I used to work for an independent garage specialising in high-end Mercedes. The wealthier people are the less they care. That's why on most modern high end cars they have systems, like automatic oil level monitoring and service schedule reminders, to protect the engine from neglect.
Maybe it got sold to a 2nd owner (judging by those god-awful wheels) that had no taste and didn't do maintenance unless there's smoke billowing out from under the hood. Perhaps someone was too broke for a used Escalade and got this instead.
Lot of people who have big bucks usually don't care much about maintenance items on cars. As soon as something goes wrong, they'll most likely just go get another car like it's nothing. Especially if it's got high miles on it. I'veSeen it happen 100 times. It's crazy.😆
It’s a 218k mile gmc that was run out of oil. Engine needs a full rebuild. Not worth it unless someone wants to drive it around consuming quarts of oil as is but that will just cause other constant issues
@@Terminxman I know someone who had a similar issue in a ford pickup, owner before him ran It almost out of oil,oil filter was loose.. he did an oil change, drive it a little bit, changed it again , with some lucas in with the new oil, he still has it over a year later, with 197k on it, knocks, but runs fine,he just got another motor he's building he's running it like it is till the motor he's building for it is done, but he's just kept clean oil and filter in it, changed the coolant, tranny fluid and filter, rear diff fluid, and gave it a full tune up so it would run as good as it could
@@richsweeney1115 by all means if it runs decent and you need a driver then run it till it dies but I'm just saying there's no real "saving" the engine without a rebuild.
Regarding the motor..."I think she'll be okay"! Smoke at startup used to be a valve guide problem but not likely a problem with an engine that age. Given she was run out of oil let her break back in.
The 6.2 has some piston slap when cold, normal. I’d just put some good synthetic oil in it and run it till she goes. Synthetic oil isn’t too expensive these days since most cars require it now.
Full synthetic oils can be purchased at Walmart of all places 5 quarts will run like 20-30 bucks! To expensive, yeah ok when you pay fucking valvoline 100+ fucking dollars for an oil change. Which is something anyone should be able to do in thier driveway. 😒
Exactly, just run it till it's up to temp and let it drain for a good while. Put new oil and additives and go from there. Flushing in a worn out engine is a definite no no!
Depends on the prior history, if it's always been kept up on the oil changes then a flush likely won't harm. If it's been abused and intervals skipped/stretched then it can be a killer.
@@danmackintosh6325 true..but its not worth the risk if you can't verify history. The fact that the current owner let the oil level get that low isn't an encouraging sign, along with its 218k. Doing a flush is just a too much of gamble if you really want to prolong the life of the current engine imho.
@@danmackintosh6325 I've always service my transmission even when people tell me not to never had a problem yet LOL currently have a 2000 Buick LeSabre with 285 thousand miles just hit it today service for transmission with no problem I've had several high-mileage Vehicles service transmission did nothing but make it better but I've heard the horror stories
@@MXguy95 these modern sfi engines dont wear rings and cylinder walls out at 200k too often. Id pull the heads and give this guy a valve job and refresh if the smoking gets worse or doesn’t go away. High mileage oil may help swell up some seals but it probably wont stop if from smoking upon startup. The truck does seem a little neglected overall unfortunately.
Dont flush it !!!! Change it put in 5 30 w oil then see how it sounds if it rattles go to 10 30 w with some lucus . Drop the pan and put rod and main bearings in it so they dont ruin the crank. When you rev it its thumping pretty good
smoke on startup is a valve cover baffle issue, they have issues building up with sludge and sucking oil into the intake. send a couple cans of brake clean down the pcv hoses and flush them.
Man jay listening to you talk is how my folks lived there whole life we did whatever we could to get by and my dad running he’s own businesses to keep us kids feed and we never went with out . I couldn’t have asked for a better child hood . We were below middle class but in the 90s who could tell now today running my own business with more cash flow I run my house hold the same we live like we don’t have it and get by now we have five acres and the kids tare it up with there dirt bikes and running wild . My dad passed three years ago and there isn’t a day I touch my paint brush and can’t thank him enough for teaching me a trade and working with your hands . There is no other way to live in my eyes and I don’t need anything fancy . Maybe I do but I never grew up with it and I’m still here working in million dollar businesses and there asking me questions. Your my favorite channel because your working with your dad and it’s the simple things .. enjoy spending time with your dad man I promise you it goes way to fast . Happy holidays man I’m just going back through old videos to past the time . Sorry for the long rant on a year old video
I don't think anyone is going to believe this story, but I used to have a GMT900 Suburban with the 5.3. One day driving to work I smelled a bit of oil burning. When I got there, I stepped out and noticed it was chattering a bit. As soon as I noticed I shut it off and checked the oil level. It was barely on the stick at all, so I had my dad come drop some oil off. I topped it off before driving home, and I never smelt it again and the oil level never went down again. It had been about 4 months since the last oil change at the time, made it another 7 with no change in oil level and I never added anymore (though I made a habit of checking it often). I had that truck another two years and it never repeated the problem.
your on the right track for the solution. thicker oil, probably wouldn't even flush it, and add a quart of lucas. she will purr like a kitten for atleast a year if the owners keep that up. also I don't know if the pcv valve is built into the valve cover like the 5.3s but if it is that will cause it to smoke and burn oil if clogged
1 you mentioned it was cold outside so that’s part of the smoking on startup. 2 those trucks have issues with the pcv valve in the drivers side valve cover that gets clogged and causes smoking on startup and can cause excessive oil consumption. That’s probably why it’s smoking and why the oil was low.
