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@@TonyYorke-it1xf another one. You're wrong. Not just according to me, according to our local professional boat operators, our coast guard, our life club. 1. Not a shipping channel, it's a boating channel. 2. He was never in the boating channel. 3. Regardless of weather or not there were surfers in the water, this was a terrible crossing. That had nothing to do with any surfers. 3. Whenever a compete amateur like this guy (and based on your comment, I'm assuming you too) gets into trouble on this bar, it is ALWAYS the surfers that come to the rescue. Our local surfers have saved many lives out there, many of those surfers are also our local life guards. This is not a "surfer vs boatie" issue, this is a rubbish ocean goer vs other ocean goers minding their own business. I would suggest you go and look up some of coastguards upcoming courses on bar crossings, they have many popping up around the country and it sounds like you would really benefit from it.

Bang on! So unfortunately most blank companies measure their densities in lb/cubic foot so conversion is needed into KG/ cubic meter. Blanks will generally range from 1.82lb (29kg) to 3.39lb (54kg). This depends largely on the blank manufacturer and what they provide as well as EPS vs poly foam. Once the foam is sanded or planed into though it becomes softer and softer towards the middle so 56kg foam is what I've found to be a closest match to your average PU blank after working it 🤙 I have a 64kg foam too but generally I only use it for very large repairs as it's still incredibly hard even after working on it

Thanks so much for the answer!

@@REDboardriders proven by who though I wonder? People who sell epoxy boards? No ding repairer I've ever spoken to would agree, outside of moulded technologies perhaps but even the big boys like Global Surf Industries are transitioning back over to traditional PU and poly. Unarguably weaker foam, no wooden stringers, same glass schedules as traditional PU and epoxy isn't that notabley stronger than poly in such light lay ups, not enough to make up for the EPS core. I'd be suspicious of such proof I think, like many things in the surfboard world, like BIO resins, not all is what it's sold to us as

@@micdlewis incorrect, not only according to me but also our coast guard and our local professional boat operators. The line up of surfers is WAY out of the boating channel. Surfers in the water or not, this guys timing and path of crossing was terrible. There are two surfers in the channel, a channel that would fit 10 to 20 boats wide. That said, it doesnt much matter because he was never in the channel. This really isn't a case of surfers vs boat operators as most surfers are also boat operators and many boat operators are also surfers. This is a case on 1 individual that morning blowing his crossing, many other boats that same morning crossed easily and successfully with no issues at all.

Hmm interesting. Your resins ending up with like a swirly pattern? Are you working with epoxy?

​@@smallkinedings yes, epoxy. First time it happened i though i layered too thin or was bubbles. So i sand it all back and did it again with a thicker layer and no bubbles. It was looking beautiful. 1 hour later only on center was still smooth and all the surround area was like the glass of a bathroom after shower, water mark kind of. Should i keep working the resin with the brush for longer until it gels a bit more? On previous dings ive done that but ended up with brush marks and had to sand it back too.. Any tips?

@@hugosantos6099 I know exactly what you mean. Generally you want to touch the resin with the brush as little as possible to give it time to settle and flatten out before it gels. The swirls or water like marks you are getting are likely caused by poor mixing. Your hardnerer and resin have different consistencys so like oil and water, one will rise to the top when they've settled if not mixed together fully. I would mix for a little longer than you have been (I generally mix epoxy to a slow count to 120). Also keep in mind that most epoxies will have a different mixing ratio depending if you're measuring by volume or weight. This should be explained on your bottled so check into that. For air bubbles, you can leave the resin for 5 minutes or so to sit after mixing to allow some of those bubbles to disperse before pouring and working with it. You should be done brushing your resin well before it begins to gel so this is a sign to me that you're over working it. I have a series of 3 videos on laminating a board (yellow board in the thumbnail) and I believe the third one will give you my pattern for brushing on resin coats

Thanks body .. what a legend.. that can be the case. Ratio was right but i mixed 120 sec very slow to avoid bubble.. so maybe should have gone a bit longer.. will try that next time Cheers mate

