I needed to find out about Loctite. Luckily RUclips recommended this. Excellent explanations that even those with zero knowledge will understand. The best explanation there is out in RUclips Land.
I felt weird not knowing what locktite to use and where. Now all my questions and the questions I didn't know I had are answered. Thanks for an awesome explanation!
"Hi! Im some rando internet dude in a garage ... so lets talk about history, science and anaerobic thread locking sealants". Im sold Honestly clicked on this video expecting some dude to say "use the blue one, it tastes nice". Never expected a master class in science history. Colour me impressed.
@@PetesGarage You are very welcome. Its brilliant that you give people the information that they need, and throw in some entertaining background education too.
WOW that was a brilliant explanation of the differences in loctite and their applications, so thank you very much Pete 👍🏼 especially the wicking top tip 😊
Great info. I just put a water pump in a Grand Prix 3.8l engine, went to buy thread sealant for the water pump bolt threads but all they had at the auto parts store was thread locker/sealant. The thread locker was blue so I used it, but all I really wanted was the sealant. Thanks Pete for another great video.
Awesome Pete! Thanks! Glad you gave a little mention to the thread sealer too. I'm in the camp of using thread sealer when putting anything threaded into a passage that has oil or coolant on the other side, rather than a thread locker. Like the just replaced oil sending unit on my 1996 Jeep. The new one came with some red stuff on the threads, no idea if that was a sealer or a locker. I used Permatex white thread sealer. BTW, the failed one that came out (aftermarket part installed about 16 years ago) had no signs of any sealer or locker visible, and no sign of oil leaking past threads either.
The thread sealer works great! More and more OEM's are providing fasteners with some kinds of sealer or locking patch on the threads. It's probably not a good idea to put anything on top of the factory applied stuff. I can't imagine any manufacturer using thread sealers in 1996.
@@PetesGarage Add no more? Oops, maybe next time :) The failed sending unit was installed around 2002/2004 ish Walmart broke off the factory original while changing my oil, cost them about $145 to replace it. I used the white Permatex that doesn't harden. BTW, I would not use the home plumbing thread sealer on an engine. Maybe superstition on my part, but I am sticking with it.
Great video! One thing you didn't mention is that loctite can help keep a nut from rusting onto a bolt as bad. I've used it for that on a lot of farm equipment parts that I don't want to use anti seize on
Pete you are a walking book of knowledge. Been using lock title for years ( red or blue ) in the aircraft industry but never knew the particulars about it. Great idea to change it to wicking. How many times do we put a fastener together and say damn forgot the locktite. Thanks buddy for sharing your knowledge Artie 😊
Thanks for this video Pete... I had no idea it had a shelf life of 1 year! There goes a one time used application of Blue gel locktite from my tool chest!
You can extend the life considerably by putting it in the freezer...due to low humidity. For safety related hardware I always make sure I use stuff that's not expired.
Thanks for sharing the history as well. Had no clue locktite and superglue were older than me. Great info. A video explaining how engineers on an engine determine the torque requirements is something I've always wondered about.
It's older than me too.....lol. Determining torque is not that difficult. There are standard charts and tables for almost every fastener and material. Do a web search for Recommended Torque Charts and you'll see tons on them. It's all based on the material, thread engagement area, and desired clamp load.
Good informative vid Pete. One important tip that you may not have mentioned is to shake your loctite tube before applying. I come from the Harley world and have been using Permatex Blue threadlocker, which can be used in all applications calling for a Blue. This way i don't have to get separate Blues from Loctite (242/243.) Bummer that all this stuff expires after a year. When Red is called for, we use the 262 because our bolts are under 3/4", and the H-D service manual specifically calls for 262.
Recently replaced Cummins ISX-15 camshaft which does not use a key . It has a tapered shaft which has a final torque of 109 ft. lbs . Used Loctite 609 (green )after cleaning oil residue from camshaft and gear . Use ether or Brake Klean to remove oil residue before assembly . Great Information ! 7/2022
You are right about tourk being the primary fastener but the best reason is if a bolt or nut does come loose it will keep it from coming completely off and getting into moving parts and causing complete destruction of whatever it happens to be in. The best tip i heard from this is using the alcohol to make it draw down into the threads. Great video thanks.
