While the 808-style output buffer does result in a slightly "warmer" tone, the problem Maxon/Ibanez faced was that those component values were also applied to the *bypass* sound. If a TS-type circuit used a mechanical true bypass switch, no problem, since the bypass signal would never pass through that buffer. But an electronically-switched pedal would oblige the "clean" signal to get loaded down by those buffer resistor values. My unsubstantiated guess is that Ibanez made the change from the 808 to the 9 values in order to provide a bypass tone that was more agreeable to consumers. I recently modded a TS-9 build to use some of the toneshaping of the Nobels ODR-1. A stock TS-9/808 uses a "ground leg" of 4k7 and 47nf on the gain stage to produce a fixed 6db/oct rolloff, beginning around 720hz. My sense is that this was implemented to provide *roughly* equivalent clipping across the entire fingerboard (since bass notes have greater amplitude, and will clip harder, if not attenuated). Unfortunately, it results in too thin a sound for some folks. The Nobels ODR-1 uses a different approach, whereby NO rolloff is applied to the lower frequencies but MORE gain is applied to the mids and highs. The result, with no other changes to the basic TS circuit, is a much fuller sound, with none of the thinness. Look for my RUclips video, titled "Tube Screamer w/ODR-1 mod", where I demo the sonic difference, and give the component values to use (recalculated from the original Nobels values, to yield the same outcome in a TS-9). Probably the most direct comparison is shown at the 1:40 mark, where the toggle selects between stock and ODR-1 values. The build shown in the video also includes a toggle for selecting between 4 diodes (a la Timmy). no diodes, and 2 diodes; the latter being easily identified by the big drop in volume. But if you're handy with a soldering iron, it's a good mod.
Interesting, your screamer sounded somewhat unstable. And I think I prefer the bass & treble strings to clip at different volumes, in my opinion that equals dynamics. It can sound synthetic digital when everything is compressed & clipping at the same level.
@@ArtoriusGuitarNerd Thanks. here was an issue with the no-diodes setting (middle position of the rightmost toggle) that has since been fixed. That's the "unstable" you heard. A frequent mod to TS-type pedals is to increase the value of the ground-leg capacitor from 47nf to 100 or even 220nf. This DOES increase bass, but also disrupts the "graded clipping" the TS was designed to achieve. I find this simple ODR-1 mod provides a nice compromise between getting the bass back, without making it too bass-heavy a sound.
@@patrickmcmanus5373 a stock screamer without diodes will be closer to a clean boost but you’ll still be able to get some grit out of it. This pedal is modified to have more gain by the time the diode mods are done.
@@gstube1 .047uf increases the overall bass. .22uf lowers the bass when you turn up the gain so it doesn’t get muddy. 2.2k increases the gain at max. 39k lowers the gain at minimum. The 10k & 100ohm control the bias of the output buffer. It doesn’t affect the volume , but it does change the dynamics and attack. The 808 is a softer spongy sound & feel, the ts9 has more pop to it with a slightly compressed sound compared to the 808 but this is very subtle
For the Hot Rod mod, is there an Amazon list I could get? Pretty please lol and what kinda solder iron are you using? I have one but it does not get hot enough I think, takes forever to melt the solder on the pedal (i did the anti clipping mod from your video) amazing work btw! Super helpful and great instructions
I rarely shop on Amazon for guitar parts unless I only need like one thing. I use these websites: guitarpedalparts.com stompboxparts.com pedalpartsplus.com taydaelectronics.com Oh and I use a 40watt soldering iron. In my personal opinion you’ll mess components up by using a pen that’s not hot enough because you have to keep the heat on them for to long. 30-40watts should do well with circuit boards and lugs. Should only take 1-2 seconds to solder circuits, maybe 3-4 seconds for lugs and jacks.
Great video! I got my hands on an 808 I plan to use for studio work recently and so far have replaced the LED, done the Hot Rod mod, and trying something with the clipping diodes. I'm trying to set up a switch to go between symmetrical and asymmetrical, but so far the switch doesn't change anything. Any advice? Also, the Hot Rod mod sounds amazing :)
Sure send me an email and I’ll send you some diagrams and and walk you through it. ruckusaudio@yahoo.com I want to make a video soon about wiring up a clipping switch.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
While the 808-style output buffer does result in a slightly "warmer" tone, the problem Maxon/Ibanez faced was that those component values were also applied to the *bypass* sound. If a TS-type circuit used a mechanical true bypass switch, no problem, since the bypass signal would never pass through that buffer. But an electronically-switched pedal would oblige the "clean" signal to get loaded down by those buffer resistor values. My unsubstantiated guess is that Ibanez made the change from the 808 to the 9 values in order to provide a bypass tone that was more agreeable to consumers.
