The aftermarket Killer Chiller has been around for a while, with 03/04 Mustang Cobra specific kits. It can get the IAT below ambient. One issue people have seen is condensation on the pipes dripping water onto the track and then having issues with the officials when staging.
I love that he gave the awkward gut an opportunity to shine and share his knowledge. Tells you so much. Maybe in the future he will be better but you can tell he has so much to share. Great video very informative and fucking awesome motivation.
Personally, I like the unscripted parts of the videos. Less robotic. Tons of good info, and I know you know and understand what you are sharing with us. Let your personality do most of the work. Keep up the good work!
F/I interchiller kit now comes with all the lines pre crimped and fitted. suction line needs to be cut in 1 place and new oiekler clamps are provided as well as a fitting tool for proper placement.
OJ is da man! Nice detail on the "fun stuff" 😂 Alex, Home Depot "Super Lube" 14oz tub of silicone oring grease is like Merc sunroof grease. Never dries, thick, and safe for any kind of rubber, plastic, etc. Also same as dielectric grease.
That's really more for emissions than power. Same reason most manufacturers went to a returnless style fuel system - heated fuel being returned to the tank isn't great for evaporative emissions. If you wanted to do it for power it would make more sense to cool the fuel on its way to the engine, but that's also not much of a thing bc the phase change from liquid to gas/vapor itself has WAY more of a cooling effect than trying to cool the fuel down a few degrees while it's still in liquid form (especially on a fuel injected engine).
@@nowayjose596 alternative to that, which would possibly make it less pointless is keep the fuel slightly cooled in the tank. Doesn't require a refrigeration system to do so either...
In typical FMU fashion, they used a pretty extreme example to demonstrate and install and that's why we subscribe. The W222 is a large vehicle but it's also already packed with components, plus any engine bay with an M275/M279 is going to be devoid of open space, even an S-class. Bravo.
Wow, that ac cooler is a lot of money for moderate horsepower gains. Injecting e85 after the turbos will cool the intake temps for way less. But if you have this type of money this is a sexy install for sure.
I notice you said killer chiller lol. Man those guys went out of business after I paid them lol. Fortunately 3 months later I got a random package in the mail from them but it was only the main chiller unit but no lines are anything else…was going to go in my 03 cobra…supposed to be a kit. Now I’m not sure what to do with it…custom fit lines or it’s a paperweight. Hopefully y’all didn’t get scammed by them
Brown and Miller and XRP make crimp fittings and have hose that are designed for ac systems. They are expensive, but you can get the lines and fittings, cut them to length and have the fittings crimped by a qualified shop that has their crimper. So that could be a viable option for people or shops who don’t want to mess with troublesome lines.
OR ... and I know a lot of people will go mental about it - use a LPG liquid phase injection. There were few rally cars done with it, and yes the tank will give you a weight penalty, however ability to cool the charge sub ambient with just liquid gas can give you crazy gains ! and LPG is 105 octane and tad cheaper than nitro.
@@Skunkhunt_42 If you're interested about the details, there is this company "Mountue". They're "guns for hire" and do a lot of dev work for ford. They also did a lot of rally cars and their boys from the dyno were quite proud of their LPG thing. I was rather gob smacked, since for me LPG usually means power loss due to lower caloric value, but they shown me that with all my experience I'm still a moron :D (side note, that LPG system was so good that they were slaying everybody and after one season they got banned from using LPG under the "it's an alternative fuel" excuse) (side note 2: one of the guys said that their problem on the rally car was actually keeping the intake valves from freezing and hence they had an active system that was blocking the first intercooler to keep the charge air hotter so the pre valve intake won't drop below freezing)
@tommybronze3451 dope! Thanks for the leads there, down the rabbithole I go. As a chemE I could imagine one could get creative with the exact composition of the LPG for such optimization.
@@Skunkhunt_42 yeah, you could but tell any team manager that tank of fuel will cost them £30 vs few grand and they will bless you! (yes I remember my GT1 days from over a decade ago where aston martin used to charge us arm and leg for their “blessed” fuel for dbr9) - so making your own mix costing pretty peny is feasible but people would start questioning what benefits you’ll get. And with super high octane of LPG, one would maybe play around with intake oil / combustion stabiliser injection - WHEN race rules allow for that. Making your own LPG seems like a fools errand - thou here a tiny caveat, there are two mixes: winter and summer being sold, summer one has lower octane and higher caloric value while winter one has lower evaporation point, lower caloric value and higher octane numer - so it’s of the shelf choice that one can make for better performance …
@tommybronze3451 super cool thanks for the details. I'm not a racer but do love my 850 turbos and I work with n-butane, iso-butanr and propane daily for making hash oil. We design and build big processing plants so trying to keep it from igniting is our goal 😆 End of the day tho, it's a refrigerant, and this property we use to operate our systems. So I deal alot with carefully managing that effect, both of the high side for heat and low side for cooling. For instance, right now, working on a liquid LPG injection into the hot vapor space to desuperheat it before the primary condenser to get more performance out of a machine being pushed for its available capacity. We use blowers like yall car guys do too, similarly but again - not to ignight it😆 I wish I was a beer mechanic cause alota the best guys I work with are. I do what I do but I'm not as good when it comes to hot rodding my car All in all, ima try and learn more about this cause I'll probably learn some things that help on the side of things I do with it. 🫡
Well, few things to be said: Great explanation how system works 👍 On the workmanship, you can do better. Routing of lines, cutting up the crash bar, etc. The Alibaba tank in the boot is not Ideal. Wiring is also very cheap, especially looking at those switches....dude get some nice black metal ones, they ain't that expensive... We personally also install interchillers, also from FI, and we replace front crash bars with custom reinforced aluminium tanks, that also often integrate the heat exchanger units ... Much neater solutions. Or on a C8 wette, we made custom tank that lived in the center tunnel. Custom tanks are overall neater, not THAT expensive and usually provide a lot of volume to the system. And we use nice Deutsch connectors on everything and proper quality switches. Also shutting the fan in the interior, is nothing to be called full race mode🙈 Just some advice, on things to improve, no hate✌️
Custom tanks built as part the crash bar are not expensive?! I appreciate the feedback back but at the end of the day the customers budget ultimately dictates the work put out. Easy to justify on personal rides or mega buck show builds, but a customer paying a fabricator by the hour for a tank that does the same job as the one they opted for to be mounted in the trunk… not everyone is going to pay that additional 2k plus for a fancy solution. Sure we offered but it’s not something that mattered to this particular customer.