Solid info as always. I didn't know about the expiration date or wicking Loctite. On the topic of Loctite, if you are working on a Harley especially an older single cam Harley almost every bolt should get at least Blue Loctite and driveline stuff Red. I recently bought a 98 Road King with a 113 Evo and the previous owner/ builder did not use any that I can see and the bike is literally falling apart as it goes down the street.
I get many questions about Loctite so I thought I'd share with everyone. Yeah, that Harley problem is just bad engineering. Imagine owning a Harley before Loctite was available.
Really useful info, and loved the tip on making your own wicking loctite. Any advice on how to (or whether it’s advisable to) clean dirty threads prior to applying loctite?
Ive used the green loctite retaining compound as well... i think it was 680... used it on a spun pinion bearing and it worked. Not a super legit thing to do but sometimes thats how it goes. Good tip on the wicking loctite.
Nice video, I have been using 3M TL71, which I guess is the same application of Loctite 271. I always think, better safe than sorry with thread lockers
Pete, as always, great video. Like the tip with the alcohol. In aerospace, they use bolts/nuts with holes and tie them with wire for the secondary fastening. Pricey, but cheaper than a plane falling out of the sky...lol. I actually have a David Brown tractor that uses wire on the bolts for the timing gears. Are certain penetrating oils better at breaking Loctite than others or is heat your only option?
Thanks Troy, there are quite a few secondary retention methods, maybe I'll do a video on them. I use PB Blaster, works pretty well. Acetone can dissolve Loctite.
I use Loctite to prevent loosening from vibration but also to prevent rust locked bolts. It prevent rust on the thread... trust me, It saved me tons of time while reparing my suspension and brakes
3:03 I have occasionally had suspension parts come back out, despite proper torque. This is why I loctite suspension parts before I torque them to final specifications. I have seen OEM shock bolts with blue stuff on a few threads, so I suspect that some suspension components were treated with Loctite at the factory. 4:25 I prefer the Loctite tape so much, I don't even buy liquid Loctite if I can avoid it. I did not know that Permatex threadlocker used the same color codes as Loctite. That is a good thing to know, since I often have to go where there is Permatex brand goods, but no Loctite/Henkel brand goods.
Suspension parts are good spots for Loctite. You will get some OEM bolts with Loctite patches on them. Permatex kinda jumped on the Loctite bandwagon. No need to confuse everyone with different colors.
I’ll mostly agree with your statement about not needing Loctite when working on a car. The engineer generally determines a torque spec to provide a particular amount of tension which also causes high friction between the threads and thus locks the bolt in tight. However, I have found that adding it to any pass through bolts on the exterior may significantly improve serviceability (think exhaust studs and bolts).
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge ! I would like to know if ethanol would do the trick to make a wicking threadlocker or if i absolutely need IPA?
Very informative. Just a question. Im using a 8.8 grade bolt and nut to my motorcycles exaust pipe, which will be the best to use for the nut not to loosen?
When it comes to Loctite products, you should always look up exactly AND i mean EXACTLY what product you going to use. There are sooooo many! Same product different name between origins and countries. I have an green loctite product with red bottle, with blue label (can't rememberer the name) but it's NOT wicking loctite like you mention (i know what kind of locitet you mean). Some green loctite are more like rubber and used both for plummeting product to see if they are open and to not get loose. The green loctite i bought was design for high heat and thread "fill".
Yes, definitely know the number and what it's used for. There is blue 241, 242, 243. Just check the front of the bottle, There are many, many different numbers for each color.
