Service manual (toyota ) says remove it completely. Place power on pin1 (right) and ground pin 2. Measure on pin 3 and 5 and blow air at it. Check the voltage fluctuates. Then check resistance across pin 4 and 5. There should be anywhere areound 2.6-0.3 kiloohms, based on temp. The reason to test sensors by temp is because their readings should change, and what thr voltage reads is more based on the response to temp. The response to temp is based on resistance. If you have live feed, them you can look at the wave signal or read how nany grams per second it reads.
I just tried a web site that for $2 let’s you ask a question of a mechanic so I asked which is the signal wire on a Subaru forester and I got yellow wire pin 5. This info in addition to this excellent video allows me to follow the direction but jump straight to testing…wow this makes it so simple. Thanks for the great video.
@@johnnyappleseed6665 Don't give in, man. Just keep going, like I do. I get a wonderful sense of achievement when I finally get there.. plus I can stand watching TV.
Impressive no guess work I've seen so called mechanics not do those tests and changing buy chance which costs us all .fab guy awesome keep up the good work !!!
If you mean that the mechanic stripped some of the wire insulation to make connections with a voltmeter (multimeter); then, you got a poor mechanic. Using backprobe pins is the correct way to proceed to make electrical measurements.
Thanks my friend, i enjoyed watching your educational video, except at the point of 6:20 of your video, I'm confused. Where's the ground wire coming from and to where are you connecting to it please?
I’m still confused. Fantastic video except there’s a large gap of knowledge. I’d the negative black lead from multimeter still at the battery? Then introduce a new wire to connect any ground to the ground on sensor? But didn’t we have two wires with continuity “which makes sense because there’s two black wires “
Thank for that video it’s super helpful to me. I don’t need to know the sensor resistance… i Just want to know if the sensor is doing it job. Testing resistance is only relevant, if you want to repair the faulty sensor.
@@marknapier8083 Before attempting to comment further ask a literate person to help you to compose a sentence that resembles that of a literate person, you ramblings do not make sense, why there must always be an ignoramus commenting on anything is a mystery.
The easiest way to test a MAF is directly in the data stream with your scam tool. No need to damage the sensor connector with paper clips. On a 6.0 liter engine the data stream should read 1 gram per second per liter of engine displacement. A 6.0 liter V8 should read at least 6.0 grams per second at idle. If it's lower than 1 gram per second per liter you need to inspect the engine for vacuum leaks in the intake system. Test for exhaust leaks ahead of the oxygen sensor like doughnut gaskets. If you find no leaks remove and inspect the sensor hot wire for debry or contamination. Clean the wire with MAF spray cleaner. If your data still reads below the standard of 1 gram airflow per liter of engine displacement verify your diag of vacuum and exhaust inspection. Check for restricted air filter etc. if nothing is found replace the MAF. This diagnosis is accurate because you've inspected, repaired and vacuum or exhaust issues. I have fixed many many other techs "come backs" by doing the diagnosis described here. No need to guess this diagnosis is exactly what the engineers use to describe the technique.
@@The77stevo77Test the MAF by reading live data at idle. An accurate MAF will show 1 gram per second for each liter of engine displacement. A 5.3 V8 should draw 5.3 grams per second air flow at idle. If it seems like it's low look for intake and exhaust leaks. If you don't find a leak remove and clean the MAF and retest for 1 gram airflow per liter of engine displacement. If it's still low replace the sensor and retest. Simple and you didn't damage the harness by needlessly back probing the connector and damaging the harness.
