Blending paint jobs to hide your repairs
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- Today is a blending day. We want to avoid masking tape edges, you're better off blending an imperfect colour than masking a a perfect one.
Music thank to @motutara.sounds --------------------------------------------
If you wanna check out memberships there is a ''join'' button on my channel or you can click this ere link - / @smallkinedings
Once you sign up, you'll wanna join this super secret members only facebook page - / 966305518417568
You'll get first look at new videos before they go public and we can go over your own repairs through that page as well.
There are always members only videos being posted up on youtube too which only you members will have access to.
---------------------------------------------
Very nice! Awesome you got to get away to Hawaii! My daughter & son in law took me to Oahu in April - something I had wanted to do for a long time. Your videos are greatly appreciated!
Very happy to be back, stoked you got a chance to come out too. Very special place to see with our own eyes!
awesome job with the color match, I'm repairing a Torq now and matching the pale blue has been a nightmare. also, i used to work at the hostel right across the street from that wave, we would surf it all the time after a long day surfing all the other spot. nothing beats the North Shore!
Blues can definitely be a hassle. The bigger area you leave for blending the easier it is to hide! Nice, how was working there? Have stayed there a bunch of times and had some odd encounters 😂 I lived in the trees by the bus stop for a month+ years ago too with my hammock . Its my favorite place on the whole island
wish I'd seen this before i stuffed up the respray on a mates repair last week!
Gutted! Good thing about paint is it's removable!
loving tour channel. Great repairs and tips. seen so many board repairs do average home repairs but charge silly money.
have you done many LFT slater design surfboard repairs ? how are they to work on ? I noticed you had a firewire in your rack
Cheers man, glad it's of value!
Yea, have done a fair amount of LFTs but no matter the label, they are all just epoxy boards and repairs with fancy names to help sell them. The only thing to watch out for with the LFTs is the glass is quite thin so you wanna sand very slowly around repairs (especially on rails) because it's easy to reach foam next to your newly finished repair if you go tumeke with the orbital
Absolutely love your videos. They have helped me learn a ton and I sincerely appreciate your attention to detail. You always do the job "right" no matter the amount of extra effort. That's something to aspire to in my own work. I had a question for you to try and unbugger my own mistake. I got it in my head that I could epoxy gloss coat over a water based spray paint. When I did it fisheyed to heck and I ended up sanding all the gloss and paint off. However I can see that some of the paint has penetrated the weave of the glass and I am worried that If i try and gloss again it will all fisheye. In this scenario should I sand it even further back, re-glass, seal coat, paint, clear? Or is there another way? I have heard some people pour a sacrificial amount of epoxy on, squeegee it off, and then gloss. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Gday bud! Really appreciate the feedback and I'm stoked to hear that yhe videos have been helpful, that's what it's all about!
In regards to your problem. If you only have small speckles of paint left in the weave of your cloth you would probably be OK to coat it again. Even if you only get a couple of fish eyes on your next coat, you could sand them out individually and touch them up. If they are a bit more than small speckles, it's gonna look crappy or you just really want them gone then I would sand them away and reglass if you need to. The "cheater coat" sounds like a reasonable idea but I haven't personally used it. I'd say you'll be OK to coat again though if you've managed to get rid of the vast majority of it
Ohhhhhh, someone's got cash to burn- A Dan Mann AND Endorfins in it 😂
Have the best time, yewww!
Oo yes! To his credit, the guy surfs at a VERY high level, no kook!
Cheers bro!
Well done, great looking repair there. I have probably missed the vid, but where do you source your molotow paint from ? I've been googling it, but keep coming up with UK sites. Thanks Bro.
Your local art stores or graffiti specific stores will stock it 🤙
Great job. Did you have the paint color code before you started or did you just get lucky with what you had on hand in the shop?
Molotow have a booklet of collier pallets so I always check with that before working on a board and order the paint in if needed while doing the repair stages 🤙
Kiaora man! loving the chanel thanks for sharing so much info, i'm currently restoring my first custom board back to life and im wanting to paint the whole board white again after the repairs are complete, my only concern is the paint may slowly wear off, do you ever paint then hot coat over the top or is there any other technique you would recommend? Board is PU and sorry if you have answered this in another video.
