The inventor of modern aluminum as we know it debated on both pronunciations and actually chose the North American one, thank you for your understanding in being wrong sir 🫡
Awesome! Reminds me of all the great work done by Craig Luben. As a mechanical engineer who specializes in simulations and lab testing, i sure hope you did dynamic testing as a static load here means nothing... Especilly with brittle materials auch as ice.
Craig was a great guy and did a lot for us ice climbers. The pull results between slow and fast are a lot closer than I expected, there's enough "duration" in a real fall that it's not as aggressive a shock as I would have thought. But if you want to get your lab going on this I'll get some screws and learn something for sure! Static shock load would be very different, and I don't think would be a good test with brittle ice, but love to learn more what you're thinking!
Nice video, enjoyed learning more. The machine used to Load the screws seemed to be applying constant and possibly increasing pull force. In the field wouldn't those forces be more of a dynamic bell curve? What does the fall/climber look like that can create 8+Kn of force that cause the ice to cone and the screw too fail? It doesn't seem like the same thing.
Long time for a reply, but just saw this. The force will be applied much faster for sure, which usually isn't a "good" thing with force on gear, but it's possible to get to an 8kN load on a piece of gear. If the climber takes a hard fall and generates 5kN of force then there will be between roughly 7 and 9kN of force on the screw (climber's rope plus belayer's rope over the carabiner pulley, about 60 percent of the climber's load). A fall factor of 1.5 will do this with a GriGri or locked off belay device. But the bigger picture is that in poorer ice a screw may not hold that much, so we need to place them carefully for max possible strength.
It looked like you were trying to create some 'standard' ice blocks for the testing. Could you give us some of the parameters you controlled in their formation (temp, gas saturation, ...)? Some years ago I kept a freezer food thermometer, and found ice temps near Banff, Canada ranging from -20F-+25F, and hugely different ice behavior, especially when the temperature was changing.
I've only tried to use the aluminum screws once. And they sucked. They were new out of the pack, but I tried to screw them in, and they would not go. The screws instantly ice up at the tip,. So I grabbed my trusty old dull BD Stella screw and it spun no problem. I can't trust the aluminum, so even if they worked better, the weight saving is minimal.
Surprised at how much I learned from this lil edit. Thanks for that. Would love to see more content from y’all.
Nice concise, informative video. I’ll pass it along to friends and students. Thanks!
Great vid! Nice to see you back in action.
Very nice videos. Confirmed my experience. Cheers from France!
Great info! Just a little hint: despite the weird pronunciation in North America, aluminium is still written with that second "I", BD.
The second i is omitted in the US. It isn’t just pronunciation that differs. We also spell sulfur with an f rather than ph. Any other elements?
I did not know that 😮 thank you! I always thought it’s just laziness in every day speech
The inventor of modern aluminum as we know it debated on both pronunciations and actually chose the North American one, thank you for your understanding in being wrong sir 🫡
Americans didn’t invent aluminium.
Inquiring minds wanna know, what’s BD doing with that Crosby bailout hook on the pegboard
Awesome! Reminds me of all the great work done by Craig Luben. As a mechanical engineer who specializes in simulations and lab testing, i sure hope you did dynamic testing as a static load here means nothing... Especilly with brittle materials auch as ice.
Craig was a great guy and did a lot for us ice climbers. The pull results between slow and fast are a lot closer than I expected, there's enough "duration" in a real fall that it's not as aggressive a shock as I would have thought. But if you want to get your lab going on this I'll get some screws and learn something for sure! Static shock load would be very different, and I don't think would be a good test with brittle ice, but love to learn more what you're thinking!
Nice video, enjoyed learning more. The machine used to Load the screws seemed to be applying constant and possibly increasing pull force. In the field wouldn't those forces be more of a dynamic bell curve? What does the fall/climber look like that can create 8+Kn of force that cause the ice to cone and the screw too fail? It doesn't seem like the same thing.
100%.
Long time for a reply, but just saw this. The force will be applied much faster for sure, which usually isn't a "good" thing with force on gear, but it's possible to get to an 8kN load on a piece of gear. If the climber takes a hard fall and generates 5kN of force then there will be between roughly 7 and 9kN of force on the screw (climber's rope plus belayer's rope over the carabiner pulley, about 60 percent of the climber's load). A fall factor of 1.5 will do this with a GriGri or locked off belay device. But the bigger picture is that in poorer ice a screw may not hold that much, so we need to place them carefully for max possible strength.
Great video!
This is cool but I'm sad there was no break test numbers shown I suppose if BD won't do it hownot2 will have to
Good video BD! We got some numbers from our tests in Iceland. ruclips.net/video/Hy_W10xMrCM/видео.htmlsi=-7Fl7gY6grSUve8w
If link doesn’t show up, just type in “ice screws how not 2” and the thumbnail is obvious which one it is
@@HowNOT2 Yeah your link post got flagged, and I can't see it anymore, but we know where to look. Does YT not allow links in comments anymore?
Thnx guys
It looked like you were trying to create some 'standard' ice blocks for the testing. Could you give us some of the parameters you controlled in their formation (temp, gas saturation, ...)?
Some years ago I kept a freezer food thermometer, and found ice temps near Banff, Canada ranging from -20F-+25F, and hugely different ice behavior, especially when the temperature was changing.
I think it's -10C for 48 hours, but can't remember it exactly sorry!
I've only tried to use the aluminum screws once. And they sucked. They were new out of the pack, but I tried to screw them in, and they would not go. The screws instantly ice up at the tip,.
So I grabbed my trusty old dull BD Stella screw and it spun no problem. I can't trust the aluminum, so even if they worked better, the weight saving is minimal.
I use steel ice screws only 😎
So do I.