Can an Ice Tool Leash Hold You?
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 27 фев 2024
- Dave sent me some ice tool leashes that his friend claimed caught him during a fall. He wasn't convinced that actually happened and after dropping 160lbs on these leashes, I'm not convinced either.
👉 Learn and SHOP at www.hownot2.com/shop
👉 Best EMAILS on Earth: www.hownot2.com/signup
👉 SUPPORT US and get gear discounts hownot2.com/support
👉 10% off ROCKY TALKIE by clicking www.hownot2.com/rocky
World's Best Saturday Email Newsletter - www.hownot2.com/sign-up
Get your gear at hownot2.store/
You want the axe to come out and go flying towards you, that way you can cinematically snatch it from the air and tranform its momentum into just enough rotation to let you swing it at the ice wall and catch yourself on one arm. Geez, I've never climbed anything but even I've seen a movie. Lol
If you're interested in real world data I took a lead fall, my very first in 15 years, a couple of weeks ago and the leash did hold.
@@versusgravity but did you even try to save yourself with a mid air spinning axe maneuver? Jk
🤣🤣🤣
@@PuReWiReZ I've been watching a lot of RUclips videos, so I'm close...
That mythbusters logo goes hard. Gotta have your welder make an official nut buster sign
Check out the Black Diamond user instructions for the Spinner Leash. It has artwork of a man falling on his leash, only to have the ice tool impaled in his eye. Probably the best image in any gear user manual.
"Falling" in the story probably was sliding. Which may just be enough to stay below 2kN
Fall on a grivel leash once. Hold my fall. Tool was ahead of my body. While dry tooling. I think grovel leash is rated for 5kn
blue ice also make a rated one that caught me
I have two of the older grivel springy leash, which have a small locking carabiner on the end with "max 780 kg" stamped on it (equals ~7.6 kN) but no rating for the fabric part. I took a sliding factor 1 fall onto the leash on steep snow with my ice axe shaft buried, and it held me. That leash is a little stretched out now but no signs of stitch failure, carabiner works fine. Probably wasn't more than a kN or 2.
@@Govanification yeah my blue ice boa is also permanently stretched a little.
Ditto for my grivel leash
I love the mythbusters parody! wonderful information and comedy all in one. Thanks Ryan & team!
Theres a whole world of space between gently hanging on your leash, and anynif the falls in your test.
I fell on an ice took leash a few month back on an alpine mixed route. Leash snapped almost immediately. Broke the pommel off my tool. I do think leashes are a necessity on hard alpine routes so you don’t drop a tool still
Fell on Sunday. Leashes held, had it clipped to my side loops . Hurt my side but leashes were fine. They were very dynamic leashes. Also was on top rope.
Ice axes stayed in ice
Living for the Mythbusters callbacks
I've always wanted to see a video testing tethers...love it bro!!!
most guides recommend having the tool leashes connected to the rope and not to you when following... so the tools don't get spring launched into your face.
This is really good advice. Also seems to make slightly less of a cluster with 2 leashes.
Well you still have to consider that some alloys of steel break lower when they are cold (-20c) to (-60c), alumimium dosn't have that property. The way they normally test that is by the notch cut punch experiment.
I want the eye on an Ice axe tested, considering that you can build emergency anchors with it.
I have a Petzl Sum'Tec in front of me. The eyelet in the spike looks at least as strong as a bolt hanger. So I’d say >20kN.
Very interesting results. Was also suprised by the last test
Can you break test those utility carabiners that have a rating? DMM makes ones with 4kN.They're not meant for climbing but a friend wants to know if they could be used to extend small nuts which have a rating below that anyway :)
we're going to need an MBS on that cardboard sign at the end
Are they breakaway? In the ARB industry we have tool leashes that are designed to fail if the chainsaw gets stuck in a falling piece of wood. Some of them even have warnings not to use with certain weight saws since dropping the saw into the leash by itself is enough for it to break away
Guy i need your opinion, is useing the Petzl evolv ajusust as leash a good idea for quick resting ?
I fell on my dmm spinner leash with dmm XSRE carabiner and it held on one axe with no problem
Friend of mine had a soft Fall and the leash Held him. Still scary if the Tool pops out. I only use leashes on easy multi pitches or north faces
Love the CAD Busted sign lol
I had a tether catch me on the auto belay in the gym. I was using a Furnace Dry ice tool pro.
That was really annoying.
Now I yank tools free if I pop at the gym.
That’s why you should attach the tools to the rope or autobelay-sling not to your harness
@@DVHdrytooler yet, I must try to remember that! Thanks
....why haven't we seen the drop tower in a while...?
He moved away from the area and it takes several hours to drive to the drop tower, that combined with now running his own store makes it hard to justify the time when a tree will suffice.
How much time did you invest in the busted scene at the end? I would probably spend more time with trying to get that right than with the actual test 😂
The Mythbusters style is great!
what happened to the drop test tower?
Where is the drop tower?
What ever happened to the drop tower?
An idealised factor 0 fall (ie. no slack in the rope, you only fall due to the stretch, and the rope functions as an ideal spring) gives you a peak acceleration of 2g, so if you were doing anything more than factor 0 it isn't surprising you were getting more than 2kN. 2g with 160lb would have been 1.4kN. It looks like you were getting between 3g and 4g. With a rigid weight on a static leash, even a small fall could easily generate that.
I fell on a BD leash, it held (barely) the carabiner was bent open but it didn't break
I did too. Mine broke at the carabiner pretty quick
With nearly 3kn, I believe it - humans are very squishy compared to the falling block
So - keep the slack out of your ice system.... (Ice isn't all that strong, if you only have a bigwall-hook in it...)
Can you test what happens if you hit the rope you are hanging on with a ice pick?
I had to lower someone who hit the rope, tool through the core. Rope was fine for lowering, but we removed that section. It was a really interesting coreshot, tiny hole.
Pit Schubert (legendary alpine safety guru at the German DAV) did a study years ago with people stepping onto ropes with crampons. If I remember correctly the only noticeable degradation occurred when it was with brand new, honed (super sharp) competition crampons, all others were effectively too blunt to actually cut any substantial amount of core fibers. Pretty sure it is similar with ice tools. There is a huge difference though if the rope is loose (so the fibres can basically move out of the way) or under substantial tension (more likely for the core to get cut) -- fortunately if you are making moves with your ice tools you're most likely climbing and there will be some slack in the rope.
I'm with @CFEF44... though -- any rope section that has been subjected to such abuse is best removed.
You should test this on a real ice axe. I'm pretty sure the carabiner would break at lower forces. I've seen it.
Yep. I fell on one and it broke at the carabiner
6kn and the carabineer becomes an ice hook
before I watch the actually video, I really hope it does not hold my body weight cuz I don't want my tools come flying at me if i whip lol
The home made leash looks like it could be adapted for a nut tool leash 🤔
Never reccomend falling on Ice Tool Leashes.. they will come after your face 😅.
How not to bust….baseball.
who even climbs with tethers anymore? no one i know.
Alpine routes or long multipitch where a dropped tool could be catastrophic.
@@Govanification that's what i climb. i climb w a spare tool. i haven't dropped a tool for 25 years.
A rigid mass (despite being industry standard) is a really poor model for a human body, I don't think we can say the myth is busted.
Yeah the wabble of a body means a slump is well under 2k. A static weight and static tether can really creat big forces