EVERYTHINGS BROKEN!! Can we get this 100+ year OLD Engine RUNNING again?? ANTIQUE ENGINE REVIVAL!!
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- Опубликовано: 7 окт 2024
- what a gorgeous engine when its done! this is a 1910s 2 1/2hp lauson built for DeLaval. a lot of parts where broken and I managed to break several others. hope you guys enjoy!
The fastest valve grind i have ever seen.
@@martinhambleton5076 fastest in the west
As soon as he started hitting that valve with that hammer I knew it was gonna break!!
tap-tap-tap-tap-tap CRACK Gasp!
@@trevorhaddox6884villager sound emmited*
and already had a new one and it worked great. but its always funky to see a cast iron valve head just plain crumbly before you!
It took a hell of a beating, 😅 I'll have to send this video to Mortske Repair 😀
Same, I’ve dropped valves from engine bays while doing rebuilds and had them break. Surprised that one took as much hammering as it did.
Dude, that's really cool. The old hit and miss engines are awesome. Someday I will do one too. Fun video bro.
That was different... and utterly mesmerizing. Great job fella. I'm subscribing because you have skills.
You certainly got it going but obviously have a lot to learn on using the correct types of tools to correctly approach the job in hand. Something of this age requires an amount of respect.
@@SiaVids I agree and disagree at the same time I work on them damn near daily there is some respect to be had but a crescent wrench is plenty of respectful if you're careful with it. And this is a relatively common engine in the general spectrum of things so the only rare thing about it that is worth being really careful with is the paint job as there isn't a lot of nice originals like this left out there
Wow. I typically don’t watch videos this long in length but this one was well worth it
I was hoping he done a Mortsky move on that valve, and at 4:41 he did. lol. Best part of the video so far.
You're starting from afar, but the result is superb, even with these little accidents, well done.
@@philippephilou8116 thank you
I know nothing about these old "hit/miss" engines but my Dad would have loved watching your video. Very interesting. Well done.
Great job! Always enjoy watching your videos. So nice to see old machinery revived.
@@igorchesalin3501 glad to hear it. Always try my best to entertain!
Bring back a lot of memories for me. When I was a teenager my friends Dad owned an antique shop and had a lot of old engines similar to this one and we started bringing them back and cleaning them up and getting to run again. This included some very old Tractors too!
Probably one of the best 'oily rag' restorations I've come across.
Great work.
@@MillwalltheCat glad you like it
good job
Most folks don't know the correct way to use an adjustable wrench. I see them pulling against the moveable jaw all the time and that's what makes things go badly. Always pull against the fixed jaw.
I was waiting on you to pull a Mortske and snap off the top of that valve …. And you did! Lol
the decision was calculated, but god I'm bad at math.
All of this people hating sorry to see that I think that you did a good job keep it up!😊
Hast Du kein Ordentliches Werkzeug?
Sorry, I had to stop watching when the adjustables came out.................................
@@thepotterer3726 why do people hate a crescent wrench so much. If your rounding bolts off with one your using it wrong. They have easily enough grip to break the bolt before rounding it off so I still don't get why people hate them so much. They are a very useful tool that only novices say don't work especially in the old engine world.
@@cruddycornstalks personally it's because it's big as fuck, it's easy to round bolt because they tend to have a lot of play and in general, they look like something that does the job badly
i personally woun't use it, but i mean, it's not me working on that, and it clearly worked good enought to do the job.
i think hammering straight into the valve might be worse than any wrench. again no hate, of course, i just want to discussion, but hammering into a stuck valve seems a good way to fuck stuff up
@@cruddycornstalks You should use 100 year old Peck, Stow & Wilcox monkey wrenches on your 100 year old engines 😄
Six point sockets ground down to eliminate the lead in taper, it's the only way to be sure.
I use adjustable wrenches BUT use sockets first on most things. Yeah, if something us siezed bad it is easy to round over.
What kind of heathen hammers a valve out? Adjustable wrench for everything?
I guess I could have used mind powers instead. and yes adjustable hammer for everything
Yeah. The adjustable wrench screams lazy or poor. Or both.
@@MARRANCA2 if you think a crescent wrench is a bad tool you either Don't know how to use one or have never used one properly to begin with. There's no harm in in using a crescent wrench. If using it correctly you can snap the bolt off before it would ever round the head.
BITCH PLEASE...I've been a Field Technician probably longer than you've been alive.
