Porsche 997/996 Eibach Springs Installation w/o spring compressors, min work
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- In this video, I cover the change-out of the stock springs on a 2005 911 Carrera S with PASM to the Eibach Progressive Pro-Kit springs. Parts were bought on eBay and at the dealership. If your shocks are in good shape, this is a nice conversion for your Carrera or Carrera S. These instructions apply to the 2 Wheel Drive 996, 997, and some of it can transition to the 991. Please excuse the Nikon autofocusing sounds in the background and feel free to skip around the video to points of interest. I cover the front strut (without spring compressors) and then move to the rear strut (use of spring compressors.) The conversion lowers your vehicle by about an inch to 1.2 inches. The ride wasn't compromised much with these springs, Eibach does a good job with the progressive nature of their springs. When you remove the stock spring the new Eibach spring will look taller, but will in the end lower the vehicle. This video is commercial-free so there is no compensation for me, just trying to help the enthusiast community.
Thanks so much for the detailed video - a circlip had broken and the lower perch fallen on my right rear on my 996 Targa. I probably watched this 10 times to help get everything off and back on the car!
Glad it helped!
Thank you. I needed an introductory and you were very considerate to be so detailed.
Thanks so much for this video. I just did my 997.2 C4S and other than the front brake wire bracket and Bose subwoofer it was exactly the same process. Very easy to do with the correct tools and a buddy. On the 997.2 with PASM, front strut nut is 21mm and rears are 19mm. Everything else was the same as this video!
Thanks again!
Glad it helped and saved $$
Does the axle nut not need to come out for AWD?
Great video Dan! I am in process of buying a 2005 Carrera S. Learning a lot about the car from you. Thanks!!
Fantastic, the 997 is such a capable car and one of the better daily drivers too. Have fun!
Thank you Dan for this video. I'll be attempting this project on my C4S in the next few weeks here so having this DIY guide will come in handy!
Good luck, I hope it will help. Go slowly, it's best when you're not pressed for time.
@@SirFixAlotAutos, I'll definitely keep you posted!
Excellent video Dan, very helpful. I replaced one front strut on my 997 turbo but missed transferring the small washer from the old one and had to redo it. The top nut is offset because of the drive axle on the turbo/4 wheel drive and I didn't have enough side clearance for the socket to remove it. But I used a modified version of your video to do it and saved a lot of time nonetheless. Thank you.
One of the best instructional videos i ever seen, thanks a lot man
Thanks for the kind words. Hope it helps save some $$.
Excellent demonstration thanks I’m going to do my 997 now,
Thanks for your great videos Dan....appreciate your narration and straight forward approach!.
Thank you for your kind and supportive comments.
Genius!!! That's how I'm gonna do it next time !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks Clint, normally I don't like to go outside of the factory procedure, but was looking to just save a little time. It's not for everyone ;)
Liked just cause of music and “Tsuchiya”
Thanks for the kind comments, hope this helps when replacing anything suspension-wise on the 996/997 and saves $$. I was very happy with the quality of the "free" rental from O'Reilly's on the spring compressors. Keep wrenching.
Those springs make me nervous. I need to get a full suspension refresh on my 997 so I am looking to see how doable it is if I go at it on my own rather than have a shop do it. Thanks for the video. Very well done.
Nice work Dan.
8/28/2023 Update - wrote my comments below 6 months ago and can tell you I was wrong. This is the best video to watch if you want to remove the front springs with minimal hassle. Great for a backyard mechanic. I'm about to tackle the rears now and it does look to be easier if you follow this video. Apologies for being clearly wrong in my earlier statements. However, I am confused at around 21:30 you indicate the need for a ball joint removal tool, but later in the video you claim it will just pop out. So, is the ball joint removal tool necessary or not?
So this video is now 4 years old and there's one done by FCP Euro that's 5 months old as of this writing. 2 things - 1 - don't follow this video to save time, you wont. 2 - I've been there in terms of using the autozone spring compressor or HF compressor (same thing really). These things are a PIA if you're using them insitu (look it up). However, you can remove all 4 struts, then use the compressors while the struts are out of the car to do the spring swap. Easy Peasy.
Great stuff as always Dan ,, very informative,, thanks ..
Excellent video! I have ordered the same springs for my 997.2 turbo. Now that I see how much labor is involved, I am concerned about letting someone else do it for me.
Great and educative video!
Great video thanks for the upload, some before and after ride height pic would have been good
I no longer have the car, but I'll take that advice when I do this to a future (yet to be owned) 991. Rest assured, the ride height looked great, it lowered the car about an inch and it sat well front to rear, not super rakish.
