Rustoleum Rust Reformer is basically made to make rusty surfaces paintable, like a "primer for rust". A good test for the rust reformer would be to take an already rusty piece of metal, spray it with the reformer, then paint over it. Great video. I'll continue using good old regular Rustoleum for my future projects!
Awesome test. My truck frame is rusty and I was going to just use Rust Reformer on it, but after seeing your test I've decided to prime with Rust Reformer and then topcoat with the Rustoleum gloss. Thanks!
@@FreedomFundsTV I assume paint. truthfully haven't used this stuff much or recently, but I'm guessing they have suggested paints to use after the rust reformer. Probably something else they make for you to buy!
Thanks for making this video, I am making a go kart in high school as a school project and knowing what product to use (on a budget) to keep the metal frame from rusting is really helpful!
rust-oleum it is then. Going to respray a 1994 steel bike, i told people it's a vintage bike, but they didn't believe me. Went online to get new chain-ring and according to my crank it's now vintage by Shimano lol. Love the old stuff, lasts and lasts. Thanks for doing this bud, cool as.
Good video, Im wondering if you used Steelit as a base layer then rustolem on top if you would get the best protection. Chipping the paint on a $30+ can of paint makes that not worth it to me....
Thanks for going through this and providing some answers! My brother just built up a couple of a axles and covered them with POR15. Might take a bit more effort than a rattle can, but will hold up
I personally would have sanded the metal, Primed, and two coats of paint. Then did the test. I have done a similar test But used a separate container sto minimize cross contamination, at the end found that Rustoleum did the best even with a little better preparation. Was a good video for people to see and prove not all paints are created equal 👌
A note for thought...the ends where you cut the metal would be more porous than the rest of the pieces...so that would clearly rust first. The Rust-oleum Rust Reformer is rusting due to it needing to be primed and painted. It is not a rust preventative, but a transform the rust to metal to be painted. I bet if you used it and them primed it and painted it...it would hold up a lot better.
My process for steel products used in a salt water environment. Step 1: sand Step 2: wipe with acetone then dry cloth Step 3: Rustoleum etching primer (2 coats) followed by light sanding and wipe with acetone then dry cloth. Step 4: Rustoleum 2 in 1 primer (2 coats) followed by light sanding and wipe with acetone then dry cloth. Step 5: Appliance epoxy paint (2 coats) followed by very light sanding and wipe with acetone then dry cloth. Step 6: Clear Top coat (1 or 2 coats). Results: Easily 2 years of saltwater protection. Never had any peeling.
In my experience I have found out that Rust-Oleum paint will last and works the best for rust and pretty much any krylon doesn't cover near as good and just chips off way easier so I always buy Rust-Oleum that's for sure great video
Ever notice that people don’t use punctuation anymore...so frustrating! If you wanted the bumpers to actually look nice, would you use a clear top coat to extend the life of the Rustoleum?
Very good thank you for doing this. I used 3 light coast rustoleum etch primer then 2 coats rustoleum semi gloss. The sliders are doing well. Had to shoot a couple rock chips but easy peasy touch ups !!
First zinc 95,% cold galvanized spray paint $12.00 per spray can. From Connect-it Wireless Products. This is what they use on all Radio, Cellular and TV towers. Commercial grade paint.👍👍👍 This is a silver cold galvanized color. My second best primer is RM7 (rusty metal primer # 7) it's made by Rust-Oleum. I've painted metal Arc weld two sections of metal together over the paint, the paint has less than 1/8 of an inch burn back. 👍 This primer color is a off Rusty red it also stops rust that's existing on metal from continuing to grow.
That's a pretty good test based on the way some people would use the paints. But I can't say it's a fair test of the paints. Paint prevents rust by sealing the surface against water penetration, not by any chemical process. So the better the seal, the better the protection. That's why the primers didn't fare so well, they aren't meant to seal. Getting the best seal is all about proper surface prep and application. Wiping the plates down with mineral spirits was good but you should also have hit them with some sandpaper to give the paint the proper surface to adhere. Then you only gave the paint a single coat when most every paint I can think of recommends at least two thin coats for best performance. Finally, you started the test way too soon. Just because a paint is dry to the touch doesn't mean it's fully cured. Ideally you should have given the plates at least a day or two to set up before starting the test. I'm not bashing what you did, it was a fine test that I do think produced valid results. A lot of people will use the paint exactly the way you did. But I do think the results may have changed if the test had been more rigid. Of course, I'm certain it would also have taken longer. FYI, taking the plates out of the water was a good way of mimicking the Mil-Spec tests. Those use a spray rather than submersion to test corrosion protection. So those tests leave the pieces constantly exposed to the air while being soaked with saltwater.