I AVE MERCEDES BENZ C220 OF 1996 , NOW I AM FACING THE ABOVE PROBLEM, LIKE ENGINE RPM GO VERY HIGH, BUT THERE NO POWER TO PULL THE CAR, ITS STARTED SHOWING THIS PROBLEM RECENTLY, IS IT RELATED TO MASS AIR FLOW SENSER, AND ALSO PETROL CONSUMPTION ALSO INCREASED, ?EXPECTING SOME REPLY FROM YOU,
Saw that too, does that mean he needs to test the harness? Cuz I’m facing the same issue with a 08 subie. Batt wouldnt hold a charge, replaced it. Buddy wanted the fuel pump replaced while at it for kicks. Cleaned ground spot, replaced the greenish color ground strap, forgot to plug MAF in, neg term tight, started right up. Plugged the MAF in with it running, idled without much slug, and no CELS. Fast forward a couple hours, all crank no start. Replaced the cracked terminals, cleaned up all the grounds batt side, all crank no start, scanner gave MAF codes. It had 02 sensors and cat sensors and VVT sensor codes before. But now it’s just the MAF codes. I thought the batt was the main problem, I guess it was secondary. I about had it with this damn car lmao
Thanks for the great video, Mate. How do you know that the yellow was the signal wire, for the red meter probe to connect to, or does it matter? Could you have put the meter probes on the other way and it would have read negative; or would it cause damage? Thanks again, my friend🙏👍
@@PhillipsVision thanks my fry. Would it matter if you put the probes on the other way round, or would the value be the same but negative. Thanks again.🙏👍
I got a bit confused at the placement of the probes. I know that youre putting the copper wire at the signal wire however, did you put the positive probe of the multimeter to the positive on the mas port and id the negative coming straight from the battery to the signal probe on the mas?
Won't matter , if you get it reversed then the multimeter will just read a negative voltage instead of positive. Just ignore the negative sign if you reverse em. But black to one of the grounds and red to your signal and that'll give you the positive reading.
Hi and thanks for the vid. I have been following your steps, when i test for the positive lead wire from the harness im only getting 5V. But w. hen I test the battery directly im getting 12.8V. Any ideas?
My 95 lincoln mark viii motor, in my 67 f100 seems to snap and pop and crackle when its cold. I notice it as the temperature gets cooler towards the fall. I've cleaned the MAF but it still does it. Any suggestions.?
1999 Toyota Avalon car with a v6 engine that cranked but wasn't starting. After engine rebuild and gear oil replaced . While test driving by the engineer , smoke started emanating from the engine bay. Precisely, from the fan relay that the car owner connected by himself. Within few minutes, the car shutdown by itself as if fuel is finished. Presently, it's a crank a crank no start, no spark, no injector pulse, check engine light staying ON with ECU connected or removed. I tried to scan for DTC codes, but my scanner wasn't communicating. I checked all fuses, power and ground at obd port, those checked ok. but my scanner isn't compatible to read CAN network. There are only 4 wires intact for the obd2 port. Furthermore, I added fuel through the intake to the engine, no change at all. I checked for spark and injector pulse. These things weren't present. But there was power to injector with just the key at ignition or ACC and COP had 1 ground and 1 power as usual. With the ECU removed battery connected, Engine light would come ON. with ECU connected check light still comes ON. Before I left, I checked the MAF sensor 5 wires and noticed that 3 wires were earth instead of 2 and 1 power; no ignition current/ power was available for the remaining 2 wires. Please, what should I do to get this car running again?
I've always had intermittent issues engine management issues with my 03 Chevy Express. It sat for about 7 years until I recently needed to get it back on the road. It ran fine then it stalled on me and I had a MAF code. I found the tube for the intake popped off the piece that attaches to the throttle body. FFS
Andy have a 2011 2.4 Equinox.Codes saying bad intake and exhaust solinod.Rreplaced but still runs rough making sound out of timing chain cover.When unplug solinod intake. sensor helps.Very confused what wrong.
Great video! Got a little confused with the final testing part - are you testing the yellow and orange wires together or Yellow to Ground and orange to ground (2 separate tests)?
You say after excluding the 12v power and two ground wires, one is left with the signal wire and sensor ground. . . But of those two, neither tested positive for ground continuity. How could there be a "sensor ground" wire that's negative for ground continuity?
Hi Phillip Great video I have a 2009 Murano V6 I replace the fuel pump but still no start spin over good I can hear the pump run when I turn the switch on, can I still check the Mas air flow sensor if it's not running Thanks
Yes, but doesn’t sound like the MAF, could be the fuel system or ignition system. Make sure the injectors aren’t clogged or the ignition coils or spark plugs are bad.