@@robbie71w agreed I got a 2002 Toyota camera in my yard with 400k on it, my Silverado with the 6.2 has 140k on it I got it with 90k it’s been a pretty good work horse as well.
You never know. It could be something as simple as the technician under filled it alot during the last oil change. That combined with the burning then made her run out....
I had something like this happen. Had a lady with an XV30 Toyota Camry with the 2AZ-FE come in for an oil change. When I go to pull it in, the oil light is on, the thing misfires badly, and it's ticking like mad. Basically no oil left when I checked. She was lucky she didn't blow the poor thing up driving it like that. She also went 50k past the service interval on her plugs and coils, so we changed those too, that fixed the misfire. And believe it or not, she comes in a week later with that car overheating. And we found that there's no coolant in it.
Your words of advisement to shut it down saved what’s left of the engine. Bottom line - it’s showing wear and getting to the end of its life span. If you drain out what you put in - and you see signs of metal - flush it to get out what you can. If it’s clean coming out - just refill with thicker oil to bridge the gaps in the missing tolerances. Opening up the old filter for inspection helps with the crime scene investigation. I’d sticker the windshield with a reminder: check the oil!, the gas will check itself.
cut the old oil filter open to see how much metal is there. Flush it. Refill with 15-40 truck oil. Fix the leaks. Change oil again in 2 or 3K and check filter again.
Back a few years ago my mom had an 04 5.3 burban when I was in tech school. Called me and said my cars overheating so I told her to pull over and stay on the phone. Once she came to a stop I could hear the thing knocking over speaker phone! She happened to pull over in a pretty dangerous spot with a lot of cars flying by in low visibility, so I told her to just drive to my school and we’d figure it out. Long story short it ended up only having half a quart of oil and half the coolant had sprayed out from it overheating. Put 5 quarts of diesel oil in it and topped off the coolant and she ran perfect so noises at all. Can’t kill a 5.3 Chev
That smoke at cold crank is from bad valve stem seats. Oil seeps around the valves into the cylinders and burns when the engine is started. My 6.0 was doing this horribly after 584,000 miles of highway driving and was less than $500 to have the heads redone. You can't kill the bottom end though!
Your plan sounds like a good one but there is one criteria I'd modify. This engine is rated for an SAE 0w20 oil. Given consumption is predominantly when cold I'd pick an oil with a higher initial (cold) weighting first (e.g. SAE 20w20, which is actually marketed as 20 weight monograde oil.) The reason for this is that a higher viscosity oil when hot (e.g. SAE Xw40) is that the volume of oil delibered may not be sufficient to lubricate the top-end. Although it may seem wasteful I'd also go for full synthetic because it has the minimum shear resistance, have the client check the level every day and return within a week. If it's eating the bearings at that point you still have the chance to save it by doing an in-frame main and rod bearing replacement (assuming it's tbe bottom end, always worth checking play on the cylinders before you start.) I wouldn't fix the oil leaks for that first week because if the engine ceases it's money down the drain for the client. Hopefully in a weeks time all you'll find is lovely clean oil in the sump. In frame bearing replacements are a pain to do and very hit and miss. 😅 Love the channel, nice work! 🙂
I think you can save it. I've saved 5.7 aluminum LS's that were worse off than this. I'd check the PCV and maybe consider putting a new one on to see if that helps with the oil burning at startup - it may not be worn rings / valve seals. Had that a couple times myself.
If money's tight, put flush it and run it a while longer. If it blows, you got a little more use out of it. Concerning about the whirring noise and low speed, so that will be expensive to fix as well. If no loan on it, drive it.
I own a Yukon that's identical to this one same color and everything. It now has over 205,000 miles on it and the engine still runs very quietly without any smoke at all. Even at a cold startup, it doesn't tick or tap at all without any smoke. These are very reliable SUVs if taken care of. 👌🏾
Drivers side valve cover change it. The pcv valve is built into it and the new valve cover will have the new updated pcv valve in it. It should stop the oil burning check it out it worked on my truck no more oil burning
I definitely would not flush it. I would drain it, new oil and filter at least 2 times to clean any bearing material out. Then add 10w30 with lucus. Just my 2 cents.
I bet the valve seals got burned up and it most likely has front and rear seal leaks, I would drop the pan, check the bearings, scope the cylinders to see if there is any honing marks left, and replace the valve seals if everything else looks good above.
3500$ for an engine? You thought it was expensive. Chevy Dealership reccomend me a 5.3 engine for 8300$ over an oil fouled spark plug on cylinder 1. I installed a catch can and changed out a spark plug every year. Truck runs excellent and quiet
These are notorious for burning oil. There is an issue with the stock PCV valve location and i believe there is a new designed valve cover that fixes this.... Also do the fuel management delete.
BTW; My Mom had new tires put on,and they used air-impact,and didn't torque correct.They destroyed her wheel bearings.That's what the hum sounds like.Her van had under 50K miles.Since this person already had axles,etc.,I'd check the bearings while it's lifted.