But please...tell me about myself while you're using crap tools.
Hahahaha. You're a joke.
a field technician isn't a hit and miss engine mechanic. between me and my father we have about 60 years in antique farm machinery repair, and we aren't going to tell you how to be a field technician , because there are almost completely unalike. if you haven't worked on antique engines maybe you shouldn't talk about how someone works on them.
What a great little engine. Well done!
@@JasonSmith-vd1sz thank you!
Watching you beat on that exhaust valve I was thinking to myself how is he not breaking that. I just hadn't given it enough time yet...
Thought this was a spoof video at first, but no, it seems to be real. Thank you for putting the comedy back into mechanical restorations.
that's the same question I ask myself everyday!
As soon as I saw him using an adjustable spanner on old rusty nuts I thought 'This guy's an animal who shouldn't be allowed near a restoration'.
But when I saw him trying to drive a rusty valve shaft back into the valve guide instead of trying to get it OUT for cleaning up first, I couldn't watch anymore. Especially as he was using a hammer, not a mallet.
yeah well I can tell you, it got a lot worse.
I quite like that you left the original paint on. It gives it a bit more character.
thanks! original paint is by far more expensive and harder to get then any repaint you can ever do to an engine. the decades of wear and age make a patina and color you cannot make from any spray can or brush! people that say otherwise don't respect a machines history or age. now if its been repainted its free game!
Somebody please take that hammer away and get him a set of wrenches, good grief!
nothing wrong with any of the tools I'm using or my methods. they where calculated. maybe not perfectly but it was calculated.
NO...don't let this clown near any tools ever again
Sounds exactly like me after great Mexican dinner ole. Keep up really good work lad
Great Video. I love seeing these old engines come back alive. I'm working on a John Deere now. Cracked magneto.
@@ShawnColorado thanks! At least John deere mags are around. I was worried I wouldn't find another splitdorf but a friend found me one and I was saved. I didn't mention it in the video but the windings in mine where also bad so the parts one came it twice as handy.
This is not restoration 😅
This is tortureration 😂
@@SharkRoadssure don't seem like you have delt with very many hit and miss engines. Do some learning before you make assumptions. And it isn't a restoration never said it was. 90% of people call repainting and engine a restoration. And I find the word over used and useless.
Rest in pieces, housing.
I love old machines
I get the goose bumps every time I see someone using an adjustable wrench
Get yourself a set o spanners !
So many experts popping up again.
everytime
You don't need to be an expert to understand that you shouldn't hit valves with a hammer.
@@Q2kerS you haven't worked on many stuck valves then.
@@cruddycornstalks worked on even worst, but in little bit different way
Shut up !!
I was just thinking when you was thrashing that valve, how come whenever I hit anything it breaks.
the cast iron headed valves are always touchy. but I knew I had a way to replace it so I wasn't worried.
@@cruddycornstalks monkey sees monkey does, this is the trouble. There is alot of young people who learn off RUclips before they attempt. They copy these bad practices.
What an expert 🙈
@@bernhardhofstatter3129 never claimed to be an expert but definitely delt with more of them then almost everyone commenting.
The way you hit that valve said it all
Good by
Not the way I would unstick a valve. Other then that, it was fun to watch. Nice little engine! Good job.
Wow great job getting the engine running...
I guess Delaval was the same company as Alfa laval ,which is familiar to me as makers of milk separators for dairy farmers. A huge company once. The little motor was typical on small farms for running the milking plant and separator.
@@Mercmad it wasn't alpha laval it was alpha Delaval the whole time. The. It be same just DeLeval
Absolutely Beautiful Engine! I agree about the paint too, fantastic refurbishment as always.
@@enginecrzy thank you! someday when I have more time down the line I'd love to get it completely spotless in the crankcase too but I had time restraints so I skipped that part.
It’s a great little engine, made to last. After some TLC and a clean it seems to be as good as new.
Sorry I missed the TLC part of the video, could you timestamp it please?
Finally somebody using penetrating oil. Field Mechanic here 30 years. There is nothing wrong with crecent wrenches if you know what the hell youre doing.
I agree with some people, the last thing to use is adjustable wrench. But most of the people who watch this don't know how to restore an engine or the process of it.
@@christopherrobinkivisild5309 they sure seem like it's the worst thing to ever touch this engine like some of the nuts haven't been taken off with a chisel and hammer before.
