My man, in a world where A.I. algorithms are hiding help videos, I'm glad your video slipped through the cracks. The micro-air website gave me every wire diagram EXCEPT for my trane. I found your video, did step by step and it's working perfectly. Got the Bluetooth showing me all the info, too. Much appreciated.
Old news now, but their webpage for A/C models does not show Trane under RV Brand Specific Diagrams, but does show Trane Models (3 Links) under the Home Brand Specific Diagrams. So was it A.I. or possibly the wrong selection? At any rate, old news now and you got what you needed. BTW, I have Trane and did what I wrote above....at first, lol.
I think you sold yourself short Jim. Your first reading of around 61 Amps was with the device installed. Had you taken a reading with a meter capable of detecting inrush current before you installed the device it would have been a lot more than 61 Amps! Probably closer to 100 Amps. Without knowing this number it is impossible to say but I would bet your number for current drop was more like 65-70%. Great job and thanks so much for sharing. Much appreciated!
This is probably the second DIY video that I have seen on this topic and I would also recommend changing out the start and run capacitors first if they are showing signs of age like rust/corrosion or low capacitance. Change them out one at a time allowing a couple of run cycles each time to make sure that the system is still functioning correctly before you tie in the Easy Start. Great video presentation. Thank you for sharing this.
I have a 4-ton (46,000 BTU) A/C unit. Two years ago I installed a Micro-Air EasyStart 368 (4-ton) Soft Starter ASY-368-X48-BLUE. It now has 26,400 starts. My AC unit now uses 12.8 to 13.8 Amps and a Start Peak of 33 to 36 Amps. I bought it at Global Yacht Supply. It was shipped from Micro-Air.
*TheSweetGee has the clue. When GYS was on 12th Court in Riviera Beach they actually had a legit storefront. Then GYS moved around a bit. As you mentioned, GYS is now an office (Suite F) on US-1 in NPB. Have only one sketchy Yelp review and that Drop-Ship vibe. As every Floridian knows, scammers and flakes abound because new marks arrive here daily. Proving once again, PT Barnum was right. Cheers!*
I have a Trane XL16i, 4 ton unit and just installed the ASY-368-X72- BLUE and my starting amps went from 122 amps down to an incredible 34.7 amps and my running amps are down to 9.3 amps.
I have a 4 ton also and was wondering about doing the x72 instead of the x48. Just in case I upgraded my unit didn't want to purchase another easystart unit.
Thanks for posting the video. I also have a Trane XL16i that was installed in 2018 but it's a 3 ton unit and only has one capacitor. Good to see you re-oriented the wire nuts on the line cable to point up -- looks like you had a numbskull tech who installed them down so they could collect water and debris. I'm considering installing one of these devices and when I took off the access panel on my A/C, whoa, a chipmunk (I'm guessing) had built a little nest in there. And the top of my capacitor is rusty - another indication the area behind the panel is open to intrusion.
You have a keen eye! Yes, those wire nuts should have been pointed up. Fortunately the EasyStart is in a weatherproof enclosure, so it could, in theory, be mounted outside. But we get lots of moisture in Seattle, so I'm glad it fit in that compartment.
To add to the discussion. I bought a MicroAir soft starter. Had the company confirm that is was sized correctly and they even verified the connections - run wire, etc. Worked great for 2 months. Then no cold air. House in Florida, in the summer, heating up to 85+. I was out of town, so called my local AC tech and he discovered the run wire connection from the soft start was burned. For a distance of over 6 inches. He rewired the AC and Voila cold air again. I contacted MicroAir and told them what happened. Me being a trusting consumer, I thought they would stand by their product. NOPE! They told me the failure was caused by the heat. You think? Florida, in the summer, DUH! The original run wire worked for 9 years and after reconnecting the AC works fine. There is something wrong with the soft started and they won't admit it or support their unit. BUYER BEWARE!!
That's sad. Micro-Air has a good reputation for customer support. A burned wire might have also been caused by a loose or poor wire nut or crimp connection.
I bought the Flex unit. I noticed a defect on the cover that could compromise the seal. I sent them an email with pictures. They sent me another Flex unit with the same defect only slightly worse. Now I'm on hold with the install.
The starting peak amps without the micro air easy start would be higher than the 61.3 amps you got on the first start. So your savings is going to be more than the 48.3% that you calculated. You can use the nameplate lock rotor amps (LRA) to get a closer figure on your savings. On a 5 ton unit the starting amps is going to be closer to 70 or 80 A without the micro air easy start.
