Gecko Gauge Clamps: amzn.to/31jX9ps Diamond Blade for cutting: amzn.to/32s74KL Air Filter Mask: amzn.to/31pUsm4 This is what I purchased. Thanks. (paid link) As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Great job and great way of explaining the process and details in an easy to understand level. And great attention to details with the caulking, and pre-drill to nail. Awesome Job!!
For me, the ideas in ruclips.net/user/postUgkxAfqpMLyFn37qcqUl0FAzqkkycQeXqrhP Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.
Feels great doing it yourself. You save so much money now, not to mention how hard it is to even find someone good to do the work, it is not even worth having others do it anymore.
Nice work, our daughter got a quote for 40,000.00 to do the front of her house in Folsom Calif. Crazy we are going to do it. My wifes builds everything she is a pro. We are going to do just a section at a time...
Little tip for your frost free hose bibb. Slightly slope the hose bibb so it fully drains out when you close the valve. That way it works as intended and won’t free up during a cold snap.
I think you did a good job sir. It’s your house. You saw a problem and fixed it yourself. Took the time while doing it to record the job. Gives others like myself an idea of what we are getting into. Yes it might not have been professionally done. As for all these professionals stating you should have done this or that. Even though they might be trying to help out all I am seeing is guys who are being negative towards a guy who wanted to fix something himself who knows he could do the job himself just as good as a crew from some professional company. Because I have seen some of the so called professional companies crews. The only one who knows exactly how to work on things will not be on the job site instead he/she will be out biding on jobs or vacationing somewhere. Thanks again sir on your video. And I guess if you have to do other parts of the house you will have all the professional inputs from this comment section to do it better then their crews. God bless
Projects like these give several homeowners and DIY the confidence and courage to take on a siding project. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience. I watched the whole thing, but I didn't really see or hear you talk about how you corrected the root cause of the water damage in the first place. I assume you had to replace the rotted backer-boards. I also did not see if you took the time to correctly flash the window, which could have been the source of your previous failure. People still use the black tar house wrap. Probably OK, but there are better materials recommended by the board manufacturers which are not terribly expensive compared to having to come back in 10 years to rip out the wall again. In anycase, good job and thanks for sharing your experience.
Great video. My son built me a 3 sided 12x12 lean to shed attached to the back of my house, then he left me to do the siding. Fortunately, I only have 1 door and NO windows. It’s strictly a storage room. Don’t even have power inside it. I thought that I might let a carpenter do it for me until I got bids ranging from $1700 to $2800! Made up my mind to do it myself, thanks for the info.
Thanks for sharing your experience. This is better than so called professionals. Professionals did my house siding job in Houston. They did not do proper job. Wish I had seen this video before.
They make chop saw and circular saw blades designed specifically for the Hardie board planks. One of the main features is they cut way down on dust and dangerous kick back of the saw.
Good job. I did a whole huge church by myself and I ran chalk lines and I bent banding strap onto an S shape to hold one end up while I tacked the first end then removed the clip and finished nailing it off. Saved $60 but these clamps are cool too.
Oh if all contractors had your perfectionism. Actually I came here looking how to cut already installed hardie board in order to install an awning bracket. But stay for the whole thing even tho it was a different tutorial. Good video and pleasant to watch. I didn’t think to put flashing behind my boards when I installed them. 🥴 I’ll know next time.
