They didn't do it justice. Out front the entire race, then you just dropped the hammer for 3 laps at the end of the race to blow it apart. It wasn't even close at the end. Such an insane ride in a premier crit race. Nice work.
crazy race. We were sitting at the finish line the whole race wondering when the peloton would pull the break away back in. We were cheering for you to pull it off! so awesome to see you cross the line first!
Ben Delaney, is a monster. There are two things that always strike me about his post race reviews. 1) That he can put together a cohesive and informative summary of the race and equipment after finishing and often podiuming. 2) He jumps into races with a new bike all the time. I need at least a week with a bike to feel comfortable enough to race with it and he will get a bike a day or two before a race and jump on it.
Ha, that tulsa weekend was crazy. I'm glad I could give some insight, cool to see you two's opinions on the racing! Jeff and I are doing a day one video soon- I did it on a chinese carbon build! So, stoked to see yours!
Regarding Dylan’s Unbound setup; wasn’t the whole point about his MTB tire setup that they’re faster rolling and more puncture resistant? Maybe I missed it, but it seems like Jessie didn’t catch that part of Dylan’s explainer video.
It's possible Jesse missed that part; puncture resistance was definitely one of the keys DJ was after, second only to rolling resistance (if memory serves).
Yeah, I think setup matters so much off-road because not only are you trying to maximize efficiency and speed but you have to balance reliability. Getting flats and mechanicals can be luck, but a lot of it is gear choice and skill too. You could run DH mtb tires and basically guarantee not getting a flat, or you could run light casing super fast tires and heavily risk a flat. Go more reliable, you better have the fitness. Go less reliable, you better have handling skill and luck. I think it's at least as impactful as on the road.
The magic of that Race King tire is it's somehow very fast and also pretty puncture resistant. Still lots of arguments over whether to run inserts. They hurt the effectiveness of sealant but are a lifesaver in the case of unfixable puncture.
This whole conversation got me curious to try the Race Kings for myself. Just ordered a pair. My gravel bike can supposedly clear 50s, so let’s give it a shot.
Jessie's explanation of having to swap out everything with a new bike is exactly why I went with Winspace frame and build it up exactly as I want it rather than having to get rid of have the spec and buy new wheels, cranks, stem, bars, wheels, saddle, etc.
YES! I hate it when people compare custom built bikes with a Chinese frame to a stock pre-built. Manufacturers have massive pricing power and will get parts way under MSRP. Not even to account for the selling of parts on eBay or other secondary sites.
Jesse absolutely love your build👍👍 Great to see Joe's advice, and finally a light weight super bike build that is well worth the money.. Really want this build to ride as good as it looks
I found the Dylan Johnson video self-confirmatory that what he did to prep for this race actually worked... that crazy bike setup gave him the opportunity to remain in the front group. It's not just about satisfaction for this years result for him... but also the progression - how it's changed in the 5-6 years he's been competing at Unbound... granted it's not the 9th place in 11,5hrs like in 2019 or something, but the discipline has grown so much more competitive since then. As he was saying multiple times in the video, in the stacked field even repeating another 17th place would be a very strong result. A top 10 and a lifetime podium is unreal!
Giant Propel with Sram Rival here. Absolutely no rub. Discs are still straight. Very different to my experience with mtb disc brakes, where I wouldn't even bother to try and adjust, I would just let it rub
I’m so excited for Jesse to start riding this new setup. I want his no-nonsense take on the groupset and frame. If it’s reliable and decent setup, makes me more amenable to using these components on my next build.
Absolutely love Jessie´s bike build direction. Looking forward to ride review. PS: my tip for Chris and learning mechanic stuff, just read manuals for everything :). I know it boring, but everything is there :).
im shocked.... i had no idea Chris was a Bicycle Princess to this level... WOOW! RUclips, tools and off you go, i built 4 bikes now from scratch with zero knowledge except youtube and forums, from crap bikes with mechanical to my boardman and canyon CF SLX, and now the S-Works wiht Force D2 groupset - PS: Also i am the guy who was in one of your episodes talking about upgrading my boardman SLR 9.2... i pulled the trigger on a 2021 Snake Eyes S-Works SL7 which only has 1700miles on it, guy just never rode it and stripped it to sell, comes with the stem and handlebars for only £2050, basically a new frame.. building it towards end of the month! Cant wait!
53:44 The wider tires are optimising for reducing flats (without compromising speed which seems unbelievable) and the war is against the slow move to increase frame tire clearance and tire choice. This played out in MTB long ago so for MTBers it is like watching a rerun. Gravel is so intriguing as it is where road and off road athletes and tech collide.
This is the comment I was looking for. Part of optimizing in gravel IS avoiding mechanicals, as best as possible. And, at a given risk of a mechanical, you may as well be as fast as possible.
Connex make a re-usable 12 speed chain link. Ideal for waxing chains (off and on) and it requires no tools to connect and disconnect. Use a set pair of chains for ideal maintenance swaps.
I’ve watched since you began and took a break for a coupla months (the algo stopped feeding me your show but suddenly began again ( I watch mostly cycling shows Arthur, Cade, GC Perf, Lantern R, Chris Horner, Vegan Cyclist even GNC - missed yours because I learn the most in a tight package). I’m writing because I have to say you’ve stepped up production values yet another notch - looks great!
Those aliexpress saddles are great. I've got one with the honeycomb, and it's fantastic. I ride it with running shorts and dont feel the pattern at all, so I wouldn't worry. They are very grippy if thats something you dont like
You two blokes are a breath of fresh air…notwithstanding, getting stuff for free is not an arm’s length review/test…I.e dropping your own coin = a real test/review.
Went from 172.5mm to 165.0mm Crank Length after 20 years of 172.5 and didn’t really notice and performance degradation but certainly more Comfortable and no more knee pain…..Had many Bike Fits so my position is dialed in. Can’t wait for Jesse’s bike review……..👍🏻
Saddle went up the difference between 172.5 - 165.0 so 7.5mm Saddle Up and went forward a few mm. Measure you saddle tip to your Stem Bolt before moving the seatpost then keep that number the same after you raise your saddle. Also my cadence is much easier to maintain at 90-95+ rpm than before. Enjoy.
This is an incredibly practical conversation about bike maintenance and personal parts build for a new setup. Loving it! Big fan for the maintenance series of videos. Would be cool.