Very good video. Did you happen to check the amps on the Fan? I am curious to know what the fan amps are initially to allow deducting the fan amps from the Total amps prior to installing the Easy Start. That would provide the amps initially by the compressor to allow knowing what the Easy Start is doing with the compressor after installation. I am considering a similar installation for my Trane outdoor unit with Easy Start 368 Blue unit. Did you contact Trane and ask about using the Easy Start ? I want to know what they said if you did. Thanks for your video - now, what does Trane think of the Easy Start device???
actually, your before and after starting amps are better than you indicate. most ac's start at 80 to 100 amps, so your results are really pretty phenomenal. certainly, this amperage would be able to be started with a 50 amp generator no problem, even with the generator running other essential things on the circuit.
I have a 2008 model Trane XR13 5-ton unit with an EasyStart installed that the Live Current is between 12 and 14 amps. However, the Last Start Peak fluctuates between 34 and 74 amps. Why the huge fluctuation I don't know, but the EasyStart doesn't seem like it would help my A/C to work with even a mid-sized (9,500 W) generator.
Any issues with the Micro-Air EasyStart 368 Soft Starter (Model ASY-368-X72-BLUE) since posting the video? Really looking hard at the soft start for my 5 ton A/C. Great video thanks for posting.
I hope you dont mind if I ask a question, I have a 5ton Carrie dual stage blower motor, did they say how to connect that by chance, Does your unit had dual stage motor?
You left out so many important details. Attaching the easy start, attaching the butt connector, reading the schematic to determine where the wires would be connected, etc.
Likely cut the in rush current by more than half. Even on that first start it was already working. You would have needed to use a clamp meter to measure the in rush current before you connected the soft starter to truly know what your original in rush amperage was.
Great point. I didn't have a suitable clamp meter to measure the original inrush current. The A/C label indicates LRA=118A, so the EasyStart certainly lowers it quite a bit.
in your recap - you do NOT remove the black wire - you removed the screw and put the easy start black wire onto that same terminal, and re-inserted the screw.
Question.... on the 5 restarts did each one start the compressor? I installed one on my house and the compressor wouldn't start. It was like it didnt have enough entergy. It kinda growled and stopped. So i was afraid it would mess up my system. I pulled the breaker. I took it off and sent MicroAir a letter. They said install it like i did. I was just scared to try it again. Yesterday had a tech out and he serviced the unit snd had him hook it up. Did the samething. He wasnt sure about the EasyStart first time for him also. Did the same thing again. So my question am i to try this no start for at least 5 times? I just dont want to burn my unit up......thank you to anyone that can answer this.....
That's not good. The compressor should start each time. The 5 starts are simply for the EasyStart to "learn" your compressor characteristics to minimize the startup current surge. The sequence should be: 1. thermostat triggers fan to start; 2. a few seconds later the compressor should kick on. Does your compressor start normally without the EasyStart?
@@litzdog911 I bought it 2 years ago. Had an accident and couldn't install it. My ac man came out to service the unit and I asked him to install it. He did and it did the same thing.
Question for you. I installed my Micro Air Soft Start on my 5 ton about 3 weeks ago. The 5 ton unit is less than 3 years old so it's fairly new. In the heat of the day, I get a "Over Current" fault. It'll be 93+ degrees out when I get that fault. Micro Air says it may be a weak run capacitor...... But I doubt it being so new. They also tell me to have the soft starter to relearn in the heat of the day. That hasn't solved it. Have you ever experienced this with your unit?
I have the Trane XLi18 4TWX8 which looks very similar to yours. When I looked at the Trane electrical one-line it shows a variable speed fan, so the 240V is directly connected to the fan and then turned on by control wires. I am assuming yours is the same and doesn't cause a problem with switching on the fan first? I sent an email to Micro-Air and they said it shouldn't be an issue. But wanted to ask someone who might have installed it on the same type of CU.
Yours is different. My A/C does not have a variable speed fan. It seems that there are several version of this A/C. But they're right, it should still work fine. The EasyStart helps with the compressor and doesn't do anything for the fan.
Why you say first The orange wire joint with the herm connection And later you say the orange wire connect on the run point terminal Connection explained Or you confused the run with herm cool interesting
I agree with you, but let's give him credit for DYI. What got me confused is that he first said "to remove the compressor black wire" when in reality he added the black wire instead. Ninety nine percent of all the videos I watched done by so called professional installers neither one of them moved over the wires or at least cut the wire tie for a better picture. After all he has done a good job!
