Making a Crankbait, A step-by-step crankbait build (part 1)
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- Опубликовано: 4 авг 2020
- If you're new to lure making or just love a detailed process for making a crankbait, I think you will find this video helpful. I go through the entire, design, draw, engineer, build and test processes. I even give you a unique lure designing method where, if you can draw semicircles, you will draw professional looking lures. #lures #luremaking #lurepainting #woodlure
I'm still editing part 2 of this crankbait build so I thought I would include a short segment on questions from part 1. I have a couple that I want to talk about already but if you have something you would like me to clarify in part 2, this is a good time to ask the questions here. You can also ask your question on the Engineered Angler Facebook page.
I really love your approach to making lure making.
Something is up with your mic. In the video. ( while wearing headphones the sound keeps going out of the left channel )
Has anyone ever said you are “a man of many decades”? Your voice is of a younger man, your face is of a man in in his prime, and your hands are of a man in his late 70’s.
Love you sharing your knowledge. I could watch these videos all day. Between you and Marling Baits, you guys are my favorite channels.
I know I had some sound issues in a couple of vids but they're corrected with the new sound gear. I've been surfing for 45 years...the sun can do a number on your skin...never thought about sunscreen for the back of my hands. Still surfing though
That’s the calculation I needed for suspending lures. I think I get it now. Weight of lure, divided by wood density gives me the total weight the lure needs to be to be neutrally buoyant.
Thank you for all the great details. I can’t say enough how valuable this information is to me and the amount of time/frustration you’re saving me.
Now, for the lakes to thaw so I can test my prototypes out.
Glad it helped! Hope you get an early thaw.
Wow, thank you explaining how to calculate the buoyancy force! This was driving me crazy. Thanks to your help I was able to make a glide bait the had a perfect fall rate. You should do a video dedicated to this principle. Understanding this calculation, in combination with a mass calculator for the lead cylinder, has helped me more than any tool I could buy. Thanks!
Is so happy to hear I've been a help to fellow lure makers. Cheers!
Dude- You leave us in suspense like a typical fishing channel going into tv commercials. Lol. Cant wait till part 2 and final outcome. 👍. Truly Fun-to-Watch.
Thanks man...I don't really like doing the cheesy cliff hanger thing, that's why I included some shots of the final product. I'm glad you find it interesting enough to sit through bro. I figured you'd be snoring halfway through...
Going to make this for my husband. Thank u for ur tutorial and well detailed explanation. My wishes to u always
All the best Good luck with the project. Cheers.
@@EngineeredAnglerThank u. We started already. eager to see result😍😍
@@EngineeredAngler yeah i made it. The final result was amazing. Credit goes to u. thank you
I caught that pun....”out on a limb”.....very funny.
🤓
Your explanation makes the construction procedure very friendly for us to make our own. Just waiting for part 2. Thanks for the video.
Glad it was helpful!
Can’t wait to see the final results. But I already know it’s gonna swim like an Olympic gold medalists! Great job!
Nice 👍 looking forward to the next part
Thanks 👍
Please designó a yozuri Crystal Minnow or fly Minnow. Are very pretty lures
Dear EA,
I‘m really enjoying to watch your videos! Thanks for all your knowledge you share with us!
Please give me an answer about this lure. I‘m not shure about the position of the lip, the eye and the rattle-chamber.
Could you give me some tips about positioning, please?
Greetings from Germany,
Jan
I really like the reverse drill trick. Will definitely use that one!
Glad you like it, works really well, especially on softer wood.
Looks good. I'll have to re-watch the first bit a few times to get my head around the inches, if only everyone used metric! Keep up the good work
No kidding...metric is so much easier! But after a lifetime of working with the old system, its second nature now.
Love the videos.
Thank you.
👍👍👍
Dear EA, thank you very much again for all of the educative detailed videos. I have a request if you may consider. Suppose that we have some branded or unbranded plastic lure. How can we disassemble it and make a copy of it? I could split one of the lures at home into two parts by heating a razor blade and cutting them from the glued seam lines. Then, it became ready for a silicone mold and resin pouring. I just wonder if it is possible to split a lure into two parts from seam line by using some glue dissolving liquids? Thank you for sharing your experience.
looking good!
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi Frank, sometimes ago You made a Video about adjusting density of PUR by adding several amounts of microballoons. As I cannot find it can You post the link? Thanks a lot !
ruclips.net/video/bYHKDd06s-s/видео.html
Thank you very much for a great Video. What are the dimensions of the bib?