TY for your time and effort doing this test. Obviously STEEL-IT is best but not affordable for my hobby projects....i will use the Rustolium Gloss Protective Enamel for my projects. TY again for this great video!
nice test! Im painting a rusty bumper and plannign to use rust reformer as a primer then cover that with the rustoleum satin enamel, hopefully that will hold up well!
I am a little late but I am redoing a mower deck and came across this video. The steel it looks awesome my question is can I put that rustoleum rust primer first then the steel it
Just the video I was looking for! I am getting ready to paint a forging press and I live about 1 mile from the Gulf of Mexico, so salty air and humidity is a factor. Is it necessary to start with a primer as long as your metal is rust free and free of oils and contaminants? Thank you
I would highly suggest checking out the Ace hardware brand “rust stop” paint. The satin black is very hardy and is my new favorite. That paint requires no primer.
Duplicolor semigloss black has worked really well for me. If I'm not going for a perfect finish I don't even worry about cleaning the surface. As long as there's no oil it sticks really well and doesn't let go.
This is brilliant, thanks. I'd love to see a comparison between this and certain coatings - electro zinc, electro nickel. Also a lot of steel roofing now has a hot dipped coating that is mostly zinc, but also contains a percentage of aluminium and magnesium and apparently the alloy is much tougher than just zinc. Love to see someone attempt to home brew this.
Rustoleum industrial enamel works great, very durable, I use it on everything. Let it cure for like 48 hours and it’s good to go. I’ve beaten my diff cover off with a hammer and barely left a mark.
@JK Gear and Gadgets, I am planning on painting my bumpers for my Jeep, would you recommend throwing on the primer that STEEL-IT offers on before applying the paint? The roads are salted & sanded in the winter. So I am looking for something that it tough. Does this paint need a clear coat or would I be ok with just the paint? I just want it to last a few years.
If you don't intent to weld you should add the primer for durability. Also for bigger parts, you should get the quart presentation. More surface for your buck. You can apply it using a primer nozzle and a spray gun :). Hope this helps!
Weird test. Primers are by design porous and not meant to be left on their own, so it's really not a meaningful comparison. The rust-reformer is meant to go on top of rust and convert it into an inert black primer-like coating - again, it's porous and once the reaction stops it's not really meant to protect the metal on it's own - it needs a top-coat to seal it. I agree high-enamel content paints are best but honestly feels like this test is comparing apples and oranges...
I have an 07 Jeep Wrangler and it has very little amount of rust mostly on bolts and welds would these for that ? I would use it mostly to prevent it going any further and help with looks.
That's basically what I just suggested. Very good results with that. I use the high heat, the chassis one you stated and the epoxy one that can be used on shocks springs basically everything other than exhaust. I still also use the Rust-Oleum with good results. Nothing beats being on top of things and being proactive and not reactive when it comes to maintenance.
Stupid Question but would you choose Rust Oleum Enamel or Hammerite paint for metal outdoor work ? I have a metal balcony staircase to paint. Big job and do it always with Green Hammerite paint but need to be painted evey 3-5 years Hammerite tends to bubble with rust after few years
Great vidio , I'm going to use it on my bike. I was reading where guys like it better than powder coating because they can see stress cracks in the frame and can weld it. Opposed to haveing to scrape off the powder coating before a weld repair. Thanks again
I like the Rustoleum high performance enamel. Dries in 15 minutes and looks better than the regular Rustoleum in my experience, partly because it dries so fast and reduces drips and sagging marks.
You didn't really use the Rustoleum Rust Reformer correctly. It's not designed to be used on bare metal. It's a rust converter, chemically changing red rust to a "black" rust which doesn't eat the metal and offers protection against red rust forming again. But it needs to have red rust to work, since the chemical reaction works off of red rust and not bare metal. It should have been used like a primer, after which you would top coat it with your choice of paint. So you use it as a rust converter/primer on already rusted metal that you don't want or can't sand down to bare metal. It's not a paint.