Thanks Pete. Very informative. Just one thing I don't agree with. Just last summer I was putting things together on my old Fargo and I used red loctite that was over 15 years old. That was all I had.. A couple of months later I had to remove the bolts and they were very hard to loosen. So even old loctite works. Now if I was using it on my engine, I would use new stuff. But I won't be throwing any of my old loctite our any time soon. Still all your videos are great. I watch them all. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Andy, I have bottles that are a couple year old. It's not that they won't work anymore, the grip strength does decrease over time. As moisture gets in the ability to cure changes. On safety related fasteners I will use new stuff, but keep older stuff around for minor fixes. I asked the chemist right at the factory, unless he's also the salesman!....lol
Informative video, actually! I've just been trying to discover how different gel Loctite (or Permatex) is from its liquid counterparts. Usually, in regards to curing time.
Thank you Pete, i had an issue that i didn't know about... I never knew some people used locktite for manual transmission and some other parts. If you also find time, can you update your description as to where you found some of this information?
Awesome video. Straight to the point with lots of information. I have loose screws that hold the crank of a sill of casement windows. The screws can be tightened (but I'm worried about stripping the threads). Should I use red or blue (does removal matter-is ue less strong than red)? Or a different material, like epoxy? What if the screw can turn and not tighten down? Epoxy? Thanks.
I have a 70 HP Tractor that has side frames bolted to each side of the engine. Front end loaders are bolted to the side frame. The vibration of the loader caused the fasteners (5/8" bolts) attaching the side frames to the engine to loosen. To prevent this Red Loctite 271 was applied to the 5/8" bolts screwed into the engine block. A necessary service at this point requires the side frames to be removed from the engine. Needless to say it will be difficult if not impossible to heat the engine block to 500 deg. F to loosen the Loctite. If the bolt is heated enough for the Loctite to release will it reseal itself after the bolt cools down. Concerned that if trying to remove the bolt while still heated to 500 deg. it will be more prone twisting and failing before removal.
Can I use this on wall mounted bath taps. Compression has failed with ptfe, so I have too smash up a tile get to the back will this do the job looking for recommendation on which one I should go for.
"Superglues" (cyanoacrylate adhesives) are not cured by the anaerobic process, and therefore not affected by the absence of air (or more accurately, oxygen).
yeah the fact that they cure in an "anaerobic environment" just means they dont need oxygen to cure, like polyurethane/window weld. they rely on the catalytic surface effect of metals, just like how a catalytic converter works in a car to clean nox/sox. because aluminum is so much more reactive than most other metals, it near instantly forms a nonconducting oxide surface on top which makes cure times significantly longer for fasteners that are going into aluminum. lock tight might never set up if you used an aluminum fastener in an aluminum thread. for the people wondering how you clean a bolt off so you can reapply locktite, thats a mute point. oils are bad and should be cleaned coz they can prevent the metal surface reaction, but old locktite is itself catalytically active so as long as its not covered in oil, it will continue to polyimerize the epoxy. think of the surface as the activating agent for a 1 part epoxy which is basically what locktite is
Good info Pete, love your channel. Never heard about mixing 242 with Isopropyl before... One thing you never touched on, that I have always been curious about. If using loctite, does it change the value of your primary retention [torque]? As it is viscous, you would think that the torque values should be lower. Thoughts?
Thanks Dan, it's not the viscosity that changes the torque, it's the lubricity. The answer is YES, Loctite will act as a lubricant so adjust accordingly
@@PetesGarage Is there a general rule of thumb? What I've been doing is that if a torque range is specified, I will use the lower spec. I agree with what you are saying about the secondary fastener retention, but working in aircraft maintenance where there is usually always a secondary retention requirement, I use it quite a bit more than when you say it should be used [high vibration].
I have a pair of reluctor rings that are slightly larger than the driveshaft I'm attempting to attach them to. Can red loctite successfully hold them in place or is this more of a 2-part epoxy type job?
hey, great video, i need the strongest loctite, would the epoxy be the strongest? im trying to permanently stick a nut onto a stuck stud. since i do not kno how to weld and weld them together, i need something close to it. ive heard about loctite 660, loctite epoxy, and j-b weld, which do u think would be the best/strongest?
Hi, can Loctite 510 be used to mate motorcycle crankcase halves made of aluminium alloy, without a primer activator? I bought 510 since 518 was not available. Thank you.
