I get it but if it's any consolation, I watch every one of your videos. As a scaredy cat to paint my car you have certainly given me the confidence to attempt it.
It's not hard you can do it use cheap paint in case you need to respray. Be prepared to cut and buff out drips, sand, bugs, and orange peel. Thanks for watching.
Please don't quit making videos. None of the big time RUclipsrs got 100K subscribers overnight, in fact, for most of them, they didn't start making real money on RUclips until after they hit 100K. Some of those RUclipsrs were even able to quit their full time job and make their channel their full time job. I just found your channel today, and I really enjoyed the hell out of this video, liked and subscribed. Your time will come, but you have to let it. It's like the old saying goes, good things come to those who wait. As an example, RUclipsr DD Speed Shop has 142K subscribers, and still works a full time job. Be patient with it, and raise it like a kid.
Ditto! I just found your channel, as well! Subscribed and set up notifications! I loooove the Plymouth Wagon, Son! Looking forward to following you! DO NOT Quit! 🙂
Well said PaganWizard!!! I just found the channel today and love it and subbed. My high school car was a 74 road Runner and I absolutely love the cars!! I would still have it today but I stored it in moms barn when I joined the Air Force and after 5-6 years I guess she thought I was ever gonna come back for it and sold my Road Runner, my brothers 70 1/2 Camaro SS/RS split front end, 350 4spd, etc, and my other brother had a 69 Bug he had done a ton of custom work to it and it was a bad ass Bug!! Oh well, gotta move on tho. I was hoping to find another Road Runner but haven’t found one that wasn’t completely rusted out tho so I’m still looking!! Love your content, please don’t quit putting videos out tho, you’ve got a ton of potential and your numbers will come around but it does take time. If you do decide to quit, just please don’t do it in the middle of a Road Runner build, please! Anything else is cool, just not the Road Runner!!!
The main thing is you tried. And I'll tell you it takes time to learn to paint. I started painting cars in 1977. I was 18. I made my whole career in paint and body work. I'm retired now,but still work on my own cars. I have a 69 and a 70 Roadrunner. When I started learning the big thing was Acrylic enamel single stage on Ford and Chrysler products and GM cars got laquer. Keep trying and learning all you can! Best of luck to you!
@@somewhatfast I still don't understand. I went to the store paint guy and he listed all my options. I asked for Acrylic Enamel. He said there was no acrylic enamel I could buy. This was in California, so that could limit my choices. From the books I read, acrylic enamel is never used with a base coat plus clear coat system. Are you saying you bought acrylic enamel single stage paint and did a second coat with acrylic enamel single stage CLEAR paint? I though you could never apply a second spay. I mean, it is supposed to get hard when it dries. I don't blame you for waiting less than 6 hours. Would it have even stuck at all if you waited until the surface was fully dry? What product are you using? Oh, is this a specific Mopar shade such as B5 blue? That , b5, is what I want to paint.
Nick, I hope you don't quit! But if you do, we have all been along for the ride with you as you have ventured into new territory as we watched. Don't try and take on such big projects and try and finish them asap! Take your time as fame will come to you if you work it in your spare time.
I've been making videos on my normal stuff I do for 2 years now. I'm not trying to take on big projects, this is just what I do. Alot of these cars I sell. My plan was to make some money on youtube and be able to keep some damn cars. Maybe I'll post shorter unedited videos here and there. Thanks for watching.
Don't be too hard on yourself about the paint! Things happen, live, learn, screw up again! Rinse and repeat! Love the body work! I for one, actually like these cars.
I really enjoyed the video personally, quite impressed with your work and knowledge too, PLUS you went thru the trouble of explaining things as you went. I think its a great video which also shows what you can run into. Id say Hang in there and dont stop making videos, Im almost 70 now and really cant do that stuff anymore but it sure brought me back to my younger days, especially being into Mopars!! Thank you for making it, it was probably the best part of this ol mans day! Hope you wont take that away. God Bless!!
Please keep going.i love the channel! I know we all need to make money but don't become one of the PROFESSIONAL u,tubers who bore everyone with the same content every week ! Keep the faith and keep rodding.. mick the mechanic u.k...
Think you’re doing an awesome job. Just a lot of man hours in body work. Very impressive. You get that at a boy award! Thanks for sharing your work! 💯👍👊
I found your vid right when I have started to do repairs and paint to my old 86 K10 pickup. Those areas where the metal is pinched together, bottom of doors, hood front, trunk rear, those are full of rust. Guaranteed. Since you are doing a temp repair, which is what I am doing as well, get some mineral oil, and a spray bottle and spray (stream) into those pinch areas if you can access them. If not, pour into some access ports to get the Mineral Oil in the pinches. You want enough to saturate the entire lower pinch area. This will do 2 things for you. The rust will allow the Mineral oil to seep into the rust, and it will seep pretty far as well as up the panel. Mineral oil will thicken as it dries and keeps the water and air from the corroded rust. One application should last a few years, but, even if you never do it again, doing it once is well worth it and it is not hard to do. Another option is transmission fluid. I can't confirm but I'm told it has some anti rust chemicals in it too. For somewhere that you can access, sort of, you can heat up some vaseline, not too hot, and it will be sticky in and on the rust areas and tends to last a lot longer. I use the vaseline on the electrical connections and bulb sockets that are attacked by weather, mostly the front of the car, tail lights. Another thought... on my truck, the battery ground wires to a bolt on the radiator support panel. The right side headlights take the ground from there. but the right side headlights take the ground from the radiator support panel, through another bolt. Ever wonder why some cars have a dim headlight on one side? I connected those two bolts with a ground wire to carry a hard ground for the circuits. -- you are doing pretty much what I am running into so i'm watching your technique for repairing metal. thanks for the vid.
Yes that’s right every one’s budget is different, only focus on your budget, competition is not against other people but against you , I like your show. God bless😊
Don’t give up! Many of us like your style. Usually on your third or fourth car some disaster happens that requires a total re-spray. The lowest points in the car hobby have to be engine rebuild failures and wrecked paint jobs. We are craftsmen, we suck it up and soldier on. Experience is the short way of saying “I know 5 ways to NOT do something” and that is only earned the hard way.
I had a 69 sport satellite sedan. it was a beast and my favorite i have owned. I think your paint looks pretty good. your videos are inspirational but i can understand the extra work.