Don't flush it. Could cause more damage than good at this point. Just drain it, move it up to 10w40 and replace a quart of oil with a bottle of Lucas and it'll be as good as it can be. We've been seeing these 6.2s drinking oil once they get over 150k. 10w40-hm and Lucas gets them through a 3k service interval.
Jay, I have a 07 denali with 228000 miles. It has piston slap when cold but goes away when warm. Oil pressure is about 50psi when cold idle and about 30psi cold. Going down the road has about 38psi. I run 10w40. Truck still runs and drives great. Change oil and I think she will be fine. I would not flush it.
Sucks that with over 200k miles nobody was checking the oil periodically on that truck... and no 'low oil' light on the dash?? The shops that did the axles/ball joints didn't bother to check the oil level real quick when they saw the pan leak and blue smoke??
I'd save it.Change the oil filter,run the Cleaner/flush,and it may be ok.It didn't rattle when you revved,and let off,so it should last.It's nice to know there's honest people still.
Normally I would say the variable valve timing clearances would get in the way of putting a heavier oil in. However you don't really have much of a choice so you could probably get a year out of it at least by doing that. I say go for it.
Don’t the flex fuel ones have the cylinder cut off like 2 to 4 cylinders to “save gas” at certain speeds cuz some people had issues and they would start knocking from them sticking and had them tuned and had that program turned off
I had a 6.2 that ticked/knocked when cold from the time it was brand new. My dealer and also GM said that was piston slap when cold and was normal and would not hurt it. It would go away in just a few seconds ,never did seem to hurt anything as long as I had it.
A lot of people fail to check oil, I drive 40 miles a week and weekly I check all fluids. I drive a 2000 Ford ranger that has 324.000 miles on it, burns a quart every 3000 miles
My grandfather tought me well, When his Cadillac got down to a quarter of a tank, we would always go and fill it back up. While the car was refueling, he would check all his fluids, look at the tires, and then clean the windshield off. He did this everytime he filled up. I was young, and remember his Cadillacs always being brand new models. Yet , even then, he always checked at every fill up. And now that I am grown, i do the same!
@@MXguy95 my dad did the exact same thing and he always drove his cars like it’s brand new and it’s the last car he buy. He brought a new car every five years and paid cash too. After he got sick and couldn’t work anymore he had 2 cars, one he drove 184,000 miles until oil pump went bad, he brought a 1994 Ford Taurus and at 80,000 miles he replaced head gaskets twice. Ford had a recall on those cars. Then he brought a new crown Vic 2000 but he never got to drive it as he got sicker and died. I don’t like all the stuff on cars now. I’m 52 and old school, just want the basic and something that looks decent
Very true a motor that has 200,000 miles you need to check the oil inbetween oil changes. It bothers me that "some" women don't know how or unwilling to learn how to check the oil and risk the chance of ruining a good engine.
@@shanegiggie What does her being a woman literally have anything to do with this? If a man did this you wouldn’t have brought up gender but was soon as it’s a woman you do. 🤦🏽♂️
@@justenzo6342 Maybe you should reread my comment. The motor went because it ran out of oil. You need to check it doesn't matter if it's man or woman. Most men know how some women are unwilling to learn how because they want to do everything thereself blah blah blah.
On my truck the slight whining sound started after I had the clutch fan replaced it draws a lot of air, but I do need to check my front diff oil level. My 5.3 chatters a little bit on startup too it's got 200,000 miles too.
40 psi is always common for idle on gm engines. a flush will help clear the little nooks and crannies between gaps and will allow for better flow throughout the engine.
Honestly I would fix any exterior oil leaks like valve cover gasket and check to see if the oil pan gasket is leaking ,make sure drain plug and crush washer is not leaking . I would change the oil and I’d use a good quality high mileage oil / along with a good oil additive may help .
I’d skip the motor flush. Just use some quality high mileage 10W-40 synthetic oil. Also, maybe try substituting a quart for a bottle of stop-leak. If the smoke on startup is the valve guides, the stop-leak might help them.
@@ogalief I've not heard that, mine still works after 200k+ miles. I guess it's still a possibility, but I would think that it would fail safe by continually saying it's low.
@@richsweeney1115 Maybe, I've also got an 08' Yukon Denali with the same motor and 85k miles. I've never had it low enough on oil for the light to come on, so I can't say I've seen how those systems are.
Why flush? Just change the oil and put new gaskets on it. Also, tell them they have to keep a check on the oil. I would not use an oil additive either. If it calls for 5w20 use 5w30 instead.
I would not flush the oil I ran a high mileage oil in a few of my older cars and they quit smoking. I had a 93 honda accord that would smoke out a parking lot when I started it. Went to the Quaker state 10w30 high mileage oil and it quit smoking after a few days of running it and it help to get another 45000 miles on it ending its life at 324000 miles OE motor and transmission
Don't flush the motor. Flushing oil only deteriorates already bad engine bearings, rings etc by making them bone dry. I would recommend that you remove this oil that u put in it alongwith the filter. Put 5 quarts of 20W-50 gasoline oil with a quart of oil additive such as Lucas. Change this oil after 3200 or 3300 miles. The issue will be resolved by then hopefully. My logic of recommending 20w-50 is very reasonable, the engine is 12 years old has 2 hundred thousand plus miles. 20w-50 is super thick oil and older motors get a very prolonged life if it is changed on proper intervals with the oil filter.
