Hello, I hope i got answer soon because i need.. I have Megane 2 1.5dci 2004 year and i have increased fuel consumption over 2l/100km, before this my car consume about 6l/100km, now about 8-8.5l/100km... then i connect car with my some cheap diagnostic tool, and i found error code DF039 which mean sensor intake air temperature.. so what i need to do to fix my problem and reduce fuel consumption? btw i looked my car, and i found MAP sensor, do i have MAF too? or i can have only 1 sensor MAF or MAP
I really can't help you any further than what I did in this video. Since your car is diesel you need to have it checked even better than my petrol one. Try to do the following. make sure your oil is brand new and clean. I recommend Liqui Moly 5W30 or 0W30 of any variation from Leichtlauf HT, Synthoil HT or Molygen. All are very good and perfect for diesel engines Then make sure you have a clean engine air filter. Replace it every 10.000km. With the oil it's the same km. Clean that sensor if you can and also the intake manifold by using a product designed for it. I have videos regarding that also. Put in the most expensive and good diesel fuel and add to a full tank a product from Liqui Moly that is said to clean the engine and the valves and the DPF partivcle filter and drive your car revved up in the 4th gear on a highway road, after the engine is all warmed up, for at least 30 minutes to 1 hour. In the gears 1, 2 and 3 change the gears at 3000 rpms, then in 4th keep it near the red line and drive it like that vfor 1 hour straight. You'll clean the engine and you'll see it'll perform way better. the fuel makes a lot of difference and the drive style. On your diesel don't drive it under revved. Take it up to 3000rpms, after the engine is warmed up, in any gear change.
This is not a MAF it is a MAP - that is the air pressure sensor that measures the air pressure from the turbo. The MAF or mass air flowmeter is located just after the airfilter.
@@m3rovingian hi i have the same car and when i accelerate from a stop my car stuttering on 2k rpm - 4k rpm and when i go uphill it needs to floor it to go and i cannot go more than 50kmh uphill but when i go straight it can go up to 150kmh Do you know what's going on with my Clio?
@@leotech99 I really can't tell. Make sure you go to a good mechanic and see what's up. But before you do that try to change yourself the engine air filter, clean the throttle and the MAP sensor you see right here, and if the issue remains the same do to the mechanic. Also make sure you replace the oil every maximum 10.000km.
There was no error on dashboard. That check engine light is on all the time when I put in the ignition key to show the fuel pump is engaged and when I turn on the engine, the light turns off. It's how the Clio 3 cars are made and most probably all Renault cars from the early 2010's.
Nu neaparat, insa avea momente masina cand dadea in nas, mi ales la rece. DUpa ce am curatat senzorul si clapeta de admisie a mers de fiecare data perfect, rotund si fara gatuieli. Acum imi cam joaca relantiul datorita faptului ca intre timp am trecut pe GPL si fiindca aerul conditionat ia mult din putearea motorului. Insa dupa ce rulez putin turometrul e ceas. Anul asta cred ca am curatat senzorul de 3 ori :) La fel si clapeta.
din cauza uleiului din el poate da eroarea de valoare maxima? pe cel care a fost la masina l-am rupt de linga inelul de etansare, am comandat nou de pe aliexpres, azi mi-a aparut eroare, l-am spalat cu solutie si l-am pus la loc, voi vedea in viitor daca va mai aparea eroare.
Ai grija ce cumperi de pe aliexpress, sa nu fie vreo chinezarie care sa nu mearga. De asemenea trebuie sa ai grija canmd il scoti cu foarte mare grina sa pui presiune cu ambele maini sub el si asa incet il scoti de acolo. Cand il pui la loc sa te asiguri ca este introdus pana la capat cu ambele oringuri in interior. MI-a spus unu ca trebuie doar oringul verde in interior si cel negru lasat afara. Am facut asa si dupa cteva zile cand am inspectat din nou motorul si am pus mana pe senzor, mai sa-mi cada printre degete. ma mir cum de nu a iesit din locas. Deci sa-l pui pana jos. E foarte important sa fie curat. operatiunea asta poti sa o faci de 2 ori pe an, insa cu grija sa nu-l mai rupi. E nasol mai ales daca pica in motor capatul rupt.