Rust oleum used to be my go to paint but seems like they changed the formula, it does not spray as neat and good looking as it used to, I always have issues with the cans clogging up and whatnot. If you want good paint that has the best UV and rust protection go to a tractor place and get heavy duty implement paint. It takes almost a day to dry but it last Waaaay longer.
Watching your video is making me realize the limitations of a spray can. Probably going to spend the money and have my dump truck box professionally painted.
Not a fair shot for Rustoleum Rust Reformer. I have had very good luck using this with Rustoleum semi-gloss or gloss as a top coat. It cannot be used by itself, neither can a regular primer. Other than that, nice demonstration.
@@JKGearandGadgets so I definitely need to sand it down and take off the color, spray painting over the item is not ideal? // they are the edges of the mirror
This just goes to show need a quality paint, quality job and keep the crap that causes rust off the Jeep. Thanks for the share, definatly a couple cans I have not heard of before.
I didnt hear, maybe I missed it, how many coats you did. 1 coat I wouldn't expect to do well with any of these especially things like plastic dip that specifically direct for 4-7 light coats.
What would your recommend for exhaust tips and recovery hooks? rustoleum has millions of stuff. Was thinking maybe the engine stuff? Let me know. Thank you
Which of the paints is the most durable one? I'm making a knife out of some high carbon steel and I want to protect it against rust, but I hate oiling the blade, so I decided that I would simply spray paint it.
I have used Rust-Oleum also with good results. My alternate suggestion is VHT epoxy paint it's self priming made for all weather and rust and salt resistant. Temp rated at 250° F. Can be bought at AutoZone and probably any other major autoparts store. Thanks for the video. I also use fuid film for extra protection over the winter.(Northeast) mine is a 16 yes not old but looks new still underneath except for the crappy Rubicon shock finish don't have a problem w the shocks but the finish is crap.
Hey so you gotta remember that to get a legit study you need to actually use it as designed. The high heat paint has to go through a series of heat cycles before it's cured. All the paints need to be cured not just dried before use. Also the reformer needs to be used as a primer. Now redo the whole test with each paint over primer and then again over reformer.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
1st - Steel It ($18 - $28)
2nd - Rustoleum Stops Rust (
What about John deere farm equipment 7435830.
Cost about 16.00 worth it ???
@@steveford5763 From what I researched it's just a more expensive version of the regular Rustoleum enamel. You're paying for the color matching for your tractor.
I would be interested in starting with rusty parts, and then seeing if any of the "rust" paints actually do control the rust (and do a few with normal paint, etc. just to see how significant the difference is).
Technically if you analyze this closely, although I question wether the edges of the metal actually got evenly or thick enough paint on them. Still if you examine this you can kind of see how they would do. Steel it & Rustoleum enamel will be better than nothing & buy you some time to get it worked on later. The others will buy you less time based on how they failed so fast I would say Krylon is third since it is a enamel but I wouldn't buy it, just if you already have bought it, it'll help.
😂 some of the products are not for coating rust.
I've been redoing snow plows for years. If you really want to make the Rustolem paint last a LONG time and resist chipping along with making the shine from gloss paints last longer, buy the Rustoleum by the quart or gallon and use a small touch up gun from Harbor Freight. Both Valspar and Majic (Tractor supply) paints sell pint bottles of hardener that you can mix in before you spray. Only mix what you need, use acetone for the thinner, NOT naptha. READ the labels, Lol Once mixed, the pot life is around 4 or 5 hours and it will still harden inside your sprayer if left overnight etc.
Not only will you save a lot of money over spray cans, cleanup is minimal and the paint will dry 3 times faster, 3 times shinier,and 3 times harder and last more than double the length of time. It will resist chips and cracking better also, IF YOU DO IT SAFELY!
