Awesome video. Very helpful . I am Restoring a 96 f350 crew cab and i want to strip the whole thing to bare metal. Was just using a air da Sander until i found this video. Never would have thought to use my Polisher. Thanks fo saving me a bunch of time 🤘🤘
Oh yes the heat and the coarse grit on that steel will make a mess. 80 grit and don't stay in the same spot to long and don't press hard and concave your pannels
Learn something new today. I have a 98 M3 that was resprayed but not in a good way. Want to strip the paint down to the bare metal and have it repainted it to factory quality.
A quick question. I poked the paint supplier on their dtm epoxy primer sealer and their response was to prep to 400 grit. There is a huge gap between 80 and 400 that leaves me curious. I think it's the paint guy confused by my email. I said "Primer Sealer" but I think he interpreted that as final primer before paint. I am going to block this car out get it straight and flat.
220 really is really as course as you want to go on any material besides bare metal. 320 is great too. 400 grit is final step if you are applying sealer right before a base or topcoat. But if you are talking what grit to use before you prime over bare metal or body filler work then 220 on a da is perfect
I'm a DIY painter I have a WHITE Honda Civic that looks horrendous in white////got it used it was the only civic that they had on the lot that was fairly new and available for zero down...what tools do I need to take all the paint off quickly....the repainting part of it will be pretty quick and easy for me
The big boy really does the job nicely. My old heavy polisher is definitely a better tool than my little 5" DA. I've got a chipped up hood I need to attend to and the new aircraft stripper is garbage. You still have to sand after using it. What are you using for a sanding backer? When someone has f'ed up the metal finish do you end up relying on high build primer (ala 30 grit) rather than thinning the sheet metal to get it smooth?
Ya it really works very well. If someone has messed up the metal I would go over the effected area with a new piece of 80 grit on my da and blow it off really good then skim coat it with metal glazing puddy ( plastic body filler glaze) and block it down straight before primer
Thanks for this. Can you provide the names of the buffer and the sandpaper that goes with it? I'm unfamiliar with this area and don't want to get the wrong stuff. Thanks
Thanks I'm glad your finding some simple trick to help you out. So blocking down to bare metal.... yes you can. But you can't block past bare metal unless your doing metal finishing work with a file than you can also block out steel absolutely
One thing I want to mention is you can't block the surface metal with anything coarser than 80 grit. If you have sanded on the metal around your lowspots with coarser than 80 grit you will gouge the metal and when you prime your scratches will always show up in your paint.
Your welcome. I'm going to start doing more training videos with tricks for anybody to use soon I'm just digging my way out of a mess that happened a few months ago.
i see you are using sanding discs on the polisher, was wondering if you have tried using strip and clean discs and how they perform. Looking to strip and entire car down.
Yes it's a hook and loop. You can buy sandpaper off of Amazon that will fit that pad. They have 7 inch in 80. I had 8 inch and just trimmed up the edge around it.
I was going to ask if that's a Metabo sp18va, but at the end of the video I see that it is a Hitachi with the same part number. Interesting, didn't know they were the same.
@@BlackStacheBuilds that's true, what I was working on just needed striping, no metal work. I have a Mustang now that crazed bad on the hood and I'll use this same method, with respirator.
Aluminum is softer so I wouldn't recommend this method for it. I'd only use a DA with 80 grit to strip aluminum. 80 grit goes pretty fast if it hasn't been painted a couple times.
@@BlackStacheBuilds It still has the military CARC paint on it...I hear it's a BEAR to sand...and Carcinogenic to breath...so respirator for sure, but I'll give the DA a go. Thanks!
You can use 80 grit just make sure your not digging the contour down. With steel you have a surface that doesn't get chewed away with 80 grit. This polisher might not be a good idea for fiberglass. I would use your da sander with 80 grit. 120 grit cuts super nice and easy to prep into 220 grit.
What if you strip with 80, run over it with 180, sem etch primer, red scotchbrite, 2 coats hi teck 1k primer sealer, 600, then on to base? What are your thoughts?
