Focus MK2 Front Brake discs and pads replacement
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- Опубликовано: 4 апр 2021
- Recently, the brakes of my car started to grind every time I pressed the brakes. Since I have been planning to replace the front discs and pads for a while, this was a good opportunity to do the job.
This job might also apply to the Volvo S40 MK2, V50 and C30
#ford #fordfocus #fordfocus2 #brakes #brakeservice
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THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO !
Saved me lots of money
Thank you very much
to clean the sliding pins, 7mm allen key in electric drill, and some scotchbrite, twiss it around for a few seconds comes up like new,, use silcon grease on any rubber contact surface, and a turkey baster to rermove break fluid before it flows over the reservoir lip.
I use Textar’s Ceratec grease which is specific for brake use but couldn’t find the tub so I had to borrow copper grease from a neighbour.
You should always do your guide pins with silicone paste no copper grease because copper grease destroys rubber over time
I usually use the Textar paste, but due to the urgency of doing the brakes and the fact that most consumables were in another garage, I had to borrow copper grease from a neighbour.
Thanks Mister?
You’re welcome
Personally I am no great fan of these ATE calipers primarily due to the slider pins being open to the elements (check out the timestamp at 6 minuets) slider pins would never get that bad if totally enclosed. So in my experience these type of calipers need to be completely serviced at least once a year. One other small point is if you crack the bleeder valve when you are pushing the piston back it will make it far easier and you do not run the risk of the reservoir overflowing also if the valve is used in a timely manner it will not seize up. It is also a good thing to change the fluid on a regular basis.
Yes, they are a pain and can seize quite easily too. Never found a single one that wasn’t caked in.
Regarding the bleed nipple method, I did that once, but ended up making a mess so I started to do it this way instead, but I do check the level beforehand.
I change the fluids every time I get a new car as a preventive maintenance but I never keep them for more than 2-3 years anyway.
You do not need to bleed the brakes when changing pads and discs
That is correct, but because I only had this car for a few months and it had no service history I did it just to make sure it was all ok. Better safe than sorry.
I just did this on my focus but my pads rub on the disc when I spin the wheel. It shouldn’t do this should it?
It can happen because the pads you are putting in are much thicker. Pump the brake pedal a few times when you start the engine and they should retreat slightly.
@@GentilsGarage ah sorry I mean these pads are around 3 year old but still lots of life on and I’ve only just noticed they do this so have been trying to fix it. What could be causing this?
Remove everything and wire brush the calliper and carrier thoroughly, like in the video. Same for the sliding pins.
Then put some copper grease or Textar’s Ceratec on the same places as I show in the video. Remove the brake fluid reservoir Capp, Push the calliper piston back, with a calliper rewind tool or very large pliers, and then put the reservoir cap back on.
This should help. It did help me in other cars before.
@R Lawson thanks, is it as simple as just undoing one nipple at a time and pumping the brakepedal til new fluid flows through?
Thats it
I think the grinding noise is when ABS/ESP kicks in. Do you still get it after changing pads and discs?
No, it’s all gone. The old brakes were the cause.
no there is no brake pad left on that pad that the backing plate time stamp 14:06
I believe the material did split from the backing plate. Exactly the same happened to me many years ago with another car where I heard a noise of something falling from the front of the car when I did brake hard.
you forgot to tell people that you need to press the brake pedal afterward and put back the cap on the brake master system. If you are going to show the world on how to do things on your car please make sure you give the correct information
9:00 I did say to close the oil reservoir again after I compressed the calliper piston.
Then, after I bled the brakes, I didn’t say as it’s common sense to put the cap back in after I removed the bleeding system from the reservoir.
Also this is a Gunson pressurised system and it does not require the brake pedal to be pumped afterwards. If the bleeding wasn’t pressurised, then the pumping of the pedal would be required.
Mark maybe you should make a video you seem to know so much on the subject 🤔