@@PhillipsVision Hi Phillip i check It now I have a U1000 Code on the 2009 Nissan Murano is there anything I can do to fix it Thanks again could one of the sensor be bad
Sir…good step by step, however on your back probe description, you put your stripped wire in the sensor line, but what wire/line was the red multimeter probe inserted. Thank you
He definitely didn’t explain this well. From my understanding he backprobed the 5V wire and the only wire left after finding 2 grounds, the 12V and the 5V. That wire would’ve been the one all the way to the left if looking at the front of the connector.
I'm glad mine only has three pins❤😂. I'm not a mechanic. I don't mind "firing a parts cannon" the junk I work on probably needs it anyway and at the price of a shop I can replace a bunch of stuff and still come in under budget. All hail the mighty parts cannon. I just wish spark plugs weren't such a bite to get to on front wheel drive cars . I can replace injectors easier than spark plugs and that just ain't right.
Hows this the mass air flow problem? Its the plug issue not mass airflow im lost? At the end whats next you change the plugs or the mass air filter now? You only tested the plugs 😢im lost
hello there! i have the 2015 verso 1.6 diesel and the check engine light comes on with a p00bd fault code which refers to the mass air filter. i've done everything from changing the maf sensor to cleaning the air intake manifold but the faults pops up again and again. my electrician has inspected it twice and sais there is no wiring problem. any idea what it can be???
I have a 04 Vortec 4.3. I have a rich reading in both O2 banks. And a MAF reading in the 7’s at idle and 12-14 at 1400rpms. O2 short trims are in the -20’s. Not sure what’s causing the rich running. Pretty stumped
@@PhillipsVision do you think a bad spider injector can cause it? Fuel trims are in the negative as it’s trying to reduce fuel. O2 banks on both side are showing rich. maybe the MAF is showing high to compensate for the amount of fuel that’s being dumped in?
Sgt Jones……. Thank you for your sacrifice. I have learned that I can never question anyone’s military service be it they served for 1 month or 20 years. Just signing that contract and shipping to bootcamp is ……..
@@esdeynnahernandez4964 start you car cold, watch the RPMs. If it’s working fine you should hover around 1.5 RPMs and gradually drop to around 600. You can also take it out and visually test it. The plunger will open and close.
TIP: Use an analog voltmeter with a needle (not a DMM) to measure voltage swings with gradual rates of change. It's easier and gives a better, more meaningful visual representation.
How come you didn't do a before and after test.. That way you could prove that the new sensor works better like what you said that it increases slowly upward...
I don’t believe there is a specific fuse for the MAF sensor. If you’re not getting power, you may have a break in the wires that need to be replaced. Here is a link to a video I did showing how to find a break in wires: ruclips.net/video/714_57IRwkk/видео.htmlsi=SDTRjuy1pTdckBIc
I have code 106 and 108 the car starts but sounds ruff idling think its map sensor or wire any suggestions ihave changed spark plugs coil packs mass sensor now order map sensor
@@kylebrewer6686 the codes you are getting pertain to the MAP sensor. When those go bad you will get rough idling among other things. Replacing it should solve your issue.
@@kelvinsmall2552 sometimes those aftermarket parts can be subpar and cause issues. I’ve had good and bad experiences with them. Make sure you are also getting a solid connection when you probe the harness
Don’t Chevy’s use a frequency style maf. Meaning unless your multimeter if set to frequency (hertz) it’ll just get an average measurement making this test inaccurate
You are not clear where you finally plug the positive and negative of your multimeter. Not so help full. I know that you plug the positive on the signal but what about the other one?
I had a black wire with 12 volts and a white wire with 4.49 volts or signal wire. Red was my ground. LOL Since the car won't stay running after starting it, it's difficult to test it. I was hoping for a standardized resistance between the different pins or something like that.
At back probing You show where you connect the red lead of multimeter. Next you say you Connect the multimeter ground to the other....other what ????????? Ground ? Other back probe? Other. What.????
Yeah I was following right up until he got to the signal wires. 12v battery power and Gnd continuity check made sense. But there was no closeup of the back probing other than showing the first copper wire being inserted on that one pin. Are we to assume the remaining wire that was not a Gnd had a probe inserted and the multimeter was attached to those? Aren't those the air intake temperature sensor leads? On another video, it showed if your MAF has 5 wires, there is an IAT. Was that the case on this or not? There is still some info lacking to me.
