I believe I'm speaking for most subscribers here. We need more videos like this one. This is the knowledge we're looking for from your channel and you're great at explaining this stuff
whole heartily agree. Many of your followers likely have a scan tool or use apps like Torque Pro and an ELM based OBD2 scanner. It would be great if your knowledge would teach us to use these tools to the fullest.
Another great video, Ahmed, thank you. 42 year plus retired auto tech here. One thing I would add to the video that I’m sure you are fully aware of. Be aware of any unmeasured air entering the intake, ie cracked or deteriorated air boot between the air box/MAF sensor and throttle body. Poorly installed air boot that may be folded, where connected at either end. Large intake manifold leak, rotted or cracked PCV hose, etc. I know it’s a bit risky, but what I always used was contact cleaner and a very fine tipped artists paint brush to just gently run over the wires, but that was my choice. And be wary of some of these aftermarket performance, air intakes and filters. Thank you once again for your great information to the masses. 😊
Had an intake manifold leak on our 2006 Matrix. I was testing by spritzing carb cleaner around the manifold, but with no defect showing. Then it occured to test with the engine cold. Boom. First squirt at the #2 runner, and fuel trim goes crazy, engine speeds up and then settles down. Ten dollars later and part of a morning in the garage, no more problem.
@@BilgeDweller that's awesome. What about testing it cold makes a difference? And when you say $10, you're referring to the gasket, the intake itself was fine?
I cleaned the MAF and Throttle Body after dealing with a rough idle at deceleration for several years on my ‘12 Highlander with 235,000 miles. The performance and behavior dramatically changed in a positive way. This was a very easy DIY anyone can do with basic tools and patience. Make sure you use the proper solvents designed to clean those parts!
After watching a Scotty Kilmer video about MAF and throttle body cleaning, I just went to the local auto parts store, bought MAF cleaner spray, and carburetor/throttle body spray. All I did was remove the MAF, spray it down with MAF cleaner. Then I let it dry. I did the process 2-3x. Then I sprayed the throttle body with its proper cleaner, and wiped it down with clean cloths. It was filthy. By the time I was done servicing the throttle body, the MAF was completely dry. I then put it all together, and let the car sit overnight. It was the easiest service possible, and it dramatically improved my Corolla’s performance. At the time I had probably 190K miles, and that service was likely never done. Honestly it felt like my little Corolla gained 5 horsepower. The engine ran smoother, it growled more (in a good way), and it had more pep. So thanks Scotty for that video. Also, thanks CCN for going more into depth.
a car that resets itself, funny guy 😅😅 your faultcode disappears after a few miles of driving, but your fuel trims, timing.. will stay messed up untill you do a Kam-reset and force the Ecu to relearn the new sensor.
I meant the ECU adjusts itself to a cleaner throttle body (my check engine light was never on, and the CEL is functional) After cleaning the throttle body, the idle was higher than normal, but driving around for 20 minutes allowed the ECU to compensate, which brought the idle back down to normal. Cleaning my MAF never changed anything because it wasn't dirty to begin with. In hindsight I should have tested it first but I didn't.
I was surprised you didn't mention what you stressed in another video: " Never, Ever buy an aftermarket MAS ", Great Video I did learn something, and thank you.
@@jimbergen5232 if not buying an aftermarket part where do you think you might order OEM (other than from a dealership) Rock Auto, yes, except 3rd gen 4Runner MAF sensors only say TOYOTA on them.
The Car Care Nut is so cool, he has made me become a Vintage Toyota Care Nut servicing my 1993 5 speed 4x4 4Runner with 350,000 miles on the original 3.0(Thank you Amsoil and Amd).🙂
Perfect timing! My wife's 09 Corolla XRS 2.4L threw a 0171 lean code. I test drove it with the scan tool & promptly found the LTFT at 22-31% at idle & low load. It drops to around 9% at WOT over 100MPH. My first thought is a large vacuum leak so I'm going to visually inspect & find a cigar for the smoke test. But first I'll go check the calculated load. With 264K miles it could be anything. It has been a great car & uses about a quart of oil over a 4500-5K mile OCI. All of this in spite of some some severe neglect early on. She once called me to ask what to do about the oil light being on. It was two quarts low! I told her what viscosity to buy and how to put it in and that little 2.4 has run another 200K miles since then. People sometimes badmouth the 2.4 but I believe most of those oil problems were maintenance related. Thank you for another fine video!
Have you considered using Valvoline’s Restore and Protect engine oil? I’m using it in my 2000 Accord with 234,000 miles. Valvoline claims it will free up the piston ring landings thus decreasing engine oil consumption (over a period of 3-4 engine oil changes). The Engine Oil Geek has an instructional video on this subject.
@@subtegral Fast cleaning of a dirty engine is worse as heavy deposits will loosen and possibly block screens, drain back holes etc. If that happens engine tear down is needed. Neglect or high mileage build up can't be reliably cleaned while you wait. The valvoline product has gotten great reviews btw.
Thank you for that simple explanation of how the MAF sensor works. You made it clear that diagnosis is key to doing any repair on a car. I blame Scotty Kilmer as he has purposed the simple solution of cleaning a MAF sensor even before any diagnosis with a scan tool. You made it clear that a MAF sensor shouldn't be touched until a proper diagosis is made. Thanks again for the good advice you give to your viewers.
I believe Scotty generally referred to older cars with less sophisticated or less sensitive MAFs. The ones in Toyotas are ultra sensitive and from what AMD describes need "operating room" conditions to clean.
In 2011 i did my MAF just for the sake of it & no issues at all for (10 yrs on zero issues,2002 Yaris) i did it so everything is tip top & there's nothing to worry about in years to come, why wait for the CEL (Check Engine Light) to come on then you gotta resolve it but in the meantime the engine may be putting in more fuel which nobody wants.
Yes something so small!! I cleaned it and the throttle body in my daughter’s old 2012 Sienna and she asked if I replaced the engine, the improvements were that noticeable!!
Not a Toyota owner, have a Honda excellent tip! I recently went to the dealer where I bought the car in 2004 and they were trying to sell me throttle body cleaning, brake fluid replacement, power steering fluid flush and also add fuel injector cleaner. I am convinced that they didn’t examine the condition of the fluids but based their recommendations on the mileage of my Honda Element 242,000. Only problem I had the power steering high pressure hose at a local repair shop that I trust, brake fluid my son (slave on notice) replaced as well as new rotors, pads and one seized caliper. When I mentioned it to the service person they had no answer. I routinely add fuel injector cleaner to my car, especially when I am driving long distance. Thanks so much for your tip, just saved me some $$
An oiled air filter such as K&N can foul the MAF sensor if it introduces oil droplets in the inlet air. Happened to my Toyota Avalon after installing a K&N filter. I went back to a standard (dry) filter and had no further issues.
The oil is only supposed to be applied (if you’re cleaning it) on one specific side and not the internal side going to the MAF. The oil assists in trapping the particulates but some people will clean and then oil it on the wrong side - leading to aforementioned problem. I’m not denying what you said but this is just a fact they try to emphasize with the cleaning and maintenance and wanted this to be known to everyone out there. I have a K&N filter on my ‘18 Camry without any issues.
I too have not experienced any issues with oiled air filters. I have a feeling these issues are mostly user error. In fairness, it's easy to screw up re-oiling, hence why people have problems with them. Also people tend to clean K&N filters too often. They work better when then have some dust and dirt in them. You really can just leave it alone for a surprisingly long time. They have a much larger capacity for dirt and dust than a paper filter before they clog.
My perfect source information when it comes to automotive maintenance and repair. Appreciate what you do AMD. You're indeed a blessing to all of us especially to all aspiring DYI'ers.
Wow, this is a wake up call! As I found out, after buying my 2001 Camry, that the previous owner had driven it w/o air filter! Gonna inspect that MAF sensor right away,just visually to begin with . Thank you, Ahmed!
Great video! I don't DIY (much), but do own a Toyota and find these videos fascinating. Mostly i just like understanding what is going on with my 4Runner. Thank you so much for giving of your time!
Incredibly valuable info, thanks AMD! I look forward to each new video you produce. One thing I’d like to see is a video dedicated to scan tools and scan apps that Toyota owners can buy. There are so many that it’s difficult to know which ones will sufficiently diagnose the issues we may come across with our beloved Toyotas.
