I watched a video from Precision Transmission and they talked about gluing the washers onto the torque converter to make them easier to install. Just an interesting tip from an old transmission guy.
I did that after my first rebuild over a month ago..not one hiccup and tonight lost all gears. Got it off the road into a parking lot and will grab it tomm..I have no clue yet..tc was clearances right, and locked into pump 3 times..its been driving for over a month..hard pulls etc..not one bump slip or noise..I hope it's an easy fix/find.
I think i did this to my 4l60. Was burning out from a stop and when it commanded 2nd gear shift it was like i went to neutral. No funny noises. No leaks. No noise or movement when i move my gear shifter and even though linkage is still moving.
TCS Products Canada makes a great quality pump rotor for both the 4L60 and 6L80/90 transmission. I like that theirs comes in nitrided black to ensure it holds up better than the OEM rotor.
I put a little gasket maker on each spacer and stuck them to the torque convertor right over the bolt holes. I've used this method twice and plan on using it a third time. I wish these transmissions where built stronger so I didn't have to keep pulling it and fixing weak ass components.
good job bro. very informative. i think i have a pump failure as well. originally i didnt have reverse unless i revved up the motor and then 50% of the time it would slam into reverse or pop in and out of reverse (from low line pressure is my belief). but eventually i have lost all forward and reverse gears and the transmission was making this constant sound of what seemed like dragging your fingers across a chalk board (i think this is a piece of the rotor that is broke off and scraping the inside of the pump). i got the transmission out and am about to disassemble the pump to see what i can find. thanks for the very informative video. keep up the good work!
I'm almost sure the pump broke in my 2004 trailblazer. A guy started rolling out at a stop sign and I hit the brake, then when I hit the gas all the gears were gone. Maybe the flexplate bent enough for the hub to pull away from the pump for an instant.
Hello I need your help plz I have 4l60e slipping on 2 n 3 n 4 when rpm go more than 2000 1 n R working verry good I put a pressure gauge on the line pressure I have 60 psi on P N D321 and 35 go to 90 on R What do you think Thanks for your help
Fortunately not, it basically just goes out completely and the pump stops working, then you just literally have no gears, and there was no reason to keep it running after that and we just tore it back down
So my 2001 Chevy Silverado 4.8 extended cab 2wd burning fluid not running codes burns fluid even right after changing filter fluid etc. driving one day I lost high gears acts like in neutral when driving. Now I now longer have the low gears or reverse. If I shut it off and let it sit I can drive it for a few minutes and than it acts like it’s in neutral again. Is this the pump
When you install the transmission, the converter is inside the transmission pump, but it's not actually attached, it's just sitting inside. Then you bolt the converter to the flex plate/flywheel, which causes the converter to be pulled out of the pump (normal). If you pull it too far, you get the problem we had, so you need to make sure the flex plate is shimmed so that the converter distance from the flex plate isn't too much
I thought the 4l60es for ls1 need the 300mm pump I’m about to change mine how do I know what pump to order anyone know? Gear box was a replacement and I’m not sure what it originally came out of
It looks like they stopped making the 10 vane ones :( But, they do make a bullet 13 vane which is still going to be way stronger than a stock one www.ckperformance.com/View/4L60E4L65E4L70E-13-VANE-BILLET-PUMP-ROTOR-KIT
I was driving My 06 trailblazer on the freeway with cruise control on and it was like I put it in N I just slowed down so i pulled over and now it's like im in N when I pit it in 1 2 D or R SOME1 HELP ME PLZ what would make ot do that? Fluid looks brand new btw
Super glue the shims to hold them in place. Pro tip of the day
I watched a video from Precision Transmission and they talked about gluing the washers onto the torque converter to make them easier to install. Just an interesting tip from an old transmission guy.
That makes a lot of sense, definitely sounds easier than what we were doing...
I did that after my first rebuild over a month ago..not one hiccup and tonight lost all gears. Got it off the road into a parking lot and will grab it tomm..I have no clue yet..tc was clearances right, and locked into pump 3 times..its been driving for over a month..hard pulls etc..not one bump slip or noise..I hope it's an easy fix/find.