@@m3rovingian , la mine e cu un singur inel de cauciuc, megane 2 1.5 dci, bucata cea care s-a rupt am extras-o cu un fir metalic, am facut un cirlig si am tras
@@NicolaeGoncerenco Ma bucur sa stiu asta. Ai avut mare noroc. Ce pot sa-ti spun e sa te asiguri ca schimbi filtrul de aer la 10.000 km, sa-i cureti si clapeta de admisie anual si senzorul asta. Asa va merge perfect. Eu nu am avut pana acum nicio problema, ina afara inconvenientului cu rampa de injectoare GPL necalibrata...Acum masina merge la fel ca pe benzina, impecabil.
When you installed back sensor it is inserted wrong. Sensor must be in hole in inlet manifold between 2x orings. Green must be in manifold and air tight black must stick out to prevent dirt.
@@m3rovingian The sensor is designed to hold between this 2 gaskets. After few years gasket loose stiffness and sensor is falling all the way in in the manifold. Btw there is a big problem with vacuum leak in that part and sensor is designed in mass production for many other vehicles. System of sealing that part is not designed as it should. Many services seal the hole or install 4mm gasket to map to seal better. Other posibility is to connect tyre valve and install sensor on vacuum pipe. When you seal the sensor you will see the mass improvement in working of the engine.
@@mr.t2585 I will go and try it now and see if it will seal correctly. Maybe that was causing my engine to misfire? Jesus Christ! Because I pressed it all the way in?
@@mr.t2585 Thank you so much for the heads up. I corrected the position of the MAP sensor. But it must be a miracle I didn't had any problems. With it like that the car pulled with 0.4 hp more than from factory stock on the Dyno before the first Stage 1 try. Here is the video with the correct possition after you told me to: ruclips.net/video/HGRIPOk93jw/видео.html Thank you once again!
@@m3rovingian Great. Problems can be with wrong o2 sensor readings, poor idle, hesistations.. the sensor itself will fall again in hole, you need to insert something 4mm thick between black gasket and sensor itself to hold it in this position. Bad design by renault as i said before. It could be worse if this engine have the MAF. This readings will then affect to much worse parameters.
Can someone Help.I have Renault clio 1.6 gt line.the problom that i have is when i want to accelerate,the car goes into limp mode and the car start shaking pretty badly. code p0300 ramdom multiple cylinder misfire detected.
@@m3rovingian Too late for me 😞 Do you have or know of a video on openning the air collector? I have removed 4 screws with star-shaped heads, but I still cannot open it 😞
@@m3rovingian I think the proper name is "inlet". I am not an expert, but I meant lifting the inlet manifold, and fortunatelly got a link from a friend. Unfortunatelly, there are more screws to remove and I will need to re-visit the subject later.
Eheii....ce "gently" imi venea mie sa dau cu el de pamant, dupa ce s-a rupt gura aceea si a cazut in galeria de admisie si eu am ramas cu senzorul in mana..... O singura data in 14 ani am vrut sa-l curat si m-am lecuit....lam scos acum 3 ani si de la caldura/timp s-a rupt efectiv, plasticul devenise casant.... Masina merge si fara ( dar in regim de avarie) cu conditia ca gaura aceea in care intra, sa fie astupata, lucru care si eu l-am facut atunci intrun cor de injuraturi si blesteme la adresa renault/dacia.....am pus un furtun cu un surub in el cu colier.... Acum rad cand imi aduc aminte, dar ce injuraturi am tras..... Ai grija deci cu supra curatatul lui.....si mai ai grija la ceva, tot scotandul sa nui tasezi garniturile acelea, risti sa iti traga aer fals dupa aceea
Imi pare rau ca s-a intamplat asta, insa iti multumesc mult ca imi impartasesti din experienta! ;) Daca il curat o data pe an este des? Momentan prinde foarte bine si etanseaza boboc. A iesit mult mai greu decat ma asteptam, chiar daca mai facusem operatiunea in trecut.