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Awesome!! finally someone who finds the actual problem instead of just replacing parts!
😂 same! I'm glad I found this video. You actually learn something important besides throwing parts at the problem.
Service manual (toyota ) says remove it completely. Place power on pin1 (right) and ground pin 2. Measure on pin 3 and 5 and blow air at it. Check the voltage fluctuates. Then check resistance across pin 4 and 5. There should be anywhere areound 2.6-0.3 kiloohms, based on temp. The reason to test sensors by temp is because their readings should change, and what thr voltage reads is more based on the response to temp. The response to temp is based on resistance. If you have live feed, them you can look at the wave signal or read how nany grams per second it reads.
Just subscribed. Appreciate actual information on problem solving. Not the typical part cannon mechanic
Thanks for the comment and support
It's nice to see how it looks like when you have a bad one. Now no need to doudt if bad or good. Thanks
I just tried a web site that for $2 let’s you ask a question of a mechanic so I asked which is the signal wire on a Subaru forester and I got yellow wire pin 5. This info in addition to this excellent video allows me to follow the direction but jump straight to testing…wow this makes it so simple. Thanks for the great video.
👍
what website would that be my friend.. Im trying to teach myself right now and Im kinda stuck
@@johnnyappleseed6665 Don't give in, man. Just keep going, like I do. I get a wonderful sense of achievement when I finally get there.. plus I can stand watching TV.
Thanks for taking the time to show how to check the unit.
Great video. I've just learnt something new. Can you do a video on how to test the O2 Sensors please
Impressive no guess work I've seen so called mechanics not do those tests and changing buy chance which costs us all .fab guy awesome keep up the good work !!!
Thanks for the feedback 👍
I had a mechanic that ripped The Wire off my harness that went to the air mass flow sensor this is a good video
If you mean that the mechanic stripped some of the wire insulation to make connections with a voltmeter (multimeter); then, you got a poor mechanic. Using backprobe pins is the correct way to proceed to make electrical measurements.
Thanks my friend, i enjoyed watching your educational video, except at the point of 6:20 of your video, I'm confused. Where's the ground wire coming from and to where are you connecting to it please?
The black wire on the harness should be your ground. It is at the end of the harness
Have the same question, thanks for your help.
Is it red wire in sensor coupler?@@PhillipsVision
I’m still confused. Fantastic video except there’s a large gap of knowledge. I’d the negative black lead from multimeter still at the battery? Then introduce a new wire to connect any ground to the ground on sensor? But didn’t we have two wires with continuity “which makes sense because there’s two black wires “
What conclusion did you find after changing the sensor? Please reply.
So if the volts go from 1.08 at idle to 0 with acceleration that also means the sensor is bad?
Outstanding hand salute from American Legion Dist 14 Cmdr. Southern Florida 🫡🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Before I watch this video I didn't have a clue now at least I have a clue.😊 Thanks alot brother.
@@Stever-il3rb awesome, glad it helped 👍
Thank for that video it’s super helpful to me. I don’t need to know the sensor resistance… i Just want to know if the sensor is doing it job. Testing resistance is only relevant, if you want to repair the faulty sensor.
Another way to test the maf sensor if your suspecting it. Is unplug it. And if the vehicle doesn't die. The maf sensor is toast
I rmeove it but nothing changes.
@johnnyrebel3340 No, that is not true, reread and rethink what you wrote and you will realise it makes no sense.
Hahahah thats mean your MAF sensor are bad. Change it to the new ones@@androlaius3859
@MrGoogelaar nah your wrong that's how my f150 runs at its best speaking from it starting with no keys ethier... test before you speak
@@marknapier8083 Before attempting to comment further ask a literate person to help you to compose a sentence that resembles that of a literate person, you ramblings do not make sense, why there must always be an ignoramus commenting on anything is a mystery.