Flushing the engine will wash away the burnt marks on the bearings,cause it to hav more clearance,I say put some good synthetic oil in it and send it,maybe she get another 6 months out of it,running one without oil and it a daily driver, not gonna make it much longer..just my two sense..
Personally I would not flush an engine of that mileage. It could end up knocking more as all the carbon build up over the miles builds into the wear if you know what I mean. Flushing it would potentially open up the wear and cause more clatter. Agree with the 10w 40 oil, maybe even a 15w 40, but I think 10w 40 should be fine.
id say it seems like it could be okay with a flush and some thicker oil but it could develop a knock in couple years because of the wear it got from running with no oil. The noise could also be the lifters from no oil seeming how they are hydraulic lifters correct me if im wrong but they do not like running out of oil more than other engines
It's probably using oil. They need to check the oil regularly and add as needed. I would change the oil, use the right grade of oil, and maybe add some lucas. *Most important is that the owner checks the oil regularly!* If damage has been done, you wont save it, but it might buy some time.
Thing is a junker like most of these due to the types of owners. But by all means run it until it blows. “Flushing” it isn’t going to fix anything. I wouldn’t waste money on an engine for it but that’s on the owner
i run 15-w-40 Delo in everything I own, from 2.2 Cavaliers to Northstars to my 6.0 LS, and have yet to have an engine failure or any oil related issues
Pull valve covers and check the rockers to make sure they r all moving like they r supposed to bc I’ve got a 5.3 with a bad cam with lobes that been wiped off and still drive it everyday and I know vehicles with AFM lifters are bad for going out
I can't understand how such an expensive car was maintained so poorly.
I used to work for an independent garage specialising in high-end Mercedes. The wealthier people are the less they care. That's why on most modern high end cars they have systems, like automatic oil level monitoring and service schedule reminders, to protect the engine from neglect.
@@thomas316 I think those reminders are a good idea, in my opinion.
Maybe it got sold to a 2nd owner (judging by those god-awful wheels) that had no taste and didn't do maintenance unless there's smoke billowing out from under the hood. Perhaps someone was too broke for a used Escalade and got this instead.
Lot of people who have big bucks usually don't care much about maintenance items on cars. As soon as something goes wrong, they'll most likely just go get another car like it's nothing. Especially if it's got high miles on it. I'veSeen it happen 100 times. It's crazy.😆
or it was a lease ;)
Always try to save unless it’s useless. That’s the difference between a mechanic and a parts changer Good luck we are pulling for you
It’s a 218k mile gmc that was run out of oil. Engine needs a full rebuild. Not worth it unless someone wants to drive it around consuming quarts of oil as is but that will just cause other constant issues
@@Terminxman I know someone who had a similar issue in a ford pickup, owner before him ran It almost out of oil,oil filter was loose.. he did an oil change, drive it a little bit, changed it again , with some lucas in with the new oil, he still has it over a year later, with 197k on it, knocks, but runs fine,he just got another motor he's building he's running it like it is till the motor he's building for it is done, but he's just kept clean oil and filter in it, changed the coolant, tranny fluid and filter, rear diff fluid, and gave it a full tune up so it would run as good as it could
@@richsweeney1115 by all means if it runs decent and you need a driver then run it till it dies but I'm just saying there's no real "saving" the engine without a rebuild.
I drive things till they die lol
@@chadharmon5716 me too I do that also lol
Dont flush it wil die quickly, just change it, it has good oil pressure leave it alone, use like you say 10w 40
Check the front diff fluid to be safe, that could be the whirring noise you’re hearing while driving
Hadn’t crossed my mind! Glad you mentioned it! I’ll check tomorrow!
I was thinking the same thing...I had a diff that pushed all its fluid out due to a plugged vent. Fresh fluid and a new vent tube fixed it!
Sounds to me like wheel bearings!
Regarding the motor..."I think she'll be okay"!
Smoke at startup used to be a valve guide problem but not likely a problem with an engine that age. Given she was run out of oil let her break back in.
Could be wheel bearings or a bearing in the diff if it's awd
The 6.2 has some piston slap when cold, normal. I’d just put some good synthetic oil in it and run it till she goes. Synthetic oil isn’t too expensive these days since most cars require it now.
Full synthetic oils can be purchased at Walmart of all places
5 quarts will run like 20-30 bucks!
To expensive, yeah ok when you pay fucking valvoline 100+ fucking dollars for an oil change.
Which is something anyone should be able to do in thier driveway. 😒
@@thatfordguy2268 o
That Ford Guy cool
All I can say is don’t flush it with that kind of mileage and already displaying issues you’ll just add to the list of problems.
Exactly, just run it till it's up to temp and let it drain for a good while. Put new oil and additives and go from there.
Flushing in a worn out engine is a definite no no!
You sir are correct.
Depends on the prior history, if it's always been kept up on the oil changes then a flush likely won't harm. If it's been abused and intervals skipped/stretched then it can be a killer.
@@danmackintosh6325 true..but its not worth the risk if you can't verify history. The fact that the current owner let the oil level get that low isn't an encouraging sign, along with its 218k.