Chain length is easy. Put it on the biggest ring on the front and biggest on the cassette skipping the rear derailleur and add 2 link. Has work every single time for year.
To make sure you use the absolute longest chain possible the better way is to have the chain on the smaller front chain ring and smallest at the back, make sure has no slack and proper tension , most people go the other way , from the largest cog but that is wrong. Cassettes sizes differ at the largest point but all the same at the smallest cog.
@@LivoniaLimo It makes no sense, unless I misunderstood. Chain length should be determined based on the largest cog/chainring precisely because it varies between cassettes with different ranges. It's the way Shimano and SRAM manuals advise how to determine the chain length.
@@LivoniaLimo I know, but you wouldn't keep the chain on the small chain ring and at the same time be on the smallest cog for riding. I keep the chain in that gear only when the bike is not ridden to save the rear mech spring though, so in fact, I deliberately choose my chain length to be slack in the small/smallest combo so that the spring is under minimal tension most of the time.
@@82vitt you are correct , should not cross chain but you could be on the small front and maybe 12 or 13 in the back , my point and the better method is to set up the chain for the shortest length you thing you will ever use and not the other way around , in other words put the chin on the small ring in front , whoever smallest cog you thing you gonna use that combo at the rear , size the chain long enough where the derailleur cage has a little tension and you done. Many do it the other way around and find themselves with a chain too long
I took the plunge into fully rebuilding my SL8 after getting fed up with the service at my LBS's. Slowly got all the tools together. Watched the @gcperformance video building his SL8 and brake bleed videos and honestly that was plenty. Take it slowly, don't rush. I'm as ham fisted as they come and my bike is riding better than ever. Good on you for wanting to do it yourself.
I received the CRW 6575 wheels about 2 weeks ago and have a few hundred miles on them. My set weighed 1440 grams, and they feel much like the DT Swiss they replaced. At 80kg putting 1350 watts of sprint into them I can't make the disc brakes rub. Also GP5k 32mm rubber front and rear feels like a dream. I'm not losing time on strava segments compared to old 25/28 setup, and dirt roads now feel like my gravel bike!
Last year, i bought and installed 5x ltwoo er9 groups. 1 died in a downhill with bad asphalt (vibrations). 2 died for no reason whatsoever, just riding. All 3 sound like the gearbox inside is broken. The 4th one has done almost 5k km, but has problems charging, so i've found myself charging the lithium batteries with a dedicated charger. The 5th one has seen very little use because my buddy crashed and getting a replacement front wheel has been an adventure. I really hope you get a newer batch where such kinks have been ironed out, because if not, you're going to hate yourself for choosing ltwoo :) When it does work, it works perfect though. It's fast, smooth, silent, brakes are great, you have level reach adjust, the app is awesome and you can switch from 9 to 13 speed in the app.
Whenever I buy a frame I always buy 2 extra RD hangers. Not that I buy frames that often, but that's the point; Get frame hangers while they're readily available and still likely to be reasonably priced. When I inevitably break the hanger down the line I have one I can put straight in (and it's comforting to have a spare whenever you travel) and another I can take to shops or send photos/measurements to find a replacement (since I always seem to pick frames that either aren't made any more or company has gone bust).
Having to swap parts to make it fit me as I wanted also put me off buying a new bike. I finally built a bike. It was way cheaper than buying a bike and having to sell the bits left over after the swaps. And it wasn't an Aliexpress/direct from China build. I did get the cranks/power meter from Panda Podium though.
I'm excited to see the build! I am sure it will be fast. Going from 2017 Canyon to 2022 Elves made me around 3 km/h faster at 200w. I'm surprised how little bike work Chris does, for someone who loves the equipment chat that much 😂
Timestamp 24:52 Shifting to the small ring can be bliss..and more power AND speed!! #deathto1x 56/42t is monstro. Here in South Florida “GC Perf Grant” territory, we like that. “Downshifting” my “transaxle” to the 42t is a godsend at times in this heavy, wet, hot, tropical wind.
Loving this, never usually agree with anything Jesse says but this build will be very similar to a build iveould chose. Building a bike is so much better than buying off the shelf and replacing half the parts
I've been on Campy 53/39 w/12-29 cassettes for a while. Getting my 56/42 installed now. I also went with wider cassette to 11-32 to make up for the bump from 39 to 42 for climbing. For every 3T change on the chain ring, its ~ a 1T change on the cassette when dealing with the 1T jumps on the cassette. However I made the change in order to maintain the same speeds, and lower RPM and heart rate...per Dr.'s rec.
Setting up the front derailleur is way easier and less work than changing a press fit BB in my opinion. Also the Park Tool videos are great and they have one for literally everything.
If you're careful, you can straighten the rear der hanger with an adjustable wrench. Over the years, I've found that I can hear when the derailleurs are off by sound better than by sight
Really looking forward to Jessy’s build, especially in the group set side with the performance expectations he has I’ve read some quotes from LTwoo staying that they are targeting casual rides and are not chasing the performance market and Ike that’s the cases it will show here
I respect what Jesse is doing with his new bike and I am genuinely interested in how things come out. At this point, if it were me and based on what I have seen online, the only piece that I could not comfortably pull the trigger on would be the groupset. Frame = probably, cranks = yes, bars = yes, wheels = yes, cassette = yes, rotors = yes.
Former professional mechanic here and I can’t imagine going to a shop for any normal job on a road bike. They are incredibly simply to work on and it’s only fear that stop people doing it. Just give it a try Chris and I’m sure you’ll be absolutely fine! The only jobs I hate and would pay someone else to do are rebuilding suspension forks/shocks and servicing internal gear hubs. Too many specialist tools to make it economically viable too it myself.
Good luck replacing headset bearings on my Ridley X-night, where the cables/hoses go inside the handlebar, then inside the stem into a tiny space by the steerer tube then finally pass through both the bearings. I managed to put it all together not being a pro mechanic, but boy, was it labour and head scratching involved.
What Jessie mentioned about the components is exactly the point why i went with dogma because i could spec it with 170 where the main stream comes with a 172.5 handlebar made to size etc.
