I have the 2014 e350 build date 06/13 I get the low dull rattle on start. once I had the sharp rattle for half a second. Just bought the car, so oil and changes unknown. I put Liqui-Moly 10w-40 and ceratec will change in 3k. I don't like engine flush, I have used kerosine years ago, but with variable valve timing...leary. Anyway, I plan to change adjusters, and install check valves if needed. MB dealer said they needed to order coolant tester to test my coolants condition, I can see it is clear amber, looks like mostly water. Info I se says blue or violet. So I'll be doing my own work.
Yea mine had bad rattle but only recently. Was perfect for a few mo after I bought it. Doubt they knew or his anything, they seemed dumb abt the car anyway.
After installing timing chain tensioners I'm getting code P0021 (intake/left bank 2 timing over advance). I may have slipped a tooth on the driver's side intake cam. Would this check confirm that?
this will not be a defective camshaft adjuster, the problem on all those camshafts codes are related to a defective camshaft, the wheel sensor of one of intake camshafts spins a littlet bit and set the timing code
FWIW i read a forum post where a guy held the crank and with a big flat screwdriver through the CPS hole spun back into perfect time the pressed on wheel that slips.
yea, I've seen that too. I've seen dealer videos from techs however, the car is mine and I'm on the hook for any damage. While it can be done, I would not recommend this way.
@@brenth7774 Your videos are so helpful thank you! Please upload that other one you mentioned about being off one tooth - I need it ASAP! Also, how do I know if my 2013 e350 4matic is a M276.9 as you mentioned? Trying to get my camshaft markings on back to line up just right! Also, can you clarify the 40 vs. 53 degrees which is confusing me. What did you use in the end? Much appreciated!
@@kathy268 hey - so 53 degrees is where it's to be checked at. When setting the timing, you want to set at 40 degrees, line the marks on the back of the cams exactly flush with the cylinder heads. I have another video here on marking the cams with the tool. ruclips.net/video/oE1oNZI5mss/видео.html For the transmission, I believe it does but check your vin here: www.vindecoderz.com/EN/Mercedes-Benz - you'll see something like "automatic 722960" under "aggregates". Also let me look through my videos that I have not edited yet, may have some stuff I can upload. I have 2 of these engines so I'll be doing more content going forward on them and some other vehicles.
Nice video, quite on point, appreciate your work👍. Please how do I get these diagrams(or directions) showing the timings and possible torque specs, like the one you pulled up during the checking of the timing?
You would set the timing to the base setting of 40 degrees. This needs to be done with the cam covers off and the timing tools in place. To check the timing, you check it at 53 degrees and look through the eye holes on the cam covers to ensure the cam tone wheels line up where they should.
im so confused because im looking at wis and its saying to check at 40 past tdc. when i did check it at 40tdc its of. i couldnt under stand what i was seeing. i found your video and when i rotated t 53 tdc the timing marks line up. im scared to use wis now lol. do you have a pic of how the timing marks should look like facing the chain tensioners?
Sorry for the late reply. So 40 is where the timing is set and 53 is where you check it. If you check at 40 it will indeed be off. 53 is where you want to confirm the position of the cams in the eye holes on the cam covers. Hope that makes sense. WIS is correct though, the base timing is at 40. I don't have a picture at the moment but they should be in the orientation pointing angles up kind of like it shows in WIS.
I have a 2013 E350. I replaced the left camshaft intake adjuster but in doing so, I spun the camshaft while removing the center bolt. Any tips on resetting the timing on the two left camshafts?
It appears that you may have been 180 out. Did you identify the reluctor plates before removing oil control valve. I'm also assuming you have too much tension in the chain as well even after it's removed
Similar to me, I ended up setting the base timing when that happened. The process is to remove the cover, and then use the timing tool to hold the cams in place while you are able to move them in place to match the marks up.