Haha great video mate ! I couldn’t begin to imagine how stressful that install would be on a high end car or luxury car hahaha But it’s definitely less intense when it’s cut and shut into a street drift missile 🤪
Since I run an Audi 3.0T with triple heat exhangers and I have upgraded the front heat exchanger I can get a pretty good hit most of the time unless the ambienrt air is really hot and humid. The question I always had with the system is what happens when it's really cold outside? I thought AC didn't work, either told by the car or for some other reason when it is cold. I think I get my best hits after 20 minute highway run in the winter. By then the front HX is full of very cold liquid and the engine oil, transmission oil an dcoolant are warm. I live in Canada and it can be sub zero outside with no snow on the ground. Most of us go record timeslip hunting in May or October. You get the heat of the day in the ground.and then the air temps drop in the afternoon. Most people with good Dragy hits have the ability to pick the temps when they run the car. They wait until it's really cold and go for just enough of a drive to warm the engine but have the HX system with near frigid coolant in it and go to "Mexico" behind their house.
The refrigerant is a seal system under pressure so its constant temp is controlled via the regulation of the compressor cycling. It won’t get colder, however the ambient temps can be colder and at a certain point might actually cool the cooler, because its temperature is regulated. So the chiller might be warming the ambient air, although the very act of being compressed through the supercharger and the operating engine temp would warm the air charge in operation… Basically you can only get an engine at it specified OPERATING temp’s air so cold…regardless of ambient conditions.
Not up on current day Mopars but good to know Chrysler decided to try this. I remember reading about the 3rd Gen Ford Lightning (not the EV) that was tickling rumors of doing this with a Coyote, if not, a 5.4 Terminator like variant at the time (04-05) that never came to fruition. Edit* lol, I wrote my comments ~3 seconds in to watching the vid, then the Lightning gets brought up, and you even used the word fruition... Mind you I wrote what I said before watching this through at all.
You guys are onto something here. sub'ed. Exhaust stuff was cool but this is so much more interesting imo. also, footage quality and color grading is really pro!
This ac system looks difficult to get it 100% and thanks for letting people know before they spend money they didn't expect. would love to see how it works on a old 2jz or something
I assume youll need a mix of hard and soft lines. Being that the engine does flex/move quite a bit, having everything hardlined would break causing leaks and more mess.
Awesome work by your installers!! But serious question here......How much total weight was added to this car(fluids and all) to try and make more power over the stock intercooler system? Not even talking about the complexity of the system(install costs) and troubleshooting problems!! No wonder you don't see more of them done.
You forgot to mention that new cars use r-1234yz refrigerant as opposed to old skool r-134a (or r-12 for super old skool). R-1234yz is a semi-flammable refrigerant. It's imperative that the system gets properly evacuated using a micron gauge. I built a homemade ac for my 88 jeep yj a few months ago. Got tired of the old gas burner and decided to install a twacked out vw 1.9 tdi in it. I stumbled upon this video because I was planning on building a homemade chiller system for an A2W intercooler system. I plan on using a bar/plate chiller, two liquid solenoid valves, and two 1.5 ton TXV valves.
My performance workshop in Australia, dealing with LS based engines ... yeah they really don't rate Kirk and his Interchiller system. They've had multiple issues with AC pump failure, in-cabin air temp ... and seeing as the intercooler "brick" is inside the blower... had the brick fail and leak water into the engine. Most of these water to air intercooler systems aren't designed to be ran at such low temps which can cause pre-mature failure of certain parts. Really not worth the hassle unless its a dedicated drag car.
I have a question,, but first is the pen light safe did it survive the fall to the bottom of the barrel 😮. But more so is the Fluid in the tank just water or could you do better with a different coolant, which I'm sure you could, but would it help ? I'm sure that Professor OJ has done the math and is working on a formula as we speak. Thank you Professor as always another great video and you always keep us thinking 🤔. What's next.
OJ i have a better idea for cooling the intercooler and way cheaper put nozzles in front of the intercooler spray co2 from a soda stream bottle turn the bottle upside down so it sprays co2 liquid put a boost solinoid in the line and control it with the ecu when the car gets into boost it sprays liquid co2which instantaniously turns to gas onto the intercooler liquid co2 is way colder than using the ac and liquid co2 can get as low as -56.5 degrees c or -68.8f in it's liquid form under pressure great idea for drag racing drifting or spirited driving cheers from down under
And just like that OJ had dropped knowledge and swam deep to the bottom of the barrel only to come out again when the world needed him next, like Godzilla.
