I first surfed in 2001. I've been crap at surfing since then. This year, I went to Cimaja 4 times and didn't improve, so, frustrated, I booked Padang Padang Surf Club, Bali. After 2 sessions (and tips I couldn't see), I scored more waves than in 4 weeks at Cimaja. I spent 15 days in Bali this time, and I got so much better.
Also fair to say that in the surfing, the Ocean rules, that is that some times the Ocean won't allow me to catch waves or pass out the back, knowing to discern when it is my technical mistake that can be improved and when it is the Ocean which doesn't allow, is crucial to keep motivation up and maintain a realistic perception of myself related to the skills of surfing. In other words, there will be times when the conditions are not optimal and no matter what, the Ocean won't allow me to catch waves and I don't need to be hard on myself when that occurs and adjust accordingly when the cause is my technique and not the conditions of the Ocean. J. J. Florence once said something in a video that really proved to me the NEED to be humble when face to face with the Ocean and this meekness makes a great part of those who excell in what they do. Before paddling in on a big swell, he wondered, "would the Ocean wash us all out to the shore and shame us in front of all these people?", he is always aware, even given his great skills, that the Ocean IS BOSS.
I am a newbie and maybe this is why but ive been careful to stay humble. The waves are powerful and every day they show me - dont bite more than you can chew. Some days i am literally happy to be alive and eat post surf meal. And to your point - the ocean is the boss - when you get tossed into the foam and youre trying to gather yourself and go back through the incoming waves, and you keep fighting the waves and youre out of strength and you want to cry because you just overcame one wave but another one is coming too soon - thats where you know the ocean has no agenda for you - it simply has its way- and if you dont like it, this doesnt matter. You either find the strength to find that last bit of energy to go toward that wave to get over the break and finally rest or you will get swept farther toward the shore. Choice is Always yours in his game.
I learned surfing to be better than my brother, but after months of training, i slowly fell in love with the sport and the feel of the ocean as you surf
I wouldn't recommend a longboard after a foamy..it's hard to turn, can be dangerous in a crowded lineup and is usually very expensive. I'd recommend surfing a foamy until a step up/down to a Malibu oder thick mid length is possible
I agree with this as well. If there’s any beginners reading this… if your wave count is getting higher and higher on a foamie and you’re able to start turning it. I’d recommend a pin tail round nose egg in the range of 6 6 - 7 6. The round nose makes the board stable and catch waves easier. The pin tail allows you step on the tail and turn it aggressively. The size will depend on how often you surf, how much you weigh, and what your goals are. Work with your local shaper or local shop to get the dimensions sized properly. Cheers!
@@drewscatterday8020 hello, I have been surfing on a 9” foamy for a while and want to progress to mid length foamy. People keep telling me to start with 9”6 longboard first so I don’t get bad habits surfing a foamy. Any tips on this?
Naturally i developed all these points before I felt I needed to change the board. They are actually happening in the same order shown here. Although i followed the point on the volume of the board which i now know it is extremely important to the speed of the progress.
Just got a 7 foot Ben Gravy foamy board. My experience level is novice body boarding. I held my own at tarantulas on the west coast on a 6 foot day. My level of snow boarding is pretty good but not pro. I love hitting air, riding switch, back side 270s, and riding as fast as my more advanced friends at mthigh. Now days I’m on the east coast with this new board. The surf breaks different here. I’m gonna keep monitoring the surf reports and working it. 🤙
Hi. Where in costa rica? I would love to find you and learn. I'm going in August for my 2nd trip this year and this is my goal to start riding. Never been on a surfboard just body board and skateboard for years. Please let me know any information 🙏🏾
Guys I need your advice on getting my first board! So I'm a beginner and I surf on 6.6-7ft softboards (foamies) that I rent from the local surf club. I'm thinking about getting something like a 6.6 funboard, but I've never tried a funboard before, so I have doubts with deciding if the fun is the right board for me. I did try a shortboard, and it was too small and difficult to surf, but i also want to progress from the foamies. What's your opinion?
Hey Lior! A 6'6' fun board sounds like a pretty good option. However, as you transition from a beginner to an intermediate surfer, it is important to understand how to pick surfboards according to your weight, your surfing level and the surfing conditions you will surf in. We always emphasise that "foam is your friend", and see far too often surfers going straight to smaller boards, which can actually ultimately harm your technique and progression process. It sounds like you could firstly benefit from watching our "Surfboards For Intermediate" course. This will help you gain more knowledge about why some surfboards characteristics can help you progress ,while others can slow you down drastically. We hope this helps you make the right decision buying your first surfboard. You can find the course here: tutorials.barefootsurftravel.com/courses/surfboards-for-intermediates/
Hello, im 5’6 190lbs . I was bodyboarding today and someone told me to try his surfboard .and just use it as a bodyboard . And holy shit I was catching more than ever 😭😭😭. He told me I should get a 8ft . But some people say 7ft. Which should I get ?