Thank you. You and my $25 ancel ad310 just saved me from purchasing a new MAFS (the new style). My fuel economy dropped recently and I believed the MAFS was the culprit. My "load" hits 100% when fully revved during acceleration.
Geat video. I bought my RX330 with 215,000 miles on it. The previous owner had good service records and i see his old garage cleaned the MAF every 50,000 or so. I just took my cheapo scan tool and did the test. At pedal to the metal, Calculated Load was 100-97%! Life is good! Thanks CCN.
I wish I lived closer to you! I’ve got a 2012 Tacoma with 404,000 kms on it. I’ve done all the basic maintenance as problems came up but I’ve never changed any fluids or checked any sensors. If I brought it to the Toyota dealership I bought it from……they’d say everything needs to be replaced!
Thank you for your utmost in-depth videos of every aspect of the way cars are made from the past and present times. It goes to show car manufacturers are not so squeaky clean and honest with its loyal customers. No such thing as loyalty anymore. Keep it up Ahmed and thank you once again. 🙏
Man I love watching your videos you inspire me as a tech to take on challenging jobs and later become a toyota/lexus master tech.thank you so much for the constant flow of information
Yes. I do think it's good practice to clean the MAF sensor. I do mine on my cars once a year. I found a bug wing on the one in my 2000 trans am. A few 1-second burst of some MAF cleaner. Boom! Done
Last year, I was getting a "lean" code on my 2002 1MZ-FE Highlander. Cleaned the MAF but code came back. I found Toyota Technical Support Bulletin EG-5014, followed the procedure, and found the long term fuel trims for both banks were out of spec. The MAF data (g/sec) was also out of spec per the procedure, indicating a bad sensor. Replaced it and life is good.
I love your videos. I do learn from you. That said, as an electronic tech in Aerospace I used to own a 2002 Camry. I actually cleaned (yes, I removed the siliconed cover) the pot/wiper. This was a delicate spray cleaning and it worked for just over two years before replacement.
Thank you again, Ahmed! My 1999 SC400 with 206,000 miles just started with the CEL yesterday. I looked at the codes, and saw it was the mass airflow sensor.
😳 what are the odds that I'm having this problem right now at this very moment and I'm having lean codes P0171 and I'm trying to pass the emission test and this video pops up😄 Thank you for this video it's like my prayers have been answered 🙏
I am in job service department Toyota Indus motor company here in Karachi port qasim car esammbally plant.. your all videos I am see your experience and explain any faults is very easy .. thanks
Ahmed, I would like to thank you for all the input you gave regarding the MAF sensor, I was expecting the MAF sensor for my wife's Corolla which was having an issue and nobody could nail and isolate the issue. Changed the sensor, it took 4 days for the ECU to adjust and now it's working. The main issue was that it idled very rough when starting and once in operating temperature the idle improved.
According to my The Factory Service manual for my 2007 Camry--- HINT: When any of these DTCs are set, check the air-flow rate by entering the following menus on the intelligent tester: DIAGNOSIS / ENHANCED OBD II / DATA LIST / PRIMARY / MAF. if the airflow rate reads 0.0 grams per second (gm/s); there is an open in Mass Air Flow (MAF) meter power source circuit or an open or short in VG circuit. If the airflow reads 271.0 or more gm/s, there is an open in the EVG circuit. The error codes related to MAF are P0100, P0102 and P0103 on my 2007 Camry. I don't know if Toyota uses different codes for each of their car models.
You are the Best Teach and explain the most simple way That any diy mechanic will understand I love to learn diagnostics Before replacing the parts Again thank you And we need more videos like this
This video is perfectly timed. I’m having doubts about the MAF sensor on my 2021 RAV4 with 74k miles on it. Haven’t really started any checks/diagnostics, and there is no check engine light. The car runs fine, but once in a while it’ll do rattling type vibration at idle, similar to the engine not getting enough fuel. Hopefully it’s just the sensor, and all it needs is a cleaning.
@@vw5056 Thanks for the tip. I suppose I can take out the spark plugs and inspect them. Didn't think about it since I know that modern cars go about 100k miles before needing spark plugs. Then again, nothing is written in the stone and each car/situation is different...
Wow. Thanks. I now understand what the Load value from my Scan Gauge is indicating. I hit over 95% towing. I try to cruise below 90%. Plus, I will leave my Mazda 3 MAF alone as it still runs great at 60K. Significant power restoration at 80K 2016 4Runner with MAF airflow cleaner spray by me. Was sluggish since about 60K.
@@subtegral ~Don't buy OE or OEM parts from the dealer. Find out who the OE manufacturer is for the particular part, and buy that OEM brand part from a trusted auto parts retailer. Same part, same manufacturer for less money. It just won't have "Toyota" embossed on the part. In fact on some OEM parts you can see where the automakers brand was ground off. (For anybody who doesn't know, OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer.)
You teach me something I never knew before... almost every video you post... really amazing, your depth of knowledge... 💯 - I am going to check this in all of my cars ...NOW !!
With all due respect when all the advertisements come on the amount of audio volume is at least twice as much than during your video .Either way the difference in audio volume is astronomical compare to all othe you tube videos.Love your channel and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I should also say I have a very powerful home theater system and it scare the bejesus out of me when the comercial came on because your audio was too low and I had picked up the volume.
@@latin4ujr this was a known issue with some videos. The video after this one the issue is resolved. Sorry about that but it is resolved going forward. For those affected videos if you switch from 5.1 audio to stereo the volume will be normal
Hey Ahmed, we met at the meetup back in August . I told you how before I knew any better, my Lexus ISF was stalling randomly. Took it to the dealer and they diagnosed a faulty alternator, and charged me $2000 to replace it (I didn't know any better). Didn't fix the problem, and through internet research I found all I needed to do was clean the MAF. $10 CRC MAF cleaner and very easy work fixed the problem. That experience radicalized me into learning more about how cars work and how to fix them. When I get another 2UR GSE, it's coming to your shop! As well as my grandparents' 20,000 mile 2000 Camry V6 that they will give me when they are done driving.
I drive a 20 year old Avalon. There is no set time for cleaning or replacement the Mass air filter. May be lifetime. However some sites would say replace every 80,000 - 150,000 miles. I did not know about scans, and I don't have a second person to go on a road test. It is easy to take it out and clean it. It is potentially very easy to damage. I cleaned it a few times and finally replaced it. I probably will not replace it again during the lifetime of the car. Yes, you have to keep track of things. I have free lifetime alignment. I replaced the 4 strut assemblies on Tuesday. I went to the national car service store and had the alignment done for free. And, received a recommendation to replace the air filter and to clean the throttle body . Of course, I last inspected the air filter about two months ago and have an OEM unit in inventory which does not cost the $40 that the service store would charge. The throttle body was last cleaned 8000 miles ago! What we need is direction on cleaning the catalytic converter. Mine is bolted on and not welded. Even a weld can be cut and redone. My understanding is one can clean it is a solution of dish washing liquid soap with a lot of water, dry and re-install. What do you do?
Hi there. Thank you for this video. I started fixing my car after seeing these videos and learned a lot. Also, I was planning on cleaning the MAF sensor but didn't know what to do and etc. But thanks to this now I know. Thank you!
For so long, have been experiencing near engine stalling during acceleration from idle on my 2002 Corolla. I will just press more on gas pedal to compensate the engine hiccups. I initially thought of dirty fuel filter. My mechanic troubledshoot by replacing the MAF sensor with the MAF sensors of other Toyotas in his garage. Walahh, turned out the MAF sensor is the culprit despite cleaning it. Replaced it with a second hand unit. Now car runs so much better.
I know someone that was always getting a new MAF every two - three years. Guess why? He ran those gimmicky K&N Oiled filters. The oil will coat the MAF and attract dirt and corrode. Cleaning is only temporary unless you go back to OEM filtration. Aftermarket only want your money.
@@ishaqthkr they are pointless. I supercharged my civic and I left the stock intake and panel filter. If I can pull enough air to run 9Lbs of boost through the stock filter, the stock filter flows plenty of air and there is no reason to change it out for a high flow filter.