Thanks for the information. I was planning to install an interchiller style system into my 2006 Saleen S331. One problem no one talks about or seems to have solved, is the internal condensation that occurs after shut down inside the manifold. Short of limiting the overall chiller target temp of the water to 5-7 degs, subject to humidity and therefore above condensation point. I can't see how to keep water out of the motor on shutdown? I have heard of local examples of this happening due our 80-90% humidity local weather, under drag racing conditions of stop/start. One competitor damaged his motor because of it. OJ have encountered this previously? Personally I love the idea and can see the advantages.
I’ll be real honest, without refrigerant pumping through the system to keep the intercooler chilled, once shut off… ambient engine temp should get intake up over 100 which will rapidly help vaporize any left overwater before a restart… I mean most configurations with intake air pressurized and under vacuum back and forth running, I cant see any significant amount of water collecting to be an issue when turned off, but it really depends on your specific setup.
@FluidMotorUnion great reply. If I do continue with my plan to install the system. I was going to wire in a turbo timer type shutdown delay that turns off the chiller system, before idling the motor long enough evaporate off any condensation. Also thanks for your recent exhaust videos about tuning the sound. I am looking forward to experimenting with expansion cones to achieve a better overall sound and less drone.
I have the forced induction inner chiller installed on my 21 Roush 2650 setup. I’ve never had an issue with condensation living in Houston. Few tips during the winter time turn off the AC let the car idle for a few minutes to melt any ice that might have built up on the inner cooler and as previously stated the heat will evaporate any water. Ice tanks are not recommended for this setup as it gives time for the fluid to warm up running under the car with the heat from exhaust best options use a D-gas bottle with a reservoir tank. Another thing in the video I didn’t see was wrapping all the metal fittings into the chiller with corking tape, bonus on using braided lines as it definitely helps, I used braided lines and then wrapped them with insulation to achieve the highest thermal efficiency. My reservoir tank is also covered with 2 layers of foam insulation. These kits seemed intimidating to install but once you study how to install it’s actually very easy and forced inductions send instructions for every situation. My IAT2 temps in 106 degree houston weather last weeks was 58 degrees with multiple back to back pulls and I have just over 3 gallons of fluid. I highly recommend this system I had a lot of doubt from hearing horrific stories about the killer chiller system. Spend the extra money go with forced induction chiller.
I wish you would address the relatively reasonably priced electric standalone AC compressors. Adding a standalone intercooler compressor may not only bring more consistency (safety) to the intercooler system. I would think you would also provide ease of maintenance. step number one does the cabin AC system work? I have true dual front and rear heat and AC in My 2000 Ford Excursion. I'm working up a plan to ditch my 1 belt driven compressor for 2 electric units. Maybe from a Prius? Still researching as of this moment. In my case the advantage is even if I only have half an air conditioning system working that's better than no air conditioning system. The removal of parasitic drag from the engine is not a bad bonus.
Electric EV A/C compressor kit is the way to go. Less robbing of HP from engine, but you'll need a higher AMP Alt to match plus proper wiring. So added work to DIY but I think we'll worth the effort.
i haven't seen much feedback about the feasibility of these systems but would be interested to experiment. Are there any aftermarket manufactures or kits that you have heard good things about other than the concept being used in electric vehicles?
@@FluidMotorUnion There are a lot of complete kits available online, some cheap and some more expensive. As for testing purposes, maybe start with a cheaper variant for R&D. Then go from there. My son and I are designing an intake for his 2000 Impreza to except a Whipple 1.6l 100AX Supercharger. The intake will incorporate a liquid to air interchiller system. We are gonna be using an electric A/C system for interchiller and for the cabin. He plans on racing AutoX. Hopefully this is allowed but here is a link to an informative vid on someone incorporating an Electric A/C but just for the cabin. ruclips.net/video/mRo05wph2F0/видео.htmlsi=N-4xAMtIJ26l9b7G
@@FluidMotorUnion also, because the interchiller does not rely on air to pass thru it, you can place it anywhere you would like in the car. As well, with electric a/c, you can do the same. You can move all components to the rear of car to weight balance the car better for better handling performance.
I think my first reply was auto removed because I linked another vid to it. Let me know if you see 2 reply other than this one. If not I will contact thru an email with more info on electric a/c systems. I've done a lot of research on them.
Think of it more like a battery… storing energy for use, but not being able to replenish quickly if the demand was constant… It can provide HP above its parasitic loss only because the cooling capacity was built up during periods when the demand wasn’t high. If you all out at max hp for extended periods, you would eventually run the cooling capacity down past the point where the system could keep up. So this is a “burst” use system in practical application.
I have a question non related to the video but to a video in the past would you guys do a exhaust system for a fortwo smart I'm in the chicago area and would like to take it
Mmmmeh. Install water meth kit, fill with northern windshield washer fluid, and call it a day. We've been doing it in puerto Rico for y years, and it works like a charm. Even just straight water gets it done. I think it's the only reason they sell freeze resistant windshield washer fluid in a place that doesn't reach the 60s in the winter 😆
Honestly that’s the point. Not trying to burn any bridges with suppliers, so best we can do is lay all the facts out for the viewer to make that decision.