Don't think he does either
Yep. Not only was he a goon with a Crescent Wrench but he held it backwards on the Nuts. Then used it for a hammer. Oh boy. Sure ran good. I don’t know how
@@squarefour1 and what did it do? Nothing worked perfectly fine. No rounded heads no problems with the wrench what so ever but people still complain like it is causing problems. And it ran because I did the work it needed to run.
would this engine have some sort of intake air filter in service? can't see it lasting long without one, but am not knowledgeable so asking.
@@Mariano.Bernacki basically no hit and miss engine had an air filter. They just sucked crud in and spar crud out. That's why you can find a lot of them completely worn out from inhaling corn dust and the like for decades.
Never seen anyone belt a valve like that
a few before me had wacked on it for a good minute the stem was crushed to almost twice its thickness. so I had a replacement in line and had no reason to worry about breaking it, though it wasn't really expected. but hoh boy do people seem mad that I broke a valve that I had a replacement for ! and they seem to act like they know how to fix the world!
What did you use to clean the engine at the end there? Looks to have worked very well!
it was a 50 50 of gasoline and kerosene. worked best with the grease the engine had without making the green come off.
Das mucha "envidia buena" como decimos en el idioma español. Es muy divertido y gratificante poner a funcionar cosas antiguas; en mi casa tenemos un Renault 4 de 1977 que estuvo abandonado casi 15 años y ahora lo tenemos andando. Puede que técnicamente se puedan hacer las cosas mejor pero el trabajo que has hecho es muy bonito.
Are the bolts/nut non standard size so that an adjustable wrench has to be used?
@@AM-pl2pt someone finally gets it a bit. On these old engines alot of the bolts /nuts are called "large pattern" so in theory they should be one size larger then standard heads. But between a 100 years of rust and or abuse most are somewhere in between and it's safer and more reliable to use an adjustable wrench that will always go tight against what ever you put it on.
Looks like you could do all that while your eyes were closed. Great job young man!
@@GICK117 thank you! Ive got a pretty good idea I'd say.
He did do it with his eyes closed, that's why he couldn't find any correct tools. If you're in a workshop environment there is no excuse for using crescent wrenches as hammers etc, just lazy workmanship. The floor should be covered in sawdust like in old butcher shops, because this clown is a butcher of the worst kind.
Did you put a lead substitute in the gas?
There is no need there's nothing in this engine sensitive enough to care nor in most engines from that time. The lead in fuel wasn't as much for a lubricant or dampener then it was an octane booster as there wasn't ever metal lead in gas only tetra ethyl lead and that has no major help over modern octane boosters and oils.
If it works it’ll be a miracle. Lots of rusty components I apologize, it’s a miracle. It speaks volumes about the quality of the products built by master engineers ❤❤❤❤❤❤
its is always amazing to see how well they hold up over the years!
Lovely old motor. Treat to be able to work on one
Could have told you the valve would shatter. That's NOT how you do it. But otherwise, I enjoyed it.
Brilliant thank you 👍
nice video but did you clean the cylinder and piston ?
@@Technoismystyle17 i removed the large chunks other wise that was all it needed. Rings must not have been stuck or it would have run very good.
good job, it look dangerous, keep out of children hahahaah, ( elevator sound and RIP very funny hahaha)
Oh look, an engine that you can actually repair without patented tools and a computer that can only be reset by the manufacturer and is obsolete as soon as the manufacturer goes bankrupt
Well here in India most tractors are still fully mechanical . So sad that they will be like what you said in short amount of time 😢. And greeting me unemployed
I'd recommend having that green paint checked for arsenic content, just in case …
@@RattiDave licked it. Seemed ok
If you don’t know how to do something right, please ask someone, before destroy it more 🤬
@@danielgriffith7694 you can do that next time you work on one. Worked on hundreds of them. And handled some of the rarest out there so im good.
I used to work on irrigation pumps the fasteners above the water line was very hard to move, Under water, the bolts were very rusty, but easy to remove. Ever since, I soak rusty parts in water. It softened the rust, hardened steel can pit thought. Works beautifully with hinges tools. Pliers etc.
Great job rebuilding. Thanks.
Cry baby
Diden't hone the cylinder or check for stuck rings?
@@bobvarrica5541 if it has good compression without , no need.
Those “pot metal” parts are quite toxic… it’s usually a mixture of zinc, lead and aluminium. The ratio of metals can vary, that’s why some batches last and others rot away.
