Unfortunately any link suspension that has 4 links (including radius arms) has bind when articulated. Triangulated has very little due to the narrow point that the pair of links meet. The bind comes from the links wanting to twist the axle tubes.
How often are you replacing joints? The bushings on mine go out after only a few wheeling trips. They last fine on the street and mild wheeling, but after a few trips the bushings are all junk. I triangulated them around 10 degrees, and they are around 36 inches long. You also pay the price with handling quirks with radius arms. They have low anti-dive, every hill my suspension drops out and every time I brake at speed it compresses almost to full bump. I have seen this on pretty much every short-wheelbase rig, not that much of an issue with a longer wheelbase truck. Now what makes radius arms awesome is that they are super easy to setup and package, and have exceptional street manners since they kind of act as their own sway bar. But you miss out a lot on the tuneability and performance of a properly setup 3 link. I will probably end up swapping over to a 3 link soon, I see too many guys out wheeling doing the same stuff I do with three links that just flat out perform and handle better.
@LScout800 you appear to have missed the entire message of this video. Not all radius arms are created equal. The entire goal was to debunk blanket statements of "radius arms _________" or "3/4 link are always better...."and your comment was full of them If your rad arms shredded joints, and handled poorly. That wasn't because it was RAD arm. It's because it was set up wrong. If you're going 3 link, and set it up equally wrong. It won't be better. If anything rad arms are the setup of choice for optimum handling. That's why as time went on, all solid front axle factory full size trucks went to radius arms. Many went from 4 link to rad arms. Such as dodge. Those bushings last 100k miles plus. Personally mine has every one of the same joints I installed in April 2020 *edit that's roughly 120 wheeling trips If a truck shredded joints "every few trips" I can't imagine it was set up remotely correctly. But I've seen so many Facebook/ youtube/ Google educated fabbers get similar results. Please don't attribute that to radius arms. Even I didn't start picking up on the subtle nuanced principles until at least my 4th or 5th radius arm build.
So I wheel old land rovers with a similar ford set up radius arm. Im looking at making a set of arms (I also need to correct pinpoint angle by 3 degrees) Have you seen radius arms with a pivot on the arm with a removable pin that is to be removed offroad only? If you could take a look at a disco 1 front end I’d be great full to hear your input on what could/should be done. Thanks, subbed.
Have you seen Metal Cloak and others offering Rad Arms with a spring on the upper locating arm so you don't even have to disconnect anything? I address disconnecting upper locating arms on radius arms in other videos. The focus of this video is more to dispel the widely held belief that all 4 links are better than all radius arms Like you mention, disconnecting links will improve flex, not just on a Rad arm. If I disconnected one of the upper links in my non-triangulated 4 link in the video. It would flex even more. But Tahoverlanding Is not about extreme measures such as temporarily disconnecting links just to gain performance. Not to mention in this video You see our swap yet substantial flex without needing to do such things ruclips.net/video/xreLdMWw8K8/видео.html We are all about the sustainable long-term. Set it up right the first time Drive it there comfortably with good road manners, wheel With maximum performance it, drive it back Disconnecting links and things To modify the Suspension performance is not far removed from just putting A tube buggy on a trailer and hauling it out there.
@@tahoverlanding thanks for the reply and I’m with you. I’m just trying to figure out a way I can have the front end of the disco flex more, reliably, comfortably and maintain road manners as I never trailer it anywhere. I’m just not sure with the discos design I can bring the frame points any closer together ie (mount on inside of frame vs outside) Most people correct the pinion angle with other bolt on brand arms and put a set of slotted bushings in and call it done. For me it’s not good enough as the back end of the discovery flexes amazing with the a armed 3 link. I really would like to match the front. Thanks I’ll check more of your videos out
@riverbedoverland1960 It would take custom fab to triangulate the Rad arms for sure. But you would see the benefits. If extensive fab is out of the question, a disconnectable upper locating arm is a valid option for you. I don't discuss it much, because the on road manners of our rigs when you pull a locating arm isn't great. Specifically the front end pulls and dives under heavy braking And for example I ran 160 miles of the pony express trail this past weekend. Some of it is gravel high- speed, other parts are slow and technical. Needing to climb under to disconnect/reconnect 7 times isn't worth it to me. Plus I'd hate to have someone follow the idea "disconnect this and get more flex" and then wipe out their truck causing injury or damage
I find that stock suspension is only good for driving on pavement at slow speeds. If you want more you are going to need to upgrade. Doesn't matter the brand.
Do you mean the rear? others have tried, these trucks with those joints don't gain much over what they have stock. They do gain a little, but not so much that many feel it to be worth the cost or effort. Like I mention, non triangulated short arm 4 links bind geometrically and joints just don't have the ability to counteract it very much.
I do also beat it really hard. I push it further than most people ever will and that's how that got bent In the future I'll show what works the best to upgrade the rear when it comes to flex
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Unfortunately any link suspension that has 4 links (including radius arms) has bind when articulated. Triangulated has very little due to the narrow point that the pair of links meet. The bind comes from the links wanting to twist the axle tubes.
How often are you replacing joints? The bushings on mine go out after only a few wheeling trips. They last fine on the street and mild wheeling, but after a few trips the bushings are all junk. I triangulated them around 10 degrees, and they are around 36 inches long.