Doing a flush is just a too much of gamble if you really want to prolong the life of the current engine imho.
@@danmackintosh6325 I've always service my transmission even when people tell me not to never had a problem yet LOL currently have a 2000 Buick LeSabre with 285 thousand miles just hit it today service for transmission with no problem I've had several high-mileage Vehicles service transmission did nothing but make it better but I've heard the horror stories
In the words of Bob The Builder: YES WE CAN! 😆
Gah that was a great childhood show!
@@MXguy95 It was one of my favorite preschool shows growing up as a toddler in the early to mid 2000s in Chicago xD
I was thinking the same thing when I saw the title
@@MXguy95 You should ask her what gas she puts in it I think these require 89
Bob: cab we fix it?
Bobs wife: no bob, just sign the divorce papers
Puff of smoke at startup could be valve seals and/or worn valve guides if it goes away within a couple seconds.
My thoughts exactly.
@@MXguy95 these modern sfi engines dont wear rings and cylinder walls out at 200k too often. Id pull the heads and give this guy a valve job and refresh if the smoking gets worse or doesn’t go away. High mileage oil may help swell up some seals but it probably wont stop if from smoking upon startup. The truck does seem a little neglected overall unfortunately.
I'd say its fine so long as the owner doesn't list it for sale saying "Runs great, oil changed every 3,000 miles"😂
LOL YES
Dont flush it !!!! Change it put in 5 30 w oil then see how it sounds if it rattles go to 10 30 w with some lucus . Drop the pan and put rod and main bearings in it so they dont ruin the crank. When you rev it its thumping pretty good
BIG fan of Lucas.
I'm with you on this new big end bearings could save it for cheaper and make it Last longer, a bottom end job is the way forward :)
smoke on startup is a valve cover baffle issue, they have issues building up with sludge and sucking oil into the intake. send a couple cans of brake clean down the pcv hoses and flush them.
Man jay listening to you talk is how my folks lived there whole life we did whatever we could to get by and my dad running he’s own businesses to keep us kids feed and we never went with out . I couldn’t have asked for a better child hood . We were below middle class but in the 90s who could tell now today running my own business with more cash flow I run my house hold the same we live like we don’t have it and get by now we have five acres and the kids tare it up with there dirt bikes and running wild . My dad passed three years ago and there isn’t a day I touch my paint brush and can’t thank him enough for teaching me a trade and working with your hands . There is no other way to live in my eyes and I don’t need anything fancy . Maybe I do but I never grew up with it and I’m still here working in million dollar businesses and there asking me questions. Your my favorite channel because your working with your dad and it’s the simple things .. enjoy spending time with your dad man I promise you it goes way to fast . Happy holidays man I’m just going back through old videos to past the time . Sorry for the long rant on a year old video
Running an engine flush will make it worse. Its almost the same logic as flushing a transmission that has never had an oil change
Yeah hows that?
I don't think anyone is going to believe this story, but I used to have a GMT900 Suburban with the 5.3. One day driving to work I smelled a bit of oil burning. When I got there, I stepped out and noticed it was chattering a bit. As soon as I noticed I shut it off and checked the oil level. It was barely on the stick at all, so I had my dad come drop some oil off. I topped it off before driving home, and I never smelt it again and the oil level never went down again. It had been about 4 months since the last oil change at the time, made it another 7 with no change in oil level and I never added anymore (though I made a habit of checking it often). I had that truck another two years and it never repeated the problem.
gmc "denial"
Hjhj
Yes, best trim level.
your on the right track for the solution. thicker oil, probably wouldn't even flush it, and add a quart of lucas. she will purr like a kitten for atleast a year if the owners keep that up. also I don't know if the pcv valve is built into the valve cover like the 5.3s but if it is that will cause it to smoke and burn oil if clogged
Totally agree it sounds good. I drive it til the end. And with that kind of miles change that oil for sure every 3000.
1 you mentioned it was cold outside so that’s part of the smoking on startup. 2 those trucks have issues with the pcv valve in the drivers side valve cover that gets clogged and causes smoking on startup and can cause excessive oil consumption.
That’s probably why it’s smoking and why the oil was low.
I have same 6.2 with 404k miles. I'd flush, fix leaks, and run heavier synthetic.
Holy damn, seeing this makes me feel better because I can never find anything on how long these old school 6.2 engines last.
Best reply I’ve seen. I wouldn’t be opposed to running some 15-40 for 2-3,000 miles after the leaks are fixed.
You're lucky....it's rare you see anything but an import go that long unfortunately. Obviously you maintain it well, but still
...
@@robbie71w agreed I got a 2002 Toyota camera in my yard with 400k on it, my Silverado with the 6.2 has 140k on it I got it with 90k it’s been a pretty good work horse as well.
You never know. It could be something as simple as the technician under filled it alot during the last oil change. That combined with the burning then made her run out....
I had something like this happen. Had a lady with an XV30 Toyota Camry with the 2AZ-FE come in for an oil change. When I go to pull it in, the oil light is on, the thing misfires badly, and it's ticking like mad. Basically no oil left when I checked. She was lucky she didn't blow the poor thing up driving it like that. She also went 50k past the service interval on her plugs and coils, so we changed those too, that fixed the misfire. And believe it or not, she comes in a week later with that car overheating. And we found that there's no coolant in it.
