I have been bending conduit for over 15 years and you are the first person I have ever seen bend it on the floor. I only bend 90s on the floor. Almost everything else with the bender standing up. If you are bending an offset much bigger its not possible to bend on the floor unless you can hand the end of the pipe out a dock door or something. That was also a very strange way to install the box connector. Put it in the box first and put the locknut on hand tight with the screw on the connector facing about 30°s from being tight. Then grab the connector (not locknut) with channel locks and tighten it until its straight. The locknut will grab on the box and keep itself from spinning. I know everyone does things differently. That just looked much more difficult than it had to be.
I'll agree on bending box offsets in the air as opposed to the floor and 90's should definitely be bent on the floor. Basically just box offsets I will bend in the air. For regular offsets, I would definitely bend on the floor as well. It would be required to get it perfectly straight and level. Or maybe its just me, but I much more rely on the level than my eyesight to make offset bends be the correct size. Especially since most of my work is exposed piping. If its pipe thats going above a tile ceiling or in a wall, I honestly dont care so much for it to be precise. But thats not usually the case. At least at my job sites. Side story: When I first started learning, I tried doing bends by eyesight and while standing up and they where always wrong by an inch or more. And thats because bending in the air, the bends will tend to be wider as in a bigger sweep because the pipe is being bent from further back on the shoe rather than by foot pressure like when done on the floor properly. But even floor bending can have a bigger sweep on the bend when not applying proper foot pressure.
One thing I like to do, that I haven't seen mentioned yet in the comments, is use the natural seam on the conduit as a point of reference. You can typically see the clearly when looking on the inside of the conduit, and, depending on the manufacturer you can also see it on the outside. I'll then use a black marker just to make is super easy to see the 180 degree change. This is most helpful if you are putting multiple bends in to the same piece of conduit.
If you have a bunch of them side by side and you need to have consistency, I recommend measuring it. Mark a line at 2.5" and 4.5", and then use the 10° to bend the first mark and use the level on the second.
@@luisdominguez213late af but yes. The numbers are arbitrary. They’re there more so for consistency in aesthetics. As long as your second mark is a bit past your first bend you’ll be fine. But whatever numbers you use always keep it consistent so it doesn’t look like shit.
The 10D is your friend. Glad you put those inch marks, I've been using (more or less) the same for years. It's not in your ugly's book, and nobody ever told me :(
the multiplier for a 10 degree offset is 6. the box offset for a box like that is about 3/8". If you take 6(.375)= 2.25"; this is how far from the first mark you make the first one. Some benders are bad about egging the end, so it's a good practice to come back 2" or 2.5"; some will come back 2.5", but if you are doing a stub for a light box on a concrete ceiling, you may need to keep it as tight as possible and start at 2". Ideal benders, I have found, you can get within a 1/4" from the end, and it won't egg the end. A box offset uses a 10 degree angle. Some people like to eyeball the bend, but if you are trying to make all the offsets look uniform and professional, you should use a pencil and make your marks. It might be a good idea to carry a cheat sheet for fractions to decimals and a calculator to do the math quickly. there are people using apps on their phones, but being on your phone is not going to look good on the job. Some employers want you to keep your phone in your lunch box to check on breaks! I know the Ideal bender has its multiplier and shrink charts for bends. If you start putting more space than the multiplier call for between the first and second mark, your bend is not going to come out right. Anyone remembers this from when they started bending conduit!
Careful putting the bender right at the end of the conduit. You can crush the end of them ("egg it out") a little bit and good luck getting it into a connector after that.
With small conduit, I've never seen it happen. Bigger stuff, sure, but nothing up to 1". Probably 1-¼" even, but I don't do 1-¼" that often, and never box offsets with it as it's almost always on strut.
Man, you sure make that look easy! You'd probably laugh your -- off at me (non-electrician) trying to bend a box offset with 1in. I've wasted so much pipe before I got it right.
thanks. A lot of companies that I have worked for either expect you to already know how to do this or will find you some low skill aspect of their operation. But I used the low skill drudgery to leverage myself in the door of job after job.
You rock, sir. Really. Honestly. I do this type of work and you are not just a master electrician, but a great teacher. Keep doing this thing on RUclips
I can do it so much easier and smoother off of the ground…. And I did about 30 today. So to each their own. I love your videos. Defiantly not hating this is a resource for sure. We all got our ways and that’s for sure.
Find the 10 degree mark on your bender, Bend til the top edge of the conduit lines up right in the middle of the 0, Flip, Repeat. Move on to the next one. 🙂
Use multipliers and measurements... Perfect box offset: 2.5" for the first bend 4 3/4" for the second bend at 10 degrees and you have a perfect box offset. It specially important to measure the distance between bends because all your box offsets will look the exact same!
My journeyman gets mad at me for measuring box offsets. I find it faster that way. Takes longer to tweak. Would rather measure quick and bend it right the first time
Very interesting to see your method using EMT.on my side we use (PLASTIC PVC) electrical conduit with a spring bender inserted inside the pipe to make offset or 90 degree bend. Thanks for sharing D.