Not overlooking the awesomeness of your shop, over all 99.9% legit no one is perfect. Please allow me a chance to bring into light modifying the crash bumper in the context of crash management in auto vehicles. This is probably a customer decision and they need insight here, I don't doubt they approved it. Consider I was a "crash bumper" prototype and test engineer for 2 years. I don't know everything, just produced prototype parts for vehicle builds). The design engineers explained they estimate impact energy they need to absorb in a crash. Then the assembled crash beam and crash boxes (small "boxes" that connect body to crash beam), they are fixtured in a gigantic test press and crushed, deriving the energy absorption from force displacement. Fun fact the bends, folds, slots in a crash box are there to control how it deforms, ideally collapses like bellows.
None during a run since factory AC compressors cycle off during WOT typically. These systems don’t change that. Think of the cooling potential as a battery that is built during idle and cruise and when intake temps are higher during max output it dips into the reserve. Yes it will eventually out pace the capacity, but not for your quarter mile run…
I dont want the chiller for extra power. I want it so I can run pump gas with over 1khp in my daily & not get det & spark knock if caught in traffic imo.
Get a hydraulic hand crimper and just use beadlock fittings. If you are getting failed crimps, youre doing it wrong or bought a crappy crimper with shitty crimping dies.
I'm sure you try to read or respond to every comment.. which seems impossible.. Regardless, I have interest in your exhaust layout on an 3.0t s5. Also other questions about the ac/intercooler
"Read" is still a possibility at this stage in our growth, but responding is a pick and choose for sure! The main issue with the 3.0T B8.5 is the market isn't really asking for a premium exhaust option, as pricing seems to be "value" driven, which is why there aren't many great sounding options. We've done the motor with success in the distant past and even were selling our branded test pipes in a 3.5 in size in 2013!- but no one wanted to pay more than the cheapest offerings, so not wanting to take part in a race to the bottom, we left that market. We'd be willing to explore options further if you emailed us directly, but understand the pricing would not be inline with the current offerings of $2K...
Hello. I recently had fi unit installed in my 05 E55 to fi spec, new accumulator, year old compressor, no leaks. I am having issue with ac staying cold when at idle, fan works properly, freon was vacuumed and recharged. I would bring car to you guys but you are 11 hrs away. Any ideas. Keep up the great work with the videos and knowledge you are providing.
Dude was intro one take? This is great.
It had to be I was cold
@@FluidMotorUnion Why install AC when you can just fill a barrel with cold water and carry that around?
The intro got me ngl lol, that's commitment.
@@FluidMotorUnion I dont know... That floor did look a little wet to start with. LOL
It was filled to the top so it spilled out as I lowered myself in
I don't know what I like more the thumb or intro. I want to open my ice box to a little OJ in it!
LSC losing their shit posting twice lol. Intro was excellent though.
This OJ guy is a smart cookie. He should work on cars or something🤔❤
The aftermarket Killer Chiller has been around for a while, with 03/04 Mustang Cobra specific kits. It can get the IAT below ambient. One issue people have seen is condensation on the pipes dripping water onto the track and then having issues with the officials when staging.
I love that he gave the awkward gut an opportunity to shine and share his knowledge. Tells you so much. Maybe in the future he will be better but you can tell he has so much to share. Great video very informative and fucking awesome motivation.
Thank you awkward guy. Keep doing your thing 👊
I use for my TT viper road course a water jet in front of the the air/water cooler and it work very simply with a temp target in the intake
Personally, I like the unscripted parts of the videos. Less robotic. Tons of good info, and I know you know and understand what you are sharing with us. Let your personality do most of the work. Keep up the good work!
OJ deserves a like for getting in that barrel of water for the content. I'm here for it
F/I interchiller kit now comes with all the lines pre crimped and fitted. suction line needs to be cut in 1 place and new oiekler clamps are provided as well as a fitting tool for proper placement.
I’m here for the mustache, not even gonna lie bro.
🥸
Taylor is a mad horsepower doctor 👨🏽⚕️👍🏽👍🏽
I've been waiting years a video exactly like this I'm so happy right now
So glad you enjoyed it!
OJ is da man! Nice detail on the "fun stuff" 😂 Alex, Home Depot "Super Lube" 14oz tub of silicone oring grease is like Merc sunroof grease. Never dries, thick, and safe for any kind of rubber, plastic, etc. Also same as dielectric grease.
90’s s class Mercedes also use the ac system to cool the fuel returning to the gas tank, cooler fuel = more power.
That's really more for emissions than power. Same reason most manufacturers went to a returnless style fuel system - heated fuel being returned to the tank isn't great for evaporative emissions. If you wanted to do it for power it would make more sense to cool the fuel on its way to the engine, but that's also not much of a thing bc the phase change from liquid to gas/vapor itself has WAY more of a cooling effect than trying to cool the fuel down a few degrees while it's still in liquid form (especially on a fuel injected engine).
ruclips.net/video/ymFjK3PRL_A/видео.html
@@nowayjose596 alternative to that, which would possibly make it less pointless is keep the fuel slightly cooled in the tank. Doesn't require a refrigeration system to do so either...
I feel as time progresses these systems will get more robust and simpler, but this is hot and the stuff people are looking for
47k followers with multi million follower production quality. Good video man you got my sub.
Awesome! Thank you!
The A45 AMG also chills its charge air with its AC.
