350 SBC Chevy goes to the Dyno and we get a BIG SURPRISE! Big block TQ and HP!!
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- This is the final video of Will Casey’s 350 small block Chevy Build for his 1981 C3 Corvette.
The camshaft is a Howard’s 110951-08
#chevrolet #chevy #sbc #350
Excellent content. Just excellent!
Thanks for the nice comment Todd. AG
There’s a lot of guys out there that keyboard Cowboys to think they know everything and don’t know their butt from a hole in the ground. They just can’t believe the 327 solid lifter Cam made 365hp with a small journal and a two bolt mains
Rated at 375hp with FI! A close friend has a 55 Chevy that runs 10.teens with a 355 2 bolt bowtie block. It runs a Hilborn injector on Meth, and a boring Powerglide!
Thanks Red Dog, remember, there were no 4 bolt mains until 1969. AG
How much is the loss to the wheel. I have seen as much as 100 down from engine dyno
@@alleyoop1234I've never seen a 2 bolt bowtie block, are you sure?
@@jeffreydurham5342 Yes, I built the engine initially. It was the very first rendition of the Bowtie block. My guess is they expected them to be converted to splayed caps..
im a mopar guy but i love them all years ago my brother had a smashed 70 SS LT1 350 stuck the motor in three cars it go and never stop
Thanks Rebecca. AG
That's a sweet running 350. Mild flat tappet cam and good heads really wake up an old smog motor! And you can do it all with a 2 bolt main block. some say the 2 bolt blocks are actually stronger than the 4 bolt blocks because the extra 2 bolt holes in a 4 bolt weakens the webbing.
@davidholcomb9961 the 2-bolt vs 4-bolt thing has been around for a while, and what most people get wrong is that it only applies to 400 small blocks. GM never intended the 400 to be a high-performance engine, they designed it for torque. the 70-72 version was only available with a 2bbl carb. the 1970-72 400 SBC were all 4bolt blocks, but a thin wall casting to save weight, and they can crack in the main webs on the center 3 bearing saddles. the 73 and later 400s were all 2 bolt blocks and had slightly thicker castings, because of that hey hold up better when you hop them up. 2-bolt mains are fine until you reach around 450hp with factory bolts. after that you really need to look at studs or 4 bolt main caps. the hot tip for 400 2 bolt blocks is to replace the center main caps with splayed 4 bolt caps. all the benefits of the 4bolt cap, and the thicker casting, plus splayed caps help reinforce the block by tying sides of the block into the structure.
@@shadvan9494 Thanks for the update. I always appreciate learning more. I feel Chevy missed the boat on the power potential of the 400. Big block torque in a small package with some good heads. Double humps weren't big enough although there's room to open them up.
Thanks Guys. I have a 406 for sale with 4 bolt splayed caps and ARP studs if anyone is looking for one. It made over 500 HP on the dyno. There are videos about it on my channel. AG
@@shadvan9494made in the neighborhood of 1200hp with a 4 bolt 400 block... Never saw one crack or break the mains. Never saw a two bolt engine separate a main cap except in a mud truck that dead hooked. Big nitrous hit.
@@goldsgarage8236
Is it still for sale?
Congratulations Will, I'm sure you enjoy your 81 Corvette. The L-81 block especially since it's never been opened since new. Will enjoy your Corvette.
Are you seeing this Will? AG
Good Job Guys! Wish I was in Canada 😊
Thanks John.AG
I can't believe some of the comments. This is a super nice will live forever strong small block. Some 383's on internet don't make 425 ftlb due to wrong lsa cam. 108 is perfect for a 350. That vette will haul the mail with that 350. Especially 4spd and 3:55's. That's a perfect street vette that you can drive anywhere. It will be very dependable.
Nice job!
Very nice comments and all good points Leland, thanks for contributing. AG
Ok if you can not make 425 ftlb out of a 383 it is not due to a shitty cam it is piss poor heads compounded by a crap cam and very poor fuel management. On ok heads a well picked cam and decided pistons, I made 500hp,475ftlb with a 650 holley.
