How to prevent airlocks in heating systems. When draining down and filling up.
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- Опубликовано: 28 ноя 2021
- #Radiator RADIATORS NOT WORKING. Air in heating system. Heating not working. After draining down the heating, now no radiators are heating.
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Thanks Al. 
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Thanks for making a video of my suggestion Al. I have always drained and filled my heating system using this method. Although I did forget to say motorised valves should be opened manually bit someone picked that up in any case.
Thanks for the idea! Thought it was a good idea worth sharing.
Excellent video mate, what a great method with pressurising it with an outside tap, genius
Thanks 👍
Hi Al and Jan😊, this is a great tip Al, whish I'd known of this a few years back, it would have saved alot of head scratching at my daughters house, cheers mate, I hope you two are doing ok , and looking forward to christmas, stay safe, best wishe's to all, Stuart UK.
Our pleasure! All the best to you too Stuart.
Thank you for suggesting the mains pressure refill technique. I tried it yesterday but unfortunately I still have the same annoying downstairs airlock that I get when I fill up from the loft tank. All the rads are full but there must be a cul-de-sac in the pipes somewhere.
Whoever invented these central heating airlocks deserves the Raspberry of the century award. I bet it was that Archimedes bloke. He was always bragging about the smart Alec stuff he does with water.
Another Raspberry goes to the flares and Bay City Rollers loving chappie in the 70s who mounted our heavy bedroom radiator using just 4 one inch screws. Thanks very much. I took off the old leaky valve and the bloomin' thing just fell off the wall. Grrrrrrr!
Finally, a special big Raspberry to the wasp that tried to fly into my ear in the loft. It's amazing how fast someone can move in a confined space once the adrenaline kicks in.
All good plumbing tips. Thanks, ha ha
Backfilling from the mains. Fantastic idea. Tie up the f&e float valve. Check that some clumsy oafs, usually those folk who put in additional loft insulation, haven't wrecked the warning/overflow pipework and that it actually solvent welded and clipped up. Otherwise, in absence of another pair of hands/eyes, you might inadvertently install another invigorating cold shower. Coming thru a bedroom ceiling.
Yes too true loafer ha ha. Keep well mate and all the best. By the way do you still have that video of your apprentice doing a live stopcock change? Would love to use it.
Al.
@@dereton33 No, Al. That wasn't me. Think it was chunky lad from Leeds. Allen Hart. He's a really nice fella.
Thanks Alan 👍🏻
Very welcome
Thanks 😊
No problem 😊
Great videos mate. In that house layout u are using. Where would the mains switch for the boiler be installed???
Usually under the boiler, if not then switch off the breaker to the boiler.
@@dereton33 ok, cheers mate. i will have a look into it.
Hi I'm a new viewer, and have landed on this video because I reckon I've got a sludgy old system with possible air locks I need to deal with. I'm not a plumber or any kind of expert in this, but I'd have a worry that the water company would (in theory) take issue with connecting a central heating system directly to the mains like this? By the way I'm not having a moan, you've got a good presentational style and I've subbed!
Thanks for subbing and do not worry the water company would not be interested.
Hi Al many thanks for your videos. I'm stuck with lots of air in my system now after draining down to change a mid position valve. Using the main's pressure makes a lot of sense unfortunately there isn't an expansion pipe that I can see in my loft. what would happen to the air in this situation ? Cheers Al.
Just an update Al, there is an expansion pipe it goes into the cold water storage tank. I was looking at the CH header tank. Doh;
That one will be the one from the cylinder hot water side. You may just have an auto air valve. Still worth a go with the mains, if the air valve is stuck the water will not enter the system even mains. Check your loft for one of those.
@@dereton33 Thanks for your reply Al I appreciate it. All is well now after 4 days of struggle and 4 drain downs I left it running for 2 hours and next time I looked all the rads were on and the hot water as well and no noise from the boiler. But I will look around the loft to see if I can find an auto air valve. Thanks again Al.
I have removed F&E tank and added a expansion vessel and created a seal system. Problem solved no more noise&air lock. Happy customer. I knew about this method which work, but if separator is blocked it might not worked.
Great tip! Thanks.
Not for the faint hearted Al bung the tank 💪💪💪 pull a vacuum gets the bum cheeks rattling
Ha ha too true Paul.
🚨Urgent!! where would i find the drain off valve that you soke about? ar the bottom of the ground floor radiator or on the pipe at the top of thecradiator on my boiler pipes feed in fron the top open vented
Bottom ground floor rad or on pipe work.
Set the motorized valve to the fully open position manually ?
Yes can do.
do you have to or it will happen itself
@@dereton33do you have to or it will happen itself
You have to do it yourself
I see in the drawing the HOT water comes DOWN from the top floor to the first floor and back to the boiler?
Interesting that the circulator pump is on the feed. We only see the pump installed on the RETURN side. Therefore pulling the water back to the boiler.
It quite often will be on the flow especially if going into an air separator.
Maybe its just me, but I found it a bit hard to follow
Sorry about that.
Nowhere to be found in North America. peculiar system
Most common system used in UK, Ireland and also Europe I believe aswell.. not sure about Australia and New Zealand though, but I'd imagine they probably have the same as they tend to use same appliances as UK.
We don't have ability to cut down trees so log/wood burners are expensive to run and also now widely banned in UK and Europe for climate BOLLOX reasons lol
You guys are lucky having so few restrictions.
Thanks for the info guys.