Your words of advisement to shut it down saved what’s left of the engine.
Bottom line - it’s showing wear and getting to the end of its life span.
If you drain out what you put in - and you see signs of metal - flush it to get out what you can.
If it’s clean coming out - just refill with thicker oil to bridge the gaps in the missing tolerances.
Opening up the old filter for inspection helps with the crime scene investigation.
I’d sticker the windshield with a reminder: check the oil!, the gas will check itself.
cut the old oil filter open to see how much metal is there. Flush it. Refill with 15-40 truck oil. Fix the leaks. Change oil again in 2 or 3K and check filter again.
Back a few years ago my mom had an 04 5.3 burban when I was in tech school. Called me and said my cars overheating so I told her to pull over and stay on the phone. Once she came to a stop I could hear the thing knocking over speaker phone! She happened to pull over in a pretty dangerous spot with a lot of cars flying by in low visibility, so I told her to just drive to my school and we’d figure it out. Long story short it ended up only having half a quart of oil and half the coolant had sprayed out from it overheating. Put 5 quarts of diesel oil in it and topped off the coolant and she ran perfect so noises at all. Can’t kill a 5.3 Chev
It's an LS seen them with over 300'000 miles on them. Hub bearings are loud.
That smoke at cold crank is from bad valve stem seats. Oil seeps around the valves into the cylinders and burns when the engine is started. My 6.0 was doing this horribly after 584,000 miles of highway driving and was less than $500 to have the heads redone. You can't kill the bottom end though!
Add “Engine Restore”
Do 2 bottles of the 8 cylinder formula. Stuff works magic on GM engine
I agree!
All GM's or just the newer engines?
Bon ami does the same thing lol
Engine sounds great.
Your plan sounds like a good one but there is one criteria I'd modify. This engine is rated for an SAE 0w20 oil. Given consumption is predominantly when cold I'd pick an oil with a higher initial (cold) weighting first (e.g. SAE 20w20, which is actually marketed as 20 weight monograde oil.) The reason for this is that a higher viscosity oil when hot (e.g. SAE Xw40) is that the volume of oil delibered may not be sufficient to lubricate the top-end. Although it may seem wasteful I'd also go for full synthetic because it has the minimum shear resistance, have the client check the level every day and return within a week. If it's eating the bearings at that point you still have the chance to save it by doing an in-frame main and rod bearing replacement (assuming it's tbe bottom end, always worth checking play on the cylinders before you start.) I wouldn't fix the oil leaks for that first week because if the engine ceases it's money down the drain for the client.
Hopefully in a weeks time all you'll find is lovely clean oil in the sump. In frame bearing replacements are a pain to do and very hit and miss. 😅
Love the channel, nice work! 🙂
I think you can save it. I've saved 5.7 aluminum LS's that were worse off than this. I'd check the PCV and maybe consider putting a new one on to see if that helps with the oil burning at startup - it may not be worn rings / valve seals. Had that a couple times myself.
Geez. More powerful than my 5.7L Tahoe. I'd still save it tho.
Well.... I mean yea. The 4.8 LS makes more power then the old 5.7s these 6.2s are a whole nother animal
Yeah. True. At least the Tahoe still kicks ass for a 21 year old vehicle.
Do valve guide seals to help with the oil burn on the cold start up.
If money's tight, put flush it and run it a while longer. If it blows, you got a little more use out of it. Concerning about the whirring noise and low speed, so that will be expensive to fix as well. If no loan on it, drive it.
I own a Yukon that's identical to this one same color and everything. It now has over 205,000 miles on it and the engine still runs very quietly without any smoke at all. Even at a cold startup, it doesn't tick or tap at all without any smoke. These are very reliable SUVs if taken care of. 👌🏾
Drivers side valve cover change it. The pcv valve is built into it and the new valve cover will have the new updated pcv valve in it. It should stop the oil burning check it out it worked on my truck no more oil burning
Needs a new home. Someone who would take of the old girl.😊
Flush, change oil, and then send it... lol
I definitely would not flush it. I would drain it, new oil and filter at least 2 times to clean any bearing material out. Then add 10w30 with lucus. Just my 2 cents.
I see a video from this guy, I click to watch. Everytime.
I bet the valve seals got burned up and it most likely has front and rear seal leaks, I would drop the pan, check the bearings, scope the cylinders to see if there is any honing marks left, and replace the valve seals if everything else looks good above.
3500$ for an engine? You thought it was expensive. Chevy Dealership reccomend me a 5.3 engine for 8300$ over an oil fouled spark plug on cylinder 1. I installed a catch can and changed out a spark plug every year. Truck runs excellent and quiet
These are notorious for burning oil. There is an issue with the stock PCV valve location and i believe there is a new designed valve cover that fixes this.... Also do the fuel management delete.
BTW; My Mom had new tires put on,and they used air-impact,and didn't torque correct.They destroyed her wheel bearings.That's what the hum sounds like.Her van had under 50K miles.Since this person already had axles,etc.,I'd check the bearings while it's lifted.