I use 290 for a different purpose, to prevent erosion of the parent metal around the valve seats on Myers’s high pressure water pumps. Anywhere where the 290 wick onto doesn’t get eroded by the high volume or pressure of the water, yet the non coated 290 parent metal will erode. Something so simple saves these pumps from being thrown aways.
I used Loctite 262 on some screws that hold my primary gear to my clutch basket on my dirt bike. Let it set for about an hour and a half. Then put oil in the bike and did a test run. Will oil dissolve the loctite, or should it be good to go? Thanks!!
Авто/Мото
I needed to find out about Loctite. Luckily RUclips recommended this. Excellent explanations that even those with zero knowledge will understand. The best explanation there is out in RUclips Land.
Thanks my friend
I felt weird not knowing what locktite to use and where. Now all my questions and the questions I didn't know I had are answered. Thanks for an awesome explanation!
Glad I could help!
"Hi! Im some rando internet dude in a garage ... so lets talk about history, science and anaerobic thread locking sealants". Im sold
Honestly clicked on this video expecting some dude to say "use the blue one, it tastes nice". Never expected a master class in science history. Colour me impressed.
Thank you my friend
@@PetesGarage You are very welcome. Its brilliant that you give people the information that they need, and throw in some entertaining background education too.
One GREATEST clearest and fastest tutorial ever on Loctite Threadlocker products !
Thanks Pete !
Thank you Philippe
You just helped me answer why my 4 year old loctite wasn't working as it used to, very useful and informational video
Glad it helped
Good show Pete! That tightens up my understanding of all the various colors of thread locker, especially the wicking kind. Thanks!
Thanks James, it a simple product most people misunderstand.
Never saw a better A to Z.
You are a great speaker, just the right amount of energy.
Thank you my friend
I'll bet ChrisFix gave this a thumbs up.. ;-) 🇬🇧
WOW that was a brilliant explanation of the differences in loctite and their applications, so thank you very much Pete 👍🏼 especially the wicking top tip 😊
Glad it was helpful!
Great info. I just put a water pump in a Grand Prix 3.8l engine, went to buy thread sealant for the water pump bolt threads but all they had at the auto parts store was thread locker/sealant. The thread locker was blue so I used it, but all I really wanted was the sealant. Thanks Pete for another great video.
Thanks J, that water pump is on there for sure. I'm surprised the blue sealed the threads.
I've got Loctite that is 30 years old and it still works!
Sure it will work, but does it have the full holding strength
Awesome Pete! Thanks!
Glad you gave a little mention to the thread sealer too. I'm in the camp of using thread sealer when putting anything threaded into a passage that has oil or coolant on the other side, rather than a thread locker. Like the just replaced oil sending unit on my 1996 Jeep. The new one came with some red stuff on the threads, no idea if that was a sealer or a locker. I used Permatex white thread sealer. BTW, the failed one that came out (aftermarket part installed about 16 years ago) had no signs of any sealer or locker visible, and no sign of oil leaking past threads either.
The thread sealer works great! More and more OEM's are providing fasteners with some kinds of sealer or locking patch on the threads. It's probably not a good idea to put anything on top of the factory applied stuff. I can't imagine any manufacturer using thread sealers in 1996.
@@PetesGarage Add no more? Oops, maybe next time :) The failed sending unit was installed around 2002/2004 ish Walmart broke off the factory original while changing my oil, cost them about $145 to replace it. I used the white Permatex that doesn't harden. BTW, I would not use the home plumbing thread sealer on an engine. Maybe superstition on my part, but I am sticking with it.
Great video Pete I’m now a new subscriber this has taken the confusion out of loctites numbers thanks again
Thanks for the sub! Glad it helped
Excellent video really liked the tip to make wicking loctite. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Pete! I learned a lot from this video and I appreciate you for making it.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video! One thing you didn't mention is that loctite can help keep a nut from rusting onto a bolt as bad. I've used it for that on a lot of farm equipment parts that I don't want to use anti seize on
Great tip!