We recommend to start off bigger. Foam is your friend! The more waves you catch, the quicker you learn, the faster you progress. You want a high wave count. Start on the 8ft , get confident, finesse your technique, and work your way down.
Im definitely useing my knees to much. They so red and bruised up. Thought this was just part of it and would learn to deal with it lol. Next time in out in definitely useing knees less
the test for the pop up tecnhique no one can pass using the floor of his home due to the impulsive reaction of the body mechanics to touch the toes even slightly before take off the floor
So I have caught a lot of waves with foam long board and I think I am ready for a shorter board but for a shorter board I want one which can basically glide and help learning tricks so my questions are what board do I need and how do I know when to transfer from long to shortboard?
Hey Sanvi, thanks for reaching out! Choosing the right board and transitioning to a shorter board can be overwhelming, and often tricky to know where to start and what board to choose. One mistake we see far too often is beginners going too small, too soon. This ultimately harms your progression and will not do you any favours. It is tricky for us to know what board you may need as we have not seen you surfing. However, a great place to start would be for you to perhaps develop a deeper understanding of different types of surfboards and how they will affect your surfing. The free course below on "Surfboards For Beginners" will help you gain more knowledge about why some surfboards characteristics can help you progress while others can slow you down drastically. tutorials.barefootsurftravel.com/courses/surfboard-types-for-beginners/ Another tip we can recommend to you is learning more about surfboard dimensions. Check out the free article below for a better understanding! tutorials.barefootsurftravel.com/articles/surfboard-dimensions-length-width-thickness-foil/ As for knowing when to transition from longboard to shortboard, we generally don't jump straight from a long foam board onto a short board. The course and article above should give you a clear indication of what board you should be riding to suit your level. Remember: The 3 most crucial factors when choosing your surfboard comes down to your weight, your surfing level and the surfing conditions you will surf in. I hope this helps. Please reach out if you have any further questions!
You might want a mid-size fiberglass or epoxy "fun" board in the 7'-8' range. Some call these mini-mal's for mini-malibu longboard. There are boards with more of the foam up front for easy paddle and increased wave count yet they can carve nice turns.
None of this is wrong but what's missing is understanding how to catch and ride waves. Standing on a surfboard use to be considered a trick. While standing leads to more things it's not principle to surfing.
have you tried surf skate? This year I was learning to surf and got an advise to buy surfskate. For the winter I bought it as a trainer. I think its a great thing.
My coaches advice - dont look down at your board!! if you see that your nose of the board is going underwater, that means you were looking at it! And thats why u failed
@@LaggerSVK yes now im better at surf and big difference was to keep watching the wave as i paddle until the second before i know im gonna take it, and then second thing to keep paddling hard even when i feel the wave is taking me. Lots of people myself included stop peddling too soon, my coach said take extra 2-3 paddes cause ur still on top of the wave and need to get in front of it. Overall surfing is a blast and jesus its thrilling and those waves go up in size and velocity fast!!
Hope fully Interested WATER💦💧ups with yours 🏄and potential ....keep s RIGTH by graduated🌅🌄🌅💟 ALL☑️ Best of SURF Agreements Nationality Sports Water since Really Your☑️😉🎊😆❣️🏄
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🏄🏻 Want to bring your surfing to the next level?
Get started for FREE now!
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❤
I first surfed in 2001. I've been crap at surfing since then. This year, I went to Cimaja 4 times and didn't improve, so, frustrated, I booked Padang Padang Surf Club, Bali.
After 2 sessions (and tips I couldn't see), I scored more waves than in 4 weeks at Cimaja.
I spent 15 days in Bali this time, and I got so much better.
Also fair to say that in the surfing, the Ocean rules, that is that some times the Ocean won't allow me to catch waves or pass out the back, knowing to discern when it is my technical mistake that can be improved and when it is the Ocean which doesn't allow, is crucial to keep motivation up and maintain a realistic perception of myself related to the skills of surfing. In other words, there will be times when the conditions are not optimal and no matter what, the Ocean won't allow me to catch waves and I don't need to be hard on myself when that occurs and adjust accordingly when the cause is my technique and not the conditions of the Ocean. J. J. Florence once said something in a video that really proved to me the NEED to be humble when face to face with the Ocean and this meekness makes a great part of those who excell in what they do. Before paddling in on a big swell, he wondered, "would the Ocean wash us all out to the shore and shame us in front of all these people?", he is always aware, even given his great skills, that the Ocean IS BOSS.
Yeah, mother ocean will humble even the best surfers out there! Can never get too cocky or complacent.