@@BlackStacheBuilds i bought the Harbor freight 7 inch polisher after watching this video. A little cheaper than the hitachi. Do you have a video where you discuss all steps for a DIY paint job ? Sand to bare metal with 80 grit, Epoxy Prime, Sand again ? Epoxy 2nd coat ? Also, what is an alternative primer to epoxy ?
Loop. I only use sticky with 100 grits and finer. I do use sticky for everything though. It's cheaper and I can keep my blocks straighten out with sticky. Velcro blocks do more bad than good unless the block is a very herd block that doesn't ever loose its shape.
@@BlackStacheBuilds yep I love me some 911s. I hope to restore this and maybe see about trading up or sideways depending on the car I find at the time. Im looking at the 75 style 911.
@@BlackStacheBuilds thanks super excited to try this, so tired of working with the orbital and palm sanders, hopefully saves a bunch of time, subscribed, will be in touch!
@@Izzy323x have fun Stripping!!!!$$$$ I have a 1965 cadillac we are going to do a video on doing this same process to all the outside skins to all the panels. I'm excited to see how much time we are going to save
Hi, i need to strip my hood to metal, then i have dents to fill on bare metal.. i have a 1k wash primer for bare metal application, can i spray 1k wash primer then after spray 2k filler primer without sanding the wash primer?
Yes you can and that is how that system is used and I have done that my whole carrier. We just switched to this epoxy only as we are trying it out still to see if we keep only epoxy or use 1k and 2k system. But results are doing great with epoxy only with the CRE 321 thar us. Be sure to wait the recommended time before you apply the 2 k over the 1 k. And you have a time line that you have to put the 2k on before the 1 k dryes to much. I can help you figure those windows if you let me know what products you are using I can research them for you
@@BlackStacheBuilds no prpblem, i ended up using 2k upol high build which it can be applied directly to metal and flatted it off and sprayed base coat and clear, came out looking great
Thanks I live your input on this as thar tool is great it really is. The disc's are expensive on that and the guy who actually stripped this hood done his whole car with the tool your talking about and his input about what one works best is hands down the polisher way. I have not used the tool you use but I do trust the polisher over it. It would be hard to strip and prepthe panels in one sweep it saves so much time.
Hi that pad was just a Velcro polishing pad. It's just a Hitachi polished but this polisher doesn't orbit like the new polishers they are using now days. This polisher has one direction not 2 like a duel action polisher. Duel action polishers and sanders don't strip paint fast like this one does and it's just a Velcro hook and look 80 grit disc. This polishing pad is 7" but I had 8" 80 grit for my big red sander in this video so I put the 8" disc on and trimmed the edge off with scissors.
@@BlackStacheBuilds I have a similar rotary polisher with a 7" backing plate. Good idea to use as a sander. the orange Citristrip will take off any paint, still may need to cover with plastic and then use a scraper. Has not been changed as it is not volatile solvent based. citristrip will dissolve the epoxy off the back of a mirror.
Underside is a different animal lol. All the pockets and edges take a long time to sand as it is. Mechanically stripping it down would take days to do. Do not use liquid paint stripper on the underside of it. If the paint isn’t pealing and is in good shape then I would pressure wash it off and clean it good then just prep it out for paint. If you need to take all the paint off and start over I’d recommend sandblasting it but make sure to stay a few feet away when using a highly effective blaster. It can warp the steel and cause a wavy surface on the topside.
@@BlackStacheBuilds if you don’t mind answering, what stuff are you recommending after sanding the fiber glass?? Epoxy primer than 2k primer? What brands do you use?
Thanks for the advice. I am new at this and will be stripping my car this coming week. What rust preventer do you use on your panels after you sand? Or do you go straight into primer? How many coats of primer, paint, and clear coat do you usually use? Which primer and paint products do you recommend? I have a 1963 Lincoln Continental I am painting myself.
wtf bro! i searched on RUclips because i need to remove old paint/ primer whatever to do a fresh paint job. before i went on RUclips i used a 80grit on my palm sander and that sht took lit 1hr to do the roof... what are you using on that rotary i must try!