I have an interchiller on my 2023 Nissan Z. Perfect for my drag racing endeavors ☝🏽
Dude!! This guys channel is really informative and unique.
Love the content!!
This guy gives off big Norm vibes from this old house
Toyota’s WRC team had that on their GT Four ST 185 for the safari rally spec back in the 90’s
This channel deserves 100k subs🙏🏻🙏🏻 Production is amazing👍🏻
We really appreciate it and work hard to keep you guys happy!
I am a Chicago Local so i am subscribing! Very knowledgeable guy for sure!
Awesome! Thank you!
In typical FMU fashion, they used a pretty extreme example to demonstrate and install and that's why we subscribe. The W222 is a large vehicle but it's also already packed with components, plus any engine bay with an M275/M279 is going to be devoid of open space, even an S-class. Bravo.
Wow, that ac cooler is a lot of money for moderate horsepower gains. Injecting e85 after the turbos will cool the intake temps for way less. But if you have this type of money this is a sexy install for sure.
I notice you said killer chiller lol. Man those guys went out of business after I paid them lol. Fortunately 3 months later I got a random package in the mail from them but it was only the main chiller unit but no lines are anything else…was going to go in my 03 cobra…supposed to be a kit. Now I’m not sure what to do with it…custom fit lines or it’s a paperweight. Hopefully y’all didn’t get scammed by them
Look up hose shops, they will make you every hose you need
What a badass intro. I love it!
This is commitment to a bit. I love it.
Brown and Miller and XRP make crimp fittings and have hose that are designed for ac systems. They are expensive, but you can get the lines and fittings, cut them to length and have the fittings crimped by a qualified shop that has their crimper. So that could be a viable option for people or shops who don’t want to mess with troublesome lines.
Have this installed on my street MR2 and love it!
OR ... and I know a lot of people will go mental about it - use a LPG liquid phase injection. There were few rally cars done with it, and yes the tank will give you a weight penalty, however ability to cool the charge sub ambient with just liquid gas can give you crazy gains ! and LPG is 105 octane and tad cheaper than nitro.
That's dope! Sounds elegant af
@@Skunkhunt_42 If you're interested about the details, there is this company "Mountue". They're "guns for hire" and do a lot of dev work for ford. They also did a lot of rally cars and their boys from the dyno were quite proud of their LPG thing. I was rather gob smacked, since for me LPG usually means power loss due to lower caloric value, but they shown me that with all my experience I'm still a moron :D
(side note, that LPG system was so good that they were slaying everybody and after one season they got banned from using LPG under the "it's an alternative fuel" excuse)
(side note 2: one of the guys said that their problem on the rally car was actually keeping the intake valves from freezing and hence they had an active system that was blocking the first intercooler to keep the charge air hotter so the pre valve intake won't drop below freezing)
@tommybronze3451 dope! Thanks for the leads there, down the rabbithole I go. As a chemE I could imagine one could get creative with the exact composition of the LPG for such optimization.
@@Skunkhunt_42 yeah, you could but tell any team manager that tank of fuel will cost them £30 vs few grand and they will bless you! (yes I remember my GT1 days from over a decade ago where aston martin used to charge us arm and leg for their “blessed” fuel for dbr9) - so making your own mix costing pretty peny is feasible but people would start questioning what benefits you’ll get. And with super high octane of LPG, one would maybe play around with intake oil / combustion stabiliser injection - WHEN race rules allow for that. Making your own LPG seems like a fools errand - thou here a tiny caveat, there are two mixes: winter and summer being sold, summer one has lower octane and higher caloric value while winter one has lower evaporation point, lower caloric value and higher octane numer - so it’s of the shelf choice that one can make for better performance …
@tommybronze3451 super cool thanks for the details. I'm not a racer but do love my 850 turbos and I work with n-butane, iso-butanr and propane daily for making hash oil. We design and build big processing plants so trying to keep it from igniting is our goal 😆
End of the day tho, it's a refrigerant, and this property we use to operate our systems. So I deal alot with carefully managing that effect, both of the high side for heat and low side for cooling.
For instance, right now, working on a liquid LPG injection into the hot vapor space to desuperheat it before the primary condenser to get more performance out of a machine being pushed for its available capacity.
We use blowers like yall car guys do too, similarly but again - not to ignight it😆
I wish I was a beer mechanic cause alota the best guys I work with are. I do what I do but I'm not as good when it comes to hot rodding my car
All in all, ima try and learn more about this cause I'll probably learn some things that help on the side of things I do with it. 🫡
Not what I thought you were going to say coming out of that barrel 😂
Well, few things to be said:
Great explanation how system works 👍
On the workmanship, you can do better. Routing of lines, cutting up the crash bar, etc. The Alibaba tank in the boot is not Ideal.
Wiring is also very cheap, especially looking at those switches....dude get some nice black metal ones, they ain't that expensive...
We personally also install interchillers, also from FI, and we replace front crash bars with custom reinforced aluminium tanks, that also often integrate the heat exchanger units ... Much neater solutions. Or on a C8 wette, we made custom tank that lived in the center tunnel.
Custom tanks are overall neater, not THAT expensive and usually provide a lot of volume to the system.
And we use nice Deutsch connectors on everything and proper quality switches.
Also shutting the fan in the interior, is nothing to be called full race mode🙈
Just some advice, on things to improve, no hate✌️
Custom tanks built as part the crash bar are not expensive?! I appreciate the feedback back but at the end of the day the customers budget ultimately dictates the work put out.