Only bike job i dont do myself are wheel hubs and freehub bearings, so many different tools and specifics depending on the brand of hub i would rather just take it to a shop, also as far as Chris' s grx gremlins i would put money on it being a pinched wire or a dodgy battery, ive had a wire pinch in the headset area on an integrated set up
Wheel truing, bb change, and one piece cockpit swaps/cutting steerers are probably the only things a normal person should go to a bike shop for. Everything else is more than doable. At least if we leave out super special jobs like facing brake mounts, bb's, fork and damper maintenance etc.
I'm okay with Jesse upgrading to discs, he's earned the rim-brake lifetime achievement award for holding out this long and beside he'll always have his rim-brake bike for late-night rides under the moonlight. And it'll be great to have Jesse be a premier disc-brake bike reviewer, woohoo. And cheers to both of your for finding beneficial upgrades at good value, the story of our best lives on bikes. And about Dylan, I think his struggle, as it were, is to not accept conventional gravel bikes for racing and instead discover seemingly wild alternatives which create a better bike for each event. And turns out Lachlan did that, too, with that new helmet and belly bladder at Unbound.
Good luck with the built, I agree building a bike from scratch with hand picked components is the way to go , very curious how Jesse likes the bike , for what it is and vs his older bikes .
Two questions for you Jesse: A. Any reason to pick the Ltwo over the EDS group set ? B. In one of your past shows you mentioned about how stiff were the Lun Hyper, and that you avoid using them for long rides. It seems that the CRW will be stiff too (maybe even more than the Hyper) , so why did you decide to use that kind of wheels again? As always, great show🎉💪🏼. Looking forward for the next episode
Hi guys, great show as always. With reference to the Ryet 3d printed saddle they do eat bib shorts over a period of time. I swapped it out for the smoother style and it's a lot better, it's quite a bit firmer and doesn't have as much give, but it only weighs 113g!! Hope this helps
I went the frame buy option my last bike and it was 2k less than buy a full bike and swapping part. I will not buy a full bike again, this was such a better experience than expected. With Chris' maintenance school, check with a shop to see if they offer the Park Tool class. They offered that at my shop in the past, it is a great thing for new cyclist. Also with him riding SRAM, the derailleurs can be done blind and the micro adjust on the app is a piece of cake to clear up noisey drive train
Surprised you didn’t mention the CRW CS wheelset having 16 spokes, the same as cadex and synchros, the new gen carbon spoke wheels are all lower spoke count to make use of carbon’s tensile strength. This provides a much better ride feel.
I'm excited to see Jesse riding his new disc brake bike. I'm particularly interested in hearing his thoughts on the CRW 65/65 wheelset. It would be great if he could also compare it to the Reserve 52/63, which appears to be its closest competitor in terms of aero profile. I'm curious to learn how the 300g weight difference will impact this comparison.
Great video guys and enjoyed all the topics covered. Lamperti said in his interview he was back home until July and then he will go back to Europe for more racing but just enjoys going to Tulsa.
I personally feel like replacing press fit bottom brackets are much more involved/complex than setting a front derailleur. I've never dealt with one but the lack of threads seem more daunting to me. It could just be bias from RUclips hating on press fit and saying they always have issues. I was "forced" for learn how to set my front and rear derailleurs after the local bike shop by me would always get it horribly wrong. I found it really easy once you do it once or twice. I'm running 9 speed dura-ace and a carbon frame from the 90s though. So maybe the modern stuff has tighter tolerances? That also means my bottom bracket is threaded. Press fit, t47, etc weren''t invented yet haha
I really want to see Chris building a bike video. Looking forward to it! For SRAM chain since it has bigger rollers you need a compatible chain checker. Something like parktool CC-4. I personally use Force chain and they usually last like 1 year I guess (not sure). So far I have never been able to spot stretchy chain with Silca wax. Usually outer plate bent or something wrong like swapping gearing make me change chain.
I'm loving this, did I miss the video where the bike gets tested somewhere? I've always been someone who thinks 50% of the fun of riding is building their next bike from scratch, with zero brand loyalty... I'd love to do a scaled back generic version of this!
36mm!!! geez thats gonna be pointy. frame looks good too, nice colourway choice. groupset isnt a big investment if its no good, just try another chinese one if needed. I did the 175mm to 165mm change too, hardly noticeable in a negative way quite quickly and less hip pain (my motive). Played with seat height too, I'm pretty much up the full 10mm on the saddle (on my tcr isp rim brake weapon of mass destruction)
Great show!! As always. You should go for the Galfer rotors. They are so much better than Shimanos or SRAM. They don't bend and after heavy breaking and they are really light:)
@ChrisMillerCycling Buying a new chain every 3 months is crazy! If you're keeping it in good knick, you're just throwing away money. Shimano chains last a long time too! A chain checker will save you a ton of money
As a mechanic - modern headsets can get tricky with all the cables. Messing that up can have big consequences. Brakes can drive you nuts to get them perfect. Take on other things so brakes don’t frustrate you and cause you to give up. Just put brakes later on your list.
Yeah, I have got a Ridley X-night for offroad riding and installing the brake hoses / Di2 cables in the handlebar, then through the inside of the stem and into the tiny space by the D-shaped steering tube was a nightmare.
Same reason i went with a Elves Falath Evo 2023 frameset, and build it up with parts that FIT me, not what a Brand thinks MUST be on a bike that size. Disk brake rub is always a thing, and never completly gone. Regarding the Saddle, i have the exact same one on my bike, over 3000km and still feels great. I don´t feel the honyecomb through my bibs, nor do my bibs show any sign of wear on them. As a mechanic, i build all my bikes and service them. not hard to do at home, if you have the tools(and the space to do so.
Rim brake die-hard here. The only reason I would switch to discs is also tyre clearance (and maybe possibly a classified hub). Can't wait to see the new bike built!
Finally moving from a bike with square shaped tubes like the TCR to an aero bike is going to be an eye opener. I like your choice of going with purely chinese components, very interesting. Not sure if I would be buying an 1800 frame from china, when I can get a scott foil rc, for example, for not that much more (you gotta wait for a good deal though). Maybe I'm just a sucker. But I really respect Jessie for going his own way and showing us all what's out there - hopefully this will put some pressure on western brands
Pretty sure Shimano is based in Japan. Pretty sure loads of carbon frames are still made in Taiwan. And for now, at least, the design and aero performance of western designed frames as the edge (the only exception to this may be Factor)
@@philipk4475the presumption was frames.... Taiwan or China same thing. If a few watts in a wind tunnel is worth the 2x - 3x price by all means splash the cash. Personally I don't believe a damn thing these manufacturers say and everyone shills for them lol just built a bike for 5k 5.8kg and is as good if not better than anything 15-20k
The only time I felt a major downside with 165 cranks is when you are really struggling up a steep climb and have run out of gears. Other times you just spin faster in a lower gear. It's not a problem.