Ya bro! You got a whole roof done with your Da in one hour! Dam! That is way fast bro! It would take atleast 3 hours so you did good but ya you would be able to strip a whole car in 3 hours if your that fast with this method. It’s just a rotisserie one direction a da is duel action meaning it spins like a polisher but also rotating in a small circle. So I use 80 grit on this video. 120 grit will work well too.
This epoxy I'm using is CRE 321 series. This epoxy primer was getting talked about alot as a favor in the comunity as they say it sands like a 2x and most epoxies are not that way. They are sticky and clog up sandpaper so before we tried this CRE series we only used epoxy when there was no sanding to be done. Industrial sandblasted metal apply epoxy then straight to top coat is how epoxies are normally used in the industry. This epoxy is a high build and we can achieve more mill thickness with lesser coats than 2k primers. So there are a few ways that this epoxy is cheating the system to making it more cost effective and less time consuming to process your final product.
@@BlackStacheBuilds hi thanks for reply .... the mipa 2:1 and multi mix ( U.K.) are 4:1 and sand like 2k primer.... so I’m told.. I’m using paint stripper to strip a few panels then epoxy - guide coat then block 180 find any high/ lows etc
@@richreece8840 I haven't blocked this CRE yet but I will after I fix the damages on the hood that are visible now with this shiny epoxy we are trying out. It'd great to have a shiny product so you can visually see your high and lows to address them before I apply a plastic body filler AKA bonds. We are going to epoxy this hood again with CRE after we straighten it with those fillers. Can't wait to get to final blocking this epoxy and I hope it's not to hard to sand. I don't use 180 to block though I used it in the past alot. I use 220 cause the block marks are not as hard and time consuming to get out.
@@BlackStacheBuilds I allways use guide coat .... I like to see the dent/ lows... I’d like a epoxy that blocks out well..... with high build I usually prime twice 1 for rough block ( see high lows then 2nd for paint
Twisted cup? Show me a picture. I have an angle grinder and have used alot of disc's on them. Are you using air pistol grip angle grinders or a electric industrial grinder? Twisted cup I will look it up. Is that the actual name? I'm all about finding a faster better way. I know my polishers cut paint off fast and I'm preparing the metal for epoxy all in the same motion. Stripping and getting into epoxy faster than this video teaches you would be impressive. We are stripping and epoxying all within just a couple hours. That is epoxy cleaned out of your gun and everything. The people that are not experienced are doing it in this time frame.
@@BlackStacheBuilds I guess what I’m trying to know is if I strip the paint of does it need to be poxy right after ? I’m not trying paint yet how long after stripping paint do I have to paint it
@@BlackStacheBuilds Yeah I am using BAUER 5.7 Amp 6 in. Short-Throw Random Orbit DA Polisher/Sander. I am using 80 grit pads I got from amazon called SACKORANGE. Its fine to tilt the polisher on its edge? It wont gouge the metal? I did it on a small section and it goes to bare metal within seconds.
@BlackStacheBuilds I've done my bonnet in epoxy, and then do repairs as you said. One part at a time at this stage as I'm just a one man army. But thank you for the info
Sandblasting is definitely the way to go but it can warp the outer skin of your pannels cause of the heat. So you would have to be cautious and blast atleast a few feet away
Your only supposed to take off the materials off the metal. Slow the buffer down and always check your surface for heat on any tool you use. Keep moving around not staying in one spot. You got this
Thank you my friend for posting this video,exactly what I was looking for, I’m going to start sanding my 2000 crv .good job .
Not a painter but I agree and like the way you sand
Awesome video. Very helpful . I am Restoring a 96 f350 crew cab and i want to strip the whole thing to bare metal. Was just using a air da Sander until i found this video. Never would have thought to use my Polisher. Thanks fo saving me a bunch of time 🤘🤘
Thanks heaps; i did my whole ‘73 Ford Maverick with your help from this!!