Great video & GREAT results!! Back in the early 80's I worked in a couple Corvette shops starting as the clean up kid. I recall those '81 Vettes having all aluminum housing Dana 36's. With 400HP the rear will be screaming for mercy! It won't last 1 week🤣
Thanks Alleyoop. I think it depends on hoe Will drives it. AG
670 Street Avengers are notoriously lean out of the box.
Great build, good selection in parts. Nice job Mr Gold
Thanks you very much User. AG
No substitute for doing the math before diving into parts.
You could have softened the torque by reducing the overlap 10-degrees and delaying the intake closing 20-degrees (increase the duration 10-degrees), the trouble with doing this on a budget build is that you'd want a rev limiter to stay safe with the short-block.
Those C3 Vettes have such a great stingray look!! I actually prefer the painted bumpers on that body-style.
Please complete the story with a running video of the vette!!!
Love the build, love the videos!
Great comments Shane, thanks for contributing.AG
I love Will's philosophy. EVERYONE keeps telling me to do a 383 on my 350 project engine since I am buying a whole new rotating assembly anyway. Yes I know I am leaving alot of power & torque on the table BUT its my 1st engine and I don't want to deal with all the block clearancing etc.....maybe on the next build.
We didn't replace the rotating assembly, we used the original crankshaft. AG
I work part time for a well known engine builder in Mooresville, North Carolina and this is typically what I see from a 355 with around 10:1 with ported vortec heads and a similar cam to what you guys are running here.
Thanks for sharing your experience Brad. good confirmation for us. AG
My small block 383 made 558.9 at 6100 amd 510 tq at 4100
We litterally took these parts off the shelf from over the year builds and put it together. Dontbknow what cam was or is but its in a bog truck and runs strong
Good job Rick, that would be a nice engine. AG
I really appreciate you did it with the original block and didn’t machine the whole thing! The right pistons, better heads, intake and carb. He could still put short valve covers on with roller tip rockers and loose nothing. Fun corvette without unnessacary cost. I’ve never been able to spell nessicary!
Thanks Gary, I forgot to mention that it does have GM Performance aluminum roller rockers. The heads are based on Vortec style so the center bolt short valve covers will work. The ones on it were my shop valve covers. Will is looking at his options. AG
THAT WILL BE A KILLER STREET MOTOR
Thanks for your endorsement Hank. AG
In 1963 in LA in Auto tech school we had a stock 283 Corvette engine with fi.
It would go 6000 easy. In fact the instructor a old Pontiac rep was a great dude . Taught us all about the Mechanical fi that was on them. Strange that most street engines that last , today is not run at any higher rpm.
Great experience Clinton. Very few people understood mechanical FI so you were fortunate. What a challenge to make FI work without any electronics or computer controls. Remember, the 283 had a 3" stroke, compared to a 3.48 for a 3.50 and 3.75 for a 383. At 6000RPM, the piston speed of a 283 is the same as a 350 at 5150RPM. The limitation is really the valve train. Pretty sure those Fi 283's has solid valve lifters, you would know?
very nice build. I wonder if it would continue to make HP up to 6200 rpm? Nice Streetable combo that he will have a lot of fun with! Great Job Mr. Gold!!
Thanks Scott, I guess we will never know, but we were pretty happy with the results we got. AG
Can’t wait for more of your vids sir!!! Thank you!!!
Thanks you Kbros. More to come. AG
Will Casey could be David Gilmore's twin brother!
Nice solid running Chevy too!