Got the Ryet saddle on my Wattbike. Nonsense about wearing the bibs out or feeling it through the chamois. Decent saddle. Thinking about putting it on my road bike.
Role of the bike shop? Two days out from the Tour of Flanders Gran Fondo. Purchase a fifty dollar shimano brake bleed kit. Screw the syringe into the bleed assembly giving it an extra tweek to make sure it won't leak. Snap the thread on the syringe. Read the instructions - DO NOT APPLY EXCESSIVE FORCE. Wheel the bike 500 metres to the local bike shop. Pick it up the same day with optimised brakes.
@nerocoaching Jesse what size frame did you pick for your new Tavello given you currently ride a size L. And what saddle height are you riding? I just had a look at the chart and a 51(L) and 54(XL) could fit.
Great idea, you can make a nice, high-end road bike using both mainstream and Chinese parts. Trifox has the x16 and x18 Speedsters which are very affordable integrated disc framesets, but can become platforms for a high-end build if you get the right components. I have a respectably light x16 Speedster with 12 speed DI2 Ultegra groupset, Dura Ace brakes and chainrings. I don't think the wheel source Trifox uses is very good, and the x16 handlebars are open mold design and generic; the x18 handlebars look a bit generic also. Essentially, the brand is a good 2nd Wave? frame manufacturer that uses some cheaper components to flesh out the framesets. I'll do a full review for my build soon, it came in under $4500. I've changed out the Trifox seat and will be changing the handlebars soon for different, 3rd Wave Chinese parts. Making a complete bike for the price of a mainstream branded frameset is getting pretty attractive for the average rider.
Seems like an exciting build, the frame might be the 1st to be switched out. I might suggest buying high quality brake pads and rotors. They can make such a big difference.
Personally I’d advise Jesse not to go expensive on the cranks cos that’s a part you might wanna change later. 1cm shorter crank will completely change your bike setup.
Looks a nice bike Jesse. For the type of riding you do I’m sure you will notice a decent bump in speed compared to the TCR. I think you will miss the simplicity of the rim brake bike those disc brake bikes don’t stay quiet for long and it won’t feel as sprightly to ride, but those wheels with the carbon spokes will make a big difference to the disc brake ride feel! They will be super quick once rolling. That XR4 you had with the countervail, direct mount brakes, low bottom bracket and 30mm tyres would have been absolutely perfect for you had you of kept it. Hopefully it all goes smoothly and more people start going for the Chinese branded bikes rather than paying over the odds for your mainstream bikes.
You're gonna be shocked at how good your new bike is gonna feel! Those wheels are so nice....I have a pair CRW 65/75. They recommend 28 mm tires for the wheels if you want maximum areo benefits. I do 28 front 30 rear.
I bought a Ryet saddle but the overall width is too wide for me. Ended up with saddle sores!!!! Have a more narrow nose saddle, hope it will stop the sores!!!
Thanks for talking about my win! Racing a 33mm Aerocoach bar and a 150m with 17degree Stem on the Simplon ;-)
you are a MACHINE, bravo.
They didn't do it justice. Out front the entire race, then you just dropped the hammer for 3 laps at the end of the race to blow it apart. It wasn't even close at the end. Such an insane ride in a premier crit race. Nice work.
Absolute weapon mate! I agree we didn't do the win justice ... and that pride II 👌🏼
Amazing race dude! As a fellow german I had to chuckle at Chris pronouncing your name as Mortice Augustine :D
crazy race. We were sitting at the finish line the whole race wondering when the peloton would pull the break away back in. We were cheering for you to pull it off! so awesome to see you cross the line first!
Ben Delaney, is a monster. There are two things that always strike me about his post race reviews. 1) That he can put together a cohesive and informative summary of the race and equipment after finishing and often podiuming. 2) He jumps into races with a new bike all the time. I need at least a week with a bike to feel comfortable enough to race with it and he will get a bike a day or two before a race and jump on it.
Chris should build Jesse's new bike
🤣🤣🤣
It's going to have enough problems without resorting to that level of building ineptitude
Ha, that tulsa weekend was crazy. I'm glad I could give some insight, cool to see you two's opinions on the racing! Jeff and I are doing a day one video soon- I did it on a chinese carbon build! So, stoked to see yours!
10:48 mark - SL8, Propel, and Attack owner here. Thanks (again) for the shout out! Now, can a brother get a NERO Suit? 🤣
Yes, at retail. 😂
A true Chicago dweller. Get that beg on boy. You got any cheeseburgers to trade?
retail? Patrick puts out amazing content why your lazy ass consumes it, but criticizes. Give him all the Nero skin suits he wants for free.
all sizes still in stock mate
Has 5 bikes, wants a free skin suit…
Regarding Dylan’s Unbound setup; wasn’t the whole point about his MTB tire setup that they’re faster rolling and more puncture resistant? Maybe I missed it, but it seems like Jessie didn’t catch that part of Dylan’s explainer video.
It's possible Jesse missed that part; puncture resistance was definitely one of the keys DJ was after, second only to rolling resistance (if memory serves).
You were watching and paying attention. Yes😊
Yeah, I think setup matters so much off-road because not only are you trying to maximize efficiency and speed but you have to balance reliability. Getting flats and mechanicals can be luck, but a lot of it is gear choice and skill too. You could run DH mtb tires and basically guarantee not getting a flat, or you could run light casing super fast tires and heavily risk a flat. Go more reliable, you better have the fitness. Go less reliable, you better have handling skill and luck. I think it's at least as impactful as on the road.
The magic of that Race King tire is it's somehow very fast and also pretty puncture resistant. Still lots of arguments over whether to run inserts. They hurt the effectiveness of sealant but are a lifesaver in the case of unfixable puncture.
This whole conversation got me curious to try the Race Kings for myself. Just ordered a pair. My gravel bike can supposedly clear 50s, so let’s give it a shot.