WARNING: Now the bad part, the hardener contains nasties called isocyanates! This shit is evil. When mixing, wear gloves and keep it off of your skin. When spraying it, you MUST wear a respirator! Not a dust mask, but a cartridge based unit designed for painting. If you spray it inside, cover all exposed skin areas, wear your mask and try to create some ventilation. Our friends at OSHA require a full suit and outside pumped in air to the mask for breathing (no masks with filters) when used in commercial or industrial environments. This garbage can get in your body through skin, your eyes or whatever. Your body can not remove it and like lead it will build up over time until one day your central nervous system shuts off and you flop around like a just caught fish in the floor of a row boat and then die.
Why did I even mention it then, right? Well, it really works well, is easier than powder coating and does a great job when used safely. However, we all know that some moronic idiot will try it, in a small garage with no ventilation, no mask, and no gloves. All because they are tough and don't have time to worry about stupid safety procedures. In all honesty, if you spray it outside, upwind with no mask you will probably be ok? However, about 1 in every 10,000 people seem to be extremely sensitive to isocyanates and when even briefly exposed, an ambulance ride is next, hospital second and possible permanent damage to their CNS (Central Nervous System) third. If you are stupid and that happens? I'm sorry it did but my conscience is clear.
If all social media comments were like this one, the world would be a better place. Seriously. Great comment. Great info.
@@commonmancrypto1648if all social media was like that no one would read it. lol. But yes very informative and well said.
Is the reason the Rustoleum Farm & Implement and Professional High Performance paint has all the Prop 65 warnings because of the hardeners? Is that the reason those paints are so expensive and do so well in the tests people do on RUclips?
Is it possible to DIY or semi-DIY a linseed oil-based paint that can go over top old paint jobs?
I am building a greenhouse from discarded security doors, most of which are iron.
Since this project is happening in my small back yard, I don’t want to poison the soil by sanding it sandblasting down to the bare metal. I’m trying to go the least toxic route, because my daughter is in remission from cancer.
@@monkeytrainer8135 Rustoleum Farm and implement paint by itself is just an oil based enamel if I remember correctly/ It works good but does not have a hardener in it.
Using it out of the can will work. It takes a long time to dry but works well in most cases.Adding the hardener will cut the drying time by 2/3rds, double the shine and UV resistance and the paint job itself will last twice as long.
You can use foam rollers or a paint brush to apply it with the hardener in it, just mix small batches at a time so you run out of paint BEFORE it sets up.
Now, as I mentioned before, KEEP IT OFF OF YOUR SKIN.Since it isn't being applied as an aerosol you may not need a mask if done outside? Your call?
It takes longer to paint this way but the end result is almost as good as spraying it and you don't need an OSHA approved hazmat balloon suit like I wear, Lol.
PS- Did I mention keeping this garbage off your skin? It seems to go in but never comes out, EVER.
@@superdog1964 - you did mention keeping it off the skin - multiple times. I remembered what you said, when I watched a bunch of car painting videos, and I noticed there were guys who were definitely heeding that danger, wearing black rubber gloves and those white tyvek suits, or at least long sleeves.
Leaving square edges on steel pretty much guarantees coating failure. The reason is that unless an impractical number of coats are applied, there is no thickness and little protection.
Regarding the Rust Reformer, it is designed to neutralize existing corrosion. It should be applied, then topcoated after 24 hours. During this time, the chemical reactions essentially consume its ability to convert rust. It basically runs out of ammo. It must be topcoated to prevent recurring corrosion.
I've used this product for quite a few years in refurbishing commercial and residential handrails, and have had great results. Note: I topcoat with Rustoleum because it works well, and the customer has no problems finding paint for recoats and touch-ups.
I will say, I really like your professionalism you put into your videos. You have really grown as a RUclipsr and your videos are showing it. Keep putting out amazing content
Me and guys at work had performed almost the same test. We took rusted pieces and painted them. Paint that seals out oxygen would prove to be the best paint. Rustoleum paint won that contest too. Good job!
Steel it is not a rust converter, ffs.
I think for best test results they should have been primed and painted and then allowed to dry for 48-72 hours. They normally have a cure time of a least 48 hours.
Ys
I just caught this video, thanks for putting it together. I just checked the price of Steel-It, 4 years after this video was done. It's now $35.69 for a 14oz aerosol can!
Rustoleum Rust Reformer is basically made to make rusty surfaces paintable, like a "primer for rust". A good test for the rust reformer would be to take an already rusty piece of metal, spray it with the reformer, then paint over it.
