How to Install your Timing Chain and Gear set on your SMALL BLOCK CHEVY and degree your Camshaft!
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- Опубликовано: 26 дек 2024
- In this video I demonstrate how you can install your timing set, and degree your camshaft perfectly, EVERY TIME!
The engine in this video is a 302 SBC but the process is the same for all small block Chevrolet’s.
#chevrolet #enginebuild #sbc
Best explanation of how to degree a cam I’ve seen so far. Thanks
Thanks for the comment Edward. AG
@@goldsgarage8236u was saying to put a little bearing behind the cam sprockt so it don't hit the block.But it's ok if u don't
Thanks for sharing your experience and I appreciate you not using foul language like some do.
For sure, thanks for commenting James. AG
A trick I like to use after you find TDC. I always take a flat scriber and scribe a make on the rear crankshaft flange. Just go off the oil pan rail and scribe a TDC mark on the crank flange. Then any time you need to find TDC again, its on the back of the crank.
That is a great trick Racer. i will be doing that from now on. Thanks AG
Alan, Cam and lifters can be cryogenically treated. Several companies perform this process. Reasonable price and turnaround. Bulletproof. Treatment goes much deeper than Nitride. Personally, never had a cam or lifter problem that had this treatment.
Thank you once again for sharing your knowledge.
And thank you Bill for sharing your knowledge. Another option to consider. AG
I ordered a Comp Extreme 274H and had it nitrided just for us. It took over 6 months to get and THEN COMP had a whole batch of nitrided 284H's so they did a BUNCH all at once. I like the cam, it survived a proper breakin but dam, 6 months. I'm happy it wasn't a customers motor that I was building. It went into a 509 casting and currently sits in a 1986 Z28 Camaro. I understand your complaint, it will take a while on that cam.
Yeah but if you get a Comp flat tappet cam and don't get it heat treated you're almost guaranteed to have a cam failure. It's like they plan it that way so people spring for the extra cost! Better off with a Howards flat tappet cam or a made in USA Summit flat tappet. Unless you just gotta have that Comp grind, then make sure to spring for the heat treatment.😎👍
Thanks for your comments guys. AG
Cool video very nice on how you can get the engine set at the tdc n set up the cam .
Thanks for watching and commenting Darrell. AG
Yes, sir that pretty much makes it simple. Regarding that camshaft nitrating process reminds me of when I was in the tool business (Mac dealer). One outfit I also dealt with was a tool supplier down in Largo Fl and one of my customers wanted an adjustable reamer. Well, that was definitely a special-order item and the salesman at this other outfit informed me that these particular tools are only manufactured once a year as there has to be enough orders to justify the expense. He told me it depended on when you placed your order, it could be right at manufacturing time or if it was after the manufacturing time well it could be longer for your product to arrive. Also, it made sense to have your customer pay up front as you did not want to place the order and then your customer decides he doesn't want the tool anymore (someone has to pay for the item). Also, when I ordered tools from the factory (Mac) and was told the item is backordered that meant the item will be backordered until the manufacturer tools up to make the item. I also had a service manager at a Chrysler dealership (this was in the mid-eighties) tell me that Chrysler would manufacture for you any discontinued part, but the minimum quantity would be 50,000 units. Puts a twist on items being available doesn't it.🥸👍👍👍👍
It sure does, thanks for sharing Billy.AG
thats the exact same way i was taught in the 70s great video thank you
Thanks for watching and commenting Mike.AG
I have a Mr. Gasket degree wheel also, owned it a looong time. Works just fine.
Thanks Dean, mine too, it is like an old friend.AG
A factory 400 chev is external bal mate, and has a counter weight in both rhe harmonic balancer and a counter weight added too the flywheel or flex plate.hence external bal.
86 and later blocks have an external bal flex plate and an internal bal neutral bal harmonic balancer.
All other small blocks are neutral balance, or internal balance.
Correct, thanks for commenting Brenton. AG
I have a Milodon gear drive for my SBC. I lucked out and found an excellent used one on Racing Junk. Milodon says they are good for any rpm where as the Pete Jackson style is good for up to 60000 rpm and make the whining noise. The Milodon only used one gear mounted on the spindle of the cast aluminum timing cover. A belt drive is supposed to be better for harmonics but I am not prepared to spend what they cost after getting drive unit.
