I was cleaning with isopropyl alcohol about every two weeks. I started using mineral spirits with a finish coat of CRC 2-26 and haven't cleaned my track for 6 months and still have no contact problems running dcc.
Great video. I have used 99% alcohol for years and my basement is fairly/really dusty and I had to clean once a month or so. After Joe Fugate's article I switched to wd40 contact cleaner (the least offensive on the list for in the house) sprayed onto a 1 1/2" X 4" piece of blue jeans wrapped around a wine bottle cork once and haven't had to clean since. On the Locomotive wheels I wiggle the truck side to side to clean right to the flange.
I’ve been thinking about trying some contact cleaner myself, maybe on the modules. That way if it doesn’t pan out I have it isolated. By the way, I just checked the WD-40 SDS and it contains--are you ready for this-10-20% isopropyl alcohol, so you’re still using it!
Fortunately I was a copper/fiber splicer for At&t for 30 years. I have 100% isopropyl alcohol which is hard to get and also a copper cleaning solvent we use to use. I always use is the 100% to finish off all cleaning. It was safe on fiber optics so I feel it’s the safest on electronics. I also have no-ox, but I’m not a fan of it! It’s fine on a outside connection that is in weather and rarely handled, like an electric outlet.
Another great Video Larry very helpful as ever. I saw that Jack Burgess recommended the use of an Air Purifier to cut down Dust in the Air and eventually on to your Layout, he uses one on his Yosemite Valley Railroad with great Results. Thanks and keep safe.
We have a whole house electronic air filter and I run a dehumidifier in the basement 24/7 so it stays pretty clean down there. A lot of the dust and dirt comes from unfinished ceilings and bare concrete floors.
Daylight Dave (WAHOOO!) hollows out locomotives and keeps the electric pick ups which fashions a very interesting "keep alive" that also powers a sound card and lights with dcc; much like a backwards "Slug". I thought this to be a very ingenious way to smooth out movement.
Completely agree with everything you said about cleaning track. I also use a short length of 1/2" dowel (which I learned from another video, forgot who, though). It works well and makes it much easier clean track in constricted areas, such as between buildings, etc.
Larry, on track cleaning Fishplate had a great video on track cleaning lately, in which he showed a conductive cleaner. Having worked with similar security cleaners I humbly think such products are worthy of at least some attention. Love the video, thanks for sharing!
@@TheDCCGuy You can actually just apply it to the tracks and wheels and clean all the carrier grease off it after about 8 hours. It works great, I've used it on the wheels of steam engines that have traction tires (just not on those drivers in particular). No dirt after that.
@@TheDCCGuy I have been using INOX MX3 for over 40 years, and I have models on my layouts that have never needed wheel cleaning since using it. I apply INOX to the track about every 2 months, no need for wheel cleaning.
I do a similar engine wheel cleaning as you do. I have a test track on my desk where my computer is located that I can use Decoder Pro and JMRI. I also have a first generation Digitrax Zephyr I can attach to it. I grab one of my wife's Clorox Cleaning Wipes. Same thing that she uses on her granite counter tops. I drape that over the rails to accomplish the same task. However, I don't have as many locos as you do and mine are all steam models. It works really well. In the wiring discussion a good tip for those who are very visual in trying to figure out their wiring, is take an old beat up boxcar, with rolling trucks, to make a tool. Then attach colored electrical tape to it. So, if your wiring is red and black, put a stripe of black on one side and a stripe of red on the other side. Place that car on the tracks to wire, set it facing to match how you want to wire your feeders colors to line up. As you soldier your feeders to the rails you can push the car along the rails as you go, helping you visually keep your colors straight. The car can be real helpful as it is real easy to get distracted and swap your colors. When you come around a reverse loop that car can help remind you as you will see the colors suddenly don't match. That is where you need to wiring in an auto reverse circuit.
Look into Krud Kutter by Rustoleum. I have started using it with some good results. Cleans as good as anything else I've used on track and wheels. It does contain water like alcohol so may not be the most optimal agent to use. I still like the recomendation on Rons Trains And Things for prevention of oxidation though. This might be as good as alcohol or petroleum based solvents without the odor and toxic compounds. It looks very safe to use. Anyway, I'm giving it a try.