Brilliant info
Thanks Jack, hope it will help. A bit unconventional at the front, but an interesting watch nonetheless.
Great write up. Do you mind sharing the parts list with #s. That would greatly help. Thanks.
I don't have the part numbers (I don't even have the car anymore), but you can get the springs P/N from the Eibach website. For OEM parts investigate online through Sunset Porsche or other dealer sites. Your needs may vary depending on the condition of your suspension, the year, and the model of your car.
dan -how did your story end up? what was the ride like with the 997? was it much harsher? did you find improved handling? or, did you do this mostly for aesthetics? thanks for the great video!
The Eibach springs are a great set up, the ride did not become noticeable harsher. The handling improvement will be slight but if you get the car realigned afterward and go for a more aggressive camber setting, your handling will improve a lot....but your inside tires will wear more quickly (there are trade-offs.) I think from an aesthetic standpoint it noticeably improved. Though I don't show it in my video, the addition of OZ Ultraleggera wheels also helped. Good Luck.
@@SirFixAlotAutos thanks for your feedback. i've heard positive things on the Eibach. some 997 owners believe they don't lower enough (aesthetics). and while i've heard some complaints about harsh ride for the H&Rs, many said they were fine and they prefer the more aggressive, lower sitting of H&R springs
@@jberkley17 I've tried the H&R's and though they are more aggressive, the ride for the street is a bit compromised. I was looking for 90% street use, so I went with the Eibachs. From an S suspension the lowering was about half an inch, it will be more from a non-S suspension. For the OZ wheels I also added 15 mm (back) and 7.5mm (front) spacers to add to the look.
@@SirFixAlotAutos i have 997.2S Cab so sounds like a should expect only about half an inch lower. but i'm worried about having a too harsh ride because it's my daily driver and because i want my wife to ride in it. she likes it now and i never turn Sport mode on when she's in the car :-). i would like to reduce body roll but probably prioritize looks; that is, getting a lower more aggressive stance and less wheel gap especially in the rear which is more pronounced in the Cab. appreciate your feedback.
@@jberkley17 Eibach and H&R don't make spring specifically for the cab, though the Eibachs will lower the car, it will lower it in unison so you may still have that gap back there. For the reduction of body roll, utilize factory GT3 Anti Roll bars, they will reduce roll quite a bit and won't make the ride harsh. Since you have PASM, if you really want to set it up for a good ride and be lowered and get rid of the rear gap, go for the Bilstein B-16 coilover suspension. I did this with another 997 (with GT3 sways) and the ride with PASM is great. Then add the DSC V3 Sport controller for PASM and you will have a wonderful ride with all of your lowering issues solved.
Have owned my 997.2 for 5 years now and hated the 4x4 look. Didn’t want to pay dealership prices which if I remember correctly we’re nearly $2,000 plus the cost of the alignment. This video gave me the confidence to order the springs this evening. Are the Eibach or TecArt less aggressive? I’d like to error on the conservative side.
Not sure about TechArt, but the Eibach's tend to have a better ride than the H&Rs. Good Luck!
Great video! I am thinking of doing this on my 986, do you know if I can do this with the stock struts? Thanks
You can, as long as the springs specify your Boxster. If you have more than 70-80k miles on the stock shocks, it's best to upgrade the shocks.
Dan, can you confirm the size of the nut on top of the struts for the front and the back? Is it 21mm for the front and 19mm for the rear nuts? I have a 2007 turbo with PASM and am replacing the shocks/struts and I think they would be the same size.
Mike, they are NOT the same size if you are talking about the center nut for the strut. I believe my fronts were like 21/22mm and the rears were smaller on my PASM shocks at 15mm, I was surprised myself. The fronts are obviously easy to check, but the rears require that you remove the rear package tray. Remember for the rears you are going to have to remove the entire assembly before removing the nut unless you want to disassemble the lower control arms. A good impact gun during disassembly will be a time saver. Good Luck.
Basically the same for the boxsters and caymans , very interesting, Well done , I mite be doing my springs at some point , hows the ride now with the new springs fitted ?
I liked the Eibachs, they seem to less harsh vs the H&Rs. I think the PASM settings are a must for these 997's. I have since sold the car, but hear no complaints from the new owner.
Great video! The previous owner of my 996 C2 fitted Pro Kit but it made the car really low, wheels almost touching the fender. He didn't replace shocks, broken bump stops, top hats etc. Will I get a better result by replacing the remaining parts? Rather than dishing out for new coilovers.
