Oh muh gosh! Tink is here!!!! I wish I was this far along. Shoot, I feel like my shocks are so bad that a sway bar wouldn’t matter. But I’m straight TURD set up lmao. That’s the other Development by Toyota. :)
I also have been waiting for you to do a video using these sway bar disconnects. I cant wait to see your recommendation for the longest travel kit possible using these disconnects AND maintaining the sway bar. It seems like the dirt king, marlin crawler kits all require the elimination of the sway bar. There has to be a new solution now tha these are available where you can now get close to the articulation but still have the sway bar option. Cheers!
I love the concept behind modernizing older Toyotas. I have an '04 4Runner with the v8 and have no plans to buy a new truck. I would happily pay to modify and repair my truck than fork that money over to a bank for a brand new vehicle.
Now that Apex has taken welding out of the install process (it's optional now ...and I should really just learn to weld) I just bit the bullet and ordered a set of these for my 2017 Tacoma. The increased articulation that this sway bar disconnect will provide combined with the Tacoma's MTS will really offset the lack of a front locker in many situations. And $750 for this kit is still less expensive than a front locker and an easier install. Anyone who has taken out the front diff on a Tacoma knows! Now, combine this kit WITH front lockers and you've got an off-road IFS weapon. Thanks for the video. Cheers!
I’ve had the Apex AutoLynx on my Jeep for 3 years. They work flawlessly and are super quick and easy to connect and reconnect. Apex has had great new products come out over the last few years! 👍🏼
It's your first statement that gets me to want to comment. I have to agree with ALOT if your viewers, "it's just too expensive, and I can't afford one of these new ones." The Grenadier especially... Once I heard the name BMW when they talk about it, I KNEW that I wouldn't be able to afford one. Then if I break something on the trail! Yikes. We recently bought a new to us Jeep JLU (2019) and that was still pricey (but it was MINT). But I said to the wife, this will be the last new vehicle we get, cuz it's getting way to expensive. And my usual logic ... Take that monthly payment of something new, and put it into my Jeep ... A 1988 XJ... It would be pretty trick with $800 to $1000 a month put into it! (Everything is way more expensive up here in Canada) ... And as I get older, 'paid off sounds WAY better then Brand New.'
X1000!!!! “Paid off” sounds and IS great. It’s definitely an internal battle to not want the newer, shinier, “better” things. But common sense has to win out. $800 a month in your retirement account will have you a millionaire in 20-30 years easy.
I am going to do a video on the Grenadier soon. I am hopeful they are successful going forward, but I have some issues with them. For the price, it has some hang ups!
Bought and had installed on my 2019 4 Runner orp. Lift Shop in McKinney TX did the work; I was their first...guinea pig I guess. They did have to modify the skid plate for the piston, but other than that no hiccups. BTW, I did have already Ironman Stage 4 Suspension Foam Cell Pro throughout and of course no external reservoirs. With 2.5" lift was able to get 2.5" caster with Ironman uca.
Thanks for your thoughts, install information, and showing how they work. And yes, I agree, thank you! Manufacturers, keep all your hardware metric for a metric vehicle! All my skids come SAE and I generally replace the hardware with metric where I can.
i run the free floating front swaybar links about a decade ago. after ripping CV boots rock crawling in Montana i've been running swaybar'less.. These one's look very interesting and being 2024 i'm astonished that people are still making aftermarket parts for or compatible with the FJ Cruiser...... I will say!! Kings for the win! because if you want to win, WIN WITH THE KING! I'm in New Mexico, i'm getting bored. We'll need to meet up and go wheeling sometime. ~NyNomad, FJ Cruiser Forums
Yeah, we get lucky since the front end just so happens to be nearly identical to the 2nd and 3rd gen Tacoma, as well as the 4runners! I am excited to see more of these systems out there on more vehicles and get peoples inputs on them.
My disconnects shipped out today. I couldn’t find the M14 x 1.5 bolts either. I ordered the bolts you suggested from eBay. Thanks for doing the leg work on that. 👍🏻💪🏻💪🏻
Great video and I'm driving an '07 GX 470 with Dobinson Billet adjustable UCA's Ironman FCP 2.5" lift with no sway sway bar. No sway bar is fine for on road for the most part here in SoCal but it definitely rolls a bit on fwy turns.