Hey, Larry. Thanks for the mention and the link. I certainly plan to do a performance update one year after the publication of my no-ox video. So far all is running great with just a light dusting with a soft cloth or vaccuum every few months.
Good to hear Ron. I still have my tube of No-Ox-Id left over from my aluminum house wire experiences so I guess I am primed if not yet convinced. My concern is that too many folks will jump on the bandwagon and apply way too much with the results being slipping drive wheels and attraction of dirt, dust, and cat hair to the rails. Let me know in a year👍
I use a product called - ACT-6006 track and wheel cleaner. Seems to work well. I also believe that the more you run your trains, the cleaner the track stays.
Larry very informative My track cleaning method is this I use Woodland scenics Tidy Track Clearer and the pads they have. I Also have a piece of PVC I cut down to add an extension to the Tidy Track Cleaner for hard to reach spots. Then I use AutoSOL Metal Polish Liquid to clean the Tidy Track Cleaner Pads the stuff comes right off the pads once that i doen then I use an old T-shirt and spray on INOX MX3 Multi-Purpose Lubricant and wipe the track. To do my turnouts and crossovers I take a tidy track cleaner pad and rub the rails by hand. I use the same method you use for cleaning the engines. My rolling stock I use a micro brush to clean. Looking forward to seeing more videos
I used Wahl hair clipper oil in the 80s on my DC layout. It saved my railroad. However it didn't work so well on my DCC layout. I know no-ox works , very thin. You also have to run a train over it to spread it. Now if you do that you can clean wheels the way you do( quit convenient and easy ) . Then run on no-ox and your home free. From there on just wipe rail lightly with cloth and your running.
I've had LokSound decoders go Zombie on dirty wheel / track conditions. It's clean enough that the loco doesn't fully stall out but the "computer" part of the decoder no longer responds to commands from the throttle.
You show to use Goo Gone.. That as far as I am concerned is bad. It gums up the rails. We in South Jersey use CRC 2/26. I spray it in a few spots on the rails. Run a 20 car train around about 3 time. Let it dry fr a day and then my railroad runs for the next year with no problems at all.
I think I said that I only use it and bright boys in extremely dirt circumstances and then always followup with a clean cloth to get the goo off-discovered that 30 years ago.
I don’t have an index, however they are organized in topical playlists on my channel page. It would be great if some ambitious viewer with more time than I took it on themself to do an index but I wouldn’t hold my breath.
As always very interesting Larry. I model in N scale and worry a bit about bits of fluff getting in my engines using the cloth on the track for cleaning. I guess all methods will have good and bad points. Graham from New Zealand
Thank-you Larry. Another great video. Question, I have a DC test track on my workbench, (layout is dcc) but I’m hesitant to use it for cleaning my dcc locomotives? Is it better to use dcc power, to clean the wheels as you demonstrated? I’m always worried about damaging the decoder.
DCC is all about conductivity. CRC products are the best to achieve the best electrical conductivity. You want to build a layer of electrically conductive material on your track, spray CRC on a rag and polish the rails. Clean your loco wheels with CRC and see all the dirt removed. Now your electrical conductive material is on the engine wheels, that equals to a win win situation! It keeps the moisture out. You won't have any more start / stop / start problems. If you still have problems check the wires to the track. IA no way! Tried it.
Larry- I have an atlas fm h15-44. I am having a problem getting the shell off. I took the couplers off and have been told by others that on most atlas engines the shell should come off with a pull. Unfortunetly it won't come off. The details on it are so fragile that they come off but not the shell. Any hints or hidden screws that I'm missing? thanks Randy. Love your videos.
OK, there don’t appear to be any big clips but there may be some small ones just creating a friction grip. I just slid a small flat screwdriver under the top step next to the pilot and pried it up gently. Do this at each end and that should free it and allow the shell to slide off. Go slow and don’t force it, once you get the initial grip to release it becomes just a matter of wiggling it up off the cast chassis.
Inox. if you can get it. Best for cleaning track. Must be done at midnight though. Only in months with the letter 'R' in it. Need to have a horse near by, for luck.