@@volvo09 there you go, it depends on vehicle to vehicle, i have a diesel Toyota and a High flow filter works better than paper filter. And the jury is out there where paper filter actually captured less dust than High flow when compared on the clean side on an airbox
I have tried them over the years Depends on what type your using the big round one's with the intake horn does decrease the differential pressure across the filter... The drop in K&N filters just terrible stick with the OEM.. oiling can be an issue too especially to the more sensitive air flow meters
Thanks for the great content. Directly from Brasil where we lack this expertise. Btw I followed your videos for servicing my Toyota Etios and it's been better then ever
Thank you so much for this video AMD! Long time watcher/subscriber first time commenter. My 99 4Runner has felt sluggish for a while. I used the torque app to see I was only getting upper 70s % engine load @ wot, no change after cleaning so replaced the maf with a new denso one and instantly got mid-90s % engine load. Feels like a new truck again! 99 4Runner V6 5vzfe 285k miles
Great info! I’ve got a 1999 and a 2001 and have never had an issue with the MAF. Never looked at them or cleaned them. Great to know how to test them though. I wouldn’t have thought about the calculated load reading. Thanks.
THANK YOU! You pretty much saved me from making a fool of myself. 🙂 When our 2006 Matrix had about 75K miles on it, i found the section in the manual that I have about cleaning these. Hmm. Never did it, didn't know about it. So, I got a can of CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner and did a cautious couple of spritzes of the hot wires. That was it. Reinstalled it and was quite surprised at the boost in performance! So, immediately, the mind goes to should I do this at each oil change, or no? Luckily, I let it slide, and now I have a way to diagnose it; even my $40 code reader will display live data, so CHECKING IT when I do the next oil change is on the agenda. Thanks again.
Of all your videos that have helped me, this one has taken it to another level for me! I put the wrong oil on my k&n air filter and burned through 2 of these (2011 RAV4) before I realised what was causing it. Ive since fixed the filter problem but just this week I've had another fail in me. I was feeling so down because I couldn't understand why they keep failing. 0 MAF sensors for 11 years then 3 in 2 years 😢 But your description of how delicate they are helped me understand. I've been buying 2nd hand replacements coz genuine new MAF sensors are a bit pricey in Australia. But worth the expense if it stops the problem. Thankyou, Thankyou, Thankyou!! May the true God bless you for your helpful spirit 🙏
Those K&N style filters are junk. The only way it increases airflow is by decreasing filter performance. Just get a good quality paper filter and replace repeatedly. No more issues with MAF and better longevity with your engine.
God bless this man even greater for his detailed info than just trying to gain subscribers. I have learned more with His information than anything I can look up on the web. More power to him.
Thanks for your advice. I had exactly this issue recently. Treated my car to new plugs and coils (was only going to do plugs, but there was a special offer on both - for proper Japanese NGKs, not Chinese cheapies) and started getting lean mixture codes. I figured the new plugs and coils (the old coils were originals from 2003) were burning the fuel more efficiently, as the car was noticeably livelier. Put injector cleaner through the system and spray cleaned the MAF sensor, but it still wasn't happy, so replaced the sensor (with an OEM Denso one) and the car runs like new. Considering the original MAF sensor had lasted 125,000 miles, I reckon I got my money's worth from it.
I have a 2011 Sequoia with 250,000 miles. I cleaned the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner at 200k as well as the throttle body (which was shockingly clean) and haven't had any issues. I'll be buying a new OEM one though just to avoid any future issues. Spending $100 every 250K isn't too bad haha.
Thanks for the head-up on the new MAFs. I have them in both of my Toyotas. No issues but it is good to know that they are not cleanable if there is an issue.
Another great video! Many thanks for all the useful information you share on your channel. Admire your dedication, God bless! BTW... Jose does a great job editing as well! Thank you!
I thought my MAF was bad but the car never threw a code. The car runs okay but it wasn’t the same, especially at first startup, (engine stumbles). I didn’t want to throw parts at it as well. I’ve spray cleaned in the past. I tested my sensor and readings showed bad. 76.1% was my calc load at full throttle. Idle read between 15% to 25%, but jumped above 25% a few times. Time for a new sensor. Thank you for the helpful video sir! 2005 Camry 4 cyl w/ 210K
Thanks for a really informative video because I am no expert and usuallly leave this stuff to my mechanic. There is a different setup of course on my 2011 GH Mazda 6 Hatchback but the principal is just the same and I have noticed when my mechanic has cleaned the throttle body which I believe has this MAF in it the car's performance and economy is immediately and noticeably improved. However, this is a good warning for those of us who will attempt to work on this vital piece of our car's anatomy. Oh and I just saw that your name was Ahmed in another comment so good to put a name to the face as being in Australia we tend to go by given names more often than not😉.
You are coming exactly with the video for what I believe need for my 2015 jetta. Start having a misfire, I blame the ignition coil. But I think this could be the problem becoze epc light come one. Thanks for making videos
I will be honest to you. I cleaned my "not so dirty" MAF sensor yesterday. "Just in case". "They all" say: Clean the sensor. Then this very likeable guy comes into my flow and say no, dont clean. And it all makes sense! Calculate load - Check. I have DIY cars for over 20 years. Thats a LOT of unnecessary cleaning folks! Thank you!
Thanks for putting this out. I have a 2007 Camry with 181,000 miles (That didn't get the engine piston ring rebuild unfortunately) that started having problems with the motor a couple of months ago. When I was driving home from work, the Camry started losing power to the engine after I floored the gas a couple of times for a brief few seconds. Suddenly the car had trouble delivering power above 1500-2000 RPM. I could barely reach 45 MPH and had a difficult time getting the car up small hilly roads. the engine also started making a knocking sound. My friend brought his computer to diagnose it, but the only code we were getting was P0420: catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank 1). He recommend that I replace the O2 sensor. I went to Autozone to buy one, and after telling the workers at the store what happened, he said I should also clean the mass airflow sensor. I bought a can of CRC mass airflow sensor cleaner and cleaned it myself. But now that you mention in the video how delicate it that sensor is, I wonder if I cleaned it properly. The can comes with a plastic red straw, and I sprayed directly at the sensor. The Camry started running fine again after replacing the O2 sensor and cleaning the mass airflow sensor, but the engine problem came back up again 1 and a half months later, but not as severe. This time the engine power would drop and sputter if I pressed the gas to get the engine to run above 2000 to 2500 RPM. I replaced the spark plug plugs with a Denso Iridium set and reset the computer a second time. But I'm leaning towards replacing the mass airflow sensor after watching this informative video. Thanks!
Oil burner Camry. Your exhaust is clogged at the converter. Hook up pressure gauges and you'll see a few psi drop across the converter during idle. A new converter will clog again due to oil burning engine. Replace the converter with a straight pipe if your state does not do emission test or tear down the engine to replace the oil control piston rings.
Ahmed, I clean mine every other couple of oil changes, not only on the ISF, but the Subaru two with the appropriate cleaner from CRC…. At the same time while I’m in there, I clean throttle bodies. I do notice a difference, I do clean it lightly and let it dry, but now after watching this video, I think I will stop and try your method. Thank you.
Awesome tip! I own a 2006 Toyota Highland Hybrid and two Hondas. I'm going to do the CALC test on all my cars to get a good working baseline reading in order to compare with future CALC readings as the years go by.
A great tip for MAF testing and cleaning. If I can find a tip in your collection for a 2015 sienna sliding door that won’t open and close properly then I’ll be set for a good while since I’ve already watched your video on the cable replacement which doesn’t fit the symptoms for my situation. Finding the proper title is half the battle.
My 1990 BMW with a mechanical air flow meter still runs like a champ. (Sorry, I have to confess that I am a BMW owner that listens religiously to the CCN channel).
My lambda sensors both fired up the dash Christmas tree on my 06 Lexus is250. Break cleaner (German quality) on the MAF cleaned it, and the lambdas were happy again (Christmas tree off), however stuttering and "lag" on the gas got heavy after cleaning. After thinking about it, that made sense. The ECU was used to the dirty sensor and now confused. Neg battery off -- 15 min -- neg battery on. All good.