Just a couple items: The house should have a house wrap with dimples or water creases to breath. All cuts should be painted. The corners, (not joints) should be caulked with Quad color match, un-tooled (per manufacture's warrantee). The butt joints we back caulk with clear Dap. The existing siding looks like an LP wood siding and is of very good quality. the usual reason for failure of this siding is water getting behind it. This can be because of the original install was incorrect, or there is a water leak of some sort. Now if there is a water leak allowing water behind the product, this will create the same issue with your brand new Cement board siding in the same fashion. good luck
I wish I had those clamps when I did my siding. I hung a lot of those twelve foot planks alone, without clamps. It took some ingenuity. But I used an air nailer. Actually a framing nailer. That helps but hammers are fine for smaller jobs Good video
pretty good video on a non professional putting in siding. I'm a non pro who has done about 10 structures with Hardie and other brands. Here are a couple comments. 1. yeah, there are other clamps out there, cheaper and maybe better. 2. I really recommend stainless siding nails for Hardie Board. Cement is hard on steel. Rust will happen and then discolor the paint where the siding is. I use a nail gun with Stainless nails. 3. For Hardie trim, DEFINITELY use a stainless brad nailer. Won't have to countersink or putty even. (16 gauge is great, but 18 is ok too). Surprisingly, the brads hold Great on 1" thick trim. 4. yes, quite worthwhile to put on flashing at joints. I typically use peel and stick flashing for those places. Easier and faster than AL, but AL is fine. 5. As to caulking, YES, he did it well, but I don't use a finger to smooth it out. Use a putty knife. If you use a finger then it often leaves a bit too much in the "wood pattern" finish of the board. Then that "smear" shows up in the paint. Hardie is such a great product for holding paint. You paint 1/4 as often with Hardie as with wood. So might as well make that paint look good! 6. For Cutting the Hardie, I have a Kett shear, that works pretty well. But when you use that it makes a lot of mess so spread out a tarp below the place you are cutting to collect the mess. I also use a hardie blade in my chop saw. Hardie dust is not great, but with a mask, it is ok especially if the wind is pulling it away. A chop saw is way faster and more accurate for the great majority of cuts. I use the angle grinder sparingly. Too much dust. Still, his video is great. Pretty much anyone can do it if they are careful. The results are great. You will paint WAY less often.
Never caulk the joints and always paint or prime cut edges according to a Hardie siding tutorial video I watched. But, I think that you did an awesome job by yourself. You were very professional in explaining everything that you did. I really appreciate you for sharing your video with us. Thanks man!
It's fine to caulk it it's just an old method of doing it...nothing wrong with it. Especially because he did it as an extra measure of protection aside from the flashing he did.
Michel Linschoten its a waste of time caulking the joints on the hardie board. Over time the cement board shifts so the caulk will crack after being painted.
Yes I install this siding most of the time we do siding and you are supposed to prime or even better hardy paint your cut ends and never caulk seams due to expansion. Also you are supposed to caulk with hardy colored caulk it is meant to be finished product after instalation/caulk. No paint needed
Where I live in California Most new homes get build with STUCCO exterior There are a few homes that have Hardie Boards I think the final look is great would love to build a home this way.
Predrill is really a bright idea because using a pneumatic nailer you will sometimes blow out the hardy when you have that black fiber sheathing. Clean work guy.
thanks. im going to respond here to some of the questions posted by others... every nail was hammered into a stud, i sped some of the video clips up to keep the video shorter so it might look like i was hammering too easily. Also, the final top board was face nailed then i used a little dab of caulk on the nail heads to weather seal. and yes i know i sound like woody harelson lulz :) and this siding was brutal on my skin, loading 30-40 pieces up at home depot onto a cart, into my truck, offloaded into the yard, then install on my house. i found gloves were essential. thanks for watching.
It should be coated aluminum, or roofing felt strips.. ie something compatible with concrete. Regular concrete will corrode aluminum.. resembles white rust.
Nice work. Sort of the Cliff Notes version. Details where you need it and not where you dont. Keep up teh uploads . Starting a siding replacement on my own house,. This was helpfull.
Professional craftsman, pleasure to watch, you might also suggest the blind application of bling back caulking of all terminations, at corners, window cuts. Apply a high quality silicone or bulty based caulking on the back side of panel, this insures any and all water penetration and small flying critters finding a home.Doug
I used the concrete board when I had to replace some facia boards on my home, I'm sure glad I did! I used screws instead of nails.... that way they won't come out...on there own...