I'm having an issue 2013 e 350 may have jump time idk can't spin motor over by hand I was driving it just shut off no noise freaking so call german auto mechanic in mobile al said my starter went out 850 two replace it call back later told my engine is seized then he try to buy it I'm confused
I got the same engine m276 my car was leaking bad today I was thinking could it be oil Seperator I’m not no mechanic but I appreciate any one help god blessed
Man, we are working on this exact issue and it seems no matter what we do we cannot seem to get the timing lines up at 53. Right bank looks good but there is nothing we can do to get the left bank close. One tooth either direction for the intake or exhaust camshaft outs everything way off and when we get it close it does not seem close enough. Running condition illicits cam position faults on all four camshafts and yet the engine itself is running perfect. Smoother than it ever has before. What could we be doing wrong?
Hey man, j'ai le même problème que toi sur C 350 CGI 2011 COUPÉ, de temps à temps elle fonctionne parfaitement mais sinon j'ai le même problème que toi, as-tu résolu ton problème ?
mm imo better check the tone wheels on the camshafts. One of mine moved slightly and while it ran good, the timing was off when checking at 53. It's very possible you could be out by a single tooth also but you'd notice it.
Or just cut the overhanging intake cover the jb weld back on sand paint can’t tell , so dissatisfied with Mercedes these days … greedy they designed this flaw ….
This guy knows what he's doing. Great video
haha just enough to be dangerous!
Just bought a 2014 GLK 350 95K mileage looking for maintenance tips - thanks for this one I'll check your others.
nice, yea I have 2 that I will be doing content and maintenance on, we'll see how it goes. Both are daily drivers.
Thanks for sorting my problem
I have the 2014 e350 build date 06/13 I get the low dull rattle on start. once I had the sharp rattle for half a second. Just bought the car, so oil and changes unknown. I put Liqui-Moly 10w-40 and ceratec will change in 3k. I don't like engine flush, I have used kerosine years ago, but with variable valve timing...leary. Anyway, I plan to change adjusters, and install check valves if needed. MB dealer said they needed to order coolant tester to test my coolants condition, I can see it is clear amber, looks like mostly water. Info I se says blue or violet. So I'll be doing my own work.
Yea mine had bad rattle but only recently. Was perfect for a few mo after I bought it. Doubt they knew or his anything, they seemed dumb abt the car anyway.
After installing timing chain tensioners I'm getting code P0021 (intake/left bank 2 timing over advance). I may have slipped a tooth on the driver's side intake cam. Would this check confirm that?
this will not be a defective camshaft adjuster, the problem on all those camshafts codes are related to a defective camshaft, the wheel sensor of one of intake camshafts spins a littlet bit and set the timing code
FWIW i read a forum post where a guy held the crank and with a big flat screwdriver through the CPS hole spun back into perfect time the pressed on wheel that slips.
Can you post a link to that forum post?
yea, I've seen that too. I've seen dealer videos from techs however, the car is mine and I'm on the hook for any damage. While it can be done, I would not recommend this way.
@@brenth7774 damaged cam shaft would require a new one anyway.
Only your exhausts are out by one tooth or 2, intakes are good. Im working on my mine, ended up replacing head gasket too might ss well.
Yea actually I got this sorted. I was half out on both cams, gaining 1 tooth. I haven’t uploaded that one yet.
Bro it should be the way it is for intakes, in the sensor lobe should show half like intakes on 53 degrees
@@brenth7774 Your videos are so helpful thank you! Please upload that other one you mentioned about being off one tooth - I need it ASAP! Also, how do I know if my 2013 e350 4matic is a M276.9 as you mentioned? Trying to get my camshaft markings on back to line up just right! Also, can you clarify the 40 vs. 53 degrees which is confusing me. What did you use in the end? Much appreciated!
@@kathy268 hey - so 53 degrees is where it's to be checked at. When setting the timing, you want to set at 40 degrees, line the marks on the back of the cams exactly flush with the cylinder heads. I have another video here on marking the cams with the tool. ruclips.net/video/oE1oNZI5mss/видео.html
For the transmission, I believe it does but check your vin here: www.vindecoderz.com/EN/Mercedes-Benz - you'll see something like "automatic 722960" under "aggregates". Also let me look through my videos that I have not edited yet, may have some stuff I can upload. I have 2 of these engines so I'll be doing more content going forward on them and some other vehicles.