Another excellent video for the diy troubleshooter. Our 2002 Camry with 103k miles just got a P0171 code. I followed your steps with scanner. Staring CL was around 50 at brisk acceleration. Pulled MAF and cleaned per your instructions and it went up to a best of 79 with 2nd cleaning. Would you go ahead and just replace it at this point? Thanks for all you do for us and have a Merry Christmas.
Yes, I’m surprised he didn’t mention MAF cleaner specifically to be used. He mentioned electrical cleaner (and god forbid brake clean) but I wouldn’t personally feel comfortable using basic electrical cleaner. I’ll assume CRC has both for a reason. Use the right product, it’s pretty delicate.
Mr. Ahmed I’ve learned so much from your videos! Can you please make a video on Toyota coolant bypass valve issue? I have a 20’ Corolla and I’ve read it’s an issue across a couple platforms. Much appreciated!
Hmmmm...I have a '98 4R (5VZ-FE) and have a ScanGaugeIII on the dash.....I can't find 'Calculated Load'...but I do have an 'Engine Load' readout...is this possibly the same (or not)? Love this channel....learn a LOT every time I watch.
The one with the moveable vane was known as a Vane Air Meter and often had a Intake Air Sensor, and in some a fuel pump switch as well. The rest you speak of is true.
Thank you Mr. TCCN for your "tutorial" vids. I prefer working on my own cars/trucks as much as possible. I have a 2019 3.5 Tacoma that was attacked by a rat. The rat cut the injector wires. Now i am looking for a good shop manual for this model. Is there a good one out there with detailed information? Again, thanks for all the good info you post.
Great tip. This is the first video that anyone has mentioned calculated load to determine the sensor's efficiency. I would think that the wrong cleaner may even contaminate the sensor by leaving a film on it?
Hey AMD, love your videos, best car channel I've come across on youtube for real, sending love from the middle east. Would really love if you did a video about high fuel consumption issues in Toyota & Lexus and how to properly diagnose them and fix them, Thanks!!!
I had an after market MAF installed and I noticed my MPG's dropped by almost 5 mpg per tankful. At the same time, I notice an uptick in speed and accelaration. Also read that you should only replace with OEM only.
Great video. Your knowledge is much appreciated. One thing though about testing the MAF sensor. When i floored the accelerator to see if I can get the calculated load up to 85 or 90 percent, it only got to 91 for a split second and instantly dropped down with a slight reduction in throttle. That's normal right? Thank you.
One think that should be mention for calculated load. At sea level, calculated load can be close to or even 100%. But at higher altitude, will start to drop. So seeing 78% calculated load at a 7000 ft above sea level can be normal.
if it goes bad always use the same brand as the OEM supplier. I picked one up from the parts store one time and the car ran ok. later on after doing some mods and ECU flash I picked up a used OEM Hitachi brand one at a salvage yard and it made a huge difference. right away the idle was way more stable and the engine was definitely more responsive and felt more powerful.
I have a 2000 Camry LE 2.2L. If I'm at a red light when turns green it doesn't speed up well. The MAF sensor could be the original MAF sensor. The Camry was given to me by my late cousin it was his father's Camry. I've work on the Camry myself those things I can work on and repair myself. I don't trust the mechanics where I live. If they think they can put one over on you they will. I'm not that kind of person not by a long shot. Thank much for your video and God Bless.
My 2011 toyota is having rough idle at the cold start, that is why i am here. I don't know what scan tool you are referring to partly because in my country there is not many car parts stores which sell those items. So, i am going to clean the sensor anyway.
IMO when it comes to things like MAF sesnsors, only clean them if they're causing problems (idle issues, etc), and use cleaner designed for MAF sensors or delicate electronics that doesn't leave residue or otherwise damage the sensor (don't use break clean, which I have seen people do). I did clean mine on my Toyota once, nothing bad happened, but it didn't help the idle issue (later found out it was actually carbon build-up so running some concentrated fuel injector cleaner with PEA fixed the issue, but at least I have a clean MAF sensor now).
Hi Bro, I am from India and regulary watch your channel, Trust me this is perhaps the most authentic and informative videos. I ahve a confusion - Can i use 5w30 instead of 0w20 in my honda city (1.5 Litre NA) ?? is it better or stick to 0w20 ..Temperature at my place rarely go less than 2 degree Celcius.but higher side ambient temperature goes around 45 degree Cel. .. pls help
My last project before I sold my 4Runner was to clean up the intake box, throttle body and MAF because we went off roading so often in a 40k mile period but I never got to do it. Pretty sure it would’ve improved dramatically, because it was somewhat dragging in performance even though it’s already slow… it was even slower.
Got a yellow engine light that has come on a couple of times on the 24-year-old Corolla I have. Cleaning the maf sensor works great. Last time it was P0141 code. I did cleaning and reset. After all, this is the only engine problem I've had with the toyota, so I'll survive 😁
This is very informative. Since recently buying my 2018 RX350, I changed the filter to a K&N and cleaned the MAF with a CRC MAF cleaner. The car started choking under full load. I replaced it to OEM paper filter it still chokes while under full load a little and then it seems to start readjusting to prevent choking. Is it possible that the preoiled K&N filter contributed to this problem? I am not sure how well the MAF sensor on the 2GRFKS engines responds to K&N filters so would be interested to hear from you and others regarding their experiences to determine if I need to return it. Thanks
I believe I'm speaking for most subscribers here. We need more videos like this one. This is the knowledge we're looking for from your channel and you're great at explaining this stuff
whole heartily agree. Many of your followers likely have a scan tool or use apps like Torque Pro and an ELM based OBD2 scanner. It would be great if your knowledge would teach us to use these tools to the fullest.
Every video on this channel is well worth watching but so far, less than 3% of subscribers have bothered to watch this one. 🤔
Yesss, specifically for the 4Runner.. asking for a friend😂
@@ryanm4319😂 😂
am lost, have a 2009 Avalon, never heard of this, had any maintenance to it by my dealers. should I be worried or just keep driving?
Another great video, Ahmed, thank you. 42 year plus retired auto tech here. One thing I would add to the video that I’m sure you are fully aware of. Be aware of any unmeasured air entering the intake, ie cracked or deteriorated air boot between the air box/MAF sensor and throttle body. Poorly installed air boot that may be folded, where connected at either end. Large intake manifold leak, rotted or cracked PCV hose, etc. I know it’s a bit risky, but what I always used was contact cleaner and a very fine tipped artists paint brush to just gently run over the wires, but that was my choice. And be wary of some of these aftermarket performance, air intakes and filters. Thank you once again for your great information to the masses. 😊
Yep
Had an intake manifold leak on our 2006 Matrix. I was testing by spritzing carb cleaner around the manifold, but with no defect showing. Then it occured to test with the engine cold. Boom. First squirt at the #2 runner, and fuel trim goes crazy, engine speeds up and then settles down. Ten dollars later and part of a morning in the garage, no more problem.
@@BilgeDweller that's awesome. What about testing it cold makes a difference? And when you say $10, you're referring to the gasket, the intake itself was fine?
I cleaned the MAF and Throttle Body after dealing with a rough idle at deceleration for several years on my ‘12 Highlander with 235,000 miles. The performance and behavior dramatically changed in a positive way. This was a very easy DIY anyone can do with basic tools and patience. Make sure you use the proper solvents designed to clean those parts!
Yes, proper solvents is a must & only MAF cleaner/electrical cleaner as Amd mentioned in the video.
This is so awsome..
Thanks bud
The 'Calculate Load' tip is gold. Thank you for sharing!👍
He said "calculated".
@@subtegral Yes he did. I was talking about the parameter shown on the scan tool @8:35
After watching a Scotty Kilmer video about MAF and throttle body cleaning, I just went to the local auto parts store, bought MAF cleaner spray, and carburetor/throttle body spray.
All I did was remove the MAF, spray it down with MAF cleaner. Then I let it dry. I did the process 2-3x. Then I sprayed the throttle body with its proper cleaner, and wiped it down with clean cloths. It was filthy. By the time I was done servicing the throttle body, the MAF was completely dry. I then put it all together, and let the car sit overnight.
It was the easiest service possible, and it dramatically improved my Corolla’s performance. At the time I had probably 190K miles, and that service was likely never done.
Honestly it felt like my little Corolla gained 5 horsepower. The engine ran smoother, it growled more (in a good way), and it had more pep.
