This was super useful as a reference, I made the mistake of spilling Dr. Pepper on mine and the right mouse click started feeling really stuck and spongy. This was the best teardown reference I had to keep track of stuff while I opened it up and cleaned it out, got it back to like new thanks to this!
Funniest thing about u talking about taking the scroll wheel apart is that all I had to do was just slam it extra hard on my desk and it came apart but with a little push I was able to put it back in place
During the video you stated that the left side buttons are "built into it", is there any chance at removing them? I am finding it hard to hit all 12 buttons accurately, especially the middle ones. so was thinking of removing the 4 middle bottom ones to give a place for my thumb to rest with some grip tape over the holes left behind. I was watching this video to see if that is possible.
I really love my aerox 9, macro software could be better like bloody but meh, 12 buttons and light mouse. The only thing i hate is it's impossible to clean inside, they should've implemented transparent stuff under the holes, i consistently blow-dryer with cold settings but not enough. Edit:I didn't notice at the first look but they should really really pay this guy lol. This video is the best video that any mouse could get, he measured everything omg
I'm surprised this is much easier to open than the 5, but that's quite a lot of glue haha. It seems like the diffuser and maybe some screws would be the best things to remove to lower weight while still keeping a relatively stock appearance?
i just bought one of these mice, im considering 3d printing a new right side panel. I cannot for the life of me get a good grip on this mouse. my hand keeps slipping off if pick it up.
same here it needs like the extra right side support like other mmo mouse. also i feel like the back is unusually long so its hard to reach the front buttons. are there any 3rd party 3d printed shells for it out there to buy?
My scroll wheel all of a sudden became extremely loud and hollow sounding one day. Anyway to remove whatever the tactile mechanism is that's causing the noise?
Wheel on my Aerox 9, after 8 months of use, first started to scroll screen content in random directions, when scrolling the wheel in one direction, and now wheel started to squeak like crazy. I started searching tear down guides in hopes to fix the issues with the encoder and the wheel, but looking on ho the mouse is put together (an no-name switches used) all I can say - bye-bye, SteelSeries, I never going to buy shit from you again.
@@Zuneg I agree. I've gone through three at this point. The first one's side buttons quit on me after about a year of use. Warranty had just expired, so I just bought a new one, and "returned" it with the old one in the box. New one's mouse wheel had the exact issue you described, right out of the box. So, I did that same process a second time to get the **third** mouse, and a couple weeks in, here I am again. I felt morally unjust at first for the false return, but then I read the horror stories about their customer support. Now I sit here still screwed over defeated, but at the very least confident that this was the first and last product I'll buy from them.
The scroll wheel encoder mechanism is a really bad design on these models. I have Aerox 5 & 9 and both get a jumpy scroll. By that I mean when I scroll up it goes down slightly and when I go down it goes up slightly each time. Worthless with FPS and weapon changing, can't rely on it. The only thing I can do to fix it for a little bit is spraying or blowing air into the left click side to get whatever gets clogged up. Complete garbage design, would not recommend.
I returned on warranty for the scroll jump. Got a new one but have now a new issue where whenever I press num1, it also tries to press Num2 and Num3. Same occurs for 4, 7 and 10. Queried again, hoping for a full refund.
Indeed it is. We've had four of these, all have scroll wheel jumping in the wrong direction. As far as I no, there has been no attempts to improve it. Steelseries L
I would love to get a metal version of the main part of the mouse, the plastic just seems very cheap and fragile besides that I like this mouse very much
Great video, wish I had found this video before I purchased. The soldering on the TTC means disassembling for cleaning is not a quick fix. Got a jumpy scroll wheel 4 months into a new mouse 😢
I am sorry but I am just laughing really hard every time this man puts random components on the scale. Jeez I can't believe these screws weigh so much. If only they put 1 less 0.15 gram screw in the mouse then I could have won that game. I can't believe you didn't weight all the glue used on those connectors. All that probably adds up to 0.25 grams. I am laughing at the idea not at the guy for filming it, that level of detail while doing a review is really nice. I just personally do not care about mouse weight that much. If it was up to me logitech would sell a g604 v2 that had the swappable side plates of the razer naga pro with a slightly different grip and the weight could be 90-140 grams I honestly wouldn't even really notice. I miss the scroll wheel lock deature on the g604. Being able to unlock the scrollwheel into free spin is such a nice feature.