WELL....being an Apprentice.. i had to force myself to do them using a regular bender as an experienced Journeyman i worked with had this Greenlee box offset bender and ..man..IT WAS COOL! with that thing i was bendin like i knew what i was doing LOL
Great info for a any worker running pipe. I am curious if you could do a video of procedures tracing all circuits in a panel to update very old panel schedules. What are the tricks of your trade without shutting down active breakers that are being used everyday? Commercial building. I have a couple buildings I need to update. Appreciate you.
Box offsets. Just keep doing them, eventually, you will just make them like tying your shoes. You don’t need to measure the 2”, and shrink back…just bend the first lip, flip it and bend the offset just past the bend of the first bend. If it’s not perfect, that’s fine, you can make it fit with your strapping and box/emt connect. Have pride in your work though, if it’s not up to what you feel in your gut - as safe and good looking, cut it and do it again. Also, the box offset is the only bend I DONT make marks for (line up marks). Finally, practice, practice, practice.
It would be nice if you did a conduit bending course online. I know in my state our College teaches us all about Troubleshooting and fixing electrical machines but they don’t teach conduit bending and installation.
A good pipe bender bends from the ground usually a tell tale sign when people bend from the air they aren’t very good at pipe bending. There are some situations where you have to put a little bend in the pipe in the air before placing it on the ground but you should always start and finish a bend on the ground to be 100% accurate
easy enough and use the same technique myself if i am only doing a few. If you are doing many, the offset bender tools save a lot of time, they are certainly cheap enough and last forever.
Good info. , just a tip, it’s easier to bend it in the air instead of on the ground, it won’t kink it if you do it right and you can actually see how much you’re bending, it’s just a box offset you guys don’t over complicate it 👍🏻
Done it both ways as a beginner (3/4 emt, 1/2 emt, 2 inch IMC with a hydraulic bender). I wouldnt recommend anyone as a beginner to do it in the air. You have to juggle a 10ft pipe or worse a already bent pipe and make sure its level with the rest of the bends. Second of all the bender unless you have an ideal bender with the boot, will most likely slip out of the novices control and slip and either damage the floorspace, send the pipe flying, hurt the person bending, damage property etc etc.
Good video but I have to say this: I install EMT mostly to prevent an NM cable from getting physically damaged and I prefer to do the offset with the bender shoe at belt level and boom. Like an art form with just the right amount of muscle and finesse to get into the knockout.
Well, for what it's worth, I believe that's Dustin's Studio and the wall is just a prop, so the cord isn't going to be closed up in there ... but that doesn't really answer the question why ....
You can do two fingers for first bend then 3 from that radius to next bend, or you can use your proper degree and distance multiplier for better accuracy
Apprentices shall not use the offset benders until they’re fully able to make a box offset with a bender! At least if you’re working under me. Thats the way i came up through the trade.
I always taught old school first, no matter what the trade. That way, when you can't find the fancy tool (or someone else has it on the 3dr floor) you can still get the job done.
I did these I just dod 2 30 degree offsets, mesured, etc. Went to do a few a while back for some data at work and could not keep it from twisting, decided forget it be better for this setup to just use the mini clips that already standoff from the wall.
Nicely done. However I'd usually be using raised saddles to fix the pipe and the seat of the saddle clam would raise it to the level of the knock-out without bending.
I deleted my first comment out of respect for Dustins page. My question is, why would you use any sort of fitting to make your conduit go straight into to conduit instead of just putting a box offset on it? I understand theres jobsites where you have to keep the conduit off the surface for cleaning behind it, food service,etc; but to use Minerelacs and/or any fitting to avoid making a box offset is just lazy and a waste of your Bosses money. The goal isnt how to get your pipe run done without making bends, dude!
@@jeffreyharbert3439 if conduit is the only option, like in Chicago, (even in homes) you have to make use of every bend effectively. If you have an offset, you've now taken away one 90 degree bend, which won't allow you to get to your next box and still follow code. Yes, I know you *can* pull wire through 5, 6 or even 7 90s. But it ain't right.
@@jeffreyharbert3439 My guess is that the box knock-outs are spaced to meet distance saddle held pipe _if that's what you happen to be using._ And no, you wouldn't generally go to the trouble _just to avoid bending offsets._ But there are other reasons one might use them; the two most common being where regulations require a gap for cleaning (which is why they are sometimes referred to as hospital saddles) and where the surface on which you are mounting is uneven. Looking at the installation in my own home done in 1950 there are not many places where the pipe is surface mounted but where it is, yup, they used distance saddles. Sometimes it really is not a case of doing something better or worse but simply differently.
Here in Germany we even have Standards and Laws regarding the bending-radius and the tools you have to use for it. This tool is reeealy cool btw. if you ever want to make a Video comparing your electrical systems to systems in Germany, i could help you with that!
That would be cool. I like seeing what other countries do compared to the US. Some countries do things alot different than we do. Or i guess i could say we do things different. Either way hope he takes u up on that offer.