I thought those were rated for 18” curves but check your instructions. 4-8-4 locos can be sensitive to curves because of the rigid wheelbase of the 4 sets of drivers. Manufacturers often will build in a lot of lateral slop into the or not put flanges on some of the driver wheels to avoid this issue.
Excellent video full of great information and I use electrical contact cleaner for delicate electronics for cleaning my track which does a great job of cleaning and improving conductivity,also using the same method as you for cleaning locomotive wheels except I use electrical contact cleaner.👍😀😀🇬🇧🚂
Larry I have a G Scale outdoors layout. I'd like to install some Keep Alives. My locos draw about 2-4 amps and I run 16 volts DCC track power. What size capacitors do you recommend?
Sorry, I saw your other posts in my email feed but for some reason they were not coming up in my comments management section until this one. It gets real complicated when you jack up the amperage and voltage like this as all the components need to be ramped up accordingly. In the original version they are designed for typical HO scale amps and volts So you’ll need to replace all components with those rated for the amps your motors pull and the voltages they require. I did another video (#31) on what goes into a stay alive device and gave some suggestions in it for modifying the circuit, so take a look at it. Many G scalers have gone to battery power using “Dead Rail” systems that use wireless tx/rx for communications and decoder interfaces and the battery for power.
Hi Larry. As you know, track cleaning materials is a minefield! One opinion against 70% IPA is that it means that the remaining 30% is water! Interestingly, as a means of overcoming power outages, you didn't mention stay-alives; yes, I know you have made a video about these, but I thought you may have mentioned them here.
What I do is I have several Big Red Buttons around the room. When pressed, all power to the whole layout is just cut off instantly -- trains, accessories, lighting, everything. There's a key-operated reset switch that only I have the key to, to turn the power back on to the layout.
Ah yes the good old kill switch. What I like is the dead man switch that everybody has to keep depressed to keep power on. Build one into each throttle and if you let up on it, your train will come to a dead halt!
How often is a DCC signal repeated on the bus? If I do a speed change from step 20 to 25 for a given loco, the command station will send out a digital packet with the address of the loco and the data to change to speed step 25. Now, if I don't touch anything, will the command station resend that digital packet from time to time and if it does resend, does it resend for all commands or just certain ones? Where this comes into play is your comment about dirty track. What I thought I heard you say is that if a loco hits dirty track, it'll stop but once you move it, it will receive a new command and start running. My understanding is that the engine uses the AC current and converts that to DC for the motor and it simply uses the instruction it has received to determine how much DC current it gives to the motor. Now, if it hits dirty track, it'll loose the AC current so can't send any DC BUT, does it retain its last setting so that when it gets current again it'll go back to its prior setting - that "seems" to be what happens. Otherwise the system would have to be sending out speed instructions pretty much continuously, to all locos.
It all depends p the decoder. Many will just reset to step “0” and come to an abrupt halt until the next update command arrives. Some decoders on the other hand may have built in memory and will return to the last command they received. The frequency of updates varies with command station and the amount of data traffic on the bus. The more locos you have running the more data there is. It is a very complicated data communication protocol that we take for granted as long as it is working. Here are the specifics: C: Frequency Of Packet Transmission Packets sent to Digital Decoders should be repeated as frequently as possible, as a packet may have been lost due to noise or poor electrical conductivity between wheels and rails. Power may also be removed from the rails between the Packet End Bit and the Preamble of the next packet to allow for alternative command control formats. A Digital Decoder shall be able to act upon multiple packets addressed to it, provided the time between the packet end bit of the first packet and the packet start bit of the second packet are separated by at least 5 milliseconds. If a decoder receives a bit sequence with a missing or invalid data byte start bit, a missing or invalid packet end bit, or an incorrect error detection byte, it must recognize the next valid preamble sequence as the beginning of a new packet. Alternative command control formats are specifically allowed between the packet end bit and the start of the next preamble. Manufacturers of decoders are encouraged to provide automatic conversion for a variety of power signals and command control formats in addition to the NMRA digital signal (per S-9.1), provided that automatic conversion to these alternate power signals can be disabled. If automatic conversion is enabled, Digital Decoders must remain in digital mode and not convert to using any alternate power signal so long as the time between Packet Start Bits is less than or equal to 30 milliseconds in duration. If automatic conversion is disabled, Digital Decoders must remain in digital mode regardless of the timing of Packet Start Bits. It shall be possible to configure Digital Command Stations to transmit at least one complete packet every 30 milliseconds as measured from the time between packet start bits.