Hey man, nice work on that car. Painting is easy to correct. Just more time that you don’t have. But every job teaches a lesson. I’m painting in similar conditions and have almost decided to clear coat the following day. Let’s that stuff flash off well. Or you can do your drop coat for the metallics the day after, then clear that day as well. The blessing here is that you can wet block the entire car with 600 and then you’ll have the best surface to lay down the final coats.
Thanks bro, I ended up repainted the car single stage blue. Kind of a petty blue but a little darker. I've painted lots of cars but I've never put clear over enamel bummer but lesson learned!
Already can’t wait to see the next video. I know this stuff is tough but I’ve been with you for quite a while now and truly enjoy and I mean it watching your content. Keep with it brother. See you on the next one.
Twenty years of experience talking here... keep it up, you got great skills. Painting a car is hard work & every step matters. With metallics, use a good gun with alot more air pressure. Use the cross-hatch pattern on your last coat to cover any stripes & spots you see. It's the lack of sealer that's making all those weird blotches come through, because paint is very transparent. That's why a sealer is important. So, use a sealer over primer, decent gun with plenty of air pressure, cross-hatch pattern and you'll be happy with the result. You got this, man!
You could try turning the pressure down to about 22psi and hold the spray gun back about 10 to 12 inches when doing the final coat of paint then spray the clear in the same fashion good luck 👍
no sorry he is right you had to much air pressure and your gun was to close it was not a paint material problem just keep it up you will get it right thats how you learn by your mistakes just don't give up.
@rickyshouseofcrap8600 The metallic was laid all out just fine. Once i cleared it the metallic sagged. I didn't use vasebcoat clear. I used enamel and clear coat. I had it set around 24 ps data sheet said to allow to dry for 6 hours minumum.
some people just don't want the help good luck i'm not talking out my ass i have cars that are on the front covers of magazines and on the internet and have only won first place at auto rama's.
@rickyshouseofcrap8600 You aren't listening. I used an enamel and cleared it about 20 minutes after spraying. The data sheet said to wait 6 hours. I didn't read that until after. Thanks for trying to help. Also what cars are on the cover of magazines? What's your name?
Hey, you saved a cool car and it looks really, really straight - you are to be commended! It’s a pain that you have to sand and reshoot it, but if you don’t you’ll regret it every time you look at it - but cheer up, it will be even straighter after you block it again! Metallic is hard by itself, and when clear moves it around…. I jammed and did the engine compartment and trunk of my ‘66 Satellite convert in single stage metallic bronze urethane and it proved I should take it to someone to shoot the body. I do enjoy your videos!
I dig what you said about who gives a fk what anyone thinks about the ride you're restoring. If it's a car you like,that's all that matters, straight up. Keep doing what you're doing.
@@somewhatfast I'm working on a 1991 dodge stealth rt and after watching several videos on painting vehicles at home,the videos including yours,gives me the confidence to paint mine myself.
..That was a PROPER one man DIY car resto job and I loved it. True, honest and a lot of hard work. I did the same back in the 80's with a Ford Capri 3.0L E MK 1 V6.Took me 6 months and I can tell you it's a lot of work, so I can really relate to all the hours of hard work you put in. My heart sank when then the paint job failed, but at least you know where you went wrong. The only thing I would add apart from longer flash time is, after full coverage, spray a dust coat so that all those metalics sit down and avoid seperation. Great colour too. Please carry on. Everybody likes watching the truth. BAD CHAD springs to mind. Liked and subbed.
I have a not so popular '65 Olds Cutlass. I've been putting of working on it for years. Gonna get on it soon. I have a little inheritance $$. It's gonna be nice. Thanx for inspiring me. This project has made you a much better body man. Experience is priceless.
Just found your channel. Fantastic video. Don’t stop .your channel It will grow. I would have ordered a car just like this but had to have a car to work, bought what was on the lot .
You did a good job, and saved an old car, I was lucky years ago, I had a friend who owned a body and finder shop, I managed to fix a few cars I had and paint in my back yard with a plastic tarp building I made my friend gave me pointers on different things with the body work also reading. I was on a budget material can be costly, it wasn't perfect eather but they' all came out well, my friends thought they looked good, had fun doing it, I think you did will. Im sure you can straighten out the areas.
I had a couple Satellites like that one and I always liked the way the body was made on em and I always wanted to big block 4speed em but I didn't have em long enough. I'd get em at auctions for cheap and I couldn't turn down the offers for em in the late 80s and early 90s..They had 318s with automatic transmission and I wasn't too fond of brown and a certain medium green and both was the same color of the car inside and out..The only thing I did to em is put fat tires on the rear and 70s on the front with Cragars all the way around em and that improved 70 percent of the looks. I always wanted Roadrunner hoods but like I said I didn't have em very long and they wasn't in really bad shape except for a dent or 2 but I'd always fix everything on em..I always had to have dual exhaust cause both set normal with single exhaust, mixed matched hubcaps and the brown one just had plain rally rim's..I would love to have em both now..I've been noticing a lite blue 1 with white stripes Roadrunner in my area running and driving and a mat black one that's bein built. That's about it for the area I live in
My 72 Skylark wished it had a paint job like that even lol. I wouldn't repaint it but thats me. I wouldn't own my car if I cared what people thought of it. For the price id say that was a win
I've been painting cars for 35 years and still make mistakes. Don't beat yourself up about it, the best thing about painting cars is, everything can be fixed. If you screwed it up, you can fix it. You did a great job on the body work in such a short period of time and that color is perfect for the car. Fine metallics are finicky to spray, I always do a crosshatch pattern when spraying the last light coat before clear. My only piece of advice is to wear a mask when sanding. Not wearing one has given me some respiratory issues that could have been avoided. My wife used to tell me I coughed in my sleep. Keep up the good work. I subscribed and I'm looking forward to your next video
Back in 98 my uncle bought a rust free black 73 Charger. We dropped a 440 in it and hooked a tow strap to it and pulled it out the garage. The brakes didn't work and tow strap came loose. Instead of steering it over into the flat I freaked out and took it backwards over the mountain and tore it all to hell. My uncle was pissed but he could t say anything cause he shouldnt of smoked pot with a teenager 🤣🤣 Man I regret that car gettin tore up. It was showroom solid but junkyard jewel after it met me
Years ago when i was shooting acrylic enamel , you would have to swirl the paint around in the cup to keep the metalic from separating. That's probably what you are seeing, more or less metalic in the paint. Thanks for the video.