Off question since your talking EMT! I have a home shop with three phase machines. I have a phase converter. I am a one man shop so I can only run one machine at a time. Right now I have a three phase bus. I will need to rebuild my electrical in 30 days. So it will be inspected. The machines are 240 bolt three phase from converter. Two questions. Does each machine require its own breaker or are three phase bus systems allowed. Second question is what do I do with the wild leg? If you run a single phase sub circuit using wild leg to neutral, your screwed as it’s not supply to neutral but like the square root of 3 times your supply to neutral.
A box offset is a 3/8" offset. Offset multiplier for a 10 degree bend is 6. 3/8" times 6 =2.25" Place a mark 2.25" from the end of the conduit. Bend your first bent at the end of the conduit, spin conduit 180 degrees and make your second bend at your mark. Make these bends up in the air. It is much easier that way. It is also easier on your back. You can also see what you are doing better. Only one mark is needed and all your offsets will be the same. If you are doing concealed conduit work, obviuosly, your bends don't really need look as good. Russ- Journeyman Electrician from Oregon.
40 year + residential Chicago electrician..... I always do my offset bends with the bender head up and not on the floor. just easier to see the degree marks on the bender.
I find the box offset and 90 degree turns easy. The hard ones are the double bend to jump over an existing conduit. Maintaining the straight on 2 bends is my big challenge. I have produced and installed a few wobbly looking jumpovers.
Get your box offset and 90° out of the way first, then make sure your 90° is 100% perfectly plumb or level. Now, but your pipe that you bent in the box connector, line your pipe up EXACTLY where its gonna be strapped, and put a pencil mark dead center on your pipe where you’re crossing over the pipe that’s already on the wall. (The obstruction) and from there, use your math youve been taught. That mark you made is your first bend! 45° using the notch on your bender, followed by your two 22° bends afterwards. Just need to figure out your rise. Your rise is how high your obstruction is.
This is the first time I don't like the way you explain something when it comes to this box offset. The obstruction height for a regular 4S box that you're trying to get into is 3/8 and if we go off the chart a 10° is the six as the multiplier. 3/8 of an inch * 6 = 2 and 1/4 of an inch. That would be your in between to the second Mark for your second bend. The reason why I bring this up is because a lot of people many years in the trade do it that way but never have matching box offsets like it's a lazy way to do it. I just would like to see consistency when it comes to something so simple for me it shows importantance. But great video man keep on making more
No math needed for a box offset. If you’re in a situation where you want numerous box offsets to match, then use math if you need to, or use a box offsetting tool.
@@jeffreyharbert3439 there is math to everything what are you talking about and you just basically repeated the same thing I said when it came to matching conduit. I understand what you're saying when it's simple to 10° bends couple inches apart but the technicality of it is what I'm referring to when it comes to an explanation I really thought he was going to go more in-depth with the video
@@ninmmkmfdm Your fault for expecting a more in-depth video on the art. Why are you so disappointed if you already know what to do? You seem like the typical YT douche locked and loaded to point out any holes in Dustins teachings. If you are, just go away. You’re taking away from the people that want to learn from him.
Brotha, you’re one badass electrician. But I have to explain this a lot…most construction projects have compression connectors, please don’t put your bender at the end. Leave a thumb space before the shoe, it really eggs the conduit. Sorry Dustin, love ya man, but I’m ready to throw it at people sometimes. Thanks for what you do!
Idk, ive always been a 1/4-1/2” from the end of my bender and have never once had an issue. Coupling always snug a a bug. Maybe its your technique? Make its your bender.🤷🏼♂️
Since when do "most" construction projects have compression? Are you doing plenum ceilings? EMT outside? Are your bosses hemorrhaging money and want to just give it to the suppliers, and spend gobs more time completing a project? I've used more threaded couplings than compression.
@@IceBergGeo Alright keyboard cowboy. I brought that up because in many jobs, kinda like 5 million deep it is in the specs that you have to have compression couplings. Screw on tend to damage wire when you’re pulling it and a dude eggs the conduit yoking the screw. I appreciate all of the things Dustin speaks about. If ya wanna be right, I’ll tell ya, I bring this up to do what Dustin is doing, maybe you can learn something. I do every day.
Justin, you rock my dude!! I was just thinking of exactly how do I make my new exposed EMT sit flash with the KO, Boom there you go😎 Quick homeowners Q? Is there a specific height requirement for outlets of 600V or less (dedicated Welding NEMA 6-50R I/A/W Article 630) in a garage or non dwelling area? I’m scrubbing the Codes in prep for making sure I land my receptacle correctly. As you have mentioned NEC 70 is NOT a design manual but a good guide for the way the world works and lives like that other good book, oh yeah, the Bible Cheers Bud! Kevin
I never went looking for the minimum outlet height, but I almost always put those at "bench height" so you can see it when stuff (like the welder itself) is up against the wall.
@@rupe53 Great 👍🏼 Thanks Bud! Readily accessible, nice and easy, as always. I just don’t want to get the inspection done and he/she’s like oh no that’s not XX inches above grade or something!! Doh……. Thanks again Be Safe
@@kevintaylor113 ... btw, worst case is you ask the inspector what they want. I can't seen any reason to mount it low like a regular outlet and I certainly wouldn't go above 5 feet, unless you are in a flood plain.