Jessie's explanation of having to swap out everything with a new bike is exactly why I went with Winspace frame and build it up exactly as I want it rather than having to get rid of have the spec and buy new wheels, cranks, stem, bars, wheels, saddle, etc.
YES! I hate it when people compare custom built bikes with a Chinese frame to a stock pre-built. Manufacturers have massive pricing power and will get parts way under MSRP.
Not even to account for the selling of parts on eBay or other secondary sites.
Same!
Jesse absolutely love your build👍👍 Great to see Joe's advice, and finally a light weight super bike build that is well worth the money.. Really want this build to ride as good as it looks
I found the Dylan Johnson video self-confirmatory that what he did to prep for this race actually worked... that crazy bike setup gave him the opportunity to remain in the front group.
It's not just about satisfaction for this years result for him... but also the progression - how it's changed in the 5-6 years he's been competing at Unbound... granted it's not the 9th place in 11,5hrs like in 2019 or something, but the discipline has grown so much more competitive since then. As he was saying multiple times in the video, in the stacked field even repeating another 17th place would be a very strong result. A top 10 and a lifetime podium is unreal!
I’m calling it: Jesse’s brakes are gonna rub and he’s gonna come back to rim brakes 👑
Hope so, I wrote a longer comment above but wasted an hour yesterday removing disc rubbing 😔 the calliper has like 0.01mm margin of error lol
Chris can fix them for him.
I have a Pinarello with Ultegra disc brakes and they heat up and rub/make noise. I’d swap my frame for a rim brake version.
I hope they rub when he needs to slow down
Giant Propel with Sram Rival here. Absolutely no rub. Discs are still straight. Very different to my experience with mtb disc brakes, where I wouldn't even bother to try and adjust, I would just let it rub
I knew Chris was a maintenance hubbard, but I didn’t realise it was so bad that he’d never checked a chain or changed brake pads 🥴😵💫🤣
I’m so excited for Jesse to start riding this new setup. I want his no-nonsense take on the groupset and frame. If it’s reliable and decent setup, makes me more amenable to using these components on my next build.
Us Coyle sycophant's are devout Chris, we wont leave over this. Maybe when he shaves his beard, grows a handlebar mustache and starts doing unbound.
😂😂😂😂
Absolutely love Jessie´s bike build direction. Looking forward to ride review.
PS: my tip for Chris and learning mechanic stuff, just read manuals for everything :). I know it boring, but everything is there :).
im shocked.... i had no idea Chris was a Bicycle Princess to this level... WOOW! RUclips, tools and off you go, i built 4 bikes now from scratch with zero knowledge except youtube and forums, from crap bikes with mechanical to my boardman and canyon CF SLX, and now the S-Works wiht Force D2 groupset - PS: Also i am the guy who was in one of your episodes talking about upgrading my boardman SLR 9.2... i pulled the trigger on a 2021 Snake Eyes S-Works SL7 which only has 1700miles on it, guy just never rode it and stripped it to sell, comes with the stem and handlebars for only £2050, basically a new frame.. building it towards end of the month! Cant wait!
Yep, Ive done so many jobs now just from watching instructional youtube videos
53:44 The wider tires are optimising for reducing flats (without compromising speed which seems unbelievable) and the war is against the slow move to increase frame tire clearance and tire choice. This played out in MTB long ago so for MTBers it is like watching a rerun. Gravel is so intriguing as it is where road and off road athletes and tech collide.
Dylan Johnson used 55 mm MTB tires at Unbound. Finished 10th!
This is the comment I was looking for. Part of optimizing in gravel IS avoiding mechanicals, as best as possible. And, at a given risk of a mechanical, you may as well be as fast as possible.
Connex make a re-usable 12 speed chain link. Ideal for waxing chains (off and on) and it requires no tools to connect and disconnect. Use a set pair of chains for ideal maintenance swaps.
I’ve watched since you began and took a break for a coupla months (the algo stopped feeding me your show but suddenly began again ( I watch mostly cycling shows Arthur, Cade, GC Perf, Lantern R, Chris Horner, Vegan Cyclist even GNC - missed yours because I learn the most in a tight package). I’m writing because I have to say you’ve stepped up production values yet another notch - looks great!
Thanks Charles. That's weird RUclips stopped sending you the show, great to have you back. Potentially subscribing might help.
Those aliexpress saddles are great. I've got one with the honeycomb, and it's fantastic. I ride it with running shorts and dont feel the pattern at all, so I wouldn't worry. They are very grippy if thats something you dont like
Mixed 5d also good,
I race gravel in the SE US, and based on DJ’s YT advice I went from 40mm last season to 47mm this season and I am definitely faster and fresher.
I love this show. I have one road bike friend I rarely see.
This is the chat I’d love to be involved in.
Chris, you should watch ‘Free to Cycle’ for your bicycle mechanic tips. He ain’t Mr Excitement but he gives excellent demonstrations.
You two blokes are a breath of fresh air…notwithstanding, getting stuff for free is not an arm’s length review/test…I.e dropping your own coin = a real test/review.
Bearing press. Make one cheaply.
Threaded rod, 2 hex nuts to screw on rod, various size washers.
Works just fine for little $$$!
They're under $20 now on aliexpress. No real reason to do that anymore.
I agree with Chris, interested to see it! Guessing not much faster, hopefully no major issues.
I'm guessing marginal gains
Chris, you can check chain length stretch with a ruler. No special tool needed.
Also, chain breaker tool is needed to cut chain length to size.
Went from 172.5mm to 165.0mm Crank Length after 20 years of 172.5 and didn’t really notice and performance degradation but certainly more Comfortable and no more knee pain…..Had many Bike Fits so my position is dialed in. Can’t wait for Jesse’s bike review……..👍🏻
How much did you adjust saddle height and setback
Saddle went up the difference between 172.5 - 165.0 so 7.5mm Saddle Up and went forward a few mm. Measure you saddle tip to your Stem Bolt before moving the seatpost then keep that number the same after you raise your saddle. Also my cadence is much easier to maintain at 90-95+ rpm than before. Enjoy.
Same here. No more knee and hip issues and increased power and cadence for same effort.
Chris has a weird emotional trigger about wearing cycling gear minutes after stopping cycling 😂
This is an incredibly practical conversation about bike maintenance and personal parts build for a new setup. Loving it!