Sitting here watching this vid cause the wind blew out the waves
I am a newbie and maybe this is why but ive been careful to stay humble. The waves are powerful and every day they show me - dont bite more than you can chew. Some days i am literally happy to be alive and eat post surf meal. And to your point - the ocean is the boss - when you get tossed into the foam and youre trying to gather yourself and go back through the incoming waves, and you keep fighting the waves and youre out of strength and you want to cry because you just overcame one wave but another one is coming too soon - thats where you know the ocean has no agenda for you - it simply has its way- and if you dont like it, this doesnt matter. You either find the strength to find that last bit of energy to go toward that wave to get over the break and finally rest or you will get swept farther toward the shore. Choice is Always yours in his game.
Best surf channel
Agreed! Quality is top notch.
I learned surfing to be better than my brother, but after months of training, i slowly fell in love with the sport and the feel of the ocean as you surf
Your videos helped me a lot in transition from beginner to intermediate, especially the cobra pose and over the shoulder look. Thank you so much 🙏❤️
I wouldn't recommend a longboard after a foamy..it's hard to turn, can be dangerous in a crowded lineup and is usually very expensive. I'd recommend surfing a foamy until a step up/down to a Malibu oder thick mid length is possible
I agree with this as well. If there’s any beginners reading this… if your wave count is getting higher and higher on a foamie and you’re able to start turning it. I’d recommend a pin tail round nose egg in the range of 6 6 - 7 6. The round nose makes the board stable and catch waves easier. The pin tail allows you step on the tail and turn it aggressively. The size will depend on how often you surf, how much you weigh, and what your goals are. Work with your local shaper or local shop to get the dimensions sized properly. Cheers!
@@drewscatterday8020 hello, I have been surfing on a 9” foamy for a while and want to progress to mid length foamy. People keep telling me to start with 9”6 longboard first so I don’t get bad habits surfing a foamy. Any tips on this?
@@whchang3265 We think this will help you make the right decision... tutorials.barefootsurftravel.com/courses/surfboards-for-intermediates/
What about a funboard?
@@davidrivas6412 yeah funboard, Midlength, egg all kinda the same thing sticking to the 6’6” - 7’6” range like guy said above
Hi Tom here in Ireland been surfing for many years , that’s a fantastic instructional video well done .
Thanks, Tom! Super happy to hear you found it useful.
Always quality stuff here.
Excellent tips, thank you soo much🏄♀️
Thank you all, this video/analysis help me a lot to understand several things, I had an incredible session this morning, Saludos amigos 🤙🏽.
Awesome! Happy to help. Thanks for the positive feedback 🫶🏾
Naturally i developed all these points before I felt I needed to change the board. They are actually happening in the same order shown here. Although i followed the point on the volume of the board which i now know it is extremely important to the speed of the progress.
You guys are great!
Awesome video. 🎉 do you or anyone else recommend any good , beginner breaks in Thailand?
I really enjoy your videos! Love your Channel!
super helpful video!
Just dropped a video about VANS PIPE MASTERS in Hawaii 🤙🏼
Great, will try! 😎🤙🏽
Just got a 7 foot Ben Gravy foamy board. My experience level is novice body boarding. I held my own at tarantulas on the west coast on a 6 foot day. My level of snow boarding is pretty good but not pro. I love hitting air, riding switch, back side 270s, and riding as fast as my more advanced friends at mthigh.
Now days I’m on the east coast with this new board. The surf breaks different here. I’m gonna keep monitoring the surf reports and working it. 🤙
This is helpful 🌊🏄♀️
Love it!
What a great channel!
What song was in the background of this video? Pretty chill :)
Brilliant tutorial.
where are these long slow waves being filmed!? great locations and conditions it appears
Great another backpacker turned professional surfer
Thanks for the tips 🤙
Thanks for the videos, i really like them by the way! Yeew!
Hi. Where in costa rica? I would love to find you and learn. I'm going in August for my 2nd trip this year and this is my goal to start riding. Never been on a surfboard just body board and skateboard for years. Please let me know any information 🙏🏾
Amazing video.
🙏
Thank you very much for explaining ❤️🤙🌊
Los mejores!
Guys I need your advice on getting my first board! So I'm a beginner and I surf on 6.6-7ft softboards (foamies) that I rent from the local surf club. I'm thinking about getting something like a 6.6 funboard, but I've never tried a funboard before, so I have doubts with deciding if the fun is the right board for me. I did try a shortboard, and it was too small and difficult to surf, but i also want to progress from the foamies. What's your opinion?