That is freaking awesome man. That is why I train people on here so I get input like this. You just made my day man thanks for
Never paint a car before! Here to learn from the beginning!
Thanks for a great no-nonsense video!!
Glad you liked it!
Thank you brother! I was literally about to use a flap disk and had not really considered the heat factor.
Oh yes the heat and the coarse grit on that steel will make a mess. 80 grit and don't stay in the same spot to long and don't press hard and concave your pannels
Learn something new today. I have a 98 M3 that was resprayed but not in a good way. Want to strip the paint down to the bare metal and have it repainted it to factory quality.
Need you to do the whole thing at once… like the power washing videos.. so satisfying
I’ll have to make one of the whole process thanks for watching my videos
THIS IS THE BEST HACK EVER!! You save me a lot of time!!! Thank you!!!
😮 ok so low rpm is key. Thanx bud..
Definitely
A quick question. I poked the paint supplier on their dtm epoxy primer sealer and their response was to prep to 400 grit. There is a huge gap between 80 and 400 that leaves me curious. I think it's the paint guy confused by my email. I said "Primer Sealer" but I think he interpreted that as final primer before paint. I am going to block this car out get it straight and flat.
220 really is really as course as you want to go on any material besides bare metal. 320 is great too. 400 grit is final step if you are applying sealer right before a base or topcoat. But if you are talking what grit to use before you prime over bare metal or body filler work then 220 on a da is perfect
Back in 1980 i stripped a car with chemical stripper. It was a pain w I th the good stuff. So thats the only way to go thanks for the video
Anytime!!!
Need to be running ceramic sandpapers they are the absolute best trust me I've been at this for 20 plus years
I'm going to try them
I'm a DIY painter I have a WHITE Honda Civic that looks horrendous in white////got it used it was the only civic that they had on the lot that was fairly new and available for zero down...what tools do I need to take all the paint off quickly....the repainting part of it will be pretty quick and easy for me
So much good info!
What answer?
Where can i purchase that same 80 grit sandpaper you was using on the hood?
Great info
Glad you think so!
The big boy really does the job nicely. My old heavy polisher is definitely a better tool than my little 5" DA. I've got a chipped up hood I need to attend to and the new aircraft stripper is garbage. You still have to sand after using it. What are you using for a sanding backer? When someone has f'ed up the metal finish do you end up relying on high build primer (ala 30 grit) rather than thinning the sheet metal to get it smooth?
Ya it really works very well. If someone has messed up the metal I would go over the effected area with a new piece of 80 grit on my da and blow it off really good then skim coat it with metal glazing puddy ( plastic body filler glaze) and block it down straight before primer
Omg, where can I get that polisher you used that worked the fastest???????
Lol it does work well. Really any polisher that spins like that one will work the same.
Any variable speed rotational polisher will do the same
Ok thank you. I have a Bauer palm sander but it’s not working THIS well and it’s taking forever 😭
Thanks brother.
Thanks for this.
Can you provide the names of the buffer and the sandpaper that goes with it?
I'm unfamiliar with this area and don't want to get the wrong stuff.
Thanks
I know it’s very slow but can you block down to bare metal? Great videos and I’m learning a lot!
Thanks I'm glad your finding some simple trick to help you out. So blocking down to bare metal.... yes you can. But you can't block past bare metal unless your doing metal finishing work with a file than you can also block out steel absolutely
One thing I want to mention is you can't block the surface metal with anything coarser than 80 grit. If you have sanded on the metal around your lowspots with coarser than 80 grit you will gouge the metal and when you prime your scratches will always show up in your paint.
Thank You. I’ve learned so much
Your welcome. I'm going to start doing more training videos with tricks for anybody to use soon I'm just digging my way out of a mess that happened a few months ago.