The easiest way to test a MAF is directly in the data stream with your scam tool. No need to damage the sensor connector with paper clips. On a 6.0 liter engine the data stream should read 1 gram per second per liter of engine displacement. A 6.0 liter V8 should read at least 6.0 grams per second at idle. If it's lower than 1 gram per second per liter you need to inspect the engine for vacuum leaks in the intake system. Test for exhaust leaks ahead of the oxygen sensor like doughnut gaskets. If you find no leaks remove and inspect the sensor hot wire for debry or contamination. Clean the wire with MAF spray cleaner. If your data still reads below the standard of 1 gram airflow per liter of engine displacement verify your diag of vacuum and exhaust inspection. Check for restricted air filter etc. if nothing is found replace the MAF. This diagnosis is accurate because you've inspected, repaired and vacuum or exhaust issues. I have fixed many many other techs "come backs" by doing the diagnosis described here. No need to guess this diagnosis is exactly what the engineers use to describe the technique.
How do I test it under load?
What would I look for?
Do I have to be driving?
Can it be in park,
And just raise rpm?
5.3 ls
Finding the problem without a scan tool is way more satisfying 🤘
@@Its_a_rangerwhat this video shows is lack of training and hacking into the harness to diagnose something you know nothing about.
@@The77stevo77Test the MAF by reading live data at idle. An accurate MAF will show 1 gram per second for each liter of engine displacement. A 5.3 V8 should draw 5.3 grams per second air flow at idle. If it seems like it's low look for intake and exhaust leaks. If you don't find a leak remove and clean the MAF and retest for 1 gram airflow per liter of engine displacement. If it's still low replace the sensor and retest. Simple and you didn't damage the harness by needlessly back probing the connector and damaging the harness.
I AVE MERCEDES BENZ C220 OF 1996 , NOW I AM FACING THE ABOVE PROBLEM, LIKE ENGINE RPM GO VERY HIGH, BUT THERE NO POWER TO PULL THE CAR, ITS STARTED SHOWING THIS PROBLEM RECENTLY, IS IT RELATED TO MASS AIR FLOW SENSER, AND ALSO PETROL CONSUMPTION ALSO INCREASED, ?EXPECTING SOME REPLY FROM YOU,
Great video! I was taught when checking continuity does the key have to be off?
Yes
Do I need to reprogram the CU when I replace the MAF with a new one? Thanks, best wishes from Saudi Arabia🖐
No, only if replacing the SKIM or chipped key.
Excellent information and tutorial, thanks.
What were the symptoms? Not being an electronics guy I had a hard time following this.
Very informative video up until the ~6 minute mark. I got disoriented when I saw the multimeter probe directly connected to the wire harness.
Saw that too, does that mean he needs to test the harness? Cuz I’m facing the same issue with a 08 subie. Batt wouldnt hold a charge, replaced it. Buddy wanted the fuel pump replaced while at it for kicks. Cleaned ground spot, replaced the greenish color ground strap, forgot to plug MAF in, neg term tight, started right up. Plugged the MAF in with it running, idled without much slug, and no CELS. Fast forward a couple hours, all crank no start. Replaced the cracked terminals, cleaned up all the grounds batt side, all crank no start, scanner gave MAF codes. It had 02 sensors and cat sensors and VVT sensor codes before. But now it’s just the MAF codes. I thought the batt was the main problem, I guess it was secondary. I about had it with this damn car lmao
Thanks for the great video, Mate. How do you know that the yellow was the signal wire, for the red meter probe to connect to, or does it matter? Could you have put the meter probes on the other way and it would have read negative; or would it cause damage? Thanks again, my friend🙏👍
I found online a diagram of which wires were what
@@PhillipsVision thanks my fry. Would it matter if you put the probes on the other way round, or would the value be the same but negative. Thanks again.🙏👍
@@johnmartin7597 I would test them in the proper order to avoid a bad reading.
I got a bit confused at the placement of the probes. I know that youre putting the copper wire at the signal wire however, did you put the positive probe of the multimeter to the positive on the mas port and id the negative coming straight from the battery to the signal probe on the mas?
Won't matter , if you get it reversed then the multimeter will just read a negative voltage instead of positive. Just ignore the negative sign if you reverse em. But black to one of the grounds and red to your signal and that'll give you the positive reading.
Hi and thanks for the vid. I have been following your steps, when i test for the positive lead wire from the harness im only getting 5V. But w. hen I test the battery directly im getting 12.8V. Any ideas?
Can a good code reader tell the specs in the live sensor reading ?