"RING SHANKS" DONT "COME OUT" 1/4 the price of Screws! Plus you're not supposed to nail it tight you're supposed to leave it loose so that it has room to expand when the Sun hits it
I’ve learned over the years to use Teflon tape and pipe dope for a belt and suspenders approach; I used one or the other for years until a plumber told me why to use both when I couldn’t understand why some brass fitting wouldn’t stop leaking.
Seems a lot of people like to nit pick in the comment section. I think the job you did looks great. And I appreciate the extra time that it took to document the project. I was curious about the last row of siding though. The transition where the new siding slid under the old. Where did you nail it?
Not bad , and maybe better than most. Rover ron is right on the proper installation for JH siding. See if you can put some thin plastic or copper/alum/steel shim in between the strip and the house. this will form a slight weep hole so water may pass if present. A shim every 4 feet in between nails in the strip will be better than nothing. The clamps a less flexible on the smaller size JH siding, anyway 3 months and I'm on my last wall.
Aluminum flashing will oxidize over time. Vinyl coated flashing would be a better recommendation. Your suppose to use builders felt but it gets brittle and cracks over time. Great video
My dude... you have done everything (EVERYTHING) right. Except for this; where is the housewrap - or better yet, the self adhering waterproofing membrane - that should be on the house down low, behind the starter course?
Jack Vetra what do you mean by face nailed? if you don’t mind me asking. I want to install similar siding to the ones on the video and would like to avoid reinstalling down the road such as your case. Thanks in advanced!
@@JMaldonado9 traditional cedar clapboard siding was (and is) face nailed, meaning that the nails are driven in through the bottom 1/2"-3/4" of each course. Basically the nails support the heavy bottom edge of each piece. However, with hardie board, the boards are "blind nailed" at 1" down from the top edge. Then the next course goes on and its bottom edge covers those nails.
The reason why the old siding failed is because of dry rot. This happens when moisture gets trapped behind siding that is not vented. If your outside wall surface (tar paper in your case) had been strapped, and properly vented, it would not have rotted. I hope your cement board doesn't fail with the same underlying condition--it may take longer to fail. I have seen cement board flake apart in high moisture conditions. Also, I'd recommend replacing the tar paper with house wrap to assist in removing moisture in the wall because it breaths; tar paper doesn't breath. Gecko gauges were about $75 on Amazon so I made my own (adjustable hook type with 7/8" overlap for my siding) and they work well. Thank you for your video. Good job. Subscribed. We are all learning...
i premark all chalklines on corner trim pieces then chalk top of boards up to 3feet then chaulk bottoms of rows after comes out perfectly straight everytime
Our house that we live in; we subcontracted and built a lot of it ourselves over 24 years ago. It is a two story home with brick and Hardie board. Our Hardie board siding still looks and performs great. It takes paint well, and cleans off gently. Many people compliment our siding. It is expensive but worth the money.
Looks great and you seem to want to do it the right way. Along those lines, I just watched a James Hardie produced video and they contradicted at least two things you did. First they say you MUST reprime the edges of any siding that you cut, which you didn't. And they say NOT to use caulking. Don't shoot me, I'm just the messenger.
Gecko Gauge Clamps: amzn.to/31jX9ps
Diamond Blade for cutting: amzn.to/32s74KL
Air Filter Mask: amzn.to/31pUsm4
This is what I purchased.
Thanks.
(paid link)
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Great job and great way of explaining the process and details in an easy to understand level. And great attention to details with the caulking, and pre-drill to nail. Awesome Job!!
For me, the ideas in ruclips.net/user/postUgkxAfqpMLyFn37qcqUl0FAzqkkycQeXqrhP Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.
Feels great doing it yourself. You save so much money now, not to mention how hard it is to even find someone good to do the work, it is not even worth having others do it anymore.
This is a masterly "how to" video. Succinct and straight to the point. Not a wasted second.
Nice work, our daughter got a quote for 40,000.00 to do the front of her house in Folsom Calif. Crazy we are going to do it. My wifes builds everything she is a pro. We are going to do just a section at a time...
How did it turn out? I’m sure it was better then paying $40K.