Thanks Logan, i had to google it. Check it out Will. AG
What about Lloyd Bridges twin Brother 🤔 👀 😕 😳
Goodness. Many of my circle track engines were 2 bolt. Our concern was core shift and general signs of a life of maintained or abused. Proper machining, parts selection and assembly is key (of course,). Full disclosure for circle track our 2 bolt 350'swere spinning 6500rpm 3/8 mile track and in season rules package about 450hp. Our open shows we ran 410 cubes at about 650hp.and around 7200rpm (I used stock early 70's 2 bolt 400 gm blocks. Arp main studs/thoughtful prep, good tune, no detonation.(detonation will kill any brand part)
Thanks Patrick. Your experience is good affirmation. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 your most welcome. I refer many new enthusiasts to your site. Then I quiz them!! If they took the time to watch, listen and watch your channel over, THEN I will take my time with them, go hands on with rhe project and share all wisdom they hopefully absorb, apply and in turn share/pass it down and pay it forward. Keep up the videos. Keep the direct simple straightforward approach, please. It truly helps many. Also goes hand to glove in regards to my own efforts to share. Health and Wellness for you and yours.
This combo has great HP AND torque! This build impressed me big time. That is impressive output for the a cam with specs that mild. This engine is going to be a lot of fun with the 4 speed!
Thanks for your comment Robert. AG
Crane makes a hyd cam similar to gm 350hp cam. Crane put it on a 108 LSA. I've used it many times. It's easy on valvetrain/seats and makes great torque and hp ( for a build under 400hp and not spending a bunch of money). Sorry I don't recall part #
I am learning a lot from these videos, thanks 😊
Thanks Scott. AG
Love the cam selection...Very similar duration to the 3863151 350 hp 327 cam which I have used in the past, but with 6 degrees less LSA. I've often wondered how the 350hp cam would run with a shorter LSA, this is a pretty good example. Also noticed the characteristic dip in the middle of the torque curve was not so pronounced with this cam. Third, in general good-flowing heads don't need to be crutched with huge duration camshafts. Last, compression is where the horsepower is.
Thanks for your comments Richard. AG
Congratulations another great build 🎉
Thanks you STP. AG
Tin snip the timing marker into a point and forget the numbers.
This is a very good idea! I will probably do that before installing . Thx!
That would have bothered me too. There are plenty of adjustable timing pointers out there. Or modify the one that’s on the engine to read correctly.
Correct Glen, I started my Nascar Engine Building doing this.
I put the balancer on a rotary table in the vertical mill. I ground a carbide tool that would cut both directions, vertically.
I would stagger the marks from 34 degrees to 42 degrees, BTDC, and cut a .020" verticle slot every 2 degrees.
You would then tin snip the pointer as you mentioned, and finish it smooth a die grinder and sandpaper roll.
Great job, everyone!👍🏻
Thanks Leo. AG
Nice build AG.
Thanks for sharing the Dyno time.
Very nice engine.
Great job on the Horsepower.
Have a good week. 👍
Thanks for your comments as always Ed. You have a good week also. AG
36° total advance I take it that was so much base timing plus mechanical plus vacuum.
Thanks Paul. Vacuum is not in play under load and not connected on the dyno. Total is initial plus mechanical by 3000RPM. By the way, you do need vacuum advance at idle. AG
Outstanding! Another great video. Thanks for all of your detailed commentary. I'm very much looking forward to Allen doing the build on my GTO's 389. Great stuff!
Thanks Todd, looking forward to working with you. AG
This has been a great video series! All of your explanations have been in a language easily understood! Thank you so much for that!
Nice compliment, thanks' so much. That is exactly what we are trying to accomplish. AG
dyno question. saw that the a/f seems very high. an explanation. I would have guessed maybe 12.8 numbers. nice build. it will probably be a nice street engine
Good question Mk. I have asked Darrel to respond to you. Watch for it. AG
Hey thanks for the question, I don’t use A/F ratio to tune on the dyno, I’ve found over the years that it doesn’t always agree with the performance of the engine. I tune using the bsfc brake specific fuel consumption, fuel flow and reading the spark plugs, the A/F ratio is calculated from the air and fuel turbines and doesn’t always agree with horsepower and torque output, when I got the dyno 30+ years ago, I had a Champion spark plug engineer teach me how to read plugs properly and it hasn’t let me down yet. With that and some math I can be certain that the mixture is proper. Thank you for the question. 👍🏻
Thanks Darrell. AG
Wow, that's great. Makes me feel good about my own C3 Corvette build. That cam is very similar to the one I selected, so maybe my 383 stroker build will be plenty powerful enough as planned.