It still amazes me how installers mount the c/u so close to the wall of the house & how home owners don’t trim back shrubs & plants that are too close to the c/u. Wake up people & pay attention to detail.
Soft starters put on systems not designed for it is not a good thing to do to your AC. They can damage your compressor windings and will definitely void your warranty. Also the electronically altered waveforms coming out of that box cant be measured with a clamp meter, which gives inaccurately very low readings given the illusion that this thing is running your system on far less power which is a farce. Clamp meters can only measure 60hz unaltered current not the proprietary current modulation from that magic box. Dont be a "follow the leader utuber" By listening to people trying to make a buck pushing these things (or bragging about them) not knowing what there talking about getting advice from other utubers who dont know what their talking about. These boxes DO NOT reduce current to your compressor motor (you really think a motor with the same load now runs the same on a fraction of the current because of a magic box?) B.S. !! It does not make the system last longer(probably the opposite) doesnt reduce your electric bill or any of the other wild claims im reading. Yes it starts quieter, because that box is starving your motor for current over a long period of time until it gets enough to run normally, over heating it and bubbling the enamel off the copper windings and straining the motor. Your system IS NOT designed to start like that. Newer systems using different current modulation schemes like split units do use newer technology like that. But your system can not be converted to a newer system by putting a magic box on it. Dont be fooled by follow the leader utubers that know nothing of what there talking about. Dont install them. 1
I respectfully disagree. While the EasyStart doesn't reduce the running current, it certainly reduces the startup surge current. That can't possibly be harmful. In fact, some RV air conditioners now include this standard. Not sure where you're getting your information.
@@litzdog911 No it doesnt or the motor would never turn. It elongates the timing which is damaging the motor that is not made to start that way., It strains while not getting enough current during that startup period, heating the windings until it finally starts turning, causes the enamel on the copper to melt and solder joints go cold overtime. Hvac guys routinely disconnect these boxes on service calls because of the problems they cause including blowing windings open. The manufacturer will void your warranty for putting one it. Why do you think that is? Those motors are designed to start immediately. Not over much longer periods.
I've used one for 5 years on my work trailer because it runs off generator. It just allows compressor to start up slower instead of that initial pop. No problems and I'm in az so that baby works hard.
My man, in a world where A.I. algorithms are hiding help videos, I'm glad your video slipped through the cracks. The micro-air website gave me every wire diagram EXCEPT for my trane. I found your video, did step by step and it's working perfectly. Got the Bluetooth showing me all the info, too. Much appreciated.
Old news now, but their webpage for A/C models does not show Trane under RV Brand Specific Diagrams, but does show Trane Models (3 Links) under the Home Brand Specific Diagrams. So was it A.I. or possibly the wrong selection? At any rate, old news now and you got what you needed. BTW, I have Trane and did what I wrote above....at first, lol.
I think you sold yourself short Jim. Your first reading of around 61 Amps was with the device installed. Had you taken a reading with a meter capable of detecting inrush current before you installed the device it would have been a lot more than 61 Amps! Probably closer to 100 Amps. Without knowing this number it is impossible to say but I would bet your number for current drop was more like 65-70%. Great job and thanks so much for sharing. Much appreciated!
100%. Came to say this exact thing.
This is probably the second DIY video that I have seen on this topic and I would also recommend changing out the start and run capacitors first if they are showing signs of age like rust/corrosion or low capacitance. Change them out one at a time allowing a couple of run cycles each time to make sure that the system is still functioning correctly before you tie in the Easy Start. Great video presentation. Thank you for sharing this.
Great advice. My start and run capacitors look and tested fine, so I didn't need to replace them.
Nicely done. If anyone watching attempts this upgrade I would recommend exposing more of the wires to reduce strain and to make connections easier.
I have a 4-ton (46,000 BTU) A/C unit. Two years ago I installed a Micro-Air EasyStart 368 (4-ton) Soft Starter ASY-368-X48-BLUE. It now has 26,400 starts. My AC unit now uses 12.8 to 13.8 Amps and a Start Peak of 33 to 36 Amps. I bought it at Global Yacht Supply. It was shipped from Micro-Air.
I was wondering about global yacht. So they are a legit company..