That is an Atlas Alco RS3 and a one of a kind paint job I did about 30 years ago. The models are still made by Atlas and also readily available on ebay. They did at least one run in that paint scheme but a different number although it is rare as a result and only comes up occasionally for sale.
I have no idea what you have changed in the process so your best bet is to open your manual and look for factory reset, then do it. That should get you back to operations just like when it came out of the box.
You can manually run them across the cloth on the rails just like for the locos. If the gunk is caked in then you need to go over them with the blade of a pen knife. I replace all plastic wheels with nickel plated ones from Intermountain and then keep them clean with the cloth method.
Does it matter if track feeders are of two different gauges? Eg. Smaller gauge on turnouts or small sections and slightly larger gauge on long track sections. Both of these gauges running off the same bus line?
No, but remember that as wire diameter decreases resistance goes up. The way to counter this is to keep those small diameter wires as short as possible.
Every product I've ever heard of regarding cleaning track and such is too abrasive, too lubricating, leaves a film, or will attack my plastic ties or traction tires. I'm just using a cotton sock on track whenever I encounter a dirty section. Period. I am given to understand that on my N scale track, the nickel silver's oxide is more conductive than any of those films. What do you think?
That’s what I have always read. However in my opinion it is the other dirt, grease, dust, cat hair, oil, glue, paint, foam scatter, static grass that causes most of the big issues. Interesting a lot of household dust is dead human skin cells that just naturally sough off over time-they gotta go somewhere!
They’re called keep alives. There also are systems called dead rails that use batteries in the locos but space as always is the issue as you need a battery and decoder/receiver. They are very popular with garden railway types and O scalers.
@@TheDCCGuy Or current extenders and other names used by the various manufacturers, There doesn't yet seem to be an accepted generic name for these capacitor systems that provide power for short time periods.
i think the band wagon effect is what is going on with the No lox, ( spelling ) that Ron's trains and things is telling everyone to use. like you said it is a grease. I will stick with 99% alcohol and rub it on rub it off. the other thing I use is track cleaner,, sold just like that and with that name .. imagine that TRACK CLEANER to clean the rails.
@@TheDCCGuy I understand that for linking videos but in the description above the comments even if you refer to some video numbers. You have over 40 great videos in your wiring section so for a beginner it might be hard to find a good basic one or one with a general overview. They appear to be listed in date order rather than a logical order one would do things in.
I was cleaning with isopropyl alcohol about every two weeks. I started using mineral spirits with a finish coat of CRC 2-26 and haven't cleaned my track for 6 months and still have no contact problems running dcc.
Great video. I have used 99% alcohol for years and my basement is fairly/really dusty and I had to clean once a month or so. After Joe Fugate's article I switched to wd40 contact cleaner (the least offensive on the list for in the house) sprayed onto a 1 1/2" X 4" piece of blue jeans wrapped around a wine bottle cork once and haven't had to clean since. On the Locomotive wheels I wiggle the truck side to side to clean right to the flange.
I’ve been thinking about trying some contact cleaner myself, maybe on the modules. That way if it doesn’t pan out I have it isolated. By the way, I just checked the WD-40 SDS and it contains--are you ready for this-10-20% isopropyl alcohol, so you’re still using it!
Excellent video, Larry. One of the reasons I subscribed to your channel was the way you showed us how and explained why.
Fortunately I was a copper/fiber splicer for At&t for 30 years. I have 100% isopropyl alcohol which is hard to get and also a copper cleaning solvent we use to use. I always use is the 100% to finish off all cleaning. It was safe on fiber optics so I feel it’s the safest on electronics. I also have no-ox, but I’m not a fan of it! It’s fine on a outside connection that is in weather and rarely handled, like an electric outlet.
Merry Christmas.
I'm planning on building a small HO layout. All your tips really help me out a lot. Thank you Larry!