Acum mi s-a pus pata si am igienizat si locasul filtrului de habitaclu si l-am schimbat cu cel Mahle, ca doar eu respir aerul din masina :D Imediat termin de editat filmuletul
m3rovingian Hmm...nu strica, dar e des...eu nu lam curatat 10-12 ani....:))))....ma rog, nici ca mine Daca iese greu inseamna ca incepe sa se "coaca" de la caldura timp....deci stii ce te asteapta :)))) Macar cand il cureti sa iti planifici sa nu ai nevoie de masina in caz ca se rupe....eventual unul de rezerva desi costa o poala de bani....sunt si cu 50 lei dar..... Oricum, daca se intampla, trebuie sa pui un dop acolo altfel nu mergi cu ea....daca pui dop, mergi mult si bine
m3rovingian Exact asa gandesc si eu insa la mine nu am facut asa...am curatat la motor carcasa filtrului insa la habitaclu.... Deci ma intereseaza mai mult motorul decat soferul, conduc gen Ace Ventura style, capul scos pe geam :)))
@@m3rovingian ur stupid just u say A,am,a,am,and a,the a Ur a kid ur just advertising motor oil and ur stuff Ur engine is trash go give to the service center
![Megane 3 [K4M] How to Remove / Clean MAP Sensor?](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CilAxCfv2MY/mqdefault.jpg)
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Hello, I hope i got answer soon because i need..
I have Megane 2 1.5dci 2004 year and i have increased fuel consumption over 2l/100km, before this my car consume about 6l/100km, now about 8-8.5l/100km... then i connect car with my some cheap diagnostic tool, and i found error code DF039 which mean sensor intake air temperature..
so what i need to do to fix my problem and reduce fuel consumption?
btw i looked my car, and i found MAP sensor, do i have MAF too? or i can have only 1 sensor MAF or MAP
I really can't help you any further than what I did in this video. Since your car is diesel you need to have it checked even better than my petrol one.
Try to do the following. make sure your oil is brand new and clean. I recommend Liqui Moly 5W30 or 0W30 of any variation from Leichtlauf HT, Synthoil HT or Molygen. All are very good and perfect for diesel engines
Then make sure you have a clean engine air filter. Replace it every 10.000km. With the oil it's the same km.
Clean that sensor if you can and also the intake manifold by using a product designed for it. I have videos regarding that also.
Put in the most expensive and good diesel fuel and add to a full tank a product from Liqui Moly that is said to clean the engine and the valves and the DPF partivcle filter and drive your car revved up in the 4th gear on a highway road, after the engine is all warmed up, for at least 30 minutes to 1 hour. In the gears 1, 2 and 3 change the gears at 3000 rpms, then in 4th keep it near the red line and drive it like that vfor 1 hour straight. You'll clean the engine and you'll see it'll perform way better. the fuel makes a lot of difference and the drive style. On your diesel don't drive it under revved. Take it up to 3000rpms, after the engine is warmed up, in any gear change.
Thank you for your video. I followed exactly what you did and it has made a HUGE difference! I have smooth acceleration now :-)
I feel honored i could help!. i wish you to have it like that all the time! I will do it again this year soon! All the best!
Thank you for video - do you spray cleaner right into hole of sensor?
Yes, gently a few times its all it takes.
@@m3rovingian - many thanks
All the best!
This is not a MAF it is a MAP - that is the air pressure sensor that measures the air pressure from the turbo. The MAF or mass air flowmeter is located just after the airfilter.
Thank you for the info! Apologies for the misunderstanding
@@m3rovingian hi i have the same car and when i accelerate from a stop my car stuttering on 2k rpm - 4k rpm and when i go uphill it needs to floor it to go and i cannot go more than 50kmh uphill but when i go straight it can go up to 150kmh
Do you know what's going on with my Clio?
@@leotech99 I really can't tell. Make sure you go to a good mechanic and see what's up. But before you do that try to change yourself the engine air filter, clean the throttle and the MAP sensor you see right here, and if the issue remains the same do to the mechanic. Also make sure you replace the oil every maximum 10.000km.
@@m3rovingian ok i will try it to change filters and oil first if it is the same i will send it to the mechanic
@@leotech99 Very well. Hope you'll solve the problem.
What was the error in dashboard?check injection system ?thanks
There was no error on dashboard. That check engine light is on all the time when I put in the ignition key to show the fuel pump is engaged and when I turn on the engine, the light turns off. It's how the Clio 3 cars are made and most probably all Renault cars from the early 2010's.
Aveai fluctuații de relanti? Înainte de curățarea senzorului?
Nu neaparat, insa avea momente masina cand dadea in nas, mi ales la rece. DUpa ce am curatat senzorul si clapeta de admisie a mers de fiecare data perfect, rotund si fara gatuieli. Acum imi cam joaca relantiul datorita faptului ca intre timp am trecut pe GPL si fiindca aerul conditionat ia mult din putearea motorului. Insa dupa ce rulez putin turometrul e ceas. Anul asta cred ca am curatat senzorul de 3 ori :) La fel si clapeta.