Yep never heat them very hot with a torch or you could get zinc poisoning
Nice to see beautiful, well made and reliable machinery being bought back to life. Subscribed.
How is it that you manage to spend so much time working on these oldies ?
no other social life or care for a sleep schedule
The guy is a hack, broke a valve and that housing for the igniter. Watching him break things is too painful.
@@Michael-ul8bv good to know the person calling me a hack doesn't even know what I broke and what was already broken. Or the fact both had replacement parts waiting. Maybe go learn about something before you try to act like you know better.
@@cruddycornstalks As we say in England - "that sure fixed his wagon"
is this an 8 stroke engine !?
Amazing ressurection!! i love those ancient hit n miss engines:)
What would this have been used for ? A generator ?
Why it is not firing all the time, just occasionally?
That's how a "hit and miss" engine regulates its speed. When engine is above the set speed, the governor disconnects the magneto and holds the exhaust valve open so the engine does not draw air/fuel mixture in the intake valve. Only when it drops below the set speed, the governor connects the magneto and exhaust valve resumes normal function, causing air/fuel mixture to be drawn in the intake valve again. Put some load on it and it will fire more often.
awsome work sir.paint it pretty.
NO, the paint on it is 100 years old but in remarkable condition for it's age, best left alone
Hochachtung, Schrottmotor nur mit Einmaulschlüssel, einem Schraubendrehe und einem Hammer instand gesetzt. Zeigt nur, wie gut die alten Motoren waren. Keine Schraube, Mutter oder sonst was, saß so fest, dass es nicht mit dem Satz "Hausfrauenwerkzeug" gelöst werden konnte. Noch eine Antenne darauf und der Motor empfängt Satellitenfernsehbilder ;-) In Korea gibt es einen Mechaniker, der repariert verrostete "ROLEX-Armbanduhren" nur mit Hammer, Wasser und einer Zahnbürste. Schon toll, was?
Lord have mercy... guy uses an adjustable wrench and you guys lose your minds.... who cares what tools he uses???
Imagine if he knows the right tools for the job.....
@@nikolaivanov8208 since he uses the adjustable wrench he doesn't have to have like 50 different wrenches
@@nikolaivanov8208 And he has wrenches he just uses the adjustable wrench to save time going back and forth to the tool box and have to dig for the right size
Rule number one their young'un is cast iron don't like hammers.
P.S. Neither does pot metal.
Abroad, it is mechanical respiration. good.
Cool to have this machine powering an alternator or something slightly more period to produce power to charge an Edison battery...
Super Like!!! amazing job!!!
Nunca me paso de ver una restauración tan mediocre, con golpes innecesarios al punto de romper una válvula, y nada prolijo al trabajar, una vergüenza como reparador
Built to last
A friend of mine has a few "hit and miss" antique engines.
You did pretty well to get her back up and running. Don’t worry about the purist haters who are condescending about “the wrong tools”. A decent quality shifter, that has very little play is more than enough. Hell, they used a similar tool back then anyway.
Nonsense. I've seen so called qualified mechanics threaten with dismal for using a shifter excessively. They have their place, but VERY limited.
P.S. Qualified motor mechanic.
Didn't expect a pot metal mag housing...
Hammering on valve.
valve breaks.
doh. Saw that coming a mile away lol.
Also you shouldn't use adjustable wrenches/spanners on ANYTHING that might be siezed. And.. when you were using it, you were using it incorrect hehe. But still nice to see an old engine come alive. Keep up the learning, and thank you for the video.
You should spend more time lapping valves, and there was no detail on the piston and cylinder condition, all we saw was it was rusty. Not sure if you did it, but you should check and show the main bearing quality and wear level as well. Just a bit more detail, a bit slower, bit more thorough, and less hammering on things.
Well done! 🤣 Subscribed
Great pacing for the video! No one likes a bunch of talking and real-time unscrewing of bolts.
gotta make taking out a bolt feel like pulling a pin otherwise, it makes the video way to slow and long!
Speak for yourself!
Very nice job 👍👍🇺🇲
@@jimbritt2874 thank you
is it for sale?
Great video,,,no talk that takes of the intress to se it...thanks!
thanks! i try to make the video as interesting as possible!