Another great Video Larry very helpful as ever. I saw that Jack Burgess recommended the use of an Air Purifier to cut down Dust in the Air and eventually on to your Layout, he uses one on his Yosemite Valley Railroad with great Results. Thanks and keep safe.
We have a whole house electronic air filter and I run a dehumidifier in the basement 24/7 so it stays pretty clean down there. A lot of the dust and dirt comes from unfinished ceilings and bare concrete floors.
Thanks for your details video great watching every time
Daylight Dave (WAHOOO!) hollows out locomotives and keeps the electric pick ups which fashions a very interesting "keep alive" that also powers a sound card and lights with dcc; much like a backwards "Slug". I thought this to be a very ingenious way to smooth out movement.
Hi Larry. Another great video. I'm looking forward to seeing the new series (as I continue watching the videos from the 1st to the newest).
Great video Larry thank you you will answer the question about our club way out with CV 29
I always learn something new with your videos Larry. Thanks for sharing these.
Completely agree with everything you said about cleaning track. I also use a short length of 1/2" dowel (which I learned from another video, forgot who, though). It works well and makes it much easier clean track in constricted areas, such as between buildings, etc.
Larry, on track cleaning Fishplate had a great video on track cleaning lately, in which he showed a conductive cleaner. Having worked with similar security cleaners I humbly think such products are worthy of at least some attention. Love the video, thanks for sharing!
Yes, that’s what No-Ox-Id is, a conductive grease, but I won’t jump on that bandwagon, no grease on my layout.
@@TheDCCGuy You can actually just apply it to the tracks and wheels and clean all the carrier grease off it after about 8 hours. It works great, I've used it on the wheels of steam engines that have traction tires (just not on those drivers in particular). No dirt after that.
@@TheDCCGuy I have been using INOX MX3 for over 40 years, and I have models on my layouts that have never needed wheel cleaning since using it. I apply INOX to the track about every 2 months, no need for wheel cleaning.
Lots of good information there, Larry. Thank you.
I plan to use IPA to "deep clean" and follow up with AeroCar Hobbies ACT6000 with a Centerline Products track cleaning car
I do a similar engine wheel cleaning as you do. I have a test track on my desk where my computer is located that I can use Decoder Pro and JMRI. I also have a first generation Digitrax Zephyr I can attach to it. I grab one of my wife's Clorox Cleaning Wipes. Same thing that she uses on her granite counter tops. I drape that over the rails to accomplish the same task. However, I don't have as many locos as you do and mine are all steam models. It works really well.
In the wiring discussion a good tip for those who are very visual in trying to figure out their wiring, is take an old beat up boxcar, with rolling trucks, to make a tool. Then attach colored electrical tape to it. So, if your wiring is red and black, put a stripe of black on one side and a stripe of red on the other side. Place that car on the tracks to wire, set it facing to match how you want to wire your feeders colors to line up. As you soldier your feeders to the rails you can push the car along the rails as you go, helping you visually keep your colors straight. The car can be real helpful as it is real easy to get distracted and swap your colors. When you come around a reverse loop that car can help remind you as you will see the colors suddenly don't match. That is where you need to wiring in an auto reverse circuit.
That's a great idea for the wiring color visual boxcar. So simple but really helpful. Thanks for sharing this tip.
Look into Krud Kutter by Rustoleum. I have started using it with some good results. Cleans as good as anything else I've used on track and wheels. It does contain water like alcohol so may not be the most optimal agent to use. I still like the recomendation on Rons Trains And Things for prevention of oxidation though. This might be as good as alcohol or petroleum based solvents without the odor and toxic compounds. It looks very safe to use. Anyway, I'm giving it a try.
Hey, Larry. Thanks for the mention and the link. I certainly plan to do a performance update one year after the publication of my no-ox video. So far all is running great with just a light dusting with a soft cloth or vaccuum every few months.
Good to hear Ron. I still have my tube of No-Ox-Id left over from my aluminum house wire experiences so I guess I am primed if not yet convinced. My concern is that too many folks will jump on the bandwagon and apply way too much with the results being slipping drive wheels and attraction of dirt, dust, and cat hair to the rails. Let me know in a year👍
@@TheDCCGuy Yes, as I tried to say emphatically in the video, a thin, almost microscopic layer is all you need, all you want.