Did you also spray inside the air sensor or just outside of it ?
Inside the maniford?
din cauza uleiului din el poate da eroarea de valoare maxima? pe cel care a fost la masina l-am rupt de linga inelul de etansare, am comandat nou de pe aliexpres, azi mi-a aparut eroare, l-am spalat cu solutie si l-am pus la loc, voi vedea in viitor daca va mai aparea eroare.
Ai grija ce cumperi de pe aliexpress, sa nu fie vreo chinezarie care sa nu mearga. De asemenea trebuie sa ai grija canmd il scoti cu foarte mare grina sa pui presiune cu ambele maini sub el si asa incet il scoti de acolo. Cand il pui la loc sa te asiguri ca este introdus pana la capat cu ambele oringuri in interior. MI-a spus unu ca trebuie doar oringul verde in interior si cel negru lasat afara. Am facut asa si dupa cteva zile cand am inspectat din nou motorul si am pus mana pe senzor, mai sa-mi cada printre degete. ma mir cum de nu a iesit din locas. Deci sa-l pui pana jos.
E foarte important sa fie curat. operatiunea asta poti sa o faci de 2 ori pe an, insa cu grija sa nu-l mai rupi. E nasol mai ales daca pica in motor capatul rupt.
@@m3rovingian , la mine e cu un singur inel de cauciuc, megane 2 1.5 dci, bucata cea care s-a rupt am extras-o cu un fir metalic, am facut un cirlig si am tras
@@NicolaeGoncerenco Ma bucur sa stiu asta. Ai avut mare noroc. Ce pot sa-ti spun e sa te asiguri ca schimbi filtrul de aer la 10.000 km, sa-i cureti si clapeta de admisie anual si senzorul asta. Asa va merge perfect. Eu nu am avut pana acum nicio problema, ina afara inconvenientului cu rampa de injectoare GPL necalibrata...Acum masina merge la fel ca pe benzina, impecabil.
That's the MAP sensor not the MAF sensor(!)
It measure 'Manifold Absolute Pressure" - "MAP".
Thank you for the correction and apologies for the mistake.
When you installed back sensor it is inserted wrong. Sensor must be in hole in inlet manifold between 2x orings. Green must be in manifold and air tight black must stick out to prevent dirt.
What you are saying makes perfect sense but the problem is I found it like that from the first time and nobody worked on it before. Why is that?
@@m3rovingian
The sensor is designed to hold between this 2 gaskets. After few years gasket loose stiffness and sensor is falling all the way in in the manifold. Btw there is a big problem with vacuum leak in that part and sensor is designed in mass production for many other vehicles. System of sealing that part is not designed as it should. Many services seal the hole or install 4mm gasket to map to seal better. Other posibility is to connect tyre valve and install sensor on vacuum pipe. When you seal the sensor you will see the mass improvement in working of the engine.
@@mr.t2585 I will go and try it now and see if it will seal correctly. Maybe that was causing my engine to misfire? Jesus Christ! Because I pressed it all the way in?
@@mr.t2585 Thank you so much for the heads up. I corrected the position of the MAP sensor. But it must be a miracle I didn't had any problems. With it like that the car pulled with 0.4 hp more than from factory stock on the Dyno before the first Stage 1 try. Here is the video with the correct possition after you told me to: ruclips.net/video/HGRIPOk93jw/видео.html Thank you once again!
@@m3rovingian Great. Problems can be with wrong o2 sensor readings, poor idle, hesistations.. the sensor itself will fall again in hole, you need to insert something 4mm thick between black gasket and sensor itself to hold it in this position. Bad design by renault as i said before. It could be worse if this engine have the MAF. This readings will then affect to much worse parameters.
Wow thanks every much
My pleasure, anytime!
It believe that it was inserted to deeply. The sensor should stay up to between the two orings. And this is a MAP not MAF sensor.
No man, it needs to bee all the way down. I tried it like that before and I almost found it out of place. Yes, I corrected the title from MAF to MAP.
Nu stiu daca s-a trimis ce am scris..
Nu mi-a aparut in notificari. noroc ca am intrat eu iar aici...Nu stiu care-i faza... :(
Acum au aparut notificarile :D
if i have not this cleaner, what can use ?