Great video. I'll continue using good old regular Rustoleum for my future projects!
Yep, not fair to only use rust reformer which isn't a paint. He should coat the bare metal piece with RR and then top coat it and see what happens.
Awesome test. My truck frame is rusty and I was going to just use Rust Reformer on it, but after seeing your test I've decided to prime with Rust Reformer and then topcoat with the Rustoleum gloss. Thanks!
Used the cheap 99c spray paint from wal mart that you had on your left side on my truck chassis seems to be working well for rust
POR15 for the frame, Rustoleum for everything else! Great video and thanks for putting in the work for us.
Scott
Only use por15 if theres already rust. Otherwise rustoleum like hell
@@codyparker679 Yeah I wonder if the Rustoleum reformer would have worked better if there had actually be rust in the sample.
@@mickjager5974 I have rust on my frame, what should I put on after rust reformer?
@@FreedomFundsTV I assume paint. truthfully haven't used this stuff much or recently, but I'm guessing they have suggested paints to use after the rust reformer. Probably something else they make for you to buy!
@@mickjager5974 they make a farmers implement paint in a can 😬
Thanks for making this video, I am making a go kart in high school as a school project and knowing what product to use (on a budget) to keep the metal frame from rusting is really helpful!
rust-oleum it is then. Going to respray a 1994 steel bike, i told people it's a vintage bike, but they didn't believe me. Went online to get new chain-ring and according to my crank it's now vintage by Shimano lol. Love the old stuff, lasts and lasts. Thanks for doing this bud, cool as.
Good video, Im wondering if you used Steelit as a base layer then rustolem on top if you would get the best protection. Chipping the paint on a $30+ can of paint makes that not worth it to me....
Thanks for going through this and providing some answers! My brother just built up a couple of a axles and covered them with POR15. Might take a bit more effort than a rattle can, but will hold up
I personally would have sanded the metal, Primed, and two coats of paint.
Then did the test. I have done a similar test But used a separate container sto minimize cross contamination, at the end found that Rustoleum did the best even with a little better preparation.
Was a good video for people to see and prove not all paints are created equal 👌
Yep good prep is to sandblast and degrease. The most expensive coatings insist on thorough prep.
I am only painting outdoor furniture but this is SO helpful!
A note for thought...the ends where you cut the metal would be more porous than the rest of the pieces...so that would clearly rust first. The Rust-oleum Rust Reformer is rusting due to it needing to be primed and painted. It is not a rust preventative, but a transform the rust to metal to be painted. I bet if you used it and them primed it and painted it...it would hold up a lot better.
My process for steel products used in a salt water environment.
Step 1: sand
Step 2: wipe with acetone then dry cloth
Step 3: Rustoleum etching primer (2 coats) followed by light sanding and wipe with acetone then dry cloth.
Step 4: Rustoleum 2 in 1 primer (2 coats) followed by light sanding and wipe with acetone then dry cloth.
Step 5: Appliance epoxy paint (2 coats) followed by very light sanding and wipe with acetone then dry cloth.
Step 6: Clear Top coat (1 or 2 coats).
Results: Easily 2 years of saltwater protection. Never had any peeling.
In my experience I have found out that Rust-Oleum paint will last and works the best for rust and pretty much any krylon doesn't cover near as good and just chips off way easier so I always buy Rust-Oleum that's for sure great video
Ever notice that people don’t use punctuation anymore...so frustrating!
If you wanted the bumpers to actually look nice, would you use a clear top coat to extend the life of the Rustoleum?
What do you think about the steelit or rustolium then the hammered over it for the texture?
That would be a great combo
@@JKGearandGadgets thanks Ben
Very good thank you for doing this. I used 3 light coast rustoleum etch primer then 2 coats rustoleum semi gloss. The sliders are doing well. Had to shoot a couple rock chips but easy peasy touch ups !!
Rustoleum is the only paint to use. Been the best for years, besides por15
First zinc 95,% cold galvanized spray paint $12.00 per spray can. From Connect-it Wireless Products. This is what they use on all Radio, Cellular and TV towers. Commercial grade paint.👍👍👍 This is a silver cold galvanized color.