Thanks 100, that enough for the street for sure. AG
Good video! Could put different hood on with more clearance for a taller intake
Thanks Elaine, I am sure that would help. AG
This Howards cam came up in my search for a replacement cam for my 1973 L-82 build. The L-82 will remain mostly stock spec however one of the smog heads is cracked so both will be replaced by 64cc aluminum heads. I was not intending to change the cam and I know a lot of the old Chevy guys really like the L-82 cam profile but at 114 LSA it is a profile that was good in its day but that was 50 years ago. With David Vizard research and dyno proof to back it up, I felt a cam change was due. The car is a survivor, low mileage and excellent condition but with the cracked head and the new technology on cams, it seemed the least I could do was make a few subtle but effective upgrades. Your 1981 Corvette 350 makes more power than my 1973 350 but this build is really close so I wont be too far off. As far as 2 bolt mains goes, I built a LOT of 289 Fords with 2 bolt mains and made 375HP all day with 2 bolt mains. 2 bolt SBC Chevys with more displacement should make 400HP and run for decades with no problem. American V8's are stout engines and a lot of them over 50 years old are still running to prove it.
Great comments and information from your experience, thanks for contributing.AG
2300 rpm spread from peak torque to peak HP points to a great combination!
What size headers were used on the dyno?
If they were larger than 1 3/4”, a set of 1 5/8” would have probably made more torque from bottom to midrange and not lost any hp up top.
Wonder if it would have peaked at 6200 rpm range?
I would have put a softer yellow spring in the secondary, then jet the secondary richer. Having the primary so rich will hurt part throttle cruise efficiency.
Thanks Pockets. 1-5/8" might have worked better but we had to use the bigger headers to cover the D shaped exhaust ports. These heads require a special header to match the ports that we didn't have. AG
Two things that I’ve noticed, on this dyno.
Frist, the angle of the motor seems too steep which makes the carburetor not level, which, in turn, makes the front artificially richer and the back leaner.
Second, the headers seem to be quite large for a street engine.
Thanks for your observations Clark. AG
Good Job!
Thanks Allan. AG
Choose the jets from experience. Like watching your videos. Will be nice to watch you do some Mopar builds. And Fords 👍
Thanks Anti, we will get to a Ford and Mopar build later this year. AG.
Those machine shops are just trying to rip off unknowing customers. Sad. There's nothing wrong with 2 bolt blocks. We used them for years in oval cars and I don't remember ever breaking one.
Good point 39, thanks for your input. AG
Over 400lb ft with a 4 speed is going to be fun!
Thanks Jeffrey. AG.
Love the tip of the day-great result
Thanks Alex, sorry you missed it. AG
Nice Build and very good info. I circle tracked useing 4 bolt blocks but for the steet i don't see anything wrong with useing a 2 bolt block. As long as we don't get to radical the mains shouldn't walk around. thanks for the video again........😎😎
All good points, thanks Michael. AG
Great video! Great engine build.
Fueling: bsfc on average compared to wideband AFR.
Could you talk a little about that?
Looked on the video like it was a little lean at high rpm looking at AFR (14.5-15).
What are your thoughts?
Great question Peter. I was just thinking of making a video about this. Darrell tuned Will's engine on the dyno based on BSFC. (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption) The measurement is pounds of fuel/horsepower hour. BSFC is the best measurement of the efficiency of an engine.
If you saw my mention of Waddell Wilsons book, I just re read it. Waddell used BSFC exclusively to tune on the Dyno. His best average was about .450lb./HP hour. That is similar to what Darrell achieved on Wills 350. I understand that NASCAR engines are now less than .4lb/HP hour, but that is another world.