I just saw Apex's video they put out detailing the install of the sway bar disconnect. Of course, being semantic, it's not really a true disconnect, but close enough right?😂 It is a big pill to swallow, $750, BUT looking at the product and the engineering and how much is involved, I'd say it's a big step forward and I'm looking forward to purchasing the system shortly and getting it installed. If I watched the video correctly, they did make it so you can avoid any welding if you desire, but riv nutting those brackets to the frame I believe. Which is cool. I already had a buddy that can weld, but now it appears we can avoid that. Looking forward to folks testing these in a technical way, doing RTI comparisons and also how well they hold up over time. It certainly looks like a lot of engineering went into them to make them better than what was available before.
Video started out well but was lacking images as the install progressed, like what it looks like from the side fender well view of the stabilizer shock install, as well as installed without the tire on. To me Apex should offer the parts to work on several of the main aftermarket arm bolt adapters for the same price as the stock one they machined. Why? Because the majority of the FJ’s are already running lifts and are modified. They are the ones spending the money on aftermarket upgrades. IMO🤷🏻♀️
Late to the comments here but great install - also great to see this documented for Apex's R&D. I do wonder if this will work with a beefed up aftermarket sway bar like the RSO or Super Pro 3 position. Maybe even get around the needing to drill the bar with the 3 position? I'm already on board with Tinkerer's Adventures idea of a beefed up rear sway bar (though he doesn't run a front) and with these disconnects, would be fantastic if now a larger sway bar could be run in the front too for better, KDSS-like, highway speed handling.
Let me start off by saying I love that fj shirt I don't have a fj but a 05 4runnner but I'll still rock that shirt lol I'm running no stay bars right now on my 4runner but I want to go back to sway bars I would love to have this kit on my 05 4runner.
I do like the design in how it allows the swa ybar to slide up and down along the link shafts. I wish this was an option for jeep disconnects on a solid axel as it would be nice to not have to wire the sway bar up to the frame when I disconnect.
Haha! Fair enough! It limits suspension travel to make it not have body roll around corners on roads, but limits suspension travel off road. With the sway bar disconnected or removed, the each side of the suspension has more "flex". In the 4x4 world, the longer your tires can stay on the ground, the better.
Seems like a ton of work and it is expensive. I think I would be tempted to just remove the sway bar at the beginning of my trip or when I arrive at the trailhead.
This is an absolute game changer for the older (feels funny saying that 😂..) rigs. Thing about your reviews is that if YOU stand behind it, I know for a fact it’s worthy and absolutely worth it to work with and install. That’s the trust you’ve built brother. 👊 I can’t wait to see these hit the market. And love love love the fab videos you do when you do them. Man, I know these are going to grow in development, but I’m left with soooo many questions! 😂🤦♂️ First and foremost, think they’ll work with gusseted spindles? 🤞 Curious, not that I intend to go the route, but with the rising “portals” craze how they’ll work with those? Are they planning on having a rear disconnect option as well? With your Diamond rear, what are you running for a rear sway? No way factory rear sway fits, is there?! I know it doesn’t for my LC9.5 housing, so I’m forced to spend a pretty penny on a TK1 or AntiRock. Can’t wait to see some numbers and pics/footage of the actual articulation results pre and post connection. Also seeing how easy it is to use in the field. “Protecting companies like these at all costs…” says so much about what you’ve discovered so far. 💪 Man, if I can get my front sway on again and STILL be able to get full articulation capabilities, that would be amazing. (Edit: dang, just saw they aren’t compatible with gusseted spindles. That’s a bummer. Maybe just maybe there’s something that can be done and fabricated custom. Because this would eliminate most folks running 35’s or larger that need and should gusset their spindles.).