Nice one! What speed are you running the polisher at? Thanks
I think around 3k
i see you are using sanding discs on the polisher, was wondering if you have tried using strip and clean discs and how they perform. Looking to strip and entire car down.
This way is faster on big areas. When you get into small spaces the ones your talking about will get in there better to remove paint.
I assume your polisher is using a padded backer and it is hook and loop? Where are you buying your 80 grit discs?
Yes it's a hook and loop. You can buy sandpaper off of Amazon that will fit that pad. They have 7 inch in 80. I had 8 inch and just trimmed up the edge around it.
If you were stripping a 1972 Monte, would you remove the doors? Just wondering if it's worth it or not.
Any panel is easier to strip when it's off the vehicle. It's easier to paint and prime too. Even masking is simpler
I was going to ask if that's a Metabo sp18va, but at the end of the video I see that it is a Hitachi with the same part number. Interesting, didn't know they were the same.
I really like that polisher it's light weight. I have seen a Dewalt that is a little lighter.
A buiffer is what I always used but I used 120 grit, scratches not as bad.
120 grit would work great but you would have to go back with 80 grit for filler work.
Thanks for watching my video
@@BlackStacheBuilds that's true, what I was working on just needed striping, no metal work. I have a Mustang now that crazed bad on the hood and I'll use this same method, with respirator.
amazing
Glad you think so!
What's your recommendation for stripping aluminum panels, say, on a HMMWV? Can I use the same process, maybe with 120 grit or something?
Aluminum is softer so I wouldn't recommend this method for it. I'd only use a DA with 80 grit to strip aluminum. 80 grit goes pretty fast if it hasn't been painted a couple times.
@@BlackStacheBuilds It still has the military CARC paint on it...I hear it's a BEAR to sand...and Carcinogenic to breath...so respirator for sure, but I'll give the DA a go. Thanks!
What grit # would you recommend for taking paint off of a fiberglass body part?
You can use 80 grit just make sure your not digging the contour down. With steel you have a surface that doesn't get chewed away with 80 grit. This polisher might not be a good idea for fiberglass. I would use your da sander with 80 grit. 120 grit cuts super nice and easy to prep into 220 grit.
@@BlackStacheBuilds thank you Sir 👍!
Great information 👍
Use chemical paint stripper or you’ll damage the fiberglass real quick!
@@HotRollBrad fiberglass absorbs fluid easily. It might work. I will have to try it.
80 grit on the polisher?
Do you have a of tools I need to strip my car pan
Will this be good for sanding me whole truck before prime and new paint?
Yup it would work great
What if you strip with 80, run over it with 180, sem etch primer, red scotchbrite, 2 coats hi teck 1k primer sealer, 600, then on to base? What are your thoughts?
Ya that would work for sure!. This product just eliminates the use of etch primer so you use less material and you get it done faster.
@@BlackStacheBuilds i bought the Harbor freight 7 inch polisher after watching this video. A little cheaper than the hitachi. Do you have a video where you discuss all steps for a DIY paint job ? Sand to bare metal with 80 grit, Epoxy Prime, Sand again ? Epoxy 2nd coat ?
Also, what is an alternative primer to epoxy ?
What kind of epoxy primer do you use? High build or just regular?
I use the CRE 321 PPG. It's a high build epoxy. And it's sandable aswell it's really nice stuff.
Great video iam looking to start sanding the body on my 62 impala roof and quarters.wat grit on the sand paper can you use
80 grit is the best to clean it to bare steel. The steel will be prepared with 80 grit so you can either prime it or add filler to it
@@BlackStacheBuilds then after 80 with wat grit can I use to primer it
Your steel will be ready for primer with 80 grit. 80 grit on bare steel is great for primer
@@BlackStacheBuilds ok thank you
@@BlackStacheBuilds i just had 3 people to sand the body with 220 or 320 than primer
You're the man brother, I have to test this out, got a 77 Porsche 924 that needs a lot of love. Are those sticky or loop pads you got on there?