Brian Hambly, if you are seeing this, can you comment. AG
Good work! Hard to beat a good 350 sbc
Thanks Ben. AG
Sir, my Engine Builder career began in Nascar, well before the 4 bolt mains blocks.
After magnafluxing the main caps, I would mill the tops flat, not completely, approximately 80 percent. A small eyebrow would remain around each stud hole, that was perfectly acceptable.
I would then use 4340 flat steel stock to make straps to go from main stud to main stud, across each cap.
After the introduction of the 4 bold CENTER mains, we would still strap the front and rear. Then came billet caps, splayed bolt outers, and eventually solid dowl pins between the center vertical studs and the outer splayed bolts to prevent the caps from walking.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and high level NASCAR experience. That was a very effective way to reinforce the main bearing caps. One of the other advantages would be to make your main studs longer, thus distributing the stress over a longer distance. Thanks for sharing. PS, I still have a book written by Waddell Wilson that I read many years ago. Everything in it still applies today. AG
Hey Boosted. i mentioned you in a later video, but I apologize, i couldn't remember your handle at the time. You inspired me to read Waddell's book again. AG
Nice combo. Oil pressure is NOT up to snuff, The old rule of 10# for every 1000 rpm. I'd be putting a washer behind the spring in the pump to get a few pounds of pressure. 48.3#'s at 5740 rpm.
Thanks for your comment Steve. AG
See now this video has me wondering if I should be so worried about running the Comp 274H I just got for my engine repair after the last cam failed..
Don't worry about it as long as you break it in properly. AG
I was barely 30 seconds in and first thing i noticed was the audio improvement. 👍
Thanks Randy, glad you notices. We are trying to get better. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 What you do, how you go about it and how you explain things is great. The audio improvement was all I needed as my hearing needs some..... "Boost"
I like an adjustable timing pointer - shave the backside to suit a 2 piece cover as needed and good to go. That 400+ you got on the dyno - nice/fun to drive street motor, and like where the torque curve sits. If I had to split hairs... maybe a 109 instead of 108 lsa to stay low 60's on overlap? But zero to be unhappy with on this one, I think.
Thanks for your comments Flinch. AG
When you use the power speed calculator I believe you have to lower the horsepower to the rear wheel power to get an accurate quarter mile elapsed time and speed , the mid eleven calculated time at 3,600 lbs. Sounds like it's to quick for the horsepower at the flywheel the motor made . I may be wrong but to get accurate e.t. and speed you need to know rear wheel horse power and weight . P.s. nice motor combo guys.
Good point, thanks for the input Asbel. AG
Awesome RUclips channel!
Very nice compliment User. More to come. AG
You can make more power with an old sbc than you want to use in a frame off restoration. You might make more power with an ls but they just don't sound, feel out smell the same, they sound good but you just don't get the feel like your a kid again you just feel like something's off when driving an old car with ls in it
Yes I agree MVP. All good points. AG
Nice should be a good strong street runner for trips to get ice cream. (-:
IIRC these had a claimed 190 hp stock and you've more than doubled that.
I would expect low 13 sec quarters out of it, it will have a 2.7 something rear gear stock, so it will be more of a highway star than a strip weapon, still enough torque to be a lot of fun.
Congratulations on a good build.
Thanks UncleVom, Will is also installing a 3.55 rear gear and his Vette is a 4 speed. AG
i figured about that on the HP pretty much the same build i'm doing with a ZZ4 and AFR heads full roller setup 10-1 with roller rockers and girdle a bigger cam and an Eagle bottom end 2000 rpm stall and a 700R4 i'm seeing the setup i'm doing getting around 430+HP on the dyno and all dyno's are different some tight and some loose. It's going in an 1989 chevy OBS C2500 pickup w/ 3.73 gears, should be a real tire fryer. Thanks for the video and the customer looks real happy and that little Vette should rip. Thank GOD it wasn't another LS swap. LS swaps and Cummins 12 Valve swaps are getting old, every clown on YT is doing one.