Love watching you get your hands dirty and bringing old back to life. Also laughing at these bufoon arm chair mechanics who have to make themselves feel smart by acting like they've actually turned a wrench. Pull the stick out of your asses people
That's a cool old engine, got an IH LA engine myself, but I cringe when you break out the crescent wrench and hammer, if you would take the time to use the proper tools and leave the hammer in the toolbox you would save yourself a lot of headaches
I don't know what people expect you to get the valve out with other then a hammer. A press would have a good chance of breaking a cast iron head valve and or bending it as well. And only people that don't know how to use an adjustable wrench don't like an adjustable wrench.
Меня бесит, когда разводными ключами работают!! Что нормальных нет????? 😡
Это математику нужно знать, ключи хитрые 7/8, 4/16 и т.д.
IF YOUR GOING TO TAKE THE TIME TO TEAR IT DOWN' A SMART PERSON WILL CLEAN ALL PARTS AND SAND BLAST THE WHOLE THING. THEN PROCEED TO DO A FILING FOR BLEMISHES. AND SURFACE SAND ALL THE SHAFTS.. AND YES I CRINGED WHEN THE HAMMER CAME OUT...
@@richardkitchen2469 what sick person would sand blast something like this? Destroying all of the age and history it has and the original paint that's made it 110 plus years in the world. That sounds like someone that's never worked on preserving history very much. Let's save it by removing half of what makes it old and painting it with cheap paint that any one can put on anything, seems like a flawless plan. If you ever find an engine in this condition find someone else to save it because it sounds like you'd like to destroy half it's history.
Would you do that to an old shotgun or rifle as well? Asking for a friend.
@@milwaukeeroadjim9253 yeah you can't have any of that old bluing on there you need to fully redo that
It's worth bearing in mind that:
a) he's entitled to do it any old way he pleases.
b) purists are tiresome.
c) you are anally retentive.
Now, perhaps you can direct us to your restoration channel, I'm sure it's something to behold.
Thank you for making such an incredible video my friend. You gained another subscriber. Give me strength too. Thank you my friend.
Thanks for the sub!
Great job awesome
Thanks!
20-stroke engine
Still just a 4 stroke
He makes it look so easy. Never like that in real life.
thanks! alot of labor went into the filming and the editing to make the video nice and short. and everyone that doesn't understand that is saying i missed steps and did it wrong
You redeemed yourself for me when you remagnetized magneto . Hammering te valve head was not a great start. You were lucky with the cast iron weld too .
Wow, that is amazing how you restored that old diesel engine to working order. It looks better and it works like a charm as well. Great work.
Diesel? Did you even watch the video?
@@erikziak1249 what i was thinking. that thing has a fucking carb lol
He needs a stock tank full of EvapoRust to dunk that thing in...
Bro, use more lube earlier, and not WD40! Pb blaster! I’ll send you a can.
Fantastic job tho!
been tested by many people both perform very similar. and wd40 was on sale. and I always get like halfway through something and remember that penetrant exists and is helpful!
@@cruddycornstalks I’m an industrial mechanic for 20ish years, and I have the option to use WD 40 or PB, and it’ll be PB every time, and I even hate the smell of PB. It really works better.
WD is excellent for cleaning and light metal moisturizing.
Look up Project Farm videos comparing penetrating fluids. He found WD40 and PB Blaster about equally effective at loosening rusted nuts. Seafoam Deep Creep performed the best giving about 15% lower break-away torque than WD40 or PB Blaster. He found Deep Creep is also a better rust preventative so it kills two birds with one stone.