I recently modded a TS-9 build to use some of the toneshaping of the Nobels ODR-1. A stock TS-9/808 uses a "ground leg" of 4k7 and 47nf on the gain stage to produce a fixed 6db/oct rolloff, beginning around 720hz. My sense is that this was implemented to provide *roughly* equivalent clipping across the entire fingerboard (since bass notes have greater amplitude, and will clip harder, if not attenuated). Unfortunately, it results in too thin a sound for some folks. The Nobels ODR-1 uses a different approach, whereby NO rolloff is applied to the lower frequencies but MORE gain is applied to the mids and highs. The result, with no other changes to the basic TS circuit, is a much fuller sound, with none of the thinness.
Look for my RUclips video, titled "Tube Screamer w/ODR-1 mod", where I demo the sonic difference, and give the component values to use (recalculated from the original Nobels values, to yield the same outcome in a TS-9). Probably the most direct comparison is shown at the 1:40 mark, where the toggle selects between stock and ODR-1 values. The build shown in the video also includes a toggle for selecting between 4 diodes (a la Timmy). no diodes, and 2 diodes; the latter being easily identified by the big drop in volume. But if you're handy with a soldering iron, it's a good mod.
Interesting, your screamer sounded somewhat unstable. And I think I prefer the bass & treble strings to clip at different volumes, in my opinion that equals dynamics. It can sound synthetic digital when everything is compressed & clipping at the same level.
@@ArtoriusGuitarNerd Thanks. here was an issue with the no-diodes setting (middle position of the rightmost toggle) that has since been fixed. That's the "unstable" you heard.
A frequent mod to TS-type pedals is to increase the value of the ground-leg capacitor from 47nf to 100 or even 220nf. This DOES increase bass, but also disrupts the "graded clipping" the TS was designed to achieve. I find this simple ODR-1 mod provides a nice compromise between getting the bass back, without making it too bass-heavy a sound.
Awesome!, great channel, I just subscribed, thanks!
Thanks for the content. Great video. Easy to follow.
The pedal without clipping diodes was a shock. I thought it would be a clean Boost 😮
@@patrickmcmanus5373 a stock screamer without diodes will be closer to a clean boost but you’ll still be able to get some grit out of it. This pedal is modified to have more gain by the time the diode mods are done.
Interested to know what each component does as you are explaining which ones to change.
@@gstube1
.047uf increases the overall bass.
.22uf lowers the bass when you turn up the gain so it doesn’t get muddy.
2.2k increases the gain at max.
39k lowers the gain at minimum.
The 10k & 100ohm control the bias of the output buffer. It doesn’t affect the volume , but it does change the dynamics and attack. The 808 is a softer spongy sound & feel, the ts9 has more pop to it with a slightly compressed sound compared to the 808 but this is very subtle
For the Hot Rod mod, is there an Amazon list I could get? Pretty please lol and what kinda solder iron are you using? I have one but it does not get hot enough I think, takes forever to melt the solder on the pedal (i did the anti clipping mod from your video) amazing work btw! Super helpful and great instructions
I rarely shop on Amazon for guitar parts unless I only need like one thing.
I use these websites:
guitarpedalparts.com
stompboxparts.com
pedalpartsplus.com
taydaelectronics.com
Oh and I use a 40watt soldering iron. In my personal opinion you’ll mess components up by using a pen that’s not hot enough because you have to keep the heat on them for to long. 30-40watts should do well with circuit boards and lugs. Should only take 1-2 seconds to solder circuits, maybe 3-4 seconds for lugs and jacks.
Great video! I got my hands on an 808 I plan to use for studio work recently and so far have replaced the LED, done the Hot Rod mod, and trying something with the clipping diodes.
I'm trying to set up a switch to go between symmetrical and asymmetrical, but so far the switch doesn't change anything.
Any advice?
Also, the Hot Rod mod sounds amazing :)
Sure send me an email and I’ll send you some diagrams and and walk you through it. ruckusaudio@yahoo.com
I want to make a video soon about wiring up a clipping switch.