I used your video to install the same Eltwin soft start on my 4 ton American Standard unit. It has a very similar capacitor and contactor layout. Thank you!
It's one of the best explainers on a soft start device. We just installed our GRID TIED solar system and plan to add WHOLE HOUSE battery backup next year I know my 3-ton Lennox with an LRA of 83 amps will need a soft start device to operate from the batteries. I have saved this info for that time. Cheers
I had originally seen another video where they didn't remove that contractor wire but guide says to and it had me confused. I then found your video and it clarified that. Have soft start running now and am excited to get HVAC running off my solar inverter 💪. Thank you
Excellent video--thanks for confirming the need to remove the wire between L2 at the contactor and capacitor C terminal. I'm preparing to install an Emerson SecureStart ("for Copeland Compressors") on a 2.5 ton Lennox heat pump outdoor unit model ML14XP1-030-230 which soft start appears to be identical to the Hyper Engineering version, just somewhat more expensive and (aside from a connection diagram) comes with neither instructions nor a wire/terminal kit. There is not a lot of room to mount the unit inside the Lennox electrical compartment and a dry fit suggests probably the best place for the unit straddles some low profile screw heads on the bulkhead (i.e., not a flush mount). This is not much of an issue but (for me) rules out screwing the base to the bulkhead since I don't know what's on the other side, don't care to find out, hence plan to go with Velcro. Having researched every other aspect of the project and pretty much ready to go I haven't been able to decide on what Velcro product to use. The thicker the better since thick enough would preclude having to drill headspace through the SecureStart base. It seems the Velcro in the video might do. Therefore I would very much like to know what 3M Velcro product you used to mount the SoftStart 🙂
Glad the video was helpful...the Velcro I used is this one: www.amazon.com/SANKA-Reclosable-Fasteners-Outdoor-Acrylic/dp/B08YR5TYZC/ref=sr_1_9?crid=3ECXZUQUOIK7O&keywords=3m+velcro&qid=1701201870&sprefix=3m+ve%2Caps%2C95&sr=8-9
Here's to you! I saw your video, checked the instructions, and sure enough that wire between the contactor and cap was still there! Pulled it all I'd good now!!
This thing is B.S. and junk. They all are. It does NOT reduce anything. Using $50 clamp meters to measure modified sinewaves which fools the meter, and thinking the same motor with the same torque load on it now runs on one quarter of the current, is the findings of a fool.
I guess that you misunderstood something, but I'll help you. The main idea is not reduce the equipment running current but to reduce motor start current. When we start the motor from inercia the amount of power used is always full, that on some cases is almost 5 times the running amps. With a softstart, the system uses an electronic device (usually SCRs) to basically cut the sinewave similar what a dimmer does, but only in the start. After starts the motor will use the same full working amps and power that supposed to be using without a softstarter. This helps people to use AC with generators or RVs, because without this the starting current will always trigger the thermo magnetic protection from the Circuit Breakers. And about the $50 meters, they are not certified but works. I have some fluke meters for professional but some those cheap for home, and comparing measurements is very similar. If you're not a professional and don't want to spend a lot this works better than nothing and you won't be blind.
@@marcelsribeiro Incorrect, the start process uses the SAME amount of amps no matter what. Unless that thing magically generates power. Those meters ARE NOT ACCURATE measuring the output of that device because they cant measure altered sine waves resulting in false low readings making people think they work. Your fluke wont do it either. It must have the capability to track the current phase and timing. You will only find that feature in a lab rated instrument. I understand perfectly. What you dont understand which apparently most on utube dont (and manufactures love it) is that this thing is a "limited use device" Which mean its only good for certain situations. They market it saying everybody should install one and all the hvac guys on here are pushing them. If you cant start an A/C compressor off your generator - you have an under powered generator. How about getting a more capable generator instead of using this bandaid device? Using this thing come with a price, not just to purchase it, it violates any manufactures warranty, and you run the risk of damaging the compressors motor which is not designed to run or start off of modified sinewave current (which your digital meter cant measure). Just what the capacitor puts out - 90 degrees phase lag at 60 hertz.
@RadioRich100 you definitely don't know what you are talking about. Get a Bachelors and Master degree in electrical engineering, and study what happens with your total power when using soft starters. There are a lot of industrial soft starters with many adjustments. We could be using a VFD to do the same, reducing the starting current using the frequency. The difference on this one is that we use that with SCRs that changes the amount of power that we use during the start, cutting one amount of the sinewave in one cycle, and what is used in any dimmer solution all over the world. So you are basically telling that a highly used device in the whole industry doesn't work. General Electric, Schneider, Telemecanique, Danfoss, Siemens, all those brands are all wrong with their engineering team, and you are right saying that they are producing bullshit. 😂😂😂 And about the meter, do you even know what the meaning of RMS reading is? I guess that you need to go to school and stop talking bulshit that you don't know, thinking that you know.