Love the Isopropanol alcohol trick. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Denny
Pete you are a walking book of knowledge. Been using lock title for years ( red or blue ) in the aircraft industry but never knew the particulars about it. Great idea to change it to wicking. How many times do we put a fastener together and say damn forgot the locktite. Thanks buddy for sharing your knowledge Artie 😊
Thanks Artie!
I found this very interesting, answered every question and more thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this video Pete... I had no idea it had a shelf life of 1 year! There goes a one time used application of Blue gel locktite from my tool chest!
You can extend the life considerably by putting it in the freezer...due to low humidity. For safety related hardware I always make sure I use stuff that's not expired.
@@PetesGarage can you put regular blue loctite 242/243 in the freezer as well?
Hey Pete thanks for the videos this is great info for a future diesel mechanic like myself, you deff have a subscriber for life..
Thanks and good luck
I am NOT a gear head, but I needed info for a project I don’t want to mess up and this video was understandable and very helpful. Thanks so much.
Thanks David
You're a great communicator. Thanks!
Thank you Meg
Thanks Pete, great and helpful information.
Glad you enjoyed it Tom
Very informative. Thanks for sharing this information. It is greatly appreciated!
Thanks for watching Steve
Hi Pete's Garage! Thx for the great informative video. I was just hired by Henkel and I think this is helping me to understanding threadlockers
That's awesome!
Great tip on how to make your own wicking loctite with IPA. A very handy tip that I'm certain to use. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
That's a very informative video. Thanks, Pete.
Thanks Steve
Thanks for sharing the history as well. Had no clue locktite and superglue were older than me. Great info. A video explaining how engineers on an engine determine the torque requirements is something I've always wondered about.
It's older than me too.....lol. Determining torque is not that difficult. There are standard charts and tables for almost every fastener and material. Do a web search for Recommended Torque Charts and you'll see tons on them. It's all based on the material, thread engagement area, and desired clamp load.
Good informative vid Pete. One important tip that you may not have mentioned is to shake your loctite tube before applying. I come from the Harley world and have been using Permatex Blue threadlocker, which can be used in all applications calling for a Blue. This way i don't have to get separate Blues from Loctite (242/243.) Bummer that all this stuff expires after a year. When Red is called for, we use the 262 because our bolts are under 3/4", and the H-D service manual specifically calls for 262.
That's an excellent comment, thanks my friend
Real good information, Pete, thanks.
Thanks my friend
Thanks Pete, I had no clue about the expiration date
It's just a general rule
Mark Belden I never knew that either, great information
Hello Mr.Pete.
Valuable information hat's off to u Boss..
Thank you so much 🙂
Good tip with iso alcohol, did not know that. Handy bit of info right there
It really helps out when something is already together. Thanks Richard.
Recently replaced Cummins ISX-15 camshaft which does not use a key . It has a tapered shaft which has a final torque of 109 ft. lbs . Used Loctite 609 (green )after cleaning oil residue from camshaft and gear . Use ether or Brake Klean to remove oil residue before assembly . Great Information ! 7/2022
Thanks Vic
You are right about tourk being the primary fastener but the best reason is if a bolt or nut does come loose it will keep it from coming completely off and getting into moving parts and causing complete destruction of whatever it happens to be in. The best tip i heard from this is using the alcohol to make it draw down into the threads. Great video thanks.
Thanks my friend
A Great product thanks for the detail 🇬🇧
No problem 👍
Excellent info, thanks!
Thanks my friend
Awesome bro I always wanted to know what the differences were and now I know. Thanks
There are so many different types, but only a couple available locally, unless you know the specific number you're looking for and order it online.
Thanks for the tip on making the wicking loctite
Glad to help
Exactly what I was searching for!life saver!
Awesome!
Awesome, I'll probably comeback here again when I actually use locktite but for now it's good to get a general idea, great vid :)
Thanks
Solid info as always. I didn't know about the expiration date or wicking Loctite.
On the topic of Loctite, if you are working on a Harley especially an older single cam Harley almost every bolt should get at least Blue Loctite and driveline stuff Red. I recently bought a 98 Road King with a 113 Evo and the previous owner/ builder did not use any that I can see and the bike is literally falling apart as it goes down the street.