New subscriber here today, I totally agree, taking a car you dig, not what someone else digs and restoring it to your liking. I like rolling restorations which is what I call them. Get them driving and restore as you go but don't go crazy and spend way more then its ever going to be worth. That RR is pretty sweet, great body style in my opinion.
I hate to see you go bud I love the videos learned a thing or 2 from watching them such as how to rewire my 49 Chrysler Windsor from 6v to 12v but I understand you gotta make money for the family anyways thanks for being there
71-74 road runners and chargers are my favorite mopars. We’re getting ready to “restore “ a 76 amc hornet for my 12 year old. He’s gonna learn how to do everything and have a wicked awesome car when it is done. Yep it’ll have bondo and fiberglass in it and might be painted with tractor paint but it’s gonna be a bad ass car that nobody else has
Nick, I came across your channel. I hope you don’t quit. I know all about videoing and editing. It’s can be overwhelming at times. Your content is great bud. You got a new subscriber in me. I have a 68 cutlass im redoing and I think you just saved me soooo much money. Because what I just watched you do gave me hella confidence in doing the body work and paint myself. It’s not gone be a show car so why spend $$$$$$’s when I honestly can do it myself. Can’t wait to see your finished paint job. You sound like me…a perfectionist. lol I think you live pretty close to me. I live in Lake Worth and that’s about 56 min from that salvage place you went to up in Sunset. And I think you were like 48 min away. I’d like to stop by and chit chat sometime… maybe even do some work together. Anyways great job…and don’t quit bro…stay your course!
Mr Some What Fast really appreciate the effort that you go to, so I get the privellige to watch you transform cars on a budget, please don't stop videoing ,love your work and effort , regards Rob
I enjoy the videos, and you learn a lot more from failures than successes. I dig the car, hopefully you can sand off the clear and hit it again with another coat of single stage, good luck
Dude dont give up on your You Tube I love what you did to this car I had a 71 Road Runner 383 pistol grip I miss that car so bad I wish I had it back I love this body style. You have heart and really busted your ass on this build I love the color. I am going to give you and old school paint trick. The problem you are having is call modeling it happens in high metalic paints when you are spraying it. You will get clumps if you will of metalics that model together in patches . When I used to do auto body and paint I had a painter teach me a old school trick for modeling .When you are done and sprayed the last coat on he car and you see modeling leave a little paint in your cup take some reducer and dump in the cup and make it really think like water. Now turn your pressure way up about 45 psi hold the gun about three foot off the surface where the modeling it do not hold it close it has to be off the surface at least three feet make sure your pressure it high. Now hit it and fan the gun over the spot that is modeled the high pressure and the reducer will go int and spread the metalics out you can go beyond the area out it wont hurt the paint just make sure ou dont hold the gun close you can spray a full area with the hot reducer and fan technique . I would mix up some cheap paint on and old panel make it model and practice you will see what I mean pressure up way off the surface and fan the gun I love the car man you busted your ass on this one pat yourself on the back
@@somewhatfast You are welcome and you are welcome for taking the time out of my day to teach you how to take care of the modeling problem when spraying metallic's
@madmanmechanic8847 I used an enamel. The problem was the dry time was actually suppose to be 6 hours before applying. I applied clear 20 minutes after. That caused the metallics to fall. Watch the video the metallics are all perfect, until I clear coated it.
@@somewhatfast When you applied the clear coat it magnified the modeling you cannot cause your base coat to become liquid with just and application of clear the base coat . When you apply clear coat over a dried surface the clear coat will not make the base coat soluble and move your metallic around. Its already dry. I am not nit picking your paint job all I was trying to do is help you on the next paint job. I worked in paint industry for years and even went to tech school . Just trying to help you man. Good luck
@madmanmechanic8847 I didn't use a basecoat, I used a single stage it was already shiny. I'm sorry but you are wrong I explain it and show proof in the next video I always admit when I'm wrong and show my mistakes but that wasn't it. I did a drop coat. It was an acrylic enamel single stage, with a urethane clear. Data sheet said CEAR 4-6 HOURS I only waited like 20 max
That's a nice car!, I had a '73 Sebring Plus that same blue color I wish I still had it... The paint was so bad and flaky I'd run it through the car wash and it would wash the paint flakes off of it😊
Yes! Roadrunner had a stripe down the side and over the roof. I might do a black hood and a plymouth logo on quarter panel not sure yet. You are right definitely needs something to break up all that blue.
Good video brother. You've got such a wide range of general auto body talent. I'm more of an expert with painting, and my welding sucks. I've got a gas welder, and still trying to learn how to fill in holes in metal. I swear to god I can't fill holes without burning bigger holes! Anyhow, I sprayed a 1984 El Camino black with a gold top. The gold my customer wanted was from a 1971 Chevelle that we could only find in single stage paint. That was the LAST time I EVER spray single stage paint. Same problems on my El Camino as what you had here. Single stage sucks! I had to redo the top of the car at least 6 times before I was satisfied. Single stage seems like a great idea until you go to putting it on, where you discover all the horrible problems with it. I learned a good lesson from that job!
I’ve been painting cars a long time just always let everything flash off after it’s dry you can go back and do a control coat or fog coat to hide the blotche spots just give it time to dry
All 74' plym roadrunner/satelites get a dent on the quarter where it sticks out over the wheel. Ive had two with the same dent! One of them was concours perfect survivor car other than the dent.
I hope you keep making videos, but if you don't I get it. It's just inspiring to watch somebody who doesn't normally do this kind of stuff. I think well if he can do it, I think I can also. May be taking big bites there?!?! 😂 I not afraid of mechanicals but I've never done any kind of body work. Hope to see more from you soon but if not best of luck to you. The car overall looks great compared to when you first got it.
Not sure what you Mean. I've been working on cars my whole life and I've painted 10 cars. Maybe that's bad if I come off as a guy that doesn't seem like he has never messed with old cars. I've had more old cars than I can count.
@@somewhatfast I've watched plenty of your videos. I know you know how to work on cars, sorry it came across wrong. The point I was trying to make is you don't work on cars for a living. What you know is what you've learned yourself over the years, no disrespect intended on my part.