My second best primer is RM7 (rusty metal primer # 7) it's made by Rust-Oleum. I've painted metal Arc weld two sections of metal together over the paint, the paint has less than 1/8 of an inch burn back. 👍 This primer color is a off Rusty red it also stops rust that's existing on metal from continuing to grow.
That's a pretty good test based on the way some people would use the paints. But I can't say it's a fair test of the paints. Paint prevents rust by sealing the surface against water penetration, not by any chemical process. So the better the seal, the better the protection. That's why the primers didn't fare so well, they aren't meant to seal. Getting the best seal is all about proper surface prep and application. Wiping the plates down with mineral spirits was good but you should also have hit them with some sandpaper to give the paint the proper surface to adhere. Then you only gave the paint a single coat when most every paint I can think of recommends at least two thin coats for best performance. Finally, you started the test way too soon. Just because a paint is dry to the touch doesn't mean it's fully cured. Ideally you should have given the plates at least a day or two to set up before starting the test.
I'm not bashing what you did, it was a fine test that I do think produced valid results. A lot of people will use the paint exactly the way you did. But I do think the results may have changed if the test had been more rigid. Of course, I'm certain it would also have taken longer.
FYI, taking the plates out of the water was a good way of mimicking the Mil-Spec tests. Those use a spray rather than submersion to test corrosion protection. So those tests leave the pieces constantly exposed to the air while being soaked with saltwater.
TY for your time and effort doing this test. Obviously STEEL-IT is best but not affordable for my hobby projects....i will use the Rustolium Gloss Protective Enamel for my projects. TY again for this great video!
Good video. The Rustoleum is what I use underneath my truck and I use the Hammer Finish stuff on my sliders.
The Rust Reformer is meant to be a primer of its own that you then cover with a top coat. Helps to prevent further rust spread. Not good on its own
nice test! Im painting a rusty bumper and plannign to use rust reformer as a primer then cover that with the rustoleum satin enamel, hopefully that will hold up well!
Great video ben, very useful test as almost all of us Jeepers use spray paint👍
I am a little late but I am redoing a mower deck and came across this video. The steel it looks awesome my question is can I put that rustoleum rust primer first then the steel it
I would have used separate containers to prevent contact rust.
We’re not building a Rolex
@@SouthernYankeeLifestyle Yeah just a Casio!
2:25 - the word you're looking for is control.
Thanks
Why in the world would we want to prevent the control in testing? Isn't that the opposite of sciencing?
Just the video I was looking for! I am getting ready to paint a forging press and I live about 1 mile from the Gulf of Mexico, so salty air and humidity is a factor.
Is it necessary to start with a primer as long as your metal is rust free and free of oils and contaminants? Thank you
I would highly suggest checking out the Ace hardware brand “rust stop” paint. The satin black is very hardy and is my new favorite. That paint requires no primer.
This was an awesome video! Thanks for taking the time to do it!
Where do you buy steel-it?
Duplicolor semigloss black has worked really well for me. If I'm not going for a perfect finish I don't even worry about cleaning the surface. As long as there's no oil it sticks really well and doesn't let go.
Can you use rust covert first followed by the rustoleum paint or is that over kill? Can you use the rustoleum paint on the frame?
This is brilliant, thanks. I'd love to see a comparison between this and certain coatings - electro zinc, electro nickel. Also a lot of steel roofing now has a hot dipped coating that is mostly zinc, but also contains a percentage of aluminium and magnesium and apparently the alloy is much tougher than just zinc. Love to see someone attempt to home brew this.
Just curious, what was your cure time for them before the salt bath? Would they have perform better if there was a 24 or 48 hr cure time?
did you test Epoxy spray paint? Like that Rustoleum appliance epoxy? or VHT epoxy?
I use the Rust-Oleum self etch Primer I like the the dark green tint, no sand spray final coat 20 to 30 mins after your prime coat.
me too
This vid will help so many people. Thanks Bro!
Rustoleum industrial enamel works great, very durable, I use it on everything. Let it cure for like 48 hours and it’s good to go. I’ve beaten my diff cover off with a hammer and barely left a mark.
How long did you let them dry before you put them in the salt water ?
@JK Gear and Gadgets, I am planning on painting my bumpers for my Jeep, would you recommend throwing on the primer that STEEL-IT offers on before applying the paint? The roads are salted & sanded in the winter. So I am looking for something that it tough. Does this paint need a clear coat or would I be ok with just the paint? I just want it to last a few years.