Easy to justify on personal rides or mega buck show builds, but a customer paying a fabricator by the hour for a tank that does the same job as the one they opted for to be mounted in the trunk… not everyone is going to pay that additional 2k plus for a fancy solution. Sure we offered but it’s not something that mattered to this particular customer.
Appreciate yall so much for this educational video.
Great job Taylor!👍🏾
Haha great video mate !
I couldn’t begin to imagine how stressful that install would be on a high end car or luxury car hahaha
But it’s definitely less intense when it’s cut and shut into a street drift missile 🤪
I'll stick to nitrous spraying the Air 2 Air intercooler. Subed
Since I run an Audi 3.0T with triple heat exhangers and I have upgraded the front heat exchanger I can get a pretty good hit most of the time unless the ambienrt air is really hot and humid. The question I always had with the system is what happens when it's really cold outside? I thought AC didn't work, either told by the car or for some other reason when it is cold. I think I get my best hits after 20 minute highway run in the winter. By then the front HX is full of very cold liquid and the engine oil, transmission oil an dcoolant are warm.
I live in Canada and it can be sub zero outside with no snow on the ground. Most of us go record timeslip hunting in May or October. You get the heat of the day in the ground.and then the air temps drop in the afternoon.
Most people with good Dragy hits have the ability to pick the temps when they run the car. They wait until it's really cold and go for just enough of a drive to warm the engine but have the HX system with near frigid coolant in it and go to "Mexico" behind their house.
The refrigerant is a seal system under pressure so its constant temp is controlled via the regulation of the compressor cycling. It won’t get colder, however the ambient temps can be colder and at a certain point might actually cool the cooler, because its temperature is regulated. So the chiller might be warming the ambient air, although the very act of being compressed through the supercharger and the operating engine temp would warm the air charge in operation…
Basically you can only get an engine at it specified OPERATING temp’s air so cold…regardless of ambient conditions.
Not up on current day Mopars but good to know Chrysler decided to try this. I remember reading about the 3rd Gen Ford Lightning (not the EV) that was tickling rumors of doing this with a Coyote, if not, a 5.4 Terminator like variant at the time (04-05) that never came to fruition.
Edit* lol, I wrote my comments ~3 seconds in to watching the vid, then the Lightning gets brought up, and you even used the word fruition... Mind you I wrote what I said before watching this through at all.
An ideal place for us speed seekers. Looking forward to my 8/19 drop off.
😎
The video i didnt know that i needed. Thanks Oj and LSC
great opening!!!!!
Thank you for the effort put into this video. I wish you were in Australia. Good luck with any future endeavours.
Love your videos. Keep up the good work!
Have always been curious about this, very cool!!
Fantastic video. I sincerely appreciate the education.
Glad it was helpful!
You guys are onto something here. sub'ed. Exhaust stuff was cool but this is so much more interesting imo. also, footage quality and color grading is really pro!
Awesome, thank you!
This ac system looks difficult to get it 100% and thanks for letting people know before they spend money they didn't expect. would love to see how it works on a old 2jz or something
Hell yeah, great info!!
I assume youll need a mix of hard and soft lines. Being that the engine does flex/move quite a bit, having everything hardlined would break causing leaks and more mess.
This guy made this installation sound harder than it actually is.
Fix a Handful of self installs and other shops jobs and you’ll realize I’m speaking from experience…
Probably feels good after a long hot day in the shop! hahaha
Actually you’re spot on…
Awesome work by your installers!! But serious question here......How much total weight was added to this car(fluids and all) to try and make more power over the stock intercooler system? Not even talking about the complexity of the system(install costs) and troubleshooting problems!! No wonder you don't see more of them done.
Nice video. Shame about the over cuts on the crash bar though, especially after making such a point of doing a good instal that looks nice
You forgot to mention that new cars use r-1234yz refrigerant as opposed to old skool r-134a (or r-12 for super old skool). R-1234yz is a semi-flammable refrigerant. It's imperative that the system gets properly evacuated using a micron gauge. I built a homemade ac for my 88 jeep yj a few months ago. Got tired of the old gas burner and decided to install a twacked out vw 1.9 tdi in it. I stumbled upon this video because I was planning on building a homemade chiller system for an A2W intercooler system. I plan on using a bar/plate chiller, two liquid solenoid valves, and two 1.5 ton TXV valves.
Thanks for the info!
OJ is the effing man!!! 🎉
that was commitment
Good stuff!!! Also, i was in Naperville a couple days ago, wish i wouldve remembered to drive by and see the shop. 🤦♂️
Next time!
My performance workshop in Australia, dealing with LS based engines ... yeah they really don't rate Kirk and his Interchiller system.
They've had multiple issues with AC pump failure, in-cabin air temp ... and seeing as the intercooler "brick" is inside the blower... had the brick fail and leak water into the engine.
Most of these water to air intercooler systems aren't designed to be ran at such low temps which can cause pre-mature failure of certain parts.
Really not worth the hassle unless its a dedicated drag car.
Which brand was that? The fi one?
@@coqulation Yeah.
I have a question,, but first is the pen light safe did it survive the fall to the bottom of the barrel 😮. But more so is the Fluid in the tank just water or could you do better with a different coolant, which I'm sure you could, but would it help ? I'm sure that Professor OJ has done the math and is working on a formula as we speak. Thank you Professor as always another great video and you always keep us thinking 🤔. What's next.
