I just use rotary for cutting, forced rotation for refining and orbital for finishing. If I had to choose one, rotary ALL the way! Thanks and greetings from Brazil!
as a 20 year detailer.....rotary is the tool for pros. my akita 9227cb is now retired to autortriz fine work and the Rupes lh19e is my tool of choice. I have the mille too...good tool for your apprentice to use...[ I work solely ] I don't have the da's but I recently went pneumatic...!! lta75 and 125...they are the way forward I believe...
I have the LHR 15 MK3 but i have a lot of problems on non flat panels. I dont have good rotation and losing a lot of time trying to adjust it corectly. Especialy on vertical panels near the ground... what i ending up is using the LHR75 75% of the time working on one viecle so that is taking me forever to finish it... do you tink if i go with rotory i can speed up the heavy defect corection and then use the DA for nice finish? Thanks
Levi, I would agree that if you are introducing employees to these machines the 15 or 21mm are the safest and most confidence boosting. Once they see results in removing defects We generally move them onto the rotary to show the difference on how quickly defects can be removed. We utilise all of the different machines throughout the day on multiple vehicles at the same time. If there was a choice of “you can only choose one” , then I would have to say the Forced Rotation . Just my opinion as an Old Guy ! Any machine is better than doing the full Vehicle by hand though.😉
Good lord! Could you imagine a world where we were polishing cars by hand?!?! We coach that the random orbital is the safer movement for a new employee, the gear driven has the shorter learning curve. Sounds like you're doing a great job of coaching your new people thru the process and elevating their skill set @veteran detail - good job!
Very simple Rotary: low rpm aggressive cutting, post wet sanding ,compounding, jewling D/a 15mm21mm: 2 step compounding/polishing system to cover panels faster and takle mild job quicker Mille forced action: safe high rpm aggresive compounding Based on my 2 cents... theres pads and polishes that require each tool it depends what products your working with.... I use rotary 20% of the time I use dual action 50% of the time I use forced action 30% of the time btw flex was the first machine i tried the i tried the duetto... its to this day my favorite tool...
I've been using a rotary for a total of 3 years professionally, but not consistently, over a 12 year span. It still gives me problems with black cars and leaving holograms. I just cant get it. I personally believe it's only useful for heavy correction and should be followed by polishing with a random orbital
One trick I used to do for rotary buffing black cars was to run heavy compound with a wool pad, and when I'm finished I lightly wipe the compound with a microfiber, blow out the wool pad, and then lightly mist the paint surface with water and run the dry wool pad over the surface quickly and lightly like I'm applying wax. Not sure why but it helped reduce holograms a ton on black cars and made the polishing and finishing steps a little easier to do.
I have ibrid, mini, duetto, 15 mk3, 21 mk3 and festool shinex rotary. I hardly ever use festool. I think bigfoots are the most efficent tools. I also had mille, but it doesnt cut as fast as 15-21 so i sold it. Mille is better than 3401 though. Comparing long throw and forces rotation is like comparing synchronized vs non Synchronized gearbox. The first one is faster but reguires more skill, the other is slower.but almost anybody can use it.
The Mille doesn’t cut as quickly as the 15 or the 21? I’m interested in buying one of the 3 and am surprised to hear that the Mille doesn’t cut faster. I’d have thought that with the forced rotation and lack of pad stall that the Mille would cut faster?
It is humorous the differences in opinions of great detailers. Yvan Lacroix preaches that learning the rotary is the easiest so long as the novice is learning at a slow speed and using a waffle pad. I will say his view is in the minority it seems.
The truth is that they're both right. I think as long as you're using it in the manner Yvan instructs (speed 1 with a thick/soft waffle pad)...a rotary is quite easy to learn even for a beginner. Anything outside of that, Dylan and Levi are right...the DA is king for novice users...which is exactly why Yvan recommends a DA for cutting. There's many ways to achieve the same results. Pick one and learn it, try others along the way and then decide what works best for you, the cars you're working on and the customers you are serving.
@WickedG5150 Forever True, but when people say DA without specifying Gear Driven/Forced Rotation or Random Orbital, it is generally safe to assume they assume Random Orbital. Heck, just look at the title of the video "Which STYLE is right for YOU? RUPES Bigfoot Dual-Action vs Gear Driven", the Rupes guys themselves assumed viewers would assume everyone understood Dual Action as a Random Orbital despite the fact that the title is technically incorrect.