Invest in an air file brother do when your doing work on a quarter panel like you did on passenger side of this road runner, you can cut your filler down with the air file and it’s gonna help you shape a panel so much better and quicker and it will be flat instead of wavy like if you cut it with a DA. For no longer than you’ve been doing this tho, you’ve got great potential and great skills!! You’ll refine those skills as you go buddy!! Keep it up man, but get you an inline air file (harbor freight even has em fairly cheap, less than $50 I think but worth every penny!!)
Unbelievable that the flux core wire weld doesn’t burn right through the sheet metal. I have a flux core welder and I have been too afraid of trying to do sheet metal work on my car with it maybe I’ll just give it a shot. Nice work though fella keep it up 👍
Turn the heat down low and just do tacks. Been welding sheet metal with flux for over 10 years. Only on old school cars though. Next stuff you'll metal right through.
To prevent runs .The correct way is to stay from the bottom up and walk from the back to the front .Do the roof first then cover the roof to prevent overspray on the roof. Then do the sides 2nd. Remember start from the back to the front spraying from the bottom up. After it drys for 1 day block sand with 600 then 1200. Blow the car down with air then tackle rag the whole car and now you are ready for the clear coat.😊 Have a great day
No judgement from me. My first paint job back in the early 80's was a mess to say the least. I hope you keep making videos. if the editing is a problem don't do it, As always I liked and shared. All my very best
Doesn’t look terrible but I hope you do repaint it. You’ve got a solid foundation on there now. Scrape the runs flat with a razor, DA everything flat with 600 and hit it again. I’d used base/clear. Make sure your final coat of base is sprayed as a drop coat aka orientation coat. I’d let the base coat dry for a few hours before clearing and make sure you let each coat of clear really flash good. Touch something that’s masked, when the clear feels similar to the tackiness of the sticky side of masking tape that’s when you’re ready for your next coat. Flash times listed on TDS sheets go right out the window when you’re not spraying in a climate controlled booth with good airflow. Always extend your flash times. Looking forward to seeing the respray ✌️
@christrainor1129 Alot better, I've been color sanding and working it all out when I can here and there. Car isn't as straight as it was the first time since I DA sanded it to repaint.
always liked these things there only downside was smog equipment( who runs that anyway ) and living in the shadow of there older siblings the charger the cuda and challenger.
I agree these cars are very beautiful and overlooked. Their down fall was the smog, big bumper guards, grill that didn't flow well, and the roadrunner had a stupid ah looking stripe down the side which a roadrunner never had prior. Take all that stuff off and some paint on the headlight bezels (which im going to show next) and they are pretty slick cars.
I get it but if it's any consolation, I watch every one of your videos. As a scaredy cat to paint my car you have certainly given me the confidence to attempt it.
It's not hard you can do it use cheap paint in case you need to respray. Be prepared to cut and buff out drips, sand, bugs, and orange peel. Thanks for watching.
Exactly why I’m here. I have a primerd bed on a Ford sort trac. A tree fell and got the old bed. Painting tips.
Please don't quit making videos. None of the big time RUclipsrs got 100K subscribers overnight, in fact, for most of them, they didn't start making real money on RUclips until after they hit 100K. Some of those RUclipsrs were even able to quit their full time job and make their channel their full time job. I just found your channel today, and I really enjoyed the hell out of this video, liked and subscribed. Your time will come, but you have to let it. It's like the old saying goes, good things come to those who wait. As an example, RUclipsr DD Speed Shop has 142K subscribers, and still works a full time job. Be patient with it, and raise it like a kid.
Ditto! I just found your channel, as well! Subscribed and set up notifications!
I loooove the Plymouth Wagon, Son! Looking forward to following you!
DO NOT Quit! 🙂
Well said PaganWizard!!! I just found the channel today and love it and subbed. My high school car was a 74 road Runner and I absolutely love the cars!! I would still have it today but I stored it in moms barn when I joined the Air Force and after 5-6 years I guess she thought I was ever gonna come back for it and sold my Road Runner, my brothers 70 1/2 Camaro SS/RS split front end, 350 4spd, etc, and my other brother had a 69 Bug he had done a ton of custom work to it and it was a bad ass Bug!! Oh well, gotta move on tho. I was hoping to find another Road Runner but haven’t found one that wasn’t completely rusted out tho so I’m still looking!! Love your content, please don’t quit putting videos out tho, you’ve got a ton of potential and your numbers will come around but it does take time. If you do decide to quit, just please don’t do it in the middle of a Road Runner build, please! Anything else is cool, just not the Road Runner!!!
The main thing is you tried. And I'll tell you it takes time to learn to paint. I started painting cars in 1977. I was 18. I made my whole career in paint and body work. I'm retired now,but still work on my own cars. I have a 69 and a 70 Roadrunner. When I started learning the big thing was Acrylic enamel single stage on Ford and Chrysler products and GM cars got laquer. Keep trying and learning all you can! Best of luck to you!
I actually used acrylic enamel on this car! I already repainted the car this time I went with non metallic single stage urethane.
@@somewhatfast I did not know acrylic enamel could even use a clear coat.
@auteurfiddler8706 Yup, that was my mistake. I was suppose to wait 6 hours to clear it. That's why the metallic shifted
@@somewhatfast I still don't understand. I went to the store paint guy and he listed all my options. I asked for Acrylic Enamel.
He said there was no acrylic enamel I could buy. This was in California, so that could limit my choices.
From the books I read, acrylic enamel is never used with a base coat plus clear coat system. Are you saying you bought acrylic enamel single stage paint and did a second coat with acrylic enamel single stage CLEAR paint?
I though you could never apply a second spay. I mean, it is supposed to get hard when it dries. I don't blame you for waiting less than 6 hours. Would it have even stuck at all if you waited until the surface was fully dry?
What product are you using?
Oh, is this a specific Mopar shade such as B5 blue?
That , b5, is what I want to paint.
@auteurfiddler8706 enamel single stage urethane clear. It's all on the video if you watch it. Clear was an after thought.
Keep making the vids,your content is much better than most of the other channels,more true to life.
Thank you Richard, that means alot.
Nick, I hope you don't quit! But if you do, we have all been along for the ride with you as you have ventured into new territory as we watched. Don't try and take on such big projects and try and finish them asap! Take your time as fame will come to you if you work it in your spare time.