So 40degress is where I set it to disassemble the chains ? Not TDC?
You didn't put the link on the next video which you mentioned on this video
sorry, got sidetracked. Getting back on it soon.
Nice video, quite on point, appreciate your work👍. Please how do I get these diagrams(or directions) showing the timings and possible torque specs, like the one you pulled up during the checking of the timing?
Seriously am a little bit confused please can you share a diagram showing the timing procedure you used in setting this timing please?
Am waiting for your reply
@@user-fj2dp7gn4j he isnt gonna reply
You would set the timing to the base setting of 40 degrees. This needs to be done with the cam covers off and the timing tools in place. To check the timing, you check it at 53 degrees and look through the eye holes on the cam covers to ensure the cam tone wheels line up where they should.
@@brenth7774😊
im so confused because im looking at wis and its saying to check at 40 past tdc. when i did check it at 40tdc its of. i couldnt under stand what i was seeing. i found your video and when i rotated t 53 tdc the timing marks line up. im scared to use wis now lol. do you have a pic of how the timing marks should look like facing the chain tensioners?
Hi Juan, did you ever figure out which way the marks should face when replacing the secondary tensioners? A lot of conflicting info online. Thank you
Sorry for the late reply. So 40 is where the timing is set and 53 is where you check it. If you check at 40 it will indeed be off. 53 is where you want to confirm the position of the cams in the eye holes on the cam covers. Hope that makes sense. WIS is correct though, the base timing is at 40. I don't have a picture at the moment but they should be in the orientation pointing angles up kind of like it shows in WIS.
@@brenth7774 Thank you for clarifying.
Can you get over 200,000 miles out of those engines???
I have a 2013 E350. I replaced the left camshaft intake adjuster but in doing so, I spun the camshaft while removing the center bolt. Any tips on resetting the timing on the two left camshafts?
It appears that you may have been 180 out. Did you identify the reluctor plates before removing oil control valve. I'm also assuming you have too much tension in the chain as well even after it's removed
Similar to me, I ended up setting the base timing when that happened. The process is to remove the cover, and then use the timing tool to hold the cams in place while you are able to move them in place to match the marks up.
Bonjour et ce matin j'ai une GLK M276 et j'ai pas enlever la batterie avant de demonter les fiches
I'm having an issue 2013 e 350 may have jump time idk can't spin motor over by hand I was driving it just shut off no noise freaking so call german auto mechanic in mobile al said my starter went out 850 two replace it call back later told my engine is seized then he try to buy it I'm confused
Witch is the sensor A bank 2 pease ?
I got the same engine m276 my car was leaking bad today I was thinking could it be oil Seperator I’m not no mechanic but I appreciate any one help god blessed
Man, we are working on this exact issue and it seems no matter what we do we cannot seem to get the timing lines up at 53. Right bank looks good but there is nothing we can do to get the left bank close. One tooth either direction for the intake or exhaust camshaft outs everything way off and when we get it close it does not seem close enough. Running condition illicits cam position faults on all four camshafts and yet the engine itself is running perfect. Smoother than it ever has before. What could we be doing wrong?
Hey man, j'ai le même problème que toi sur C 350 CGI 2011 COUPÉ, de temps à temps elle fonctionne parfaitement mais sinon j'ai le même problème que toi, as-tu résolu ton problème ?
mm imo better check the tone wheels on the camshafts. One of mine moved slightly and while it ran good, the timing was off when checking at 53. It's very possible you could be out by a single tooth also but you'd notice it.
For just replace Cam position sensors, do I need to check the crank degree? Thanks!
No
у него есть шуруповерт?
What size is crank shaft pulley bolt?
27mm
40 or 53
The base timing is set to 40 and you check it at 53 using the eye holes.
Or just cut the overhanging intake cover the jb weld back on sand paint can’t tell , so dissatisfied with Mercedes these days … greedy they designed this flaw ….