My 95 lincoln mark viii motor, in my 67 f100 seems to snap and pop and crackle when its cold. I notice it as the temperature gets cooler towards the fall. I've cleaned the MAF but it still does it. Any suggestions.?
Awesome 👍 very detailed tutorial finally I have learned something
Will this test work on a hybrid car also...Toyota prius
Great video, I had to watch it few times to understand it. 😊
Thank you for the step by step.
1999 Toyota Avalon car with a v6 engine that cranked but wasn't starting.
After engine rebuild and gear oil replaced . While test driving by the engineer , smoke started emanating from the engine bay. Precisely, from the fan relay that the car owner connected by himself. Within few minutes, the car shutdown by itself as if fuel is finished.
Presently, it's a crank a crank no start, no spark, no injector pulse, check engine light staying ON with ECU connected or removed.
I tried to scan for DTC codes, but my scanner wasn't communicating. I checked all fuses, power and ground at obd port, those checked ok. but my scanner isn't compatible to read CAN network. There are only 4 wires intact for the obd2 port.
Furthermore, I added fuel through the intake to the engine, no change at all. I checked for spark and injector pulse. These things weren't present. But there was power to injector with just the key at ignition or ACC and COP had 1 ground and 1 power as usual.
With the ECU removed battery connected, Engine light would come ON. with ECU connected check light still comes ON.
Before I left, I checked the MAF sensor 5 wires and noticed that 3 wires were earth instead of 2 and 1 power; no ignition current/ power was available for the remaining 2 wires.
Please, what should I do
to get this car running again?
I've always had intermittent issues engine management issues with my 03 Chevy Express. It sat for about 7 years until I recently needed to get it back on the road. It ran fine then it stalled on me and I had a MAF code. I found the tube for the intake popped off the piece that attaches to the throttle body. FFS
Is it showing an engine check on the dashboard indicating a foulty maf?
Great explanation.
Just wondering if you checked out a new MAS for rising voltage to double prove the first one was faulty?
Or just unplug if it dies it's good if stays running it's bad
@@Billybritt-s4t does this work with all maf sensors?
@@Billybritt-s4tBy “it dies” do you mean “the motor shuts down”?
Won't the PWM pulse width be difficult to see accurately depending on the scan rate of a digital voltmeter?
Andy have a 2011 2.4 Equinox.Codes saying bad intake and exhaust solinod.Rreplaced but still runs rough making sound out of timing chain cover.When unplug solinod intake. sensor helps.Very confused what wrong.
Great video! Got a little confused with the final testing part - are you testing the yellow and orange wires together or Yellow to Ground and orange to ground (2 separate tests)?
@@markbahr1979 test them separately
What if the car will not start? Nice video. I have a no start condition 1995 corvette
Thanks for that. Much appreciated.
I Got confuse, the test red lead of the volmeter, where did you put it, you put it on the hot wire?
im new to all this. SO im confused what the difference is, to front probe the connector, then back probe it?
Do you place the two probs on eather of the two sensor at the back or do you need to put them on the right ones
wow. great video. thank you!!
You say after excluding the 12v power and two ground wires, one is left with the signal wire and sensor ground. . . But of those two, neither tested positive for ground continuity. How could there be a "sensor ground" wire that's negative for ground continuity?
I like the machines in the shop. Coin op and slots.
Thanks 👍
Is the multimeter probe and the copper wire in the same slot for signal?
Yes
great video. Clear instruction. GOod work
Great video! I will do the same. See how it works. Thanks
Hi Phillip Great video I have a 2009 Murano V6 I replace the fuel pump but still no start spin over good I can hear the pump run when I turn the switch on, can I still check the Mas air flow sensor if it's not running Thanks
Yes, but doesn’t sound like the MAF, could be the fuel system or ignition system. Make sure the injectors aren’t clogged or the ignition coils or spark plugs are bad.
@@PhillipsVision Hi Phillip i check It now I have a U1000 Code on the 2009 Nissan Murano is there anything I can do to fix it Thanks again could one of the sensor be bad
@@juggie396 this code pertains to a Communication Area Network lost communication. It could be a bad ECU or faulty wiring
@@PhillipsVision OK Thanks I'll look into it.