Loop. I only use sticky with 100 grits and finer. I do use sticky for everything though. It's cheaper and I can keep my blocks straighten out with sticky. Velcro blocks do more bad than good unless the block is a very herd block that doesn't ever loose its shape.
I want to build a porche 911 so bad around a 1967 I think is the body I like
@@BlackStacheBuilds yep I love me some 911s. I hope to restore this and maybe see about trading up or sideways depending on the car I find at the time. Im looking at the 75 style 911.
@@BlackStacheBuilds thanks super excited to try this, so tired of working with the orbital and palm sanders, hopefully saves a bunch of time, subscribed, will be in touch!
@@Izzy323x have fun Stripping!!!!$$$$ I have a 1965 cadillac we are going to do a video on doing this same process to all the outside skins to all the panels. I'm excited to see how much time we are going to save
Hi, i need to strip my hood to metal, then i have dents to fill on bare metal.. i have a 1k wash primer for bare metal application, can i spray 1k wash primer then after spray 2k filler primer without sanding the wash primer?
Yes you can and that is how that system is used and I have done that my whole carrier. We just switched to this epoxy only as we are trying it out still to see if we keep only epoxy or use 1k and 2k system. But results are doing great with epoxy only with the CRE 321 thar us. Be sure to wait the recommended time before you apply the 2 k over the 1 k. And you have a time line that you have to put the 2k on before the 1 k dryes to much. I can help you figure those windows if you let me know what products you are using I can research them for you
Sorry delayed response I didn't see this text
@@BlackStacheBuilds no prpblem, i ended up using 2k upol high build which it can be applied directly to metal and flatted it off and sprayed base coat and clear, came out looking great
@@universewonders1 I want to see
@@BlackStacheBuilds ruclips.net/user/shortsf-sk3OkMc60?feature=share
Would a harbour fright polisher get the job done aswell as the one you are usjng?
Any polisher that is not a duel action orbit polisher will work for this method.
@@BlackStacheBuilds thank you
Hey boss thanks for the video but you an also use a drum sander like contour harbor freight has a cheaper one
Thanks I live your input on this as thar tool is great it really is. The disc's are expensive on that and the guy who actually stripped this hood done his whole car with the tool your talking about and his input about what one works best is hands down the polisher way. I have not used the tool you use but I do trust the polisher over it. It would be hard to strip and prepthe panels in one sweep it saves so much time.
@@BlackStacheBuilds u know what u right bro thanks 😊
What pad are you using? That worked great. Thanks for the video
Hi that pad was just a Velcro polishing pad. It's just a Hitachi polished but this polisher doesn't orbit like the new polishers they are using now days. This polisher has one direction not 2 like a duel action polisher. Duel action polishers and sanders don't strip paint fast like this one does and it's just a Velcro hook and look 80 grit disc. This polishing pad is 7" but I had 8" 80 grit for my big red sander in this video so I put the 8" disc on and trimmed the edge off with scissors.
Those are all good as long as you don't get stuck with a panel with old school lacquer
You know what. I have never stripped old-school lacquer off of anything before lol. Does it gum up?
@@BlackStacheBuilds I have a similar rotary polisher with a 7" backing plate. Good idea to use as a sander. the orange Citristrip will take off any paint, still may need to cover with plastic and then use a scraper. Has not been changed as it is not volatile solvent based. citristrip will dissolve the epoxy off the back of a mirror.
paint remover and a pressure washer seems the easiest on the metal?
Can you tell me the brand of sanding discs and your polisher?
Hitachi polisher and Norton sanding discs
can u flip it over and show us how u do the underside?
Underside is a different animal lol. All the pockets and edges take a long time to sand as it is. Mechanically stripping it down would take days to do. Do not use liquid paint stripper on the underside of it. If the paint isn’t pealing and is in good shape then I would pressure wash it off and clean it good then just prep it out for paint. If you need to take all the paint off and start over I’d recommend sandblasting it but make sure to stay a few feet away when using a highly effective blaster. It can warp the steel and cause a wavy surface on the topside.