Thanks Mark Looks like you got the gear ratios prefect for a street application too. AG
Just be careful with that much compression on a heavier truck like that. You might have to give up some timing to keep it out of detonation.
Nothing wrong with first gen SBC engines with 2 bolt main blocks. 4 bolt gets more important for racing and high HP and RPM.
There is nothing wrong with the maligned 305 and 307 engines. Cam, compression and better head flow wakes them right up. A stroker 3.75" crank gives a bit more torque if wanted for minimal.extra cost.
Good build for a street restoration car.
Thanks for your comments Dale. AG
And How much nitrous were going too add to do it? 😁 These guys are unreal, you got no idea mate.
No way you're going to go 11.5's @120 mph @3600 lbs corvette .with full exhaust with that 350 small block mate.
Maybe mid too high 12 for the 1/4 mile.
Dreamers
I was just reading the numbers from the Moroso slide rule. AG
Remove 200 lbs.
1. Composite rear spring
2. Light weight rims
3. Aluminum heads and intake and water 💧 pump and pulleys
4. Electric radiator fans
5. Remove the headlight assembly (race)
6. Find a driver under 100 lbs.
7. Light weight front suspension
8. Next try for 3200 lbs. Much faster car
I bet you put in a lighter spring on that vac secondary it will make more power. But, it might hesitate in the car. Thats prob with holley vac secondary.
Thanks for the suggestion Terry. AG
11 seconds in a 1/4 mile? I was thinking mid to high twelves with 405 gross hp. I hope he takes his vette to the track, I am very curious. Thanks for the great videos.
Good point Scott. I was just reading off the Moroso slide rule. I think that is a theoretical calculation based on perfect traction, no slippage etc. It can be done, competitive stock and SS guys do it. AG
So is the carburetor to BIG? Would it be better to have smaller carb that uses more of the secondary’s?
Good point, and yes it would. Vacuum secondary carburetors work well on the street but not as much on the dyno. A smaller carb will also have better throttle response on the street. AG
Hell ya !!
Thats a awful long way to have a motor built lol. Probably 10 machine shops and engine builders around green bay, fox valley areas within 75 miles!
My small blocks always liked 36
Thanks Ryan. AG
That should be a nice peppy engine for the Corvette. Not overbuilt just for bragging rights.
Thanks Larry. AG
An almost zero rust corvette impossible 😂
Is this 305 wheel which is what stock ls1 s make so not bad but this guy didn’t want much so old school was ok basically 224-230 on a 108 x heads 10-1 comp should do 300 wheel
Full roller rockers with 1.6 ratio would be a nice upgrade. I think the lift is to low.
Thanks Joe, I forgot to mention it does have GM Performance roller rockers, 1.6 on the intake and 1.5 on the exhaust. Yes I am sure more lift would help but we were pretty happy with the power. . AG
Not sure if it was mentioned but what was the no load idle manifold vacuum on that combo? Keep rolling.......
Good question Junkyard. In a previous video I started this engine up on my test stand with a vacuum gauge connected. It was in the green zone, I think about 18' of mercury. We demonstrated it in the video. AG
Thats great vacuum for a 350" street engine with a camshaft in that duration range with 108lsa. Should work fine with power brakes and A/C with the manual transmission, excellent series and results. Best Regards@@goldsgarage8236
Thanks Junkyard and Merry Christmas to you. AG
I've got two questions. Why didn't you run to 6200 rpm? Peak horsepower was at 5900, which was the end of the RPM range for the pull.
Second question is what do you mean by over rev? An RPM where the bottom end won't stay together? Or do you mean in RPM where the valves start to float and hit the pistons? And in that case what would the suggested maximum RPM be?