Using the same pad and backing plate I seem to get faster results using a forced rotation/Gear Driven DA (such as the Mille) than a Random Orbital DA (such as the Rupes Bigfoot LHR 15 Mark III. However, Random Orbital DA's seem to finish down a little better.
I'm finally going to buy and learn a gear driven, but I just cannot decide between the Mille and 3401.. I think I have it decided then I'll watch another video and I'm unsure again. From what I gather, the 3401 is a bit more rebellious and requires more technique and effort to control, but is also a bit more efficient than a Mille, with its smaller orbit, etc.. Still leaning towards the 3401 honestly, I'm sure the Mille will be improved and revised for the second generation like the Mark II was. I don't want the disappointment of buying one, then feeling like I paid a premium price for an inferior product when an improved version comes out months later. I'm honestly so glad I didn't buy the original LHR for that reason.
If you haven't watched yet, this webinar may be helpful for you: rupesusa.com/core-series-webinar-lk900e-mille/ As far as cutting power, you'll find (and we have tested) that the Mille provides equivalent cut or in some cases even more vs. the nearest competitors in the gear driven category. While it does have a smaller orbit it completes more orbits per rotation (14 to be exact) so the specific pad velocity is actually higher from point to point, producing more cut. This also means that the tool is much more stable, smooth, and less apt to steering the operator around the car.
You dont understand.Come to middle east and see cars scars.So lets try with orbital lol =) Man ! I mhould work for 1 car maybe 2 day with orbital . With rotary maybe 10 hours. I know tecknique too how to work with orbital . I have already flrex XFE 7-15 also rupes mille.But really doesnt work for our cars.In europe and america cars are nice really.You can work with orbital easly
I just use rotary for cutting, forced rotation for refining and orbital for finishing. If I had to choose one, rotary ALL the way!
Thanks and greetings from Brazil!
as a 20 year detailer.....rotary is the tool for pros. my akita 9227cb is now retired to autortriz fine work and the Rupes lh19e is my tool of choice. I have the mille too...good tool for your apprentice to use...[ I work solely ] I don't have the da's but I recently went pneumatic...!! lta75 and 125...they are the way forward I believe...
I'll take all 3 with a side of Ibrid por favor. Thanks!
I have the LHR 15 MK3 but i have a lot of problems on non flat panels. I dont have good rotation and losing a lot of time trying to adjust it corectly. Especialy on vertical panels near the ground... what i ending up is using the LHR75 75% of the time working on one viecle so that is taking me forever to finish it...
do you tink if i go with rotory i can speed up the heavy defect corection and then use the DA for nice finish?
Thanks
Levi, I would agree that if you are introducing employees to these machines the 15 or 21mm are the safest and most confidence boosting. Once they see results in removing defects We generally move them onto the rotary to show the difference on how quickly defects can be removed.
We utilise all of the different machines throughout the day on multiple vehicles at the same time. If there was a choice of “you can only choose one” , then I would have to say the Forced Rotation . Just my opinion as an Old Guy !
Any machine is better than doing the full Vehicle by hand though.😉
Good lord! Could you imagine a world where we were polishing cars by hand?!?! We coach that the random orbital is the safer movement for a new employee, the gear driven has the shorter learning curve. Sounds like you're doing a great job of coaching your new people thru the process and elevating their skill set @veteran detail - good job!
So, a Forced Rotation, the Rotation and Oscillation is in opposite direction? The DA both the rotation and oscillation are in the same direction?
From cut to finish, im die hard rotary fan lol
Erik Datadeen lol. Pussy.
Very simple
Rotary: low rpm aggressive cutting, post wet sanding ,compounding, jewling
D/a 15mm21mm: 2 step compounding/polishing system to cover panels faster and takle mild job quicker
Mille forced action: safe high rpm aggresive compounding
Based on my 2 cents... theres pads and polishes that require each tool it depends what products your working with....
I use rotary 20% of the time
I use dual action 50% of the time
I use forced action 30% of the time btw flex was the first machine i tried the i tried the duetto... its to this day my favorite tool...
I think i need a rotary with extension arm to reach recessed fog lights?
Hi once again why no Rupes products like pads or compounds at TRC?
Pad Tuesday’s will be a whole lot more fun if you can stock the rupes lineup
Nice quick review of the three machines, giving their strengths and where they fit into the tool selections.
I wouldn't call it a forced rotation. Technically it's a gear drive dual action polisher. A forced rotation machine is a rotary.
Have them all except the Mille. Rotary, 21, lhr75e, nano, and cyclo too. Might get a Mille one of these days.