If you think about what height range outlets are, you'd see that there really is no minimum height for outlets. Heck, think about floor boxes. They're recessed below finished grade. But, the times are changing and standard height for outlets is no longer 12" to center.
Dustin!!! Please do a video or a short video rather on bending 1 1/4” EMT WITH BENDER! Did it today, 3 tries only got 1 usable 90° out of those try’s. Kinked two. Any tips, tricks or simply just the right way to do it would help. Thank you
I'll do my box offset standing up, Just bend the emt under the arm, work smarter not harder, I have the boot on my pipe bender so it won't slip or use my leg.
Something I noticed. You said it doesn’t matter how far back from the first bend you go but that’s incorrect. The farther back you go from your first bend the bigger your offset will be. That’s how the multiplier for any degree of bend works. Now you could always just make the offset bigger and roll it over but now we’re moving into sloppy craftsmanship. Just though I would point that out.
If I can use an offset press, otherwise, practice practice practice. I bend my box offsets in the air. I also like shallow bends. I don't bend doglegs unless I need a dogleg to clear something really weird.
Unrelated to conduit, but which is the preferred method when installing several receptacles in a run, pigtail each one or use the feed through on receptacle?
Pigtail if it's commercial it really is the best because if one recepticle fails the rest on circuit are fine but in residential I see it's pretty much always fed trough the recepticle
Rigid conduit is used in the US also. There's also an IMC (Intermediate Metallic Conduit) that is a little bit thinner walled than rigid conduit, but still can be threaded.
I always make my mark at 2inch and 4 1/4 and bend at 10 degrees for both, that’s my method! Works like a champ every time! Love the videos!
whats the shrinkage?
@@dougfoster445you usually don't have to worry about shrinkage with a 10 degree bend
@@BigNipsOnIce I get it, but still would like to know
@@dougfoster445 1/16" per one inch of obstruction. 3/8 of that 1/16" will be like .0234375 of an inch. So 2.35 hundredths of an inch.
10° box offset bends won't work on 3/4" emt....1/2" emt yes
I have been bending conduit for over 15 years and you are the first person I have ever seen bend it on the floor. I only bend 90s on the floor. Almost everything else with the bender standing up. If you are bending an offset much bigger its not possible to bend on the floor unless you can hand the end of the pipe out a dock door or something.
That was also a very strange way to install the box connector. Put it in the box first and put the locknut on hand tight with the screw on the connector facing about 30°s from being tight. Then grab the connector (not locknut) with channel locks and tighten it until its straight. The locknut will grab on the box and keep itself from spinning.
I know everyone does things differently. That just looked much more difficult than it had to be.
I’ve been bending conduit for less than six months and I would already say the same thing
I do the same trick as you with the connector 😁
Different methods, same result. I also think bending offsets on the floor is too much for the back, imagine doing it for every offset.
I'll agree on bending box offsets in the air as opposed to the floor and 90's should definitely be bent on the floor. Basically just box offsets I will bend in the air. For regular offsets, I would definitely bend on the floor as well. It would be required to get it perfectly straight and level.
Or maybe its just me, but I much more rely on the level than my eyesight to make offset bends be the correct size. Especially since most of my work is exposed piping. If its pipe thats going above a tile ceiling or in a wall, I honestly dont care so much for it to be precise. But thats not usually the case. At least at my job sites.
Side story: When I first started learning, I tried doing bends by eyesight and while standing up and they where always wrong by an inch or more. And thats because bending in the air, the bends will tend to be wider as in a bigger sweep because the pipe is being bent from further back on the shoe rather than by foot pressure like when done on the floor properly. But even floor bending can have a bigger sweep on the bend when not applying proper foot pressure.
@@fjl05 nobody bends 90s in the air
One thing I like to do, that I haven't seen mentioned yet in the comments, is use the natural seam on the conduit as a point of reference.
You can typically see the clearly when looking on the inside of the conduit, and, depending on the manufacturer you can also see it on the outside. I'll then use a black marker just to make is super easy to see the 180 degree change.
This is most helpful if you are putting multiple bends in to the same piece of conduit.
If you have a bunch of them side by side and you need to have consistency, I recommend measuring it. Mark a line at 2.5" and 4.5", and then use the 10° to bend the first mark and use the level on the second.
For what size is that any? Thanks for the numbers btw they help a lot.
@@luisdominguez213late af but yes. The numbers are arbitrary. They’re there more so for consistency in aesthetics. As long as your second mark is a bit past your first bend you’ll be fine. But whatever numbers you use always keep it consistent so it doesn’t look like shit.
The 10D is your friend.
Glad you put those inch marks, I've been using (more or less) the same for years.