Great question. Going stock will be less expensive especially if you can find some good used stock springs, you'll still need to purchase new shocks , tops hats and bump stops...that will provide you stock ride height and comfort. Coilovers will be more expensive as you'll want to stay with top European brands like Bilstein or Ohlins. These will provide height adjustability but won't be as plush as stock. I think a good compromise would be to purchase new shocks (Bilsteins are fine) factory bump stops, top ring, top bearing, top hats, and the Eibach springs. Study the stock strut assembly diagrams to make sure you replace all rubber and bearing parts. It lowers the 996 a little bit but still maintains a decent ride. Going too stiff in these 996/997 just brings out the rattles. Good luck.
Hi Dan, thanks for your great tutorial. I need to replace the front bump stops only on a 12k mile '08 997.1, they have degraded with age and are falling apart, the springs are stock . Do you think it would be possible to just remove the top main shock shaft nut only and push the disconnected shaft down enough to feed the new bump stops through the springs, so removing the top strut mount/plate from the body would not be necessary? It appears there is plenty of room between the spring coils to fit the new bump stops through.
Hey Joseph, with only 12k miles, it's hard to believe the bump stops are falling apart with stock springs. Are you sure the front shocks don't need replacement? If those are not operating correctly, it will unnecessarily work the bump stops so you might want to check there. Back to your question. There's a lot more room in the rear to do something like that, in the front, the stock spring is very tall, so tall that the strut takes up the entire space even when you lift the car up. You'll see this when you remove the three top bolts-the suspension doesn't drop much. You'll need to disconnect the sway bar also. In the video, you can see I disconnected the bottom to get enough clearance to remove the front strut. Another way to go about it is to disconnect (loosen) the A-Arms so the strut drops, but then you'll need to re-index the ride height. I felt the entire front strut removal was the lesser of two evils. Good Luck.
@@SirFixAlotAutos Thanks for your reply, the car was in storage for many years in FL. so it may have been the humidity that degraded the bump stops, hard to say.
Hi Dan, excellent video! Quick question, would this work if I just want to replace the bump stop and boot?
You can, in order not to have to re-align, mark where the front strut tops are bolted down (location-wise) before you remove. Always inspect the shocks when you disassemble, a lot of times when the boots and bump stops wear the shocks may have some leaks and should also be replaced. Good Luck
Any idea on where to get the tool to loosen the nut on the top of strut tower.
Like these? www.amazon.com/Laser-Difficult-Access-Socket-6pack/dp/B00449B3W2/ if you have PASM, if no wire, you can use a regular socket with a reversible impact gun.
Thanks Dan for this video, one question, why did you remove the upper plate for reassembly instead of using the same method used for removal? Would you have been able to put the new spring in the strut with all the other components and re-insert the strut shaft to the upper plate without removing it?
Good question, I found that working the spring pressure and trying to line the strut tube threaded top through the spring plate (top hat) was tough. You can muscle it in there but I just felt it was easier to compress the spring with the top hat and then just worry about aligning the three studs coming off the top hat. I was also installing new top hats.
It took me 8 hours to change my springs out.
My body is sore asf.
I am debating if I want to tackle this or pay the shop $1200 to install and alignment
Shane Piers The front was easy, the rear was a pita. For 1200 I would have paid that. halfway through I was regretting not taking it to the shop.
I assume this procedure will work in reverse? I have a 2009 C2 non PASM that I am replacing the lowered springs with OEM and a few other components that need refreshing. I was following another set of instructions I had today, but I could not get the tie rod disconnected after removing the nut. Wouldn't budge on either side. I gave up but will try this tomorrow. My only concern is not having room to get under there and re-tighten the lower control arm once the wheel is back on and the suspension is loaded. Thanks.
It's possible but much more difficult and dangerous since there is quite a bit of spring compression you need to do with a jack under the hub carrier and things could go haywire. It's easy to remove but not easy to center the top of the strut with the top place using a stock OEM spring. I would suggest using spring compressors to completely assemble the spring onto the strut with the top plate in place. With this route, you will unfortunately need to disconnect the tie rod....it will be a traditional route as other videos show you how to do this. You will need a good ball joint separator to undo that part: www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Ball-Joint-Separator-Arms-Tie-Rods-Ball-Joints-Removal-Tool-Kit-Set/123612844345?hash=item1cc7e65139:g:~jkAAOSwxLFcS6zo:rk:41:pf:0 . O-Reilly's rents the spring compressor and they probably have the ball joint separator or you can buy one on eBay.