I appreciate you trusting my opinion on things man! Its refreshing, as a lot of people think I am just catering to product sponsors. I just tend to take on products I am actually interested in, rather than reviewing stuff I know is junk right off the bat. Usually if I am giving it the time of day on the channel, I have at least a glimmer of hope it will be a good product. Sometimes that's not the case though (Bluetti AC180 review for instance). As for my rear sway, yes its still OEM and yes it needs replaced lol. I don't think a rear disconnect option is on the horizon, but its really not needed. As @TinkerersAdventure found, these IFS vehicles actually flex more with the rear sway bar on, and the front off. My simple monkey brain can't fully articulate it, but Kai sure can.
I believe sway bar bushings are one of very few places that urethane can be used with good results on a 4wd. The reason being, as this video points out, a lot of people will run a sway bar disconnect. Therefore when off road you aren’t suffering from the negatives of the stiffness of the urethane. But come time to reconnect the sway bay. You will have very firm predictable swaybar/antiroll behaviour and performance. Also the ride harshness often associated with urethane bushings is extremely negligible in this application as it doesn’t take much load compared to a shock bushing or control arms. My 2c
Caught the hat 😂. Does it make sense to just cut off the king coilover bracket and weld the bracket (part that holds reservoir) to the frame? Also… if you do this and throw on longer shocks (assuming it will only work with longer shocks), makes sense to put limiting straps to protect CV’s?
SandyCats club! Yeah, you could weld them to the frame if you wanted to save some money. I just know I switch stuff up usually right after I convince myself I never will, and so I avoid going that far typically. The disconnect should provide an advantage even with stock shocks. As far as limiting straps, I don't think you would have to worry about it. Guys with long travel don't need them I don't think and they usually ditch their sway bars. If I am understanding your question correctly?
I am trying to find out what springs and shocks you have in the rear. I could swear I’ve seen one of your videos on that but I can’t find it. If you don’t have one on your rear suspension can you tell me what springs you are running?
rivet nuts on a sway bar mount make me nervous! I literally spun the welded nut inside the frame on my WJ swaybar mount this last weekend. I decided to fab a flag bolt to fish through the frame rather than a rivet nut. I just don't know if it would hold up to the pulling forces exerted on a sway bar. I can 100% be wrong though as I am no engineer!
Great design but simply removing the front bar works well. I'm on a 5th gen 4runner with a rtt and top heavy and once I put on the Adcco rear bar, it feels no different than with the bar.
Yeah the 100 series and 1st Gen Tundra don’t get much after market love. I actually noticed that with my Fj Cruiser for a long time. The Tacoma and 4runner get all the support, because there are most customers to sell to that way.
Do they have one of these for the 4th gen Tacomas? Not all 4th gen Tacomas come with sway bar disconnects, and like everything else Toyota, adding options lessons the likelihood of being able to find a vehicle.
No not yet, but the 4th gen’s are set up better to add an after market system because of the way the suspension is laid out. It will take some time, but I am willing to bet some companies will tackle that.
Need some advice. Just received my KWIKLYNX for my 3rd gen tacoma. Unfortunately I may have to swap out my UCAs, which I love (Icon Delta Joint) because the ball joint thread, which the KWIKLYNX connect to, have an M14 X 2.0 thread and the KWIKLYNX require an M14 X 1.5. So what KWIKLYNX compatible uca option(s) would you consider if you made a switch? Also, suggestions on how to resolve this if I want to keep my UCAs (does Apex offer an alternative? Maybe a different thread optoion swappable part)?
I am curious about this as well, I am having a very difficult time finding M14x1.5, grade 12.9, 120mm bolts anywhere. I have a message in to Apex Design already.
@@IndependenceOverland they won't get a ton of these sold for the 460. The only advantage would be if you're 3 linking the rear or going with RCLT, but for anyone on a mid-travel suspension KDSS is better.
@@smashwindow01 So does that mean that this kit is actually compatible with the RCLT kit? I was under the assumption that the RCLT kit completely moved things around in the front and that there was probably no way this new disconnect kit would actually work with it.
Glad this is moving along, but their customer service is lacking. They never got back to me on my questions or returned my calls/messages. For something this early in development, I would need communication to work out the kinks. Maybe some other time.