There’s a lot of good DIY vids on RUclips, but I got to say this is really top-notch. Very clear and very thorough in 7 minutes...amazing!
Little tip for your frost free hose bibb. Slightly slope the hose bibb so it fully drains out when you close the valve. That way it works as intended and won’t free up during a cold snap.
Seems like you take pride in your work, which is nice to see. It's becoming less and less common. Well done!
Team Buck Rogers h
I think you did a good job sir. It’s your house. You saw a problem and fixed it yourself. Took the time while doing it to record the job. Gives others like myself an idea of what we are getting into. Yes it might not have been professionally done. As for all these professionals stating you should have done this or that. Even though they might be trying to help out all I am seeing is guys who are being negative towards a guy who wanted to fix something himself who knows he could do the job himself just as good as a crew from some professional company. Because I have seen some of the so called professional companies crews. The only one who knows exactly how to work on things will not be on the job site instead he/she will be out biding on jobs or vacationing somewhere. Thanks again sir on your video. And I guess if you have to do other parts of the house you will have all the professional inputs from this comment section to do it better then their crews. God bless
Projects like these give several homeowners and DIY the confidence and courage to take on a siding project. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience. I watched the whole thing, but I didn't really see or hear you talk about how you corrected the root cause of the water damage in the first place. I assume you had to replace the rotted backer-boards. I also did not see if you took the time to correctly flash the window, which could have been the source of your previous failure. People still use the black tar house wrap. Probably OK, but there are better materials recommended by the board manufacturers which are not terribly expensive compared to having to come back in 10 years to rip out the wall again. In anycase, good job and thanks for sharing your experience.
Great video. My son built me a 3 sided 12x12 lean to shed attached to the back of my house, then he left me to do the siding. Fortunately, I only have 1 door and NO windows. It’s strictly a storage room. Don’t even have power inside it. I thought that I might let a carpenter do it for me until I got bids ranging from $1700 to $2800! Made up my mind to do it myself, thanks for the info.
I give you props for doing all that with hammer and nail, pre-drilling. You do nice work. If you’re ever in New Jersey, and need a job. Let me know
Dude thank you so much for making this. I dont know where else i could find exactly what i needed to try and do this myself. Once again thank you!
Awesome job. I like how you have put a damp coarse on every joint to prevent leak despite having the rap. Most trades forget this part. 👍
Thanks for sharing your experience. This is better than so called professionals. Professionals did my house siding job in Houston. They did not do proper job. Wish I had seen this video before.
You go above and beyond than most installers I’ve seen installing hardy plank.
All of his siding is going to sag because he failed to mark the studs to nail properly.
oscar hernandez ,
He replied elsewhere that he indeed fastened every board at the “Studs”.
They make chop saw and circular saw blades designed specifically for the Hardie board planks. One of the main features is they cut way down on dust and dangerous kick back of the saw.
I like the flashing behind the joints. Never thought of doing that.....thanks.
We usually use felt or left over tyvek for flashing. not really supposed to caulk joints.
Don’t see the need for the flashing... seems like extra work for nothing. That’s what the tyvek is for...
Good job. I did a whole huge church by myself and I ran chalk lines and I bent banding strap onto an S shape to hold one end up while I tacked the first end then removed the clip and finished nailing it off. Saved $60 but these clamps are cool too.
Good tip in a pinch.
Ive installed miles of the stuff with this method !! steel lumber bands work and there free !
Thanks, you did a great job explaining the Geckos and your clean installation of the siding. Great Job!
You got a Like from me just for the urban camo pants you are wearing. Very informative and succinct video!
Thanks for this informative video. I know more about installing siding than before.
Oh if all contractors had your perfectionism. Actually I came here looking how to cut already installed hardie board in order to install an awning bracket. But stay for the whole thing even tho it was a different tutorial. Good video and pleasant to watch. I didn’t think to put flashing behind my boards when I installed them. 🥴 I’ll know next time.