Would 180 or 240 sandpaper be safer in terms of not damaging the metal? Will the edges and corners be distorted with 80?
You can use 80 on your corners but not with this machine. Use a DA sander for that
What you call that paint remover? And where can i buy it?
I don’t recommend using it. It’s aircraft stripper. It can burn you badly and the new formulation of it doesn’t work as good as the old one.
I am doing the same on my hood. Not commin off that easy though
Really it should be. I wonder if the product on it was mixed wrong and didn’t harden properly and it’s sticky. Is it gumming up on you?
What grit do you recommend to strip fiberglass corvette?
Just use 80 grit on your DA. Don’t use the polisher it will cut the shape out of your fiberglass
@@BlackStacheBuilds if you don’t mind answering, what stuff are you recommending after sanding the fiber glass?? Epoxy primer than 2k primer? What brands do you use?
great video do you have a link to what you used?
Any variable speed rotational polisher or sander will do the same. Thanks
So a angle grinder and 80 grit sandpaper on low RPMs? Ima in the prosess right now of sanding my Ford Flex as a whole down and re painting it.
My methods of stripping I use a small polisher for small areas that my big polisher won’t reach
Wait, i have a drum sander, would that work?
Send me a picture of it
Do you use viniger
Vinegar gets hard water spots off your prepped out panel before paint.
Thanks for the advice. I am new at this and will be stripping my car this coming week. What rust preventer do you use on your panels after you sand? Or do you go straight into primer? How many coats of primer, paint, and clear coat do you usually use? Which primer and paint products do you recommend? I have a 1963 Lincoln Continental I am painting myself.
Rust mort, then cre321 ppg, ppg deltron 2000 for color and clear you should use a recommended brand through ppg for the deltron 2000.
wtf bro! i searched on RUclips because i need to remove old paint/ primer whatever to do a fresh paint job. before i went on RUclips i used a 80grit on my palm sander and that sht took lit 1hr to do the roof... what are you using on that rotary i must try!
Ya bro! You got a whole roof done with your Da in one hour! Dam! That is way fast bro! It would take atleast 3 hours so you did good but ya you would be able to strip a whole car in 3 hours if your that fast with this method. It’s just a rotisserie one direction a da is duel action meaning it spins like a polisher but also rotating in a small circle. So I use 80 grit on this video. 120 grit will work well too.
Not down to bare metal, just took off the clear and base. Your method is much quicker. So it's just a 80 grit pad on the rotary?
Hi what epoxy you use also do you block epoxy when dry or got wet in wet with high build primer thanks
This epoxy I'm using is CRE 321 series. This epoxy primer was getting talked about alot as a favor in the comunity as they say it sands like a 2x and most epoxies are not that way. They are sticky and clog up sandpaper so before we tried this CRE series we only used epoxy when there was no sanding to be done. Industrial sandblasted metal apply epoxy then straight to top coat is how epoxies are normally used in the industry. This epoxy is a high build and we can achieve more mill thickness with lesser coats than 2k primers. So there are a few ways that this epoxy is cheating the system to making it more cost effective and less time consuming to process your final product.
@@BlackStacheBuilds hi thanks for reply .... the mipa 2:1 and multi mix ( U.K.) are 4:1 and sand like 2k primer.... so I’m told.. I’m using paint stripper to strip a few panels then epoxy - guide coat then block 180 find any high/ lows etc
@@richreece8840 I haven't blocked this CRE yet but I will after I fix the damages on the hood that are visible now with this shiny epoxy we are trying out. It'd great to have a shiny product so you can visually see your high and lows to address them before I apply a plastic body filler AKA bonds. We are going to epoxy this hood again with CRE after we straighten it with those fillers. Can't wait to get to final blocking this epoxy and I hope it's not to hard to sand. I don't use 180 to block though I used it in the past alot. I use 220 cause the block marks are not as hard and time consuming to get out.