Where do you get the information from about what your MAF sensor's voltage readings should be?
Repair manual.
@@iulianc9037 And that repair manual costs how much money?
Beautiful video. Thank you 🎉🎉
Sir…good step by step, however on your back probe description, you put your stripped wire in the sensor line, but what wire/line was the red multimeter probe inserted. Thank you
Can you reply to this please
Yeah I was wondering the same thing. And agree it's otherwise a good video
He definitely didn’t explain this well. From my understanding he backprobed the 5V wire and the only wire left after finding 2 grounds, the 12V and the 5V. That wire would’ve been the one all the way to the left if looking at the front of the connector.
Thanks Carlos!👍👍@@CarlosCastillogearhead
He said right in there what wires to probe go back and watch and listen very carefully @4:10/9:05
I'm glad mine only has three pins❤😂.
I'm not a mechanic. I don't mind "firing a parts cannon" the junk I work on probably needs it anyway and at the price of a shop I can replace a bunch of stuff and still come in under budget. All hail the mighty parts cannon. I just wish spark plugs weren't such a bite to get to on front wheel drive cars . I can replace injectors easier than spark plugs and that just ain't right.
Hows this the mass air flow problem? Its the plug issue not mass airflow im lost? At the end whats next you change the plugs or the mass air filter now? You only tested the plugs 😢im lost
@@almministrys1659 I mention in the video that the sensor tested bad, so it needs to be replaced
hello there! i have the 2015 verso 1.6 diesel and the check engine light comes on with a p00bd fault code which refers to the mass air filter. i've done everything from changing the maf sensor to cleaning the air intake manifold but the faults pops up again and again. my electrician has inspected it twice and sais there is no wiring problem. any idea what it can be???
The code you are getting can also pertain to a leak in the intake. Did you check that as well?
Very helpful thank you
My harness plug doesn't allow for pin to go in back.
Thanks!
I have a 04 Vortec 4.3. I have a rich reading in both O2 banks. And a MAF reading in the 7’s at idle and 12-14 at 1400rpms. O2 short trims are in the -20’s. Not sure what’s causing the rich running. Pretty stumped
@@SubePelayo928 Are you getting any engine codes?
@@PhillipsVision the P0172-0175 rich codes and there was a pending code for the MAF
@@SubePelayo928 could be the MAF causing all these codes. Also check for vacuum leaks around your hoses
@@PhillipsVision do you think a bad spider injector can cause it? Fuel trims are in the negative as it’s trying to reduce fuel. O2 banks on both side are showing rich. maybe the MAF is showing high to compensate for the amount of fuel that’s being dumped in?
5 leads wire among 2 leads input ok..remains 3 leads it will check by multimeter is in it sir 👏
Qqqqqqqqzqqs ,z zc
Awesome video
i changed my aor floe sensor 2 times one is a toyota orfigenal mechaninic said i have a break in the harness how to i fix that please thank you
Great stuff!
Great video
Is it bad that my ground wires on the mass air flow sensor connector are reading 6 ohms ?
do i have a faulty maf sensor while car is idling and i unplug the sensor the car idle better and the cooling fan stays running
Very good job
Easier test start vehicle un plug mass air flow sensor if it dies
it's good if it keeps running it's bad
Hi, how can i find the voltage specs for mass airflow sensor?
@@ToyotaCorollaCE you’ll have to check for your specific vehicle but on average they range between 1-5volts
All these videos only show how to test a wire harness for it. How do you check for the resistance on just the sensor it’s self
If the mas is bad here's how.disconnect it while car is running if it shuts off its working if it still runs its bad
Some scan tools shows MAF performance.
Sgt Jones……. Thank you for your sacrifice. I have learned that I can never question anyone’s military service be it they served for 1 month or 20 years. Just signing that contract and shipping to bootcamp is ……..
Thank you for an intelligent video
Great video! ❤
Hi I have a 2012 sciom Iq and is ideling I change the throtle but no change on the idle any suggestions pleace
Could be a faulty IAC (Idle Air Control) Valve, or a dirty throttle body
@@PhillipsVision how can I check if the IAC is malfuncioning
@@esdeynnahernandez4964 start you car cold, watch the RPMs. If it’s working fine you should hover around 1.5 RPMs and gradually drop to around 600. You can also take it out and visually test it. The plunger will open and close.