Good questions Andy. The heads had bee hive valve springs, good for well past 6500RPM. The rotating assembly is good for that also, if i had known there would be so much interest, i could have gone higher, however we had met our HP target and were already at the upper end of the operating range for the cam. Also we wanted to get Will on the road, he had a long drive home. I don't think it would have made much more power if we revved it higher. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 Thank you for the response. I wish you would have gone 200 rpm higher, I guessed 410 HP.😂
I love watching your videos. I'm learning a lot that I hope to apply to my planned engine, a high reving 372 SBC.
That volumetric efficiency listed on the Dyno display is incorrect ... If you figure by hand at like 5400 rpm where flow is listed at just over 500 cfm a 350 engine is going to move like 542 cfm and so your measured flow is less then theoretical maximum and therefore your VE is under 100 percent... 91.8% not over like is listed
All these small details/settings make me wonder how much HP & TQ numbers would vary from dyno to dyno with the exact same engine 🤔 I saw a video of a Pontiac 301 making 400 HP but the dyno looked home built 😂
@@grabasandwich even the big boys wonder that ...I remember a test years back where the NASCAR engine builders handed a engine around from shop to shop to see what each one got with the same engine and it was a bit surprising .... If I remember correctly the Dyno pack controller came from that to increase consistency from Dyno to Dyno
I didn't expect it yo make much hp. because lobe center on cam is too close AG. It will be lucky to make 13's in the 1/4 mile. It isn't a race engine or car... I should get poor fuel economy AG...
Slightly more than 1 hp per cubic inch. (1.16) Not Bad.
Thanks N-Lee. And did you notice the torque was at 3,600RPM. Just where you want it on the street. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 Yeah Torque too! Niiice ! Your Welcome
its so lean from AFR gauge. You have to read the plugs to know whats going on. Also you don't know what peak power is. You need to go past peak power on the Dyno that's why its called peak power it peaks then goes back down. You have to retune the engine in the car. The Dyno gets you close but weight, heat, gear ratios, air cleaner, etc. changes everything. trying to help not bashing you guys.
Thanks for your kind words. If you watched the whole video, Darrell tuned it based on BSFC, (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption) and spark plug readings. At 5900RPM we already made more power than we were looking for and were above the RPM range of the cam. There may have been a few HP left on the table but we decided to call it a day and get Will on the road home. AG.
You really needed to put a screw in the slot of the Vac. secondary to force it to go WOT on the secondary. The A-B on the carb bothers me. Truth being told he will never drive it that hard on the street, so I am sure it is plenty safe. I just wonder why you do not record EGTs when testing?
Thanks Racer, do you mean Exhaust Gas Temperatures? We do scan the headers with a Laser infrared thermometer. Let me know if that is what you mean. AG
No Superflow has Thermocouples to read the EGT. but you needs holes in the header about 1 inch away from the flange.As far as the Vac Sec. if you put a screw in the slot and force it to go WOT, make a pull and the balance your A-B. You will have to load the dyno slowly because you do not have a pump shot in the rear, now balance your A-B fuel. Then start changing sec. springs until the carb goes WOT. @@goldsgarage8236
What was the rpm of the hp and tq?
The numbers are in the video, but as I recall 406HP and 427 torque. AG
Stupid me plates wide open no vacuum. When the engine is installed cruising at 3000 RPM vacuum ported or manifold it may have to much advance.
Vacuum is high only when there is no load and that is when the engine needs lots of advance. AG
That is true but you might have light throttle ping. Appreciate your info and great work.
😊
Thanks for the happy face!
By the time the power gets to the payment he'll be lucky to have 330 HP. Probably the way the cars were rated for that year with all the accessories running and the power going through the transmission he's probably real close to 350 HP.😎👍
Make sure to tell him if he craves a bit more power that a roller cam closer to the max flow lift will make it even funner to drive.😁
Possibly, but at what cost? The step up to a roller cam, lifters and the required new pushrods and valve springs is a big hit, especially in $CDN.
