Did you use the 19” solid steel wheels from cooks? I was going to go that route but we’re more expensive. Now that I know the mill works so we’ll I would really like to go with the cooks wheels.
I have to apologize some goofball has they’re finger in the way the whole time of the camera. I was just trying to make a quick video to try and answer some questions and didn’t watch the whole thing and uploaded it. Now that I sat down to watch it I will have to do better next time for sure.
I was so intrigued by the video and your commentary that I didn't notice the rogue finger for a while. When I did, I just gave a laugh and kept on watching anyway. It's great to watch a video where someone knows how to fix problems which show up in home made gear. 10 out of 10 Paul.
Heck, Whats a finger among friends ! Didn't bother me at all . Thanks for the great video, I've really learned a lot , and I know it takes abit of work recording an producing vids, I'll take a finger anytime!!
For the cable system, being that its only on 1 side do you find that it wants to twist torque the saw unit from left to right? I've never seen anyone build this w/ cable system. Usually they are chain drive. I feel like either way i'd wanna do tandem so that both sides are pulling in sync. But i also wanna build a wider mill to do say up to ~50" slabs Hopefully next year i can start on my build once i get setup on new property.
That’s awesome. The whole head unit is so beefy that it doesn’t tweak at all. But I was very concearned of it being built strong enough as to not jerk while sawing. Which can happen with each tooth trying to bite. I’m glad I went over board kind of to make sure it was strong. And the cable was an after thought because of how heavy the head unit is to push. And I haven’t even been quick to get to the power feed because this works so well. Someday though I will.
Great vid, I learned a lot , so thank you. I think I almost understand the tensioning system , would it be too much to make another vid about it? Sorry, I'm such a bonehead, couldn't quite see the spring detail and underneath detail.
Absolutely. I would like to take apart the system which isn’t hard and give some close up shots of it. So I’ll get on that. I hope this is helping. Thank you for watching.
I’m sorry I never put together another video yet of the close up of the tension system. I will see how my week goes and try to get that done. Once you see it more I think it will maybe make more sense. But I for sure am very happy with how it works over all. The spring back up is just awesome with getting quality lumber out of it. And the vibration is lower.
I'm having a hard time understanding the blade tensioning system as well. the jack extends which compresses the springs but doesn't the jack prevent the springs from extending enough to keep pressure on the blade?
I absolutely would consider helping someone! This was joy for me to make and every time I use it I’m amazed it all came together and works good without a bunch of tinkering. To make another one now would be some much easier than the first one.
Question: have you ever solved or even had the problem of a cant under tension and bow on you? I’m sure … we all have….but clamping to prevent movement is problematic… any suggestions?
Yes my suggestion to that is to cut your can’t a bit over sized as your cutting not so much in your width but the height as your cutting down through the cant. And as you get at the pith or the center to them flip the log and cut off the bow. Like 1/2” then start taking of your boards whatever they may be. 4/4 or whatever. This is where having a scale that is movable comes into play. Say if you were wanting 12” wide boards and 12 boards to come off the can’t which would be somewhere in the range of 12” plus 1/8” times 11 cuts. If that makes sense. The scale is set at 1 1/2 at the 1” mark so that when you flip the cant you then set the scale at 1” at the 1” mark and you will be removing 1/2” price first. And usually it is 1/2” at ends and 1/4” in the middle from tension. If this didn’t come across with any sense I would be happy to make a video explaining it. Thanks for watching.
I also wanted over and over great build
@@shelbyadams9955 thank you very much. We enjoy it for sure.
Great videos! I watch them over&over -learn somthing every time!
That’s great to hear Joel. I did the same thing when I built this mill with videos. I hope it helps. Thank you for the nice comment.
I also retrofitted my sawmill with the cooks wheels…awesome. Changed my whole mill to a new level.
Did you use the 19” solid steel wheels from cooks? I was going to go that route but we’re more expensive. Now that I know the mill works so we’ll I would really like to go with the cooks wheels.