Nothing. use only special cleaner for the exact purpose
Contact spray
Air Flow Sensor Cleaner €5 Air Flow Sensor €8
That is not an original sensor. It'll do more harm than good for your car.
Can someone Help.I have Renault clio 1.6 gt line.the problom that i have is when i want to accelerate,the car goes into limp mode and the car start shaking pretty badly. code p0300 ramdom multiple cylinder misfire detected.
Go to a reputable car service in your town and get it fixed properly.
Be careful! I have tried that on a 21-year-old Clio II, but the sensor broke and a part of the sensor fall inside (the air intake).
If you are gentle you won't break it. You also need to pull it upwards and not tilt it in any way.
@@m3rovingian Too late for me 😞 Do you have or know of a video on openning the air collector? I have removed 4 screws with star-shaped heads, but I still cannot open it 😞
@@aaabbb8198 What air collector?
@@m3rovingian I think the proper name is "inlet". I am not an expert, but I meant lifting the inlet manifold, and fortunatelly got a link from a friend. Unfortunatelly, there are more screws to remove and I will need to re-visit the subject later.
@@aaabbb8198 ok. Thank you for pointing it out.
Eheii....ce "gently" imi venea mie sa dau cu el de pamant, dupa ce s-a rupt gura aceea si a cazut in galeria de admisie si eu am ramas cu senzorul in mana.....
O singura data in 14 ani am vrut sa-l curat si m-am lecuit....lam scos acum 3 ani si de la caldura/timp s-a rupt efectiv, plasticul devenise casant....
Masina merge si fara ( dar in regim de avarie) cu conditia ca gaura aceea in care intra, sa fie astupata, lucru care si eu l-am facut atunci intrun cor de injuraturi si blesteme la adresa renault/dacia.....am pus un furtun cu un surub in el cu colier....
Acum rad cand imi aduc aminte, dar ce injuraturi am tras.....
Ai grija deci cu supra curatatul lui.....si mai ai grija la ceva, tot scotandul sa nui tasezi garniturile acelea, risti sa iti traga aer fals dupa aceea
Imi pare rau ca s-a intamplat asta, insa iti multumesc mult ca imi impartasesti din experienta! ;)
Daca il curat o data pe an este des? Momentan prinde foarte bine si etanseaza boboc. A iesit mult mai greu decat ma asteptam, chiar daca mai facusem operatiunea in trecut.
Acum mi s-a pus pata si am igienizat si locasul filtrului de habitaclu si l-am schimbat cu cel Mahle, ca doar eu respir aerul din masina :D Imediat termin de editat filmuletul
m3rovingian Hmm...nu strica, dar e des...eu nu lam curatat 10-12 ani....:))))....ma rog, nici ca mine
Daca iese greu inseamna ca incepe sa se "coaca" de la caldura timp....deci stii ce te asteapta :))))
Macar cand il cureti sa iti planifici sa nu ai nevoie de masina in caz ca se rupe....eventual unul de rezerva desi costa o poala de bani....sunt si cu 50 lei dar.....
Oricum, daca se intampla, trebuie sa pui un dop acolo altfel nu mergi cu ea....daca pui dop, mergi mult si bine
m3rovingian Exact asa gandesc si eu insa la mine nu am facut asa...am curatat la motor carcasa filtrului insa la habitaclu....
Deci ma intereseaza mai mult motorul decat soferul, conduc gen Ace Ventura style, capul scos pe geam :)))
Ok, bine ca mi-ai spus. Pe viitor, daca nu-i stricat nu-l repar :D O sa-l mai spray-ez cand 'oi considera ca e relantiul prea mare cu motorul incalzit
Are you advertising gloves?
Is that all you've understood from this video?
Why does he call it air flow when title says map 2 totally dirrent sensors 1 measures flow map measures vacume on none turbo and boost vacume on turbo
Apologies for the misunderstanding. It wasn't on purpose
You bave som problem in yor engin becauce have som sound no normal
Keep in mind this is how the camera records it. My car runs butter smooth in reality.
@@m3rovingian ur stupid just u say A,am,a,am,and a,the a
Ur a kid ur just advertising motor oil and ur stuff
Ur engine is trash go give to the service center
Bonsoir c'est vrai que je ne comprends pas votre langue mais le plus qui me gêne que c'est trop lent
D'accord. Au revoir!
Just bloody show how to get the sensor out why do you have to waste time on talking about your gloves
You can see it 1 minute into the video. Was that so much for you?
gondon
what?