I prefer lighter mice tbf, but I agree in thinking all the min-maxing for it is so silly. Like you have people talking about a mouse being better because its 5 grams lighter like its not that big of a deal
@squeamishh6719 for sure. Weight matters especially for high level gaming but 98% of gamers it won't really help. Personally I like the extra weight but I get why some like super light. I just wish the market was more diverse instead of just focusing on weight.
can i put the skid pads back after or no
I wonder if the glue is for the water resistance rating?
these videos are so well put together
thanks man appreciate the feedback and glad you like the content/quality
This was super useful as a reference, I made the mistake of spilling Dr. Pepper on mine and the right mouse click started feeling really stuck and spongy. This was the best teardown reference I had to keep track of stuff while I opened it up and cleaned it out, got it back to like new thanks to this!
Funniest thing about u talking about taking the scroll wheel apart is that all I had to do was just slam it extra hard on my desk and it came apart but with a little push I was able to put it back in place
This works
any chance on steel series rival 3 wireless weight reduction mod?
With 3d printed one battery chamber
Thanks, taking it apart and putting it back together a few days later fixed the water damage.
During the video you stated that the left side buttons are "built into it", is there any chance at removing them? I am finding it hard to hit all 12 buttons accurately, especially the middle ones. so was thinking of removing the 4 middle bottom ones to give a place for my thumb to rest with some grip tape over the holes left behind. I was watching this video to see if that is possible.
I really love my aerox 9, macro software could be better like bloody but meh, 12 buttons and light mouse. The only thing i hate is it's impossible to clean inside, they should've implemented transparent stuff under the holes, i consistently blow-dryer with cold settings but not enough.
Edit:I didn't notice at the first look but they should really really pay this guy lol. This video is the best video that any mouse could get, he measured everything omg
Can you tell me the type/model of these micro switches on the left side? (1-12) Alternatively, the dimensions. (A replacement is also acceptable)
I'm surprised this is much easier to open than the 5, but that's quite a lot of glue haha. It seems like the diffuser and maybe some screws would be the best things to remove to lower weight while still keeping a relatively stock appearance?
is it possible to switch the switches with better ones?
You can solder yourself, so if you can solder yes
Nice video! Been an avid user of the Aerox 9 since it dropped. Seeing this I wish there was some replacements available for that dialpad.
I have a funny feeling its not glue but some water proofing to cover those connection joints that makes the mouse ip54 rated
Are the switches being solder? or can we just pull it off, like asus chakram mouse....???
Solder
Could you make a teardown/weight mod video on the Delux m700 ?
I'll add it to the list
@@Beardedbob Thanks!
@@Beardedbob make sure to get the PMW 3389 version
i just bought one of these mice, im considering 3d printing a new right side panel.
I cannot for the life of me get a good grip on this mouse. my hand keeps slipping off if pick it up.
same here it needs like the extra right side support like other mmo mouse. also i feel like the back is unusually long so its hard to reach the front buttons. are there any 3rd party 3d printed shells for it out there to buy?
Did you ever design a right plate? I'd love to see it if so. I def need more of an indentation for better grip.
@@CruJones I did not. I ended up using small strips of grip tape where I needed them. The mouse feels natural to use now, almost a year later.
My scroll wheel all of a sudden became extremely loud and hollow sounding one day. Anyway to remove whatever the tactile mechanism is that's causing the noise?
Wheel on my Aerox 9, after 8 months of use, first started to scroll screen content in random directions, when scrolling the wheel in one direction, and now wheel started to squeak like crazy. I started searching tear down guides in hopes to fix the issues with the encoder and the wheel, but looking on ho the mouse is put together (an no-name switches used) all I can say - bye-bye, SteelSeries, I never going to buy shit from you again.