The fact that this i is how the spindle is now connected to the upper ball joint is an absolute no!!!! Nord lock washer are not a replacement for crown nut/cotter pins if it ever looses it's initial friction resistance there is nothing stopping it from vibrating loose! Aftermarket stuff at least uses a nyloc nuts while less optimal than crown nut/cotter pins in the end you get almost the same effect.
$750 starting price... I know they are engineered deeply and come with R&D costs. But $750 feels like too much considering how many people would actually buy this if it was cheaper.
Depends on the buyer. $750 is a lot when it's just the parts. That doesn't include the labor installation. He advised most to take it to a shop. I wonder if it would just be better to lose the sway bar all together and get higher end shocks to dampen the body roll. Or go stiffer bar in the rear to compensate like Tinkerer did.
Yeah, the way Toyota designed the front end presents challenges to make it plug and play. They tried without the cylinder, but had poor results from their tests so it became a little bit more in dept.
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A wonderful update. These no longer require welding, they still require drilling though! See the website for updated installation instructions.
Apex Designs Disconnect kwikLYNX Disconnect: www.apexdesignsusa.com/products/kwiklynx
Bolt and Washer kit! Zinc plated coming soon!
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I just watched their video a couple days ago. 🎉
Thanks for doing beta testing for the community!
I know your not a sway bar guy, but the video you could do with this is the one the people are waiting for!
Oh muh gosh! Tink is here!!!! I wish I was this far along. Shoot, I feel like my shocks are so bad that a sway bar wouldn’t matter. But I’m straight TURD set up lmao. That’s the other Development by Toyota. :)
I will be waiting for your thorough in depth testing on this lol
I also have been waiting for you to do a video using these sway bar disconnects. I cant wait to see your recommendation for the longest travel kit possible using these disconnects AND maintaining the sway bar. It seems like the dirt king, marlin crawler kits all require the elimination of the sway bar. There has to be a new solution now tha these are available where you can now get close to the articulation but still have the sway bar option. Cheers!
I love the concept behind modernizing older Toyotas. I have an '04 4Runner with the v8 and have no plans to buy a new truck. I would happily pay to modify and repair my truck than fork that money over to a bank for a brand new vehicle.
I have a few more cool videos on the way for you!
The full coverage insurance on new vehicles factored into the cost makes keeping an older vehicle on the road a no brainer
You, And a lot of old school 4wheelers. Doing the same with my 2005 Tacoma.
Now that Apex has taken welding out of the install process (it's optional now ...and I should really just learn to weld) I just bit the bullet and ordered a set of these for my 2017 Tacoma. The increased articulation that this sway bar disconnect will provide combined with the Tacoma's MTS will really offset the lack of a front locker in many situations. And $750 for this kit is still less expensive than a front locker and an easier install. Anyone who has taken out the front diff on a Tacoma knows! Now, combine this kit WITH front lockers and you've got an off-road IFS weapon. Thanks for the video. Cheers!
I was pleasantly surprised to see welding is optional, thank you for pointing that out for everyone bud!
I’ve had the Apex AutoLynx on my Jeep for 3 years. They work flawlessly and are super quick and easy to connect and reconnect. Apex has had great new products come out over the last few years! 👍🏼
Well darn.....It fits the Tacoma so now I have more things to buy. Thanks for costing me money!
😂 Sorry man!
Super dope! Can’t wait to see more of how this performs in the dirt!
This is such a game changer! I love it when companies see the market value in older vehicle models
It's your first statement that gets me to want to comment. I have to agree with ALOT if your viewers, "it's just too expensive, and I can't afford one of these new ones." The Grenadier especially... Once I heard the name BMW when they talk about it, I KNEW that I wouldn't be able to afford one. Then if I break something on the trail! Yikes. We recently bought a new to us Jeep JLU (2019) and that was still pricey (but it was MINT). But I said to the wife, this will be the last new vehicle we get, cuz it's getting way to expensive. And my usual logic ... Take that monthly payment of something new, and put it into my Jeep ... A 1988 XJ... It would be pretty trick with $800 to $1000 a month put into it! (Everything is way more expensive up here in Canada) ... And as I get older, 'paid off sounds WAY better then Brand New.'