Just a couple items: The house should have a house wrap with dimples or water creases to breath. All cuts should be painted. The corners, (not joints) should be caulked with Quad color match, un-tooled (per manufacture's warrantee). The butt joints we back caulk with clear Dap. The existing siding looks like an LP wood siding and is of very good quality. the usual reason for failure of this siding is water getting behind it. This can be because of the original install was incorrect, or there is a water leak of some sort. Now if there is a water leak allowing water behind the product, this will create the same issue with your brand new Cement board siding in the same fashion. good luck
Do you use flashing behind each butt joint?
Yes. We usually paint it black or siding color so it can disappear when the siding shrinks.
I wish I had those clamps when I did my siding. I hung a lot of those twelve foot planks alone, without clamps. It took some ingenuity.
But I used an air nailer. Actually a framing nailer. That helps but hammers are fine for smaller jobs
Good video
Love to hear how you did it.
Fantastic job with both the siding and the video my friend.
pretty good video on a non professional putting in siding. I'm a non pro who has done about 10 structures with Hardie and other brands. Here are a couple comments. 1. yeah, there are other clamps out there, cheaper and maybe better. 2. I really recommend stainless siding nails for Hardie Board. Cement is hard on steel. Rust will happen and then discolor the paint where the siding is. I use a nail gun with Stainless nails. 3. For Hardie trim, DEFINITELY use a stainless brad nailer. Won't have to countersink or putty even. (16 gauge is great, but 18 is ok too). Surprisingly, the brads hold Great on 1" thick trim. 4. yes, quite worthwhile to put on flashing at joints. I typically use peel and stick flashing for those places. Easier and faster than AL, but AL is fine. 5. As to caulking, YES, he did it well, but I don't use a finger to smooth it out. Use a putty knife. If you use a finger then it often leaves a bit too much in the "wood pattern" finish of the board. Then that "smear" shows up in the paint. Hardie is such a great product for holding paint. You paint 1/4 as often with Hardie as with wood. So might as well make that paint look good! 6. For Cutting the Hardie, I have a Kett shear, that works pretty well. But when you use that it makes a lot of mess so spread out a tarp below the place you are cutting to collect the mess. I also use a hardie blade in my chop saw. Hardie dust is not great, but with a mask, it is ok especially if the wind is pulling it away. A chop saw is way faster and more accurate for the great majority of cuts. I use the angle grinder sparingly. Too much dust.
Still, his video is great. Pretty much anyone can do it if they are careful. The results are great. You will paint WAY less often.
excellent video, you went into detail and gave thorough instructions. Thanks for your time.
good job; the electric snips for hardie work well for cutting these boards.
Never caulk the joints and always paint or prime cut edges according to a Hardie siding tutorial video I watched. But, I think that you did an awesome job by yourself. You were very professional in explaining everything that you did. I really appreciate you for sharing your video with us. Thanks man!
It's fine to caulk it it's just an old method of doing it...nothing wrong with it. Especially because he did it as an extra measure of protection aside from the flashing he did.
Michel Linschoten its a waste of time caulking the joints on the hardie board. Over time the cement board shifts so the caulk will crack after being painted.
Yes I install this siding most of the time we do siding and you are supposed to prime or even better hardy paint your cut ends and never caulk seams due to expansion. Also you are supposed to caulk with hardy colored caulk it is meant to be finished product after instalation/caulk. No paint needed
Why would you prime the cut edges of CONCRETE siding material? It doesn't rot.
@@brianv.5686 it will absorb water
Where I live in California
Most new homes get build with STUCCO exterior
There are a few homes that have
Hardie Boards
I think the final look is great
would love to build a home this way.
u did a great job and the ending was cool..........
Well explained with all very closed footage. Thanks
Getting ready to replace some 1 x 12" siding and your video gives some great info!
Really nice amigo and you explain veryyyyy clearly...gracias!!