Big fan for the maintenance series of videos. Would be cool.
Chain length is easy. Put it on the biggest ring on the front and biggest on the cassette skipping the rear derailleur and add 2 link. Has work every single time for year.
To make sure you use the absolute longest chain possible the better way is to have the chain on the smaller front chain ring and smallest at the back, make sure has no slack and proper tension , most people go the other way , from the largest cog but that is wrong. Cassettes sizes differ at the largest point but all the same at the smallest cog.
@@LivoniaLimo It makes no sense, unless I misunderstood. Chain length should be determined based on the largest cog/chainring precisely because it varies between cassettes with different ranges. It's the way Shimano and SRAM manuals advise how to determine the chain length.
@@82vitt you are not wrong but if you worry about the largest cog and dismiss the smallest you could have slack on the small/small combo.
@@LivoniaLimo I know, but you wouldn't keep the chain on the small chain ring and at the same time be on the smallest cog for riding. I keep the chain in that gear only when the bike is not ridden to save the rear mech spring though, so in fact, I deliberately choose my chain length to be slack in the small/smallest combo so that the spring is under minimal tension most of the time.
@@82vitt you are correct , should not cross chain but you could be on the small front and maybe 12 or 13 in the back , my point and the better method is to set up the chain for the shortest length you thing you will ever use and not the other way around , in other words put the chin on the small ring in front , whoever smallest cog you thing you gonna use that combo at the rear , size the chain long enough where the derailleur cage has a little tension and you done. Many do it the other way around and find themselves with a chain too long
I took the plunge into fully rebuilding my SL8 after getting fed up with the service at my LBS's. Slowly got all the tools together. Watched the @gcperformance video building his SL8 and brake bleed videos and honestly that was plenty. Take it slowly, don't rush. I'm as ham fisted as they come and my bike is riding better than ever. Good on you for wanting to do it yourself.
I received the CRW 6575 wheels about 2 weeks ago and have a few hundred miles on them. My set weighed 1440 grams, and they feel much like the DT Swiss they replaced. At 80kg putting 1350 watts of sprint into them I can't make the disc brakes rub. Also GP5k 32mm rubber front and rear feels like a dream. I'm not losing time on strava segments compared to old 25/28 setup, and dirt roads now feel like my gravel bike!
Last year, i bought and installed 5x ltwoo er9 groups. 1 died in a downhill with bad asphalt (vibrations). 2 died for no reason whatsoever, just riding. All 3 sound like the gearbox inside is broken. The 4th one has done almost 5k km, but has problems charging, so i've found myself charging the lithium batteries with a dedicated charger. The 5th one has seen very little use because my buddy crashed and getting a replacement front wheel has been an adventure. I really hope you get a newer batch where such kinks have been ironed out, because if not, you're going to hate yourself for choosing ltwoo :) When it does work, it works perfect though. It's fast, smooth, silent, brakes are great, you have level reach adjust, the app is awesome and you can switch from 9 to 13 speed in the app.
20% of the time, it works every time!
Hey guys, great show.
Sorry to hear about the loss of one of 'our own' however, never good news. We are a rare enough breed, take care everyone ❤
Whenever I buy a frame I always buy 2 extra RD hangers. Not that I buy frames that often, but that's the point; Get frame hangers while they're readily available and still likely to be reasonably priced. When I inevitably break the hanger down the line I have one I can put straight in (and it's comforting to have a spare whenever you travel) and another I can take to shops or send photos/measurements to find a replacement (since I always seem to pick frames that either aren't made any more or company has gone bust).
Having to swap parts to make it fit me as I wanted also put me off buying a new bike. I finally built a bike. It was way cheaper than buying a bike and having to sell the bits left over after the swaps. And it wasn't an Aliexpress/direct from China build. I did get the cranks/power meter from Panda Podium though.
I'm excited to see the build! I am sure it will be fast. Going from 2017 Canyon to 2022 Elves made me around 3 km/h faster at 200w. I'm surprised how little bike work Chris does, for someone who loves the equipment chat that much 😂
Timestamp 24:52
Shifting to the small ring can be bliss..and more power AND speed!! #deathto1x 56/42t is monstro. Here in South Florida “GC Perf Grant” territory, we like that. “Downshifting” my “transaxle” to the 42t is a godsend at times in this heavy, wet, hot, tropical wind.
Loving this, never usually agree with anything Jesse says but this build will be very similar to a build iveould chose. Building a bike is so much better than buying off the shelf and replacing half the parts
I've been on Campy 53/39 w/12-29 cassettes for a while. Getting my 56/42 installed now. I also went with wider cassette to 11-32 to make up for the bump from 39 to 42 for climbing. For every 3T change on the chain ring, its ~ a 1T change on the cassette when dealing with the 1T jumps on the cassette. However I made the change in order to maintain the same speeds, and lower RPM and heart rate...per Dr.'s rec.
Y’all are up there with Lanterne and NorCal as the best cycling RUclipsrs IMO
Thanks man! That is great company to keep.
lanterne rides rim brakes, so does Benji
Only concern is Jesse making a judgement about disc based on his Chinese components, but if he loves it, what a game changer.
Setting up the front derailleur is way easier and less work than changing a press fit BB in my opinion. Also the Park Tool videos are great and they have one for literally everything.
If you're careful, you can straighten the rear der hanger with an adjustable wrench. Over the years, I've found that I can hear when the derailleurs are off by sound better than by sight
I’ll try that!
@@ChrisMillerCycling I'll say again: be careful!
Really looking forward to Jessy’s build, especially in the group set side with the performance expectations he has
I’ve read some quotes from LTwoo staying that they are targeting casual rides and are not chasing the performance market and Ike that’s the cases it will show here
I respect what Jesse is doing with his new bike and I am genuinely interested in how things come out. At this point, if it were me and based on what I have seen online, the only piece that I could not comfortably pull the trigger on would be the groupset. Frame = probably, cranks = yes, bars = yes, wheels = yes, cassette = yes, rotors = yes.
Former professional mechanic here and I can’t imagine going to a shop for any normal job on a road bike. They are incredibly simply to work on and it’s only fear that stop people doing it. Just give it a try Chris and I’m sure you’ll be absolutely fine!
The only jobs I hate and would pay someone else to do are rebuilding suspension forks/shocks and servicing internal gear hubs. Too many specialist tools to make it economically viable too it myself.