It's not in your ugly's book, and nobody ever told me :(
the multiplier for a 10 degree offset is 6. the box offset for a box like that is about 3/8". If you take 6(.375)= 2.25"; this is how far from the first mark you make the first one. Some benders are bad about egging the end, so it's a good practice to come back 2" or 2.5"; some will come back 2.5", but if you are doing a stub for a light box on a concrete ceiling, you may need to keep it as tight as possible and start at 2". Ideal benders, I have found, you can get within a 1/4" from the end, and it won't egg the end. A box offset uses a 10 degree angle. Some people like to eyeball the bend, but if you are trying to make all the offsets look uniform and professional, you should use a pencil and make your marks. It might be a good idea to carry a cheat sheet for fractions to decimals and a calculator to do the math quickly. there are people using apps on their phones, but being on your phone is not going to look good on the job. Some employers want you to keep your phone in your lunch box to check on breaks! I know the Ideal bender has its multiplier and shrink charts for bends. If you start putting more space than the multiplier call for between the first and second mark, your bend is not going to come out right. Anyone remembers this from when they started bending conduit!
Careful putting the bender right at the end of the conduit. You can crush the end of them ("egg it out") a little bit and good luck getting it into a connector after that.
With small conduit, I've never seen it happen. Bigger stuff, sure, but nothing up to 1". Probably 1-¼" even, but I don't do 1-¼" that often, and never box offsets with it as it's almost always on strut.
It’s always best to leave a little out
Man, you sure make that look easy! You'd probably laugh your -- off at me (non-electrician) trying to bend a box offset with 1in. I've wasted so much pipe before I got it right.
thanks. A lot of companies that I have worked for either expect you to already know how to do this or will find you some low skill aspect of their operation. But I used the low skill drudgery to leverage myself in the door of job after job.
You rock, sir. Really. Honestly. I do this type of work and you are not just a master electrician, but a great teacher. Keep doing this thing on RUclips
I can do it so much easier and smoother off of the ground…. And I did about 30 today. So to each their own. I love your videos. Defiantly not hating this is a resource for sure. We all got our ways and that’s for sure.
Find the 10 degree mark on your bender, Bend til the top edge of the conduit lines up right in the middle of the 0, Flip, Repeat. Move on to the next one. 🙂
The middle of the zero..gonna give that a shot shortly. 3 1/4" spacing?
@@robertmilkshake1013 maybe just a Hair shy of dead center
Use multipliers and measurements... Perfect box offset: 2.5" for the first bend 4 3/4" for the second bend at 10 degrees and you have a perfect box offset. It specially important to measure the distance between bends because all your box offsets will look the exact same!
What’s your distance between the bends?
@@reyder7661 2.25"
U are correct I leave 2.5 between those at 10 degrees
@@gus732 A box offset is a 3/8" offset. If you use your multiplier for 10 degrees,
3/8" x 6 =2.25"
My journeyman gets mad at me for measuring box offsets. I find it faster that way. Takes longer to tweak. Would rather measure quick and bend it right the first time
I was taught to always measure 4" and 7" from end so that all box offsets are identical. Saying that I do like the way you showed it.
I've never bent an offset on the floor....always in the air and usually using the 10 deg marks
Same here :)
Works great if you have a 20' ceiling, otherwise good luck dodging light fixtures or acoustical tile etc.
@@charlesford157 if your running large spans of conduit, chances are there aren't any ceilings yet.
@@purenupe1 That is certainly true. That and have fun trying to bend a 12" offset in a piece of 1-1/4 off the ground.
@@charlesford157 I give you that, 1.25 is going to be tough in any situation.
What a crazy way to put the connector in!
10 degrees over hand, flip chock up pull level. Done!
Conn. goes in box first!
I do commercial hvac and have always wondered how they perfectly bend that. Great video!
Very interesting to see your method using EMT.on my side we use (PLASTIC PVC) electrical conduit with a spring bender inserted inside the pipe to make offset or 90 degree bend. Thanks for sharing D.
'well explained - gonna see what else you have posted
'camera man and editing dept.
gets an A+ 'thanks
WELL....being an Apprentice.. i had to force myself to do them using a regular bender as an experienced Journeyman i worked with had this Greenlee box offset bender and ..man..IT WAS COOL! with that thing i was bendin like i knew what i was doing LOL
Great info for a any worker running pipe. I am curious if you could do a video of procedures tracing all circuits in a panel to update very old panel schedules. What are the tricks of your trade without shutting down active breakers that are being used everyday? Commercial building. I have a couple buildings I need to update. Appreciate you.
Faster and Easier to bend box offsets standing up. Also easier to line it up for preventing doggleggs.
except with full sticks of 3/4 or larger can be more difficult especially when you dont have a good open place to bend
I’d say up to 1” it gets difficult atleast for me
That's a pretty simple trick, and it does take finesse; it looks like I always used an offset connector.
Just make a mark at 2" then come back 4 and make a mark at 6". Then just give it a lil baby tweek both ways and bam!!! Perfect every time!!
I'm starting my electrician course this summer. I find your videos very informative. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Dont listen to this clown who has obviously spent minimal time in the field.
Box offsets. Just keep doing them, eventually, you will just make them like tying your shoes. You don’t need to measure the 2”, and shrink back…just bend the first lip, flip it and bend the offset just past the bend of the first bend. If it’s not perfect, that’s fine, you can make it fit with your strapping and box/emt connect.