Good find, thanks 4speed. AG
Thanks!
You are welcome Michael, thanks for watching.AG
Hi Alan. Another very informative video, man I wish I had your wisdom. I installed a summit 11-22 classic car cam and broke it in. I set the timing at 8 before an cannot get a clean idle without having to increase the idle and loosing the idle circuit. Is it a matter of advancing timing and adjusting carb until I get a clean idle? I keep adjusting and driving but it always seems to get worse as the drive goes on. Perhaps you can do a tuning video for dead heads like me.
Thanks John. Your engine needs a lot of advance at idle because the fuel air mixture is weak and the flame travels very slow, so it needs to have more time to combust.
With the vacuum advance disconnected, i start by setting the total advance to about 35 degrees all in. That means full advance which usually requires at least 3000RPM. With a modern distributor that should give you about 14-16 degrees at idle with the vacuum advance still disconnected, and at least 30 degrees at idle with it connected.
Give this a try and let me know how it works. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 Hi Alan. Thank you very much for giving me a base to start at, I'm working 12 hour days so will have to wait till Saturday to try this. Just to make sure I'm following your instructions correctly instead of setting at 8 before where I am now I'm setting to 35 before tdc. assuming that is correct do I set the idle before connecting the vacuum advance or after? I cannot wait to do this Alan.
@@John_1124 Dont worry too much about the initial timing at first...disconnect the vac and run the rpm up to 3000 and set timing at 36 then see if it idle and what your timing is. Then hook the vacuum back up. Many performance guy lock the dizzy so the timing doesnt change to get a clean idle.
@@cuzz63 tyvm for responding. The dizzy?
Will a off cam & crankshaft timing cause detonation/ pre ignition / spark knock pinging
Thanks for the question BTuck. Ignition spark timing can still be adjusted correctly, however if your cam is advanced because the timing gear is not aligned properly, your intake valve will close early and trap more compression, which may cause preignition and spark knocking. Your engine will run awful, if at all. Hope this helps. AG
@goldsgarage8236 thanks for the response... Well I done took off the timing cover just to check and see and I lined it up on tdc compression stroke #1 plug before I took harmonics balance off so everything can be still timed and the cam gear was at 12 & the crank gear was at 12 also am assuming that's right so I rotated the crank clock wise to see did the two dots matched up wen the crank at 12 in the cam at 6 in for sure they lined up perfectly so I rotated it back counter clock wise to put it back we're I had it at in that was tdc compression stroke #1 plug chain in gears looked good gonna install the cover back Tomorrow cause the cam in crank timing looks like it on point..... But I know the spark knock gonna be still there cause I haven't changed nothing with the gears.... So any help on getting rid of the knock will be grateful it only do it wen underload or going up a hill plus I retarded the timing on the distributor to 6 and it did help it some but it's still there wen I mash gas in force it to do it so it seems like retarding the timing did have sum affect on the knock but retarding the timing isz more like a bandaid for the problem am trying to fix in cure it plz any help sorry for long message
Very good.
Thanks for watching and commenting David.AG
Hi
I have a question
What HEI do you recommend?
Thanks William
i have been using a Bravex 65,000V 7,600 RPM distributor from Amazon. i have used many with good success. In a recent dyno test it performed as well as an MSD ignition. AG
I always wondered why only the # 1 piston cam lobes get degree`d? The other lobes could be off if the cam grinder, whether it is the machine or the guy running the machine,has some "slop" in it and they might not be in sync with lobe separation.I know that nothing can be done about it except try a different cam shaft but you are going on faith that if # 1 is good the other one`s are too.
Thanks Ted. It is just convention that the IVCL is provided in the cam specifications for #1 cylinder. You could degree off any lobe, you would just have to do some math to find IVCL for that cylinder. Cams are ground on CNC numerical controlled process and are very accurate. I think it is reasonable to trust them.AG
@@goldsgarage8236 I ran CNC machines for 35 years and most of the time they are very accurate but mistakes happen from time to time either if it is old with some ball screw back lash or if the operator was a bit sleepy .I was just curious that when a cam shaft fails and turns one lobe into a circle in short order could a badly machined cam be the cause, not a bad break in process.
Put it on the key, put it on the dowel, put it on the marks, good enough!...
Thanks for commenting Terry. AG