Don't flush it. Could cause more damage than good at this point. Just drain it, move it up to 10w40 and replace a quart of oil with a bottle of Lucas and it'll be as good as it can be. We've been seeing these 6.2s drinking oil once they get over 150k. 10w40-hm and Lucas gets them through a 3k service interval.
I'd recommend piston bearing roll, motor honey wont fix the excess clearances caused by oil starvation
Jay, I have a 07 denali with 228000 miles. It has piston slap when cold but goes away when warm. Oil pressure is about 50psi when cold idle and about 30psi cold. Going down the road has about 38psi. I run 10w40. Truck still runs and drives great. Change oil and I think she will be fine. I would not flush it.
Sucks that with over 200k miles nobody was checking the oil periodically on that truck... and no 'low oil' light on the dash?? The shops that did the axles/ball joints didn't bother to check the oil level real quick when they saw the pan leak and blue smoke??
I'd save it.Change the oil filter,run the Cleaner/flush,and it may be ok.It didn't rattle when you revved,and let off,so it should last.It's nice to know there's honest people still.
Damn that is a gas guzzler for sure.
As you say if it lasts another year before needing a new engine then go for it.
Normally I would say the variable valve timing clearances would get in the way of putting a heavier oil in. However you don't really have much of a choice so you could probably get a year out of it at least by doing that. I say go for it.
11:42 lol did you see that weird GMC Envoy go by , one of the ones with the removable roof thing
Oh wow, you’re right. It’s so rare to see the XUV Envoys.
@@97I30T see them all the time here in Cali
Don’t the flex fuel ones have the cylinder cut off like 2 to 4 cylinders to “save gas” at certain speeds cuz some people had issues and they would start knocking from them sticking and had them tuned and had that program turned off
I had a 6.2 that ticked/knocked when cold from the time it was brand new. My dealer and also GM said that was piston slap when cold and was normal and would not hurt it. It would go away in just a few seconds ,never did seem to hurt anything as long as I had it.
A lot of people fail to check oil, I drive 40 miles a week and weekly I check all fluids.
I drive a 2000 Ford ranger that has 324.000 miles on it, burns a quart every 3000 miles
My grandfather tought me well, When his Cadillac got down to a quarter of a tank, we would always go and fill it back up. While the car was refueling, he would check all his fluids, look at the tires, and then clean the windshield off. He did this everytime he filled up. I was young, and remember his Cadillacs always being brand new models. Yet , even then, he always checked at every fill up. And now that I am grown, i do the same!
@@MXguy95 my dad did the exact same thing and he always drove his cars like it’s brand new and it’s the last car he buy.
He brought a new car every five years and paid cash too. After he got sick and couldn’t work anymore he had 2 cars, one he drove 184,000 miles until oil pump went bad, he brought a 1994 Ford Taurus and at 80,000 miles he replaced head gaskets twice. Ford had a recall on those cars. Then he brought a new crown Vic 2000 but he never got to drive it as he got sicker and died.
I don’t like all the stuff on cars now.
I’m 52 and old school, just want the basic and something that looks decent
I have a 08 6.2 denali. Lots of ticks and piston slap. 162k miles. Oil pickup seals go bad and oil pan gaskets. I replaced both on mine.
It’s the seal on the oil pickup tube making it have low oil pressure
Save it my mom 5.3 did that we switch to a high mile oil been running good since
Judging from the looks of the dash, that thing needs more than just oil.
Very true a motor that has 200,000 miles you need to check the oil inbetween oil changes. It bothers me that "some" women don't know how or unwilling to learn how to check the oil and risk the chance of ruining a good engine.
@@shanegiggie What does her being a woman literally have anything to do with this? If a man did this you wouldn’t have brought up gender but was soon as it’s a woman you do. 🤦🏽♂️
@@justenzo6342 Maybe you should reread my comment. The motor went because it ran out of oil. You need to check it doesn't matter if it's man or woman. Most men know how some women are unwilling to learn how because they want to do everything thereself blah blah blah.
@@shanegiggie Again there’s no need to bring up the fact that it’s a woman so you’re literally proving my point.
On my truck the slight whining sound started after I had the clutch fan replaced it draws a lot of air, but I do need to check my front diff oil level. My 5.3 chatters a little bit on startup too it's got 200,000 miles too.
BMWs are bad about the "whining wind" noise after installing new fan clutches, even factory spec BMW replacement ones do it too
Dont risk it, dont flush nothing just change the rod bearings and main bearings and it will be like brand new. Change oil after.
40 psi is always common for idle on gm engines. a flush will help clear the little nooks and crannies between gaps and will allow for better flow throughout the engine.
Me showing up at the local wendys be like:
Save it 6.2 aren't bad give it love
Honestly I would fix any exterior oil leaks like valve cover gasket and check to see if the oil pan gasket is leaking ,make sure drain plug and crush washer is not leaking . I would change the oil and I’d use a good quality high mileage oil / along with a good oil additive may help .
Check the oil daily and drive it until she blows.
Do those head lights while your at it . ✌ save that motor!
I wouldn't flush it. Add some stp and thinker oil then just drive it until it shits it's self.
chage the oil, and check oil level religiously after that. You should be able to drive it for a while yet
I’d skip the motor flush. Just use some quality high mileage 10W-40 synthetic oil. Also, maybe try substituting a quart for a bottle of stop-leak. If the smoke on startup is the valve guides, the stop-leak might help them.