OJ i have a better idea for cooling the intercooler and way cheaper put nozzles in front of the intercooler spray co2 from a soda stream bottle turn the bottle upside down so it sprays co2 liquid put a boost solinoid in the line and control it with the ecu when the car gets into boost it sprays liquid co2which instantaniously turns to gas onto the intercooler liquid co2 is way colder than using the ac and liquid co2 can get as low as -56.5 degrees c or -68.8f in it's liquid form under pressure great idea for drag racing drifting or spirited driving cheers from down under
What about using those electric a/c units.
Yup! I was thinking about that. And make it a standalone system instead of tapping into the car's AC system.
I want one for my boosted tacoma project
Mercedes used to cool the fuel system going through the A/C way before any of these cars!
Porsche as well...
And just like that OJ had dropped knowledge and swam deep to the bottom of the barrel only to come out again when the world needed him next, like Godzilla.
Ded 🤣☠️
what will O J do next....great team yall make it look ...Too easy !!
stay tuned...
Does the factory system with 010 Bosch pump continue to work on its own(stand alone), if you aren’t using the chiller?
couldnt this be done stand alone. like a total 2nd system separate from the original and using an electric ac compressor like one from a telsa?
Yes
My thoughts exactly
Electric cars use the same to cool the battery.
Crazy intro ! Cool
Need more vids on this S65 build
Thanks for the information.
I was planning to install an interchiller style system into my 2006 Saleen S331.
One problem no one talks about or seems to have solved, is the internal condensation that occurs after shut down inside the manifold.
Short of limiting the overall chiller target temp of the water to 5-7 degs, subject to humidity and therefore above condensation point.
I can't see how to keep water out of the motor on shutdown?
I have heard of local examples of this happening due our 80-90% humidity local weather, under drag racing conditions of stop/start. One competitor damaged his motor because of it.
OJ have encountered this previously?
Personally I love the idea and can see the advantages.
I’ll be real honest, without refrigerant pumping through the system to keep the intercooler chilled, once shut off… ambient engine temp should get intake up over 100 which will rapidly help vaporize any left overwater before a restart… I mean most configurations with intake air pressurized and under vacuum back and forth running, I cant see any significant amount of water collecting to be an issue when turned off, but it really depends on your specific setup.
@FluidMotorUnion great reply. If I do continue with my plan to install the system. I was going to wire in a turbo timer type shutdown delay that turns off the chiller system, before idling the motor long enough evaporate off any condensation.
Also thanks for your recent exhaust videos about tuning the sound. I am looking forward to experimenting with expansion cones to achieve a better overall sound and less drone.
I have the forced induction inner chiller installed on my 21 Roush 2650 setup. I’ve never had an issue with condensation living in Houston. Few tips during the winter time turn off the AC let the car idle for a few minutes to melt any ice that might have built up on the inner cooler and as previously stated the heat will evaporate any water. Ice tanks are not recommended for this setup as it gives time for the fluid to warm up running under the car with the heat from exhaust best options use a D-gas bottle with a reservoir tank. Another thing in the video I didn’t see was wrapping all the metal fittings into the chiller with corking tape, bonus on using braided lines as it definitely helps, I used braided lines and then wrapped them with insulation to achieve the highest thermal efficiency. My reservoir tank is also covered with 2 layers of foam insulation. These kits seemed intimidating to install but once you study how to install it’s actually very easy and forced inductions send instructions for every situation. My IAT2 temps in 106 degree houston weather last weeks was 58 degrees with multiple back to back pulls and I have just over 3 gallons of fluid. I highly recommend this system I had a lot of doubt from hearing horrific stories about the killer chiller system. Spend the extra money go with forced induction chiller.
@h-townremodeling1519 sadly I already bought a killer kit.
Great reply and thank you for the info.
I wish you would address the relatively reasonably priced electric standalone AC compressors. Adding a standalone intercooler compressor may not only bring more consistency (safety) to the intercooler system. I would think you would also provide ease of maintenance. step number one does the cabin AC system work?
I have true dual front and rear heat and AC in My 2000 Ford Excursion. I'm working up a plan to ditch my 1 belt driven compressor for 2 electric units. Maybe from a Prius? Still researching as of this moment. In my case the advantage is even if I only have half an air conditioning system working that's better than no air conditioning system. The removal of parasitic drag from the engine is not a bad bonus.
Neat concept
Electric EV A/C compressor kit is the way to go. Less robbing of HP from engine, but you'll need a higher AMP Alt to match plus proper wiring. So added work to DIY but I think we'll worth the effort.
i haven't seen much feedback about the feasibility of these systems but would be interested to experiment. Are there any aftermarket manufactures or kits that you have heard good things about other than the concept being used in electric vehicles?
@@FluidMotorUnion There are a lot of complete kits available online, some cheap and some more expensive. As for testing purposes, maybe start with a cheaper variant for R&D. Then go from there. My son and I are designing an intake for his 2000 Impreza to except a Whipple 1.6l 100AX Supercharger. The intake will incorporate a liquid to air interchiller system. We are gonna be using an electric A/C system for interchiller and for the cabin. He plans on racing AutoX. Hopefully this is allowed but here is a link to an informative vid on someone incorporating an Electric A/C but just for the cabin.
ruclips.net/video/mRo05wph2F0/видео.htmlsi=N-4xAMtIJ26l9b7G
@@FluidMotorUnion also, because the interchiller does not rely on air to pass thru it, you can place it anywhere you would like in the car. As well, with electric a/c, you can do the same. You can move all components to the rear of car to weight balance the car better for better handling performance.