X1000!!!! “Paid off” sounds and IS great. It’s definitely an internal battle to not want the newer, shinier, “better” things. But common sense has to win out. $800 a month in your retirement account will have you a millionaire in 20-30 years easy.
I am going to do a video on the Grenadier soon. I am hopeful they are successful going forward, but I have some issues with them. For the price, it has some hang ups!
@@IndependenceOverland ya, I do definately wish them luck. They do have a super cool machine there
Bought and had installed on my 2019 4 Runner orp. Lift Shop in McKinney TX did the work; I was their first...guinea pig I guess. They did have to modify the skid plate for the piston, but other than that no hiccups. BTW, I did have already Ironman Stage 4 Suspension Foam Cell Pro throughout and of course no external reservoirs. With 2.5" lift was able to get 2.5" caster with Ironman uca.
Thanks for your thoughts, install information, and showing how they work. And yes, I agree, thank you! Manufacturers, keep all your hardware metric for a metric vehicle! All my skids come SAE and I generally replace the hardware with metric where I can.
Yeah me too, that drives me nuts!
didn't see the poll but I'm another older model owner. This is the perfect product for me.
Nice video. That looks like a lot of work. Makes me glad the PW has the built in electronic sway bar disconnect.
Yeah I am glad my new truck will have it built in as well, but I do like seeing after market options!
Yup,i just keep on running my 2007 fj,well used,not pretty! But paid off!
Great review, considering these for my FJ! Completely agree about an aftermarket company opting for SAE hardware on an otherwise Metric vehicle.
Yeah it drives me nuts!
i run the free floating front swaybar links about a decade ago. after ripping CV boots rock crawling in Montana i've been running swaybar'less.. These one's look very interesting and being 2024 i'm astonished that people are still making aftermarket parts for or compatible with the FJ Cruiser...... I will say!! Kings for the win! because if you want to win, WIN WITH THE KING! I'm in New Mexico, i'm getting bored. We'll need to meet up and go wheeling sometime. ~NyNomad, FJ Cruiser Forums
Yeah, we get lucky since the front end just so happens to be nearly identical to the 2nd and 3rd gen Tacoma, as well as the 4runners! I am excited to see more of these systems out there on more vehicles and get peoples inputs on them.
My disconnects shipped out today. I couldn’t find the M14 x 1.5 bolts either. I ordered the bolts you suggested from eBay. Thanks for doing the leg work on that. 👍🏻💪🏻💪🏻
Nice man! You’ll love it. Top tier quality!
Great video and I'm driving an '07 GX 470 with Dobinson Billet adjustable UCA's Ironman FCP 2.5" lift with no sway sway bar. No sway bar is fine for on road for the most part here in SoCal but it definitely rolls a bit on fwy turns.
I just saw Apex's video they put out detailing the install of the sway bar disconnect. Of course, being semantic, it's not really a true disconnect, but close enough right?😂 It is a big pill to swallow, $750, BUT looking at the product and the engineering and how much is involved, I'd say it's a big step forward and I'm looking forward to purchasing the system shortly and getting it installed. If I watched the video correctly, they did make it so you can avoid any welding if you desire, but riv nutting those brackets to the frame I believe. Which is cool. I already had a buddy that can weld, but now it appears we can avoid that. Looking forward to folks testing these in a technical way, doing RTI comparisons and also how well they hold up over time. It certainly looks like a lot of engineering went into them to make them better than what was available before.
Video started out well but was lacking images as the install progressed, like what it looks like from the side fender well view of the stabilizer shock install, as well as installed without the tire on. To me Apex should offer the parts to work on several of the main aftermarket arm bolt adapters for the same price as the stock one they machined. Why? Because the majority of the FJ’s are already running lifts and are modified. They are the ones spending the money on aftermarket upgrades. IMO🤷🏻♀️
Late to the comments here but great install - also great to see this documented for Apex's R&D. I do wonder if this will work with a beefed up aftermarket sway bar like the RSO or Super Pro 3 position. Maybe even get around the needing to drill the bar with the 3 position?