@@daledavies2334
I didn't say it would be free. The potential is there though if he wants to buy it.😎👍
@@itseithergonnaworkoritaint7852 Potential yes. I do not know where you are located, but in Canada we start by adding 30% or more just for exchange. A flat tappet cam and lifters is going to be around $500CDN. Multiply by 3 to 4 to install a roller cam. Then consider how much extra potential you may gain. That gain in torque and thus HP is likely not as much as the sales pitches decree.
@@daledavies2334
Maybe he gets a deal on used....? Sorry it's so crappy to buy engine parts up there, don't kiII the messenger.😯
One degree of timing? 😐 Gave yourself away huh? 🙄
Horsepower is still on the way up at 5900. Why not rev it a little more, say to 6500 maybe to see where she actually tops out?
For the parts involved, that's a really strong 350.
Thanks Patrick. Good point, I think we were just happy to get the 400HP, we had made enough pulls and wanted to get Will on the road. I was surprised it was still making power at 5900. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 that's one great 350!
glad he didn't go LS!!
Me too! AG
Hey, 405 is better than 350 and drive better. I really can’t see 11’s thou
Thanks Kim. You are correct about the 11's. That is what the slide rule gave me based on 400HP and 3,600 pounds but I think it must be theoretical and assumes that 100% of the power is applied to the entire 1/4 mile track with no spinning or slipping. AG
Actually good drag racers with the right drive train, torque converter, transmission, gearing, suspension, tires etc could do just that. AG
Contacted a cam builder in SC and had him spec out a cam for a ZZ4 i'm building and asked him about the 108 LSA and his exact words were "The 108 stuff is nonsense" I also talked to Herbert Cams and they said "SAY WHAT" so I'm going with a 220/225 .530 111+3 cam. Thought about going with a Howards CL188005-09 Intake Valve Lift: .525"
Exhaust Valve Lift: .530"
Advertised Intake Duration: 280�
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 288�
Intake Duration @ .050": 227�
Exhaust Duration @ .050": 235�
Lobe Separation: 109�
Intake Centerline: 103�
it's hard to decide cams are like black magic.
Go with your 2nd choice if u want the motor to pull earlier in the Rev range I tested lots of different lobe separations and mr vizard is absolutely correct the cam mfg just wants to sell u what they have on the shelf 112 to 114 lobe separations will only kill bottom end torque
I know I would choose the Howards for sure! Dual pattern, nice cam!
@@mikasantos3774tighter LSA actually cost some low speed torque bit really gains midrange. The big low-speed torque killer is a dual pattern grind though. The 8-10* longer exhaust duration opens the exhaust valve sooner, blowing off cylinder pressure earlier at low rpm. I am swapping my 383 from a 218/228 @ 0.050 on a 108 to a 219/219 @ 0.050 on a 112 because the first cam is terrible under 2,000 rpm. 61.5* of overlap @ 0.006" is too much for my combination and causes it to buck and surge under load under 1,500 rpm. Absolutely drinks fuel until it gets up to 2,000-2,500 rpm as well.
I think you’re confused about camshaft selection. It’s not black magic. The engine in this video had a 108…. The results speak for themselves. You can hear the fairly decent idle. It made good power! I’m always a fan of tighter cams. But do your own research. Choosing a camshaft for the application becomes easier the more you know. These guys did their homework.
Lobe separation and especially how much more exhaust duration than intake depends on the cylinder head flow. Low exh/intalw flow ratio, and you need more exhaust duration.
Exhaust flows 75% of the intake, a single pattern cam will be best.
You guys better start looking into carburetion books! That engine is way too lean for wide open throttle pulls! Why didn’t you jet the rear of the carb? Yes it’s vacuum secondary, but there should be jets there! Secondary side isn’t flowing much fuel! Just because someone has a dyno for many years, doesn’t mean he knows how to tune engines or carbs! Also so you aren’t wasting so much time, leave the distributor snug, keep engine running, use timing light, move distributor! Then snug it up! You should be pulling valve covers to be at least looking at the valvetrain! If you have a circle track or race engine builder in the area, you may ask if you can see a dyno cession! You definitely don’t want the engine to hurt itself in the car!