So thanks Scotty for that video.
Also, thanks CCN for going more into depth.
Last year I cleaned out my throttle body with CRC throttle body cleaner and this year I cleaned my MAF with CRC MAF cleaner. All is well.
Dont forget to reset the Ecu after cleaning/replacing this sensor !
@@scottykilmer3920 I drove it around for twenty minutes and it reset itself.
a car that resets itself, funny guy 😅😅
your faultcode disappears after a few miles of driving, but your fuel trims, timing.. will stay messed up untill you do a Kam-reset and force the Ecu to relearn the new sensor.
I meant the ECU adjusts itself to a cleaner throttle body (my check engine light was never on, and the CEL is functional)
After cleaning the throttle body, the idle was higher than normal, but driving around for 20 minutes allowed the ECU to compensate, which brought the idle back down to normal.
Cleaning my MAF never changed anything because it wasn't dirty to begin with. In hindsight I should have tested it first but I didn't.
I was surprised you didn't mention what you stressed in another video: " Never, Ever buy an aftermarket MAS ", Great Video I did learn something, and thank you.
Okay.
So if your dealerships wanted $870 for a MAF sensor you would just pay it?
@@subtegral You replied to the wrong person, because I didn't say anything to the sort. This is a DIY program.
@@jimbergen5232 if not buying an aftermarket part where do you think you might order OEM (other than from a dealership) Rock Auto, yes, except 3rd gen 4Runner MAF sensors only say TOYOTA on them.
@@subtegral Dealer ? Ok, you win, I am wrong. Have a great afternoon.
@@subtegralYes, this is one of those parts you absolutely should.
Most are ~$150 though.
The Car Care Nut is so cool, he has made me become a Vintage Toyota Care Nut servicing my 1993 5 speed 4x4 4Runner with 350,000 miles on the original 3.0(Thank you Amsoil and Amd).🙂
Perfect timing! My wife's 09 Corolla XRS 2.4L threw a 0171 lean code. I test drove it with the scan tool & promptly found the LTFT at 22-31% at idle & low load. It drops to around 9% at WOT over 100MPH. My first thought is a large vacuum leak so I'm going to visually inspect & find a cigar for the smoke test. But first I'll go check the calculated load. With 264K miles it could be anything. It has been a great car & uses about a quart of oil over a 4500-5K mile OCI. All of this in spite of some some severe neglect early on. She once called me to ask what to do about the oil light being on. It was two quarts low! I told her what viscosity to buy and how to put it in and that little 2.4 has run another 200K miles since then. People sometimes badmouth the 2.4 but I believe most of those oil problems were maintenance related. Thank you for another fine video!
Have you considered using Valvoline’s Restore and Protect engine oil? I’m using it in my 2000 Accord with 234,000 miles. Valvoline claims it will free up the piston ring landings thus decreasing engine oil consumption (over a period of 3-4 engine oil changes). The Engine Oil Geek has an instructional video on this subject.
There's a complete oil system cleaner that will clean out everything in 8 minutes flat.
@@subtegral Fast cleaning of a dirty engine is worse as heavy deposits will loosen and possibly block screens, drain back holes etc. If that happens engine tear down is needed. Neglect or high mileage build up can't be reliably cleaned while you wait. The valvoline product has gotten great reviews btw.
I really enjoy how humble and basic your channel and knowledge is, please dont change. Thank you
Thank you for that simple explanation of how the MAF sensor works. You made it clear that diagnosis is key to doing any repair on a car. I blame Scotty Kilmer as he has purposed the simple solution of cleaning a MAF sensor even before any diagnosis with a scan tool. You made it clear that a MAF sensor shouldn't be touched until a proper diagosis is made. Thanks again for the good advice you give to your viewers.
I believe Scotty generally referred to older cars with less sophisticated or less sensitive MAFs. The ones in Toyotas are ultra sensitive and from what AMD describes need "operating room" conditions to clean.
Great advice. Cleaning the MAP was on my DIY "just because" list but I wasn't having any engine issues. I'm going to leave it alone.
In 2011 i did my MAF just for the sake of it & no issues at all for (10 yrs on zero issues,2002 Yaris) i did it so everything is tip top & there's nothing to worry about in years to come, why wait for the CEL (Check Engine Light) to come on then you gotta resolve it but in the meantime the engine may be putting in more fuel which nobody wants.
@@tardeliesmagic you're missing the point. You could have tested your MAF sensor in 2011 before bothering to remove and clean it, but you didn't.
@@subtegral Case in point. I don't even know what it's called so I shouldn't be messing with it.
MAP sensor is another one.
Mainly seen on turbo charged cars.
Yes something so small!! I cleaned it and the throttle body in my daughter’s old 2012 Sienna and she asked if I replaced the engine, the improvements were that noticeable!!
lol amazing what little dirt removal does to the engine
Not a Toyota owner, have a Honda excellent tip! I recently went to the dealer where I bought the car in 2004 and they were trying to sell me throttle body cleaning, brake fluid replacement, power steering fluid flush and also add fuel injector cleaner. I am convinced that they didn’t examine the condition of the fluids but based their recommendations on the mileage of my Honda Element 242,000. Only problem I had the power steering high pressure hose at a local repair shop that I trust, brake fluid my son (slave on notice) replaced as well as new rotors, pads and one seized caliper. When I mentioned it to the service person they had no answer. I routinely add fuel injector cleaner to my car, especially when I am driving long distance. Thanks so much for your tip, just saved me some $$
An oiled air filter such as K&N can foul the MAF sensor if it introduces oil droplets in the inlet air. Happened to my Toyota Avalon after installing a K&N filter. I went back to a standard (dry) filter and had no further issues.
The oil is only supposed to be applied (if you’re cleaning it) on one specific side and not the internal side going to the MAF. The oil assists in trapping the particulates but some people will clean and then oil it on the wrong side - leading to aforementioned problem.
I’m not denying what you said but this is just a fact they try to emphasize with the cleaning and maintenance and wanted this to be known to everyone out there. I have a K&N filter on my ‘18 Camry without any issues.
I too have not experienced any issues with oiled air filters. I have a feeling these issues are mostly user error. In fairness, it's easy to screw up re-oiling, hence why people have problems with them. Also people tend to clean K&N filters too often. They work better when then have some dust and dirt in them. You really can just leave it alone for a surprisingly long time. They have a much larger capacity for dirt and dust than a paper filter before they clog.
@@kiefershanks4172 I’m also very lazy with the maintenance and this is probably why it works so great after a few years, haha.
Thanks for sharing.
My perfect source information when it comes to automotive maintenance and repair. Appreciate what you do AMD. You're indeed a blessing to all of us especially to all aspiring DYI'ers.
Wow, this is a wake up call! As I found out, after buying my 2001 Camry, that the previous owner had driven it w/o air filter! Gonna inspect that MAF sensor right away,just visually to begin with . Thank you, Ahmed!
Great video! I don't DIY (much), but do own a Toyota and find these videos fascinating. Mostly i just like understanding what is going on with my 4Runner. Thank you so much for giving of your time!
Incredibly valuable info, thanks AMD! I look forward to each new video you produce.
One thing I’d like to see is a video dedicated to scan tools and scan apps that Toyota owners can buy. There are so many that it’s difficult to know which ones will sufficiently diagnose the issues we may come across with our beloved Toyotas.
Thank you. You and my $25 ancel ad310 just saved me from purchasing a new MAFS (the new style). My fuel economy dropped recently and I believed the MAFS was the culprit. My "load" hits 100% when fully revved during acceleration.
Geat video. I bought my RX330 with 215,000 miles on it. The previous owner had good service records and i see his old garage cleaned the MAF every 50,000 or so. I just took my cheapo scan tool and did the test. At pedal to the metal, Calculated Load was 100-97%! Life is good! Thanks CCN.
It shouldn't be that high. He said between 80% to 89%
What should I do? Dirty it up?
😅@@samhoskins8706
I wish I lived closer to you! I’ve got a 2012 Tacoma with 404,000 kms on it. I’ve done all the basic maintenance as problems came up but I’ve never changed any fluids or checked any sensors. If I brought it to the Toyota dealership I bought it from……they’d say everything needs to be replaced!