1.5 x .75 inches
Nice. I've found it to be less risky to cut the bill angle while doing the initial cut, because for me at least, I find it difficult to try and cut after the chanfer lines and sanding it gets real finicky to keep that saw blade straight for me. I prefer to use a jig too. Looks like your method works well for you, turned out nice!
You're absolutely right it's best to do as much as you can while you still have a rectangular piece of wood. I got in a hurry and was unhappy with the angle I initially drew so I plowed forward and cut the slot after shaping. But, I took a big risk doing that.
Yet again a brill vid
Really liked the first part of the vid were you did the drawings for the lure
🤔🤔🤔🤔
Cud make for a very gud video for the beginner showing we’re you start with your drawings ie how you calculate your radius etc 👍👍
Thank you...
"There's a lot of 16ths in this lure". Yes, that's why I'm glad I use metric!
Where's my flame suit...
great video! Question for you; When you apply adhesive to attach the two halves, do you allow extra space around the rattle area, to avoid the squeeze-out from reaching the bearings?
Yes I do! That is super critical. Sometimes I have to pull it apart and clean up a bit if I miscalculate.
Good video but the sound quality was poor in spots.
Sorry for that...Just got some new sound gear so things should improve on the next. Thanks for the input and for watching.
As an individual who has always been curious as to "how does ______ work?", I've greatly appreciated this, and your other videos. Out of curiosity, have you ever tested the relative strength (e.g., to hold an screw eye) of different micro-balloon to resin ratios? Logically, it feels like the higher the balloon to resin ratio gets, the less holding power it has because the material is less dense.
Your logic is sound...shear strength is the deciding factor. I've tested the ratios that I use with good results, but I have not tested at extreme limits. If you are concerned my advice is to embed the screw eye in resin by drilling a larger hole and filling with 2 part resin adhesive.
@@EngineeredAngler Thanks for the tip! I'm building small (e.g., 3" overall length) jointed swimbaits (just for me and some fishing friends) and that currently is the weakest link. I molded the two halves of the swimbait separately and am flirting with trying some through-wire construction that I could either mold into the lure and join the two halves later, or simply mold it such that everything would be "pre-drilled" and then do a through wire approach. Thanks again for the great videos and ideas!
Just use a round over bit on a router table
I'm trying to keep the tools and techniques as accessible as possible. Not every one has a router table. But that's a quick way to get the first part of rounding it over.
A little sketchy trying to work such a small piece of wood on a router of any sort. A belt sander is a little more forgiving. You don’t want to lose your thumbs!
what about moisture content in the wood you use. Is it important? Is there an ideal range?
Most of the wood I use is lumber yard wood and moisture is not an issue. If you're using wood you harvested, like I do for lathe work, I find that if the wood has the right dryness to lathe well it will usually behave well with paint and clear coat.
What was the ruler looking Thing you used to measure the depth of the hole for the rattles? It was like a metal T. I want one :)
www.sturdy-tools.com/depth-angle-gauge/
Engineered Angler thank you as always!
Always love your vids as usual. I've got a son in law who's a mechanical engineer. He's always looking for the 64th inch rule in my shop. Very left brained but it certainly works for his line of work. But, I sometime drive him nuts. I hand sketch a lure on some paper, cut it out and trace it onto wood. From then on it's all by eye. The only ruler I use is to make an initial line for the length of the bait before sketching. All of this would drive me nuts!
ruclips.net/p/PLWKzAiZiwcgKvg8lGAz-G_8Ul0oiE_BIi
Truth be told, I love "free building" a lure, from freehand sketch to shaping and the rest. I do it quite a bit for my own satisfaction. But if I hit upon one I really want to make exact copies of, that's when the engineer comes out. In my videos I try to offer techniques that anyone with a calculator and some simple hand tools can follow, and get a nice result. Thanks a lot for watching and the thoughtful comment. Cheers.
@@EngineeredAngler It comes with experience, but there's not many worse things than finding out lure you've worked on doesn't work.
But losing working lure with first cast is worse. Happened to me twice recently.
I try to give information that is founded in physics so that as we design our lures we are not just shooting in the dark and hoping for a working lure...thank you for your feed back and being engaged with the channel. Cheers.
Where do you get your bill material?
I've been buying from lure parts online. www.lurepartsonline.com
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