I hope it lives a long happy life now and the owners get some enjoyment out of it! Sounds like their grand kids will learn to surf on it! I have a video that answers those two questions. It's titled '' my subscribers as the strangest questions'' 😂

It would certainly work ''in a pinch'' but that said, you could fill the board with newspaper in a pinch as well! Depends on how tight the pinch is 😂 Generally speaking those spray foams from hardware stores are a very low density and contain a lot of air due to how they are expelled from the can. Things to look for would be density. I'm using a 56kg foam so you would want to find something as close to that as possible! My big tip is to ring your local taxidermist and ask them for their foam supplier. They generally use high quality 56kg and 64kg foams and they are buying their kits from manufacturers 🤙

@@smallkinedingsok im definitely fixing a board with newspaper now. Your fault if it doesnt work

It comes direct from a manufacturer this one. It's closed cell I believe but I've been through a few so my minds foggy on this one in particular in that regard. Best bet is to ring your local taxidermist and ask them for their foam supplier. They use high quality, high density foams and will have a supplier 🤙 The micro-balloons are used to fill any pin holes that occur in the expansion process

@@smallkinedings thanks for tip about taxidermist. Thanks for you thorough answering to comments. And I thought you mix microbaloons with the pu , interesting what will happen if mixing them

😂

Theres a famous saying amongst the trades in NZ. ''Painter will fix it with no more gaps''... 😂 Builders, sparkys, plumbers, cabinet makers, they all know it!

This was a fun one to make!

I have a video covering the question around this stuff. It's called ''my subscribers ask the strangest questions''... This particular product though is known as ''guide coat'', it helps me see areas still filled with scratches that need removing before moving onto the next grit 🤙

😂 😂 😂

My pleasure! Typ, can be used with EPS for sure!

Dunno how I feel about that as "the shop" 😂 100% of the time I remove the delaminated glass, replace foam if necessary or at least smooth the area off for laminating and laminate a new patch in 🤙

Chocolate ice cream!!!

I certainly will! Thank YOU!

What’s not to love?! 🤙

Haha, cracks me up every time I see it!

I did! Many thanks, was quite happy with it!

😹 😹

My pleasure, thank YOU for watching!

Gday Reuben! Not knowing exactly what you’re using I would guess that it’s a UV curing type of ding kit? In the case of UV resins, they have a depth limit to them as if you pour them too deep or thick, the UV won’t be able to penetrate all the through your “blob”. Usually plastic wrap with these kinds of resin help mould the resin to the shape of what you’re trying to repair (very handy for rails for instance) but it also thins out your “blob” allowing the UV to penetrate. I’m not aware of any resin where the wrap actually cures the resin aside from the aforementioned benefit and also the fact that it may speed the process up by trapping the resins heat as it cures beneath the wrap. As for waxed styrene, yes, for poly I’m adding wax additive to my laminating resin at a rate of 2% to make it sandable. This expanding PU foam can indeed be used with EPS 🤙

@@smallkinedings nice one thanks for taking the time 🍻

Also forgot to say I stopped being a lazy Cnut and looked back through your old videos and realised you had done a whole vid on the expanding pu so thanks for that too 🤙🏻

Yea, I’ve heard that from a few people and that’s fair enough. Usually a kit will last about a year for me if I don’t get all the way through it. At $40 to $70 for a 5 litre kit, I still think it’s worth the coin, even if you don’t end up using it all. Charge an extra $10ish for its use in a repair and a months worth of repairs for you will get you your money back for the purchase. Any subsequent use after that is money in your pocket which is what we wanna see!

My pleasure! Ruawai is a beautiful part of the island!

Unfortunately no. Well, not that I’ve worked out so far. You can darken it easily but making it any colour lighter than its natural tone I haven’t worked out yet. I’ve made yellows, reds, blacks and blue in my experimentation but the natural brown is always a part of the final colour. Removing the brown is proving difficult, I’m guessing it would require some kind of bleaching action.

Awesome video as always .I've been using waxed resin to do my repairs then blend the edges first before doing a filler coat .Is there any downside to this ? You always seem to go Lam and then filler then sand .If I do it this way I can't avoid horrible sand throughs.Your insight would be appreciated 👍

🤭 Buuuuurn!