@@TheThesweetgee They were 2 years ago.
@@TheThesweetgee I don't see anything recent on their social media. The address looks like an office. I would stay away.
*TheSweetGee has the clue. When GYS was on 12th Court in Riviera Beach they actually had a legit storefront. Then GYS moved around a bit. As you mentioned, GYS is now an office (Suite F) on US-1 in NPB. Have only one sketchy Yelp review and that Drop-Ship vibe. As every Floridian knows, scammers and flakes abound because new marks arrive here daily. Proving once again, PT Barnum was right. Cheers!*
I thought for a 4 ton you need a x72 not a x48 . How did you made your choice ? I have a 4 ton trane
I have a Trane XL16i, 4 ton unit and just installed the ASY-368-X72- BLUE and my starting amps went from 122 amps down to an incredible 34.7 amps and my running amps are down to 9.3 amps.
I have a 4 ton also and was wondering about doing the x72 instead of the x48. Just in case I upgraded my unit didn't want to purchase another easystart unit.
@@TheThesweetgee your going to have to use the X72. The X48 is only for up to 3 1/2 ton units
Thank you for the great video I’m gonna e-mail micro-air easy start with a pic of my spec sticker on my 3.5 ton carrier unit and go from there.
I installed on my Trane 3.5 ton unit using this video. It runs great on my 13K watt generator now.
Excellent!
What model Trane unit?
XL 15 i
I have the same exact setup. Went from 95 amps to 31. Now I can run the AC with a 15k peak/12k running watts generator
Thanks for posting the video. I also have a Trane XL16i that was installed in 2018 but it's a 3 ton unit and only has one capacitor. Good to see you re-oriented the wire nuts on the line cable to point up -- looks like you had a numbskull tech who installed them down so they could collect water and debris. I'm considering installing one of these devices and when I took off the access panel on my A/C, whoa, a chipmunk (I'm guessing) had built a little nest in there. And the top of my capacitor is rusty - another indication the area behind the panel is open to intrusion.
You have a keen eye! Yes, those wire nuts should have been pointed up. Fortunately the EasyStart is in a weatherproof enclosure, so it could, in theory, be mounted outside. But we get lots of moisture in Seattle, so I'm glad it fit in that compartment.
To add to the discussion. I bought a MicroAir soft starter. Had the company confirm that is was sized correctly and they even verified the connections - run wire, etc. Worked great for 2 months. Then no cold air. House in Florida, in the summer, heating up to 85+. I was out of town, so called my local AC tech and he discovered the run wire connection from the soft start was burned. For a distance of over 6 inches. He rewired the AC and Voila cold air again. I contacted MicroAir and told them what happened. Me being a trusting consumer, I thought they would stand by their product. NOPE! They told me the failure was caused by the heat. You think? Florida, in the summer, DUH! The original run wire worked for 9 years and after reconnecting the AC works fine. There is something wrong with the soft started and they won't admit it or support their unit. BUYER BEWARE!!
That's sad. Micro-Air has a good reputation for customer support. A burned wire might have also been caused by a loose or poor wire nut or crimp connection.
I bought the Flex unit. I noticed a defect on the cover that could compromise the seal. I sent them an email with pictures. They sent me another Flex unit with the same defect only slightly worse. Now I'm on hold with the install.
The starting peak amps without the micro air easy start would be higher than the 61.3 amps you got on the first start. So your savings is going to be more than the 48.3% that you calculated. You can use the nameplate lock rotor amps (LRA) to get a closer figure on your savings. On a 5 ton unit the starting amps is going to be closer to 70 or 80 A without the micro air easy start.
My Trane 5 ton went from above 80 at start to 29.9 after 5 learning runs. Running at 13 amps.
Very good video. Did you happen to check the amps on the Fan? I am curious to know what the fan amps are initially to allow deducting the fan amps from the Total amps prior to installing the Easy Start. That would provide the amps initially by the compressor to allow knowing what the Easy Start is doing with the compressor after installation.
I am considering a similar installation for my Trane outdoor unit with Easy Start 368 Blue unit. Did you contact Trane and ask about using the Easy Start ? I want to know what they said if you did. Thanks for your video - now, what does Trane think of the Easy Start device???
No, I did not contact Trane. My A/C was out of warranty, so it didn't seem necessary.