I use a product called - ACT-6006 track and wheel cleaner. Seems to work well. I also believe that the more you run your trains, the cleaner the track stays.
Larry very informative My track cleaning method is this I use Woodland scenics Tidy Track Clearer and the pads they have. I Also have a piece of PVC I cut down to add an extension to the Tidy Track Cleaner for hard to reach spots. Then I use AutoSOL Metal Polish Liquid to clean the Tidy Track Cleaner Pads the stuff comes right off the pads once that i doen then I use an old T-shirt and spray on INOX MX3 Multi-Purpose Lubricant and wipe the track. To do my turnouts and crossovers I take a tidy track cleaner pad and rub the rails by hand. I use the same method you use for cleaning the engines. My rolling stock I use a micro brush to clean. Looking forward to seeing more videos
I used Wahl hair clipper oil in the 80s on my DC layout. It saved my railroad. However it didn't work so well on my DCC layout. I know no-ox works , very thin. You also have to run a train over it to spread it. Now if you do that you can clean wheels the way you do( quit convenient and easy ) . Then run on no-ox and your home free. From there on just wipe rail lightly with cloth and your running.
I've had LokSound decoders go Zombie on dirty wheel / track conditions. It's clean enough that the loco doesn't fully stall out but the "computer" part of the decoder no longer responds to commands from the throttle.
You show to use Goo Gone.. That as far as I am concerned is bad. It gums up the rails. We in South Jersey use CRC 2/26. I spray it in a few spots on the rails. Run a 20 car train around about 3 time. Let it dry fr a day and then my railroad runs for the next year with no problems at all.
I think I said that I only use it and bright boys in extremely dirt circumstances and then always followup with a clean cloth to get the goo off-discovered that 30 years ago.
Hi Larry ,can I get an index of your video's anywhere as I love your show and you take your time and don't take short cuts
I don’t have an index, however they are organized in topical playlists on my channel page. It would be great if some ambitious viewer with more time than I took it on themself to do an index but I wouldn’t hold my breath.
Thanks Larry, 🐾🚂 BearCreek Model RR, KY.
As always very interesting Larry. I model in N scale and worry a bit about bits of fluff getting in my engines using the cloth on the track for cleaning. I guess all methods will have good and bad points. Graham from New Zealand
Thank-you Larry. Another great video. Question, I have a DC test track on my workbench, (layout is dcc) but I’m hesitant to use it for cleaning my dcc locomotives? Is it better to use dcc power, to clean the wheels as you demonstrated? I’m always worried about damaging the decoder.
DCC is all about conductivity. CRC products are the best to achieve the best electrical conductivity.
You want to build a layer of electrically conductive material on your track, spray CRC on a rag and polish the rails.
Clean your loco wheels with CRC and see all the dirt removed. Now your electrical conductive material
is on the engine wheels, that equals to a win win situation! It keeps the moisture out. You won't have any more
start / stop / start problems. If you still have problems check the wires to the track. IA no way! Tried it.
What does CRC stand for?
Larry- I have an atlas fm h15-44. I am having a problem getting the shell off. I took the couplers off and have been told by others that on most atlas engines the shell should come off with a pull. Unfortunetly it won't come off. The details on it are so fragile that they come off but not the shell. Any hints or hidden screws that I'm missing? thanks Randy. Love your videos.
I have several in HO scale so let me dig one out and see what goes.
OK, there don’t appear to be any big clips but there may be some small ones just creating a friction grip. I just slid a small flat screwdriver under the top step next to the pilot and pried it up gently. Do this at each end and that should free it and allow the shell to slide off. Go slow and don’t force it, once you get the initial grip to release it becomes just a matter of wiggling it up off the cast chassis.
Inox. if you can get it. Best for cleaning track. Must be done at midnight though. Only in months with the letter 'R' in it. Need to have a horse near by, for luck.
I have a Bachmann Railfan SP 4449 with DCC and Sound and it has derailed sometimes going around a 28 inch curve
I thought those were rated for 18” curves but check your instructions. 4-8-4 locos can be sensitive to curves because of the rigid wheelbase of the 4 sets of drivers. Manufacturers often will build in a lot of lateral slop into the or not put flanges on some of the driver wheels to avoid this issue.