I've been making videos on my normal stuff I do for 2 years now. I'm not trying to take on big projects, this is just what I do. Alot of these cars I sell. My plan was to make some money on youtube and be able to keep some damn cars. Maybe I'll post shorter unedited videos here and there. Thanks for watching.
Don't be too hard on yourself about the paint! Things happen, live, learn, screw up again! Rinse and repeat!
Love the body work!
I for one, actually like these cars.
I grew up in B bodies my uncle has a 71 and a 72 he picked us up in it everyweekend to go from Fort worth TX to Granbury TX. Thanks for watching
@@somewhatfast I subscribed, and even hit the little bell thingy....
Hope to see more!
I really enjoyed the video personally, quite impressed with your work and knowledge too, PLUS you went thru the trouble of explaining things as you went. I think its a great video which also shows what you can run into. Id say Hang in there and dont stop making videos, Im almost 70 now and really cant do that stuff anymore but it sure brought me back to my younger days, especially being into Mopars!! Thank you for making it, it was probably the best part of this ol mans day! Hope you wont take that away. God Bless!!
Please keep going.i love the channel! I know we all need to make money but don't become one of the PROFESSIONAL u,tubers who bore everyone with the same content every week ! Keep the faith and keep rodding.. mick the mechanic u.k...
Nice color of blue. I think it turned out great!
You´re doing a good job, don´t give up.
Think you’re doing an awesome job. Just a lot of man hours in body work. Very impressive. You get that at a boy award! Thanks for sharing your work!
💯👍👊
Thanks Terry
Don’t give up. Most people quit just before succeeding!
I found your vid right when I have started to do repairs and paint to my old 86 K10 pickup.
Those areas where the metal is pinched together, bottom of doors, hood front, trunk rear, those are full of rust. Guaranteed.
Since you are doing a temp repair, which is what I am doing as well, get some mineral oil, and a spray bottle and spray (stream) into those
pinch areas if you can access them. If not, pour into some access ports to get the Mineral Oil in the pinches. You want enough to saturate
the entire lower pinch area.
This will do 2 things for you.
The rust will allow the Mineral oil to seep into the rust, and it will seep pretty far as well as up the panel.
Mineral oil will thicken as it dries and keeps the water and air from the corroded rust. One application should last a few years, but, even if you never do it again, doing it once is well worth it and it is not hard to do.
Another option is transmission fluid. I can't confirm but I'm told it has some anti rust chemicals in it too.
For somewhere that you can access, sort of, you can heat up some vaseline, not too hot, and it will be sticky in and on the rust areas and tends to last a lot longer.
I use the vaseline on the electrical connections and bulb sockets that are attacked by weather, mostly the front of the car, tail lights.
Another thought...
on my truck, the battery ground wires to a bolt on the radiator support panel. The right side headlights take the ground from there.
but the right side headlights take the ground from the radiator support panel, through another bolt. Ever wonder why some cars have a dim headlight on one side?
I connected those two bolts with a ground wire to carry a hard ground for the circuits.
-- you are doing pretty much what I am running into so i'm watching your technique for repairing metal. thanks for the vid.
Yes that’s right every one’s budget is different, only focus on your budget, competition is not against other people but against you , I like your show. God bless😊
Thanks harry!
Don’t give up! Many of us like your style. Usually on your third or fourth car some disaster happens that requires a total re-spray. The lowest points in the car hobby have to be engine rebuild failures and wrecked paint jobs. We are craftsmen, we suck it up and soldier on. Experience is the short way of saying “I know 5 ways to NOT do something” and that is only earned the hard way.
I had a 69 sport satellite sedan. it was a beast and my favorite i have owned. I think your paint looks pretty good. your videos are inspirational but i can understand the extra work.
That's a dream car of mine. If I could afford it that's what I would be driving everyday
Hey man, nice work on that car. Painting is easy to correct. Just more time that you don’t have. But every job teaches a lesson. I’m painting in similar conditions and have almost decided to clear coat the following day. Let’s that stuff flash off well. Or you can do your drop coat for the metallics the day after, then clear that day as well. The blessing here is that you can wet block the entire car with 600 and then you’ll have the best surface to lay down the final coats.
Thanks bro, I ended up repainted the car single stage blue. Kind of a petty blue but a little darker. I've painted lots of cars but I've never put clear over enamel bummer but lesson learned!
I understand the time thing. Gonna miss your videos
Already can’t wait to see the next video. I know this stuff is tough but I’ve been with you for quite a while now and truly enjoy and I mean it watching your content. Keep with it brother. See you on the next one.
Had a similar problem with the paint on an old 48 Plymouth. Felt better seeing after the respray.
I'd hate to see you go. I really like the car, and your vids.
Twenty years of experience talking here... keep it up, you got great skills. Painting a car is hard work & every step matters. With metallics, use a good gun with alot more air pressure. Use the cross-hatch pattern on your last coat to cover any stripes & spots you see. It's the lack of sealer that's making all those weird blotches come through, because paint is very transparent. That's why a sealer is important. So, use a sealer over primer, decent gun with plenty of air pressure, cross-hatch pattern and you'll be happy with the result. You got this, man!
Thank you. Watch the next video I repainted it
Great job Dude Looks Factory man can't get no better than that
Thanks Tommy!
You could try turning the pressure down to about 22psi and hold the spray gun back about 10 to 12 inches when doing the final coat of paint then spray the clear in the same fashion good luck 👍
Thank you, it was because the clear coat was applied too soon.
no sorry he is right you had to much air pressure and your gun was to close it was not a paint material problem just keep it up you will get it right thats how you learn by your mistakes just don't give up.
@rickyshouseofcrap8600 The metallic was laid all out just fine. Once i cleared it the metallic sagged. I didn't use vasebcoat clear. I used enamel and clear coat. I had it set around 24 ps data sheet said to allow to dry for 6 hours minumum.
some people just don't want the help good luck i'm not talking out my ass i have cars that are on the front covers of magazines and on the internet and have only won first place at auto rama's.
@rickyshouseofcrap8600 You aren't listening. I used an enamel and cleared it about 20 minutes after spraying. The data sheet said to wait 6 hours. I didn't read that until after. Thanks for trying to help. Also what cars are on the cover of magazines? What's your name?