I'm already on board with Tinkerer's Adventures idea of a beefed up rear sway bar (though he doesn't run a front) and with these disconnects, would be fantastic if now a larger sway bar could be run in the front too for better, KDSS-like, highway speed handling.
Let me start off by saying I love that fj shirt I don't have a fj but a 05 4runnner but I'll still rock that shirt lol I'm running no stay bars right now on my 4runner but I want to go back to sway bars I would love to have this kit on my 05 4runner.
I do like the design in how it allows the swa ybar to slide up and down along the link shafts. I wish this was an option for jeep disconnects on a solid axel as it would be nice to not have to wire the sway bar up to the frame when I disconnect.
They make Jeep stuff! That's actually their specialty, they are just now getting into Toyota.
Awesome video. I'm going to call around to see who could install it. 👍🏽 Thanks
If your anywhere need New Mexico, check out Tactical Application Vehicles.
@@IndependenceOverland Actually, I'm in SoCal. We may be moving to ABQ in the distant future. 🤔 I'll place their info in my memos. Thank you, sir. 👊🏽
So drilled a new hole in the sway bar actually increases the sway bar effectiveness when it's engaged? That's cool too.
Love FJs and your skills but I don’t even know what a sway bar does, or why you’d disconnect it. Someone ELi5? 😂
Haha! Fair enough! It limits suspension travel to make it not have body roll around corners on roads, but limits suspension travel off road. With the sway bar disconnected or removed, the each side of the suspension has more "flex". In the 4x4 world, the longer your tires can stay on the ground, the better.
Hey great installation!! How did the different bolt that you had to switch out fit perfectly though? Wouldn’t they be different diameters?
Yes they are very very slightly different, but I ran it through the team at Apex and their engineer said it would be fine. So I put my trust in that.
Seems like a ton of work and it is expensive. I think I would be tempted to just remove the sway bar at the beginning of my trip or when I arrive at the trailhead.
Which would require removing 2 skid plate every time, and then having a place to put a sway bar. Doesn't work for my setup.
Great video.
NICE. but I just looked at the price for a Tacoma $750.00. I get you want to play you got to pay but WOW. As always great video.
It now doesn't require welding, which can help cut costs.
This is an absolute game changer for the older (feels funny saying that 😂..) rigs. Thing about your reviews is that if YOU stand behind it, I know for a fact it’s worthy and absolutely worth it to work with and install. That’s the trust you’ve built brother. 👊 I can’t wait to see these hit the market. And love love love the fab videos you do when you do them.
Man, I know these are going to grow in development, but I’m left with soooo many questions! 😂🤦♂️ First and foremost, think they’ll work with gusseted spindles? 🤞 Curious, not that I intend to go the route, but with the rising “portals” craze how they’ll work with those? Are they planning on having a rear disconnect option as well? With your Diamond rear, what are you running for a rear sway? No way factory rear sway fits, is there?! I know it doesn’t for my LC9.5 housing, so I’m forced to spend a pretty penny on a TK1 or AntiRock.
Can’t wait to see some numbers and pics/footage of the actual articulation results pre and post connection. Also seeing how easy it is to use in the field. “Protecting companies like these at all costs…” says so much about what you’ve discovered so far. 💪
Man, if I can get my front sway on again and STILL be able to get full articulation capabilities, that would be amazing.
(Edit: dang, just saw they aren’t compatible with gusseted spindles. That’s a bummer. Maybe just maybe there’s something that can be done and fabricated custom. Because this would eliminate most folks running 35’s or larger that need and should gusset their spindles.).
I appreciate you trusting my opinion on things man! Its refreshing, as a lot of people think I am just catering to product sponsors. I just tend to take on products I am actually interested in, rather than reviewing stuff I know is junk right off the bat. Usually if I am giving it the time of day on the channel, I have at least a glimmer of hope it will be a good product. Sometimes that's not the case though (Bluetti AC180 review for instance).
As for my rear sway, yes its still OEM and yes it needs replaced lol. I don't think a rear disconnect option is on the horizon, but its really not needed. As @TinkerersAdventure found, these IFS vehicles actually flex more with the rear sway bar on, and the front off. My simple monkey brain can't fully articulate it, but Kai sure can.