This 6.2s are almost bulletproof. Better maintenance will keep her alive!
My 07 Tahoe LTZ used to tell me when it needed oil so they were just ignoring it because it would have told them when it Needed oil
Even my 02' base model suburban did that, I find it hard to believe that they missed that, unless it was malfunctioning for whatever reason.
I heard somewhere that the oil warning system in those trucks is prone to crapping out
@@ogalief I've not heard that, mine still works after 200k+ miles. I guess it's still a possibility, but I would think that it would fail safe by continually saying it's low.
@@Tracert-mc1hu newer isn't always better,maybe the system is newer than yours and they crap out.
@@richsweeney1115 Maybe, I've also got an 08' Yukon Denali with the same motor and 85k miles. I've never had it low enough on oil for the light to come on, so I can't say I've seen how those systems are.
Why flush? Just change the oil and put new gaskets on it. Also, tell them they have to keep a check on the oil. I would not use an oil additive either. If it calls for 5w20 use 5w30 instead.
I would not flush the oil I ran a high mileage oil in a few of my older cars and they quit smoking. I had a 93 honda accord that would smoke out a parking lot when I started it. Went to the Quaker state 10w30 high mileage oil and it quit smoking after a few days of running it and it help to get another 45000 miles on it ending its life at 324000 miles OE motor and transmission
Don't flush the motor. Flushing oil only deteriorates already bad engine bearings, rings etc by making them bone dry. I would recommend that you remove this oil that u put in it alongwith the filter. Put 5 quarts of 20W-50 gasoline oil with a quart of oil additive such as Lucas. Change this oil after 3200 or 3300 miles. The issue will be resolved by then hopefully. My logic of recommending 20w-50 is very reasonable, the engine is 12 years old has 2 hundred thousand plus miles. 20w-50 is super thick oil and older motors get a very prolonged life if it is changed on proper intervals with the oil filter.
Hey Jay! Definitely worth repairing. Stay warm! :)
Thanks buddy! I’m trying to! Running low on firewood this week haha
Flushing the engine will wash away the burnt marks on the bearings,cause it to hav more clearance,I say put some good synthetic oil in it and send it,maybe she get another 6 months out of it,running one without oil and it a daily driver, not gonna make it much longer..just my two sense..
I think you have a good plan flush , thicken up the oil for the old motor it should be fine.
Definitely worth saving ,not a bad looking unit.👍
Drive it till it blows.
Personally I would not flush an engine of that mileage. It could end up knocking more as all the carbon build up over the miles builds into the wear if you know what I mean. Flushing it would potentially open up the wear and cause more clatter. Agree with the 10w 40 oil, maybe even a 15w 40, but I think 10w 40 should be fine.
id say it seems like it could be okay with a flush and some thicker oil but it could develop a knock in couple years because of the wear it got from running with no oil. The noise could also be the lifters from no oil seeming how they are hydraulic lifters correct me if im wrong but they do not like running out of oil more than other engines
They should put Lucas oil stabilizer in with the oil it will help with the noise
It's probably using oil. They need to check the oil regularly and add as needed. I would change the oil, use the right grade of oil, and maybe add some lucas. *Most important is that the owner checks the oil regularly!*
If damage has been done, you wont save it, but it might buy some time.
I have 08 yukon Denali that had the blue smoke on startup, a updated valve cover fixed that. Fixed oil consumption.
love you jay--!! alarms going to go off - HA!
Thing is a junker like most of these due to the types of owners. But by all means run it until it blows. “Flushing” it isn’t going to fix anything. I wouldn’t waste money on an engine for it but that’s on the owner
I think it's a good idea Jay to flush it and put Castrol 10w-40 oil with additives on it. The start-up blue smoke is typical valve stems seals.
Cold start should be past 40psi but those engines are pretty strong I’d flush it and put 15w40 diesel oil in her and call it a day
i run 15-w-40 Delo in everything I own, from 2.2 Cavaliers to Northstars to my 6.0 LS, and have yet to have an engine failure or any oil related issues
I run 15/40 in my 318 ram. Not a single problem. Only oil with zinc is diesel oil!!!
my friend has a 2011 equinox. thing burns through an entire oil change before 2k miles.
I would fix it in my opinion it still runs strong
I would also say get the DOD delete OBD Chip that might help and shorten oil change intervals
I would drain all the oil and put good 10w-40 in it. I would not flush it
I mean they are fairly nice car to this day, I'd save it if it isn't a HUGE moneypit.
I think it can be saved, it don’t really make that much noise which is huge. My grandma ran her car completely out of oil and it turned out to be ok.
And it’s the 6.2 damn son
Powa Windows. Powa Door Locks. Leather Seats. 😂😂😂
Burning oil is usually the PCV system in those. Its built into the valve cover. Buy s revised cover and i bet no more burn.
Pull valve covers and check the rockers to make sure they r all moving like they r supposed to bc I’ve got a 5.3 with a bad cam with lobes that been wiped off and still drive it everyday and I know vehicles with AFM lifters are bad for going out
And ur lucky mine only runs 20 psi oil pressure at idle and 30 to 40 psi at 3k rpm
Oil pick up tube o ring, they tend to flatten out or crack causing oil pressure fluctuations