Excellent video full of great information and I use electrical contact cleaner for delicate electronics for cleaning my track which does a great job of cleaning and improving conductivity,also using the same method as you for cleaning locomotive wheels except I use electrical contact cleaner.👍😀😀🇬🇧🚂
Good shout thanks man :)
Larry I have a G Scale outdoors layout. I'd like to install some Keep Alives. My locos draw about 2-4 amps and I run 16 volts DCC track power. What size capacitors do you recommend?
Sorry, I saw your other posts in my email feed but for some reason they were not coming up in my comments management section until this one. It gets real complicated when you jack up the amperage and voltage like this as all the components need to be ramped up accordingly. In the original version they are designed for typical HO scale amps and volts So you’ll need to replace all components with those rated for the amps your motors pull and the voltages they require. I did another video (#31) on what goes into a stay alive device and gave some suggestions in it for modifying the circuit, so take a look at it. Many G scalers have gone to battery power using “Dead Rail” systems that use wireless tx/rx for communications and decoder interfaces and the battery for power.
Hi Larry. As you know, track cleaning materials is a minefield! One opinion against 70% IPA is that it means that the remaining 30% is water! Interestingly, as a means of overcoming power outages, you didn't mention stay-alives; yes, I know you have made a video about these, but I thought you may have mentioned them here.
Yes, there are always things I could add to these videos but I am trying to keep them under 30 minutes.
What I do is I have several Big Red Buttons around the room.
When pressed, all power to the whole layout is just cut off instantly -- trains, accessories, lighting, everything.
There's a key-operated reset switch that only I have the key to, to turn the power back on to the layout.
Ah yes the good old kill switch. What I like is the dead man switch that everybody has to keep depressed to keep power on. Build one into each throttle and if you let up on it, your train will come to a dead halt!
Please add an info on cleaniing car wheels - thx for the videos!
Will do.
How often is a DCC signal repeated on the bus? If I do a speed change from step 20 to 25 for a given loco, the command station will send out a digital packet with the address of the loco and the data to change to speed step 25. Now, if I don't touch anything, will the command station resend that digital packet from time to time and if it does resend, does it resend for all commands or just certain ones?
Where this comes into play is your comment about dirty track. What I thought I heard you say is that if a loco hits dirty track, it'll stop but once you move it, it will receive a new command and start running. My understanding is that the engine uses the AC current and converts that to DC for the motor and it simply uses the instruction it has received to determine how much DC current it gives to the motor. Now, if it hits dirty track, it'll loose the AC current so can't send any DC BUT, does it retain its last setting so that when it gets current again it'll go back to its prior setting - that "seems" to be what happens. Otherwise the system would have to be sending out speed instructions pretty much continuously, to all locos.
It all depends p the decoder. Many will just reset to step “0” and come to an abrupt halt until the next update command arrives. Some decoders on the other hand may have built in memory and will return to the last command they received. The frequency of updates varies with command station and the amount of data traffic on the bus. The more locos you have running the more data there is. It is a very complicated data communication protocol that we take for granted as long as it is working. Here are the specifics:
C: Frequency Of Packet Transmission
Packets sent to Digital Decoders should be repeated as frequently as possible, as a packet may have been lost due to noise or poor electrical conductivity between wheels and rails. Power may also be removed from the rails between the Packet End Bit and the Preamble of the next packet to allow for alternative command control formats. A Digital Decoder shall be able to act upon multiple packets addressed to it, provided the time between the packet end bit of the first packet and the packet start bit of the second packet are separated by at least 5 milliseconds. If a decoder receives a bit sequence with a missing or invalid data byte start bit, a missing or invalid packet end bit, or an incorrect error detection byte, it must recognize the next valid preamble sequence as the beginning of a new packet. Alternative command control formats are specifically allowed between the packet end bit and the start of the next preamble. Manufacturers of decoders are encouraged to provide automatic conversion for a variety of power signals and command control formats in addition to the NMRA digital signal (per S-9.1), provided that automatic conversion to these alternate power signals can be disabled. If automatic conversion is enabled, Digital Decoders must remain in digital mode and not convert to using any alternate power signal so long as the time between Packet Start Bits is less than or equal to 30 milliseconds in duration. If automatic conversion is disabled, Digital Decoders must remain in digital mode regardless of the timing of Packet Start Bits. It shall be possible to configure Digital Command Stations to transmit at least one complete packet every 30 milliseconds as measured from the time between packet start bits.