@@marcelsribeiro Ive been to school far more than think and in the indusrty a long long time, and you know nothing of what your talking about or what I have said. Im talking about these add on black boxes that are being sold to consumers - yes there mostly bullshit. It is not possible for a motor to run or start on a quarter of its rated power with the same torque load, thats nonsense.!! If you could find a way to do that you would be rich. I think Ill install one on my car and i will get twice the gas mileage!! And my car will last twice as long! $50 meters CANNOT MEASURE inrush current or voltage after the box changed the phase and timing of the current . These $50 meters people are using is not capable of reading after that box has been installed as the meter needs 60 cycle unaltered current or voltage to work properly. RMS has nothing to do with it which is how I know you dont know what your talking about. Your just another one of these hvac guys who sell them to unsuspecting consumers who think they need them with the promise of lower electric bills, and the system lasting longer and being protected when the exact opposite is more true. I guess Im raining on your money parade, so to you and all other hvac guys selling this crap telling people they need it, I say tough shit!
@RadioRich100 based on everything you said, I understand that you don't know shit. I'm not trying to sell anything. You are a very disrespectful person that think that knows something that you don't have real knowledge. You are talking bulshit. I've never said to anybody buy it. But the thing is that this device reduces the inrush current and is very effective for Generators, RVs or other applications. I can help you if you want, just send me your contact that I can give you a class showing the electrical theories of how soft starters works. I'm not HVAC guy but Bachelor in Electrical Engineering with Masters. I know what I'm talking about, you don't.
I have a westinghouse 7500/9500 and 2.5 ton trips when compressor turns on. Do you think it will fix the problem?
@@gmoney713-r7z not 100% sure if will fix, but it should help
I used your video to install the same Eltwin soft start on my 4 ton American Standard unit. It has a very similar capacitor and contactor layout. Thank you!
I am glad to know the video helped you !
Great vid! Definitely helped my install. How is yours holding up so far? No problems?
It's one of the best explainers on a soft start device. We just installed our GRID TIED solar system and plan to add WHOLE HOUSE battery backup next year I know my 3-ton Lennox with an LRA of 83 amps will need a soft start device to operate from the batteries. I have saved this info for that time. Cheers
Thanks for your comments.....this device is definitely a life saver, now I can run my AC with my generators
Is LRA the in rush or the max? I just got this soft start to be able to handle my new 50a generator.
Great job. Thanks
I think C on the capacitor is powered by the Active terminal.
Great video. Super helpful!
Glad to know it helped !
I had originally seen another video where they didn't remove that contractor wire but guide says to and it had me confused. I then found your video and it clarified that. Have soft start running now and am excited to get HVAC running off my solar inverter 💪. Thank you
Glad to know it helped !
Thanks a ton man! You helped in no small part to getting my soft start running.
my pleasure !...I am glad the video helped !
Thank you! Great video. Helped me to better understand those instructions. About to install mine this weekend! ;-)
Thanks for the comment, glad the video helped !
were you able to run your whole house on that generator after installing this?
Yes...including the pool pump and 2 refrigerators
Running amps increased. If anything should have went down.
More load. The house and/or ambient temperature is warmer.
Excellent video--thanks for confirming the need to remove the wire between L2 at the contactor and capacitor C terminal.
I'm preparing to install an Emerson SecureStart ("for Copeland Compressors") on a 2.5 ton Lennox heat pump outdoor unit model ML14XP1-030-230 which soft start appears to be identical to the Hyper Engineering version, just somewhat more expensive and (aside from a connection diagram) comes with neither instructions nor a wire/terminal kit.
There is not a lot of room to mount the unit inside the Lennox electrical compartment and a dry fit suggests probably the best place for the unit straddles some low profile screw heads on the bulkhead (i.e., not a flush mount). This is not much of an issue but (for me) rules out screwing the base to the bulkhead since I don't know what's on the other side, don't care to find out, hence plan to go with Velcro.
Having researched every other aspect of the project and pretty much ready to go I haven't been able to decide on what Velcro product to use. The thicker the better since thick enough would preclude having to drill headspace through the SecureStart base. It seems the Velcro in the video might do.
Therefore I would very much like to know what 3M Velcro product you used to mount the SoftStart 🙂
Glad the video was helpful...the Velcro I used is this one: www.amazon.com/SANKA-Reclosable-Fasteners-Outdoor-Acrylic/dp/B08YR5TYZC/ref=sr_1_9?crid=3ECXZUQUOIK7O&keywords=3m+velcro&qid=1701201870&sprefix=3m+ve%2Caps%2C95&sr=8-9
Here's to you! I saw your video, checked the instructions, and sure enough that wire between the contactor and cap was still there! Pulled it all I'd good now!!