If you don't intent to weld you should add the primer for durability. Also for bigger parts, you should get the quart presentation. More surface for your buck. You can apply it using a primer nozzle and a spray gun :). Hope this helps!
Fantastic, and realistic video. Shows real world conditions that many of us in the NorthEast face - thanks!
I got 2 Rust-Oleum paint spray . 1.Stop-Rust Gloss Protective Enamel.
2. American Accents 2X Ultra Cover(Paint+Primer).
Home depot best selling products.
Any feedback on Rust-Oleum's Tractor & Implement Paint? I've heard good things.
Gives me some options for undercarriage touch up work, wondering if steel it would work on control arms.
Can you use Eastwood rust converter with the steel it paint? Thanks
I paint my truck frame with the rustoleum high heat. Lasts about a year and a half before I have to do it again. Wonderful stuff
Cold galvanization paint would have been interesting to test as well.
Weird test. Primers are by design porous and not meant to be left on their own, so it's really not a meaningful comparison. The rust-reformer is meant to go on top of rust and convert it into an inert black primer-like coating - again, it's porous and once the reaction stops it's not really meant to protect the metal on it's own - it needs a top-coat to seal it. I agree high-enamel content paints are best but honestly feels like this test is comparing apples and oranges...
Weird comment. Just scroll on.
@@EricGreniervideo weirder comment. Just scroll on.
Steel it is a top coat
Why are you spray painting stuff? you had grounded me for spray painting the side of the house I was just trying to express my self!!😡
We talked about this... 69 Mafia is not a good way to express yourself on the house son
Plasti dip didn't get a proper coating. Plasti dip is a liquid rubber not liquid paint.
none of them got a propper coat
Would you say primer + rust oleum would do better ? Or even the steel it with primer ?
I have an 07 Jeep Wrangler and it has very little amount of rust mostly on bolts and welds would these for that ? I would use it mostly to prevent it going any further and help with looks.
i'm wondering about Tremclad paint. It seems to be very popular in my neck of the woods. Considered Rust Paint but is it ?
Can you apply steel it to a frame that is kind of rusty already?
I wouldn’t. Take a look at this video on how to deal with rust. ruclips.net/video/BhTPmn-YdLk/видео.html
If you prep the surface and then apply it, yes you can!
Thank you so much for ur test brother!!! This was awesome!!!
VHT roll bar & chassis paint always worked well for me
That's basically what I just suggested. Very good results with that. I use the high heat, the chassis one you stated and the epoxy one that can be used on shocks springs basically everything other than exhaust. I still also use the Rust-Oleum with good results. Nothing beats being on top of things and being proactive and not reactive when it comes to maintenance.
@@truckerrickakamanowar true, prep before paint is probably most important before painting
I would have put them in individual containers some of that could just be rust stains from the raw bar and ones that failed
Stupid Question but would you choose Rust Oleum Enamel or Hammerite paint for metal outdoor work ? I have a metal balcony staircase to paint. Big job and do it always with Green Hammerite paint but need to be painted evey 3-5 years Hammerite tends to bubble with rust after few years
Wonder what would happen if you sprayed steel it over the rustoleum 🤔
Wot
I think brushed on Rustoleum works best?
Great vidio , I'm going to use it on my bike. I was reading where guys like it better than powder coating because they can see stress cracks in the frame and can weld it. Opposed to haveing to scrape off the powder coating before a weld repair. Thanks again
why does rustoleum call it enamel? im pretty sure its lacquer as i can never remove it with reg paint thinner.
I’d be interested to see how the steel it holds up against cold galvanizing compound from rustoleum, for painting, bare metal
I like the Rustoleum high performance enamel. Dries in 15 minutes and looks better than the regular Rustoleum in my experience, partly because it dries so fast and reduces drips and sagging marks.
You didn't really use the Rustoleum Rust Reformer correctly. It's not designed to be used on bare metal. It's a rust converter, chemically changing red rust to a "black" rust which doesn't eat the metal and offers protection against red rust forming again. But it needs to have red rust to work, since the chemical reaction works off of red rust and not bare metal. It should have been used like a primer, after which you would top coat it with your choice of paint. So you use it as a rust converter/primer on already rusted metal that you don't want or can't sand down to bare metal. It's not a paint.