I think my first reply was auto removed because I linked another vid to it. Let me know if you see 2 reply other than this one. If not I will contact thru an email with more info on electric a/c systems. I've done a lot of research on them.
nICE and complex 🥶
It only took 3 years for my idea to make it to the mainstream. Ask John Sears about it.
well, there has to be a balance between losses in hp due to AC working and AC lowering IC temps in order to get more hp hehe
Think of it more like a battery… storing energy for use, but not being able to replenish quickly if the demand was constant…
It can provide HP above its parasitic loss only because the cooling capacity was built up during periods when the demand wasn’t high.
If you all out at max hp for extended periods, you would eventually run the cooling capacity down past the point where the system could keep up.
So this is a “burst” use system in practical application.
Would it be easier to spray nitrous onto the intercooler?
Want one for my Ruckus 😂
Would a 7.3 l power stroke work truck benefit from a system like this?
Your tech Taylor *knows* his shit.
Guys and gals like that must be hard to find.
100% it is hard to find smart and passionate techs like Taylor!
I have a question non related to the video but to a video in the past would you guys do a exhaust system for a fortwo smart I'm in the chicago area and would like to take it
We can do practically anything as long as we have the vehicle in house
Try Pnp interchiller. No splicing or crimps.
If you buy a direct fit kit or the fittings you have adaptors, this is the way to go… but universal with them it’s the same boat.
LOL I AM 3 SECONDS IN AND DEAD. 😂
Mmmmeh. Install water meth kit, fill with northern windshield washer fluid, and call it a day. We've been doing it in puerto Rico for y years, and it works like a charm. Even just straight water gets it done. I think it's the only reason they sell freeze resistant windshield washer fluid in a place that doesn't reach the 60s in the winter 😆
I just cant take someone that comes out of a drum of water, explaining technical stuff. Neeeeext
You made a good case for methanol injection. lol
Honestly that’s the point. Not trying to burn any bridges with suppliers, so best we can do is lay all the facts out for the viewer to make that decision.
OJ! How your big self make it in that little drum?!
We didn’t film the part where I folded my knees just right and said “if I go under and can’t see me pop up, dump the drum!”
@@FluidMotorUnion lol, definitely gotta have the backup plan on standby
Not overlooking the awesomeness of your shop, over all 99.9% legit no one is perfect. Please allow me a chance to bring into light modifying the crash bumper in the context of crash management in auto vehicles. This is probably a customer decision and they need insight here, I don't doubt they approved it.
Consider I was a "crash bumper" prototype and test engineer for 2 years. I don't know everything, just produced prototype parts for vehicle builds). The design engineers explained they estimate impact energy they need to absorb in a crash. Then the assembled crash beam and crash boxes (small "boxes" that connect body to crash beam), they are fixtured in a gigantic test press and crushed, deriving the energy absorption from force displacement. Fun fact the bends, folds, slots in a crash box are there to control how it deforms, ideally collapses like bellows.
What’s the HP gain from the cooler charge air vs the HP loss from the compressor?
None during a run since factory AC compressors cycle off during WOT typically. These systems don’t change that. Think of the cooling potential as a battery that is built during idle and cruise and when intake temps are higher during max output it dips into the reserve.
Yes it will eventually out pace the capacity, but not for your quarter mile run…
I dont want the chiller for extra power. I want it so I can run pump gas with over 1khp in my daily & not get det & spark knock if caught in traffic imo.
Didnt realize miles morales decided to become a mechanic
Does this apply to a Cummins Turbo diesel?
Get a hydraulic hand crimper and just use beadlock fittings. If you are getting failed crimps, youre doing it wrong or bought a crappy crimper with shitty crimping dies.
AJ, @1:06 you’re inside a (somewhat modded) w211 E55 AMG. Does this intercooler mod apply to this car?
Absolutely. We had one in the shop we were going to show but shooting ran long and they picked up…
Mercedes used the ac to cool fuel lines in the 80's or 90's i think
I'm sure you try to read or respond to every comment.. which seems impossible..
Regardless, I have interest in your exhaust layout on an 3.0t s5. Also other questions about the ac/intercooler
"Read" is still a possibility at this stage in our growth, but responding is a pick and choose for sure!
The main issue with the 3.0T B8.5 is the market isn't really asking for a premium exhaust option, as pricing seems to be "value" driven, which is why there aren't many great sounding options. We've done the motor with success in the distant past and even were selling our branded test pipes in a 3.5 in size in 2013!- but no one wanted to pay more than the cheapest offerings, so not wanting to take part in a race to the bottom, we left that market.
We'd be willing to explore options further if you emailed us directly, but understand the pricing would not be inline with the current offerings of $2K...
Hello. I recently had fi unit installed in my 05 E55 to fi spec, new accumulator, year old compressor, no leaks. I am having issue with ac staying cold when at idle, fan works properly, freon was vacuumed and recharged. I would bring car to you guys but you are 11 hrs away. Any ideas. Keep up the great work with the videos and knowledge you are providing.
What are your operating pressures at?
41 192 with solenoid closed
52 175 with solenoid open
Kinda sounds like there might be a restriction by the expansion valve or the factory dryer. I assume it’s 80 degrees F ambient?
Ok, I said accumulator but I meant a new expansion valve.