Hi !, thanks for the comments...yea, it was something I wanted to point out, since it could be missed
What would happen if we leave the wire (between the contactor and cap) there?
This thing is B.S. and junk. They all are. It does NOT reduce anything. Using $50 clamp meters to measure modified sinewaves which fools the meter, and thinking the same motor with the same torque load on it now runs on one quarter of the current, is the findings of a fool.
I guess that you misunderstood something, but I'll help you. The main idea is not reduce the equipment running current but to reduce motor start current. When we start the motor from inercia the amount of power used is always full, that on some cases is almost 5 times the running amps. With a softstart, the system uses an electronic device (usually SCRs) to basically cut the sinewave similar what a dimmer does, but only in the start. After starts the motor will use the same full working amps and power that supposed to be using without a softstarter. This helps people to use AC with generators or RVs, because without this the starting current will always trigger the thermo magnetic protection from the Circuit Breakers.
And about the $50 meters, they are not certified but works. I have some fluke meters for professional but some those cheap for home, and comparing measurements is very similar. If you're not a professional and don't want to spend a lot this works better than nothing and you won't be blind.
@@marcelsribeiro Incorrect, the start process uses the SAME amount of amps no matter what. Unless that thing magically generates power. Those meters ARE NOT ACCURATE measuring the output of that device because they cant measure altered sine waves resulting in false low readings making people think they work. Your fluke wont do it either. It must have the capability to track the current phase and timing. You will only find that feature in a lab rated instrument. I understand perfectly. What you dont understand which apparently most on utube dont (and manufactures love it) is that this thing is a "limited use device" Which mean its only good for certain situations. They market it saying everybody should install one and all the hvac guys on here are pushing them. If you cant start an A/C compressor off your generator - you have an under powered generator. How about getting a more capable generator instead of using this bandaid device? Using this thing come with a price, not just to purchase it, it violates any manufactures warranty, and you run the risk of damaging the compressors motor which is not designed to run or start off of modified sinewave current (which your digital meter cant measure). Just what the capacitor puts out - 90 degrees phase lag at 60 hertz.
@RadioRich100 you definitely don't know what you are talking about. Get a Bachelors and Master degree in electrical engineering, and study what happens with your total power when using soft starters. There are a lot of industrial soft starters with many adjustments. We could be using a VFD to do the same, reducing the starting current using the frequency. The difference on this one is that we use that with SCRs that changes the amount of power that we use during the start, cutting one amount of the sinewave in one cycle, and what is used in any dimmer solution all over the world. So you are basically telling that a highly used device in the whole industry doesn't work. General Electric, Schneider, Telemecanique, Danfoss, Siemens, all those brands are all wrong with their engineering team, and you are right saying that they are producing bullshit. 😂😂😂
And about the meter, do you even know what the meaning of RMS reading is?
I guess that you need to go to school and stop talking bulshit that you don't know, thinking that you know.
@@marcelsribeiro Ive been to school far more than think and in the indusrty a long long time, and you know nothing of what your talking about or what I have said. Im talking about these add on black boxes that are being sold to consumers - yes there mostly bullshit. It is not possible for a motor to run or start on a quarter of its rated power with the same torque load, thats nonsense.!! If you could find a way to do that you would be rich. I think Ill install one on my car and i will get twice the gas mileage!! And my car will last twice as long! $50 meters CANNOT MEASURE inrush current or voltage after the box changed the phase and timing of the current . These $50 meters people are using is not capable of reading after that box has been installed as the meter needs 60 cycle unaltered current or voltage to work properly. RMS has nothing to do with it which is how I know you dont know what your talking about. Your just another one of these hvac guys who sell them to unsuspecting consumers who think they need them with the promise of lower electric bills, and the system lasting longer and being protected when the exact opposite is more true. I guess Im raining on your money parade, so to you and all other hvac guys selling this crap telling people they need it, I say tough shit!
@RadioRich100 based on everything you said, I understand that you don't know shit. I'm not trying to sell anything. You are a very disrespectful person that think that knows something that you don't have real knowledge. You are talking bulshit. I've never said to anybody buy it. But the thing is that this device reduces the inrush current and is very effective for Generators, RVs or other applications. I can help you if you want, just send me your contact that I can give you a class showing the electrical theories of how soft starters works. I'm not HVAC guy but Bachelor in Electrical Engineering with Masters. I know what I'm talking about, you don't.