Hey Lior! A 6'6' fun board sounds like a pretty good option. However, as you transition from a beginner to an intermediate surfer, it is important to understand how to pick surfboards according to your weight, your surfing level and the surfing conditions you will surf in. We always emphasise that "foam is your friend", and see far too often surfers going straight to smaller boards, which can actually ultimately harm your technique and progression process. It sounds like you could firstly benefit from watching our "Surfboards For Intermediate" course. This will help you gain more knowledge about why some surfboards characteristics can help you progress ,while others can slow you down drastically. We hope this helps you make the right decision buying your first surfboard. You can find the course here:
tutorials.barefootsurftravel.com/courses/surfboards-for-intermediates/
@@barefoot_surf Thank you I really appreciate it 🙏
Hello, im 5’6 190lbs . I was bodyboarding today and someone told me to try his surfboard .and just use it as a bodyboard . And holy shit I was catching more than ever 😭😭😭. He told me I should get a 8ft . But some people say 7ft. Which should I get ?
We recommend to start off bigger. Foam is your friend! The more waves you catch, the quicker you learn, the faster you progress. You want a high wave count. Start on the 8ft , get confident, finesse your technique, and work your way down.
@@barefoot_surf I got the 8ft! It comes Friday !
Im definitely useing my knees to much. They so red and bruised up. Thought this was just part of it and would learn to deal with it lol. Next time in out in definitely useing knees less
Great video!
Muy interesante y fantástico a mis 58 puedo intentarlo a nivel recreativo?
Gracias
Si claro
These waves are perfect where is this shot?
Nicaragua!
Great!
Are you guys have a place or surf camp in Bali??
We do in the mentawais! Book via out website. Still a few spots left for this November!
Nice
the test for the pop up tecnhique no one can pass using the floor of his home due to the impulsive reaction of the body mechanics to touch the toes even slightly before take off the floor
So I have caught a lot of waves with foam long board and I think I am ready for a shorter board but for a shorter board I want one which can basically glide and help learning tricks so my questions are what board do I need and how do I know when to transfer from long to shortboard?
Hey Sanvi, thanks for reaching out!
Choosing the right board and transitioning to a shorter board can be overwhelming, and often tricky to know where to start and what board to choose. One mistake we see far too often is beginners going too small, too soon. This ultimately harms your progression and will not do you any favours. It is tricky for us to know what board you may need as we have not seen you surfing. However, a great place to start would be for you to perhaps develop a deeper understanding of different types of surfboards and how they will affect your surfing. The free course below on "Surfboards For Beginners" will help you gain more knowledge about why some surfboards characteristics can help you progress while others can slow you down drastically.
tutorials.barefootsurftravel.com/courses/surfboard-types-for-beginners/
Another tip we can recommend to you is learning more about surfboard dimensions. Check out the free article below for a better understanding!
tutorials.barefootsurftravel.com/articles/surfboard-dimensions-length-width-thickness-foil/
As for knowing when to transition from longboard to shortboard, we generally don't jump straight from a long foam board onto a short board. The course and article above should give you a clear indication of what board you should be riding to suit your level. Remember: The 3 most crucial factors when choosing your surfboard comes down to your weight, your surfing level and the surfing conditions you will surf in.
I hope this helps. Please reach out if you have any further questions!
You might want a mid-size fiberglass or epoxy "fun" board in the 7'-8' range. Some call these mini-mal's for mini-malibu longboard. There are boards with more of the foam up front for easy paddle and increased wave count yet they can carve nice turns.
what locations are these surfers in?
🎉🎉🎉
None of this is wrong but what's missing is understanding how to catch and ride waves. Standing on a surfboard use to be considered a trick. While standing leads to more things it's not principle to surfing.
Learn the surfing etiquette rules! Don't drop in anybody! Don't paddle out if you can't surf!
I want to try to surf.
I skate so it seems fun plus I love nature and the ocean
We welcome you to join us with open arms 🤗
Great ultimate satisfaction. I'll dm
have you tried surf skate? This year I was learning to surf and got an advise to buy surfskate. For the winter I bought it as a trainer. I think its a great thing.
❤
Nice game
When would you be having a retreat in Costa Rica on 2025?
January- March!
👏👏👏👏👏😄
My coaches advice - dont look down at your board!! if you see that your nose of the board is going underwater, that means you were looking at it! And thats why u failed
my coach told me: Use your beautiful eyes! Use it to check the wave until last moment and then use it to look where you want to go.
@@LaggerSVK yes now im better at surf and big difference was to keep watching the wave as i paddle until the second before i know im gonna take it, and then second thing to keep paddling hard even when i feel the wave is taking me. Lots of people myself included stop peddling too soon, my coach said take extra 2-3 paddes cause ur still on top of the wave and need to get in front of it. Overall surfing is a blast and jesus its thrilling and those waves go up in size and velocity fast!!
This is from someone who has never surfed.
Hope fully Interested WATER💦💧ups with yours 🏄and potential ....keep s RIGTH by graduated🌅🌄🌅💟 ALL☑️ Best of SURF Agreements Nationality Sports Water since Really Your☑️😉🎊😆❣️🏄
𝐩яⓞ𝓂𝓞Ş𝐦 👊
Nice game