Good luck replacing headset bearings on my Ridley X-night, where the cables/hoses go inside the handlebar, then inside the stem into a tiny space by the steerer tube then finally pass through both the bearings. I managed to put it all together not being a pro mechanic, but boy, was it labour and head scratching involved.
What Jessie mentioned about the components is exactly the point why i went with dogma because i could spec it with 170 where the main stream comes with a 172.5 handlebar made to size etc.
Timestamp 21:07 🚲
Yes! I can do it myself, too, Jesse 🤘🏼
I have the Chinese 3D printed Zeus saddle with carbon rails and I love it. I have now fitted it to all my bikes. And just $99 AUD
Only bike job i dont do myself are wheel hubs and freehub bearings, so many different tools and specifics depending on the brand of hub i would rather just take it to a shop, also as far as Chris' s grx gremlins i would put money on it being a pinched wire or a dodgy battery, ive had a wire pinch in the headset area on an integrated set up
Wheel truing, bb change, and one piece cockpit swaps/cutting steerers are probably the only things a normal person should go to a bike shop for. Everything else is more than doable. At least if we leave out super special jobs like facing brake mounts, bb's, fork and damper maintenance etc.
I'm okay with Jesse upgrading to discs, he's earned the rim-brake lifetime achievement award for holding out this long and beside he'll always have his rim-brake bike for late-night rides under the moonlight. And it'll be great to have Jesse be a premier disc-brake bike reviewer, woohoo. And cheers to both of your for finding beneficial upgrades at good value, the story of our best lives on bikes. And about Dylan, I think his struggle, as it were, is to not accept conventional gravel bikes for racing and instead discover seemingly wild alternatives which create a better bike for each event. And turns out Lachlan did that, too, with that new helmet and belly bladder at Unbound.
Good luck with the built, I agree building a bike from scratch with hand picked components is the way to go , very curious how Jesse likes the bike , for what it is and vs his older bikes .
Two questions for you Jesse:
A. Any reason to pick the Ltwo over the EDS group set ?
B. In one of your past shows you mentioned about how stiff were the Lun Hyper, and that you avoid using them for long rides. It seems that the CRW will be stiff too (maybe even more than the Hyper) , so why did you decide to use that kind of wheels again?
As always, great show🎉💪🏼. Looking forward for the next episode
Hi guys, great show as always. With reference to the Ryet 3d printed saddle they do eat bib shorts over a period of time. I swapped it out for the smoother style and it's a lot better, it's quite a bit firmer and doesn't have as much give, but it only weighs 113g!! Hope this helps
I went the frame buy option my last bike and it was 2k less than buy a full bike and swapping part. I will not buy a full bike again, this was such a better experience than expected. With Chris' maintenance school, check with a shop to see if they offer the Park Tool class. They offered that at my shop in the past, it is a great thing for new cyclist. Also with him riding SRAM, the derailleurs can be done blind and the micro adjust on the app is a piece of cake to clear up noisey drive train
Or just go to the Parktool RUclips channel, that’s how I learned the basics. Calvin and Truman are incredible teachers.
Surprised you didn’t mention the CRW CS wheelset having 16 spokes, the same as cadex and synchros, the new gen carbon spoke wheels are all lower spoke count to make use of carbon’s tensile strength. This provides a much better ride feel.
I'm excited to see Jesse riding his new disc brake bike. I'm particularly interested in hearing his thoughts on the CRW 65/65 wheelset. It would be great if he could also compare it to the Reserve 52/63, which appears to be its closest competitor in terms of aero profile. I'm curious to learn how the 300g weight difference will impact this comparison.
I have that same saddle and I have ridden them for like a year now and still really good and comfortable
Great video guys and enjoyed all the topics covered. Lamperti said in his interview he was back home until July and then he will go back to Europe for more racing but just enjoys going to Tulsa.
I personally feel like replacing press fit bottom brackets are much more involved/complex than setting a front derailleur. I've never dealt with one but the lack of threads seem more daunting to me. It could just be bias from RUclips hating on press fit and saying they always have issues. I was "forced" for learn how to set my front and rear derailleurs after the local bike shop by me would always get it horribly wrong. I found it really easy once you do it once or twice. I'm running 9 speed dura-ace and a carbon frame from the 90s though. So maybe the modern stuff has tighter tolerances? That also means my bottom bracket is threaded. Press fit, t47, etc weren''t invented yet haha
I really want to see Chris building a bike video. Looking forward to it!
For SRAM chain since it has bigger rollers you need a compatible chain checker. Something like parktool CC-4.
I personally use Force chain and they usually last like 1 year I guess (not sure).
So far I have never been able to spot stretchy chain with Silca wax. Usually outer plate bent or something wrong like swapping gearing make me change chain.
Have had the Ryvet saddle for a while .. awesome saddle for the price. Never had a problem with it being uncomfortable or too grippy
Brilliant vhat as always guts .... really looking forward to the bike build. I have the CRW 50/55 so will be very interested 👌
You and me both!
I'm loving this, did I miss the video where the bike gets tested somewhere? I've always been someone who thinks 50% of the fun of riding is building their next bike from scratch, with zero brand loyalty... I'd love to do a scaled back generic version of this!
36mm!!! geez thats gonna be pointy. frame looks good too, nice colourway choice. groupset isnt a big investment if its no good, just try another chinese one if needed.
I did the 175mm to 165mm change too, hardly noticeable in a negative way quite quickly and less hip pain (my motive). Played with seat height too, I'm pretty much up the full 10mm on the saddle (on my tcr isp rim brake weapon of mass destruction)
Love the thought you've put into this project, Jesse.
learning how to change your bar tape can open up opportunities for you, particularly if you want less or more comfort, or wish to reduce weight/drag.
I'm so keen to see Jesse's full build and hear his take on it. Could be cool to do a separate update/review video after he's been on it for a bit.
Great show!! As always. You should go for the Galfer rotors. They are so much better than Shimanos or SRAM. They don't bend and after heavy breaking and they are really light:)
@ChrisMillerCycling Buying a new chain every 3 months is crazy! If you're keeping it in good knick, you're just throwing away money.
Shimano chains last a long time too!