Good job. We live and we learn. 👍
This is true, just move forward
Every Mopar has a preg test in there somewhere! lol
Awesome video, man. I learned some stuff.
Thanks Roy, I agree they are panty droppers
Hey, you saved a cool car and it looks really, really straight - you are to be commended! It’s a pain that you have to sand and reshoot it, but if you don’t you’ll regret it every time you look at it - but cheer up, it will be even straighter after you block it again! Metallic is hard by itself, and when clear moves it around…. I jammed and did the engine compartment and trunk of my ‘66 Satellite convert in single stage metallic bronze urethane and it proved I should take it to someone to shoot the body. I do enjoy your videos!
i enjoy all your videos and hope you continue making them..🙂
Thank you I appreciate that
I dig what you said about who gives a fk what anyone thinks about the ride you're restoring. If it's a car you like,that's all that matters, straight up. Keep doing what you're doing.
Respect, I appreciate that. End of the day it's your car so RUN IT and be happy.
@@somewhatfast damn right
@@somewhatfast I'm working on a 1991 dodge stealth rt and after watching several videos on painting vehicles at home,the videos including yours,gives me the confidence to paint mine myself.
@@calid6960 Take your time, it's not that hard. Be prepared to sand an buff out imperfections. And maybe repaint some panels.
@@somewhatfast thanks for the advice, I appreciate it greatly
..That was a PROPER one man DIY car resto job and I loved it. True, honest and a lot of hard work. I did the same back in the 80's with a Ford Capri 3.0L E MK 1 V6.Took me 6 months and I can tell you it's a lot of work, so I can really relate to all the hours of hard work you put in. My heart sank when then the paint job failed, but at least you know where you went wrong. The only thing I would add apart from longer flash time is, after full coverage, spray a dust coat so that all those metalics sit down and avoid seperation. Great colour too. Please carry on. Everybody likes watching the truth. BAD CHAD springs to mind. Liked and subbed.
I have a not so popular '65 Olds Cutlass. I've been putting of working on it for years. Gonna get on it soon. I have a little inheritance $$. It's gonna be nice. Thanx for inspiring me.
This project has made you a much better body man. Experience is priceless.
65 olds cutlass is a bad ass car. Is it a 2 door?
Yes, 2 dr. Rocket 350.
Just found your channel. Fantastic video. Don’t stop .your channel It will grow. I would have ordered a car just like this but had to have a car to work, bought what was on the lot .
Thank you, what did you end up buying?
I like your approach.
Thanks for letting us see all that u did hope all goes well next time around myself I drive it till the time when I rebuild it
You did a good job, and saved an old car, I was lucky years ago, I had a friend who owned a body and finder shop, I managed to fix a few cars I had and paint in my back yard with a plastic tarp building I made my friend gave me pointers on different things with the body work also reading. I was on a budget material can be costly, it wasn't perfect eather but they' all came out well, my friends thought they looked good, had fun doing it, I think you did will. Im sure you can straighten out the areas.
Thanks Glenn
I had a couple Satellites like that one and I always liked the way the body was made on em and I always wanted to big block 4speed em but I didn't have em long enough. I'd get em at auctions for cheap and I couldn't turn down the offers for em in the late 80s and early 90s..They had 318s with automatic transmission and I wasn't too fond of brown and a certain medium green and both was the same color of the car inside and out..The only thing I did to em is put fat tires on the rear and 70s on the front with Cragars all the way around em and that improved 70 percent of the looks. I always wanted Roadrunner hoods but like I said I didn't have em very long and they wasn't in really bad shape except for a dent or 2 but I'd always fix everything on em..I always had to have dual exhaust cause both set normal with single exhaust, mixed matched hubcaps and the brown one just had plain rally rim's..I would love to have em both now..I've been noticing a lite blue 1 with white stripes Roadrunner in my area running and driving and a mat black one that's bein built. That's about it for the area I live in
They are awesome cars. Thanks carl
That's to bad, you put a lot of work in to it. I'll follow along to see how it comes out 🤠. Good 🤞 luck 😃. Thanks 👍 for sharing.
Liking the old car content!
Thanks dean
My 72 Skylark wished it had a paint job like that even lol. I wouldn't repaint it but thats me. I wouldn't own my car if I cared what people thought of it. For the price id say that was a win
It’s looking good ! Live the channel !
Thank you much appreciated
Thank you for making the video, it is very motivating.
Thanks you aaron
I've been painting cars for 35 years and still make mistakes. Don't beat yourself up about it, the best thing about painting cars is, everything can be fixed. If you screwed it up, you can fix it. You did a great job on the body work in such a short period of time and that color is perfect for the car. Fine metallics are finicky to spray, I always do a crosshatch pattern when spraying the last light coat before clear.
My only piece of advice is to wear a mask when sanding. Not wearing one has given me some respiratory issues that could have been avoided. My wife used to tell me I coughed in my sleep.
Keep up the good work. I subscribed and I'm looking forward to your next video
Thanks for the sub Bruce. Stay tuned , watch next video i resprayed the car.
Back in 98 my uncle bought a rust free black 73 Charger. We dropped a 440 in it and hooked a tow strap to it and pulled it out the garage. The brakes didn't work and tow strap came loose. Instead of steering it over into the flat I freaked out and took it backwards over the mountain and tore it all to hell. My uncle was pissed but he could t say anything cause he shouldnt of smoked pot with a teenager 🤣🤣 Man I regret that car gettin tore up. It was showroom solid but junkyard jewel after it met me
Good work 👍 ❤ watching your videos thanks. Peace ✌️
Your video's are very good! You help many and show you can run what you got!
I appreciate that alot. Thank you
Years ago when i was shooting acrylic enamel , you would have to swirl the paint around in the cup to keep the metalic from separating. That's probably what you are seeing, more or less metalic in the paint. Thanks for the video.
No it was fine until I clear coated it.
New subscriber here today, I totally agree, taking a car you dig, not what someone else digs and restoring it to your liking. I like rolling restorations which is what I call them. Get them driving and restore as you go but don't go crazy and spend way more then its ever going to be worth. That RR is pretty sweet, great body style in my opinion.
Awesome thank you, and welcome!