@@litzdog911 same as me. I was curious what trane people might have to say, if anything. Something like “absolutely go ahead and see how it goes.”
actually, your before and after starting amps are better than you indicate. most ac's start at 80 to 100 amps, so your results are really pretty phenomenal. certainly, this amperage would be able to be started with a 50 amp generator no problem, even with the generator running other essential things on the circuit.
Nice hands show!
Jim, how did you contact MicroAir and send them your pics of your wiring, what procedure did you use?
I reached out to them via their website. Under "Support", select "Contact Us" and complete the information form. They responded in one day.
I have a 2008 model Trane XR13 5-ton unit with an EasyStart installed that the Live Current is between 12 and 14 amps. However, the Last Start Peak fluctuates between 34 and 74 amps. Why the huge fluctuation I don't know, but the EasyStart doesn't seem like it would help my A/C to work with even a mid-sized (9,500 W) generator.
Any issues with the Micro-Air EasyStart 368 Soft Starter (Model ASY-368-X72-BLUE) since posting the video? Really looking hard at the soft start for my 5 ton A/C.
Great video thanks for posting.
No issues. It's working great. The app and Bluetooth connectivity make it easy to verify that it's doing its job.
I'd like to know what is the LRA on your AC unit's label so we can have an idea of how much reduction the micro-air is providing.
Trane 4TTX6060, LRA=118A on the label.
awesome video sir.. what is this app that you are using? pretty nifty
Would adding this void the warranty if something happens to a brand new AC unit?
Great question. That's something you would need to ask your A/C manufacturer. Mine was no longer under warranty, so it wasn't a concern.
I hope you dont mind if I ask a question, I have a 5ton Carrie dual stage blower motor, did they say how to connect that by chance, Does your unit had dual stage motor?
No, my unit does not have a dual stage motor. But Micro-Air was very prompt in sending me wiring instructions, providing excellent support.
You left out so many important details. Attaching the easy start, attaching the butt connector, reading the schematic to determine where the wires would be connected, etc.
Likely cut the in rush current by more than half. Even on that first start it was already working. You would have needed to use a clamp meter to measure the in rush current before you connected the soft starter to truly know what your original in rush amperage was.
Great point. I didn't have a suitable clamp meter to measure the original inrush current. The A/C label indicates LRA=118A, so the EasyStart certainly lowers it quite a bit.
You cant measure modified current from that box with a clamp meter it will give you false low readings.
in your recap - you do NOT remove the black wire - you removed the screw and put the easy start black wire onto that same terminal, and re-inserted the screw.
He’s not a pro. 😏he’s a DIY😎
Easy understand, thank you.
Question.... on the 5 restarts did each one start the compressor? I installed one on my house and the compressor wouldn't start. It was like it didnt have enough entergy. It kinda growled and stopped. So i was afraid it would mess up my system. I pulled the breaker. I took it off and sent MicroAir a letter. They said install it like i did. I was just scared to try it again. Yesterday had a tech out and he serviced the unit snd had him hook it up. Did the samething. He wasnt sure about the EasyStart first time for him also. Did the same thing again. So my question am i to try this no start for at least 5 times? I just dont want to burn my unit up......thank you to anyone that can answer this.....
That's not good. The compressor should start each time. The 5 starts are simply for the EasyStart to "learn" your compressor characteristics to minimize the startup current surge. The sequence should be: 1. thermostat triggers fan to start; 2. a few seconds later the compressor should kick on. Does your compressor start normally without the EasyStart?
@@litzdog911 yes
@@litzdog911 I bought it 2 years ago. Had an accident and couldn't install it. My ac man came out to service the unit and I asked him to install it. He did and it did the same thing.
It's a branch new Youk heat pump 2 years old
@@litzdog911 yes starts fine
Thank you so much!!
What is the second capacitor for? Is it part of the run capacitor or a hard start cap?
It's a switch relay capacitor, not hard start cap.
Must a hard start and should be removed before Easy Start is installed
That’s for the fan
Question for you. I installed my Micro Air Soft Start on my 5 ton about 3 weeks ago. The 5 ton unit is less than 3 years old so it's fairly new. In the heat of the day, I get a "Over Current" fault. It'll be 93+ degrees out when I get that fault. Micro Air says it may be a weak run capacitor...... But I doubt it being so new. They also tell me to have the soft starter to relearn in the heat of the day. That hasn't solved it. Have you ever experienced this with your unit?
Sorry, I have not encountered that issue with my setup.
@@litzdog911 Take it off, you be better off without it. You dont need to have points of failure added to your AC for nothing.