Have pride in your work though, if it’s not up to what you feel in your gut - as safe and good looking, cut it and do it again. Also, the box offset is the only bend I DONT make marks for (line up marks).
Finally, practice, practice, practice.
thanks for sharing.
It would be nice if you did a conduit bending course online. I know in my state our College teaches us all about Troubleshooting and fixing electrical machines but they don’t teach conduit bending and installation.
The little kicker is the bender that makes perfect box sets
I want to thank the lowes guys for teaching me how to do a perfect box offset! 🙏🏽 😂
A good pipe bender bends from the ground usually a tell tale sign when people bend from the air they aren’t very good at pipe bending. There are some situations where you have to put a little bend in the pipe in the air before placing it on the ground but you should always start and finish a bend on the ground to be 100% accurate
Lmao what a load of shit
easy enough and use the same technique myself if i am only doing a few. If you are doing many, the offset bender tools save a lot of time, they are certainly cheap enough and last forever.
Good info. , just a tip, it’s easier to bend it in the air instead of on the ground, it won’t kink it if you do it right and you can actually see how much you’re bending, it’s just a box offset you guys don’t over complicate it 👍🏻
Done it both ways as a beginner (3/4 emt, 1/2 emt, 2 inch IMC with a hydraulic bender). I wouldnt recommend anyone as a beginner to do it in the air. You have to juggle a 10ft pipe or worse a already bent pipe and make sure its level with the rest of the bends. Second of all the bender unless you have an ideal bender with the boot, will most likely slip out of the novices control and slip and either damage the floorspace, send the pipe flying, hurt the person bending, damage property etc etc.
4:00 channel locks work great for that. The baby 6” ones are perfect for the lock nut or the big ones for turning the connector.
yeah i use channel locks for box connectors
I got a Greenly kicker perfect every time
Good video but I have to say this: I install EMT mostly to prevent an NM cable from getting physically damaged and I prefer to do the offset with the bender shoe at belt level and boom. Like an art form with just the right amount of muscle and finesse to get into the knockout.
Nice but what is the extension cord doing in wall?
Well, for what it's worth, I believe that's Dustin's Studio and the wall is just a prop, so the cord isn't going to be closed up in there ... but that doesn't really answer the question why ....
Great video Dustin keep them coming!!!
Awesomeness!!
Thank you.. Do some saddle bending please :)
He doesn’t know how. Thats why he hasnt done a video on it.😉
So simple yet so important
You can do two fingers for first bend then 3 from that radius to next bend, or you can use your proper degree and distance multiplier for better accuracy
I am a GRID kinda guy!!!Kool lesson !!!
Apprentices shall not use the offset benders until they’re fully able to make a box offset with a bender! At least if you’re working under me. Thats the way i came up through the trade.
I always taught old school first, no matter what the trade. That way, when you can't find the fancy tool (or someone else has it on the 3dr floor) you can still get the job done.
Cool, video. I would have to try it your way sometime. I was learning this today. Was shown this a little different.
I did these I just dod 2 30 degree offsets, mesured, etc. Went to do a few a while back for some data at work and could not keep it from twisting, decided forget it be better for this setup to just use the mini clips that already standoff from the wall.
Nicely done. However I'd usually be using raised saddles to fix the pipe and the seat of the saddle clam would raise it to the level of the knock-out without bending.
Huh?
I deleted my first comment out of respect for Dustins page. My question is, why would you use any sort of fitting to make your conduit go straight into to conduit instead of just putting a box offset on it? I understand theres jobsites where you have to keep the conduit off the surface for cleaning behind it, food service,etc; but to use Minerelacs and/or any fitting to avoid making a box offset is just lazy and a waste of your Bosses money. The goal isnt how to get your pipe run done without making bends, dude!
@@jeffreyharbert3439 if conduit is the only option, like in Chicago, (even in homes) you have to make use of every bend effectively. If you have an offset, you've now taken away one 90 degree bend, which won't allow you to get to your next box and still follow code. Yes, I know you *can* pull wire through 5, 6 or even 7 90s. But it ain't right.
@@jeffreyharbert3439 My guess is that the box knock-outs are spaced to meet distance saddle held pipe _if that's what you happen to be using._ And no, you wouldn't generally go to the trouble _just to avoid bending offsets._
But there are other reasons one might use them; the two most common being where regulations require a gap for cleaning (which is why they are sometimes referred to as hospital saddles) and where the surface on which you are mounting is uneven.
Looking at the installation in my own home done in 1950 there are not many places where the pipe is surface mounted but where it is, yup, they used distance saddles.
Sometimes it really is not a case of doing something better or worse but simply differently.
I do 8-8.5 box ofsets standing up. I only do 90s on the floor and 90s with kicks 🤟🤙
Here in Germany we even have Standards and Laws regarding the bending-radius and the tools you have to use for it. This tool is reeealy cool btw. if you ever want to make a Video comparing your electrical systems to systems in Germany, i could help you with that!
That would be cool. I like seeing what other countries do compared to the US. Some countries do things alot different than we do. Or i guess i could say we do things different. Either way hope he takes u up on that offer.