They're not wrong
Well yeah, you suck at maintaing a vehicle 😂😂😂😂
Learn to maintain a toyota
Even IF you did live in Chicagoland, like I do, the chances of getting a car to TCCN's shop are slim. That dude has a BUSY shop! : )
Thank you for your utmost in-depth videos of every aspect of the way cars are made from the past and present times. It goes to show car manufacturers are not so squeaky clean and honest with its loyal customers. No such thing as loyalty anymore. Keep it up Ahmed and thank you once again. 🙏
Man I love watching your videos you inspire me as a tech to take on challenging jobs and later become a toyota/lexus master tech.thank you so much for the constant flow of information
Yes. I do think it's good practice to clean the MAF sensor. I do mine on my cars once a year. I found a bug wing on the one in my 2000 trans am. A few 1-second burst of some MAF cleaner. Boom! Done
Last year, I was getting a "lean" code on my 2002 1MZ-FE Highlander. Cleaned the MAF but code came back. I found Toyota Technical Support Bulletin EG-5014, followed the procedure, and found the long term fuel trims for both banks were out of spec. The MAF data (g/sec) was also out of spec per the procedure, indicating a bad sensor. Replaced it and life is good.
Fuel trims can tell a lot. One of the first things to check for air or fuel issues.
Did you lose anything else such as time cost add salon
@@sofiaisaac50 not sure I understand your question
I love your videos. I do learn from you. That said, as an electronic tech in Aerospace I used to own a 2002 Camry. I actually cleaned (yes, I removed the siliconed cover) the pot/wiper. This was a delicate spray cleaning and it worked for just over two years before replacement.
Thank you again, Ahmed! My 1999 SC400 with 206,000 miles just started with the CEL yesterday. I looked at the codes, and saw it was the mass airflow sensor.
😳 what are the odds that I'm having this problem right now at this very moment and I'm having lean codes P0171 and I'm trying to pass the emission test and this video pops up😄
Thank you for this video it's like my prayers have been answered 🙏
Watch fuel trim videos a maf is only one of multiple possibilities
I am in job service department Toyota Indus motor company here in Karachi port qasim car esammbally plant.. your all videos I am see your experience and explain any faults is very easy .. thanks
MashaAllah bhaijan, Allah apko aur kamyabi de, Salam from UAE!
Ahmed, I would like to thank you for all the input you gave regarding the MAF sensor, I was expecting the MAF sensor for my wife's Corolla which was having an issue and nobody could nail and isolate the issue. Changed the sensor, it took 4 days for the ECU to adjust and now it's working. The main issue was that it idled very rough when starting and once in operating temperature the idle improved.
7:30 I don't know Ahmed, my Toyota factory service manual lists the specs for grams per second mass air flow rate.
According to my The Factory Service manual for my 2007 Camry--- HINT: When any of these DTCs are set, check the air-flow rate by entering the following menus on the intelligent
tester: DIAGNOSIS / ENHANCED OBD II / DATA LIST / PRIMARY / MAF. if the airflow rate reads 0.0 grams per second (gm/s); there is an open in Mass Air Flow (MAF) meter power source circuit or an open or short in VG circuit. If the airflow reads 271.0 or more gm/s, there is an open in the EVG circuit.
The error codes related to MAF are P0100, P0102 and P0103 on my 2007 Camry. I don't know if Toyota uses different codes for each of their car models.
You are the Best
Teach and explain the most simple way
That any diy mechanic will understand
I love to learn diagnostics
Before replacing the parts
Again thank you
And we need more videos like this
This video is perfectly timed. I’m having doubts about the MAF sensor on my 2021 RAV4 with 74k miles on it. Haven’t really started any checks/diagnostics, and there is no check engine light. The car runs fine, but once in a while it’ll do rattling type vibration at idle, similar to the engine not getting enough fuel. Hopefully it’s just the sensor, and all it needs is a cleaning.
It could just be in need of spark plugs.
@@vw5056 Thanks for the tip. I suppose I can take out the spark plugs and inspect them. Didn't think about it since I know that modern cars go about 100k miles before needing spark plugs. Then again, nothing is written in the stone and each car/situation is different...
Wow. Thanks.
I now understand what the Load value from my Scan Gauge is indicating. I hit over 95% towing. I try to cruise below 90%.
Plus, I will leave my Mazda 3 MAF alone as it still runs great at 60K.
Significant power restoration at 80K 2016 4Runner with MAF airflow cleaner spray by me. Was sluggish since about 60K.
Great video. One more thing to add, never and ever replace the oem MAF with an aftermarket one.
Amen to that! OEM all the way! I've seen so many times a cheap sensor from Amazon cause so many problems.
You are 100 per cent correct!
Calculated load test to diagnose is great information for DIY maf sensors
So go ahead and spend $870 for a MAF sensor when that's how much your dealerships want for one? Well alrighty then.
@@subtegral ~Don't buy OE or OEM parts from the dealer. Find out who the OE manufacturer is for the particular part, and buy that OEM brand part from a trusted auto parts retailer. Same part, same manufacturer for less money. It just won't have "Toyota" embossed on the part. In fact on some OEM parts you can see where the automakers brand was ground off. (For anybody who doesn't know, OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer.)
Thanks!
You teach me something I never knew before... almost every video you post... really amazing, your depth of knowledge... 💯 - I am going to check this in all of my cars ...NOW !!
With all due respect when all the advertisements come on the amount of audio volume is at least twice as much than during your video .Either way the difference in audio volume is astronomical compare to all othe you tube videos.Love your channel and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I should also say I have a very powerful home theater system and it scare the bejesus out of me when the comercial came on because your audio was too low and I had picked up the volume.
@@latin4ujr this was a known issue with some videos. The video after this one the issue is resolved. Sorry about that but it is resolved going forward. For those affected videos if you switch from 5.1 audio to stereo the volume will be normal
@TheCarCareNut thank you,I have a 2018 gs350 rwd fsport and an 2017 nx200t. Your videos are priceless for me. May God bless you 🙏
Hey Ahmed, we met at the meetup back in August . I told you how before I knew any better, my Lexus ISF was stalling randomly. Took it to the dealer and they diagnosed a faulty alternator, and charged me $2000 to replace it (I didn't know any better). Didn't fix the problem, and through internet research I found all I needed to do was clean the MAF. $10 CRC MAF cleaner and very easy work fixed the problem. That experience radicalized me into learning more about how cars work and how to fix them. When I get another 2UR GSE, it's coming to your shop! As well as my grandparents' 20,000 mile 2000 Camry V6 that they will give me when they are done driving.
I drive a 20 year old Avalon. There is no set time for cleaning or replacement the Mass air filter. May be lifetime. However some sites would say replace every 80,000 - 150,000 miles.
I did not know about scans, and I don't have a second person to go on a road test.
It is easy to take it out and clean it. It is potentially very easy to damage. I cleaned it a few times and finally replaced it. I probably will not replace it again during the lifetime of the car.
Yes, you have to keep track of things. I have free lifetime alignment. I replaced the 4 strut assemblies on Tuesday. I went to the national car service store and had the alignment done for free. And, received a recommendation to replace the air filter and to clean the throttle body . Of course, I last inspected the air filter about two months ago and have an OEM unit in inventory which does not cost the $40 that the service store would charge. The throttle body was last cleaned 8000 miles ago!
What we need is direction on cleaning the catalytic converter. Mine is bolted on and not welded. Even a weld can be cut and redone. My understanding is one can clean it is a solution of dish washing liquid soap with a lot of water, dry and re-install. What do you do?
Hi there. Thank you for this video. I started fixing my car after seeing these videos and learned a lot. Also, I was planning on cleaning the MAF sensor but didn't know what to do and etc. But thanks to this now I know. Thank you!
Love your videos! I appreciate the honesty and keeping us diyers performing meaningful repairs! Thank you! 🙏
You are right, i had the same problem with my Toyota Rav4 Diesel D4D engine. I used Curb cleaner and the problem was solved.
For so long, have been experiencing near engine stalling during acceleration from idle on my 2002 Corolla. I will just press more on gas pedal to compensate the engine hiccups. I initially thought of dirty fuel filter.