I get many questions about Loctite so I thought I'd share with everyone. Yeah, that Harley problem is just bad engineering. Imagine owning a Harley before Loctite was available.
Really useful info, and loved the tip on making your own wicking loctite. Any advice on how to (or whether it’s advisable to) clean dirty threads prior to applying loctite?
Dirty threads can just be either sprayed with degreaser and/or brushed with a wire brush.
@@PetesGarage what can you use to remove old loctite from a screw or something you need to reapply loctite to and use again?
Great video Pete
Thanks Ahmad
Awesome info dude. very helpful. Cheers.
Glad it was helpful!
Ive used the green loctite retaining compound as well... i think it was 680... used it on a spun pinion bearing and it worked. Not a super legit thing to do but sometimes thats how it goes. Good tip on the wicking loctite.
There are many uses, it can be used to hold fitted machined parts.
great video+presentation+explanation mate! well done! NEW SUB 🙏🏻
Awesome, thank you!
Very informative. thanks👍👍
My pleasure
Bravo !!!! Great video !!!!!
Thanks my friend
Just what I needed thx alot
Great info, thank you.
You bet!
Really handy video. Cheers mate 👍😃
Thanks Tim
good tip on the wicking trick with the alchol
Works every time
Making your own wicking -Loctite- threadlocker is the BEST tip, even if I can't think of my own personal use case for it ATM.
Thanks my friend
Hi from Russia! Thanks a lot, excellent info!
Hello my friend
Thanks a lot brother, I learned a lot.
You're welcome my friend
Nice video, I have been using 3M TL71, which I guess is the same application of Loctite 271. I always think, better safe than sorry with thread lockers
Safe is a good way to go
Pete, as always, great video. Like the tip with the alcohol. In aerospace, they use bolts/nuts with holes and tie them with wire for the secondary fastening. Pricey, but cheaper than a plane falling out of the sky...lol. I actually have a David Brown tractor that uses wire on the bolts for the timing gears. Are certain penetrating oils better at breaking Loctite than others or is heat your only option?
Thanks Troy, there are quite a few secondary retention methods, maybe I'll do a video on them. I use PB Blaster, works pretty well. Acetone can dissolve Loctite.
I use Loctite to prevent loosening from vibration but also to prevent rust locked bolts. It prevent rust on the thread... trust me, It saved me tons of time while reparing my suspension and brakes
Interesting, thank you
3:03 I have occasionally had suspension parts come back out, despite proper torque. This is why I loctite suspension parts before I torque them to final specifications. I have seen OEM shock bolts with blue stuff on a few threads, so I suspect that some suspension components were treated with Loctite at the factory.
4:25 I prefer the Loctite tape so much, I don't even buy liquid Loctite if I can avoid it.
I did not know that Permatex threadlocker used the same color codes as Loctite. That is a good thing to know, since I often have to go where there is Permatex brand goods, but no Loctite/Henkel brand goods.
Suspension parts are good spots for Loctite. You will get some OEM bolts with Loctite patches on them. Permatex kinda jumped on the Loctite bandwagon. No need to confuse everyone with different colors.
Wow that was so helpful. Thank you
You're so welcome!
Great info on green
Thanks for watching!
I’ll mostly agree with your statement about not needing Loctite when working on a car. The engineer generally determines a torque spec to provide a particular amount of tension which also causes high friction between the threads and thus locks the bolt in tight. However, I have found that adding it to any pass through bolts on the exterior may significantly improve serviceability (think exhaust studs and bolts).
That's no problem
Yup, it helped.
Thx and here's a 👍
Thank you for the great video!
Can brake cleaner really help dissolve the Permatex brand ( blue loctite) I have on my pipe?
You can try, heat works best
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge !
I would like to know if ethanol would do the trick to make a wicking threadlocker or if i absolutely need IPA?
I suppose any alcohol would work
@@PetesGarage thanks again
Thank you!!