A chain checker will save you a ton of money
As a mechanic - modern headsets can get tricky with all the cables. Messing that up can have big consequences. Brakes can drive you nuts to get them perfect. Take on other things so brakes don’t frustrate you and cause you to give up. Just put brakes later on your list.
I’m nowhere near pro mechanic but totally agree.
Yeah, I have got a Ridley X-night for offroad riding and installing the brake hoses / Di2 cables in the handlebar, then through the inside of the stem and into the tiny space by the D-shaped steering tube was a nightmare.
Recommend the park tool cc4 chain checker. Works perfectly for new sram or shimano chains. Older checkers are not so accurate for sram chains.
Same reason i went with a Elves Falath Evo 2023 frameset, and build it up with parts that FIT me, not what a Brand thinks MUST be on a bike that size.
Disk brake rub is always a thing, and never completly gone.
Regarding the Saddle, i have the exact same one on my bike, over 3000km and still feels great. I don´t feel the honyecomb through my bibs, nor do my bibs show any sign of wear on them.
As a mechanic, i build all my bikes and service them. not hard to do at home, if you have the tools(and the space to do so.
Rim brake die-hard here. The only reason I would switch to discs is also tyre clearance (and maybe possibly a classified hub). Can't wait to see the new bike built!
Can fit 28-30mm on my Winspace T1550 rim
Finally moving from a bike with square shaped tubes like the TCR to an aero bike is going to be an eye opener. I like your choice of going with purely chinese components, very interesting. Not sure if I would be buying an 1800 frame from china, when I can get a scott foil rc, for example, for not that much more (you gotta wait for a good deal though). Maybe I'm just a sucker.
But I really respect Jessie for going his own way and showing us all what's out there - hopefully this will put some pressure on western brands
They're all made in China lol
Pretty sure Shimano is based in Japan. Pretty sure loads of carbon frames are still made in Taiwan. And for now, at least, the design and aero performance of western designed frames as the edge (the only exception to this may be Factor)
@@philipk4475the presumption was frames.... Taiwan or China same thing. If a few watts in a wind tunnel is worth the 2x - 3x price by all means splash the cash. Personally I don't believe a damn thing these manufacturers say and everyone shills for them lol just built a bike for 5k 5.8kg and is as good if not better than anything 15-20k
Yessss that time keeps creeping longer and longer
I'll be able to listen to you guys for a whole ride this time next year lmao
The only time I felt a major downside with 165 cranks is when you are really struggling up a steep climb and have run out of gears. Other times you just spin faster in a lower gear. It's not a problem.
Got the Ryet saddle on my Wattbike. Nonsense about wearing the bibs out or feeling it through the chamois. Decent saddle. Thinking about putting it on my road bike.
I’m super slow, but I feel ridiculously proud of myself for being able to build a bike up myself!
Except bearings
Role of the bike shop? Two days out from the Tour of Flanders Gran Fondo. Purchase a fifty dollar shimano brake bleed kit. Screw the syringe into the bleed assembly giving it an extra tweek to make sure it won't leak. Snap the thread on the syringe. Read the instructions - DO NOT APPLY EXCESSIVE FORCE. Wheel the bike 500 metres to the local bike shop. Pick it up the same day with optimised brakes.
@nerocoaching Jesse what size frame did you pick for your new Tavello given you currently ride a size L. And what saddle height are you riding? I just had a look at the chart and a 51(L) and 54(XL) could fit.
I can vouch for that Ryet saddle, the light version (full carbon rail). 107g, cheap, comfy and no problem on one year sor far.
Where did you find the new « blue » LTWOO ERX?!!
65 75 wheels, are they too deep? though sus light plus narrow bars, what would handling be like?
Jesse is excited about bikes again! Good chat this week.
Good luck on the build Jesse. Fun times.
Great idea, you can make a nice, high-end road bike using both mainstream and Chinese parts. Trifox has the x16 and x18 Speedsters which are very affordable integrated disc framesets, but can become platforms for a high-end build if you get the right components. I have a respectably light x16 Speedster with 12 speed DI2 Ultegra groupset, Dura Ace brakes and chainrings. I don't think the wheel source Trifox uses is very good, and the x16 handlebars are open mold design and generic; the x18 handlebars look a bit generic also. Essentially, the brand is a good 2nd Wave? frame manufacturer that uses some cheaper components to flesh out the framesets. I'll do a full review for my build soon, it came in under $4500. I've changed out the Trifox seat and will be changing the handlebars soon for different, 3rd Wave Chinese parts. Making a complete bike for the price of a mainstream branded frameset is getting pretty attractive for the average rider.
A snapped mech hanger is a good thing, it's a sacrificial part to save the frame.
Seems like an exciting build, the frame might be the 1st to be switched out. I might suggest buying high quality brake pads and rotors. They can make such a big difference.
Love the honestly with maintenance!!! Better late than never!
Personally I’d advise Jesse not to go expensive on the cranks cos that’s a part you might wanna change later. 1cm shorter crank will completely change your bike setup.
Interesting. I have one on order. It is almost mm exact my old BMC Roadmachine seat tube, reach, stack.
Looks a nice bike Jesse. For the type of riding you do I’m sure you will notice a decent bump in speed compared to the TCR. I think you will miss the simplicity of the rim brake bike those disc brake bikes don’t stay quiet for long and it won’t feel as sprightly to ride, but those wheels with the carbon spokes will make a big difference to the disc brake ride feel! They will be super quick once rolling. That XR4 you had with the countervail, direct mount brakes, low bottom bracket and 30mm tyres would have been absolutely perfect for you had you of kept it. Hopefully it all goes smoothly and more people start going for the Chinese branded bikes rather than paying over the odds for your mainstream bikes.
You're gonna be shocked at how good your new bike is gonna feel! Those wheels are so nice....I have a pair CRW 65/75. They recommend 28 mm tires for the wheels if you want maximum areo benefits. I do 28 front 30 rear.
I bought a Ryet saddle but the overall width is too wide for me. Ended up with saddle sores!!!! Have a more narrow nose saddle, hope it will stop the sores!!!
Building the bike up yourself is half of the fun of getting a new bike
165mm to 150mm cranks. only a positive move. comfort at TDC is the key. power is unaffected, because its about ATP, not levergae.
Speaking of Ali Express Trace Velo spec, I rate the YBN chains.
Also trying the ZTTO SZ944 pads.