You also pay the price with handling quirks with radius arms. They have low anti-dive, every hill my suspension drops out and every time I brake at speed it compresses almost to full bump. I have seen this on pretty much every short-wheelbase rig, not that much of an issue with a longer wheelbase truck.
Now what makes radius arms awesome is that they are super easy to setup and package, and have exceptional street manners since they kind of act as their own sway bar. But you miss out a lot on the tuneability and performance of a properly setup 3 link. I will probably end up swapping over to a 3 link soon, I see too many guys out wheeling doing the same stuff I do with three links that just flat out perform and handle better.
@LScout800 you appear to have missed the entire message of this video.
Not all radius arms are created equal.
The entire goal was to debunk blanket statements of "radius arms _________" or "3/4 link are always better...."and your comment was full of them
If your rad arms shredded joints, and handled poorly. That wasn't because it was RAD arm. It's because it was set up wrong.
If you're going 3 link, and set it up equally wrong. It won't be better.
If anything rad arms are the setup of choice for optimum handling. That's why as time went on, all solid front axle factory full size trucks went to radius arms. Many went from 4 link to rad arms. Such as dodge.
Those bushings last 100k miles plus.
Personally mine has every one of the same joints I installed in April 2020
*edit that's roughly 120 wheeling trips
If a truck shredded joints "every few trips" I can't imagine it was set up remotely correctly. But I've seen so many Facebook/ youtube/ Google educated fabbers get similar results.
Please don't attribute that to radius arms.
Even I didn't start picking up on the subtle nuanced principles until at least my 4th or 5th radius arm build.
So I wheel old land rovers with a similar ford set up radius arm. Im looking at making a set of arms (I also need to correct pinpoint angle by 3 degrees)
Have you seen radius arms with a pivot on the arm with a removable pin that is to be removed offroad only? If you could take a look at a disco 1 front end I’d be great full to hear your input on what could/should be done. Thanks, subbed.
Have you seen Metal Cloak and others offering Rad Arms with a spring on the upper locating arm so you don't even have to disconnect anything?
I address disconnecting upper locating arms on radius arms in other videos.
The focus of this video is more to dispel the widely held belief that all 4 links are better than all radius arms
Like you mention, disconnecting links will improve flex, not just on a Rad arm. If I disconnected one of the upper links in my non-triangulated 4 link in the video. It would flex even more.
But Tahoverlanding Is not about extreme measures such as temporarily disconnecting links just to gain performance.
Not to mention in this video You see our swap yet substantial flex without needing to do such things
ruclips.net/video/xreLdMWw8K8/видео.html
We are all about the sustainable long-term. Set it up right the first time
Drive it there comfortably with good road manners, wheel With maximum performance it, drive it back
Disconnecting links and things To modify the Suspension performance is not far removed from just putting A tube buggy on a trailer and hauling it out there.
@@tahoverlanding thanks for the reply and I’m with you. I’m just trying to figure out a way I can have the front end of the disco flex more, reliably, comfortably and maintain road manners as I never trailer it anywhere.
I’m just not sure with the discos design I can bring the frame points any closer together ie (mount on inside of frame vs outside)
Most people correct the pinion angle with other bolt on brand arms and put a set of slotted bushings in and call it done. For me it’s not good enough as the back end of the discovery flexes amazing with the a armed 3 link.
I really would like to match the front.
Thanks I’ll check more of your videos out
@riverbedoverland1960 It would take custom fab to triangulate the Rad arms for sure. But you would see the benefits.
If extensive fab is out of the question, a disconnectable upper locating arm is a valid option for you.
I don't discuss it much, because the on road manners of our rigs when you pull a locating arm isn't great. Specifically the front end pulls and dives under heavy braking
And for example I ran 160 miles of the pony express trail this past weekend. Some of it is gravel high- speed, other parts are slow and technical.
Needing to climb under to disconnect/reconnect 7 times isn't worth it to me.
Plus I'd hate to have someone follow the idea "disconnect this and get more flex" and then wipe out their truck causing injury or damage
i have 01 dually cummins 3500 i am about to build myself radius long arms for. Im on 7 inches of lift any advice or anything to look out for?
Watch this. It goes over a lot of the principles you'll want to consider
ruclips.net/video/1opjYq7Ezl0/видео.htmlsi=_BlR5TpAc8UoY8fD
I find that stock suspension is only good for driving on pavement at slow speeds. If you want more you are going to need to upgrade. Doesn't matter the brand.
#radiusarmswork
Wouldn’t it be better for the Tahoe to build new 4 links with Johnny joints and bushings to reduce binding when flexing?
Do you mean the rear? others have tried, these trucks with those joints don't gain much over what they have stock. They do gain a little, but not so much that many feel it to be worth the cost or effort.
Like I mention, non triangulated short arm 4 links bind geometrically and joints just don't have the ability to counteract it very much.
I do also beat it really hard. I push it further than most people ever will and that's how that got bent
In the future I'll show what works the best to upgrade the rear when it comes to flex
@@tahoverlanding
Yes I meant the rear. I’m currently acquiring components then the Tahoverland kit to complete my tahoe.
@@RickAiazzi I look forward to setting you up with what you need 👍
@@RickAiazzi I have no noticeable gain in droop, I used Heim joints on every rear link... I did however gain a ton of noise!!!