I want to build a similar enging from molten metal. Make lost foam castings , possibly some lodt pla using 3D prints. Then build a engine, to be used to generate power to charge batteries for a off grid home. NOT a replica.. more of a look at one of these, and say "Hey! I can build one of these!" Type of thing.. i have work on engines since I was a kid. But i want to actually cast and weld Making the parts for a engine. I would really like to build a few for different fuels. Build a steam engine to burn used engine oil in the boiler, id like to make it from stainless steel about the size of two 55 gallon drums on the outside. The inside, the actual boiler bring roughly the size of 1.5-1.7 , 40 gallon drums. Uses 1/2" plate, (two of them) drill (and ream) about 60 holes for the 1.25" stainless 18 gauge tubes. Placed in the steel end caps then wrapped eith a 1/4" sheet or possibly. 2-3 1/8" sheets. Eith the steam fully welded, (full penetration welds) then grind and Polish the area. And nickel plate ( heavily on the inside) weld in a ring about 1/2 x 1/2" with a groove for a copper o-ring, the ring inside the outer hoop of plate steel. Tig welded to kerp it in place and sealed. The o-ring seals the end plates. Them having oval holes to sccess the tubes. the fire box only about 12"-24" made from two layers of plate. A 1/4" plate with a 2" spacer, from 1/4" plate. Then another plate of 1/16" or 1/8" with several 2" pipes eith plugs, to allow the inner of the sides to be filled with fine sand, the inner most plated in nickel, with a 20 gauge stainless sheet metal deflector polished to reflect heat. With a 18 gauge sheet on top with holes matching the tubes or depend on the nickel plating. For protection. With a series of rings of tubes 1.5"-2" eith multiple 3/4" tubes coming from it. About 4"-6" long with a leaf blower connected to the big tube. it habing a Small piece of tubing inside with used oil under about 5-10 psi the tubing 3/8" with 3/16 pieces running up the 3/4-1" tubes with about 6-8 tiny holes neat the end of the 3/16" tube with bit plugged. The only outlet being the tiny holes them spraying into a 3/8-1/2" tube about 2" long. Making a nozzle anout 12 of them . With a tiny vhrst plug for each. With insulation protecting the wire, probably switch to nichrome wire, using the tubing as the conductor of current. With 12,v, 30 amps or so have a hot wire over the nozzle with the blower on low, slowly turn on the fuel, maybe use propane to start it. But the red hot wire should start thr oil. Slowly turn up the fuel to grt a fire, then the blower until it doesn't smoke. It should have 60-80 psi in no time. With the glame on a steel plate on a fire btick, for each nozzle, it should heat the fire box to near 1000°f with the tubes bring ,600°f (the air moving through them!) with the water ABOUT 300°-380° maybe run a steam pipe through the box to super heat the steam through a triple pass 2" pipe. Then to the stem engine. Hopefully enough to generate 3kw atleast, 750watts bring roughly 1hp, so 1.25×3=3.75 HP. With losses it vould require up to 7.5-8hp to produce 2800-3kw. Depending on losses and efficiency. A efficient generator could require as little as 4-4.5 hp i would like to produce up to 20 kw eventually, require up to 40 HP.
That bring up the other engines, a gas or propane, wood gas engine. Having two cylinders with 8" bores and a12" stroke being a opposed cylinder engine , the balance should be great. Spin up to 1200 rpm max. But normally be 400-600 RPM. With the pistons both up at the same time , but giring one sfter the other. It should run near silent with the long stroke. Thr combustion should be over when the valve opens. Just a whoosh sound with the intake vslve opening just as the woosh is almost over. To help fill the cylinder with air fuel. Making more power. With roughly 9:1-10:1 compression, 2-3 times or more compression than the old engines had! Should produce more power. By about the same multiplier. A tiny 3.5 hp engine with a better cam, more compression, better fuel. 3.5 hp should get to 6-7 easily, the TQ should be greater atleast. And better balance should allow higher RPM is equivalent to much more power!!.... Sorry to ramble! Have a awesome day!
You are a far better mechanic than I am.
However, I'm disappointed that 1) you did not use sockets or at least open end wrenches to remove the nuts, 2) you didn't take the valve assembly to your anvil, and use something a bit less drastic to hit on the valve so it did not shatter, 3) once you had everything apart, you took each assembly to first a cleaning station to remove the old gunk, then to a sandblasting to make everything look at least clean.
Yes, you were able to make the engine work again, and if that was your only goal, you accomplished that.
I suppose I'm used to restoration folks totally cleaning, stripping, re lubing, and repainting everything so it looked nearly new. I suppose I was expecting more.
thank you. for once a polite and honest critique. but! 1) a crescent does no harm to any nut or bolt when used correctly and it didn't, as well as it fits some old bolts better then any socket will since they have rusted smaller over time and aren't standard anymore, 2) had no major care for saving the valve since I had replacements ready and it was bashed in hard from many people before me trying, 3) I cleaned the grease off generally and plan to clean it farther by hand, but I would never sand blast this engine or its parts as the paint and its patina is part of its history and far harder to obtain then any type of paint you can spray at it. it took that paint over a hundred year to get that way and people want to spend a few hours taking it off and putting something anyone can buy at a store on it, no thank you.
I did a bunch of little mechanical reworking to remove slop and make the engine run as best as it can and succeeded . when it comes to antique farm machinery it is far more desirable to preserve the nice original paint, then "restore it" . if you have the paint to preserve.
thank you for your comment and your thoughts!