It’s a know-it-all that doesn’t know much

@@ab3000x is that an Australian expression?

Uncle Tony likely lives up the road from you, he'll be well known around town and probably a nice enough guy. He'll offer to fix your surfboard for you for a box of piss because he "used to fix boats back in the 70s". What he means by this is that he once helped a mate fix his boat back in the 70s. You'll take him your board and a box of his chosen piss. The issue is, he'll likely drink the box while doing the job... You'll pick up your board a week to 5 months later and it'll look horrid but, he'll convince you it's not about looks, it's about water tight functionality. You'll take the board for a surf a week or so later, uncle Tony's repair will fail immediately, he didn't quite measure the epoxy correctly and turns out its all just jelly beneath the fibreglass. You like uncle Tony, he's a nice guy, a kind soul, maybe a bit lonely in his later years. You don't wanna start a "thing" over this. So, you bring your board to your local, professional, ding repairer. They are more expensive but hey, the board looks the goods, it's water tight and guaranteed. You should've taken it to them first, saved yourself the cost of a box of piss...

😆 cracks me up every time I read it!

These are solid questions and points! From an economy perspective the foam is going to range from $40 to $70 for a 5 litre kit. For context, in this video I mixed 10 ml total to fill that void and if you have a look at how much foam it produced just before I sand the cured result, it’s well worth the money. The foam requires roughly 24hrs to cure, before you can move on with painting or laminating it so it does add that little window of time. Just like epoxy, I’ll pour it last thing before I go home and come back to it the next day. “Surfboards are not forever items”. This is an interesting statement and don’t get me wrong, I somewhat agree and certainly know what you mean. On the flip side though, I think they should be, or that’s to say, maybe not “forever” but I think boards being made of the gnarly chemicals and materials we currently make them from, should be lasting a hell of a lot longer than most do. I’ve repaired boards older than me and gotten them back to a condition where they might even outlive me now. Especially if I stick to this line of work 😆 If these mass board producers thought more about longevity and customers treated their boards with more care (properly fixing dings in a timely manner, storing them safely, not throwing them in the back of the ute or van but placing them, not leaving them in hot cars or direct sunlight for countless hours) I think they would last a LOT longer. My evidence of this would be to look at the boards being surfed by locals in the third world like the Phillipines. Tell those guys that boards aren’t forever items. I believe the only answer to this though is a massive increase in board prices. Customers are more inclined to care for and “service” assets that are expensive to replace. Board producers are so busy trying to compete with one another on price that they are now skipping trying to produce a long term item (ESPECIALLY in the case of epoxy EPS construction). I think this is a real shame and I think it is ultimately holding surfboard manufacturing and technology back. It’s also added pressure to “local shapers” to try and compete with the prices of large manufacturers which is not sustainable and will likely lead to the death or sever decline of that now niche sector of our industry. Like a bestoke furniture maker trying to compete with IKEA prices, it’s just not possible. I want to see “fire wires” prices increase drastically and I want to see the bestoke local shapers prices increase even more than that. I think then, and only then will we see boards suddenly lasting much longer than they currently do. The last thing I’d say is that “if it’s worth doing, it’s worth doing properly”. My $2000 car isn’t a “forever car” but, if it needs work done, I don’t want my mechanic taking shortcuts on the work with the attitude of “well, it’s gonna be a write off one day so I’ll do a half assed, corner cutting job”. I want my mechanic to have more pride in their ability than that the way I go home happy each day because of the pride I take in my work. That’s my long winded answer to that 😆 thanks for the question!

That’s the one. Although, it should be said that just like a surfboard blank, the further you cut into it, the softer that foam will become so if it is 56kg of density in my hand after pouring, by the time I sand it down, it might be closer to 48 - 50kg when I’m done with it. I do also stock a 64kg foam but this is reserved for MAJOR repairs and is rarely used. That stuff is VERY hard!

Mahalos!

Many thanks and appreciate the feedback!

You’re a champ with the attention span of a scholar! Appreciate you!