Hello I’m a new subscriber , I do gardening . I use this machines a lot , and your videos are helping me to fix them . My mowers are loosing power when they cut and the blade spins freely when I stop blade engagement . Now I know all the parts that go besides the belt . Thank u
Correct. It's not always an exact process creating the videos and I have to go back and reshoot a section, or a section is missed completely because I didn't press and hold the camera button long enough, thought the camera was filming, and it wasn't, blah, blah, blah. I realized after-the-fact that I put the pulley was on upside down.
How did you get the nut off on 2:35 seconds. I need to replace the crank shaft in my engine and this has really tripped me up. So went looking for technical manuals or videos on this. You take the nut off in this step but do not show you you loosen it. Mine spins and I am worried about breaking something if I keep the shaft from spinning trying to take the nut out. Any tips? Ok I see how you used an impact to tighten it but how did you keep it from spinning? On mine it would spin the flywheel. My model is slightly different but a lot of the parts seem to be the same 20333.
1/2" Ingersol Rand impact gun running on 130-150psi air pressure. A modern 18v 1/2" impact will also work, and has even more torque. It's important to use the black oxide, impact rated sockets, and not the chrome, standard sockets, and a quality brand. Thanks for watching!
So how do you adjust the brake tensioner? We have 3 of these at the shop and 1 of them the blade just engages all the time, I've got all new everything that goes on down there...
A few things come to mind: 1) Incorrect belt 2) Belt pinched between pulley halves during re-assembly(some of these were shipped like this from the factory) 3)The actuating cable is pulled to far rearward in the clamp that's located under the plastic covers at the top, rear of the machine. The correct position for this cable is so that when the blade engagement bail is fully "engaged," the spring at the end of the cable is just starting to be pulled. Once the bail is released, that spring end should hang fairly loosely.
I can certainly understand that. It's likely, that for a home owner, or an owner/operator who's respectful of their equipment, the mower would last a very long time. However, for the same money, the Honda HRC216 is a much better built and much more robust machine, and with the twin blade system, it bags more material before needing the bag emptied, and it has better "suction" on the grass, so it cuts and "vacuums" the lawn better. Same goes for the pro-sumer/home owner models like the HRX and HRR mowers, especially for homeowner applications.
Hello I’m a new subscriber , I do gardening . I use this machines a lot , and your videos are helping me to fix them . My mowers are loosing power when they cut and the blade spins freely when I stop blade engagement . Now I know all the parts that go besides the belt . Thank u
Thank you for subscribing! I'm glad the videos are helping you keep your equipment going.
Awesome video now I will attempt to change mine thank you
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching, and for leaving a comment!
You put the tensioner assembly bearing on upside down you said it was supposed to be flange side up on the brake
Correct. It's not always an exact process creating the videos and I have to go back and reshoot a section, or a section is missed completely because I didn't press and hold the camera button long enough, thought the camera was filming, and it wasn't, blah, blah, blah. I realized after-the-fact that I put the pulley was on upside down.
Outstanding! Thank you very much sir!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
excellent video. thank you for your time
Thank you!
How did you get the nut off on 2:35 seconds. I need to replace the crank shaft in my engine and this has really tripped me up. So went looking for technical manuals or videos on this. You take the nut off in this step but do not show you you loosen it. Mine spins and I am worried about breaking something if I keep the shaft from spinning trying to take the nut out. Any tips? Ok I see how you used an impact to tighten it but how did you keep it from spinning? On mine it would spin the flywheel. My model is slightly different but a lot of the parts seem to be the same 20333.
1/2" Ingersol Rand impact gun running on 130-150psi air pressure. A modern 18v 1/2" impact will also work, and has even more torque. It's important to use the black oxide, impact rated sockets, and not the chrome, standard sockets, and a quality brand.
Thanks for watching!
So how do you adjust the brake tensioner? We have 3 of these at the shop and 1 of them the blade just engages all the time, I've got all new everything that goes on down there...
A few things come to mind:
1) Incorrect belt
2) Belt pinched between pulley halves during re-assembly(some of these were shipped like this from the factory)
3)The actuating cable is pulled to far rearward in the clamp that's located under the plastic covers at the top, rear of the machine. The correct position for this cable is so that when the blade engagement bail is fully "engaged," the spring at the end of the cable is just starting to be pulled. Once the bail is released, that spring end should hang fairly loosely.
my savior 😭😭
Thanks for watching!
I'm not sure if I'm interested in toro if that's the work i have to deal with. I'm bot mechanically inclined.
I can certainly understand that. It's likely, that for a home owner, or an owner/operator who's respectful of their equipment, the mower would last a very long time. However, for the same money, the Honda HRC216 is a much better built and much more robust machine, and with the twin blade system, it bags more material before needing the bag emptied, and it has better "suction" on the grass, so it cuts and "vacuums" the lawn better. Same goes for the pro-sumer/home owner models like the HRX and HRR mowers, especially for homeowner applications.