I believe sway bar bushings are one of very few places that urethane can be used with good results on a 4wd. The reason being, as this video points out, a lot of people will run a sway bar disconnect. Therefore when off road you aren’t suffering from the negatives of the stiffness of the urethane. But come time to reconnect the sway bay. You will have very firm predictable swaybar/antiroll behaviour and performance. Also the ride harshness often associated with urethane bushings is extremely negligible in this application as it doesn’t take much load compared to a shock bushing or control arms.
My 2c
I appreciate your comment Dylan!
Caught the hat 😂. Does it make sense to just cut off the king coilover bracket and weld the bracket (part that holds reservoir) to the frame? Also… if you do this and throw on longer shocks (assuming it will only work with longer shocks), makes sense to put limiting straps to protect CV’s?
SandyCats club!
Yeah, you could weld them to the frame if you wanted to save some money. I just know I switch stuff up usually right after I convince myself I never will, and so I avoid going that far typically. The disconnect should provide an advantage even with stock shocks. As far as limiting straps, I don't think you would have to worry about it. Guys with long travel don't need them I don't think and they usually ditch their sway bars. If I am understanding your question correctly?
Wish they made some for the tundra
They need to come out with a design for the 80 series LC
This is sweet!
I am trying to find out what springs and shocks you have in the rear. I could swear I’ve seen one of your videos on that but I can’t find it. If you don’t have one on your rear suspension can you tell me what springs you are running?
So cool!!
def cool. i might snag me one
Its a very impressive kit. And they updated it so welding is now optional!
rivet nuts on a sway bar mount make me nervous! I literally spun the welded nut inside the frame on my WJ swaybar mount this last weekend. I decided to fab a flag bolt to fish through the frame rather than a rivet nut. I just don't know if it would hold up to the pulling forces exerted on a sway bar. I can 100% be wrong though as I am no engineer!
Thats a fair point, hopefully it holds up! I bet it would take some serious forces to pull them out.
Great design but simply removing the front bar works well. I'm on a 5th gen 4runner with a rtt and top heavy and once I put on the Adcco rear bar, it feels no different than with the bar.
Are you concerned about the CV angles with the sway bars disconnected?
No, never had a problem without a sway bar so this is no different.
I have uniball Dirt King uppers on the 4th gen 4runner. Can you help determine what I need to get them to work?
Sorry, you will need to call Apex with that kind of stuff. I just simply don’t have the time.
Why are most of these upgrades unavailable for the 100 series? I've been thinking about switching to a 2nd or 3rd-gen 4Runner recently for that reason
Yeah the 100 series and 1st Gen Tundra don’t get much after market love. I actually noticed that with my Fj Cruiser for a long time. The Tacoma and 4runner get all the support, because there are most customers to sell to that way.
Do they have one of these for the 4th gen Tacomas? Not all 4th gen Tacomas come with sway bar disconnects, and like everything else Toyota, adding options lessons the likelihood of being able to find a vehicle.
No not yet, but the 4th gen’s are set up better to add an after market system because of the way the suspension is laid out. It will take some time, but I am willing to bet some companies will tackle that.
The question now is, do I go with these or the AirLynx?
Sucks that it isnt compatible with gusseted spindles
11:44 is the God's honest truth.
Do you know if I need a different bolt for my UCA? I have the SPC UCA for my Tacoma.
Sorry, I’m not that familiar with the SPC.
Need some advice. Just received my KWIKLYNX for my 3rd gen tacoma. Unfortunately I may have to swap out my UCAs, which I love (Icon Delta Joint) because the ball joint thread, which the KWIKLYNX connect to, have an M14 X 2.0 thread and the KWIKLYNX require an M14 X 1.5. So what KWIKLYNX compatible uca option(s) would you consider if you made a switch? Also, suggestions on how to resolve this if I want to keep my UCAs (does Apex offer an alternative? Maybe a different thread optoion swappable part)?
Check Dobinsons out. I like how they are building all sealed systems.
@IndependenceOverland Thx. Thoughts on JBA's HD model?