@@PaulWhitedWoodStoneIron yes 🙂
I have to apologize some goofball has they’re finger in the way the whole time of the camera. I was just trying to make a quick video to try and answer some questions and didn’t watch the whole thing and uploaded it. Now that I sat down to watch it I will have to do better next time for sure.
I was sooo watching the video I never saw any finger. When I round up enough info I will be building a saw.
I was so intrigued by the video and your commentary that I didn't notice the rogue finger for a while. When I did, I just gave a laugh and kept on watching anyway. It's great to watch a video where someone knows how to fix problems which show up in home made gear. 10 out of 10 Paul.
@@newenglander4513 that’s quite a compliment thank you very much.
Heck, Whats a finger among friends ! Didn't bother me at all . Thanks for the great video, I've really learned a lot , and I know it takes abit of work recording an producing vids, I'll take a finger anytime!!
@@ewell7763 haha that one made me chuckle. Thanks for that.
would love to see a quick video more in depth on your lifting system and a little short one on your guide arm
cheers
Thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Good job on homemade bandmill.
Thank you. I appreciate that.
For the cable system, being that its only on 1 side do you find that it wants to twist torque the saw unit from left to right? I've never seen anyone build this w/ cable system. Usually they are chain drive. I feel like either way i'd wanna do tandem so that both sides are pulling in sync. But i also wanna build a wider mill to do say up to ~50" slabs
Hopefully next year i can start on my build once i get setup on new property.
Great build btw. Very well thought out. I'll be borrowing several idea's from yours.
That’s awesome. The whole head unit is so beefy that it doesn’t tweak at all. But I was very concearned of it being built strong enough as to not jerk while sawing. Which can happen with each tooth trying to bite. I’m glad I went over board kind of to make sure it was strong. And the cable was an after thought because of how heavy the head unit is to push. And I haven’t even been quick to get to the power feed because this works so well. Someday though I will.
Great vid, I learned a lot , so thank you. I think I almost understand the tensioning system , would it be too much to make another vid about it? Sorry, I'm such a bonehead, couldn't quite see the spring detail and underneath detail.
Absolutely. I would like to take apart the system which isn’t hard and give some close up shots of it. So I’ll get on that. I hope this is helping. Thank you for watching.
That would be GREAT!@@PaulWhitedWoodStoneIron
I’m sorry I never put together another video yet of the close up of the tension system. I will see how my week goes and try to get that done. Once you see it more I think it will maybe make more sense. But I for sure am very happy with how it works over all. The spring back up is just awesome with getting quality lumber out of it. And the vibration is lower.
I'm having a hard time understanding the blade tensioning system as well. the jack extends which compresses the springs but doesn't the jack prevent the springs from extending enough to keep pressure on the blade?
If someone had all the materal but wasn't good at getting things to line up would you ever consider helping someone else build a mill?
I absolutely would consider helping someone! This was joy for me to make and every time I use it I’m amazed it all came together and works good without a bunch of tinkering. To make another one now would be some much easier than the first one.
@@PaulWhitedWoodStoneIron do you have a Facebook that I could talk to you on?
Question: have you ever solved or even had the problem of a cant under tension and bow on you? I’m sure … we all have….but clamping to prevent movement is problematic… any suggestions?
Yes my suggestion to that is to cut your can’t a bit over sized as your cutting not so much in your width but the height as your cutting down through the cant. And as you get at the pith or the center to them flip the log and cut off the bow. Like 1/2” then start taking of your boards whatever they may be. 4/4 or whatever. This is where having a scale that is movable comes into play. Say if you were wanting 12” wide boards and 12 boards to come off the can’t which would be somewhere in the range of 12” plus 1/8” times 11 cuts. If that makes sense. The scale is set at 1 1/2 at the 1” mark so that when you flip the cant you then set the scale at 1” at the 1” mark and you will be removing 1/2” price first. And usually it is 1/2” at ends and 1/4” in the middle from tension. If this didn’t come across with any sense I would be happy to make a video explaining it. Thanks for watching.
Don’t they make a flange bearing that is self aligning?
I’m not sure really but I would like to research that now thank you.