Good day sir, im planning to spray paint primer inside a bladder thank, will this prevent corrosion inside the bladder tank? please help me sir
Rust oleum used to be my go to paint but seems like they changed the formula, it does not spray as neat and good looking as it used to, I always have issues with the cans clogging up and whatnot. If you want good paint that has the best UV and rust protection go to a tractor place and get heavy duty implement paint. It takes almost a day to dry but it last Waaaay longer.
I love the rustoleum hammered, lets see how it does.
Watching your video is making me realize the limitations of a spray can. Probably going to spend the money and have my dump truck box professionally painted.
Not a fair shot for Rustoleum Rust Reformer. I have had very good luck using this with Rustoleum semi-gloss or gloss as a top coat. It cannot be used by itself, neither can a regular primer. Other than that, nice demonstration.
Man , excellent video very helpful.. i am doing my jl foofrack now i know what to use 👍👍
DO I need to take off the color of the metal or just spray over it? So long as the piece of metal is cleaned right?
Sand it down a little bit to rough it up, and then clean and paint
@@JKGearandGadgets so I definitely need to sand it down and take off the color, spray painting over the item is not ideal? // they are the edges of the mirror
You don’t have to take all the color off, just rough it up some
This just goes to show need a quality paint, quality job and keep the crap that causes rust off the Jeep. Thanks for the share, definatly a couple cans I have not heard of before.
The Rust reformer is meant to spray on Rust an not be a primer... I wonder if that makes any difference?
So the floor board of a van i purchased has major rust and already existing holes.. Will Steel it kill EXISTING rust and PREVENT spread??
I didnt hear, maybe I missed it, how many coats you did. 1 coat I wouldn't expect to do well with any of these especially things like plastic dip that specifically direct for 4-7 light coats.
What about the rustoleum high grade gloss enamel? Wouldnt it be better ?
What would your recommend for exhaust tips and recovery hooks? rustoleum has millions of stuff. Was thinking maybe the engine stuff? Let me know. Thank you
Which of the paints is the most durable one? I'm making a knife out of some high carbon steel and I want to protect it against rust, but I hate oiling the blade, so I decided that I would simply spray paint it.
I’m new to the Jeep world just bought my first Jeep. Why do Jeeps get rust under them ? And should I use the paint for under my Jeep.
VHT Epoxy Paint SP650 and SP651 works great. I've used POR too, but the more I use it, the less of a fan I am. When it starts to go, it all goes.
what type of metal did you use
Thanks for taking the time to do this test! Awesome!
I have used Rust-Oleum also with good results. My alternate suggestion is VHT epoxy paint it's self priming made for all weather and rust and salt resistant. Temp rated at 250° F. Can be bought at AutoZone and probably any other major autoparts store. Thanks for the video. I also use fuid film for extra protection over the winter.(Northeast) mine is a 16 yes not old but looks new still underneath except for the crappy Rubicon shock finish don't have a problem w the shocks but the finish is crap.
You can see the rust on Rustoleum and the Steel It held up way better. I think the Steel It won!
Badass video. I’m painting axles right now. Luckily I’m using Rustoleum.
Hey im impressed the 98 cent can from Walmart worked better than some of the pricier cans crazy
now I know what to use for my bumper.
Solid testing project! Thank you
Steel it is soooo good. Can you do a review of some more expensive paints in the 20 plus range?
I will add it to my list!
Hey so you gotta remember that to get a legit study you need to actually use it as designed. The high heat paint has to go through a series of heat cycles before it's cured. All the paints need to be cured not just dried before use. Also the reformer needs to be used as a primer. Now redo the whole test with each paint over primer and then again over reformer.
Yeah they all use very different formulas, there's also some really nice car automotive aerosols i would rather use
I've seen project farm use a mixture of water viniger and salt for rust testing. Normally takes a day to get rust just by spraying the mixture on it
Any suggestings for metalcloak flares? Rust-oleum didn't even last one winter.
Honestly fender flares I would think about getting powder coated
@@JKGearandGadgets Send me a check and I'll get them powder coated. :)
Jeremy Rhodes spends a grand on fenders, complains about cost of proper coating...