My mechanic troubledshoot by replacing the MAF sensor with the MAF sensors of other Toyotas in his garage. Walahh, turned out the MAF sensor is the culprit despite cleaning it. Replaced it with a second hand unit. Now car runs so much better.
I know someone that was always getting a new MAF every two - three years. Guess why? He ran those gimmicky K&N Oiled filters. The oil will coat the MAF and attract dirt and corrode. Cleaning is only temporary unless you go back to OEM filtration. Aftermarket only want your money.
They are not gimmicky, only over oiling that's a problem
@@ishaqthkr they are pointless.
I supercharged my civic and I left the stock intake and panel filter. If I can pull enough air to run 9Lbs of boost through the stock filter, the stock filter flows plenty of air and there is no reason to change it out for a high flow filter.
@@volvo09 there you go, it depends on vehicle to vehicle, i have a diesel Toyota and a High flow filter works better than paper filter. And the jury is out there where paper filter actually captured less dust than High flow when compared on the clean side on an airbox
@@ishaqthkryes they are useless. If you want squeeze the last 3-4hp potential... you should invest much more before that.
I have tried them over the years Depends on what type your using the big round one's with the intake horn does decrease the differential pressure across the filter... The drop in K&N filters just terrible stick with the OEM.. oiling can be an issue too especially to the more sensitive air flow meters
Thanks for the great content. Directly from Brasil where we lack this expertise.
Btw I followed your videos for servicing my Toyota Etios and it's been better then ever
Thank you so much for this video AMD! Long time watcher/subscriber first time commenter. My 99 4Runner has felt sluggish for a while. I used the torque app to see I was only getting upper 70s % engine load @ wot, no change after cleaning so replaced the maf with a new denso one and instantly got mid-90s % engine load. Feels like a new truck again! 99 4Runner V6 5vzfe 285k miles
Did your old MAF sensor actually say Denso on it?
@@subtegral both Toyota and Denso
Great info! I’ve got a 1999 and a 2001 and have never had an issue with the MAF. Never looked at them or cleaned them. Great to know how to test them though. I wouldn’t have thought about the calculated load reading. Thanks.
THANK YOU!
You pretty much saved me from making a fool of myself. 🙂
When our 2006 Matrix had about 75K miles on it, i found the section in the manual that I have about cleaning these. Hmm. Never did it, didn't know about it. So, I got a can of CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner and did a cautious couple of spritzes of the hot wires. That was it. Reinstalled it and was quite surprised at the boost in performance! So, immediately, the mind goes to should I do this at each oil change, or no? Luckily, I let it slide, and now I have a way to diagnose it; even my $40 code reader will display live data, so CHECKING IT when I do the next oil change is on the agenda. Thanks again.
Thanks so much. I have a Corolla 2008. Now I know something new. Greetings from Pennsylvania. 12/2/2024. Marry Christmas 🎄.
I cleaned mine & the throttle body, a few weeks ago. My 2012 Camry is running so smooth now 😃. I used CRC cleaners for both.
Of all your videos that have helped me, this one has taken it to another level for me!
I put the wrong oil on my k&n air filter and burned through 2 of these (2011 RAV4) before I realised what was causing it.
Ive since fixed the filter problem but just this week I've had another fail in me. I was feeling so down because I couldn't understand why they keep failing. 0 MAF sensors for 11 years then 3 in 2 years 😢
But your description of how delicate they are helped me understand. I've been buying 2nd hand replacements coz genuine new MAF sensors are a bit pricey in Australia. But worth the expense if it stops the problem.
Thankyou, Thankyou, Thankyou!! May the true God bless you for your helpful spirit 🙏
Those K&N style filters are junk. The only way it increases airflow is by decreasing filter performance. Just get a good quality paper filter and replace repeatedly. No more issues with MAF and better longevity with your engine.
God bless this man even greater for his detailed info than just trying to gain subscribers. I have learned more with His information than anything I can look up on the web. More power to him.
Thanks for your advice. I had exactly this issue recently. Treated my car to new plugs and coils (was only going to do plugs, but there was a special offer on both - for proper Japanese NGKs, not Chinese cheapies) and started getting lean mixture codes. I figured the new plugs and coils (the old coils were originals from 2003) were burning the fuel more efficiently, as the car was noticeably livelier. Put injector cleaner through the system and spray cleaned the MAF sensor, but it still wasn't happy, so replaced the sensor (with an OEM Denso one) and the car runs like new. Considering the original MAF sensor had lasted 125,000 miles, I reckon I got my money's worth from it.
Ahmed, great walkthrough on proper diagnosing and cleaning/replace of the MAF sensor. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and passion with us!
I have a 2011 Sequoia with 250,000 miles. I cleaned the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner at 200k as well as the throttle body (which was shockingly clean) and haven't had any issues. I'll be buying a new OEM one though just to avoid any future issues. Spending $100 every 250K isn't too bad haha.
Thanks for the head-up on the new MAFs. I have them in both of my Toyotas. No issues but it is good to know that they are not cleanable if there is an issue.
You mean the new microchip type. Now I understand.
Another great video! Many thanks for all the useful information you share on your channel. Admire your dedication, God bless! BTW... Jose does a great job editing as well! Thank you!
Man, you never fail to deliver amazing content to the world. The one channel that I always watch to the end :) Cheers brother
I thought my MAF was bad but the car never threw a code. The car runs okay but it wasn’t the same, especially at first startup, (engine stumbles). I didn’t want to throw parts at it as well. I’ve spray cleaned in the past. I tested my sensor and readings showed bad. 76.1% was my calc load at full throttle. Idle read between 15% to 25%, but jumped above 25% a few times. Time for a new sensor. Thank you for the helpful video sir! 2005 Camry 4 cyl w/ 210K
I only use CRC maf air sensor cleaner. Learnd something new today 👌
Thanks for a really informative video because I am no expert and usuallly leave this stuff to my mechanic. There is a different setup of course on my 2011 GH Mazda 6 Hatchback but the principal is just the same and I have noticed when my mechanic has cleaned the throttle body which I believe has this MAF in it the car's performance and economy is immediately and noticeably improved. However, this is a good warning for those of us who will attempt to work on this vital piece of our car's anatomy. Oh and I just saw that your name was Ahmed in another comment so good to put a name to the face as being in Australia we tend to go by given names more often than not😉.
You are coming exactly with the video for what I believe need for my 2015 jetta. Start having a misfire, I blame the ignition coil. But I think this could be the problem becoze epc light come one. Thanks for making videos
Great video AMD! I think my car needs a new MAF not sure tho! It’s very underpowered and sluggish and it’s even worse when the car is cold!
I will be honest to you. I cleaned my "not so dirty" MAF sensor yesterday. "Just in case".
"They all" say: Clean the sensor. Then this very likeable guy comes into my flow and say no, dont clean. And it all makes sense! Calculate load - Check.
I have DIY cars for over 20 years. Thats a LOT of unnecessary cleaning folks! Thank you!
Well I think you addressed my fuel economy problem with this one video. I was cleaning mine too often!!!
Thanks for putting this out. I have a 2007 Camry with 181,000 miles (That didn't get the engine piston ring rebuild unfortunately) that started having problems with the motor a couple of months ago. When I was driving home from work, the Camry started losing power to the engine after I floored the gas a couple of times for a brief few seconds. Suddenly the car had trouble delivering power above 1500-2000 RPM. I could barely reach 45 MPH and had a difficult time getting the car up small hilly roads. the engine also started making a knocking sound.
My friend brought his computer to diagnose it, but the only code we were getting was P0420: catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank 1). He recommend that I replace the O2 sensor. I went to Autozone to buy one, and after telling the workers at the store what happened, he said I should also clean the mass airflow sensor. I bought a can of CRC mass airflow sensor cleaner and cleaned it myself. But now that you mention in the video how delicate it that sensor is, I wonder if I cleaned it properly. The can comes with a plastic red straw, and I sprayed directly at the sensor.
The Camry started running fine again after replacing the O2 sensor and cleaning the mass airflow sensor, but the engine problem came back up again 1 and a half months later, but not as severe. This time the engine power would drop and sputter if I pressed the gas to get the engine to run above 2000 to 2500 RPM. I replaced the spark plug plugs with a Denso Iridium set and reset the computer a second time. But I'm leaning towards replacing the mass airflow sensor after watching this informative video. Thanks!