@@robavis4906 Yeah, we have some quite different things over here :D
Love the content man! I’d love to see you get that tattoo finished too though lol
Awesome video, straight to the point
What kind tool bags are those?
If I saw someone doing a box offset on the ground, I'd immediately think "new guy, probably"...or someone wasting time 😅
Why is it a waste of time?
Because he is an elitist and thinks his way is the only correct way.
@@nazgullinux6601 exactly. Because if you need to do a fking box offset on the ground, get tf out the trade or learn to use a pencil...
Dumbest comment i ever read
So make a video showing us the "correct way" Mr. My way is the only way.
I tell all my apprentices to use their reamer for tightening set screw. Sits on screw perfectly without slipping also a square head is just as good.
Bend it like Dustin! 😜
Your the best bro
Very unique video.
Thank you.
I put my first mark at 2" second mark 2 7/8 " bend at 10 ° works perfect I use a pencil for my marks
I use the 1/2 inch wrench to tighten the lock nut works every time
I like how you took out your klien screwdriver and remembered it was a milwaukee vid so you got your milwauker out lol
Off question since your talking EMT! I have a home shop with three phase machines. I have a phase converter. I am a one man shop so I can only run one machine at a time. Right now I have a three phase bus. I will need to rebuild my electrical in 30 days. So it will be inspected. The machines are 240 bolt three phase from converter. Two questions. Does each machine require its own breaker or are three phase bus systems allowed. Second question is what do I do with the wild leg? If you run a single phase sub circuit using wild leg to neutral, your screwed as it’s not supply to neutral but like the square root of 3 times your supply to neutral.
How do you plan on pulling a permit?
You gotta do a video of different benders! I've always had Ideal or Klein but dang it I would love to have the Milwaukee benders. 🤪
A box offset is a 3/8" offset. Offset multiplier for a 10 degree bend is 6. 3/8" times 6 =2.25" Place a mark 2.25" from the end of the conduit. Bend your first bent at the end of the conduit, spin conduit 180 degrees and make your second bend at your mark. Make these bends up in the air. It is much easier that way. It is also easier on your back. You can also see what you are doing better. Only one mark is needed and all your offsets will be the same. If you are doing concealed conduit work, obviuosly, your bends don't really need look as good. Russ- Journeyman Electrician from Oregon.
How do you maintain the 2.25" distance between bends if you dont even bend both your bends at the same mark on your bender?
40 year + residential Chicago electrician..... I always do my offset bends with the bender head up and not on the floor. just easier to see the degree marks on the bender.
I dunno mann… I trust Corey from Lowes technique better
😂
I find the box offset and 90 degree turns easy. The hard ones are the double bend to jump over an existing conduit. Maintaining the straight on 2 bends is my big challenge. I have produced and installed a few wobbly looking jumpovers.
in my experience, all the EMT has straight lines running the length of the conduit. barely visible, but you just pick 1 and use it as a guide
Get your box offset and 90° out of the way first, then make sure your 90° is 100% perfectly plumb or level. Now, but your pipe that you bent in the box connector, line your pipe up EXACTLY where its gonna be strapped, and put a pencil mark dead center on your pipe where you’re crossing over the pipe that’s already on the wall. (The obstruction) and from there, use your math youve been taught. That mark you made is your first bend! 45° using the notch on your bender, followed by your two 22° bends afterwards. Just need to figure out your rise. Your rise is how high your obstruction is.
@@jeffreyharbert3439 what about your shrink?
Do a special on your bags the look awesome.
Bow and go baby
First mark at 2" second 4",1/4 10 degree and boom that's the best box offset
I was waiting for you to slide it over and find out the part of the floor you were on wasnt level
This is the first time I don't like the way you explain something when it comes to this box offset.
The obstruction height for a regular 4S box that you're trying to get into is 3/8 and if we go off the chart a 10° is the six as the multiplier. 3/8 of an inch * 6 = 2 and 1/4 of an inch. That would be your in between to the second Mark for your second bend.
The reason why I bring this up is because a lot of people many years in the trade do it that way but never have matching box offsets like it's a lazy way to do it. I just would like to see consistency when it comes to something so simple for me it shows importantance. But great video man keep on making more
No math needed for a box offset. If you’re in a situation where you want numerous box offsets to match, then use math if you need to, or use a box offsetting tool.
@@jeffreyharbert3439 there is math to everything what are you talking about and you just basically repeated the same thing I said when it came to matching conduit. I understand what you're saying when it's simple to 10° bends couple inches apart but the technicality of it is what I'm referring to when it comes to an explanation I really thought he was going to go more in-depth with the video
@@ninmmkmfdm I said theres no math needed. Relax,Einstein
@@ninmmkmfdm Your fault for expecting a more in-depth video on the art. Why are you so disappointed if you already know what to do? You seem like the typical YT douche locked and loaded to point out any holes in Dustins teachings. If you are, just go away. You’re taking away from the people that want to learn from him.
@@jeffreyharbert3439 good one buddy. You got me there.
This is a nice video... Thank u...