You're welcome
Very informative. Just a question. Im using a 8.8 grade bolt and nut to my motorcycles exaust pipe, which will be the best to use for the nut not to loosen?
Blue or red, blue if you want to be able to take it apart
When it comes to Loctite products, you should always look up exactly AND i mean EXACTLY what product you going to use. There are sooooo many! Same product different name between origins and countries. I have an green loctite product with red bottle, with blue label (can't rememberer the name) but it's NOT wicking loctite like you mention (i know what kind of locitet you mean).
Some green loctite are more like rubber and used both for plummeting product to see if they are open and to not get loose.
The green loctite i bought was design for high heat and thread "fill".
Here in workshop speech blue is 243 for thread locking and green is 638 for securing shafts
Yes, definitely know the number and what it's used for. There is blue 241, 242, 243. Just check the front of the bottle, There are many, many different numbers for each color.
Very useful that video, but I remove a bolt with blue loctite, how can I clean the thread to assemble and put it new blue fixer?? Thanks
Clean the threads with a bottoming tap
Thanks Pete. Very informative. Just one thing I don't agree with. Just last summer I was putting things together on my old Fargo and I used red loctite that was over 15 years old. That was all I had.. A couple of months later I had to remove the bolts and they were very hard to loosen. So even old loctite works. Now if I was using it on my engine, I would use new stuff. But I won't be throwing any of my old loctite our any time soon. Still all your videos are great. I watch them all. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Andy, I have bottles that are a couple year old. It's not that they won't work anymore, the grip strength does decrease over time. As moisture gets in the ability to cure changes. On safety related fasteners I will use new stuff, but keep older stuff around for minor fixes. I asked the chemist right at the factory, unless he's also the salesman!....lol
@@PetesGarage Thanks Pete. Keep all the good info coming.
Informative video, actually! I've just been trying to discover how different gel Loctite (or Permatex) is from its liquid counterparts. Usually, in regards to curing time.
Thanks Philip
Hi Pete
Another very nice video
Thanks my friend
My Harley Davison cannot live without locktite. Thanks for the additional info.
I believe it
Very informative......
and Balloons!
Gotta have balloons
Great video👍
Thanks 👍
How do you remove it to remove the cv axel nut.
Great Video :) Very good explanation!
Thanks! 😃
Thank you Pete, i had an issue that i didn't know about... I never knew some people used locktite for manual transmission and some other parts.
If you also find time, can you update your description as to where you found some of this information?
Thanks my friend. You can go right to the Henkel website and find the information I shared and more.
@@PetesGarage thank you.
Awesome video. Straight to the point with lots of information.
I have loose screws that hold the crank of a sill of casement windows. The screws can be tightened (but I'm worried about stripping the threads). Should I use red or blue (does removal matter-is ue less strong than red)? Or a different material, like epoxy?
What if the screw can turn and not tighten down? Epoxy?
Thanks.
I would use blue
purple for small diameter bolts.
Well done, you covered a lot of information concise & to the point, Good Video.
Thanks my friend
Learned something ,thx!
Awesome
Good stuff, thanks for the rundown. And BTW, what's the right solvent to unseal my lips? :0
Good question!
I have a 70 HP Tractor that has side frames bolted to each side of the engine. Front end loaders are bolted to the side frame. The vibration of the loader caused the fasteners (5/8" bolts) attaching the side frames to the engine to loosen. To prevent this Red Loctite 271 was applied to the 5/8" bolts screwed into the engine block. A necessary service at this point requires the side frames to be removed from the engine. Needless to say it will be difficult if not impossible to heat the engine block to 500 deg. F to loosen the Loctite. If the bolt is heated enough for the Loctite to release will it reseal itself after the bolt cools down. Concerned that if trying to remove the bolt while still heated to 500 deg. it will be more prone twisting and failing before removal.
That is the risk in using the red. When the bolt is loose you can spray some acetone in there to help keep it loose.
Can I use this on wall mounted bath taps. Compression has failed with ptfe, so I have too smash up a tile get to the back will this do the job looking for recommendation on which one I should go for.