I hate to see you go bud I love the videos learned a thing or 2 from watching them such as how to rewire my 49 Chrysler Windsor from 6v to 12v but I understand you gotta make money for the family anyways thanks for being there
Thanks nick hope that Chrysler is going good
Looks nice with all those pieces of body trim that you are excluded looks very slick. That’s what I would’ve opted for too.
71-74 road runners and chargers are my favorite mopars.
We’re getting ready to “restore “ a 76 amc hornet for my 12 year old. He’s gonna learn how to do everything and have a wicked awesome car when it is done. Yep it’ll have bondo and fiberglass in it and might be painted with tractor paint but it’s gonna be a bad ass car that nobody else has
😮 Looks great 👍 great job
Thanks danny
Nick, I came across your channel. I hope you don’t quit. I know all about videoing and editing. It’s can be overwhelming at times. Your content is great bud. You got a new subscriber in me. I have a 68 cutlass im redoing and I think you just saved me soooo much money. Because what I just watched you do gave me hella confidence in doing the body work and paint myself. It’s not gone be a show car so why spend $$$$$$’s when I honestly can do it myself. Can’t wait to see your finished paint job. You sound like me…a perfectionist. lol I think you live pretty close to me. I live in Lake Worth and that’s about 56 min from that salvage place you went to up in Sunset. And I think you were like 48 min away. I’d like to stop by and chit chat sometime… maybe even do some work together. Anyways great job…and don’t quit bro…stay your course!
Oh wow I'm right up the road from you. I go to Lake worth all the time. Damn man a 68 cutlass is a bad ace ride, I'd live to see that.
Mr Some What Fast really appreciate the effort that you go to, so I get the privellige to watch you transform cars on a budget, please don't stop videoing ,love your work and effort , regards Rob
Thanks rob
I enjoy the videos, and you learn a lot more from failures than successes. I dig the car, hopefully you can sand off the clear and hit it again with another coat of single stage, good luck
That's is truth, thanks
Looks like a cool Mopar to me. Thx
Right on. Thanks Michael
Do a light dust coat on your last coat of color if your going to clear it will toe your metalics together then wait 15 min and clear it
Dude dont give up on your You Tube I love what you did to this car I had a 71 Road Runner 383 pistol grip I miss that car so bad I wish I had it back I love this body style. You have heart and really busted your ass on this build I love the color. I am going to give you and old school paint trick. The problem you are having is call modeling it happens in high metalic paints when you are spraying it. You will get clumps if you will of metalics that model together in patches . When I used to do auto body and paint I had a painter teach me a old school trick for modeling .When you are done and sprayed the last coat on he car and you see modeling leave a little paint in your cup take some reducer and dump in the cup and make it really think like water. Now turn your pressure way up about 45 psi hold the gun about three foot off the surface where the modeling it do not hold it close it has to be off the surface at least three feet make sure your pressure it high. Now hit it and fan the gun over the spot that is modeled the high pressure and the reducer will go int and spread the metalics out you can go beyond the area out it wont hurt the paint just make sure ou dont hold the gun close you can spray a full area with the hot reducer and fan technique . I would mix up some cheap paint on and old panel make it model and practice you will see what I mean pressure up way off the surface and fan the gun I love the car man you busted your ass on this one pat yourself on the back
I appreciate that thank you wish I had a 71 those cars are the coolest body style
@@somewhatfast You are welcome and you are welcome for taking the time out of my day to teach you how to take care of the modeling problem when spraying metallic's
@madmanmechanic8847 I used an enamel. The problem was the dry time was actually suppose to be 6 hours before applying. I applied clear 20 minutes after. That caused the metallics to fall. Watch the video the metallics are all perfect, until I clear coated it.
@@somewhatfast When you applied the clear coat it magnified the modeling you cannot cause your base coat to become liquid with just and application of clear the base coat . When you apply clear coat over a dried surface the clear coat will not make the base coat soluble and move your metallic around. Its already dry. I am not nit picking your paint job all I was trying to do is help you on the next paint job. I worked in paint industry for years and even went to tech school . Just trying to help you man. Good luck
@madmanmechanic8847 I didn't use a basecoat, I used a single stage it was already shiny. I'm sorry but you are wrong I explain it and show proof in the next video I always admit when I'm wrong and show my mistakes but that wasn't it. I did a drop coat. It was an acrylic enamel single stage, with a urethane clear. Data sheet said
CEAR 4-6 HOURS
I only waited like 20 max
That's a nice car!, I had a '73 Sebring Plus that same blue color I wish I still had it... The paint was so bad and flaky I'd run it through the car wash and it would wash the paint flakes off of it😊
🤣 Those old laquer paints were pretty bad.
Great job car looks great
Thank you Roger
Don't give up making videos I enjoyed watching you put that car together it does look decent
@rogerdumais7637 I have repainted it since this video. I'll try to post an update video.
Nice like your videos keep going we like watching them
Thanks so much
Good work!
Thank you danny
Nice work.
Thank you!
I’m not a body guy or a professional painter, but that drip edge looks a hell of a lot better than it did before bro 😁😁👍👍👍
Looks good.
Thank you
I sprayed acrylic enamel on one of my cars as a base coat. I just used reducer and sprayed it, and I put the wet look harder in the clear
Looks good, put it together, install a thumper cam and drive the heck out of it. Who knows someone will give you good money for it. Nice video
Add some stripes on hood and side would set it off. Factory did that also on certain packages
Yes! Roadrunner had a stripe down the side and over the roof. I might do a black hood and a plymouth logo on quarter panel not sure yet. You are right definitely needs something to break up all that blue.
Big Thumbs Up!
Thank you much appreciated 👊
Try Classic Industries. They have a good selection of replacement parts, in their Mopar book
Well done mate ! , what we down here in Australia would do to have cars like this to rebuild , keep at it .
Thank you brian
Good video brother. You've got such a wide range of general auto body talent. I'm more of an expert with painting, and my welding sucks. I've got a gas welder, and still trying to learn how to fill in holes in metal. I swear to god I can't fill holes without burning bigger holes! Anyhow, I sprayed a 1984 El Camino black with a gold top. The gold my customer wanted was from a 1971 Chevelle that we could only find in single stage paint. That was the LAST time I EVER spray single stage paint. Same problems on my El Camino as what you had here. Single stage sucks! I had to redo the top of the car at least 6 times before I was satisfied. Single stage seems like a great idea until you go to putting it on, where you discover all the horrible problems with it. I learned a good lesson from that job!