May I ask the make and model of the Southern locomotive 2143 in your opening and do you know if it still available new?
That is an Atlas Alco RS3 and a one of a kind paint job I did about 30 years ago. The models are still made by Atlas and also readily available on ebay. They did at least one run in that paint scheme but a different number although it is rare as a result and only comes up occasionally for sale.
Hi can you fix the issue because I just touch cv224 and then 1 and now my Alco PA Paragon 2 won't even move and start DCC and sound
I have no idea what you have changed in the process so your best bet is to open your manual and look for factory reset, then do it. That should get you back to operations just like when it came out of the box.
@@TheDCCGuy thanks for the information
Hi Larry,
How do you clean your wagon and coach wheels?
Keep the videos coming.
Dave.
You can manually run them across the cloth on the rails just like for the locos. If the gunk is caked in then you need to go over them with the blade of a pen knife. I replace all plastic wheels with nickel plated ones from Intermountain and then keep them clean with the cloth method.
How about silver tarnish remover or Brasso?
Does it matter if track feeders are of two different gauges? Eg. Smaller gauge on turnouts or small sections and slightly larger gauge on long track sections. Both of these gauges running off the same bus line?
No, but remember that as wire diameter decreases resistance goes up. The way to counter this is to keep those small diameter wires as short as possible.
@@TheDCCGuy thanks. I'll keep that in mind.
Every product I've ever heard of regarding cleaning track and such is too abrasive, too lubricating, leaves a film, or will attack my plastic ties or traction tires. I'm just using a cotton sock on track whenever I encounter a dirty section. Period. I am given to understand that on my N scale track, the nickel silver's oxide is more conductive than any of those films. What do you think?
That’s what I have always read. However in my opinion it is the other dirt, grease, dust, cat hair, oil, glue, paint, foam scatter, static grass that causes most of the big issues. Interesting a lot of household dust is dead human skin cells that just naturally sough off over time-they gotta go somewhere!
Sorry, not true on Laptop's since they have a battery. And can run for a while before a shutdown!!
So, why hasn't anyone made a miniature battery backup (UPS) to install in locos?
They’re called keep alives. There also are systems called dead rails that use batteries in the locos but space as always is the issue as you need a battery and decoder/receiver. They are very popular with garden railway types and O scalers.
@@TheDCCGuy Or current extenders and other names used by the various manufacturers, There doesn't yet seem to be an accepted generic name for these capacitor systems that provide power for short time periods.
i think the band wagon effect is what is going on with the No lox, ( spelling ) that Ron's trains and things is telling everyone to use. like you said it is a grease. I will stick with 99% alcohol and rub it on rub it off. the other thing I use is track cleaner,, sold just like that and with that name .. imagine that TRACK CLEANER to clean the rails.
Don't let your cats sleep on your layout. Huge mistake.
Yeah, and don't use kitty litter for ballast!
Lebell 108 oil.
Great Video thank you, might help some people if you put links to your wiring videos in your comments at the top of the page.
I only get to put in so many links like those and so I have to pick and choose.
@@TheDCCGuy I understand that for linking videos but in the description above the comments even if you refer to some video numbers. You have over 40 great videos in your wiring section so for a beginner it might be hard to find a good basic one or one with a general overview. They appear to be listed in date order rather than a logical order one would do things in.
Get rid of all your plastic wheels. They love to pick up and lay down dirt.
I would like to give this 20 thumbs up and I do not use anything but nickel silver wheels on everything, no coated wheel sets.
Rubbing alcohol causes a corrosion to the rails ....
WHY DOESN'T EVERY BODY USE
ELECTRICAL CONTACT CLEANER
DAH !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
As I said in the video I avoid toxic organics as much as possible. Read the label on your contact cleaner.
You just can't go wrong with some rubbing alcohol.
I always tell everyone. If you think your track is clean, clean it again.