Predrill is really a bright idea because using a pneumatic nailer you will sometimes blow out the hardy when you have that black fiber sheathing. Clean work guy.
thanks. im going to respond here to some of the questions posted by others... every nail was hammered into a stud, i sped some of the video clips up to keep the video shorter so it might look like i was hammering too easily. Also, the final top board was face nailed then i used a little dab of caulk on the nail heads to weather seal. and yes i know i sound like woody harelson lulz :) and this siding was brutal on my skin, loading 30-40 pieces up at home depot onto a cart, into my truck, offloaded into the yard, then install on my house. i found gloves were essential. thanks for watching.
per manufacturer the hardee has to be nail to the studs, not doing so voids the manufacturers warranty.
I used OSB with the same texture and thickness. Didn't have any breaks or chip offs from nails. Thing is they don't have these gecko's for 12" siding.
Great video 5yrs ago well done
Did this all by myself girl power 👏🏻🥳👏🏻👀🇨🇦💡 looks great
Good explanation video for us inexperienced
Flashing between joints is a great idea, I have never seen anyone do that.!
It should be coated aluminum, or roofing felt strips.. ie something compatible with concrete. Regular concrete will corrode aluminum.. resembles white rust.
Nice work. Sort of the Cliff Notes version. Details where you need it and not where you dont. Keep up teh uploads . Starting a siding replacement on my own house,. This was helpfull.
Great job as for both the work carried out, but also, the explanatory teaching part as well!!! Cheers~!~!~!~
Professional craftsman, pleasure to watch, you might also suggest the blind application of bling back caulking of all terminations, at corners, window cuts. Apply a high quality silicone or bulty based caulking on the back side of panel, this insures any and all water penetration and small flying critters finding a home.Doug
I used the concrete board when I had to replace some facia boards on my home, I'm sure glad I did! I used screws instead of nails.... that way they won't come out...on there own...
"RING SHANKS" DONT "COME OUT"
1/4 the price of Screws!
Plus you're not supposed to nail it tight you're supposed to leave it loose so that it has room to expand when the Sun hits it
A very professional job! Did you ever think about doing this for a living???
Very instructional but you never caulk the butt joints, good sir.
Very nicely done.
I recommend Quad Caulk because that caulking is cracking in the hot summer before the year here in California
Awesome video those gecko clips are clutch
I have a set of them and they are worth every penny you spend on them I have sided a whole house by myself
I’ve learned over the years to use Teflon tape and pipe dope for a belt and suspenders approach; I used one or the other for years until a plumber told me why to use both when I couldn’t understand why some brass fitting wouldn’t stop leaking.
Thank you! Nice job. Need to replace similar on my house.
Thanks man, I am saving this video. Seems super easy to do myself
Is woody harrelson narrating this
I thought the same thing
Nice!
I'm not alone in the world!
I can't unhear it now...
I was getting ready to type this....but you beat me to it by a few years :)
You are doing a bang up job!!!
A+
No bullshit DIY. Great editing, right to the point.
great job, specially since you are doing it by yourself
Great Job 👍 I've been looking for this video
Fantastic tip... i can do it myself now....
Seems a lot of people like to nit pick in the comment section. I think the job you did looks great. And I appreciate the extra time that it took to document the project. I was curious about the last row of siding though. The transition where the new siding slid under the old. Where did you nail it?
the top board was face nailed. then wiped a dab of caulk on top of the nail heads before painting.
AnimationBubble I figured. Thanks for the reply.
If you drive in the nails perfectly flush and paint them over they are virtually invisible
Nice work. The Hardie plank should last as long as the house.
Not bad , and maybe better than most. Rover ron is right on the proper installation for JH siding. See if you can put some thin plastic or copper/alum/steel shim in between the strip and the house. this will form a slight weep hole so water may pass if present. A shim every 4 feet in between nails in the strip will be better than nothing. The clamps a less flexible on the smaller size JH siding, anyway 3 months and I'm on my last wall.
I’d recommend a Diablo Fiber Cement Blade to cut down on the dust. I’m a Hardie Manufactturer Sales Rep for what it’s worth...