Get the cheap scan tool and check it like he said. 30-50 USD hooks via Bluetooth to your phone.
Lot to learn there.
I'd do a compression test on the engine before throwing more parts at it.
Oil burner Camry. Your exhaust is clogged at the converter. Hook up pressure gauges and you'll see a few psi drop across the converter during idle. A new converter will clog again due to oil burning engine. Replace the converter with a straight pipe if your state does not do emission test or tear down the engine to replace the oil control piston rings.
Ahmed, I clean mine every other couple of oil changes, not only on the ISF, but the Subaru two with the appropriate cleaner from CRC…. At the same time while I’m in there, I clean throttle bodies. I do notice a difference, I do clean it lightly and let it dry, but now after watching this video, I think I will stop and try your method. Thank you.
Awesome tip! I own a 2006 Toyota Highland Hybrid and two Hondas. I'm going to do the CALC test on all my cars to get a good working baseline reading in order to compare with future CALC readings as the years go by.
A great tip for MAF testing and cleaning.
If I can find a tip in your collection for a 2015 sienna sliding door that won’t open and close properly then I’ll be set for a good while since I’ve already watched your video on the cable replacement which doesn’t fit the symptoms for my situation. Finding the proper title is half the battle.
Fords have "Baro" They compute the barometric pressure. It is very altitude sensitive. Not sure if the newer ones do though,
Great video! Very informative and super helpful. Do your research specifically to your own vehicle model before cleaning the MAF sensor.
My 1990 BMW with a mechanical air flow meter still runs like a champ. (Sorry, I have to confess that I am a BMW owner that listens religiously to the CCN channel).
And I drive a Chevrolet 😊
Old BMW's are lovely cars.
(I have a Ford truck and a Honda civic)
Oh if BMWs were half the cars they were 30 plus years ago….
My lambda sensors both fired up the dash Christmas tree on my 06 Lexus is250.
Break cleaner (German quality) on the MAF cleaned it, and the lambdas were happy again (Christmas tree off), however stuttering and "lag" on the gas got heavy after cleaning.
After thinking about it, that made sense. The ECU was used to the dirty sensor and now confused. Neg battery off -- 15 min -- neg battery on. All good.
Another excellent video for the diy troubleshooter. Our 2002 Camry with 103k miles just got a P0171 code. I followed your steps with scanner. Staring CL was around 50 at brisk acceleration. Pulled MAF and cleaned per your instructions and it went up to a best of 79 with 2nd cleaning. Would you go ahead and just replace it at this point? Thanks for all you do for us and have a Merry Christmas.
CRC Makes MAF cleaner and it works great
Yep 👍
Yes, I’m surprised he didn’t mention MAF cleaner specifically to be used.
He mentioned electrical cleaner (and god forbid brake clean) but I wouldn’t personally feel comfortable using basic electrical cleaner. I’ll assume CRC has both for a reason.
Use the right product, it’s pretty delicate.
Mr. Ahmed I’ve learned so much from your videos! Can you please make a video on Toyota coolant bypass valve issue? I have a 20’ Corolla and I’ve read it’s an issue across a couple platforms. Much appreciated!
Great video! I of course immediately when out and tested mine. I get back 38-45% at idle and 90-98% full throttle… why so high at idle? ‘13 LX570
Thanks! Very interesting indeed! I have often wondered why MAFs can be busted but not set codes. I promise not to clean mine anymore!
Hmmmm...I have a '98 4R (5VZ-FE) and have a ScanGaugeIII on the dash.....I can't find 'Calculated Load'...but I do have an 'Engine Load' readout...is this possibly the same (or not)?
Love this channel....learn a LOT every time I watch.
The one with the moveable vane was known as a Vane Air Meter and often had a Intake Air Sensor, and in some a fuel pump switch as well.
The rest you speak of is true.
Thank you Mr. TCCN for your "tutorial" vids. I prefer working on my own cars/trucks as much as possible. I have a 2019 3.5 Tacoma that was attacked by a rat. The rat cut the injector wires. Now i am looking for a good shop manual for this model. Is there a good one out there with detailed information? Again, thanks for all the good info you post.
Great tip. This is the first video that anyone has mentioned calculated load to determine the sensor's efficiency. I would think that the wrong cleaner may even contaminate the sensor by leaving a film on it?
Hey AMD, love your videos, best car channel I've come across on youtube for real, sending love from the middle east. Would really love if you did a video about high fuel consumption issues in Toyota & Lexus and how to properly diagnose them and fix them, Thanks!!!
Thank you. You are very thorough on all your videos. I also like the Worx Pegasus folding worktable looks great. :)
I had an after market MAF installed and I noticed my MPG's dropped by almost 5 mpg per tankful. At the same time, I notice an uptick in speed and accelaration. Also read that you should only replace with OEM only.
Thank you AMD for the good advice on mass air flow sensor. 👍👍👍
Thanks for the very useful advanced PID data diagnostic tips. Awesome information. 👍
Great video. Your knowledge is much appreciated. One thing though about testing the MAF sensor. When i floored the accelerator to see if I can get the calculated load up to 85 or 90 percent, it only got to 91 for a split second and instantly dropped down with a slight reduction in throttle. That's normal right? Thank you.
FANTASTIC explanation of this complex issue.
One think that should be mention for calculated load. At sea level, calculated load can be close to or even 100%. But at higher altitude, will start to drop. So seeing 78% calculated load at a 7000 ft above sea level can be normal.
if it goes bad always use the same brand as the OEM supplier. I picked one up from the parts store one time and the car ran ok. later on after doing some mods and ECU flash I picked up a used OEM Hitachi brand one at a salvage yard and it made a huge difference. right away the idle was way more stable and the engine was definitely more responsive and felt more powerful.
I have a 2000 Camry LE 2.2L. If I'm at a red light when turns green it doesn't speed up well. The MAF sensor could be the original MAF sensor. The Camry was given to me by my late cousin it was his father's Camry. I've work on the Camry myself those things I can work on and repair myself. I don't trust the mechanics where I live. If they think they can put one over on you they will. I'm not that kind of person not by a long shot. Thank much for your video and God Bless.
My 2011 toyota is having rough idle at the cold start, that is why i am here. I don't know what scan tool you are referring to partly because in my country there is not many car parts stores which sell those items. So, i am going to clean the sensor anyway.
IMO when it comes to things like MAF sesnsors, only clean them if they're causing problems (idle issues, etc), and use cleaner designed for MAF sensors or delicate electronics that doesn't leave residue or otherwise damage the sensor (don't use break clean, which I have seen people do). I did clean mine on my Toyota once, nothing bad happened, but it didn't help the idle issue (later found out it was actually carbon build-up so running some concentrated fuel injector cleaner with PEA fixed the issue, but at least I have a clean MAF sensor now).
Hi Bro, I am from India and regulary watch your channel, Trust me this is perhaps the most authentic and informative videos. I ahve a confusion - Can i use 5w30 instead of 0w20 in my honda city (1.5 Litre NA) ?? is it better or stick to 0w20 ..Temperature at my place rarely go less than 2 degree Celcius.but higher side ambient temperature goes around 45 degree Cel. .. pls help
My last project before I sold my 4Runner was to clean up the intake box, throttle body and MAF because we went off roading so often in a 40k mile period but I never got to do it. Pretty sure it would’ve improved dramatically, because it was somewhat dragging in performance even though it’s already slow… it was even slower.
Got a yellow engine light that has come on a couple of times on the 24-year-old Corolla I have. Cleaning the maf sensor works great. Last time it was P0141 code. I did cleaning and reset. After all, this is the only engine problem I've had with the toyota, so I'll survive 😁
Best Channel on RUclips!!!
This is very informative. Since recently buying my 2018 RX350, I changed the filter to a K&N and cleaned the MAF with a CRC MAF cleaner. The car started choking under full load. I replaced it to OEM paper filter it still chokes while under full load a little and then it seems to start readjusting to prevent choking. Is it possible that the preoiled K&N filter contributed to this problem? I am not sure how well the MAF sensor on the 2GRFKS engines responds to K&N filters so would be interested to hear from you and others regarding their experiences to determine if I need to return it. Thanks