@@Zuneg I agree. I've gone through three at this point. The first one's side buttons quit on me after about a year of use. Warranty had just expired, so I just bought a new one, and "returned" it with the old one in the box. New one's mouse wheel had the exact issue you described, right out of the box. So, I did that same process a second time to get the **third** mouse, and a couple weeks in, here I am again. I felt morally unjust at first for the false return, but then I read the horror stories about their customer support. Now I sit here still screwed over defeated, but at the very least confident that this was the first and last product I'll buy from them.
Thank you for the video! Now I can replace my battery for my fully functioning mouse, that just discharges to quick.
I am planning doing the same, were you able to replace it?
@@MrPirro Sorry for the late reply, yes I was.
i just got one RMA'd because it stopped taking a charge after 4 months. Now the scroll wheel doesn't work on the new one they gave me.
Scroll wheels are terrible on these mice
@@KellionBane I’ll leave this information here. But I heard from a friend you can photoshop the date in the receipt if it’s out of warranty.
Great Video As Always
hey thanks man..
The scroll wheel encoder mechanism is a really bad design on these models. I have Aerox 5 & 9 and both get a jumpy scroll. By that I mean when I scroll up it goes down slightly and when I go down it goes up slightly each time. Worthless with FPS and weapon changing, can't rely on it. The only thing I can do to fix it for a little bit is spraying or blowing air into the left click side to get whatever gets clogged up. Complete garbage design, would not recommend.
yeah, i second that.. it's happening to my aerox 9 after 3 months
I returned on warranty for the scroll jump. Got a new one but have now a new issue where whenever I press num1, it also tries to press Num2 and Num3. Same occurs for 4, 7 and 10. Queried again, hoping for a full refund.
Indeed it is. We've had four of these, all have scroll wheel jumping in the wrong direction. As far as I no, there has been no attempts to improve it. Steelseries L
I would love to get a metal version of the main part of the mouse, the plastic just seems very cheap and fragile besides that I like this mouse very much
having to remove and replace the skates to take it apart for cleaning is a bruh moment in my eyes
Great video, wish I had found this video before I purchased. The soldering on the TTC means disassembling for cleaning is not a quick fix. Got a jumpy scroll wheel 4 months into a new mouse 😢
Yeah I feel your pain
wtf kind of screw is that? I have a 44 piece precision screw set and I can't find a head for it/
the torx bits?
this was so satisfying to watch
Asmr mouse teardown :-p
I found you the most sext. It is not about to look It is about you love your work and give sansation
I am sorry but I am just laughing really hard every time this man puts random components on the scale. Jeez I can't believe these screws weigh so much. If only they put 1 less 0.15 gram screw in the mouse then I could have won that game. I can't believe you didn't weight all the glue used on those connectors. All that probably adds up to 0.25 grams.
I am laughing at the idea not at the guy for filming it, that level of detail while doing a review is really nice. I just personally do not care about mouse weight that much. If it was up to me logitech would sell a g604 v2 that had the swappable side plates of the razer naga pro with a slightly different grip and the weight could be 90-140 grams I honestly wouldn't even really notice. I miss the scroll wheel lock deature on the g604. Being able to unlock the scrollwheel into free spin is such a nice feature.
I prefer lighter mice tbf, but I agree in thinking all the min-maxing for it is so silly. Like you have people talking about a mouse being better because its 5 grams lighter like its not that big of a deal
@squeamishh6719 for sure. Weight matters especially for high level gaming but 98% of gamers it won't really help. Personally I like the extra weight but I get why some like super light. I just wish the market was more diverse instead of just focusing on weight.
A bit of a bruh moment that the aerox 8 is easier to take apart than the 5 but ok
It might be as I had taken apart the 5 just before so I had more of an idea of how they had made it.
@@Beardedbob Aight. Anyway, forgive me but what kinda switches they used in the sides? Might give me an idea for my naga x if I need to repair it