@@BlackStacheBuilds I allways use guide coat .... I like to see the dent/ lows... I’d like a epoxy that blocks out well..... with high build I usually prime twice 1 for rough block ( see high lows then 2nd for paint
@@richreece8840 I use powder guide coat for everything when I sand. It helps a lot.
40 years we all use paint stripper went over what a grinder
What are you saying in this comment can you reword it?
Where can I find this grit and under what name can I find it.
Norton. Just at your local auto paint store
Polisher speed?
I'm not sure if I said on here. But it doesn't take alot. More on the slower speed not polish speed
YES SIR !!!
Get it!!!!
I like an angle grinder with a twisted cup wheel
Twisted cup? Show me a picture. I have an angle grinder and have used alot of disc's on them. Are you using air pistol grip angle grinders or a electric industrial grinder? Twisted cup I will look it up. Is that the actual name? I'm all about finding a faster better way. I know my polishers cut paint off fast and I'm preparing the metal for epoxy all in the same motion. Stripping and getting into epoxy faster than this video teaches you would be impressive. We are stripping and epoxying all within just a couple hours. That is epoxy cleaned out of your gun and everything. The people that are not experienced are doing it in this time frame.
What kind of polisher is that? how fast does it go?
It can go super fast but I’m sure I run it at 2500 rpm’s at its max and slower for curved areas and edges
Hey is this the one you were talking about
What are you asking
@@BlackStacheBuilds I guess what I’m trying to know is if I strip the paint of does it need to be poxy right after ?
I’m not trying paint yet how long after stripping paint do I have to paint it
@@BlackStacheBuilds do you have a business number ?
Can this way remove house paint also? Got my car stolen and they painted with house paint.
Yes it will chew off the paint still it might get gummy on the sanding disc. You might have to use more sand paper than normal
@@BlackStacheBuilds thank you so much I’m gonna try that
I used a DA and 80 grit but one small section (3 inch by 3 inch) goes down to bare metal in like 15 minutes. What am i doing wrong?
I am keeping the DA flat. Should I tilt it and dig into the metal?
The polisher with 80 grit is what you need
@whojackson so are you using the polisher? If your taking to bare metal then yes you can dig on the edge
@@BlackStacheBuilds Yeah I am using BAUER 5.7 Amp 6 in. Short-Throw Random Orbit DA Polisher/Sander. I am using 80 grit pads I got from amazon called SACKORANGE. Its fine to tilt the polisher on its edge? It wont gouge the metal? I did it on a small section and it goes to bare metal within seconds.
👍
So 80 grit down to metal and any repairs. & Straight onto epoxy,
Epoxy before filler is better
@BlackStacheBuilds I've done my bonnet in epoxy, and then do repairs as you said. One part at a time at this stage as I'm just a one man army. But thank you for the info
Quick question after this I use poxy ? I’m not painting for a couple months can I leave it like that ??
Where do I get the fist one 80grit polisher
It's made through Milwaukee
What is it like 8" stick on 80 grip
You can order 80 grit in the size of pad you are using. This is the Velcro hook and loop
What about a sand blaster ?
Sandblasting is definitely the way to go but it can warp the outer skin of your pannels cause of the heat. So you would have to be cautious and blast atleast a few feet away
The rotary,even without pressing into the panel or moving too slowly, heats up the metal too much. DA or Bondo eater sand it.
Your only supposed to take off the materials off the metal. Slow the buffer down and always check your surface for heat on any tool you use. Keep moving around not staying in one spot. You got this
On a car thats had a layer of bog on it before.....
I hope that’s your own personal car that your getting dust all over right next to where you’re working.
Some people just don't get it
Anything that's had filled in it will gum up that disc in 10 seconds....
Wear a respirator, old iron may have leaded paint…
Idk if that is the right one ☝️ thought
Get a mask ! 😮
It was a demo I will be ok
Lmao
Silly people nothing a few shots won't fix