Kiaora! Fun stuff man! If you are reglassing the whole board after your repairs, I would lay the paint underneath the glass, can be quite tricky though if you haven't done before, especially with white.
Under the hot coat is doable but becomes a bit of a nightmare if you sand through during the final sand stages as you don't just have a paint patch to fix and blend but a resin patch too.
Painting on top should last a long time if the boards prepared well, also easier to correct mistakes with paint in top as you are only dealing with the one material.
Maybe not much help, but those are the possible options 🥭
@@smallkinedingsnah man massive help! Think I might just paint on top like you say, thanks a lot for the advice, saves me making a mess of it!
Hoping to get your opinion on something - I'm a beginner shaper, and after laminating, I did resin pin lines to mask imperfections on the cut lap. I did not seal coat prior, and I created a mess - the resin bleed through the fiberglass weave leaving the board looking like sh**. I feel my options are either a.) to seal coat the board, sand and then paint and clear coat, or b.) sand the pin lines and then paint the lam, and seal coat. Is either option better than the other? Or do both options work equally as well? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Dam, know those feels! So painting the laminate is pretty hard and unideal. Very difficult to get an even job over cloth weave, cloth edges and pooled resin. Then you also run the risk in your final sand of going through the hot coat in places and sanding your paint away and once that's done, it's impossible to match the paints texture as you wont be spraying over the same surface. Sanding poly laminate is doable but very frustrating.
In this situation, I would carry on as normal and finish the board to a wet sanded 600. Once that's done I'd do a paint job to hide the mistakes, clear coat and then sand everything starting at 800 wet and going to whatever grit you like for polishing.
My favorite paint job for a mistake like this is an unmasked rail band. Very easy to prep for as you don't need any masking. Paint the rails but allow the overspray to mist in towards the stringer as far as necessary to cover the problem area.
Thanks for sharing and thanks for the content! My new paint job came out great
@@davidschindewolf happy to hear it!
You don’t use epoxy primer?
I always use epoxy primer bc I was told otherwise the paint doesn’t stick that well, but the primer is very thick, so sometimes a bit difficult with thickness.
Also, I know some that refuse to repair the tuflite boards🤓😄
The only times I use a primer is if there are some minor defects that will likely show through my paint, then I prime and sand before hand. This will usually be on a job that's not over a repair though, maybe touching up paint chips for instance. Or, if the colour I'm spraying has poor coverage. Other than that, raw dogging! If the area is prepped well, and you're using good poduct there shouldn't be any adhesion issues.
I've heard of people who don't touch tuff lites too. Not sure why, there are way worse boards to work on than these for sure
is there a molotow spray can that is somewhat close to Nsp boards blue Pantone 299c ? thanks
100%, over 275 colours available with a tonne of blues.
This technique only applies to boards that are painted after laminating and hotcoatinf?
Yea, it will mainly apply to epoxy construction as 98.9% of them are paint atop glass. You can use the same blending technique under glass though if it's a large enough repair, something like a major delam or really bad snap. The only difference in that case though is your cloth during lamination is replacing your clear coat. You still want to feather that colour out into the original paint and then cloth beyond that the same as you would the clear in this example.
@@smallkinedings still need to sand underneath the spray paint and on top of the spray for the lamination to adhere right?
@@dmac5678 so normally I'd get the repair all done and ready to glass with your foam, qcell, whatever you're prepping to lam with so thats 120 sanded anyway to get it to that stage. Then sand well beyond the repair like in this video but only with 120, so that your lam and hotcoat has adhesion. Once I've sprayed I'll let the paint tack off for 10ish minutes, you want it touch dry but not cured so your resin can adhere but the paint won't run under the resin. You want as light a paint job as possible while still getting coverage because you don't wanna totally fill your sanding work with paint
What type of paint are you using please? Sorry if I missed this on the video. Thanks
Molotow. The king of aerosols