Hi, thank you for this video, but i have question. I need to replace only strut mounts and bearings, can I use this tutorial on this procedure? Its mean i will put back the original springs. My car is carrera s 997, pasm. Thank you!
For the rear it should work as you are removing the full strut. For the front, as I explained to Kenneth Johnston it will be difficult to reassemble without the removal of the whole strut and using spring compressors.
Besides the springs themselves, where did you acquire the additional replacement parts? Bumps, top hats, etc...
Thanks
Places like Suncoast, Gaudin, SunsetPorscheParts, AutoHaus AZ or FCPEuro are great places to pick up OEM or high-quality aftermarket parts. Good Luck!
whats the point of sticking the screwdriver in ?
Keeps the shock shaft from spinning. Not necessary when working with an impact wrench.
@@SirFixAlotAutos do you happen to know if that method of using a screwdriver to keep the shock shaft from turning works on a 986 as well?
Do you have a parts number list of all the parts like bump stops that you bought?
Sorry I don't, but you can look them up at Gaudin: www.gaudinporscheparts.com/. Great source for OEM dealer parts. They have diagrams to help locate the part.
@@SirFixAlotAutos Thanks!
Should you be riding on the bump stops? I see many people trim them when installing lowering springs otherwise the shock isn't allowed to travel like it should be.
You shouldn't be riding on the bump stops and lowering with just Eibach springs still allows for some distance, through it is relatively close. It's your option to trim them, but the only issue is they quickly get out of shape and kind of flop around....again, your option. Maybe taking an inch out of the middle and then gluing them back together might be better than a trim off one end. Another way to go is to source shorter bump stops. I haven't tracked the car, street-wise it's fine but I would think it would be at the limit for track use with stock bump stops.
@@SirFixAlotAutos Thanks Dan. I also put on Bilstein B8's, and the shaft is about 1.5 inches shorter than stock, so that's part of the problem, too. Looks like I will have to experiment a bit. The B8's for the 996 turbo are twin, not mono tube, and therefore don't have the internal bump stop as most of the B8's do. At this point I think it's better to stick with stock or go the coil over route where everything has been designed to work together, but I am not giving up yet.
@@davidschwalm7441 Your observation is correct stock or proper coil over route, but good luck with the B8's. Sorry can't help there.
Thanks Dan - will this work on a Carrera4? Do you have to loosen or do anything with the front drive shafts?
The Carrera4 has a different front hub and A-arm setup. In addition to disconnecting the drive axles, I am not sure the strut will "swing" out like on the C2 Carreras. You might have to remove the strut the traditional way. With regards to the spring removal and installation, that part will likely be similar. Sorry, could not be of more help as I have not owned a C4 before.
Were you able to use these same instructions for the C4?
How do you tighten the top nut on the rear shock all the way down without the threaded part spinning? Thanks
I used the impact gun, you just need it to hit the limit (or get close to) of the thread on the strut. Just enough to keep it from making noise, The nut as you know is nylon-locked, just add a little thread locker and it should be fine.
Thank you. What size is the nut that you use the open-ended socket with the PASM wire?
I believe it's 21mm upfront and 15 mm for the rear. Double-check before you order tools with a measuring caliper or any matching socket or open-end wrench. Good luck.
Hi, I remember you installing b16 Billstein at some point before, do you not use them anymore, is stock better?
Hi Shah, I wanted to show a less expensive route that's all. The B16's are great because it's a completely new system and they work with the PASM suspension. The Eibachs give the look and decent performance but not to the level of the B16 Bilsteins.
Hi Dan, would this process work on the 987.1 Cayman??
The springs are different so you have to purchase those for the Cayman. The procedure is roughly the same for the front and the rear will have different access for the top (since there is no back seat) so you will come in from the rear hatch opening. I believe someone has done a 987.2 video on YT, so you can graft the procedures together. The 997 and 987 suspensions are pretty close from a design perspective. Good Luck!
Dan Tsuchiya thank you for your input. I’m going to try and fit an H&R spring on my 08 987.1 S. Awesome and very detailed video.
not getting any audio
Seems to be working for me, check audio on RUclips itself, sometimes that's set as mute.
@@SirFixAlotAutos Thanks Dan, must be a local issue. Got it working fine on my iphone.
Great stuff as always Dan ,, very informative,, thanks ..
Great stuff as always Dan ,, very informative,, thanks ..
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