Klein has a 1/2 and 3/4 lock nut tool that excepts a 3/8 drive
where can I get that jacket, drop the link to merch
Always leave atleast a quarter inch of pipe out of the shoe so we don’t egg the pipe out of round
Brotha, you’re one badass electrician. But I have to explain this a lot…most construction projects have compression connectors, please don’t put your bender at the end. Leave a thumb space before the shoe, it really eggs the conduit. Sorry Dustin, love ya man, but I’m ready to throw it at people sometimes. Thanks for what you do!
Yeah, I was trained to use two finger space
Idk, ive always been a 1/4-1/2” from the end of my bender and have never once had an issue. Coupling always snug a a bug. Maybe its your technique? Make its your bender.🤷🏼♂️
I might add, thats when i need a super tight stub.
Since when do "most" construction projects have compression? Are you doing plenum ceilings? EMT outside? Are your bosses hemorrhaging money and want to just give it to the suppliers, and spend gobs more time completing a project?
I've used more threaded couplings than compression.
@@IceBergGeo Alright keyboard cowboy. I brought that up because in many jobs, kinda like 5 million deep it is in the specs that you have to have compression couplings. Screw on tend to damage wire when you’re pulling it and a dude eggs the conduit yoking the screw. I appreciate all of the things Dustin speaks about. If ya wanna be right, I’ll tell ya, I bring this up to do what Dustin is doing, maybe you can learn something. I do every day.
Justin, you rock my dude!! I was just thinking of exactly how do I make my new exposed EMT sit flash with the KO, Boom there you go😎
Quick homeowners Q? Is there a specific height requirement for outlets of 600V or less (dedicated Welding NEMA 6-50R I/A/W Article 630) in a garage or non dwelling area? I’m scrubbing the Codes in prep for making sure I land my receptacle correctly. As you have mentioned NEC 70 is NOT a design manual but a good guide for the way the world works and lives like that other good book, oh yeah, the Bible
Cheers Bud!
Kevin
I never went looking for the minimum outlet height, but I almost always put those at "bench height" so you can see it when stuff (like the welder itself) is up against the wall.
@@rupe53 Great 👍🏼 Thanks Bud! Readily accessible, nice and easy, as always. I just don’t want to get the inspection done and he/she’s like oh no that’s not XX inches above grade or something!! Doh…….
Thanks again
Be Safe
@@kevintaylor113 ... btw, worst case is you ask the inspector what they want. I can't seen any reason to mount it low like a regular outlet and I certainly wouldn't go above 5 feet, unless you are in a flood plain.
If you think about what height range outlets are, you'd see that there really is no minimum height for outlets. Heck, think about floor boxes. They're recessed below finished grade. But, the times are changing and standard height for outlets is no longer 12" to center.
Dustin!!! Please do a video or a short video rather on bending 1 1/4” EMT WITH BENDER! Did it today, 3 tries only got 1 usable 90° out of those try’s. Kinked two. Any tips, tricks or simply just the right way to do it would help. Thank you
I use Greenlee 1841 or an 1842 kicker!
So what pouch system do you use? Saw your review on the Diamondback, did you have a change of heart?
Good to learn
Have you done site lighting?
You made that look easy lol
I'll do my box offset standing up, Just bend the emt under the arm, work smarter not harder, I have the boot on my pipe bender so it won't slip or use my leg.
Cowboy Cerrones doppelgänger 🤠
thanks sir.
Hmm never seen someone bend a box offset on the ground, think ill stick to standing up the pro way.
Something I noticed. You said it doesn’t matter how far back from the first bend you go but that’s incorrect. The farther back you go from your first bend the bigger your offset will be. That’s how the multiplier for any degree of bend works. Now you could always just make the offset bigger and roll it over but now we’re moving into sloppy craftsmanship. Just though I would point that out.
What kind of tool belt is that
If I can use an offset press, otherwise, practice practice practice. I bend my box offsets in the air. I also like shallow bends. I don't bend doglegs unless I need a dogleg to clear something really weird.
I want to see you bending some large conduit. 2-4" Rigid.
Different kind of bender. Apples and oranges.
@@jordancameron4441 that’s fine. I just want to see it….
Unrelated to conduit, but which is the preferred method when installing several receptacles in a run, pigtail each one or use the feed through on receptacle?
Pigtail if it's commercial it really is the best because if one recepticle fails the rest on circuit are fine but in residential I see it's pretty much always fed trough the recepticle
Waddup EU CRU 🤙⚡
Google translates this to 'Waddup ME RAW' lmao, wild night?
What boots are you wearing in this vid bro?
Are you a commercial or residential electrician?
Any suggestions on how to fix a dogleg ?
do it in the air go back 2" then another 2 1/4 ( 4 1/4 end of pipe) bend to 10° ...profit
emt looks like easy work compared to the rigid conduit we use in Ireland.
Rigid conduit is used in the US also. There's also an IMC (Intermediate Metallic Conduit) that is a little bit thinner walled than rigid conduit, but still can be threaded.
Radial or Chordal offset? ;)
What kind of monster, puts the conn. on the pipe befor the box??
Just buy a stub out. Bill em'! 💪