I love my Mille😊 and i will also be getting the duetto,lhr75 and the ibrid😁
I am interested in LHR 21 MIII
I’ll stick with my rotary
I've been using a rotary for a total of 3 years professionally, but not consistently, over a 12 year span. It still gives me problems with black cars and leaving holograms. I just cant get it. I personally believe it's only useful for heavy correction and should be followed by polishing with a random orbital
One trick I used to do for rotary buffing black cars was to run heavy compound with a wool pad, and when I'm finished I lightly wipe the compound with a microfiber, blow out the wool pad, and then lightly mist the paint surface with water and run the dry wool pad over the surface quickly and lightly like I'm applying wax. Not sure why but it helped reduce holograms a ton on black cars and made the polishing and finishing steps a little easier to do.
I have ibrid, mini, duetto, 15 mk3, 21 mk3 and festool shinex rotary. I hardly ever use festool. I think bigfoots are the most efficent tools. I also had mille, but it doesnt cut as fast as 15-21 so i sold it. Mille is better than 3401 though. Comparing long throw and forces rotation is like comparing synchronized vs non Synchronized gearbox. The first one is faster but reguires more skill, the other is slower.but almost anybody can use it.
The Mille doesn’t cut as quickly as the 15 or the 21? I’m interested in buying one of the 3 and am surprised to hear that the Mille doesn’t cut faster. I’d have thought that with the forced rotation and lack of pad stall that the Mille would cut faster?
It is humorous the differences in opinions of great detailers. Yvan Lacroix preaches that learning the rotary is the easiest so long as the novice is learning at a slow speed and using a waffle pad. I will say his view is in the minority it seems.
The truth is that they're both right.
I think as long as you're using it in the manner Yvan instructs (speed 1 with a thick/soft waffle pad)...a rotary is quite easy to learn even for a beginner.
Anything outside of that, Dylan and Levi are right...the DA is king for novice users...which is exactly why Yvan recommends a DA for cutting.
There's many ways to achieve the same results. Pick one and learn it, try others along the way and then decide what works best for you, the cars you're working on and the customers you are serving.
Which one produces finest finish?
Does the mille cut quicker than a DA?
JC 787 is it a DA! But its pad rotation is forced!
@WickedG5150 Forever True, but when people say DA without specifying Gear Driven/Forced Rotation or Random Orbital, it is generally safe to assume they assume Random Orbital. Heck, just look at the title of the video "Which STYLE is right for YOU? RUPES Bigfoot Dual-Action vs Gear Driven", the Rupes guys themselves assumed viewers would assume everyone understood Dual Action as a Random Orbital despite the fact that the title is technically incorrect.
Using the same pad and backing plate I seem to get faster results using a forced rotation/Gear Driven DA (such as the Mille) than a Random Orbital DA (such as the Rupes Bigfoot LHR 15 Mark III. However, Random Orbital DA's seem to finish down a little better.
Dylan is great!
I prefer my rotary. I started in 2001 and I don't remember da polishers really being around.
I'm finally going to buy and learn a gear driven, but I just cannot decide between the Mille and 3401..
I think I have it decided then I'll watch another video and I'm unsure again. From what I gather, the 3401 is a bit more rebellious and requires more technique and effort to control, but is also a bit more efficient than a Mille, with its smaller orbit, etc..
Still leaning towards the 3401 honestly, I'm sure the Mille will be improved and revised for the second generation like the Mark II was. I don't want the disappointment of buying one, then feeling like I paid a premium price for an inferior product when an improved version comes out months later. I'm honestly so glad I didn't buy the original LHR for that reason.
If you haven't watched yet, this webinar may be helpful for you: rupesusa.com/core-series-webinar-lk900e-mille/
As far as cutting power, you'll find (and we have tested) that the Mille provides equivalent cut or in some cases even more vs. the nearest competitors in the gear driven category. While it does have a smaller orbit it completes more orbits per rotation (14 to be exact) so the specific pad velocity is actually higher from point to point, producing more cut. This also means that the tool is much more stable, smooth, and less apt to steering the operator around the car.
You dont understand.Come to middle east and see cars scars.So lets try with orbital lol =) Man ! I mhould work for 1 car maybe 2 day with orbital . With rotary maybe 10 hours. I know tecknique too how to work with orbital . I have already flrex XFE 7-15 also rupes mille.But really doesnt work for our cars.In europe and america cars are nice really.You can work with orbital easly