If compression with PTFE fails on water, I think you have mismatched threads
"Superglues" (cyanoacrylate adhesives) are not cured by the anaerobic process, and therefore not affected by the absence of air (or more accurately, oxygen).
Interesting
yeah the fact that they cure in an "anaerobic environment" just means they dont need oxygen to cure, like polyurethane/window weld. they rely on the catalytic surface effect of metals, just like how a catalytic converter works in a car to clean nox/sox. because aluminum is so much more reactive than most other metals, it near instantly forms a nonconducting oxide surface on top which makes cure times significantly longer for fasteners that are going into aluminum. lock tight might never set up if you used an aluminum fastener in an aluminum thread. for the people wondering how you clean a bolt off so you can reapply locktite, thats a mute point. oils are bad and should be cleaned coz they can prevent the metal surface reaction, but old locktite is itself catalytically active so as long as its not covered in oil, it will continue to polyimerize the epoxy. think of the surface as the activating agent for a 1 part epoxy which is basically what locktite is
Good info Pete, love your channel. Never heard about mixing 242 with Isopropyl before...
One thing you never touched on, that I have always been curious about. If using loctite, does it change the value of your primary retention [torque]? As it is viscous, you would think that the torque values should be lower. Thoughts?
Thanks Dan, it's not the viscosity that changes the torque, it's the lubricity. The answer is YES, Loctite will act as a lubricant so adjust accordingly
@@PetesGarage Is there a general rule of thumb? What I've been doing is that if a torque range is specified, I will use the lower spec. I agree with what you are saying about the secondary fastener retention, but working in aircraft maintenance where there is usually always a secondary retention requirement, I use it quite a bit more than when you say it should be used [high vibration].
There is no rule of thumb per se, but there are specs for fasteners by size with and without different kinds of lube.
Love your vids
Thanks Casey
i Like your Garage and the Holy Cross in the Back Ground - Thanks for the Idea
Thank you, you have to be grounded in faith, any faith
I Also Noticed This!!.....It Is Good to See!!
If you have any other questions about loctite, ask a Harley Davidson Owner.
Good point, those things would destroy themselves if you didn't glue them together Poor engineering.
I have a pair of reluctor rings that are slightly larger than the driveshaft I'm attempting to attach them to. Can red loctite successfully hold them in place or is this more of a 2-part epoxy type job?
Epoxy for sure
@@PetesGarage Thanks bro. Great videos btw. Really enjoying the engine building series. Subscribed.
cool wick trick. but will it work on nylon enhanced nuts?
Yes it will
A question please i put some threadlocker in my crankshaft bolts and I forgot to shake the bottle is it ever gonna hold The fasteners in place
Thanks
Sure, unless the bottle has been sitting for years
hey, great video, i need the strongest loctite, would the epoxy be the strongest? im trying to permanently stick a nut onto a stuck stud. since i do not kno how to weld and weld them together, i need something close to it. ive heard about loctite 660, loctite epoxy, and j-b weld, which do u think would be the best/strongest?
j-b weld works great
@@PetesGarage thank you sir, ill try that
Hi, can Loctite 510 be used to mate motorcycle crankcase halves made of aluminium alloy, without a primer activator? I bought 510 since 518 was not available. Thank you.
Yes you can
Which Loctite do you recommend for ring gears in a 9" Ford rear end?
Blue 242
I use 290 for a different purpose, to prevent erosion of the parent metal around the valve seats on Myers’s high pressure water pumps. Anywhere where the 290 wick onto doesn’t get eroded by the high volume or pressure of the water, yet the non coated 290 parent metal will erode. Something so simple saves these pumps from being thrown aways.
Awesome tip, thanks
LOCTITE® 290 is a green, medium-high strength wicking threadlocker
I used Loctite 262 on some screws that hold my primary gear to my clutch basket on my dirt bike. Let it set for about an hour and a half. Then put oil in the bike and did a test run. Will oil dissolve the loctite, or should it be good to go? Thanks!!
You should have no problems, but you will have to heat it up to remove it.
@@PetesGarage Thank you!!