I have always marveled at just how perfectly everything fits together with this swap. It really is like it was intended that way by the OEM. Everything fits soooo well.
When you mention tucking the axle to determine bump stops and lower arm lengths, are you tucking the axle in a level position or can you discuss the proper way of tucking the axle for this process?
This video is focused on just the Rad arm length. I can gladly do a video on those points though. My next couple are already set. But I can get to that one, that's a good suggestion
@@tahoverlanding I would greatly appreciate it. I love your videos, unfortunately I'm working on a dakota instead but using almost every single one of your videos related to a SAS for my research haha
@@tahoverlanding it's an 02 dakota quad cab 4.7L awd. Planning on using 2nd Gen dodge one ton axles because of availability in my area. Also planning a 5.7 hemi swap with a 5sp tranny and removing the awd tcase. Shooting for capabilities of 37s but plan on ending up with 35s and air lockers front and rear. You mention shifting the front axle forward 1½", I was thinking 2". Why do you advise against more than 1½"?
@@bikerboyz80817 so on the gmt800 the reason I don't recommend any more than 1-1/2 is that any further forward and the drag link and tie rod interfere with the pitman arm as suspension compresses. But the architecture of a Dakota is totally different so how far you can move it forward is anyone's guess. If you're using 2nd Gen Dodge axles a few of my products would probably work for you and make it much easier
Can you do this swap with a gmt 900? I want to do this but I think the steering part might be a problem and my truck has coilovers and not torsion keys
Would there be any issue with making the length longer so that it's behind the output yoke by a few inches? (This is for a different application, 78 F150.)
You can do anything, making concessions always comes with a tradeoff. Ideally you have perfect radius arm geometry, which keeps all joints in the shaft at the ideal working angle at all points in the suspension cycle. Which limits potential for failure. But often times the radius arm geometry isn't perfect, and it works just fine.
@@tahoverlanding The crossmember for the NP205 is integrated with the rear radius arm mount. The rear mount is maybe a couple of inches forward of the yoke as you said. I'm using RuffStuff's frame outriggers and WFO arms to mount an 05 D60 in my truck. Because the crossmember is in the way, I would either have to move the rear radius arm mount a good 5 inches back, or do a little extra work to minimize that to something like 2-3 inches. I'm just not seeing any issues with a longer radius arm/mounting it behind the yoke especially since my suspension travel will be 1:3 ratio of uptravel/droop and I want to make sure I'm not missing anything.
@DaChyKH I once installed an off road designs Doubler Kit on a 1978 f150 which moves the front output back like 12 inches. To my knowledge that thing is still running around 7 years later. It's the hardcore, high load, flexed out situations where you'll see any issues (if you end up seeing any at all). If you aren't doing that often. You won't Even know the difference But in cases where they don't match in front/ back location. You want to mock the axle up and determine how high to mount it up/down to keep the pinion pointing at the tcase yoke as much of the cycle as possible It sounds like you're using off the shelf parts, so you can't adjust the up/down of the mounting either?
@@tahoverlanding If I'm understanding the question: yeah, using ruffstuff outriggers/wfo rear mounts but could fab up a drop mount if necessary (don't want to as this is a rock crawler). The WFO arms allow for pinion angle adjustment however. It sounds like my approach will get me started/down the road, and I can use limit straps/bump stops to constrain it until I learn how it behaves. I really appreciate this video and your responses.
I have always marveled at just how perfectly everything fits together with this swap. It really is like it was intended that way by the OEM. Everything fits soooo well.
That's facts right there
Really good info here, thank you dude!
If you guys think it's good for me to go through these single issues in detail like this I will keep it up
When you mention tucking the axle to determine bump stops and lower arm lengths, are you tucking the axle in a level position or can you discuss the proper way of tucking the axle for this process?
This video is focused on just the Rad arm length. I can gladly do a video on those points though. My next couple are already set. But I can get to that one, that's a good suggestion
@@tahoverlanding I would greatly appreciate it. I love your videos, unfortunately I'm working on a dakota instead but using almost every single one of your videos related to a SAS for my research haha
@@bikerboyz80817 I'll do one when I can. What year Dakota? What axle are you using?
@@tahoverlanding it's an 02 dakota quad cab 4.7L awd. Planning on using 2nd Gen dodge one ton axles because of availability in my area. Also planning a 5.7 hemi swap with a 5sp tranny and removing the awd tcase. Shooting for capabilities of 37s but plan on ending up with 35s and air lockers front and rear. You mention shifting the front axle forward 1½", I was thinking 2". Why do you advise against more than 1½"?
@@bikerboyz80817 so on the gmt800 the reason I don't recommend any more than 1-1/2 is that any further forward and the drag link and tie rod interfere with the pitman arm as suspension compresses. But the architecture of a Dakota is totally different so how far you can move it forward is anyone's guess.
If you're using 2nd Gen Dodge axles a few of my products would probably work for you and make it much easier
Can you do this swap with a gmt 900? I want to do this but I think the steering part might be a problem and my truck has coilovers and not torsion keys
Yes, it can be done. But there's extra steps. Message me over at tahoverlanding.com and I can go into detail better than I can in a comments section
Would there be any issue with making the length longer so that it's behind the output yoke by a few inches? (This is for a different application, 78 F150.)
You can do anything, making concessions always comes with a tradeoff.
Ideally you have perfect radius arm geometry, which keeps all joints in the shaft at the ideal working angle at all points in the suspension cycle. Which limits potential for failure.
But often times the radius arm geometry isn't perfect, and it works just fine.
The Ford radius arms attachment point is usually fairly forward. What is the motivation to move it so far back?
@@tahoverlanding The crossmember for the NP205 is integrated with the rear radius arm mount. The rear mount is maybe a couple of inches forward of the yoke as you said. I'm using RuffStuff's frame outriggers and WFO arms to mount an 05 D60 in my truck. Because the crossmember is in the way, I would either have to move the rear radius arm mount a good 5 inches back, or do a little extra work to minimize that to something like 2-3 inches.
I'm just not seeing any issues with a longer radius arm/mounting it behind the yoke especially since my suspension travel will be 1:3 ratio of uptravel/droop and I want to make sure I'm not missing anything.
@DaChyKH I once installed an off road designs Doubler Kit on a 1978 f150 which moves the front output back like 12 inches.
To my knowledge that thing is still running around 7 years later.
It's the hardcore, high load, flexed out situations where you'll see any issues (if you end up seeing any at all). If you aren't doing that often. You won't Even know the difference
But in cases where they don't match in front/ back location.
You want to mock the axle up and determine how high to mount it up/down to keep the pinion pointing at the tcase yoke as much of the cycle as possible
It sounds like you're using off the shelf parts, so you can't adjust the up/down of the mounting either?
@@tahoverlanding If I'm understanding the question: yeah, using ruffstuff outriggers/wfo rear mounts but could fab up a drop mount if necessary (don't want to as this is a rock crawler). The WFO arms allow for pinion angle adjustment however.
It sounds like my approach will get me started/down the road, and I can use limit straps/bump stops to constrain it until I learn how it behaves.
I really appreciate this video and your responses.