The link to the bolts say they are 10.9 grade and the instructions say to use 12.9, did you go with 10.9?
That wasn’t in my early instructions I don’t think. Might have to upgrade mine.
I am curious about this as well, I am having a very difficult time finding M14x1.5, grade 12.9, 120mm bolts anywhere. I have a message in to Apex Design already.
Will it work with gusseted spindles?
No, unfortunately not. Their newest/alternative version might but I am not sure.
New drinking game........................drink every time the work "system" is said.
nice job! but way beyond my skill level! LOL 🙃
Yeah it was a bit involved. I love having them though!
You listed these as compatible with the 460, but all 460s came with KDSS.
Read the website
@@IndependenceOverland they won't get a ton of these sold for the 460. The only advantage would be if you're 3 linking the rear or going with RCLT, but for anyone on a mid-travel suspension KDSS is better.
@@smashwindow01 So does that mean that this kit is actually compatible with the RCLT kit? I was under the assumption that the RCLT kit completely moved things around in the front and that there was probably no way this new disconnect kit would actually work with it.
@@lawsonorsak8380I have no idea, but I don’t see any other reason to remove KDSS other than going long travel
Would these fit a Toyota N80 Hilux
Sorry, I’m not sure. If it has the same front end as an Fj Cruiser then yes.
Glad this is moving along, but their customer service is lacking. They never got back to me on my questions or returned my calls/messages. For something this early in development, I would need communication to work out the kinks. Maybe some other time.
Rivet nuts are not good. They'll eventually breake off and cause the bolts to rotate in place. You should weld them in place.
How will this work with Icon ?
Should be no issue at all
Is there a security latch? Can someone just walk up and take your sway bar disconnect
I mean I guess they could if they wanted to. You could replace the holding pins with little locks if thats an issue in your area.
Use review videos coming?
Yes sir
Two things not compatible with aftermarket spindle gussets according to website and they $750
I modified my welded spindles, and it looks like they will work fine once I find this unicorn M14 bolt.
2 bolts to remove sway bar link
2 bolts each side, and that's if they will come off without the joint spinning. And then you have to remove the sway bar itself.
@@IndependenceOverland why? just take one link out job done
OCD is same function is 200 bucks and easy to install 😅
200 bucks turns into 600 bucks pretty fast once they fail and tear up your CV boots. Ask me how I know...
Sold out already???
It goes on sale tomorrow (3/13/24)
why u need 2?
The fact that this i is how the spindle is now connected to the upper ball joint is an absolute no!!!! Nord lock washer are not a replacement for crown nut/cotter pins if it ever looses it's initial friction resistance there is nothing stopping it from vibrating loose! Aftermarket stuff at least uses a nyloc nuts while less optimal than crown nut/cotter pins in the end you get almost the same effect.
The Toyota tax on these is a bummer.
$750 starting price... I know they are engineered deeply and come with R&D costs. But $750 feels like too much considering how many people would actually buy this if it was cheaper.
$750 seems like a very cheap price considering the quality of the parts... they will have no problem selling these once word gets out.
Depends on the buyer. $750 is a lot when it's just the parts. That doesn't include the labor installation. He advised most to take it to a shop. I wonder if it would just be better to lose the sway bar all together and get higher end shocks to dampen the body roll. Or go stiffer bar in the rear to compensate like Tinkerer did.
To be honest it’s an amazing idea BUT many people would find this a bit much. Way too much to install. Needs to be more plug and play
Yeah, the way Toyota designed the front end presents challenges to make it plug and play. They tried without the cylinder, but had poor results from their tests so it became a little bit more in dept.
Whyyy does any aftermarket parts manufacturer use SAE hardware on parts for metric vehicles?? Infuriating.
💯
Or you can just buy a GX or 4Runner with KDSS.
Stepping over a dollar to grab a nickel.
Sweet!!!! more dumb stuff I can waste my money on !!!!
haha sorry!
don’t pay hundreds of dollars for a gimmick
rip your sway bar out
be a man
spend the money on ammo
🤨
If it works with the FJ it will work with the 4th gen 4runner
No thx.