Could it help cleaning the sensor?
@@bergatube60 I could if it’s failing due to dirt build up
TIP: Use an analog voltmeter with a needle (not a DMM) to measure voltage swings with gradual rates of change. It's easier and gives a better, more meaningful visual representation.
How come you didn't do a before and after test..
That way you could prove that the new sensor works better like what you said that it increases slowly upward...
Is there a fuse for that circuit? Am not getting any power.
I don’t believe there is a specific fuse for the MAF sensor. If you’re not getting power, you may have a break in the wires that need to be replaced. Here is a link to a video I did showing how to find a break in wires: ruclips.net/video/714_57IRwkk/видео.htmlsi=SDTRjuy1pTdckBIc
I have code 106 and 108 the car starts but sounds ruff idling think its map sensor or wire any suggestions ihave changed spark plugs coil packs mass sensor now order map sensor
@@kylebrewer6686 the codes you are getting pertain to the MAP sensor. When those go bad you will get rough idling among other things. Replacing it should solve your issue.
Amazon has back probe pins for this application.
THANKS FOR TESTING M.A.F.SENSER, BUT PLEASE MAKE A VIDEO HOW TO REPPLACE THE M.A.F.SENSER, PLEASE,
I do have videos on how to change it but type vehicle do you have?
I bought a new Maf sensor an it still is giving me the same P0100 code how do I check the connector? Would it the 1st procedure you did?
@@kelvinsmall2552 Yes, the first one. Did you buy and aftermarket one or OEM?
@@PhillipsVision aftermarket from Autozone
It’s for a 2001 Nissan frontier
@@kelvinsmall2552 sometimes those aftermarket parts can be subpar and cause issues. I’ve had good and bad experiences with them. Make sure you are also getting a solid connection when you probe the harness
Would have been better if the video included a test after replacement on same vehicle as well.
Can you try to clean the sensor first?
It looks like there are two 4.9v wires?
i cant keep the motor running it shakes ans dies what can i do ??? thank you
Are you getting any engine codes? Could be the Idle Air Control Valve or a dirty Throttle Body
i get po102 and po113 please help could i have a broken wire some where ?? sensor is brand new throttle valve is brand new@@PhillipsVision
How to clean the MASS AIR FLOW SENSER,CAN YO MAKE A VIDEO ON THAT,
Already did…4 years ago. Here’s the link: ruclips.net/video/rDTWflNHfR8/видео.htmlsi=Rf2ongwwCRy1Lobk
Is it showing an engine check
Don’t Chevy’s use a frequency style maf. Meaning unless your multimeter if set to frequency (hertz) it’ll just get an average measurement making this test inaccurate
Honda Goldwing air flow sensor
Where is the map sensor on a 2006 Goldwing
You are not clear where you finally plug the positive and negative of your multimeter. Not so help full. I know that you plug the positive on the signal but what about the other one?
I had a black wire with 12 volts and a white wire with 4.49 volts or signal wire. Red was my ground. LOL
Since the car won't stay running after starting it, it's difficult to test it. I was hoping for a standardized resistance between the different pins or something like that.
At back probing You show where you connect the red lead of multimeter. Next you say you Connect the multimeter ground to the other....other what ????????? Ground ? Other back probe? Other. What.????
He trying to say in one of the comment that black and red probes are at same yellow wire which is pin no 1..
Yeah I was following right up until he got to the signal wires. 12v battery power and Gnd continuity check made sense. But there was no closeup of the back probing other than showing the first copper wire being inserted on that one pin. Are we to assume the remaining wire that was not a Gnd had a probe inserted and the multimeter was attached to those? Aren't those the air intake temperature sensor leads? On another video, it showed if your MAF has 5 wires, there is an IAT. Was that the case on this or not? There is still some info lacking to me.
@@nadeemmohammed5182Huh?? Black and red probes are at same yellow wire? Not following your comment.
@@amen_ra6926Pretty sure you want to be connected to both signal wires. Which was yellow and orange in his case
This might as well be a rocket
My maf sensor has 8 wire
I have ground in all the cables