I think i did this to my 4l60. Was burning out from a stop and when it commanded 2nd gear shift it was like i went to neutral. No funny noises. No leaks. No noise or movement when i move my gear shifter and even though linkage is still moving.
TCS Products Canada makes a great quality pump rotor for both the 4L60 and 6L80/90 transmission. I like that theirs comes in nitrided black to ensure it holds up better than the OEM rotor.
I put a little gasket maker on each spacer and stuck them to the torque convertor right over the bolt holes. I've used this method twice and plan on using it a third time. I wish these transmissions where built stronger so I didn't have to keep pulling it and fixing weak ass components.
good job bro. very informative. i think i have a pump failure as well. originally i didnt have reverse unless i revved up the motor and then 50% of the time it would slam into reverse or pop in and out of reverse (from low line pressure is my belief). but eventually i have lost all forward and reverse gears and the transmission was making this constant sound of what seemed like dragging your fingers across a chalk board (i think this is a piece of the rotor that is broke off and scraping the inside of the pump). i got the transmission out and am about to disassemble the pump to see what i can find. thanks for the very informative video. keep up the good work!
Had this same issue. Great video and info!!
I'm almost sure the pump broke in my 2004 trailblazer. A guy started rolling out at a stop sign and I hit the brake, then when I hit the gas all the gears were gone. Maybe the flexplate bent enough for the hub to pull away from the pump for an instant.
Great job keep up the good work.
Thanks for the info bro. What causes the pump to do that?
Improperly shimmed flex plate is what did it in ours. We didn't shim our flex plate at all and so the torque converter gets pulled out too far
Hello I need your help plz
I have 4l60e slipping on 2 n 3 n 4 when rpm go more than 2000
1 n R working verry good I put a pressure gauge on the line pressure I have 60 psi on P N D321 and 35 go to 90 on R
What do you think
Thanks for your help
Would the rotor shattering like that destroy all the new clutches and stuff that you just put in?
Fortunately not, it basically just goes out completely and the pump stops working, then you just literally have no gears, and there was no reason to keep it running after that and we just tore it back down
Good video
So my 2001 Chevy Silverado 4.8 extended cab 2wd burning fluid not running codes burns fluid even right after changing filter fluid etc. driving one day I lost high gears acts like in neutral when driving. Now I now longer have the low gears or reverse. If I shut it off and let it sit I can drive it for a few minutes and than it acts like it’s in neutral again. Is this the pump
Im having this problem right now, what did you do to fix it?
Good afternoon. And for what reason is the displacement of the converter from the pump?
When you install the transmission, the converter is inside the transmission pump, but it's not actually attached, it's just sitting inside. Then you bolt the converter to the flex plate/flywheel, which causes the converter to be pulled out of the pump (normal). If you pull it too far, you get the problem we had, so you need to make sure the flex plate is shimmed so that the converter distance from the flex plate isn't too much
I thought the 4l60es for ls1 need the 300mm pump I’m about to change mine how do I know what pump to order anyone know? Gear box was a replacement and I’m not sure what it originally came out of
Not sure if the pump for LS1s is different at all, but ours was for an engine from a Suburban, a Vortec engine, or L31
So so when I took my old one out it had no shims. So when install it again.. 3rd times a charm...I have to shim it to meet the spec's
If everything is still stock and didn't have shims then you shouldn't need them, but this video should help ruclips.net/video/d6R3SG0HxBA/видео.html
I tried the link for the 10 vein rotor. Its not working. Also what size were the washers
It looks like they stopped making the 10 vane ones :( But, they do make a bullet 13 vane which is still going to be way stronger than a stock one www.ckperformance.com/View/4L60E4L65E4L70E-13-VANE-BILLET-PUMP-ROTOR-KIT
I'll have to get back though about the washer sizes, I'm not sure off the top of my head
There is a 4 Vein Superior, Inferior,
and 2 Pulmonary, butt itt only works
with a heart pumpé
I was driving My 06 trailblazer on the freeway with cruise control on and it was like I put it in N I just slowed down so i pulled over and now it's like im in N when I pit it in 1 2 D or R SOME1 HELP ME PLZ what would make ot do that? Fluid looks brand new btw
Happened to me, turned out to be the pump.
Are you Colby Convington’s nicer brother?
No clue who that is