Should I get a 368-72 for my 4 ton a/c?
Yes.
is there any expected reduction in the "running" amps?
Not really. Main benefit is reduction in the starting amperage.
I have the Trane XLi18 4TWX8 which looks very similar to yours. When I looked at the Trane electrical one-line it shows a variable speed fan, so the 240V is directly connected to the fan and then turned on by control wires. I am assuming yours is the same and doesn't cause a problem with switching on the fan first? I sent an email to Micro-Air and they said it shouldn't be an issue. But wanted to ask someone who might have installed it on the same type of CU.
Yours is different. My A/C does not have a variable speed fan. It seems that there are several version of this A/C. But they're right, it should still work fine. The EasyStart helps with the compressor and doesn't do anything for the fan.
But doesn’t the micro-air start the fan first then the compressor?
@@bryantjenks3598 Yes, but it doesn't change the default fan startup, only the compressor.
Why you say first
The orange wire joint with the herm connection
And later you say the orange wire connect on the run point terminal
Connection explained
Or you confused the run with herm cool interesting
I'm not great with colors. That's why I included the exact wiring diagram and showed closeups of the connections. Hope it was helpful.
This would be very helpful if your hands in your body weren't blocking the connections you are making
That's why I tried to be sure to show those connections again, and include the detailed connection diagram.
His hands were in the way momentarily, but you could still see all the connections very clearly! Good job!
At about 70% through Jim does a nice revisit to clearly show where everything goes. My 5 ton Trane looks just like yours Jim. Very helpful vid.
all I see is hands
Yep. Kind of hard to video without my hands there. Hopefully you can see enough to follow along.
I agree with you, but let's give him credit for DYI.
What got me confused is that he first said "to remove the compressor black wire" when in reality he added the black wire instead.
Ninety nine percent of all the videos I watched done by so called professional installers neither one of them moved over the wires or at least cut the wire tie for a better picture.
After all he has done a good job!
Man, that was painful to watch
It still amazes me how installers mount the c/u so close to the wall of the house & how home owners don’t trim back shrubs & plants that are too close to the c/u. Wake up people & pay attention to detail.
Soft starters put on systems not designed for it is not a good thing to do to your AC. They can damage your compressor windings and will definitely void your warranty. Also the electronically altered waveforms coming out of that box cant be measured with a clamp meter, which gives inaccurately very low readings given the illusion that this thing is running your system on far less power which is a farce. Clamp meters can only measure 60hz unaltered current not the proprietary current modulation from that magic box. Dont be a "follow the leader utuber" By listening to people trying to make a buck pushing these things (or bragging about them) not knowing what there talking about getting advice from other utubers who dont know what their talking about. These boxes DO NOT reduce current to your compressor motor (you really think a motor with the same load now runs the same on a fraction of the current because of a magic box?) B.S. !! It does not make the system last longer(probably the opposite) doesnt reduce your electric bill or any of the other wild claims im reading. Yes it starts quieter, because that box is starving your motor for current over a long period of time until it gets enough to run normally, over heating it and bubbling the enamel off the copper windings and straining the motor. Your system IS NOT designed to start like that. Newer systems using different current modulation schemes like split units do use newer technology like that. But your system can not be converted to a newer system by putting a magic box on it. Dont be fooled by follow the leader utubers that know nothing of what there talking about. Dont install them.
1
I respectfully disagree. While the EasyStart doesn't reduce the running current, it certainly reduces the startup surge current. That can't possibly be harmful. In fact, some RV air conditioners now include this standard. Not sure where you're getting your information.
@@litzdog911 No it doesnt or the motor would never turn. It elongates the timing which is damaging the motor that is not made to start that way., It strains while not getting enough current during that startup period, heating the windings until it finally starts turning, causes the enamel on the copper to melt and solder joints go cold overtime. Hvac guys routinely disconnect these boxes on service calls because of the problems they cause including blowing windings open. The manufacturer will void your warranty for putting one it. Why do you think that is? Those motors are designed to start immediately. Not over much longer periods.
I've used one for 5 years on my work trailer because it runs off generator. It just allows compressor to start up slower instead of that initial pop. No problems and I'm in az so that baby works hard.
Any problems so far?
Zero issues. And it's been getting a good workout during our summer heatwave. Much quieter startups without the flickering lights!
@@litzdog911thats why i need one. Excellent vid!