Painted a dozen cars in base clear this was my first single stage. Definitely a whole different animal.
I’ve been painting cars a long time just always let everything flash off after it’s dry you can go back and do a control coat or fog coat to hide the blotche spots just give it time to dry
Thank you
All 74' plym roadrunner/satelites get a dent on the quarter where it sticks out over the wheel. Ive had two with the same dent! One of them was concours perfect survivor car other than the dent.
Nice!!!
Thank you!
Nice car!
Thanks duane
Still a million times better it’ll all look the same flying down the road.
Preciate that!
I hope you keep making videos, but if you don't I get it. It's just inspiring to watch somebody who doesn't normally do this kind of stuff. I think well if he can do it, I think I can also. May be taking big bites there?!?! 😂 I not afraid of mechanicals but I've never done any kind of body work. Hope to see more from you soon but if not best of luck to you. The car overall looks great compared to when you first got it.
Not sure what you Mean. I've been working on cars my whole life and I've painted 10 cars. Maybe that's bad if I come off as a guy that doesn't seem like he has never messed with old cars. I've had more old cars than I can count.
@@somewhatfast I've watched plenty of your videos. I know you know how to work on cars, sorry it came across wrong. The point I was trying to make is you don't work on cars for a living. What you know is what you've learned yourself over the years, no disrespect intended on my part.
@leekidwell8795 I got you, i know you are down for the cause and have been around the channel almost since the beginning. Thanks for the support lee.
@@somewhatfastYes sir! One Texas man to another, I got your back always!!!
From a veteran painter. After you sand it down. Dust the base coat in layers as dry as possible. Clear like usual
Watch the next video I repainted it. Single stage non metallic
I think this model road runner model, even though not most popular, is still a nice looking muscle car.
Dude just found your videos, love the editing keep it up
💯Thank you
Stick with it! I like your style, no quit. I gotta subscribe. Thanks.
Thank you pat!
You've got a cool wagon!
@@patborovicka7938 I put a 5.2 magnum in it and an overdrive trans out of a 1995 ram
Good video man.
Thanks will d
That's pretty damn good work. Not spending a ton of money
Thanks roy
I had the same model but gray with red stripes once upon a time. Probably about 4 or 5 years old at the time.
This car actually has a hood from Grey roadrunner on it that had a 318 in it.
@@somewhatfast Mine was a 318 with the stubby slapstick shifter
@robertarthurs328 not sure if mine is original but it has a slap stick in it too. Those are the coolest
Invest in an air file brother do when your doing work on a quarter panel like you did on passenger side of this road runner, you can cut your filler down with the air file and it’s gonna help you shape a panel so much better and quicker and it will be flat instead of wavy like if you cut it with a DA. For no longer than you’ve been doing this tho, you’ve got great potential and great skills!! You’ll refine those skills as you go buddy!! Keep it up man, but get you an inline air file (harbor freight even has em fairly cheap, less than $50 I think but worth every penny!!)
I have an air file bought is 12 years ago.
badass looks sick man
Thanks bighoss
Mate i would love to be healthy enough to restore a car like yours ground up you have a lot of things in your favor dont waste it while you have it
I'm never going to stop messing with cars, thanks russel
Just get it looking decent and get it on the road is the most important thing. Keep on keeping on brother.
Posted 2 now videos since this one, check them out!
I had a 73 rr black white stripes and I lowd it but wrecked it
Unbelievable that the flux core wire weld doesn’t burn right through the sheet metal. I have a flux core welder and I have been too afraid of trying to do sheet metal work on my car with it maybe I’ll just give it a shot. Nice work though fella keep it up 👍
Turn the heat down low and just do tacks. Been welding sheet metal with flux for over 10 years. Only on old school cars though. Next stuff you'll metal right through.
Nice man
Thank you
To prevent runs .The correct way is to stay from the bottom up and walk from the back to the front .Do the roof first then cover the roof to prevent overspray on the roof. Then do the sides 2nd. Remember start from the back to the front spraying from the bottom up. After it drys for 1 day block sand with 600 then 1200. Blow the car down with air then tackle rag the whole car and now you are ready for the clear coat.😊 Have a great day
Thanks
No judgement from me. My first paint job back in the early 80's was a mess to say the least. I hope you keep making videos. if the editing is a problem don't do it, As always I liked and shared. All my very best
Thanks bobby
Fun video. I have a 71 charger and I have kind of lost interest. Ty, for the video.
Doesn’t look terrible but I hope you do repaint it. You’ve got a solid foundation on there now. Scrape the runs flat with a razor, DA everything flat with 600 and hit it again. I’d used base/clear. Make sure your final coat of base is sprayed as a drop coat aka orientation coat. I’d let the base coat dry for a few hours before clearing and make sure you let each coat of clear really flash good. Touch something that’s masked, when the clear feels similar to the tackiness of the sticky side of masking tape that’s when you’re ready for your next coat. Flash times listed on TDS sheets go right out the window when you’re not spraying in a climate controlled booth with good airflow. Always extend your flash times. Looking forward to seeing the respray ✌️
Already repainted it last week with a single stage non metallic
@@somewhatfast awesome. How’d it turn out? Is there another video of that paint job?
@christrainor1129 Alot better, I've been color sanding and working it all out when I can here and there. Car isn't as straight as it was the first time since I DA sanded it to repaint.
2 stage's base color coat covers then clear better flash times 😉
nice color choice
Thanks
always liked these things there only downside was smog equipment( who runs that anyway ) and living in the shadow of there older siblings the charger the cuda and challenger.
I agree these cars are very beautiful and overlooked. Their down fall was the smog, big bumper guards, grill that didn't flow well, and the roadrunner had a stupid ah looking stripe down the side which a roadrunner never had prior. Take all that stuff off and some paint on the headlight bezels (which im going to show next) and they are pretty slick cars.
dont give up the videos it takes time but it will pay off
Nice work ! I love 71 - 74🔥👻🎃💀🎃👻🎃💀🎃👻🎃💀🎃👻🎃💀🎃👻🎃💀🔥
Underrated body style have a happy Halloween 🎃🦇
Use some black paint as a guide coat too see low and high spots and which parts , areas need more Bondo .
Yeah, I used red paint as guide coat.