Do you only nail the top or can you use finishing nails to hold down the bottoms?
Being a hardie rep you gonna call him out for caulking the seams .
Redling!
@@ricardobetancourt6502 You can nail bottom but only if absolutely necessary, blind nailing looks better. See James Hardie instructions.
He should.
This is a great detailed video
How did you nail the top piece of siding under the old siding?
Great comment Isaac. I wondered the same thing myself.
I have these tools. They are great.
Excellent video. Saved for next year. Well done!
Aluminum flashing will oxidize over time. Vinyl coated flashing would be a better recommendation. Your suppose to use builders felt but it gets brittle and cracks over time. Great video
Looks great, I need to get a good cutting tool like that. Time for harbor freight, lol.
Thanks for a very instructive video
I put my starter strip on with adhesive and tape it up to the back of the first piece and pull the tape of later when the adhesive days!
Dude your awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!
Excellent job.
My dude... you have done everything (EVERYTHING) right. Except for this; where is the housewrap - or better yet, the self adhering waterproofing membrane - that should be on the house down low, behind the starter course?
Jack Vetra what do you mean by face nailed? if you don’t mind me asking. I want to install similar siding to the ones on the video and would like to avoid reinstalling down the road such as your case. Thanks in advanced!
@@JMaldonado9 traditional cedar clapboard siding was (and is) face nailed, meaning that the nails are driven in through the bottom 1/2"-3/4" of each course. Basically the nails support the heavy bottom edge of each piece. However, with hardie board, the boards are "blind nailed" at 1" down from the top edge. Then the next course goes on and its bottom edge covers those nails.
nice and instructive, we do not have this yet in the Netherlands but there is a market coming
Robert Bot don't take advice from this video check out the James hardy website all the info you need is on there
New Challengers Hobbies thank you very much for your advice
The reason why the old siding failed is because of dry rot. This happens when moisture gets trapped behind siding that is not vented. If your outside wall surface (tar paper in your case) had been strapped, and properly vented, it would not have rotted. I hope your cement board doesn't fail with the same underlying condition--it may take longer to fail. I have seen cement board flake apart in high moisture conditions. Also, I'd recommend replacing the tar paper with house wrap to assist in removing moisture in the wall because it breaths; tar paper doesn't breath. Gecko gauges were about $75 on Amazon so I made my own (adjustable hook type with 7/8" overlap for my siding) and they work well. Thank you for your video. Good job. Subscribed. We are all learning...
You should make a video of your handmade gecko gages!
What kind of nails did you use?
Awesome work my friend i learned something from you. Thank you for your video
Excellent!
Wow all by yourself. Amazing.
i premark all chalklines on corner trim pieces then chalk top of boards up to 3feet then chaulk bottoms of rows after comes out perfectly straight everytime
Great job! I love Hardie Broad.
Great job! You have pride and passion in your craft well done great video
Our house that we live in; we subcontracted and built a lot of it ourselves over 24 years ago. It is a two story home with brick and Hardie board. Our Hardie board siding still looks and performs great. It takes paint well, and cleans off gently. Many people compliment our siding. It is expensive but worth the money.
Hardie board is cheap compared to everything but vinyl.
Very good video
Good job, thanks for posting this very detailed and useful video.
All that work done in 7:21 wow props 👏🏼 lol
Excellent video! Thank you very much!
Really nice job buddy cheers for the advice 👍
Looks great and you seem to want to do it the right way. Along those lines, I just watched a James Hardie produced video and they contradicted at least two things you did. First they say you MUST reprime the edges of any siding that you cut, which you didn't. And they say NOT to use caulking. Don't shoot me, I'm just the messenger.
Caulk trim, not the butt joint.
They just changed the rules 2 years ago
Very good work!
Nice job 👍
Pretty gloves, wish I had a pair like them lol
Thank you. This helps alot
The siding only goes butted underneath the side trim not underneath?
VERY GOOD JOB!
I like totally liked your video dude
Nice job
Great video thanks
Nice work man.